as somebody who's fairly new to working on my car, this was a really well done, concise and thorough video and explained everything perfectly, thank you so much, this is awesome
Wow man can't thank you enough, just did this on my 06. Great explanation of everything that gave me the confidence to do it myself and i'm glad I did.
LOL Pro tip, make sure you smack the exposed part of your clutch fork real good after getting the transmission remounted to make sure that your release bearing is fully seated LOL. I ended up having to take out my intercooler again and disconnecting the slave cylinder so that I could smack it and get it seated into the spring plate. Your video helped me a lot. I have always opted to work on my own vehicles but this is my first Subaru so it's just very helpful to know where everything is and the proper steps to take. I will save that living up north where the roads get covered in salt that I have never seen so many bolts seized up by rust in my entire time working on vehicles. I ended up ordering a butt ton of new Nuts and Bolts as my end goal is to get this car basically restored to factory new condition. There were a few differences on my particular Subaru because it has a lot of aftermarket parts but it still gave me the general idea of what I need to do. One more thing I noticed after doing this is that the release bearing sent out with ACT kits is not the same quality as an oem release bearing. If you are installing an ACT performance clutch I would recommend ordering an oem release bearing and just keep the ACT bearing as an emergency spare.
Yes exactly, I thought I showed snacking the fork in the video, this particular car clicked in without much issue. And yes any aftermarket bearings I stay away from unless I have no other choice. Brands don't matter much, nothing compares to oem quality. I'm definitely glad we don't deal with salt, i would not be a mechanic as a profession of I lived in the Salt belt lol.
I had a hard time getting the tranny back in. Working alone I had to get some longer 14 millimeter bolts and cut the heads off them. I inserted them into the top threads to use as an upper guide. Worked like a charm. With all four studs to align the tranny it slide fright in.
Great video mate, struggled a bit getting it off the dowels, needed a LOT of prying to even get a little space between engine and tranny. When it eventually popped, the dowels looked a little rusty. It also helped using a lot of penetrant and heat from a heat gun on the studs and dowels. Just something to be mindful of because I thought I missed a bolt!!
Hey man, I just wanted to thank you for making this video. There’s so much junk out there these days. I now fully believe I can handle this project myself and I am happy to be your 1000th like Keep up the good work!
I don't know if it's been stated before but I saw your positive terminal disconnected. I do not recommend this unless you like to weld your wrench to the fender. In this case the positive terminal is far enough from the body work but that is not always the case there are plenty of brackets etc. that are grounded to the block. Always disconnect the negative first, then tuck it away and down so that it doesn't have a chance to touch the terminal. P.S. Thank you for the video!
Yo this is wild, hear me out. I'm on my third transmission drop in January in the last 3 years, I've watched this video 20+ times. The puppy at 1:10 looks EXACTLY like one of my dogs. How weird is it, I'm doing the same job, on the same car, and have the same dog. What universe are we in? I literally just noticed this and I'm blown away.
@HackSquadGarage Kick ass dude! Mines a husky shepherd mix, but same markings as Cusco there! His name is Phillip J Fry. Also have a pure bred German named Leela haha
@Ludakris you don't have to turn it much, you need to make the the top and the bottom of the bell housing is even, if the top or the bottom is closer together it will bind. You have to manipulate the engine with a jack as well as the transmission up and down to get the angle right. Don't try to use bolts to pull it closed until it's maybe a fingers width left. Don't stress about it just take you time.
@Ludakris yeah so you have 2 options, you can use the e brake to lock the driveshaft in place so you can loosen the bolts that attach it to the rear differential, but then you have to go take the brake off to rotate it to get to the next 2 bolts (4 total) or the way I do it is I take the brake off and shove a screw driver through the u joint part of the driveshaft so when you go to loosen the bolts, the screw driver hits the bottom of the car and stops it from moving so you can get the bolts loose. It's just 2 different ways to hild the drive shaft still so you can take them off. You will have to do the same thing when you go to install the driveshaft and tighten them.
@Ludakris yes haha here is the states people call it several different things. E brake as in emergency brake. Or hand brake. Or parking brake. It's all the same lol
Yeah that's about right as far as labor rates go, that's the typical price, but at least you get a warranty. That's why I made this video, I've seen lots of people sell their wrx because they had a clutch go out when it can be done at home for a fraction of the cost.
I wanted to get it done quick and had the money. If they had quoted me 1800 I would have done it in my driveway. Tiny garage. I have since picked up the scizzer tranny jack and also a 1 ton engine hoist from harbor freight. You and racer dan have the best wrx clutch replacement video .
hopefully his comment will help someone, I was reading on a forum how to separate because this one would not come apart I was using a sharp chisel still couldn't get in there. A guy said he used a meat cleaver and hammer to separate the trans from the engine. I was able to get my old pocket knife and a hammer to get enough room to get a big prybar in there.
I don't know if you still look at comments on here but I am missing a spring on the top that that one has and I also need new roll pins I haven't figured out where to find those yet but thanks for the video really helpful
Yeah I still watch comments lol. I believe what you are referring to is the clutch fork return spring, you can try to find them online, or dealerships should still stock them. Roll pins should be available at any auto parts store as well. They usually come with replacement axles.
When popping the ball joints out I'd recommend doing it by removing the bottom screw rather than the pinch bolt. Just sheared mine and its a pain to fix.
Dang, I probably would want to adventure and do this myself, doesn't look too complicated.. just feel like working under the car with that little space would suck!
Yeah you should do it. It's not a terrible job to do. I usually ware a thick jacket or use like yoga mats at padding to lay on. But yeah that part sucks lol
@@HackSquadGarage there's a 'clean' looking 03 Subie WRX wagon for sale near me for $3k and the owner says it probably needs a new clutch...feel like bargaining the parts/labor and just do it myself...
@@LaPulgaM yeah you should snag that. depending on mileage its probably worth 2k. thats a great way to get a nice car for cheap is get one needing a clutch, pretty easy job and it should be good for a long time with a new clutch.
I had to pull the clutch disc upward while screwing the pressure plate cause the tool wasnt centering it enough. Be careful i had to drop the trans at 1/2in from success.
I needed to replace the ball joints and was wondering if I should put the axle and pins in first, then pop the new ball joints in. Or put the new ball joints in then put the axle back on?
Sounds like you already got it back together, but usually I will knock the ball joint out the rest of the way at that point since it's already out of the knuckle, then install the axle again. Much easier that way and it's a great idea to get new ones while you are in there.
Hi, I made sure I cleaned my flywheel very well and the pressure plate very well without touching any of the friction surfaces at all and it’s chattering for some reason. Do you have any ideas, I’ve only gone 10 miles on it but I feel like it shouldn’t be chattering.
So there are a few things that can cause chattering. The big one is it it's an aftermarket clutch that has a ceramic Puck style disk with or without springs, without springs is worse with this. These clutches are very aggressive and just typically do that no matter what, especially if it's a cheaper brand. Newer expensive brands have gotten better with this. If it's just an oem replacement clutch what may have happened is when you installed the pressure plate you didn't tighten the pressure plate bolts down evenly enough. If. You tighten one side more than the other the pressure plate will actually sit a little crooked. It's essentially a big spring with a disk attached. So when you release it it's more open on one side than the other. If that's the case you would have to take the transmission back down and reinstall the pressure plate portion of the clutch. Also check your dowl pins in the bell housing and make sure you have one on each side and the transmission is fully seated flush.
@@HackSquadGarage thankyou, I’m almost 100% confident with my install of the pressure plate I took my time like you said and made sure I only turned the bolts half a turn each time going in a star pattern. I went with an exedy clutch and oem flywheel replacement. I’m thinking of driving it and seeing if it goes away overtime or not. It doesn’t chatter if I give it a little more RPMs when starting off. Idk what else to check.
Love the video so far but have to make a quick comment. When disconnecting the power you take the negative off, not the positive. DC power runs negative to positive so when you just take the positive off you still have power running through the system. I wouldn't want anyone to get shocked unnecessarily.
Usually I will take the battery out entirely just for more room, but you won't get shocked from only disconnecting the negative unless you touch the negative side of the battery to complete the circuit. Most people only disconnect the negative side, most of the time I will disconnect at least the positive side, but it does not really matter, if the circuit is open no power will go through.
Hey bro. Amazing vid. But im currently struggling to get the transmission separated from the engine. Everything has been removed and there is nothing holding the transmission to the car. But the the transmission wont budge. Theres not even a small gap i can create to fit a screwdriver to pry with. Any ideas or tips would be greatly appreciated
If there's not even a tiny gap, then it's one of two things. Either you missed some bell housing bolts or the studs st the bottom. Or your dowl pins are very corroded and it's stuck together. You would have to try to move the transmission up and down to break them free. Wiggle the transmission to get it to separate.
Maybe I'm a little late, but it was probably the release bearing holding on. Gotta take off the starter and pull out the dowel that holds the clutch fork on. Then it should come free after you pry the engine from the bell housing using screw drivers or a pry bar.
Yes pretty much exactly the same, the intercooler may be a little different to take off but that clutch should be pull style as well, so it's essentially the exact same.
do u have to engage the throw out bearing into the pressure plate by hand after the job??? seems like i missed this step and my car ain’t shifting correctly?! thanks 🙏
I always do, it's pull style so if it's not clipped in the clutch shouldn't work at all. You should be able to just take the intercooler off and pop it in by hand.
@@HackSquadGarage okay 👌 sweet hoping this fixes my problem as i didn’t do it and i’m hoping i don’t have to drop the transmission again haha thanks again , the video helped a lot!
Lock-tite on the flywheel bolts - in a lot of cars the tapped holes in the crank go into the oil galley of the crank. The lock-tite is used as a gasket material to keep oil from seeping thru. Don’t know if subies need this or not.
This is true, it's very important on LS's for example. Subaru crank shafts are a little different and don't have oil in these galleys, but it's still a good idea to make sure they don't rattle out. I've been back and forth on locktite for subarus for a while.
Really awesome tutorial HSG!!!! Thank you!!! Going to be swapping mine next week in my 08 STi. Any major differences between the 04 and 08? Again, thank you! This video took away a lot of my fears! Bryan
No problem! The job should be pretty much the same process but you have a bigger 6 speed transmission instead of the 5 speed. So some of the components may look different but it's the same job, you can do it at home. Good luck!
If it's the style that does not have roll pins in the axles just pop out, it should have roll pins in the front axles. You just use a punch that's the same size as the pin and hammer it through.
So do you actually have to rove the clutch fork pin to get the trans out? And what the new one just pops in on install because it came out on the clutch but went in on the trans
Yes you have to remove the pin to get it out. Sometimes you can get it out without taking it off but it's way more difficult and can damage things. That's normal it stayed on the pressure plate, you can pop it off with a flat head if you were reusing parts for some reason. But it always recommended to replace the throw out bearing with an oem one when the transmission is out. You just install it on the fork and after you install everything it will click in the first time you push the pedal down. You can also pop it in with your hand on the fork.
On these pull style clutches the throw out bearing clips into the clutch pressure plate, so if you don't take that out the transmission won't separate. Taking it out disconnects the fork from the bearing so the bearing can stay on the clutch and the transmission can slide out.
great vid. What do you mean he was holding the clutch for too long on hills? Like trans braking down hill too much? What do you mean that he was holding the clutch too much? Was the old one OEM? I'm guessing not because it has that light-weight fly wheel. If torqued properly, whey should it need loctite? People and their damn loctite. I've never used it for anything.
Thanks! What I meant was he was slipping the clutch too much driving in the hills every day and burned the clutch out of it in a few thousand miles, it was a cheap ebay stage 2 clutch that was really grabby/chattery and harder to drive for him, so he cooked it fast. Loctite is a good idea, it depends on the engine, like a lot of Hondas will work flywheel bolts out often without it, but it's good practice to use some blue Loctite just to prevent damage. Most of the subarus I've done I didn't use it without issues but if I'm going to show someone how to do a clutch I'm going to recommend it so hopefully they don't have issues.
Hi! Great video, thanks! I just bought my first Subaru, a 2001 Bugeye WRX sedan, and it has a bad clutch. I've never changed a pull type clutch before (or done any work on a Subaru really) so I have three questions: 1. Will there be any differences for me with a 2001 car compared to this 2004? I heard something about the axles being different maybe? 2. To get the new release bearing to snap into place, do I have to push the clutch fork, or will it snap into place by itself when putting the transmission back on the engine? 3. You never showed the pins locking the axles to the transmission, so I didn't really understand how they lock into place, but I guess I'll find out sooner or later.. :)
Congratulations man! But it sounds like you got a 2002 wrx the first year of the bugeye 👍the job will be exactly the same from 02-05, in 06 they switched to a push style clutch. Once you have the transmission fully mated back up to the engine you should reach over and push the fork back to clip the bearing in, just makes sure its all lined back up before you try the pedal. The 04 doesn't have axle pins like the 02 has, it uses a male style axle with a snap ring that locks into the front diff vs yours is a female axle that uses the roll pin to hold the axle on the stub. It only lines up one way, you will notice when you knock the pin out and get the axle off there is a large side of the hole on the axle and the stub on the transmission, if it's off 180 degrees the pin won't go back in. Otherwise you should be fine. Good luck! 👍
@@HackSquadGarage Thanks! Outside of North America (I'm in Sweden, but this applies to all pretty much all other markets, like Japan/Asia as well AFAIK), we got the Bugeye for MY2001-2002, not MY2002-2003 like you guys did. :) Mine is manufactured in December 2000 as MY01. But anyhow; Thanks, now I have a better image of the process in my head. I'm used to cars with a male style axle stub with a snap ring, so this will be a first for me with this female style.
We have a video on removing the engine but it's a lot more work to do so, a lot more things need to come apart and it will take longer, radiator/coolant wiring etc. But it depends if there are multiple things you are servicing at the same time, or if you only have access to an engine hoist and not a transmission jack.
@Ludakris no problem! So those style axles have a c clip on the tip that has to pop in the groove inside the front differential, they won't go in all the way on their own, the best way to pop them in is to do that part first, take the axle and carefully insert it into the transmission without damaging the axle seal, use the axle/hub sort of like a slide hammer, the joints will move in and out and you can use that like a hammering motion to get the clip to pop in, you may want to detach your tie rod from the hub for more movement. Once it's in you can re install the ball joint. I've even used a big rubber mallet on the axle nut side to do the same thing. That's all there is to it. Good luck!
It depends on the piping and if it's in the way or not when you are accessing the transmission bolts. I have done it with front mount kits that the piping was not in the way but in most situations you'll have to remove the pipes. It's easier sometimes to just remove what's on the way than struggle to work around it.
The one we put in was an Exedy clutch kit which is the oem clutch subaru uses. You can get them online or if you get them from a dealer it will be in an exedy box. The one we took out was an XTD which is a cheap copy of exedy. Also decent but not as good as the real deal.
Before i end up taking everything apart again do u happen to no of any other reason why the throw out bearing wont snap into place? Is it possible to put in upside down or anything at all? Or do u no of anything i might be able to do (since using just my hand isn't working) to make it snap into place?
No there is not up or down with this style of throw out bearing, I would be concerned you got the wrong style since there is push and pull style clutches, the push style don't clip in and it doesn't have the lock ring on the pressure plate. If you have a camera you could snake down there you may be able to see inside, or if you take out the starter? Other than that you'll have to pull the transmission back a bit and take a look. Might be able to do that without fully taking it out.
I feel like I have murpheys law when it comes to this stuff man. I just finished everything but everything back together. But car won’t turn over. I put the negative terminal on and it sparks. sometimes even turns the starter on right when I connect the terminal, with key out. Do you know what the heck is causing this?
Something is arching power to the starter solenoid, I would probably take the starter back off, inspect the wiring going to the stater, make sure the ground strap is still on and looks good as well as the positive. The little 1 wire pin that goes to the starter is the solenoid power wire, if that wire gets 12v, the starter is grounded and the positive from the battery to the starter is connected the starter will fire. Just dig around and investigate, something is probably touching something it shouldn't.
At 6:09 was it really that easy to pull out, or do you have to nudge it quite a bit. I’m at this part on my replacement but the thing won’t slide out for some reason.
If it's been in there a while and the grease is all gone it can be stuck in there pretty good. You can thread a bolt into it and try to use some leverage to slide it out. When you put it back in make sure to clean the inside of the fork and grease it up.
Hack Squad Garage hey man another quick question. So I’m at the part now where the transmission is ready to come off. However for some reason, it won’t slide off at all. I angled the engine and everything, but it still won’t come slide off of the dowels or allow me to pry it open at the top. There is no bolts holding it on its basically just the dowels left on it. Any tips or tricks you can tell me to get this darn thing off ?
@@seakayproductions I would just check again to make sure there are no bolts, if there arnt any like you said sometimes the throw out bearing can bind up a bit since it stays with the clutch on removal. The fork has to slide forward to allow it to come off. You can try to pick up on the fork and wiggle it around to get it off the bearing. Other than that make sure the top and bottom of the bell housing is separating equally, if the top is open more than the bottom it will bind on the lower studs. You can move the engine up and down with a jack and some wood to let it slide straight off.
I cannot get the transmission to lineup. No matter what I do. I used the alignment tool correctly when installing the clutch. I can get the two lower bolts into the transmission but it just won’t go flush with the engine FML.
You have to get them to go on evenly, if the top or the bottom is more closed it will bind, you can use a jack with some wood on the oil pan to angle the engine back so you have enough room to let them go on smoothly. That's assuming the clutch is aligned perfectly, they sometimes droop with the alignment tool, I try to pull up on the tool as I'm putting the pressure plate on to counter gravity. The end of the input shaft has to go into the pilot bearing.
This can happen when you don't tighten the pressure plate bolts down evenly, the pressure plate won't put pressure down on the disk evenly and it will chatter. This can also happen if you have one of those upgraded ceramic Puck style clutches.
@@gazfreedom9261 they could have resurfaced the flywheel incorrectly or installed it incorrectly. I'm sure they will get you fixed up for free. If it's a good shop they will.
What fluids are involved in this process? I know I need tranny fluid (internet says 80w90 NS), but will I need any other fluids? I intend to replace anything that drains significantly since I just got the car.
@@DJ_Level_3 so usually the rear differential fluid is serviced at the same time as the transmission, so you can change it if you want, it's just 1 more qt of the same fluid. But if yours is fine you don't have to change it.
@@DJ_Level_3 but not you shouldn't have to drain any of the other fluids. Bleeding and changing the clutch fluid is sometimes recommended but also not required
That depends on how much you are willing to spend and if it comes with a flywheel, a nice oem exedy clutch can be over $500. Or you can get a cheap crappy one off ebay for like $100. For driving feel and reliability you get what you pay for with clutches.
do you have to put a new flywheel on when doing this? i am about to have to replace my clutch and I'm putting a ACT heavy duty clutch in and was wondering if id have to change the flywheel too
You can sometimes get them resurfaced if it's a single mass flywheel. Dual mass flywheels cannot be resurfaced. But I would recommend getting a new flywheel, maybe get act's lightweight flywheel if they offer it.
Usually I just push the fork back and snap it in by hand, it's usually pretty easy unless you got the wrong clutch kit or the wrong bearing somehow. Never had an issue with that. The snap ring on the pressure plate not lining up?
I'm sure it's the right clutch kit. And I'm sure the throw out bearing snaps into the pressure plate cuz i accidentally snapped it on wen i opened the box. Then had to remove it from the pressure plate to put the fork on it before putting the trans back on. But it's definitely not on now that everything is put together
@@RyanSmith-sk8ve only thing I can think of is its not at the right angle, like it's drooping down and hitting the bottom of the clip. You may have already tried but you could try to pull up on the fork to hopefully get it in the hole of the clip. Hopefully it's not bent or something from the last time it was clipped in and then removed.
So you are saying when you push the clutch in it stalls? Or when you put it in gear and try to drive it stalls right away? Did you install a stock replacement clutch? Also does it run normally in neutral?
So lots of people just remove it without issue, is there to protect the turbo from any debris that might be in the oil, but lots of turbo subarus never had something like that. I would say just remove it and get a replacement that doesn't have it, but does had the correct restrictor for that turbo.
No bullshit. If i try this how hard is it to fuck something up? Ive taken apart and rebuilt an engine highschool, and Thats about it other than preventative maintenance.
If you have a transmission jack from harbor freight and a weekend you can do this job. It's really not that hard. You will have the transmission out in probably 3-4 hours if you've never done it before. And you are not going to mess anything up if you put the clutch on correctly. That's pretty much the only thing that can be messed up. Also good time to change the rear main seal if it needs it.
How do you pop the ball joint out? I been stuck at this for an hour I couldn’t really pop it out and I was using excessive force with the pry bar to try and get it out but it won’t budge
It may be rusted in there, this is why you put antiseize on it on instalation. You probably need to put a pry bar on it, have someone put pressure on it and use a hammer to knock it loose with pressure on it, maybe even stand on the pry bar.
At 5:11, what is that cable that is right on top of the starter for? I don’t think I have that or I don’t think I plugged it back in, and after putting everything together my car decides to throw a check engine light and a p0335 code popped up for a crankshaft position sensor and my car won’t start at all and I’m trying to find out what is the culprit.
@@yungcano9368 that big black cable is the main ground for the engine and starter, it goes directly to the battery. You car definitely has that somewhere. Check your crank shaft sensor just under the alternator and the wiring connections on top of the bell housing. Something is likely just unpluged.
The clutch disk is probably not aligned straight. Sometimes it can droop as you put the pressure plate on. Take the pressure plate back off realign it and pull up a bit of on so its straight as you tighten it down. If that doesn't work try turning the motor over with a 22mm slightly to see if the splines align.
Hey man, thanks for this video, I really wouldn’t have been able to do this myself without it. I do have a question tho, I did all of this and installed an exedy blue box and had my original flywheel skimmed. Since finishing the job and driving it for the past few days I’ve noticed one hell of a loud grinding/chattering noise coming from the transmission area ONLY when I am decelerating and the car is in gear, so feet of both the clutch and accelerator pedal. It doesn’t occur when I am accelerating nor at lower speeds. Little concerned since everything else feels great, I’m changing gears completely fine and everything works as it should. Is there anything you could advise? Thanks.
If it didn't do that before I would first go in and make sure everything is tight, especially the subframe and driveshaft, make sure the carrier bolts are torqued to 45ft lbs. And the drive shaft to the rear differential is tight. Also check your transmission fluid level, make sure it's not low. First things first is to check if everything you touched is still tight.
That depends on your mechanical ability and access to tools, at work with a lift and all my tools I could get this done in about 4-5 hours. At home on the ground it would probably take the majority of the day, 6-8 hours maybe. I would typically set aside a weekend.
Yes he did, he didn't know how to drive correctly apparently. Luckily we bought this car off him but not before he burnt up the one we installed in this video. Now we get to do it again!
@@HackSquadGarage I guess you are right. It will probably take me a weekend while going at a slower pace. Do you happen to know if there are any major differences for an sti?
@@barsaf9989 yeah you can get it done in a weekend especially with a friend, essentially its the exact same process but with a much bigger 6 speed transmission. The parts may be slightly different but it's the same job as the wrx.
Are you sure it's not easier to just pull the engine??.. I can pull the engine out of my legacy in about an hour and a half.. I went to this video for my neighbor that has a turbo wrx
It's really up to you on what's easier, if you have other things to replace it can make more sense to pull the engine, also if you don't have a transmission jack you probably want to pull the engine. I think it's usually faster to pull the transmission.
Well you need to tilt the engine back so you can slide the transmission on and off. You would have to do the same thing on a lift with a pole jack. Just Jack it up on the header with a block of wood to protect it. Its just how its done. Don't jack it from the oil pan lol
Once you take the bolt out you just need to apply pressure. Sometimes they get rusted in if they haven't changed in a long time. You can use some pb blaster. Or a sledge hammer to hammer down on the control arm to knock it loose. Or the way I like to do it is a 3 foot pry bar from harbor freight, wedge it under the frame and stand on it. When you put it back in put some anti seize on it so it doesn't happen again. If the ball joint is loose and floppy or the boots torn you should get a new one.
When you said to pop the ball joint out instead of removing the strut bolts, I knew this tutorial was gonna be legit. Thanks, man!
In the rust belt, it’s a lot easier to take the strut bolts off
I agree. I've seen countless vids of people disconnecting the struts and messing with alignment and what not.
as somebody who's fairly new to working on my car, this was a really well done, concise and thorough video and explained everything perfectly, thank you so much, this is awesome
Wow man can't thank you enough, just did this on my 06. Great explanation of everything that gave me the confidence to do it myself and i'm glad I did.
My wrx just started slipping and this is going to make it a whole lot easier to change thanks man
No problem! Hopefully it makes a clutch job not a huge deal
Doing mine tomorrow in the garage rough floor unfortunately but ur video is going to be very helpful... Thanks good job
Thanks bro used this video only to change my clutch on my legacy b4 took you 5hrs and it took me a week🤣🤣 love the tutorial bro!
I'm in the process now I feel you theres no video for turbo b4s out there
i’m on day four lol, but i feel next time i will be quicker and we’ll equipped..
LOL Pro tip, make sure you smack the exposed part of your clutch fork real good after getting the transmission remounted to make sure that your release bearing is fully seated LOL. I ended up having to take out my intercooler again and disconnecting the slave cylinder so that I could smack it and get it seated into the spring plate. Your video helped me a lot. I have always opted to work on my own vehicles but this is my first Subaru so it's just very helpful to know where everything is and the proper steps to take. I will save that living up north where the roads get covered in salt that I have never seen so many bolts seized up by rust in my entire time working on vehicles. I ended up ordering a butt ton of new Nuts and Bolts as my end goal is to get this car basically restored to factory new condition. There were a few differences on my particular Subaru because it has a lot of aftermarket parts but it still gave me the general idea of what I need to do. One more thing I noticed after doing this is that the release bearing sent out with ACT kits is not the same quality as an oem release bearing. If you are installing an ACT performance clutch I would recommend ordering an oem release bearing and just keep the ACT bearing as an emergency spare.
Yes exactly, I thought I showed snacking the fork in the video, this particular car clicked in without much issue. And yes any aftermarket bearings I stay away from unless I have no other choice. Brands don't matter much, nothing compares to oem quality. I'm definitely glad we don't deal with salt, i would not be a mechanic as a profession of I lived in the Salt belt lol.
I had a hard time getting the tranny back in. Working alone I had to get some longer 14 millimeter bolts and cut the heads off them. I inserted them into the top threads to use as an upper guide. Worked like a charm. With all four studs to align the tranny it slide fright in.
Yeah that's probably the hardest part, once you do it a few times you learn the tricks
Great video mate, struggled a bit getting it off the dowels, needed a LOT of prying to even get a little space between engine and tranny. When it eventually popped, the dowels looked a little rusty. It also helped using a lot of penetrant and heat from a heat gun on the studs and dowels. Just something to be mindful of because I thought I missed a bolt!!
ALL about the angle brother!!! Relieves tension on the dowels!!!
Hey man, I just wanted to thank you for making this video. There’s so much junk out there these days.
I now fully believe I can handle this project myself and I am happy to be your 1000th like
Keep up the good work!
Thank you! I'm glad it was able to help! You got this 🤘
I needed this! My blob eye needs one soon.
I don't know if it's been stated before but I saw your positive terminal disconnected.
I do not recommend this unless you like to weld your wrench to the fender. In this case the positive terminal is far enough from the body work but that is not always the case there are plenty of brackets etc. that are grounded to the block. Always disconnect the negative first, then tuck it away and down so that it doesn't have a chance to touch the terminal.
P.S. Thank you for the video!
Yeah that's definitely true, I don't do that anymore, no idea why I did it that way this time 😅
Yo this is wild, hear me out. I'm on my third transmission drop in January in the last 3 years, I've watched this video 20+ times. The puppy at 1:10 looks EXACTLY like one of my dogs. How weird is it, I'm doing the same job, on the same car, and have the same dog. What universe are we in? I literally just noticed this and I'm blown away.
What! That's so cool. My dog's name is Cusco and he's a pure siberian husky, he actually just turned 4 and he was a puppy in this video.
@HackSquadGarage Kick ass dude! Mines a husky shepherd mix, but same markings as Cusco there! His name is Phillip J Fry. Also have a pure bred German named Leela haha
Waiting on my OEM Exedy to come in next week. This video will be my guide.
Great choice! You should be able to handle this no problem
Love it 😍 gave me the courage to do my own car!!
Videos been a big help while I've been replacing my clutch in my 2002 subaru wrx great video man
Thank god you made this video well done! The foot pound info as you go too like my god! Thanks bro
Thank you! Glad we were able to help out 😊
@Ludakris you don't have to turn it much, you need to make the the top and the bottom of the bell housing is even, if the top or the bottom is closer together it will bind. You have to manipulate the engine with a jack as well as the transmission up and down to get the angle right. Don't try to use bolts to pull it closed until it's maybe a fingers width left. Don't stress about it just take you time.
Excellent video, thanks for taking the time to share. Cheers
Glad to help!
Super video .... great job Hack Squad Garage!
Good man it took two days at my workshop but you be fair it was our first time with this model vehicle.
One day out one day back in and delivered to the customer.
That's great! Once you do it a few times it's really not a bad job at all!
well done brother!! there are still cars like this running around and need some DIY guidance my man thank you.
Thank you! If even 1 person gets some help from our channel I'm happy.
@Ludakris yeah so you have 2 options, you can use the e brake to lock the driveshaft in place so you can loosen the bolts that attach it to the rear differential, but then you have to go take the brake off to rotate it to get to the next 2 bolts (4 total) or the way I do it is I take the brake off and shove a screw driver through the u joint part of the driveshaft so when you go to loosen the bolts, the screw driver hits the bottom of the car and stops it from moving so you can get the bolts loose. It's just 2 different ways to hild the drive shaft still so you can take them off. You will have to do the same thing when you go to install the driveshaft and tighten them.
@Ludakris yes haha here is the states people call it several different things. E brake as in emergency brake. Or hand brake. Or parking brake. It's all the same lol
This video deserves more views and Likes
Thank you! Share it with anyone you want that it could possibly help out!
Very good video... thx. You showed all the highlights and gave some excellent pointers.
You’re the real man 🤝🏻🫡 I didn’t expect to see someone replacing the transmission almost the same way that I like to do
It's way easier! Saves a lot of time 🤟
5 hours muy bueno. I spent 1800 replacing clutch on 2006 sti . Quoted me 1400 estimate before job. I could have done this in hindsight. Live and learn
Yeah that's about right as far as labor rates go, that's the typical price, but at least you get a warranty. That's why I made this video, I've seen lots of people sell their wrx because they had a clutch go out when it can be done at home for a fraction of the cost.
I wanted to get it done quick and had the money. If they had quoted me 1800 I would have done it in my driveway. Tiny garage. I have since picked up the scizzer tranny jack and also a 1 ton engine hoist from harbor freight. You and racer dan have the best wrx clutch replacement video .
hopefully his comment will help someone, I was reading on a forum how to separate because this one would not come apart I was using a sharp chisel still couldn't get in there. A guy said he used a meat cleaver and hammer to separate the trans from the engine. I was able to get my old pocket knife and a hammer
to get enough room to get a big prybar in there.
I really don't recommend doing that, marring up the aluminum bell housing can be bad in the long run.
I don't know if you still look at comments on here but I am missing a spring on the top that that one has and I also need new roll pins I haven't figured out where to find those yet but thanks for the video really helpful
Yeah I still watch comments lol. I believe what you are referring to is the clutch fork return spring, you can try to find them online, or dealerships should still stock them. Roll pins should be available at any auto parts store as well. They usually come with replacement axles.
@@HackSquadGarage ok one more thing how did you get the bolt under the exhaust pipe out
My subaru is rightnhand drive so getting the downpipe bolts off with the clutch master and brake master in the way is an absolute mission
Thanks man for this video , have learnt a alot
Thank you ❤
Thanks for the video. 🫡
It helped me remove my trans, when I was stuck & forgot about the clutch 10mm access whole and pin.
No problem! Glad it helped, maybe consider subscribing if you like our subaru content!
When popping the ball joints out I'd recommend doing it by removing the bottom screw rather than the pinch bolt. Just sheared mine and its a pain to fix.
Yeah you can do it either way, you run the risk of damaging the ball joint that way. I prefer to take the pinch bolt out and put anti seize in there.
Dang, I probably would want to adventure and do this myself, doesn't look too complicated.. just feel like working under the car with that little space would suck!
Yeah you should do it. It's not a terrible job to do. I usually ware a thick jacket or use like yoga mats at padding to lay on. But yeah that part sucks lol
@@HackSquadGarage there's a 'clean' looking 03 Subie WRX wagon for sale near me for $3k and the owner says it probably needs a new clutch...feel like bargaining the parts/labor and just do it myself...
@@LaPulgaM yeah you should snag that. depending on mileage its probably worth 2k. thats a great way to get a nice car for cheap is get one needing a clutch, pretty easy job and it should be good for a long time with a new clutch.
its the kings like you that make the world go round. this will come in handy very soon!
About to do my first clutch replacement. 2014 wrx. We will see how it goes
It should be pretty similar, it's a newer design but the overall job is basically the same. You'll do fine 👍
I had to pull the clutch disc upward while screwing the pressure plate cause the tool wasnt centering it enough. Be careful i had to drop the trans at 1/2in from success.
Got a new subscriber💯 you lit my G!!
I needed this! Super easy explanation. Thank you very much!
I needed to replace the ball joints and was wondering if I should put the axle and pins in first, then pop the new ball joints in. Or put the new ball joints in then put the axle back on?
Sounds like you already got it back together, but usually I will knock the ball joint out the rest of the way at that point since it's already out of the knuckle, then install the axle again. Much easier that way and it's a great idea to get new ones while you are in there.
Hack Squad Garage thank you, for some reason now I have an ABS light after i got it started.... what the heck
@@seakayproductions check the sensors on the front wheels, make you you didn't leave one unpluged by accident.
Awesome work and lesson. Thanks so much!
Hi, I made sure I cleaned my flywheel very well and the pressure plate very well without touching any of the friction surfaces at all and it’s chattering for some reason. Do you have any ideas, I’ve only gone 10 miles on it but I feel like it shouldn’t be chattering.
So there are a few things that can cause chattering.
The big one is it it's an aftermarket clutch that has a ceramic Puck style disk with or without springs, without springs is worse with this.
These clutches are very aggressive and just typically do that no matter what, especially if it's a cheaper brand. Newer expensive brands have gotten better with this.
If it's just an oem replacement clutch what may have happened is when you installed the pressure plate you didn't tighten the pressure plate bolts down evenly enough. If. You tighten one side more than the other the pressure plate will actually sit a little crooked. It's essentially a big spring with a disk attached. So when you release it it's more open on one side than the other. If that's the case you would have to take the transmission back down and reinstall the pressure plate portion of the clutch.
Also check your dowl pins in the bell housing and make sure you have one on each side and the transmission is fully seated flush.
@@HackSquadGarage thankyou, I’m almost 100% confident with my install of the pressure plate I took my time like you said and made sure I only turned the bolts half a turn each time going in a star pattern. I went with an exedy clutch and oem flywheel replacement. I’m thinking of driving it and seeing if it goes away overtime or not. It doesn’t chatter if I give it a little more RPMs when starting off. Idk what else to check.
Love the video so far but have to make a quick comment. When disconnecting the power you take the negative off, not the positive. DC power runs negative to positive so when you just take the positive off you still have power running through the system. I wouldn't want anyone to get shocked unnecessarily.
Usually I will take the battery out entirely just for more room, but you won't get shocked from only disconnecting the negative unless you touch the negative side of the battery to complete the circuit. Most people only disconnect the negative side, most of the time I will disconnect at least the positive side, but it does not really matter, if the circuit is open no power will go through.
Hey bro. Amazing vid. But im currently struggling to get the transmission separated from the engine. Everything has been removed and there is nothing holding the transmission to the car. But the the transmission wont budge. Theres not even a small gap i can create to fit a screwdriver to pry with. Any ideas or tips would be greatly appreciated
If there's not even a tiny gap, then it's one of two things. Either you missed some bell housing bolts or the studs st the bottom. Or your dowl pins are very corroded and it's stuck together. You would have to try to move the transmission up and down to break them free. Wiggle the transmission to get it to separate.
Maybe I'm a little late, but it was probably the release bearing holding on. Gotta take off the starter and pull out the dowel that holds the clutch fork on. Then it should come free after you pry the engine from the bell housing using screw drivers or a pry bar.
Is this basically the same procedure for a 1993 Subaru Turbo RS Legacy (Liberty here in Australia) thanks
Yes pretty much exactly the same, the intercooler may be a little different to take off but that clutch should be pull style as well, so it's essentially the exact same.
do u have to engage the throw out bearing into the pressure plate by hand after the job??? seems like i missed this step and my car ain’t shifting correctly?! thanks 🙏
I always do, it's pull style so if it's not clipped in the clutch shouldn't work at all. You should be able to just take the intercooler off and pop it in by hand.
@@HackSquadGarage okay 👌 sweet hoping this fixes my problem as i didn’t do it and i’m hoping i don’t have to drop the transmission again haha thanks again , the video helped a lot!
Lock-tite on the flywheel bolts - in a lot of cars the tapped holes in the crank go into the oil galley of the crank. The lock-tite is used as a gasket material to keep oil from seeping thru. Don’t know if subies need this or not.
This is true, it's very important on LS's for example. Subaru crank shafts are a little different and don't have oil in these galleys, but it's still a good idea to make sure they don't rattle out. I've been back and forth on locktite for subarus for a while.
Really awesome tutorial HSG!!!! Thank you!!! Going to be swapping mine next week in my 08 STi. Any major differences between the 04 and 08? Again, thank you! This video took away a lot of my fears! Bryan
No problem! The job should be pretty much the same process but you have a bigger 6 speed transmission instead of the 5 speed. So some of the components may look different but it's the same job, you can do it at home. Good luck!
Swapping clutch out on my blob eye and the axel pins aren't exposed any thoughts?
If it's the style that does not have roll pins in the axles just pop out, it should have roll pins in the front axles. You just use a punch that's the same size as the pin and hammer it through.
@@HackSquadGarage thanks a ton, they do just pop out and don't have the pin
So do you actually have to rove the clutch fork pin to get the trans out? And what the new one just pops in on install because it came out on the clutch but went in on the trans
Yes you have to remove the pin to get it out. Sometimes you can get it out without taking it off but it's way more difficult and can damage things. That's normal it stayed on the pressure plate, you can pop it off with a flat head if you were reusing parts for some reason. But it always recommended to replace the throw out bearing with an oem one when the transmission is out. You just install it on the fork and after you install everything it will click in the first time you push the pedal down. You can also pop it in with your hand on the fork.
You a beast!
Why do you need to take the large shift fork pin out to get the trans out but you can put it back in before you re install the trans?
On these pull style clutches the throw out bearing clips into the clutch pressure plate, so if you don't take that out the transmission won't separate. Taking it out disconnects the fork from the bearing so the bearing can stay on the clutch and the transmission can slide out.
@@HackSquadGarageawsome thanks for clearing that up.
great vid.
What do you mean he was holding the clutch for too long on hills? Like trans braking down hill too much? What do you mean that he was holding the clutch too much? Was the old one OEM? I'm guessing not because it has that light-weight fly wheel. If torqued properly, whey should it need loctite? People and their damn loctite. I've never used it for anything.
Thanks! What I meant was he was slipping the clutch too much driving in the hills every day and burned the clutch out of it in a few thousand miles, it was a cheap ebay stage 2 clutch that was really grabby/chattery and harder to drive for him, so he cooked it fast. Loctite is a good idea, it depends on the engine, like a lot of Hondas will work flywheel bolts out often without it, but it's good practice to use some blue Loctite just to prevent damage. Most of the subarus I've done I didn't use it without issues but if I'm going to show someone how to do a clutch I'm going to recommend it so hopefully they don't have issues.
Hi! Great video, thanks! I just bought my first Subaru, a 2001 Bugeye WRX sedan, and it has a bad clutch. I've never changed a pull type clutch before (or done any work on a Subaru really) so I have three questions:
1. Will there be any differences for me with a 2001 car compared to this 2004? I heard something about the axles being different maybe?
2. To get the new release bearing to snap into place, do I have to push the clutch fork, or will it snap into place by itself when putting the transmission back on the engine?
3. You never showed the pins locking the axles to the transmission, so I didn't really understand how they lock into place, but I guess I'll find out sooner or later.. :)
Congratulations man! But it sounds like you got a 2002 wrx the first year of the bugeye 👍the job will be exactly the same from 02-05, in 06 they switched to a push style clutch.
Once you have the transmission fully mated back up to the engine you should reach over and push the fork back to clip the bearing in, just makes sure its all lined back up before you try the pedal.
The 04 doesn't have axle pins like the 02 has, it uses a male style axle with a snap ring that locks into the front diff vs yours is a female axle that uses the roll pin to hold the axle on the stub. It only lines up one way, you will notice when you knock the pin out and get the axle off there is a large side of the hole on the axle and the stub on the transmission, if it's off 180 degrees the pin won't go back in.
Otherwise you should be fine. Good luck! 👍
@@HackSquadGarage Thanks! Outside of North America (I'm in Sweden, but this applies to all pretty much all other markets, like Japan/Asia as well AFAIK), we got the Bugeye for MY2001-2002, not MY2002-2003 like you guys did. :) Mine is manufactured in December 2000 as MY01. But anyhow; Thanks, now I have a better image of the process in my head. I'm used to cars with a male style axle stub with a snap ring, so this will be a first for me with this female style.
Are you sure the 04 axels have a clip instead of a pin? I just did the axels on my 04 and I definitely had the roll pins..
@@MrRonaldweasley either way it doesn't really matter, I don't know if this is the original transmission in this car or not so.
Would it have been easier removing bathe engine ?
We have a video on removing the engine but it's a lot more work to do so, a lot more things need to come apart and it will take longer, radiator/coolant wiring etc. But it depends if there are multiple things you are servicing at the same time, or if you only have access to an engine hoist and not a transmission jack.
@Ludakris no problem! So those style axles have a c clip on the tip that has to pop in the groove inside the front differential, they won't go in all the way on their own, the best way to pop them in is to do that part first, take the axle and carefully insert it into the transmission without damaging the axle seal, use the axle/hub sort of like a slide hammer, the joints will move in and out and you can use that like a hammering motion to get the clip to pop in, you may want to detach your tie rod from the hub for more movement. Once it's in you can re install the ball joint. I've even used a big rubber mallet on the axle nut side to do the same thing. That's all there is to it. Good luck!
What’s the part number for this clutch kit ??
Pretty sure it was exeFJK1006
What changes if I have a front mount intercooler? Do I just remove the plumbing?
It depends on the piping and if it's in the way or not when you are accessing the transmission bolts. I have done it with front mount kits that the piping was not in the way but in most situations you'll have to remove the pipes. It's easier sometimes to just remove what's on the way than struggle to work around it.
What was the kit name
you bought ?
The one we put in was an Exedy clutch kit which is the oem clutch subaru uses. You can get them online or if you get them from a dealer it will be in an exedy box. The one we took out was an XTD which is a cheap copy of exedy. Also decent but not as good as the real deal.
Before i end up taking everything apart again do u happen to no of any other reason why the throw out bearing wont snap into place? Is it possible to put in upside down or anything at all? Or do u no of anything i might be able to do (since using just my hand isn't working) to make it snap into place?
No there is not up or down with this style of throw out bearing, I would be concerned you got the wrong style since there is push and pull style clutches, the push style don't clip in and it doesn't have the lock ring on the pressure plate. If you have a camera you could snake down there you may be able to see inside, or if you take out the starter? Other than that you'll have to pull the transmission back a bit and take a look. Might be able to do that without fully taking it out.
Great video
I feel like I have murpheys law when it comes to this stuff man. I just finished everything but everything back together. But car won’t turn over. I put the negative terminal on and it sparks. sometimes even turns the starter on right when I connect the terminal, with key out. Do you know what the heck is causing this?
Something is arching power to the starter solenoid, I would probably take the starter back off, inspect the wiring going to the stater, make sure the ground strap is still on and looks good as well as the positive. The little 1 wire pin that goes to the starter is the solenoid power wire, if that wire gets 12v, the starter is grounded and the positive from the battery to the starter is connected the starter will fire. Just dig around and investigate, something is probably touching something it shouldn't.
At 6:09 was it really that easy to pull out, or do you have to nudge it quite a bit. I’m at this part on my replacement but the thing won’t slide out for some reason.
If it's been in there a while and the grease is all gone it can be stuck in there pretty good. You can thread a bolt into it and try to use some leverage to slide it out. When you put it back in make sure to clean the inside of the fork and grease it up.
Hack Squad Garage hey man another quick question. So I’m at the part now where the transmission is ready to come off. However for some reason, it won’t slide off at all. I angled the engine and everything, but it still won’t come slide off of the dowels or allow me to pry it open at the top. There is no bolts holding it on its basically just the dowels left on it. Any tips or tricks you can tell me to get this darn thing off ?
@@seakayproductions I would just check again to make sure there are no bolts, if there arnt any like you said sometimes the throw out bearing can bind up a bit since it stays with the clutch on removal. The fork has to slide forward to allow it to come off. You can try to pick up on the fork and wiggle it around to get it off the bearing. Other than that make sure the top and bottom of the bell housing is separating equally, if the top is open more than the bottom it will bind on the lower studs. You can move the engine up and down with a jack and some wood to let it slide straight off.
I cannot get the transmission to lineup. No matter what I do. I used the alignment tool correctly when installing the clutch. I can get the two lower bolts into the transmission but it just won’t go flush with the engine FML.
You have to get them to go on evenly, if the top or the bottom is more closed it will bind, you can use a jack with some wood on the oil pan to angle the engine back so you have enough room to let them go on smoothly. That's assuming the clutch is aligned perfectly, they sometimes droop with the alignment tool, I try to pull up on the tool as I'm putting the pressure plate on to counter gravity. The end of the input shaft has to go into the pilot bearing.
Informative and to the point. Excellent vid.
Hello friend I just had new one fitted and now have bad judder on the pedal and whole juddering in 1st gear when realising pedal and no throttle??
This can happen when you don't tighten the pressure plate bolts down evenly, the pressure plate won't put pressure down on the disk evenly and it will chatter. This can also happen if you have one of those upgraded ceramic Puck style clutches.
Hack Squad Garage
I had standard excedy clutch and standard flywheel fitted ,the garage also had my flywheel skimmed. It’s back in garage now 😞
@@gazfreedom9261 they could have resurfaced the flywheel incorrectly or installed it incorrectly. I'm sure they will get you fixed up for free. If it's a good shop they will.
What fluids are involved in this process? I know I need tranny fluid (internet says 80w90 NS), but will I need any other fluids? I intend to replace anything that drains significantly since I just got the car.
The transmission only takes gear oil for a 5 speed manual. 75w90 or 80w90 is fine. Use a synthetic high quality gear oil. Should be 4 to 5qt.
@@HackSquadGarage Thanks! So that's all the fluid that I'll have to deal with? Just the gearbox and not the rear diff or anything?
@@DJ_Level_3 so usually the rear differential fluid is serviced at the same time as the transmission, so you can change it if you want, it's just 1 more qt of the same fluid. But if yours is fine you don't have to change it.
@@DJ_Level_3 but not you shouldn't have to drain any of the other fluids. Bleeding and changing the clutch fluid is sometimes recommended but also not required
@@HackSquadGarage great, that clears up my big worry that I wouldn't have the right fluids on hand haha
How much would the clutch kit be? $$
That depends on how much you are willing to spend and if it comes with a flywheel, a nice oem exedy clutch can be over $500. Or you can get a cheap crappy one off ebay for like $100. For driving feel and reliability you get what you pay for with clutches.
do you have to put a new flywheel on when doing this? i am about to have to replace my clutch and I'm putting a ACT heavy duty clutch in and was wondering if id have to change the flywheel too
You can sometimes get them resurfaced if it's a single mass flywheel. Dual mass flywheels cannot be resurfaced. But I would recommend getting a new flywheel, maybe get act's lightweight flywheel if they offer it.
@@HackSquadGarage yep i have act light weight flywheel in my cart on rallysportdirect, thanks
I did everything but i cant get my throw out bearing wont snap into place. Did i fuck up somewhere or did i miss something?
Usually I just push the fork back and snap it in by hand, it's usually pretty easy unless you got the wrong clutch kit or the wrong bearing somehow. Never had an issue with that. The snap ring on the pressure plate not lining up?
I'm sure it's the right clutch kit. And I'm sure the throw out bearing snaps into the pressure plate cuz i accidentally snapped it on wen i opened the box. Then had to remove it from the pressure plate to put the fork on it before putting the trans back on. But it's definitely not on now that everything is put together
Not only is it definitely not on but i can't seem to get it on either
@@RyanSmith-sk8ve only thing I can think of is its not at the right angle, like it's drooping down and hitting the bottom of the clip. You may have already tried but you could try to pull up on the fork to hopefully get it in the hole of the clip. Hopefully it's not bent or something from the last time it was clipped in and then removed.
Have you guys ever messed around with making hybrid axles to suit the legacy rear hubs and a r180 diff?
We have not done that yet. So far we have not had to funds yo explore 6 speed conversions. But one day we will lol
@@HackSquadGarage wish you guys lived near me. We could document my 6 speed swap.
Just installed new clutch kit on my wrx 02 and everything went in fine but when turned over, and release the clutch, car stalls ??! Pls help
So you are saying when you push the clutch in it stalls? Or when you put it in gear and try to drive it stalls right away? Did you install a stock replacement clutch? Also does it run normally in neutral?
68 and retired. What's your opinion on the turbocharger banjo bolt screen filter issue? Remove or clean and reinstall
So lots of people just remove it without issue, is there to protect the turbo from any debris that might be in the oil, but lots of turbo subarus never had something like that. I would say just remove it and get a replacement that doesn't have it, but does had the correct restrictor for that turbo.
Thanks for the quick reply
No bullshit. If i try this how hard is it to fuck something up? Ive taken apart and rebuilt an engine highschool, and Thats about it other than preventative maintenance.
If you have a transmission jack from harbor freight and a weekend you can do this job. It's really not that hard. You will have the transmission out in probably 3-4 hours if you've never done it before. And you are not going to mess anything up if you put the clutch on correctly. That's pretty much the only thing that can be messed up. Also good time to change the rear main seal if it needs it.
Making it look easy
I have a 2004 Subaru, can you give me the part number of the box, from exedy thanks 👍👍
I don't have the box anymore, this video was a few years ago. I'm sure you can find it online.
How do you pop the ball joint out? I been stuck at this for an hour I couldn’t really pop it out and I was using excessive force with the pry bar to try and get it out but it won’t budge
It may be rusted in there, this is why you put antiseize on it on instalation. You probably need to put a pry bar on it, have someone put pressure on it and use a hammer to knock it loose with pressure on it, maybe even stand on the pry bar.
At 5:11, what is that cable that is right on top of the starter for? I don’t think I have that or I don’t think I plugged it back in, and after putting everything together my car decides to throw a check engine light and a p0335 code popped up for a crankshaft position sensor and my car won’t start at all and I’m trying to find out what is the culprit.
@@yungcano9368 that big black cable is the main ground for the engine and starter, it goes directly to the battery. You car definitely has that somewhere. Check your crank shaft sensor just under the alternator and the wiring connections on top of the bell housing. Something is likely just unpluged.
@@HackSquadGarage yup it was just a starter cable that I forgot to unplug the car is good now
@@yungcano9368 also stuck on the first ball joint :( it came down a little bit, its starting to creep out hopefully I can get it out soon
Ok I need that HF tranny jack
Definitely worth the investment 👍
Where do you find your torque specs?
I use AllData through my work.
@@HackSquadGarage ah... super lucky. I'm jealous 🤣
@@thevincentpaul people on legacy cental and the wrx forums post torque specs all the time. That's where I use to get them was Google.
@@HackSquadGarage yeah I see them post and I see alot of different answers... I try to find the ones with images from the books. 😊
what am i doing wrong that i can't get the transmission back on
The clutch disk is probably not aligned straight. Sometimes it can droop as you put the pressure plate on. Take the pressure plate back off realign it and pull up a bit of on so its straight as you tighten it down. If that doesn't work try turning the motor over with a 22mm slightly to see if the splines align.
i figured out that the dust cover was bent up. but about 23:53 minutes in: my clutch fork moves and doesn't stay back do you know what that could be?
@@torijade1243 oh OK did you put the return spring back on? You can see it in the video. I pulls it back into position
Great video but what the hells up with the sound!
I'm not sure what you mean? Audio seems fine to me
where’s the best place to get a clutch kit
Usually rally sport direct
how long did this take you?
It took me 6 hours including filming, if I was at work on a lift I could have this done in 3 to 4 hours.
Hey man, thanks for this video, I really wouldn’t have been able to do this myself without it. I do have a question tho, I did all of this and installed an exedy blue box and had my original flywheel skimmed. Since finishing the job and driving it for the past few days I’ve noticed one hell of a loud grinding/chattering noise coming from the transmission area ONLY when I am decelerating and the car is in gear, so feet of both the clutch and accelerator pedal. It doesn’t occur when I am accelerating nor at lower speeds. Little concerned since everything else feels great, I’m changing gears completely fine and everything works as it should. Is there anything you could advise? Thanks.
If it didn't do that before I would first go in and make sure everything is tight, especially the subframe and driveshaft, make sure the carrier bolts are torqued to 45ft lbs. And the drive shaft to the rear differential is tight. Also check your transmission fluid level, make sure it's not low. First things first is to check if everything you touched is still tight.
Did you ever figure it out? Got the same thing going on with my car
if still responding about how long did this take you to complete need to know if i can do this after work lol
That depends on your mechanical ability and access to tools, at work with a lift and all my tools I could get this done in about 4-5 hours. At home on the ground it would probably take the majority of the day, 6-8 hours maybe. I would typically set aside a weekend.
Did this guy burn up a clutch in 12k miles? I know the 5spd clutches are kinda small, but that still seems like abuse.
Yes he did, he didn't know how to drive correctly apparently. Luckily we bought this car off him but not before he burnt up the one we installed in this video. Now we get to do it again!
Holy crap. What a pain. I may just pay someone to do this for me.
I mean if you aren't feeling up to it sure. I did this basically alone in 5 or 6 hours. Not that bad imo.
@@HackSquadGarage I guess you are right. It will probably take me a weekend while going at a slower pace. Do you happen to know if there are any major differences for an sti?
@@barsaf9989 yeah you can get it done in a weekend especially with a friend, essentially its the exact same process but with a much bigger 6 speed transmission. The parts may be slightly different but it's the same job as the wrx.
You lit 🔥
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I replace the clutch on my Subaru and now I have no power when I go to start it anybody got any ideas
I have the same problem how did you fix it?
Are you sure it's not easier to just pull the engine??.. I can pull the engine out of my legacy in about an hour and a half.. I went to this video for my neighbor that has a turbo wrx
It's really up to you on what's easier, if you have other things to replace it can make more sense to pull the engine, also if you don't have a transmission jack you probably want to pull the engine. I think it's usually faster to pull the transmission.
Dam only 5 hours!!
Don’t do it in ur driveway
Do the 05 STI’s come with the slave cylinder return spring?
Yes I believe the 05s had a clutch return spring
quick question, i was gonna do this job on a lift until i saw you jack the front of the engine up, is there another way lol
Well you need to tilt the engine back so you can slide the transmission on and off. You would have to do the same thing on a lift with a pole jack. Just Jack it up on the header with a block of wood to protect it. Its just how its done. Don't jack it from the oil pan lol
I’m doing my clutch on my 1999 subaru impreza and i can’t seem to get the ball joint out to lower my control arm (10:12). Any recommendations?
Once you take the bolt out you just need to apply pressure. Sometimes they get rusted in if they haven't changed in a long time. You can use some pb blaster. Or a sledge hammer to hammer down on the control arm to knock it loose. Or the way I like to do it is a 3 foot pry bar from harbor freight, wedge it under the frame and stand on it. When you put it back in put some anti seize on it so it doesn't happen again. If the ball joint is loose and floppy or the boots torn you should get a new one.
@@HackSquadGarage thanks!