This was my engine, I'm sure some of you are wondering the background. I bought the car with 75k miles, and it was completely stock. not even an intake. I had fun with car and occasionally drove it hard, but also did my oil change every 3k miles and I replaced spark plugs right after I bought it. One day I was cruising at 45mph and my oil level light came on. i pulled over and turned it off. My dipstick was popped out and oil was everywhere. I topped it off and continued driving, however anytime i got in boost the dipstick would come out again. Did a compression test to find out I lost compression on cylinder 1. I purchased a used motor from cheap on facebook and drove 3 hours to get it. Big mistake. Dude told me there was a head issue, so i said sweet, i just need the block. ended up having having a spun bearing. Cylinder 1 piston was blown apart (assuming from detonation) in the motor that was in my car. With no more money and 2 torn apart motors, and borrowing someone's garage (which i had 2 more days before i had to leave) i threw a "good" piston from the motor i bought into mine, hoping it would last long enough for me to get rid of the car. Didnt last a day XD. I had to suck it up and buy a legit good motor (using the rest of my savings) and swapped the good motor in. now the clutch is slipping and it isnt exactly running right so i havent been driving it. (I owe 22k on this car). yeah i know i messed up several times, and honestly i dont think i should have bought that wrx in the first place. I just dont make enough money.
I bought a W8 Passat, its an auto and I'd definitely advise to have the transmission serviced, but its a much less expensive AWD 275 hp car. The throttle response is uselessly delayed, I mean its atrocious but its a sweet car. Its like Mike Tyson in a Tuxedo...Hell, you could get a 20 year old manual legacy or outback and have almost as much fun. Just get a $1500 rally car you can beat on.
The problem with turbo scoobies is typically someone gets a hold of one and instantly becomes a “tuner”. They bolt on stuff that requires a lot of ancillary work without doing said work and they cheap out on doing stuff like properly decking the heads. They then take their 400 hp hand grenade out and beat the living snot out of it and are shocked when parts of the rotating assembly reach escape velocity!
Having worked at a pacific northwest Subaru dealership service department and I can attest to the fact that kids buy WRXs that can barely afford them and then can't afford to maintain them and roast the engines on a regular basis.
@@HenrySomeone And at some dealerships, they take the young guy aside when he buys the car and offers to reflash the ECU so the warranty will be void when the engine blows, just like it would have if it had never been modified and had been maintained by the book.
I own an EJ25 that i did a roll disk resurface on. Not for lack of money but lack of time. Every machine shop was weeks out and i had about a week to get the heads done and car back together. So together it went after checking with a straight edge. That was 80k miles ago. No problems yet. I feel like i won the lottery on that one.
Yup. Keep 'em stock and keep oil in 'em and they will run hundreds of thousands of miles no problem. But WRX owners just can't seem to stop themselves from loading up the bolt-ons...
@@evoman44 I took a Ford ranger one time with a hole burnt through the #1 piston did a frame job on it(engine still in pickup) replaced just the number one piston, rings and bearings on the number one cylinder and put it back together again. My business partner was worried about it not lasting and wanted to sell it. The guy who bought it for his dad was told what I had found and done to fix it. He said his old man didn't care. His dad drove the truck for another 7-8 years before finally junking it and never touched that motor again. It is possible to take some short cuts but you have to have a good understanding of how engines work and with aluminum engines you have to be way more careful with cleaning gasket surfaces like head gaskets.
Eric sloshes his hand in the waste oil searching for the dropped socket extension, and I'm thinking "Doesn't he have a magnet on a stick?" And shortly thereafter, he's splitting the block and fishes out bolts with... a magnet on a stick! What time do you film these awesome teardowns that you're thinking so clearly?
Thanks for the Shout out Eric, and letting me be apart of the video. To those who wish to bring up a forum post about Pmp from 12 years ago, Give it a rest... this is a salvage yard, not a puppy and kitten adoption center, we will never make 100% of the people happy 100% of the time. Thanks!
Owned a 15 Forester XT with this engine, the Forester gave me more problems than this engine. Strangest quirk about the whole car was that it really disliked having a weak battery, even giving engine lights over it. That car wore its wheel bearings and broke studs on the front passenger side consistently. Plugs looked a lot better than that when I changed them in this video. Oh and these cars lose the refrigerant every 2-3 years in Florida but generally the cooling system held up. The A/C pump gets noisy when its low. I gave that thing every little preventative service, which I think is the most important thing, nothing runs long without keeping the changeable fluids and parts out today.
I'm blessed to have a FA20DIT exception. 260k miles stock block, stage 3 with full bolt ons at 190k on 93. It shits out fireballs and cries out in pain but still lives. I'm the original owner of this turd bucket :)
The turbo nut is counter clockwise threaded so should never be able to unscrew. and the piston small end cap was not tightened at all? could this be an Insurance scam ?.
@@kviasen7603 If there is one brand where you don't need to do an insurance scam (atleast as far as blown up engines go), it's Subaru - you just drive it a bit more and it will do that for you... 😆😆
Seen that a few times in the spring with birds nesting in DC-8 cabin compressor inlets on the nose.4 of them Boom! They were humming along till they just let go. The two outer compressors were not horrible to change. The two inboards were a nightmare. What a design.
Fun fact about that turbo location, it is not new to the FA platform. There were also bottom mount turbo EJ engines available on the 2010-2012 Legacy GT which was also mated to the new 6 speed transmission that replaced the old 5 speed. It is almost identical to the 2015+ WRX unit.
I can attest to how good the H6 is. I had to replace a timing chain on an early 2000’s Outback. The job was a complete nightmare (I had never done one and the entire powertrain had to be dropped and I was working in an aftermarket shop). But, this engine ran very well and it had just under 250,000 miles on it. I was quite impressed by it, which is saying something because I am not a Subaru fan.
"Sparkle Sensor" That actually exists in aviation. Helicopter transmissions have "chip detectors", which sense the forbidden glitter and let the pilots know they are about do to an autorotation......
Not just helicopters, just about every turbine engine has them. Funny part of the TPE331-10N engine (one of the ones on the Cessna conquest) is that the chip detector isn't connected to the harness. Every 24 months you're supposed to take it out and look at it to see if the magnet has grabbed a chip lol
If you're a subaru driver, what helps is cutting your oil changes in half. They seem to get alot of fuel in oil. When that happens you detonation in the oil control ring. Which in the end blows your engine
Soon as we heard this came from a WRX, it was obvious what we would find. WRX owners, after all, never modify their cars and always drive moderately only to church on Sundays.
@@aaronbryan5095Not as much as keeping it at 7000rpm most of the time. At idle the all the parts and fluids stay at operating temp and is the best time for them. I dont know about in USA but here in aus, taxis easily see 700,000km+ from an engine because theyre never turned off.
Yaaaaay, finally my engine on the channel (not my actual engine, yet). I have a 2016 with 140K, original stock long block, has every mod you can imagine. I bought it brand new in 2015 and has been modded since first pulling it into my driveway. As with any other turbo engine, change and CHECK your oil more often than recommended and it'll serve you well. Also get a tune that suits your location/weather/seasons, the engine runs so much healthier when it's not running the stock tune, modded or not.
Owner of 3 Subarus, one of which has this exact motor in it, and it was great seeing a full FA20 teardown! I'm so glad you showed the intake valves, as I wasn't able to find a reliable source on how bad the carbon can get for a long time. Much LESS worried now having seen this, as we are clearly nowhere near Volkswagen / Mini levels of DI filth. Ironically it's my H6 Subaru engine that gives me the most grief, though to be fair that IS because it's 30 years old! (Definitely support the H6 recommendation, a shame Subaru stopped making them). Specific to what Eric found here: the wet plugs is a common phenomenon on FA20s if I understand it correctly. One of my driver side plugs had a similar look to it when I replaced them last year. Seems this unit was the same. Also this engine was definitely mangled by someone before it got to the stand of shame. Only heard of one type of 3M rollock wheel being approved for use by Subaru, and that was only for removing RTV, not for..."re surfacing" the heads (I'd probably stick with a razor blade anyway, just to be safe). Would love to see an FA24 teardown once one inevitably ends up in your shop! Curious to see the differences in valvetrain and connecting rods, two areas Subaru supposedly tried to improve after people started finding the limits of the FA20. PS - Don't let the memes scare you, modern 4 cylinder Subarus are not all time bombs, and any ordinary Subaru that's been well maintained by a normal person should serve you just fine as long as you pay attention and take care of it. You can even find relatively un-ruined 2015+ WRXs easily enough if you dig a little because chasing big power without port injection is prohibitively expensive for a lot of people. Just try and avoid buying someone else's instagram build and you'll likely be fine
I own a 2020 wrx with 55k on it and i love my ol'girl i take care of her but anyway if you want to see tear downs and other knowledge on the FA20 or the FA24 engines 3 of the most knowledable subaru humans on youtube maybe the whole internet check out MotoIQ, Mrsubaru1387 and Smeedia.
Thanks Erik, I was waiting for you to do a FA20F. 5:10 - People do remove the diverters if they are deleting the tgv's, otherwise it is bad to take them out if not tgv deleted. 9:10 - There is nothing wrong with a regular drain bolt, people put these Fumoto valves on for absolutely no good reason. 15:20 - That would be an exhaust leak, there was a recall on these for the exhaust manifold nuts loosening for the earlier production years. 17:30 - factory turbo, maybe a re-maned one, wonder how that nut came loose? 30:00 - Oil level sensor was a nice addition to the FA motors that the EJ does not come equipped with. Like that you capitalized on the ease of serviceability that Subaru designed in, pretty rare to see improvements made from previous motor designs when comparing to other manufacturers in today's disposable world. You did miss some opportunities to show the filter screens in the cam carriers and avcs/turbo feed line banjo bolts.
I just love the engineering that goes into these things. I know these engines get a bad rap but I believe it's more the type of people who are into these cars and how young they are and how often they beat on them without maintaining them.
I have the exact same engine and same model year Subaru. If you modify it( like mine heavily) you MUST have it professionally tuned on a dyno to accommodate the changes. Otherwise they will blow like this one. Maintenance is also imperitive on these, especially turbo models. An IAG air/ oil separator is a must to decrease buildup on intake valves. Then you just pray!! I got 65k on mine and it's smooth as butter
130k miles on my '16, and I'm on e50. Crazy how reliable it can be if you do the right mods and do regular maintenance. It's a good car if you take care of it
This is one reason why I turned down a order for a 2023 GR86. The more I learned about the engines the more I knew that I was biting off more than I could chew when it came to modding. Not to mention the closest well reviewed specialty tuner for Subaru's was nearly 900 miles away.
2018 WRX here, same story, absolutely no signs of engine trouble after 6 years and nearing 100k kilometers. Only concern I have is corrosion on the copper oil cooler potentially causing a leak in the future, and that's just the great salty north working its magic, not Subaru's fault. Leave these engines stock, or modify them *slowly* making sure to properly dial in each mod / tune, and they really won't treat you that poorly at all, especially if you have a local Subaru shop who can help you out with the heavy stuff. If you absolutely must, throw an AOS at the carbon buildup problem, but even if you don't (I personally haven't) it REALLY isn't that big of a deal. This engine may look gross to those with port injection, but just look at some of the earlier direct injection Minis, Audis, and Volkswagens and you'll quickly see what REAL carbon buildup looks like. (Hint: it was way worse than what you see here, and probably part of why people fear direct injection to this day)
@@alexpetree2038 Modified turbo subaru engines kick the can far before 100k miles. I wasn't trying to be impressive--I was merely stating how many miles the car has Edited.
Is it possible to see the ecu output at the time of failure? Like rpm and error codes? It would provide a nice picture of why they fail. Like a black box
Eric, great content. I always enjoy the surprises when you pop parts off and find problems.... I do want to mention (after watching your tools fall apart several times) that they sell the keepers for the ends of extensions/drivers fairly cheap! 😂 Keep up the good work!
I’m glad to read the owner of the motor story. My neighbor has a blown head gasket , been leaking for months and told them to not drive it in this heat, just came into this video to say, KAABBBOOOMMMM. I’d share my personal story on my 16 gmc Sierra Denali ultimate with the. 5.3. Oil change every 2500 miles, catch can, had the notorious afm lifter failure. It was done. I’ve owned a new 23’ Nissan Armada platinum with the thirsty 5.6, and it has been absolutely amazing. It’s the only Nissan I’d buy
That's actually a good thing. The average car today have little options available other than buying a new engine or short block because they are not rebuild able and the used salvage engines are too risky.
I have this engine in my Forrester XT, and when I was looking at buying it, I talked to my mechanic about the reliability and the one thing he said was check the oil and check it often.
@9:10 - I had a Fumoto locking ball valve on my old 99 Forester. Made changing oil a toolless prospect. DO NOT take your car to a lube place without first explaining what the valve is. A friend did this and the oil change place did a Fumoto delete on his car because they couldn't figure it out. They also charged him for a new oil drain bolt and crush washer.
@@cricketyosh The friend got the valve based on my recommendation. He traveled all over in his vehicle and if it got even 2 miles over a scheduled oil change, he panicked. He had taken it to a quick lube place over a lunch break in Solon Ohio.
@@TechGorilla1987What's the point though? Undoing a drain plug takes seconds, and it looked like the flow out of the ball valve was much lower than out of a regular drain plug.
Just replaced HG on FB25 engine. . Luckily all I had to do was clean the pistons and get the heads surfaced. All the bearings looked good and even with the blown HG the engine ran perfectly. Super quiet no piston slapping. 120k 2011 forester. I had 1 o-ring left from the gasket kit and I did not know where it went. I already glued everything back together but the timing cover. My worst fear was I needed to dismantle everything to put this one o-ring I missed. After looking all over I fount it was part of a pair and I would have to tear the engine down to replace it. It is the o-ring that sits between both halves of the block. Which I did not split. 😜Thanks for showing how and hopefully the next engine I rebuild does not look like the one you just took apart.
It may go against some of your ideals but I would like you to tear down some high mileage running engines, like some toyota and LS with like 500k miles. See what some well cared for engines that are getting toward the end of their useful life and note the difference from the ones who meet a destructive end. Love the content
117k on my full bolt on FA20 running e50 and making 360/350 on an unequal length header and stock turbo, 4 different dyno sessions throughout the modification process. they're good engines if taken care of right. I've had mine going on 7 years and the only issue I've had is a bad OCV which was $50 bucks. I take it to plenty of mexico nights and play when I want to but take care of it and drive normal most of the time. That was the stock turbo btw.
I have found myself checking my oil level more thanks to these videos. My VW was a quart low yesterday. Just think of all the engine lives you have saved.
Great Video. My son told me some horror stories about these engines. He had a WRX and thank god he bought warranty and it had to pay for a new motor. When he picked it up went straight to a Mazda dealer and traded it in. Bad design.
@@connor1285 well, I mean, that was kind of a given with the extremely obviously counterfeit turbo. Entirely bogus markings everywhere, wrong finish, very obviously the wrong impeller bolt, wrong wastegate actuator, etc., etc., etc.
Eric suggested at 39:44 that the skirt wear on the pistons had a lot to do with the rod offset, the angle. I don’t think this caused the skirt wear. There isn’t any offset, the centre line of the rod shaft still goes through the centre of the crankpin. The piston doesn’t know that the big end is rotated relative to the rod shaft. I think the lower rod bolt has more load than the upper one now, it needs to be strong enough. Would be good to have fracture-split rod caps, I guess. IanB
Bought my 17 wrx with 50k on it completely stock from an older lady. Car now has 90k oil changes every 3k miles tranny, rear diff and spark plugs every 30k. I have a hand held tuner to eliminate rev hang and monitor fine knock learn and feedback knock as well as other systems to know if somethings going wrong before it’s too late. So far so good. 95° days 85 on the highway oil temps rarely go above 225°. Not a bad car just really gotta take care of them. Still completely stock it’s just more fun to drive than an accord or Camry. Definitely wish I did more research on maintenance before I bought it cuz I’d be fine with a basically maintenance free Camry lol
My stock ‘17 WRX blew off two pieces of the #4 piston skirt at 113,000 miles which then fell into the oil pain ruining the bearings. No I didn’t race it, auto cross it etc it just blew up. As I stated it was stock. I also maintained it diligently trying to avoid a catastrophic engine failure. I’m not a kid either I’m in my 50s. I’ll never buy a Subaru again.
2005 WRX owner here with 140k miles. I think mine has lasted as long as it has even though I have tracked it a few times because I have addressed the flaws those particular models had. From what I have read your generation engines had an issue with uneven cooling of the cylinders. But there is a simple modification that fixes the issue by adding another coolant line to the block. They even make a kit for the fix. Another thing that causes damage to boxer engines is lugging it by being in too tall of a gear when traveling a slow speed. That causes detonation and piston slap.
I’m 44 and own a 24 WRX TR as a daily. Stock except for wheels and some cosmetic stuff. I have coilovers ready for spring just to give it a good stance and smoother ride. I drive normal and do all my own maintenance. Car sees full throttle maybe once a week. I’m still worried it’ll blow up haha. Luckily I can afford to fix it but it’s sad I have no faith in the drivetrain.
I applaud Subaru for the serviceability upgrades. The older versions that you tore down were just bizarre. I work on flat aircraft engines all of the time but they are almost lawnmowerish compared to flat automobile engines!
@@stephenw2992 I don't know for sure but the old Subarus I worked on the engines seemed too heavy and underpowered for aircraft use. I think there is an experimental engine based on the newer engines, though. I think it's called a Jabiru.
Eric, when you had discovered a piece of compression ring. Not only was that funny. Based on how they “resurface the head” . Along with multiple bolts being clearly loose. I found it funny when you mentioned at the end when you said when you were talking about the split block being any good. “if anybody would rebuild these engines“. Clearly, somebody made a very poor attempt and you see the results.LOL
Watching you tear that engine down I've decided that a long time ago Subaru got a tiger by the tail and never figured out how to let go! Massive parts (front engine cover) heavy expensive to manufacture loosing all around I was watching on TV booted up my phone so i could comment!!
16 WRX owned since new. Oil change religiously every 3500. Modded and tuned properly, 300hp, 350trq at the wheels. Warm up procedure meant it never saw boost or high rpm until at operating temp for 2 minutes. Drove it 120k miles and not so much as a seep of oil anywhere. Hummed along beautifully. I had to trade it in for an automatic Camry to help my brother out. But the only thing that went wrong on that car was the clutch
Extended oil change intervals and use of non-synthetic oil may be cause of many of these subaru issues. I noticed on my EJ253 motor that if I tried to extend the oil change interval beyond the severe service interval the oil would always be down a quart. Seemed like the oil was thinned out and started to be used quickly after about 3000 miles of use. Little oil use up to 3000, lots of oil use after 3000.
Here are a couple engines you should tear down just for fun. GM 1.5L Turbo 4 (LYX) Ford Godzilla 7.3L V8 Chrysler 2.4L Tigersharl MultiAir I4 Toyota A25A-FXS (Camry or RAV4 hybrid) Chrysler Pentastar 3.2L V6
ViseGrip makes a special model (the Locking Wrench) just for removing rounded bolts. It has a V-shaped jaw. I don't use it often, but when you need it's a godsend.
I have a 2019 WRX with this engine and it's given me 49K completely trouble free miles. It gets driven aggressively but not abused and I'm obsessively meticulous about oil changes and I check it regularly. It's never used a drop thankfully. I'm definitely aware of the pitfalls of this engine if it's not maintained.
I totally agree about the 6 cylinder being the better engine. I have a 2010 3.6R Legacy with 130,000 on it and it runs sweet. It has get up and go and runs silent. It did use oil but at 100,000 I used Liqui Moly engine flush, changed the oil twice after using it and oil consumption dropped drastically. Personally I think the XA type oil ring expander gets cruded and stops the oil rails from rotating.I believe that allows oil to flow freely to the second ring and crudes that up. Vertical based cylinders at least have a better chance of shedding oil secondary to gravity...Subaru engines do not have that luxury. I bought a 2019 3.6R just because it was the last year for the 6 cylinders. Didn't really need the car but what the hell. It sat in the garage for 3 years and now has 20,000 miles on it. It runs great but that CVT transmission blows IMO. I'll be making sure that is dealer serviced at 30,000 and every 30,000 after that. I have to say the 2019 is a nice car for a Subaru.....great ride, handles well and the engine runs like a Swiss watch.
When I worked at a garbage dump, the policy was if you were the first person to operate a vehicle for the day, you were REQUIRED to check oil, water and air pressure in tires. Then, whenever you got in a vehicle before you moved it, you checked the oil. Our equipment never failed.
I've had two modded WRXes and never had a single problem with either (both bought new). Both have had a lot of power. First was a 2008 that I put the 200 turbo on, bigger intercooler, full exhaust, tune, etc. I ran that car for 60k miles and the stock clutch was still fine when I got rid of it. But I never launched it, and always drove it as genty as one can while enjoying the power. Next is my new 2024. It makes even more power. The FA24 is a helluva good motor design compared to the FA20 before it (much stronger overall design). The issue on these cars is that if it's not an STI, the transmission is only good to about 450 whp, after which you are going to blow your clutch and your transmission. So I'm shooting for about 400-420 whp and will drive it respecftully just as I did the 2008. IF I do blow the tranny, then it'll get an STI swap and I'll shoot for the moon. FWIW, the FA20's have a reputation for throwing rods around 80k. And the best advice I was ever given was: NEVER buy a used WRX (or STI).
Hope my EJ22E doesn't blow up like that! 101k and going strong! Eric you should try finding an EJ22E like what's in my 98 legacy. Perhaps the best Subaru engine ever made blowing head gaskets VERY rarely unlike the ej20 or ej25.
@@suzumr2754 yeah, it's a shame it was only made from 1989-2001. Subaru should have kept making it possibly even today. It might even be more reliable than the FA engines.
@@BrainyThyme3869 yeah but with the current emission standards, it would suffer the same fate as the old school diesels that are praised for their durability and redundancy, only to be crippled by inferior and overly complex emissions devices.
You are always interesting and I learn good information. THANKS! That engine is too complex for anyone not familiar with the brand. Congrats on that long distance water pump toss.
i have my 2019 wrx completely stock. bought it with 49K miles on it. runs smooth and no issues with it (Crosses fingers) i plan on getting rid of it before it 75K miles on it. im at 63K now, i dont trust this thing past 80K plus the value of the car just tanks at these millages anyway. plus the torque dip on the fa20 is horrid.
The H6 isn't as plentiful as the boxer engines and is not nearly as abused. That being said, they can and do blow up, leak oil, and all the other Subaru goodies. The front cover ( to block ) is very, VERY fun to reseal.
To me, having the number of cams equal to the number of cylinders suggests unnecessary complexity. Plus that just seems like a really large engine for a 2.0. I’d be interested to see a K24 on the channel, especially one that has seen some mods or one of the DI ones. I’m sure at least a few have gotten blown up.
dohc is why the boxer is almost gone. they were more competitive in the past with a single cam. on the upside though, there's not as much cam twist like in a 6 or 8 cylinder. not as many blown head gaskets due to the short head not expanding and contracting as much.
I had a 2020 WRX limited for a few years, I wanted more punishment in the fuel expenses department so I have a 2018 STI now. The turbo is reasonably protected if the factory shields on the body are left in place. That still doesn't make it a great placement though, overall heat concentration, oil roasting, and water from the road were my concerns. The positioning of the turbo puts almost directly behind the bottom of the sturdy-ish radiator support and there is a pretty thick metal bottom shield panel that would help push the object on the road down rather than something smoking the turbo right away. The turbo would survive most road debris like a medium sized piece of a tire or smaller sticks, but would definitely get wasted by something like an entire wheel or maybe a tree limb of about forearm thickness. Also, that oil drain is from Fumoto. They are handy if you get the one with a hose barb, I can put my used oil back into the previous jug, it makes changes in an apartment parking lot hella easy and much cleaner. If the Fumoto is installed properly it, a) has the opening lever "on the top" so doesn't snag on anything from below b) is situated so that the lever has to actually be turned forward toward the front of the car to be opened c) has it's lever locking clip still available. I've had one on my STI for 10k miles and it's been great.
@@Thatdavemarsh Yeah Dave, I spoke way to soon on that one: I saw the brass plug a little later on! It was the bottomside turbo that threw me! I didn't like the fact that Eric was trashing Subaru. If the engines fail in those cars: is that people don't take care, and do the maintenance on them like they're suppose to! I have a very high opinion of those cars!
My 169k mile 2015 wrx limited is still going strong, fortunately lol. Got it cheap for 12.5 only because it has the cvt, which is surprisingly amazing. I'm seriously thinking about doing a complete rebuild on it before anything catostophic happens lol.
It is difficult to determine if that piece of compression ring that you found actually came from this engine. You cold lay the piece of ring in the bore and see if the ring makes total contact with the bore. As far as removing pistons goes. I have found that using a piece of NMT (non metallic tubing) AKA plastic conduit, works wonders. It comes in 10 foot lengths and is easily cut with a hacksaw or any type of power saw. The 1/2 or 3/4 inch NMT works for 90% of the engines that you work on. Being plastic, it will cause no harm to the piston/rod assembly, nor the bore or block of the engine being disassembled. It is flexible enough to bend slightly so that you can maneuver it however it is necessary to remove the offending part. A small length of 2x4 serves as a hammer to tap the NMT to remove the piston and rod. Best of all, it is unaffected by grease/gas and oil AND is cheap to buy. For large diesel engines you may need a length of 1 inch NMT.
I've seen a lot of your video's and enjoy the process of tearing it apart but one question you through away many many good parts that could be reused & sold for good money instead of getting pennies for them i can see you probably make good money off these video's with many people seeing them and i really enjoy them im a subscriber and seeing you through good parts in a trash can i don't enjoy that part of your video's i hate to see good thing's go to waist...
I have a 2007 Civic Si with 195k miles. I’m pretty sure there are some out there with more miles but i beat on her. Only thing wrong with it is it has a worn down main input shaft due to a bad throw out bearing but it’s still runs good. Honda FTW. Slow but reliable.
Why would you do that? Did you try to modify it not knowing what you are doing or don't change her oil and do proper maintenance like a vehicle should get done? If not you're comment makes no sense.
This was my engine, I'm sure some of you are wondering the background. I bought the car with 75k miles, and it was completely stock. not even an intake. I had fun with car and occasionally drove it hard, but also did my oil change every 3k miles and I replaced spark plugs right after I bought it. One day I was cruising at 45mph and my oil level light came on. i pulled over and turned it off. My dipstick was popped out and oil was everywhere. I topped it off and continued driving, however anytime i got in boost the dipstick would come out again. Did a compression test to find out I lost compression on cylinder 1. I purchased a used motor from cheap on facebook and drove 3 hours to get it. Big mistake. Dude told me there was a head issue, so i said sweet, i just need the block. ended up having having a spun bearing. Cylinder 1 piston was blown apart (assuming from detonation) in the motor that was in my car. With no more money and 2 torn apart motors, and borrowing someone's garage (which i had 2 more days before i had to leave) i threw a "good" piston from the motor i bought into mine, hoping it would last long enough for me to get rid of the car. Didnt last a day XD. I had to suck it up and buy a legit good motor (using the rest of my savings) and swapped the good motor in. now the clutch is slipping and it isnt exactly running right so i havent been driving it. (I owe 22k on this car). yeah i know i messed up several times, and honestly i dont think i should have bought that wrx in the first place. I just dont make enough money.
Loved the video
Oh man. Appreciate the story and hope the replies don’t go too crazy on you 😂
$14,400 for a long block. Ouch. $4500 for a used. Even that is an ouch. Sorry things went bad.
I bought a W8 Passat, its an auto and I'd definitely advise to have the transmission serviced, but its a much less expensive AWD 275 hp car. The throttle response is uselessly delayed, I mean its atrocious but its a sweet car. Its like Mike Tyson in a Tuxedo...Hell, you could get a 20 year old manual legacy or outback and have almost as much fun. Just get a $1500 rally car you can beat on.
Sorry to hear that worked out so badly for you. Some of life’s best lessons really hurt in the moment. Wishing you the best.
The problem with turbo scoobies is typically someone gets a hold of one and instantly becomes a “tuner”. They bolt on stuff that requires a lot of ancillary work without doing said work and they cheap out on doing stuff like properly decking the heads. They then take their 400 hp hand grenade out and beat the living snot out of it and are shocked when parts of the rotating assembly reach escape velocity!
It does seem like these cars are very attractive to the least skilled and most overconfident owners.
Not really, they are plenty capable of blowing up (often spectacularly!) even completely stock.
WRXs have crazy road holding but not amazing anti slosh in the oil pan. It’s why Killer Bee makes so much money.
No. The problem is that these engines are old designs that have been "modernized" with a focus on production cost reduction. That's why they suck.
@@HenrySomeone Incorrect, but keep trying. Its ok. We forgive you.
Having worked at a pacific northwest Subaru dealership service department and I can attest to the fact that kids buy WRXs that can barely afford them and then can't afford to maintain them and roast the engines on a regular basis.
I usually joke that if a WRX is in the shop and it's not for regular maintenance, It's usually for being treated like trash.
And even if you maintain them religiously, they'll still blow up sooner or later...
@@HenrySomeone And at some dealerships, they take the young guy aside when he buys the car and offers to reflash the ECU so the warranty will be void when the engine blows, just like it would have if it had never been modified and had been maintained by the book.
@@HenrySomeone Every engine blows up sooner or later. What's your point?
@@YOLO891 Nah, just the Subies 🤣🤣
The best part today: "that metal has oil in it", that is a new level.
I loved that .
"would you like some oil with your metal shavings sir?"
Came across this comment as he said it, perfect
I own an EJ25 that i did a roll disk resurface on. Not for lack of money but lack of time. Every machine shop was weeks out and i had about a week to get the heads done and car back together. So together it went after checking with a straight edge. That was 80k miles ago. No problems yet. I feel like i won the lottery on that one.
Yes, I think the MGT2259S is the OEM turbo for the Forester XT and WRX during those years.
Yep that is the turbo
AND you can get a remanufactured one for only $700 - $750 plus shipping. (Eric is crying real tears at this point.)
I spent 0 minutes searching for this info. I knew all would be revealed right here in the comments.🤘
So, car videos someday? Esp. if it's 80's cars.😉
Unexpected Adrian's digital basement
Watching you admire timing chains as if they were high quality gold ones will forever be one of my favorite bits of this channel.
I think he has a timing chain fetish. With how he handles them, with how he talks about them, yeah……….
I think we need a 'top 10 eric's favorite timing chains' episode
" Somebody's been in there" is the boxer engine death sentence
Yup. Keep 'em stock and keep oil in 'em and they will run hundreds of thousands of miles no problem. But WRX owners just can't seem to stop themselves from loading up the bolt-ons...
I recommend reading the previous owner's comment that is now pinned at the top. He basically half assed the rebuild himself because he was broke.
It feels like a Dankpods reference
If you can tell someone was in there, it is already too late!
@@evoman44 I took a Ford ranger one time with a hole burnt through the #1 piston did a frame job on it(engine still in pickup) replaced just the number one piston, rings and bearings on the number one cylinder and put it back together again. My business partner was worried about it not lasting and wanted to sell it. The guy who bought it for his dad was told what I had found and done to fix it. He said his old man didn't care. His dad drove the truck for another 7-8 years before finally junking it and never touched that motor again. It is possible to take some short cuts but you have to have a good understanding of how engines work and with aluminum engines you have to be way more careful with cleaning gasket surfaces like head gaskets.
I thought the Bering Sea was between Alaska and Russia not in the bottom of a Subaru oil pan 😱
😂 Very punny.
😂
Be-Ring? Yeah, we saw that!
Good 1 😂😂😂😂
Eric sloshes his hand in the waste oil searching for the dropped socket extension, and I'm thinking "Doesn't he have a magnet on a stick?" And shortly thereafter, he's splitting the block and fishes out bolts with... a magnet on a stick! What time do you film these awesome teardowns that you're thinking so clearly?
Usually 10pm to 1am lol
Better was when he was getting ready to throw the water pump. 🤣
Thanks for the Shout out Eric, and letting me be apart of the video. To those who wish to bring up a forum post about Pmp from 12 years ago, Give it a rest... this is a salvage yard, not a puppy and kitten adoption center, we will never make 100% of the people happy 100% of the time. Thanks!
You guys are great! I bought a transmission from you guys years ago.
@@AudioHead809 Thanks!
So you say I can't adopt a Ford Coyote or an LS...?
My heart is broken in pieces.
Owned a 15 Forester XT with this engine, the Forester gave me more problems than this engine. Strangest quirk about the whole car was that it really disliked having a weak battery, even giving engine lights over it. That car wore its wheel bearings and broke studs on the front passenger side consistently. Plugs looked a lot better than that when I changed them in this video. Oh and these cars lose the refrigerant every 2-3 years in Florida but generally the cooling system held up. The A/C pump gets noisy when its low. I gave that thing every little preventative service, which I think is the most important thing, nothing runs long without keeping the changeable fluids and parts out today.
I'm blessed to have a FA20DIT exception. 260k miles stock block, stage 3 with full bolt ons at 190k on 93. It shits out fireballs and cries out in pain but still lives. I'm the original owner of this turd bucket :)
That lil chinga dera hanging off the cam is a brake booster vacuum pump
Garrett Honeywell makes the oem 15-21 turbo.
That turbo impeller looks like it came off an airplane after a bird strike.
Don't know that we've ever seen one THAT wrecked!
The turbo nut is counter clockwise threaded so should never be able to unscrew. and the piston small end cap was not tightened at all? could this be an Insurance scam ?.
@@kviasen7603 If there is one brand where you don't need to do an insurance scam (atleast as far as blown up engines go), it's Subaru - you just drive it a bit more and it will do that for you... 😆😆
Charles the "Humble Mechanic" guy dissected a GTI engine some years ago, and the turbo was at least that chewed up.
@@kviasen7603 - BIG end cap actually = learn mechanics.
Seen that a few times in the spring with birds nesting in DC-8 cabin compressor inlets on the nose.4 of them
Boom!
They were humming along till they just let go.
The two outer compressors were not horrible to change. The two inboards were a nightmare.
What a design.
Fun fact about that turbo location, it is not new to the FA platform. There were also bottom mount turbo EJ engines available on the 2010-2012 Legacy GT which was also mated to the new 6 speed transmission that replaced the old 5 speed. It is almost identical to the 2015+ WRX unit.
I can attest to how good the H6 is. I had to replace a timing chain on an early 2000’s Outback. The job was a complete nightmare (I had never done one and the entire powertrain had to be dropped and I was working in an aftermarket shop). But, this engine ran very well and it had just under 250,000 miles on it. I was quite impressed by it, which is saying something because I am not a Subaru fan.
My favorite part of Saturday. Cheers Sir
I have an FA20 DIT 2.0 turbo in our daily driver, a 2015 Subaru. It's fun to see it torn down, thanks for your effort.
"Sparkle Sensor"
That actually exists in aviation. Helicopter transmissions have "chip detectors", which sense the forbidden glitter and let the pilots know they are about do to an autorotation......
I have seen that light come on.
@@halkennedy6353
Mayday mayday mayday.....
most modern turbine engines have it as well - making metal is a quick way to IFSD
@@halkennedy6353 😳 I'm glad you are here to tell me that!
Not just helicopters, just about every turbine engine has them. Funny part of the TPE331-10N engine (one of the ones on the Cessna conquest) is that the chip detector isn't connected to the harness. Every 24 months you're supposed to take it out and look at it to see if the magnet has grabbed a chip lol
This channel is so relaxing. It's ASMR for gearheads. Gnight 309 wherever you are.❤
If you're a subaru driver, what helps is cutting your oil changes in half. They seem to get alot of fuel in oil. When that happens you detonation in the oil control ring. Which in the end blows your engine
Soon as we heard this came from a WRX, it was obvious what we would find.
WRX owners, after all, never modify their cars and always drive moderately only to church on Sundays.
Don’t forget they hire the very best technicians to make sure their race ready super cars are ready for any challenge at the drive thru.
They sit there and idle at restaurant drive thru's. Never get above 3k RPMs. Granny drivers. 😂😂
@@F32_Rocket idling often will still wear out an engine by quite a bit though
Driving Miss Daisy.
@@aaronbryan5095Not as much as keeping it at 7000rpm most of the time. At idle the all the parts and fluids stay at operating temp and is the best time for them.
I dont know about in USA but here in aus, taxis easily see 700,000km+ from an engine because theyre never turned off.
Thats why i bought from subaru dealer with warranty, drove it nice, and its been super reliable
"Debris... took off the tip" well played.
Also, nice jab at Ray!
BTW speedkar had a 3.6L Subie teardown a while back, was interesting!
Explain please lol
I came to the comments to see how many of us appreciated that little bit of dad joke brilliance!
holy smokes! with the oil pan sitting directly over the exhaust, these engines must absolutely cook the oil.
I was thinking that as well some will say but it has heat Shields and I say not when they put salt on the roads.
I like how I got a Subaru ad right before this played.
Bad design !
There are several heat shields, plenty of airflow, and an oil cooler to keep oil cool. It rarely goes above 100C unless it's hard driving.
@@mikeyp916212°f is warm lol
Love the LS cam bearings comment!😀👍Was that a reference to Rainman Rays teardown by any chance?
Yaaaaay, finally my engine on the channel (not my actual engine, yet). I have a 2016 with 140K, original stock long block, has every mod you can imagine. I bought it brand new in 2015 and has been modded since first pulling it into my driveway. As with any other turbo engine, change and CHECK your oil more often than recommended and it'll serve you well. Also get a tune that suits your location/weather/seasons, the engine runs so much healthier when it's not running the stock tune, modded or not.
Owner of 3 Subarus, one of which has this exact motor in it, and it was great seeing a full FA20 teardown! I'm so glad you showed the intake valves, as I wasn't able to find a reliable source on how bad the carbon can get for a long time. Much LESS worried now having seen this, as we are clearly nowhere near Volkswagen / Mini levels of DI filth.
Ironically it's my H6 Subaru engine that gives me the most grief, though to be fair that IS because it's 30 years old! (Definitely support the H6 recommendation, a shame Subaru stopped making them).
Specific to what Eric found here: the wet plugs is a common phenomenon on FA20s if I understand it correctly. One of my driver side plugs had a similar look to it when I replaced them last year. Seems this unit was the same.
Also this engine was definitely mangled by someone before it got to the stand of shame. Only heard of one type of 3M rollock wheel being approved for use by Subaru, and that was only for removing RTV, not for..."re surfacing" the heads (I'd probably stick with a razor blade anyway, just to be safe).
Would love to see an FA24 teardown once one inevitably ends up in your shop! Curious to see the differences in valvetrain and connecting rods, two areas Subaru supposedly tried to improve after people started finding the limits of the FA20.
PS - Don't let the memes scare you, modern 4 cylinder Subarus are not all time bombs, and any ordinary Subaru that's been well maintained by a normal person should serve you just fine as long as you pay attention and take care of it. You can even find relatively un-ruined 2015+ WRXs easily enough if you dig a little because chasing big power without port injection is prohibitively expensive for a lot of people. Just try and avoid buying someone else's instagram build and you'll likely be fine
I own a 2020 wrx with 55k on it and i love my ol'girl i take care of her but anyway if you want to see tear downs and other knowledge on the FA20 or the FA24 engines 3 of the most knowledable subaru humans on youtube maybe the whole internet check out MotoIQ, Mrsubaru1387 and Smeedia.
I recommend reading the previous owner's comment that is now pinned at the top. He basically did a half assed rebuild himself because he was broke.
You must hate yourself
advice for making the wrx a reliable tuned car?
Thanks Erik, I was waiting for you to do a FA20F. 5:10 - People do remove the diverters if they are deleting the tgv's, otherwise it is bad to take them out if not tgv deleted. 9:10 - There is nothing wrong with a regular drain bolt, people put these Fumoto valves on for absolutely no good reason. 15:20 - That would be an exhaust leak, there was a recall on these for the exhaust manifold nuts loosening for the earlier production years. 17:30 - factory turbo, maybe a re-maned one, wonder how that nut came loose? 30:00 - Oil level sensor was a nice addition to the FA motors that the EJ does not come equipped with. Like that you capitalized on the ease of serviceability that Subaru designed in, pretty rare to see improvements made from previous motor designs when comparing to other manufacturers in today's disposable world. You did miss some opportunities to show the filter screens in the cam carriers and avcs/turbo feed line banjo bolts.
I just love the engineering that goes into these things. I know these engines get a bad rap but I believe it's more the type of people who are into these cars and how young they are and how often they beat on them without maintaining them.
Maybe other people have suggested this and maybe you have done one before but I’d like to see a 2.7 out of the newer silverados/colorados/caddy at4
I have the exact same engine and same model year Subaru. If you modify it( like mine heavily) you MUST have it professionally tuned on a dyno to accommodate the changes. Otherwise they will blow like this one. Maintenance is also imperitive on these, especially turbo models. An IAG air/ oil separator is a must to decrease buildup on intake valves. Then you just pray!! I got 65k on mine and it's smooth as butter
130k miles on my '16, and I'm on e50. Crazy how reliable it can be if you do the right mods and do regular maintenance. It's a good car if you take care of it
This is one reason why I turned down a order for a 2023 GR86. The more I learned about the engines the more I knew that I was biting off more than I could chew when it came to modding. Not to mention the closest well reviewed specialty tuner for Subaru's was nearly 900 miles away.
@suttondavis1929 130k on a modded performance engine isn't impressive in anyway shape or form
2018 WRX here, same story, absolutely no signs of engine trouble after 6 years and nearing 100k kilometers. Only concern I have is corrosion on the copper oil cooler potentially causing a leak in the future, and that's just the great salty north working its magic, not Subaru's fault.
Leave these engines stock, or modify them *slowly* making sure to properly dial in each mod / tune, and they really won't treat you that poorly at all, especially if you have a local Subaru shop who can help you out with the heavy stuff. If you absolutely must, throw an AOS at the carbon buildup problem, but even if you don't (I personally haven't) it REALLY isn't that big of a deal. This engine may look gross to those with port injection, but just look at some of the earlier direct injection Minis, Audis, and Volkswagens and you'll quickly see what REAL carbon buildup looks like. (Hint: it was way worse than what you see here, and probably part of why people fear direct injection to this day)
@@alexpetree2038 Modified turbo subaru engines kick the can far before 100k miles. I wasn't trying to be impressive--I was merely stating how many miles the car has
Edited.
I appreciated the narrative as you did the teardown. Very helpful for this older coot. Thank you!!
Knock knock . Uncle Rodney ? I choose option 3 , someone definitely assembled the engine wrong
bad bad mechanic
The previous owners comment is now pinned at the top. He basically half assed the rebuild because he was pressed for time and was broke.
The way I’ve seen people drive WRX’s there’s no way I’d buy one of them used! I hope you learned a valuable lesson.
Is it possible to see the ecu output at the time of failure? Like rpm and error codes? It would provide a nice picture of why they fail. Like a black box
No
@@TDX3000 the manufacturers can’t see what rpm the motor was for warranty? I just think they can. The data is there.
I know its possible to see freeze frame data at the event certain codes are set.
P69420 - "Generalized Subaru Failure"
Great to see the closeups of the bearing surfaces to know whats "wasted". Thanks for the thorough documentation.
Handywell turbos from Temu are ok if you don’t use them.
Eric, great content. I always enjoy the surprises when you pop parts off and find problems.... I do want to mention (after watching your tools fall apart several times) that they sell the keepers for the ends of extensions/drivers fairly cheap! 😂 Keep up the good work!
As always Eric, a great Saturday night video. Thanks for my entertainment on a rainy Saturday night.
I’m glad to read the owner of the motor story. My neighbor has a blown head gasket , been leaking for months and told them to not drive it in this heat, just came into this video to say, KAABBBOOOMMMM. I’d share my personal story on my 16 gmc Sierra Denali ultimate with the. 5.3. Oil change every 2500 miles, catch can, had the notorious afm lifter failure. It was done. I’ve owned a new 23’ Nissan Armada platinum with the thirsty 5.6, and it has been absolutely amazing. It’s the only Nissan I’d buy
Performance Shop by me gets so many blown WRX’s they keep rebuilt long blocks on the shelf ready to go.
Straight up job security right there!
That's actually a good thing. The average car today have little options available other than buying a new engine or short block because they are not rebuild able and the used salvage engines are too risky.
I have this engine in my Forrester XT, and when I was looking at buying it, I talked to my mechanic about the reliability and the one thing he said was check the oil and check it often.
@9:10 - I had a Fumoto locking ball valve on my old 99 Forester. Made changing oil a toolless prospect. DO NOT take your car to a lube place without first explaining what the valve is. A friend did this and the oil change place did a Fumoto delete on his car because they couldn't figure it out. They also charged him for a new oil drain bolt and crush washer.
I think if you're putting a fumoto on your vehicle you aren't going to a quick lube
I can't believe this engine failed. It had a K and N oil filter.
@@cricketyosh He literally told you his friend did just that.
@@cricketyosh The friend got the valve based on my recommendation. He traveled all over in his vehicle and if it got even 2 miles over a scheduled oil change, he panicked. He had taken it to a quick lube place over a lunch break in Solon Ohio.
@@TechGorilla1987What's the point though? Undoing a drain plug takes seconds, and it looked like the flow out of the ball valve was much lower than out of a regular drain plug.
Just replaced HG on FB25 engine. . Luckily all I had to do was clean the pistons and get the heads surfaced. All the bearings looked good and even with the blown HG the engine ran perfectly. Super quiet no piston slapping. 120k 2011 forester. I had 1 o-ring left from the gasket kit and I did not know where it went. I already glued everything back together but the timing cover. My worst fear was I needed to dismantle everything to put this one o-ring I missed.
After looking all over I fount it was part of a pair and I would have to tear the engine down to replace it. It is the o-ring that sits between both halves of the block. Which I did not split. 😜Thanks for showing how and hopefully the next engine I rebuild does not look like the one you just took apart.
What's amazing is just how BIG that 4 cyl engine is.
Definitely adding to the problems of this engine design.
That is the biggest damn timing cover I've ever seen aide from a Ford Cammer 427.
@@solderbuff it's the only part that's not broken.
About 70lbs heavier than most inline 4’s.
Best water pump gag yet!
It may go against some of your ideals but I would like you to tear down some high mileage running engines, like some toyota and LS with like 500k miles. See what some well cared for engines that are getting toward the end of their useful life and note the difference from the ones who meet a destructive end. Love the content
Man, that is a real Rube Goldberg-looking contraption you've got there! I wonder what the total parts count is for that thing?
I have a 2004 Subaru outback with the H6 (6-cylinder) engine. It's been a rock. Even after 20 years and nearly 200,000 miles.
117k on my full bolt on FA20 running e50 and making 360/350 on an unequal length header and stock turbo, 4 different dyno sessions throughout the modification process. they're good engines if taken care of right. I've had mine going on 7 years and the only issue I've had is a bad OCV which was $50 bucks. I take it to plenty of mexico nights and play when I want to but take care of it and drive normal most of the time. That was the stock turbo btw.
I have found myself checking my oil level more thanks to these videos. My VW was a quart low yesterday. Just think of all the engine lives you have saved.
I love my 3.6 OB so I’m glad you approve of the H6 motors. I keep mine lubed with royal purple just to be on the safe side.
That engine was lovingly gone through by an expert.
An expert, just not in mechanics.
Great Video. My son told me some horror stories about these engines. He had a WRX and thank god he bought warranty and it had to pay for a new motor. When he picked it up went straight to a Mazda dealer and traded it in. Bad design.
It looks like that engine has suffered one or more mechanical insults
I’ll bet you there’s more to the story of this engine than we know
This is my buddies engine, trust me. Holy shit. There's alot
@@connor1285 Must know more!!
I knew it
@@connor1285 well, I mean, that was kind of a given with the extremely obviously counterfeit turbo. Entirely bogus markings everywhere, wrong finish, very obviously the wrong impeller bolt, wrong wastegate actuator, etc., etc., etc.
Eric suggested at 39:44 that the skirt wear on the pistons had a lot to do with the rod offset, the angle. I don’t think this caused the skirt wear. There isn’t any offset, the centre line of the rod shaft still goes through the centre of the crankpin. The piston doesn’t know that the big end is rotated relative to the rod shaft. I think the lower rod bolt has more load than the upper one now, it needs to be strong enough. Would be good to have fracture-split rod caps, I guess.
IanB
You know the teardown is going to be a good one when Mardi Gras oil is used.
Bought my 17 wrx with 50k on it completely stock from an older lady. Car now has 90k oil changes every 3k miles tranny, rear diff and spark plugs every 30k. I have a hand held tuner to eliminate rev hang and monitor fine knock learn and feedback knock as well as other systems to know if somethings going wrong before it’s too late. So far so good. 95° days 85 on the highway oil temps rarely go above 225°. Not a bad car just really gotta take care of them. Still completely stock it’s just more fun to drive than an accord or Camry. Definitely wish I did more research on maintenance before I bought it cuz I’d be fine with a basically maintenance free Camry lol
My stock ‘17 WRX blew off two pieces of the #4 piston skirt at 113,000 miles which then fell into the oil pain ruining the bearings. No I didn’t race it, auto cross it etc it just blew up. As I stated it was stock. I also maintained it diligently trying to avoid a catastrophic engine failure. I’m not a kid either I’m in my 50s. I’ll never buy a Subaru again.
2005 WRX owner here with 140k miles. I think mine has lasted as long as it has even though I have tracked it a few times because I have addressed the flaws those particular models had. From what I have read your generation engines had an issue with uneven cooling of the cylinders. But there is a simple modification that fixes the issue by adding another coolant line to the block. They even make a kit for the fix. Another thing that causes damage to boxer engines is lugging it by being in too tall of a gear when traveling a slow speed. That causes detonation and piston slap.
Me neither, almost same story. Subaru is a joke
Same story but was spun bearing, Subaru is a joke
I’m 44 and own a 24 WRX TR as a daily. Stock except for wheels and some cosmetic stuff. I have coilovers ready for spring just to give it a good stance and smoother ride. I drive normal and do all my own maintenance. Car sees full throttle maybe once a week. I’m still worried it’ll blow up haha. Luckily I can afford to fix it but it’s sad I have no faith in the drivetrain.
I applaud Subaru for the serviceability upgrades. The older versions that you tore down were just bizarre. I work on flat aircraft engines all of the time but they are almost lawnmowerish compared to flat automobile engines!
Probably because, like lawnmowers, the Lycomings and Continentals don't run above 2700RPM. Don't need high tech for that speed range.
The Subaru engine was originally an aircraft engine wasnt it? The early ones were pretty simple
@@stephenw2992
I don't know for sure but the old Subarus I worked on the engines seemed too heavy and underpowered for aircraft use. I think there is an experimental engine based on the newer engines, though. I think it's called a Jabiru.
Eric, when you had discovered a piece of compression ring. Not only was that funny. Based on how they “resurface the head” . Along with multiple bolts being clearly loose.
I found it funny when you mentioned at the end when you said when you were talking about the split block being any good. “if anybody would rebuild these engines“.
Clearly, somebody made a very poor attempt and you see the results.LOL
The disptick did not even put up a good fight this time.
Good water pump skit there 😂
My fa20 wrx has been 430/350 most of its life. Now sitting at 93k miles. No engine issues.
@20:28 - Well timed and well placed circumcision joke right there. Very nice.
Watching you tear that engine
down I've decided that a long time ago Subaru got a tiger by the tail and never figured out how to let go! Massive parts (front engine cover) heavy expensive to manufacture loosing all around
I was watching on TV booted up my phone so i could comment!!
17:30 The sign says the turbo is made in Wuhan. That's right, that famous place !
Wow, everything that comes out of that place just sucks.
That turbo caught it
Quick quarantine the engine!
Wuhan stands out as the filthiest s*** hole I have ever visited.
CHINA TURBO!
16 WRX owned since new. Oil change religiously every 3500. Modded and tuned properly, 300hp, 350trq at the wheels. Warm up procedure meant it never saw boost or high rpm until at operating temp for 2 minutes. Drove it 120k miles and not so much as a seep of oil anywhere. Hummed along beautifully. I had to trade it in for an automatic Camry to help my brother out. But the only thing that went wrong on that car was the clutch
At what mileage you had to replace the clutch?
Hello from Texas. Love the videos
Extended oil change intervals and use of non-synthetic oil may be cause of many of these subaru issues. I noticed on my EJ253 motor that if I tried to extend the oil change interval beyond the severe service interval the oil would always be down a quart. Seemed like the oil was thinned out and started to be used quickly after about 3000 miles of use. Little oil use up to 3000, lots of oil use after 3000.
Saw the same. If changed at 3000 miles, no oil use. Over 3000 it seemed like the oil had thinned out and might drop quickly.
Here are a couple engines you should tear down just for fun.
GM 1.5L Turbo 4 (LYX)
Ford Godzilla 7.3L V8
Chrysler 2.4L Tigersharl MultiAir I4
Toyota A25A-FXS (Camry or RAV4 hybrid)
Chrysler Pentastar 3.2L V6
Definitely the Tigershark. That thing is JUNK!
ViseGrip makes a special model (the Locking Wrench) just for removing rounded bolts. It has a V-shaped jaw. I don't use it often, but when you need it's a godsend.
We have a GM 2.7 4 cylinder out of a 22 Silverado 1500. Really want to see what’s in it, but the $1200 core charge is stopping me.
I knew what you meant when yo usaid "worstly" - You still have the bestly channel on teardowns.
I really thought the water pump was going to go through the rear window of the car.
I have a 2019 WRX with this engine and it's given me 49K completely trouble free miles. It gets driven aggressively but not abused and I'm obsessively meticulous about oil changes and I check it regularly. It's never used a drop thankfully. I'm definitely aware of the pitfalls of this engine if it's not maintained.
There is a tech on the line at Subaru Mr. Stripymoto San who makes sure bolts come rounded from the factory.
🤣
🤣
I totally agree about the 6 cylinder being the better engine. I have a 2010 3.6R Legacy with 130,000 on it and it runs sweet. It has get up and go and runs silent. It did use oil but at 100,000 I used Liqui Moly engine flush, changed the oil twice after using it and oil consumption dropped drastically. Personally I think the XA type oil ring expander gets cruded and stops the oil rails from rotating.I believe that allows oil to flow freely to the second ring and crudes that up. Vertical based cylinders at least have a better chance of shedding oil secondary to gravity...Subaru engines do not have that luxury.
I bought a 2019 3.6R just because it was the last year for the 6 cylinders. Didn't really need the car but what the hell. It sat in the garage for 3 years and now has 20,000 miles on it. It runs great but that CVT transmission blows IMO. I'll be making sure that is dealer serviced at 30,000 and every 30,000 after that.
I have to say the 2019 is a nice car for a Subaru.....great ride, handles well and the engine runs like a Swiss watch.
When I worked at a garbage dump, the policy was if you were the first person to operate a vehicle for the day, you were REQUIRED to check oil, water and air pressure in tires. Then, whenever you got in a vehicle before you moved it, you checked the oil. Our equipment never failed.
I've had two modded WRXes and never had a single problem with either (both bought new). Both have had a lot of power. First was a 2008 that I put the 200 turbo on, bigger intercooler, full exhaust, tune, etc. I ran that car for 60k miles and the stock clutch was still fine when I got rid of it. But I never launched it, and always drove it as genty as one can while enjoying the power. Next is my new 2024. It makes even more power. The FA24 is a helluva good motor design compared to the FA20 before it (much stronger overall design). The issue on these cars is that if it's not an STI, the transmission is only good to about 450 whp, after which you are going to blow your clutch and your transmission. So I'm shooting for about 400-420 whp and will drive it respecftully just as I did the 2008. IF I do blow the tranny, then it'll get an STI swap and I'll shoot for the moon. FWIW, the FA20's have a reputation for throwing rods around 80k. And the best advice I was ever given was: NEVER buy a used WRX (or STI).
As a Toyota Master Tech, ive done enough of the Scion FRS/Toyota 86 they are the FA20 Non-Turbo, They all do this. They all blow up. THEY ARE JUNK!
Hope my EJ22E doesn't blow up like that! 101k and going strong! Eric you should try finding an EJ22E like what's in my 98 legacy. Perhaps the best Subaru engine ever made blowing head gaskets VERY rarely unlike the ej20 or ej25.
EJ22 is proven many times to be the best EJ in terms of reliability and longevity ratio.
@@suzumr2754 yeah, it's a shame it was only made from 1989-2001. Subaru should have kept making it possibly even today. It might even be more reliable than the FA engines.
@@BrainyThyme3869 yeah but with the current emission standards, it would suffer the same fate as the old school diesels that are praised for their durability and redundancy, only to be crippled by inferior and overly complex emissions devices.
I must have a unicorn. 120k miles so far and it’s been happy.
I guess you never hit 60. Good for you. Speed kills and ruins Subarus.
@@xXturbo86Xxbold of you to assume you know anything about how I drive.
👃👈
You are always interesting and I learn good information. THANKS! That engine is too complex for anyone not familiar with the brand. Congrats on that long distance water pump toss.
"someone has been here" is an understatement. love this engine - great video!
i have my 2019 wrx completely stock. bought it with 49K miles on it. runs smooth and no issues with it (Crosses fingers) i plan on getting rid of it before it 75K miles on it. im at 63K now,
i dont trust this thing past 80K plus the value of the car just tanks at these millages anyway. plus the torque dip on the fa20 is horrid.
That water pump looks like a snail. That's the word you were looking for. 😉
D & B
The type of snail is a Chambered Nautilus, Nautilus Pompilius
The H6 isn't as plentiful as the boxer engines and is not nearly as abused. That being said, they can and do blow up, leak oil, and all the other Subaru goodies. The front cover ( to block ) is very, VERY fun to reseal.
To me, having the number of cams equal to the number of cylinders suggests unnecessary complexity. Plus that just seems like a really large engine for a 2.0.
I’d be interested to see a K24 on the channel, especially one that has seen some mods or one of the DI ones. I’m sure at least a few have gotten blown up.
dohc is why the boxer is almost gone. they were more competitive in the past with a single cam. on the upside though, there's not as much cam twist like in a 6 or 8 cylinder. not as many blown head gaskets due to the short head not expanding and contracting as much.
I had a 2020 WRX limited for a few years, I wanted more punishment in the fuel expenses department so I have a 2018 STI now. The turbo is reasonably protected if the factory shields on the body are left in place. That still doesn't make it a great placement though, overall heat concentration, oil roasting, and water from the road were my concerns.
The positioning of the turbo puts almost directly behind the bottom of the sturdy-ish radiator support and there is a pretty thick metal bottom shield panel that would help push the object on the road down rather than something smoking the turbo right away. The turbo would survive most road debris like a medium sized piece of a tire or smaller sticks, but would definitely get wasted by something like an entire wheel or maybe a tree limb of about forearm thickness.
Also, that oil drain is from Fumoto. They are handy if you get the one with a hose barb, I can put my used oil back into the previous jug, it makes changes in an apartment parking lot hella easy and much cleaner. If the Fumoto is installed properly it, a) has the opening lever "on the top" so doesn't snag on anything from below b) is situated so that the lever has to actually be turned forward toward the front of the car to be opened c) has it's lever locking clip still available. I've had one on my STI for 10k miles and it's been great.
Eric...now I know why they blow up! Nobody wants to tackle an oil change on that thing!
FA oil change is one of the easiest I’ve ever done. Drain is relatively easy to get to and the oil filter location is the gold standard.
@@Thatdavemarsh
Yeah Dave, I spoke way to soon on that one: I saw the brass plug a little later on! It was the bottomside turbo that threw me! I didn't like the fact that Eric was trashing Subaru. If the engines fail in those cars: is that people don't take care, and do the maintenance on them like they're suppose to!
I have a very high opinion of those cars!
My 169k mile 2015 wrx limited is still going strong, fortunately lol. Got it cheap for 12.5 only because it has the cvt, which is surprisingly amazing. I'm seriously thinking about doing a complete rebuild on it before anything catostophic happens lol.
Yes, you can’t blame it on head gaskets anymore now it’s just front cover leaks….
Improper modifications, improper maintenance.
Abuse.
These are the main causes of Subaru engine failure.
I have seen WRX's with 300, 000 miles.
@@fubartotale3389 We have Legacy GT 2010 with 320000 Km...
It is difficult to determine if that piece of compression ring that you found actually came from this engine. You cold lay the piece of ring in the bore and see if the ring makes total contact with the bore. As far as removing pistons goes. I have found that using a piece of NMT (non metallic tubing) AKA plastic conduit, works wonders. It comes in 10 foot lengths and is easily cut with a hacksaw or any type of power saw. The 1/2 or 3/4 inch NMT works for 90% of the engines that you work on. Being plastic, it will cause no harm to the piston/rod assembly, nor the bore or block of the engine being disassembled. It is flexible enough to bend slightly so that you can maneuver it however it is necessary to remove the offending part. A small length of 2x4 serves as a hammer to tap the NMT to remove the piston and rod. Best of all, it is unaffected by grease/gas and oil AND is cheap to buy. For large diesel engines you may need a length of 1 inch NMT.
What gloves do you use? I know I'm not the only one who would like to know brand of gloves those greeen gloves are.
Yeah they look hefty
I've seen a lot of your video's and enjoy the process of tearing it apart but one question you through away many many good parts that could be reused & sold for good money instead of getting pennies for them i can see you probably make good money off these video's with many people seeing them and i really enjoy them im a subscriber and seeing you through good parts in a trash can i don't enjoy that part of your video's i hate to see good thing's go to waist...
I know you're in touch with Rainman. Could you please let him know that he's gonna get an infection if he keeps going back to front on teardowns?
I have a 2007 Civic Si with 195k miles. I’m pretty sure there are some out there with more miles but i beat on her. Only thing wrong with it is it has a worn down main input shaft due to a bad throw out bearing but it’s still runs good. Honda FTW. Slow but reliable.
My wife owns a Subaru Outback. I'm gonna rip the engine out right now and set it by the street. Thanks for the heads up.
😂
Headache saved
Good call, btw quickly swap in a Studebaker 6-Cylinder Flathead in its place - she wont know the difference.
I feel sorry for you owning one of those pieces of sht subarus.
Why would you do that? Did you try to modify it not knowing what you are doing or don't change her oil and do proper maintenance like a vehicle should get done? If not you're comment makes no sense.