I got it in the late 80's used.... 6 channel FM ch28... still have receivers for it too... I can get a modern module for it. I sort of miss having a long antenna with a frequency flag on it as a wind direction indicator.
@@soarkraft Do flying fields even have a freq board? Not like you'd have to concern yourself with being shot down. 🙂 I only got rid of that old Futaba when I moved cross country and had to thin down my RC collection. There's something to be said about old analogue.
Nice tips, thanks for sharing. Today my first printer is arriving, the sidewinder x2, your video was very helpful to help me decide. Hope to start printing my planes soon, you will have some of your designs flying in Italy.
Awesome tips! I’m a newby with a new Prusa MKs3+, and I’m learning that Cura is the slicer that the Plane Print models are designed for. I watched your video on using Prusa slicer for model aircraft, nd was curious if i could use Prusa Slicer for my Plane Print model. Any tips will be much appreciated!
Can you make the test print available with settings for the slicers for download to test how well printer can make thin wall parts before buying the plane files.
@@soarkraft i think I overlooked that when printing my Pika, came out a little rough and flimsy at times, i also printed all wing panels at once i'm covering it with fiberglass right now
There are setting for "combing mode" that can be enabled to help with this... the different slicers have different ways of turning this on. The funny thing is Planeprint model are suppose to print in only Cura ... but the different versions keep changing how it works... thats what happens when you design to a specific software that you don't have control over.
I love that Futaba Tx you had in the background, I had one of those for a long time.
I got it in the late 80's used.... 6 channel FM ch28... still have receivers for it too... I can get a modern module for it. I sort of miss having a long antenna with a frequency flag on it as a wind direction indicator.
@@soarkraft Do flying fields even have a freq board? Not like you'd have to concern yourself with being shot down. 🙂 I only got rid of that old Futaba when I moved cross country and had to thin down my RC collection.
There's something to be said about old analogue.
Good advice Wayne, keep it coming !
Thanks, will do!
Printed several planes with LW=PLA using the blue tape for better bed adhesion
HI wayne the last part of your video (min 10.30), is dedicated to me without a doubt! ;) 🤣
yes, but you are not the only one... congratulations on your first flight and thanks for sharing your video
Nice tips, thanks for sharing. Today my first printer is arriving, the sidewinder x2, your video was very helpful to help me decide. Hope to start printing my planes soon, you will have some of your designs flying in Italy.
Glad it was helpful! The X2 is a nice printer for the price... I have three
Really cool!
Awesome tips! I’m a newby with a new Prusa MKs3+, and I’m learning that Cura is the slicer that the Plane Print models are designed for. I watched your video on using Prusa slicer for model aircraft, nd was curious if i could use Prusa Slicer for my Plane Print model. Any tips will be much appreciated!
Can you make the test print available with settings for the slicers for download to test how well printer can make thin wall parts before buying the plane files.
Its on the website - soarkraft.com/pages/how-to-and-settings
do you print the outside line first?
yes, or try to. Cura 4.11, 4.12, 4.13 does this the best. Makes for nice "skins".
@@soarkraft i think I overlooked that when printing my Pika, came out a little rough and flimsy at times, i also printed all wing panels at once
i'm covering it with fiberglass right now
Mint
The major problem I have with printing Planeprint models is stringing ! More I increase retraction distance, more I have stringing ! Unbelievable !
There are setting for "combing mode" that can be enabled to help with this... the different slicers have different ways of turning this on. The funny thing is Planeprint model are suppose to print in only Cura ... but the different versions keep changing how it works... thats what happens when you design to a specific software that you don't have control over.
@@soarkraft You're right, I obtain better results using S3D !
'promosm' 😄