Is A 3D Printer under $200 Worth Buying??? for Printing RC Airplanes - SoarKraft
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ย. 2024
- Is it worth buying a printer under $200 for printing RC airplanes?
Hey everyone, thanks for watching, please like and subscribe.
Models in this video available at soarkraft.com/
This video is about 3D printers available that can print RC airplanes. There are many available, but it is good to choose one that you can work with everyday and is not a hassle. Is it possible to get one that can do this for under $200?
SoarKraft designs and sells files of high performance radio controlled gliders that can be 3D printed with one of these available printers. These still need to be assembled and require additional parts, but are fun to fly and a great way to learn 3D printing and engineering principals of aeronautics and airplane structures.
The model shown in this video are available at SoarKraft.com
Please help support this channel by purchasing file set.
Also the printer shown in this video are available from many places, but purchasing by clicking on the following links help this channel too. This video is not a paid promotion, but the option of the SoarKraft, so these printer evaluations are based on experience and use. These are not the only printers available, use whatever printer you want... this is about learning, sharing and having fun.
Best small printer - Voxelab Aquila-S2 - amzn.to/3tGSw9s
Best overall printer - Artillery Sidewinder X2 - amzn.to/3ApybJI
If you can get it cheap/used/free .... decent printer, but you will want to upgrade it
Basic - Creality Ender3 - amzn.to/3Aluogn
However to get the best deal go to the Voxelab website
www.voxelab3dp...
We also talk about:
Klipper Firmware - www.klipper3d....
Thank you for supporting this channel
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#rcairplane - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Love your channel ❤
Glad you enjoy it! More coming
Thanks for update on Voxelab
I've been using the Ender 3 pro for about a month now, since I've started with the 3D printing journey, basically. It was, for me, in my honest opinion, the best choice. Like you said; You don't get the full experience right out of the box. It does teach you the basics though and, like you also said, you get to upgrade it over a course of time, so you get to know what happens to Y when you change X. There is also a huge community behind it that really helped me, not only with the Ender 3 specifically, but everything else that comes with 3D printing in general. Like using Cura and Fusion360. If you expect the perfect out-of-the-box experience, the Ender 3 is definitely not that. So if you don't like the 3D printing part and the learning curve that comes with that, but just what comes out of it, you might want to consider reaching deeper into your pocket.
That why I liked the well optioned Voxelab S2... most of the features of an Ender 3 s1 for the basic price. The Ender 3 is a great hobby printer if 3D printer building is your hobby... not if you want it for supporting a different hobby like making RC airplanes.
I do appreciate you running stuff on an Ender 3 since they are ubiquitous. I have one myself and everything you said about it is true too. I have about $220 into mine (bought it on sale, motherboard on sale too)
I figure if I can get my files to print on an Ender3 basic and get them to fly awesome, any printer (big enough) will work.
Good daily driver printer I would just go and say is any bambu labs machine, as they are basically the apple of 3d printers, though I've never owned one, as I'm more of a qidi fanboy myself.
yep, this was from 2 years ago. I now have a Bambu X1C and an A1.
yes , yes it is. my new ender3 was 60 and my new anycubic mono 4k was 30 before shipping.
I bought an Ender 3 Pro at Microcenter for $99 with a coupon, and used it to print a SoarKraft Pika using Polylite LW PLA.
TLDR; Don't get the Ender 3 V2, get the Aquila S2.
I bought an Ender 3 V2 on sale (December 2022). It was $240 USD back then. It didn't came with the flexible PEI bed, so I had to get one from amazon for $30 USD. I also had to replace the fans because after just one print, they started to make a lot of noise ($16 USD at amazon). Total expenses; $286 USD.
The Aquila S2 is around $270 USD. If your only 2 options are either the Ender 3 V2 or the Aquila S2, buy the Aquila S2.
Aquila S2 = Ender 3 V2 + Direct Drive Extruder + flexible PEI bed + Hotter nozzle + Hotter Bed + More legible display + Reliable fans + Quieter fans
you can get a use Ender 3 for $80... still need to put ~ $200 into it to match what I would consider an easy to use, quiet, and capable printer and all the effort. Sort of why I got the Aquila S2 for my son... its almost ~ an Ender 3 S1 (which is $399 ish) for $189
Ender 3 v3 se is out now so get that it can do everything for under 200
Sure... but it is a Creality. Hopefully they have finally made an Ender3 that does not need to be modified right out of the box to work.
Their design / manufacturing / quality is very low end, this has not improved. I have had several Creality machines and I will not buy another. The Sidewinder X1 is knock off the CR10... but is so much better. Same with the Voxelab. I have a CR10Max... sure it can print big stuff... slowly, and even then you have to watch it like a hauk to make sure it does not fail. The Ender5 was a huge disappointment... way over inflated performance advertised. The the K1... O'my... did they not think to test it.
@@soarkraft I have had the same experience with my ender 3 but the the extruder was the only thing that caused regular prints to fail and the e3v32se Is such an improvement
i want to buy also one for my son (12y), he also fly rc planes.
He is very sensitive to fumes, microparticles, allergens....
Do you take any precautions about micro particles in the area used to print?
tks
If you are worried about fumes / smells / microparticles then get an enclosed printer with a carbon filter. There are serveral available and becoming more reasonable price. This video was from 2 years ago and much has changed.
@@soarkraft ok but i have read the with pla you beed to leave the door or the top hatch open , so the point of the filter is lost.
Also, have you tried printing on kapton tape? I was gifted some and it works much better for me than the blue masking tape, only run PETG and PLA on it so far
Yep, have used kapton in the past (Markerbot dual)... not as easy to get and pricy, but does work. I will have to try a print or two with it again, I think I have some around. I like the blue tape because it is very predictable...
Very interesting ! I have an Ender 3 upgraded with a Duet2wifi, AIOEVO Hotend (300° capable) and a MiniXtruder direct Drive... And it works fine.
Just a problem is stringing, I tried to print Planeprint models and don't understand how they can print PLA at 230° with tool fan off and at 60mm/s...
I had to lower speed to 40mm/s, fan 100% and 200° nozzle temperature to obtain smooth surfaces... But still few hairs, especially inside prints... Wich PLA do you recommand for your planes, at wich temperature ?
I use 210 for regular PLA and 220 for PLA+. Low fan speed is a good idea for these thin wall structures, 25%, keeps the semi-cystaline nature of PLA in the "semi" range - less brittle - and better layer adhesion.
sorry for the question, I didn't understand, I want to print pla lw... with sidewinder x2 can I reach the temperatures for the foam? or do I have to buy another extruder? I understand that Aquila can print S2 260 °C... but it has classic print dimensions... maybe better to dedicate to our hobby?
The sidewinder can print the regular foaming lw-pla just fine (250). So can the S2. The new high temperature lw-pla is close to the limits of what the sidewinder can do (280-285) but can probably do it.
👍👍👍👍
Why, in this day and age... a PROPRIETARY nozzle????? I would give that a pass just on the amount of dumb involved. But I do have two Artillery printers, X1 and X2. :)
Yes, don't like that part... however I have bought many tips for my Sidewinder, lots of different sizes and hardened tips and such. I tried all kinds of carbon filled materials and exotic materials, different nozzle sizes... they are fun to play with, but I have yet to find a material that is worth the hassle of a special tip... I usually come back to the same .40 brass nozzle.
Now the TPU and the HT-LW-PLA need a direct drive and higher temp to work well... but a .40 brass nozzle works fine.
@@soarkraft Yep, I agree. However nozzles eventually clog, at least mine always have at some point. I still have three of my printers running daily and all have experienced a clog at some point. Plus, I print a LOT of white PLA and PETG. I was surprised to learn that white filaments are quite abrasive due to the Titanium White pigments used. I get nozzles in batches of 20 from the ChiCom child labor camps where everyone's tech comes from, cheap. When one even thinks about going off, I just unscrew it and toss it. They are disposable.