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Not hi enough, the Juicy is meant for strong wind days on the slope, and the toe hook add on does not fit the juicy. There is a carbon rod that runs the full length on the bottom of the fuselage.

This LW stuff foams and expands, so yes different properties. I have not tried the PLA-HT, but this usually happens with regular PLA when the chamber temperature is too high…. And many other variables…

The X1C and P1S have a charcoal filter for smells, but the LW-PLA and LW-PLA-HT don’t smell that bad. The ASA, ABS and LW-ASA smell terrible with an open printer, there are others. The X1C and P1S fix most of that, but the LW-ASA I moved into the garage when I was fighting with that… the wife did not like it.

??? I fly the plane, no gyro. This does not have a flight controller or any other flying aides.

@soarkraft So many rx have it now i just assumed. I learned on a gentle lady on an AM rx tx.

What layer height and material did you use? A smaller layer height with give finer detail. Different materials and manufactures do support better. I used Overture PLA Pro and Creality Hyper PLA for my tests. My blades had a rough leading edge, but while balancing them I cleaned them up a little, knife and sandpaper... they were not perfect... performed fine at 10,000 rpm... these are not high rpm props. Also there are all kinds of youtube videos on improving supports and part quality, you don't have to follow "airplane" settings to print this blade.

​@@soarkraftI printed with microcenter PETG. I tried both the tree and classic supports. Layer height both. 2 and .15 mm. The support interface is the problem. Thanks for your reply. Your videos are excellent.

@@DavidCousins So PETG is much harder to do supports. Try PLA+ / PLA Pro.

So if you got that much more, you were ether spinning it way faster than I did, or using a larger dia / pitch... did you use a folding prop for comparison or a standard prop?. I was comparing a cheap plastic folding prop to this 3D printed prop. A better molded prop might be stiffer than the material you printed with and as the forces increase the blade twists reducing thrust. The thingiverse prop is also pretty basic and a better performance blade design would help too, ie DUP, Falcon or Aeronaut... which you could put on a printed hub... but still keep the rpms down for safety.

@@soarkraft I used a commericially avaialable carbon nylon prop (not folding). it is way stiffer and durable than the pla one i printed. i think i used the same dia prop for both (been a few years memory is a bit foggy). Looking back my tests probably were'nt accurate enough cause in a folding one the hub doesnt contibute to lift and also it had an angle to it that probably wasted some thrust force radially. The printed ones helped me save money though because all the initial test of the fixed wing i was working on crashed badly. And now you have shown how good they can be if properly done.

Glad I could help

Yes, unless something has changed the X1C and the P1S process and filament configurations are interchangeable.

For the PLAs I use the smooth PEI or Cool Plate, both with a little glue stick. The textured PEI plate needs too much temperature to stick dry, and adding something to help, like glues stick, can be inconsistent or stick too much. The textured for gluing parts together has not been a problem, even with thin CA… but depends on the spot.

Yes, on the website materials page about halfway down - Pre-foamed v1

The t-motors shafts are short and the mounting is not consistent, but doing a version for the Surpass motor was very easy. I am working on adapting it for a 2207 and F80 size t-Motors. I will add a hub version for them in the future. I may send you some files to try if you want.

I agree with you, is there a forum with the title `Are 3D print props safe`?

So I agree completely, why risk this part, and that is why it took me so long to try this. Watch the destructive testing… 19,000 rpm.. that’s better than many of the aluminum hub Chinese folding props… which I have broken too… and in the same spot. The power system I am using is only 100 Watts and the ESCs limit the rpm so much I’m not worried about it spinning too fast.

@@soarkraft Fair points, it might be fine at low power, and we all have a different tolerance for risk. If you can print glass or carbon filled nylon, that might be a way to reduce risk of failure too.

For what it’s worth, I have printed and flown two different sizes of this prop design, with zero failures. It seems unlikely to work, but it does!

I have not, interesting, I will have to try it. I have the material, the A1 is idle at the moment and does TPU well. I do usually count on the nose cone as the “crumple zone” to protect the radio tray from damage… so this might not be a good use for me… I crash a lot and fly in places with very unforgiving landing areas, big rocks.

@soarkraft if you put an egg in a pla nose cone and a tpu one with a lawn dart tail I'd be backing the tpu to win but maybe I have it wrong , it's what makes it interesting for sure

Yep, "silent mode" that's what I did in the video for the foaming materials to make it a little better... it reduces the accelerations/speed, but only increases time by a couple of minutes. The A1 does slice differently in Bambu and Orca than the X1 and P1... slight variations... but different.

The K2 is a new product from Creality - so early adopter? Absolutely No. I would not buy a new product from them, especially for that money... I would give it several months and let all the other youtubers find the problems.... if it is good then maybe in June. I have several Creality machines.... uhg... examples of reasons to wait: CR5 and the K1... over time they got better... but not a good start. The K2 is also big, huge, but not that much bigger print volume... I only occasionally need something bigger than 256^3, and never for airplanes. My CR10 Max - has been dormant for years. Even my 300 x 300 x 450 Sidewinders rarely used more than half there print volume over there 5 years in my farm. The Bambu printers are not perfect, but even after 2 years they are still one of the best. I love my P1S for airplane parts... though I love my X1C just a little bit more for work projects.

​@@soarkraftAfter 8 years tinkering my Ender 3... Creality never again !!! 😱

@@vincentrichard2703 Me Too, My BamBoo A1 on the bk Friday sale came in Tuesday and it is the equivalent of life changing if you 3d print often...Only a dozen prints so far and this morning I caught myself sending something to print and I didnt even walk into the other room to watch it start, all is fine. Crazy...

​@@floridasaltlifemy P1S came on Tuesday too, and I already launch the prints with no doubt on the result !

Awesome, that why I did it.

Look up ColorFabb LW-PLA or Bambu AERO, it is a filament that foams as it heats in the nozzle, changing the density and making it lighter. The parts are also mostly hollow, with oriented structure to print well but also hold the shape. Printing flat or xy makes large unsupported top surfaces of the airfoil… not good for printing… stand on end and the airfoil shape is almost perfect.

Like going from a flip phone to an iPhone…. And the P1S is probably the best buy for most. I use my X1C daily for work and planes, the extra “luxury” it has is useful but not necessary, paid for itself in productivity and quality quickly. Prints right the first time, and 5x as fast as my Sidewinders… which I had 3 to keep up with work.

​​​@@soarkraft 3 days with my P1S, just amazing ! After a filament calibration made with Bambu Studio, so easy and effective, my prints are just perfect ! Just a problem : what can I do with my Ender 3 ??? 🤣 Sell it for 50€... Or find how to reuse components... Well, just one flaw : it is very noisy 😱 The price of speed...

You will have to let us know how well it works. I don't like buying brand new products and $399 is not too far off from a P1P. ... Flashforge might be different, I did like my Voxelab printer (flashforge bargain brand) but it was a clone of a clone of a clone. Hopefully your ad5x better than the new Creality stuff from the last year.

@soarkraft i didn't buy it (yet?) 🫠 the k2 plus is actually very good and bambu has tpu for ams now so there are many options and the ams can be modified to work with normal tpu, too

That price is killer for Core XY and Multi Material though 220mm cubed build volume plus they don't ship here to Hawaii kills it for me.

@@wk5199 that's true, the price is great. 100 to 150 more than just an ams/cfs but you get a whole printer. 220 does seem a bit small, yes. but many designs still use that as the lowest common denominator. i have a 400³ bed slinger, and the height has come in handy a few times, but for wings it's not really practical to go that tall. it does start to wobble real bad. 220 gives a comfortable 300mm diagonal. i doubt many designs have a chord larger than that. for better materials a chamber heater is awesome, none of the bambus do that, right? sadly the ad5x isn't even enclosed.

You will forget about the Ender3 quickly accept for the pain and suffering it put you through. The P1S is so much better and close to the capabilities of the X1 you will not be disappointed…

​@@soarkraftsuffering and fixing stuff is the best part, it gives you something to tinker and learn about how machines work and what makes them tick

funny.... no, my hobby is rc gliders not 3D printer maintenance / tinkering though I know how to do it. I have never had to built laserjet printer (for paper), and im fine with that too.

​@@Stojce_ ​​​​My hobby is RC gliders and I wasted too much time tinkering my Ender 3... Not funny, just frustrating ! P1S will arrive on Monday 😋 A new Roughgen will fly soon !

If they have it would be on youtube... do a search. Scale models, yes, fly-able models probably not. Resin printing works well for small precise stuff, though it has been maturing. For work projects I have used resin printers, and the parts always needs additional light box time, cleaning and bubbles were a pain... messy.... but you can get pretty fine detail. The resin also changes over time (like it dries out) and parts three or four weeks old were really brittle even with a clear coat. The polyjet machines do a better job, but still.... and the cost to get an industrial machine to print a plane would be $$$$$. FDM printing works really well for this.

@@soarkraft Well, I have both now. Bought an A1 Bambu and Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra.

It’s a good printer and can print nice quality parts fast, especially with PLA. I was also surprised at how well it prints TPU.

@@soarkraft This is great news! I ended up ordering direct as local could only get the combo. I have zero reason to print multicolor. Everything will be primed and hand finished.

I only make money from files, I don't make anything from filaments. I just like trying new materials and showing how well my files work with them.

do you mean the no-foaming PLA-HT (now called PLA-HP)? I love the idea of CF materials, but they have never been worth the effort and cost.. I will have to look at PP-CF. I don't think you can get PP-CF to a .6g/cm^3 density... best I could find was 1.0g/cm^3.

@@soarkraft the foaming HT foams less than the non HT. To achieve the same volume you need more flow compared to normal active foaming, in my experience, .15 more. The pp cf spool is 750g. My LW foaming pla natural at .5 flow rate produces a given plane at 86 grams, the same plane from pp cf, 115g, HT would be about 98-100g - i'll take the half ounce for significantly improved durability

do you mean fit? Yes, a 28mm diameter motor will fit. And yes a 4S lipo will fit too. As you increase speed and desire to pull hard turns the material and design need to match. The LW foaming materials are great for sub 80 mph, but will need more stiffness for higher speeds... The Juicy wing, that will fit this fuselage, has been recorded at 187mph (300kph) doing dynamic soaring printed from PLA and hope to go faster.

@@soarkraft thanks for your asking. Have you got some customers tried the 6s setup ?

I have a couple I'm considering, but it has been a huge distraction from what I want to work on.

on the list, but have lots of distractions... 1.6M coming soon

been thinking about doing this. Skids on the wings.

Depends on what you are printing it with, I use Orca Slicer and a Bambu X1C and have to reduce the flow ratio to .92 to get the proper weight of 67% of regular PLA. Cura and a sidewinder did not have this problem, but Cura is terrible and the sidewinder is too slow.

@@soarkraft thanks, will try

This plane design has done 187mph, and will hopefully do 200