Liked the disassembling process on this rebuild better than previous ones that were fast action. This gives a better idea of where every thing goes. Also the close-up of the idle speed and idle jet adjustments at the end and the explanation of how to listen for the right adjustments. Great content as always.
I had to leave my throttle shaft alone this time around, someone prior to me stripped out the throttle screw and I don't want to mess around with it. I managed to get the little brass tube out as well even though someone prior mangled that as well. It's all cleaned and I will be putting it back together or Sunday. I will be sure to use this video to help. Thank you for making this how to.
Rachel, can I very politely help? I am an expert on rebuilding Farmall carburetors (and BTW, I have purchased your H kits and they are very good. Viewers should buy and use them.). First, this is a great video. You do a nice job and you are very enjoyable to watch. NIce work Rachel! But, will you allow me to clear up a few points on this video? Yes, do not break off the idle jet. You are so correct on that! If you do, a special size drill and tap is needed. Its not something an average person would have. Then, please replace both the drip filter (its felt and it was in the kit) as well as the felt choke shaft dust seal (that was also in the kit along with the brass retainer). Its essential that both of those get changed so dust does not enter the carburetor. That then brings us up the the graphite load needle packing gland. You did not remove the old one. It can be seen at 9:39. Trust me, sand blasting will not remove the old packing! They have to be picked out (or drilled out if you are incredible careful). Old packing glands are tough and do not come out easily! Because the old packing was still in, you could not get the threads on the packing nut started at 10:15 (oh yeah, another tip; don't strip those threads on the carburetor or a really special tap is needed!). Finally, at 20:00, it can be seen that the load needle is nowhere close to in properly. In fact, it looks like you built up a bunch of sealer around the brass packing nut. Please take that packing nut out and reach in with a pick and dig that old packing gland out. You can do that with the carb on the tractor (hey, the carb is already out of gas, ha ha). But, you should take the bottom bowl back off so you can replace the felt filters listed above.
Are you able to get straight brass needles without the rubber tip? They don't fare well with the new crappy ethanol gasoline that we have to buy here. We end up pulling apart old carburetors and using old needles and seats as we had too much trouble with the rubber tipped ones. The old ones work better.
@@tyfrank3427 Not that I am aware of. I too save the old steel needle and seats. I don't re-use them, but I save them as a matched set nevertheless. I believe the problem is in how crudely the seat is made. I believe that after the hole is drilled, another machining operation is needed to refine the seat. Just my "experienced" opinion however.
@@kuhlmaja Many shops have them. As I sit here, I can think of two. Mark's carb in Rice, Minnesota. McDonald carburetor in Commerce, Georgia. Other people will know of even more places.
Really enjoy your videos ?4U have u ever come across a 414 international carburetor making ice on outside of carb enough that throttle won't move and tractor quits
That tube that sticks up that you mentioned to be careful not to break. Someone prior to me broke it. Where do I find that tube? Do I really need it? Obviously the tractor ran.
I do enjoy watching your videos. At the end of your videos. You ask people to go to your website to order carb kits. When I went there I could not find a kit for my farmall model A. Please help me.
I believe there may have been a mistake in regards to the butterfly valve on the choke. The direction the arrow should be facing is downwards, rather than upwards
Hello 👋 I’ve got a Fordson superdexta 2000 with out a working three point hitch . I was wondering if you have worked on one or if you might know we’re I should look. Nothing on TH-cam that I can find.
hey guys just got my first m fbk 23789.confused on the year.number doesn 't appear any where i search.can you recommend fuel,oil and it has a 12 volt battery in it but appears to be 6 volt system.thank you scott in mooresville nc
I’m looking for information for my father in law who rebuilds mags. He is looking for information on how to time a Fairbanks Morris Z6 B16 for a 6 cylinder continental engine. If you don’t know where should I start looking. Thanks
I came to watch to see if your kits have rubber tipped needles. I am trying to find kits without the rubber tips. They do not seem to fare well with this crappy ethanol gasoline we have to buy. We've been tearing down old carburetors just to get a straight brass needle as the originals had. Where can I get a kit with just straight brass needle? I need to rebuild my W-4 carburetor with a comprehensive kit. It flutters because the throttle shaft and bushings are worn out. But I don't want a rubber tipped needle.
Ethanol free gas. When shutting the engine down, turn the fuel off and allow it to run until it consumes all the fuel in the carb bowl. Don't forget to turn the key off as there is a possibility of overheating the ignition coil to the point of fire.
@@ShainAndrews Thanks. Makes sense. That's basically what my dad does with his chainsaw. Probably one of the reasons it's lasted for 40 years. Do you think I should run a lead substitute in the gas like I do with my '74 Chevy farm truck?
@@maingun07 If the valve seats have not been replaced with the modern hardened versions. Yes. If you don't know, then yes. I thought by '74 GM had already updated their engines for unleaded. But again if you are not 100% certain then use a lead substitute.
It is simple to remove the ethanol from gas, if you pour water in a clear jar with gas, the water will separate the ethanol to the bottom, ethanol is the same as dry gas and attracts the water, water is heavier than gas so it sinks to the bottom, syphon off the pure gas above the water, ethanol mix. There is videos showing the process.
Love the comprehensive carb kit from your site. However, Can’t get an open end nor a boxed end 9/16 wrench on the back carb mounting bolt on my Dad’s 350. Is a special tool required? Manifold have to come off to get to it?
Carb work...*shudder*. Growing up we had an Allis Chalmers 175. The best way I can describe how often I was in that carb was that it was never together long enough for the gaskets to stick (basic problem was that it had no fuel pump but was too thirsty for that.) Also cool to see women doing this work. I surprised a lot over the years; these days I do it by doing my own motorcycle maintenance and riding solo across the country on one.
We don't need the music. Please just keeping talking for best teaching effect! No, seriously, I think you should redo this video, talking us carefully through the whole process. Remember some have never had any experience working with carburetors. Your JD 3010 carburetor instruction was much, much clearer.
There you go again working with dirty components. This goes against my grain and training. I can no longer watch. You have lost your credibility. So sorry, JIM
💖 I come here for Rachel..
Liked the disassembling process on this rebuild better than previous ones that were fast action. This gives a better idea of where every thing goes. Also the close-up of the idle speed and idle jet adjustments at the end and the explanation of how to listen for the right adjustments. Great content as always.
I had to leave my throttle shaft alone this time around, someone prior to me stripped out the throttle screw and I don't want to mess around with it. I managed to get the little brass tube out as well even though someone prior mangled that as well. It's all cleaned and I will be putting it back together or Sunday. I will be sure to use this video to help. Thank you for making this how to.
Hi Rachel, You are an amazing Young Lady, and you have Classic Tractor Fever. Thanks for the video. 🇺🇸
+1
You are the coolest girl of all time, just saying, your Dad has to be proud.
Rachel, can I very politely help? I am an expert on rebuilding Farmall carburetors (and BTW, I have purchased your H kits and they are very good. Viewers should buy and use them.). First, this is a great video. You do a nice job and you are very enjoyable to watch. NIce work Rachel! But, will you allow me to clear up a few points on this video? Yes, do not break off the idle jet. You are so correct on that! If you do, a special size drill and tap is needed. Its not something an average person would have. Then, please replace both the drip filter (its felt and it was in the kit) as well as the felt choke shaft dust seal (that was also in the kit along with the brass retainer). Its essential that both of those get changed so dust does not enter the carburetor. That then brings us up the the graphite load needle packing gland. You did not remove the old one. It can be seen at 9:39. Trust me, sand blasting will not remove the old packing! They have to be picked out (or drilled out if you are incredible careful). Old packing glands are tough and do not come out easily! Because the old packing was still in, you could not get the threads on the packing nut started at 10:15 (oh yeah, another tip; don't strip those threads on the carburetor or a really special tap is needed!). Finally, at 20:00, it can be seen that the load needle is nowhere close to in properly. In fact, it looks like you built up a bunch of sealer around the brass packing nut. Please take that packing nut out and reach in with a pick and dig that old packing gland out. You can do that with the carb on the tractor (hey, the carb is already out of gas, ha ha). But, you should take the bottom bowl back off so you can replace the felt filters listed above.
Are you able to get straight brass needles without the rubber tip? They don't fare well with the new crappy ethanol gasoline that we have to buy here. We end up pulling apart old carburetors and using old needles and seats as we had too much trouble with the rubber tipped ones. The old ones work better.
@@tyfrank3427 Not that I am aware of. I too save the old steel needle and seats. I don't re-use them, but I save them as a matched set nevertheless. I believe the problem is in how crudely the seat is made. I believe that after the hole is drilled, another machining operation is needed to refine the seat. Just my "experienced" opinion however.
My idle jet is broken. I got the old one out. Where do I get a new one?
@@kuhlmaja Many shops have them. As I sit here, I can think of two. Mark's carb in Rice, Minnesota. McDonald carburetor in Commerce, Georgia. Other people will know of even more places.
@@bryanh1944FBH Thank you. Ordered one from Marks Carbs
I come from a long line of Farmall and IH fanatics, I love your vids!! Thank you
As always, an enjoyable and informative video. Sure wish I had a tractor mechanic around here with half of your skill.
Last year, bought a New Carburetor for my Ford 9N Tractor on eBay. Works like brand new!!!
Hi Rachel.
Great video as always.
love this channel helps me alot with these old farmalls
Do you have video on a Thompson hydraulic pump removal/overhaul for a Farmall 400
Really enjoy your videos ?4U have u ever come across a 414 international carburetor making ice on outside of carb enough that throttle won't move and tractor quits
Its Paul not Linda, I really liked the video. It helped. I used the throttle lever to move the slot to align with the governor.
That tube that sticks up that you mentioned to be careful not to break. Someone prior to me broke it. Where do I find that tube? Do I really need it? Obviously the tractor ran.
Hi Richel Kelbelter is important for the weight of oil and giving power to the engine ,, you are great
I do enjoy watching your videos. At the end of your videos. You ask people to go to your website to order carb kits. When I went there I could not find a kit for my farmall model A. Please help me.
I believe there may have been a mistake in regards to the butterfly valve on the choke. The direction the arrow should be facing is downwards, rather than upwards
Hi Rachel always enjoy your videos
Thanks Rachel, If you are looking for a topic for a future episode, how about going through the governor on the M ?
Top job by the top lady as ever
Great video, enjoyed every bit of it and very educational.
Have you ever rebuilt? Zenith series VN Carburetor.
Make sure you align the economizer holes in your new governor-side throttle bushing when you reinstall it. If that was mentioned, I missed it.
Yup you missed it
DO YOU HAVE A VIDEO ON REPLACING A JD 520 RADIATOR
Hello 👋 I’ve got a Fordson superdexta 2000 with out a working three point hitch . I was wondering if you have worked on one or if you might know we’re I should look. Nothing on TH-cam that I can find.
What a great job! Thank you for sharing!
after rebuilding my carb on a M tractor, I cant control the speed. what did I miss?
hey guys just got my first m fbk 23789.confused on the year.number doesn 't appear any where i search.can you recommend fuel,oil and it has a 12 volt battery in it but appears to be 6 volt system.thank you scott in mooresville nc
I’m looking for information for my father in law who rebuilds mags. He is looking for information on how to time a Fairbanks Morris Z6
B16 for a 6 cylinder continental engine. If you don’t know where should I start looking. Thanks
Hi Rachel as always a very good tutorials
I came to watch to see if your kits have rubber tipped needles. I am trying to find kits without the rubber tips. They do not seem to fare well with this crappy ethanol gasoline we have to buy. We've been tearing down old carburetors just to get a straight brass needle as the originals had. Where can I get a kit with just straight brass needle? I need to rebuild my W-4 carburetor with a comprehensive kit. It flutters because the throttle shaft and bushings are worn out. But I don't want a rubber tipped needle.
if you loose the detent ball a crosman copperhead bb works just as good!
I've heard that modern gas does a real number on these carbs. After we've rebuilt it, any advice on the proper care and feeding of the carb?
Ethanol free gas. When shutting the engine down, turn the fuel off and allow it to run until it consumes all the fuel in the carb bowl. Don't forget to turn the key off as there is a possibility of overheating the ignition coil to the point of fire.
@@ShainAndrews Thanks. Makes sense. That's basically what my dad does with his chainsaw. Probably one of the reasons it's lasted for 40 years. Do you think I should run a lead substitute in the gas like I do with my '74 Chevy farm truck?
@@maingun07 If the valve seats have not been replaced with the modern hardened versions. Yes. If you don't know, then yes. I thought by '74 GM had already updated their engines for unleaded. But again if you are not 100% certain then use a lead substitute.
It is simple to remove the ethanol from gas, if you pour water in a clear jar with gas, the water will separate the ethanol to the bottom, ethanol is the same as dry gas and attracts the water, water is heavier than gas so it sinks to the bottom, syphon off the pure gas above the water, ethanol mix. There is videos showing the process.
Just rebuilt mine with the higher end kit. Only runs on full choke. Any ideals
Maybe its my eyes, but looks like someone got a new camera. Love the vids.
Old timers always talk about "boiling out" a carb. could you explain this process and what it entails?
Love the comprehensive carb kit from your site. However, Can’t get an open end nor a boxed end 9/16 wrench on the back carb mounting bolt on my Dad’s 350. Is a special tool required? Manifold have to come off to get to it?
Figured it out. 9/16” crows foot did the trick.
any suggestion on how to get the old Venturi out for cleaning? mine doesn't seem to want to budge.. and I don't want to force it
Mine was in pretty tight as well. I heated up the casting a little and it came out pretty easy.
How's about rebuilding a gas 560 international
Great video, could you have painted the carburetor before installing it back in?
Do you have any videos on doing rear brakes on a ford 851? Or similar?
good program..waiting for a new one
Thanks again Rachel
Do you ship parts to Mexico? I'm restoring a Farmall M and it's hard yo find parts for that model.
Where do you put your carb id number in for the correct rebuild kit? I have and IH 350 tag # 361525R92
Great video. Thank you.
Thanks guys!
Do you have a fuel bowl for a distillate SMTA
That's quite a rare tractor! Nice find... I know what you need... might have a used one...
My throttle shaft broke yesterday when putting the carburetor back on the tractor 😑
Very good
Rachel did you say that you sand blasted that lower bowl of your carburetor, looks like you got ripped off, because that looks plain nasty.
When I do "How To Fix" videos, I use ample swear words, about 1 out of every 3~5 words seems to be the magic ratio. :)
0:00 mine leaks petrol
👍
Carb work...*shudder*. Growing up we had an Allis Chalmers 175. The best way I can describe how often I was in that carb was that it was never together long enough for the gaskets to stick (basic problem was that it had no fuel pump but was too thirsty for that.)
Also cool to see women doing this work. I surprised a lot over the years; these days I do it by doing my own motorcycle maintenance and riding solo across the country on one.
👋👋👋👊
You are very beautiful to do this job .
We don't need the music. Please just keeping talking for best teaching effect! No, seriously, I think you should redo this video, talking us carefully through the whole process. Remember some have never had any experience working with carburetors. Your JD 3010 carburetor instruction was much, much clearer.
👍🇵🇱🇺🇸
Man i need a tractor...
don't expect any help from them i messaged re trouble with my tractor all i got was take it to a Mechanic
Sorry to say but this seems a wee bit hurried
Talking to zombies - hate it. Very skilled allthough Racel, but speak to audience, not the air.
I would be embarrassed to say I cleaned a carburetor and left it Nasty like it was. Makes me doubt how clean the inside really is.
Use gloves
There you go again working with dirty components. This goes against my grain and training. I can no longer watch.
You have lost your credibility.
So sorry, JIM