Air Fuel Ratio Tuning of the 5 - 8KW Diesel Heater / Stage one using AFR gauge
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 เม.ย. 2020
- Ok, so I only got the maximum power tuned in this video. But I will get the low power dialled in soon.
Best AFR with no smoke I got was 15.5 @ 5000 rpm and a pump speed of 7Hz. This was with a 22ml pump.
Your results may vary on your heater, installation, etc.
For anyone wanting to copy his numbers.. his numbers wont work for everyone. There is differences in the heaters ,burner tube construction, fuel pump, the combustion fan gap map be different, and exhaust intake and elevation all effect your clean burn settings. We see people trying to use others settings all the time and have high carbon monoxide so their heater soots up. Unfortunately you have to do your own for optimal burn.
I've pinned this so people will see it better. Andrew is spot on, these numbers might not be ideal for your setup. I'm going to use a CO meter in the next video to see how this relates to the AFR, this is interesting.
@@DavidMcLuckie thanks David. I am interested too
@@DavidMcLuckie What is your Altitude (feet above Sea level)? Just curious.✌️
I missed how you got into the settings adjusting I am at 9400 feet
It will also vary with fuel type so if you are blending used sump oil or vegetable oil with petrol/methanol/kerosene you should aim for consistent proportions and use this video's technique to calibrate the heater.
Finally tinkered with the controls...
Been running my 5-8 kw heater for over a year on the factory settings but needed a better air flow to circulate around my caravan.
Used a set from another youtube video ... and so far seems to have improved the heat output and smell from exhaust (outside the caravan)
When it starts up
Set range 1.0 to 3.0 hz
And fan at 2050 to 4550
I use the lower settings and run the heater all night in my caravan
Still cold here in NZ frosts this week
Always enjoy the content
Cheers Dave
Thanks for this, David! Others here have requested EGT and CO/CO2 readings. On a more practical note, measuring output air temperature as a function of AFR changes would be easy and useful. On my 5Kw unit, increasing max pump Hz from 5.0 to 6.0 produced noticeably hotter discharge air. I have no way of measuring AFR but I think I'd hesitate going above 6.0 hz (I tested as high as 6.3, in .1 hz steps) because the discharge air temp was hot enough to potentially soften/melt the (cheap) discharge vent and possibly damage the synthetic carpet abutting my floor-level discharge.
Great video! I really enjoy going through all of the tunning even with all of the effort to turn it off every, single, time. Your videos are always entertaining, and educational! I am really interesting in watching the CO video as well 🙂
Regarding pump capacities for those interested, the ml rating stamped on the pump body refers to how many millilitres are delivered per 1000 pump strokes.
So ml per hour can be calculated using Pump Capacity (ml per 1000) x Hz x 3.6 (3600 secs per hour/1000 strokes per capacity)
For example, a 22ml pump at 5Hz = 22 x 5 x 3.6 = *396 ml/hr* +/-5% accuracy.
is that a microliter or a picoliter?
@@nomadchad8243
A 22ml (millilitre) capacity pump, a measurement in ml per 1000 strokes, will deliver 22μl (microlitres) per stroke.
My diesel heater ( hcalory Hc-A01 has a setting that you could change the pump size does that mean I could make it burn more fuel making it put out more btu’s it ranges from 16 up to 65 I believe
@@lanceboudreau3630
The ratio of fuel and air needs to remain correct. If you jam in more fuel you need to increase the airflow accordingly. Your unit may not allow for that.
Awesome Video, Mine was pumping out clouds of smoke, pulled it apart - major coking - cleaned out, then reprogrammed (5kw unit - my new pump is a 28ml) and my settings ended up being P 1.2 @ 1450 for low (didn't adjust) and P 4.4 @ 4500 for high (was pushing black smoke @ P 5.0) - absolutely awesome now - thank you for a great video
HI Snotta.,I,m frfom Argentina,my inglish is very bad....sorry.I have a 5KW and my new pump its a 28ml .its in a litle sailboat,any recomendations ?
sorry!!!its a webasto 9012868 c !!!
Love your video 🤣 I've been tuning by my fuel air mix with a little needle valve and bypass fuel pipe 😆 did the job!!! I used the farty noise as audible tuning limit and runs great now! I've got completely different display with round pin connector and rf remote but no instructions!
If it works, it works. :)
This video is just perfect timing. I just got a brand new 5kw heater and it keeps over temping e-05 code and has a constant little bit of white smoke coming out of exhaust. I have checked the intake and exhaust for combustion for anything being stuck and same with the vent. Now I have a better idea of how to adjust the settings to get mine to work.
We usually keep the max fan speed under 4500 or around there. The fans don't last long over 4500. And we will tweak the fuel only. The problem with running rich or cold is they soot up. No one enjoys cleaning these heaters when they actually use them for heat for hours or months at a time. You want the case temperature to be over 150°c for low setting and over 180 up to 215°c for high. And yes you can tune it while it's running by the way..
Agreed: limit the fan rpm to 4500! I tweaked my unit to max settings of 5000 rpm and 6hz. Noticeably hotter output air temperature with no smoke so good guess on the combustion side. However, the fan motor self-destructed after an hour's total run time, over about 6 start cycles. Huge PITA getting this sorted with the vendor and Amazon and had to cancel a boat trip because of no heater, plus massive job getting dead heater out of the boat.
have you any ideas on the ideal case temps for the 2kw heaters Please? im running mine at 2.0Hz with one red bar on the lcd controller screen but the core is only acheiving around 107 degrees C and the exhaust silencer seems cold to the touch even though the exhaust pipe itself is insulated.
Hellooooooo . I bought the 5 kw all in one . It is the taller one and hope it works as well as what they say . I havn't tried it as of yet . I am hooking it up to a Deep cycle marine battery . Battery was actully more then the heater . Thanks for sharing the knowledge with them . Take care . Cheers .
Safety say you are the UK expert on this subject now. Best wishes from Northern Ireland.
You actually have a lot of experts over there who actually know a lot more about heater tuning that David Mcluckie. Join the chinese diesel heaters on Facebook. Theres a lot of us over there :). I am canadian not from the UK but there is definitely some people in the UK who know more than myself
I have been fitting these of various quality for a couple of years and I have 2 myself ( loving your videos by the way ) I have the one in my work van set to 1.7hz low 5.2hz on high (pump)the fan speeds are 1900low and 4410 on high I have stripped the unit out once to have a look at the soot build up and was amazed at how little there was after a year and a half about half a teaspoon of that much !!!
The workshop one i have set to 2.5hz low and 5hz high / fan on 1900 low and 4300high ( seems to run hotter but I need it as no insulation ) also both units are the 5/ 8 KW ones
I hope this may be some kind of help or to build up some info keep up all the brilliant content
Thanks!
Great videos on the Diesel heaters David keep them coming Would really like to see a video for a 2kw Fan speeds and fuel feed rates Regards Ronnie
This is great info. I got the dial controller to save myself from going down rabbit holes ;-)
Very informative and educational. Thank you 🙏 sir.
Those gauges are expensive ! Thanks for saving us the cost of buying one . Brilliant stuff
2hz sounded like a grandfather clock next to a roaring wood stove.
I liked it.
that noise is from the flame going out then restarting...(small contained explosions[the pops] - not good for the seals)
I went through a similar process, using a wide band Lambda sensor, connected to the Arduino (ESP32) that was controlling the heater - trying to make it run closed loop (auto adjusting the AF Ratio).
What I found however was that immediately after a fuel pulse is injected into the heater, it runs rich, leaning off towards the next pulse. Somewhere in the middle it (should) get to 14.7. You can kind of see this on your meter with the value dancing around.
I assumed that if I averaged the O2 reading over the time between fuel pump pulses, and drove the average towards 14.7 it would be about right. Unfortunately, this resulted in gouts of smoke from the exhaust.
The profile of the burn (from the O2 readings) was non linear. It also varied with - well, everything! Fuel pump speed, fan speed, heater temperature, ambient air temperature, day of the week..... Using a simple average didn't work. Nor did any of the other algorithms I tried.
After a week or so of experimentation, I found the results were no better than tuning it by eye for minimum smoke! I gave up on the Lambda sensor idea!
The only other though I had was to make the exhaust gas fill a larger volume to try and average out the spikes. I was trying to imagine how a car ECU would do it. Would we also need to add a MAF to measure the air intake volume and have it do the maths based off of air quantity coming in, fuel required to burn stoichiometrically, and then use the lambda sensor for error correction?
I can see this becoming a very complicated way of controlling a simple heater. But boy you could get it to be efficient. :)
Stage one would be getting a useful and reliable reading from the lambda sensor.
@@DavidMcLuckie There has got to be a solution! Not sure a MAF would give you much more than the fan speed, though I guess it would account for air pressure & temperature.
I think I was concentrating too hard on getting a perfect 14.7 ratio, rather than looking at what average value coresponds to it running nicely.
I like your approach of using a CO meter (in a different video). I wonder if that might be a better metric to tune it by, automatically?
YOU ALLWAYS crack me up !! thanks !!
You had me at "Focus you fack!" Great content!!!
I found this very interesting, its an oldish video but here are many tinkering this year. I think though that the unit should be run much leaner than the Oxygen sensor would suggest. If you were injecting into a cylinder you want all the fuel to burn with all the air then 15:1 is what we're after. But if its a flame in a wind tunnel then there is going to be a lot of excess oxygen and so you'll struggle to get near 15:1, and the only way you will is by burning it downstream like in the exhaust. I am not surprised it smokes. On a more recent video you cut the combustion chamber open, and that showed a Bunsen burner blue flame which shows its pretty close to ideal, too lean and it will struggle to stay lit or will be in patches and if its yellow its too rich and that will deposit soot. So for reasons I can't really back up, I think that it will work best much leaner
Please do the smaller unit too, I really need to tune mine. :/
That sound at 15 mins sounded like a pulse jet engine. Could it be caused by the long tube between the heater and the silencer?
I’ve purchased 6 diesel heaters from 4 different sellers 5 of them have failed within 30 days. Trying to read and comprehend the Chinese manual might as well listen to the coyotes howl thank you for your video
I've tried to set mine before with a oil burner gauge think it has a profile built-in, temperature and humidity will change the profile. Setting's are for temperature running like a PLC. Best results at 3.4 hz or lower nothing under 2.
Excellent video, have a 5kw on order for my camper build, just waiting on Delivery. I work on diesel/Kerosene heaters as part of day job, very hard to hear the noise on low Hz and pump speed but is it a high speed pulsed combustion, if so, your making a fuel/air bomb motor.ie. scram jet. Possibly getting pulsed fuel detonation rather than a clean burn. It's probably going to take a while as air/fuel sweetspot will lead to many new swear words being invented and some you though you'd forgotten.
i would note that the default setting getting you a a/f ratio of that 16 .1 would actually be preferred if it was automotive, a small amount of unburned oxygen and much reduced chance of co and coking
"Focus, you fuck!" Love the AvE reference.
Hi David. Could you advise what the best settings are for a 5kw. ie min and max hz for fuel and min and max for rpm. Thanks
Yes please do more we love experiments👏👍😷
Your results make me wonder if a slightly higher pump volume might help with your particular heater? 28mL ??
Any chance of you testing a little forced induction with a small 12v fan and that bigger 65ml pump?
I wonder if the afterburner controller could use the AFR gauge as an analog input to automatically adjust the hz once the heater is up to temp 🤔
my controler starts with the message p12v and i cant get rid .. any ideas. and when i turn up or down the temp it come up with h-1 to h-6.. h-6 been the hotest and fastest
Hi is it best to start my Planar 8DM on high. For a few minutes then turn it down to burn off the build up inside ? And how do I check the hertz from my pump? It burps and facts a bit some nights. Wondering if that's the diesel air ratio .
our 5kw in a case arrived with Low 1.2 Hz fan speed 1680 and High 5.5 Hz fan speed 4500. it seems to run ok like this without any strange exhaust noises, however our 2kw makes that noise when you drop the low setting to 0.9 Hz from the standard 1.2 Hz with the fan speed at 1400 the lowest it will go. at this setting it blows dense black smoke.
Hi David , I get that humming noise but mine is the controller that you can not adjust settings , any idea what causes the humming ,new burner fitted all cleaned out but still hums especially when warming up , is it to much fuel or to little that makes the hum ?
What elevation are you at?
Had to strip my new 5kw just after 5 days as it was absolutely caked up inside. Just on factory settings. If its sooting up that quick what recommendations does anyone have for me to reduce this in the advanced settings, is it sooting up quick because its overfueling.
only have a start time and no stop time in the timer. Is that correct. And i can set the time tot 99.99 ?????
Hello David, thanks for the video, explains a lot. Just bought a 5KW unit to heat a (living -) container, had it on a test-run and it sooted up in about 6-8hrs of mixed operations. Problem is that I am located at 2.850 mts above sea level (9.350ft) and the factory settings are obviously not adequate, although the display surprisingly shows the altitude. I thought that it was maybe self compensating for high altitude... Problem is that the display provided is of a different type (only 3 buttons on the bottom), so I´ll have to figure how to do the adjustments....Would you happen to have any suggestions on which parameters to start with, running on Diesel???
As you're higher up with less air to burn, you'll want to dial back the fuel injected into the heater. May I also recommend a cheap CO test meter.
I was told by someone very familiar with these heaters, that the altitude reading seems to have no impact on the control of the fuel pump, which I agree is strange since they obviously went through the trouble of reading the sensor value. Maybe some day in the future? But yeah you want to dial the fuel back for higher altitude operation.
hey david. just wondering have you ever come across a different controller that looks like these digital ones? mine looks the same but to prime is the tow arrows, um and it has a weird "plateu hypoxia" setting... not sure what that is and i can't find any info or explanation on the net. just seeing if you've ever come accross them.
Is it the one with the settings button in the top left corner and the OK button on the top right? That settings sounds like the 'high altitude setting', which alters the air fuel ratio for thin high up air.
For what it's worth, when I was truck driving, that noise it's making is the same as the thousands of them I heard running sweet. Go to any truck park in the winter, you'll hear them ticking over the same.
That low speed resonance was not a good burn. When you hear that sound the mixture is off or the heater is sooting up inside. But I think he was too lean
Most everyone tunes a diese heaterl by the carbon monoxide.
Just an observation really. Obviously, with the correct test gear, it could be set up perfectly, but that noise wasn't unusual. I should say though, that it wasn't a pulsing noise.
@@philcross7315 it's not unusual.. but you will hear a perfect burn. Think of it as a torch. If it's doing the pulsating it's not burning proper
I have the 22 ml pump. Fan rpm 1600 - 5000. Pump 1.6 -8.0. I am at 16 m above sea level. No black smoke.
Hi mate great vedio. Question I have. Do those pink fuel pump dampeners sound deadening things make a difference to the ticking noise many thanks
Not really no.
Can you please explain the PF (pump frequency) setting along with the magnet 51 or 52 settings? Im very confused on how this part works and my heater wont run high rpm.
Stoichiometric AFR on diesel means it just start to produce soot this is why diesel engines are usually run lean. Diesel tuners like Banks say no less than 17:1 AFR adds the best performance
IMO the CO meter aided fine tune is more accurate
All for the ratio for the smaller one! It's the more popular and would be curious to see if it behaves like the bigger one.
The 2kw(d2) does not behave like the bigger (d4) its tuning is not as forgiving. It's a fine line and they like to soot up. They give us the most issues over on the forums.
Hello there , I wonder if you have came across fault E07 Disconnection fault, I have just installed a new 5kw diesel heater & this fault has came up on the control panel & I am finding it very hard to get rid of it , My manual I got with the heater tells me it's the communication line or plug between the switch and the controller is open or falsely connected . I have undone all plugs & sprayed some WD40 & made sure they click back together but I am still getting the same fault .
Hello friend, can you help me? I have a problem, my 8kw heater is too much for my small trailer camp, and at least it is very hot. Can you help me tweak the settings to lower the power to the minimum possible? Thanks!!!
I'm new to these. I have one of the all in one variants. I'm 735 obove sea level. Do i need to tune mine? Ive only hear of people doing this that are above 1000?
The noise is only when it starts up when there's too much fuel and it goes away and probably will run fine once it warms up it only happens sometimes not broken
Hi David, would 6.8ml flow rate super silent Autoterm Planar pump work with 5kw chinese heater? I have just ordered one and I hope I would find the way to adjust the settings accordingly. Any advice please? Great channel 👏👍👌
It will work in the sense that it will connect and pump fuel. But you will need to adjust the fuel settings to match the pump. I'm not sure what their 'flow rate' is measured as.
I've collect imperfect data from various sources, including the comments from this video and my setup, which works fine. The average tuning parameters show a general trend of LOW: 1Hz @ 1000 rpm. HIGH: 5Hz @ 5000 rpm. Draw a line on graph paper and then chose your desired upper and lower points based on the limits of your specific heater. My setup is 1.4Hz @ 1500rpm and 3.5Hz @ 3500 rpm. So far so good as it's oversized for the space and I've turned the upper limits down.
at which Hz setting do you tick over at when up to temperature and what is the core temperature at full chat with your lower settings please? Im asking for shutdown and startup temperature reasons, thanks. your revised high setting is similar to that of a 2kw heater so im wondering if the burn chamber reaches a similar core temperature to that of the 2kw heater, if the ecu's are the same and the controllers are the same im guessing it must be around 120 degrees C at full chat I am also wondering if the sixe of the burn chamber makes a marked difference in the core temperature. if the highest setting on the 2kw is 3.1 Hz and the electronics are the same it is fairly reasonable to assume that the 5kw will stay clean shutting down at only 3.5 Hz if the core temperature is high enough, this could greatly reduce wear and tear on the internal componants like the motor and bearings. I am about to install a 5kw outside a caravan heating outside air and these settings you use may be very helpful to reduce fuel consumption and over heating inside the caravan. I shall test run it tommorrow with your settings.
I really appreciate your videos on the diesel heaters. I recently bought an all in one 5kw unit that has a "plateau" setting for dealing with high altitudes but the manual doesn't say at what altitude it should be activated. It'll be used at 1250 meters. Any ideas?
That will depend if it's one of the controllers that actually does anything. Some seem to just be a gimmick and don't actually adjust fueling. I would turn it on and see if it changes anything.
keeps the fan at the same speed and slows the pump frequency thus running it leaner. Use over 5000ft or to run the heater at a slower burn rate.
My biggest concern is soot at low settings. I just disassembled my clogged up heater. I will try a higher minimum rpm next time.
How much rpm or hz chanse affect on afr?
Hi david great videos and very informative. Ive a query are the fuEl pumps supposed to speed up and down every 30 seconds or is there something wrong with my new unit. Thanks James.
At fuel power and if you use the heater on Hz mode instead of temperature I can hear the pump speed up and slow down to stay under the overheat temperature.
@@DavidMcLuckie ah OK, can hear it when 5.5hz as well. Will try in temp settings. Thanks for reply
Change your password. The last function in the setting is change password. I did mine to 6 - - - so I only had to enter the first digit then hit ok three more times. Works great and saves some swearing. The newer screen allows changes on the fly.
Brilliant suggestion.
@troutstag This is fantastic!! ive read a few CDH owners manuals (as best as i could) and haven't come across the procedure for resetting the Admin PIN.. is there a series of buttons to press to reset it? Assuming you type in the 1688 or 9009 code first to access the admin settings and then prompt it to reset some how? @David McLuckie have you figured out the procedure for reset?
Hi David, I have a 2kw heater and my lowest pulse setting is 1Hz and highest 3Hz. I don't understand why I don't get a full display on heat up. Only getting 2 green, 2 yellow and 1 red segment. Only had the heater installed a few days ago. Any ideas?
3hz is a bit low. Great for CO emissions but not for producing heat.
my 2kw is producing a steady 20 degrees C in my house with one red bar at 2.0 Hz turning it up to 3 Hz at start up easily lights up both red bars. my lowest setting is 0.9 Hz at 1400 rpm and the higest is 3.1 Hz at 4500 rpm. are you heating internal air or outside air? ouiside air in winter may be making it struggle a little. at startup it does take around 15 to 20 mins to reach full temperature. 2 red bars. I tend to set the temperature to 2.5 Hz for startup it will throttle to max 3.1 Hz starting up reach two red bars and throttle back to 2.5 Hz I usually wait for the ambient temp to reach 20 degrees C and drop the setting to 2.0 hz after about ten minutes at 2.5 Hz. then it seems to maintain 20 degrees C at one red bar nicely. sometimes I do think there isnt quite enough heat being produced but witrh my adventures in changing the settings being such a failure and raising carbon monoxide levels, I am a little fearful of trying again.
David when you tested your Planar 2kw heater you told us the max settings were 3.1 Hz factoy settings are you thinking of a 5kw unit in your answer to the O/P?
3.0 Hz would be low in a 5kw heater but not in a 2kw heater which seems to flood at settings higer than 3.1 Hz or mine does anyway maybe thats Abbey-Normal.
This is exactly why I wqould like to see more from you on 2kw heaters please?
Not that scientific but I measured the flame chamber temp, runs between 155c and 165c on base settings no smoke no noise. Great video by the way. If you want hotter or cleaner burn maybe add a little petrol to the diesel.
Are there any folks setting their heaters at sea level vs high altitude? I’m toying with my settings at 3000’ above msl.
My deisel heater really smells of diesel out of the exhaust. Would i be best to reduce the hz to pump in less deisel ?
Yes, if you can smell diesel then it's not burning properly, so I'd try reducing the HZ and see if it gets better.
After seeing the values listed on the pumps, I wonder if the inputs and outputs could be paralleled to double the output, or customize flow more than just controller?
Example, 22ml x 2 ÷ 44ml
You could also swap to a larger pump.
@@DavidMcLuckie interesting!!
Thanks for the reply 👍, and the awesome 👌 videos!!
Lmao. Sounds like it was about to launch. Might make a good Pulsejet LOL :) Good interesting video.
I didn’t hear you mention it in the video but those gauges actually measure lambda and convert that to AFR. So if that gauge is setup for gasoline(most are by default) then stoichiometric(lambda=1) is 14.7. Even though diesel is 14.5:1 you still want to see 14.7:1 on the gauge if it’s set for gasoline. So you may be just slightly richer than you thought.
Excellent point. One day I want to revisit with a better exhaust setup.
Witam. Bardzo proszę o pomoc. Mam piec 8kW. Mój syn w ustawieniach serwisowych poprzestawiał, częstotliwość i obroty wentylatora. Ja starałem się poustawiać coś ale szczerze mówiąc nie mam pojęcia co i jak ma być. Usterka polega na tym że: piec zdemontuję wyczyszczę komorę spalania, uruchomię. Po max 2h piec się wyłączy i nie da się już uruchomić. Po kolejnych próbach wywala mi błędy E08,E10 i straszny biały dym z rury wydechowej. Komora spalania jest całkowicie zapchana sadzą. Dlatego podejrzewam że jest rozregulowany tzn. źle ustawiona częstotliwość dawkowania pompki i obroty wentylatora. Po czyszczeniu ustawiałem większą częstotliwość i mniejszą a efekt ten sam zapchana sadzą komora spalania. Bardzo proszę o pomoc.
Dziękuję i pozdrawiam Wojtek
Hi if you run a heater lean will this make the exhaust glow like on a combustion engine? I have a new hcalory 5-8 kw stand alone and on test run today the exhaust started to glow red when running it on the higher settings I’m worried it’s running lean or is this just how they are
Lean on these heaters just produces less heat. If you got the exhaust glowing that's a lot of heat being produced. I'd be concerned about it starting to burn off the fins of the aluminium heat exchanger inside.
Great vid. I have a question. How can I adjust the screen's brightness, if possible? Thx
I'm not sure you can.
You can do this by adding another led to the control panel and an inline resistor soldered on the positive side. theres a video on youtube dude
Can you share the model number of that AEM AFR sensor and controller(i guess the controller is integrated with the gauge).?
It's the AEM X-Series gauge which uses a Bosch 4.9LSU sensor. Yes, the controller is inside the gauge.
A very reasonable experiment!
This is David's specialty,don't you.
In regards to the controller are you hooked into the diagnostic wire or just the clock/switching wire.
I'm sorry I don't understand the question.
@@DavidMcLuckie all good just wanting to know which wiring you are using to turn it on in the 6 pin plug.
I had an issue with my cheap 2kw diesel heater,I put into high altitude mode that slowed the fuel pump and now it works like a champ....I'm at sea level
Hi, i cant enter in set up mode with new Blue display?
My Vevor 8kw (probably 5kw) heater responds to changes without having to shut the machine down, I'm sure yours will do the same as they are pretty much all from the same place.
Anyone know how to put old style panel in new style heater, so I can change air fuel ratios
my heater makes that rumbling noise on start up.Its coming from the Air intake filter only lasts a few seconds
Hi love the vids, quick question I run my heater from a power pack supplied by the mains electric but here in not so sunny France we get a few power cuts and was wondering that during running it and getting a cut will this kill the heater if so what can be done to prevent this,, cheers bud
I assume you mean you're taking the 220v from the mains and run a 12V power supply from that to run the heater? A sudden loss of power to the heater means it can't run the fans and there is a risk of overheating the circuit board inside the heater. You could use a UPS (uninterruptible power supply) between the mains and your 12V power supply. Or put a 12V battery on the output of the 12V power supply. That way when the mains is on the battery is just floating at 12V and the heater is drawing power from the supply, but if the mains fails the heater will continue to run off the battery. You'll just need to make sure you turn the heater off before the battery drains.
@@DavidMcLuckie thanks for this information David I run mine on a similar set up here in uk and got caught out with a power cut it killed the glow plug so an easy fix i'll be looking for a UPS now thanks to you and our French buddy to stop it happening again. Cheers
@@DavidMcLuckie "You could use a UPS (uninterruptible power supply) between the mains and your 12V power supply." Great idea. "Or put a 12V battery on the output of the 12V power supply." You NEVER want to do this unless it is a battery charger. If you put a battery on the output of the power supply, and the mains fails, the battery backfeeds the power supply, and damages it. Been there, done that :-( You could do this, IF you fed the output from the supply via a suitable diode, and raised the 12V to at least 12.7V .
REALLY great info, many thanks. I am going to start playing with my unit,... Supposedly a 5kw unit, it could do with being just a little warmer...
Does stoich figures works for non compression burning? the co2/co meter sounds a better idea. I thought you would want a fair amount of oxygen left over after a burn since this is how the rocket stove achieves its high heat output
Yes for the stoichiometric part. In a perfect burn all the fuel would use all the oxygen regardless of compression burn or open flame. But due to the rather poor mixing of the air and fuel in the heater if you run it lean you get a lot less heat. CO is the easiest tune for these heaters. You could probably build and exhaust setup that keeps the gas in long enough for the AFR to read properly but that would then only apply to that very specific setup.
Having a heater with a small CO reading means you've got enough fuel coming in to produce good heat, but not so much you'll soot it up quickly. :)
Can these heaters be installed in a vertical position? I have never seen any videos with it fitted vertically?? Thanks for some good demo's.
From what I've seen they should only ever be installed in the horizontal position with the intake/exhaust coming out of the bottom. (something to do with the fuel delivery-system to the burn chamber (possible leakage?) ...if i recall correctly) Hope that helps.
Most vans have the exhaust coming out sideways for ground clearance
For those of you tuning 2kw heaters, there are a number of pumps (volume wise) used on them. I've seen anywhere from 16mL to 18.5mL and even 22mL Oddly, the 18.5mL pump seems to be the perfect compromise, yet is nearly impossible to find.
what makes the 18.5 better than the 16 or 22?
Do the controllers like the one in the vid come with same settings on the 2kw.
I knacked one on my van and swapped it out with one from a redundant 5kw all in one and it’s smoked/clogged up fairly quickly .
Any ideas anyone?
hi good videos as always have you any idea why i can smell exhaust fumes coming out of the air outlet have replaced all the gaskets but still smells
Possible problem: bad casting - porosity in the casting....should not use if defective.
Are lambda's aimed at explosive combustion configuration vs almost low pressure jet turbines continuous burn? My settings are 1hz 1450 and 5hz 4500.
These / This sensor is for downstream in the exhaust. Somewhere between the manifold and the first catalytic converter in an exhaust. In turbo cars you have them ideally 12 - 18 inches after the turbo but as far from the exit of exhaust so they don't get any fresh air to skew the reading. All they want is a flow of gas over them. This sensor will end up in one of the Subarus.
@@DavidMcLuckieWhere did you get this from? Handy thing to have! Very neat welding fyi.
@@DavidMcLuckie I have one in my Honda S2000 running 22psi on a gen2 gtx3582r 👍👍
Can you adjust more fan speed for starting as mine starts fine then it won’t fire the next day leave it for a week then it starts again if add a air line and blow up the air intake it fires up ?
If you tweak the settings for the low heat settings that's what it uses for the startup as well.
Hi mate saw your videos about the pressure washer repair, could do with a bit of help if possible, please drop me a reply
Hi David i follow your videos to a tee mate & keep up the good work buddy, extremely easy & informative the way you explain stuff.. I've got a wee mission for you shud you choose to accept it......😂😂.. i have one of the new Maxpeedingrods all in one heaters but thinking it's running a bitty rich as its using quite a bit of diesel...Ate they tunable.. & could you could do a video on tuning the buggers.... thanks in advance pal... Stevie fae Ayrshire
I have a cheap 5 kw heater and I’m not able to get parts from th place I bought it. Are the parts all interchangeable? Could I upgrade the parts? A pump and the electronics are over half the price of a new heater.
Yes. The blower motors, ecu, fuel pumps are the same on 5KW and 2KW heaters. Only the body and burn chamber change size.
Diesel combustion my have a stoichiometric equivalence ratio of 14.4:1, but you’ll find most diesel engines are designed to run very lean. At peak torque, it’s not unusual to run 25:1 to avoid excessive smoke.
Admittedly, I don’t know enough to apply this compression-ignition to the thermal ignition of a burner.
I would imagine that a stoichiometric burn would be the most powerful, but not necessarily the cleanest. In the 80’s lean-burn gas engines frequently ran at 18:1 and were efficient (for the time) in terms of fuel/horsepower, if not displacement/horsepower.
The reality might be, like engines, that efficiency, power and emissions can all be optimized for, but only one at a time.
I seem to have messed up the 1688 code..it wont let me in....managed to use 9009, is there any way of resetting ?
Once the power is removed are the new settings lost? On does it store them without power connected?
It should store them. But I did have one controller that forgot when power was removed and it went back to default.
I have 1.7hrz 1450rpm on the low, 6.5hrz and 4500rpm on the high side..
There are no soot and no smoke coming out of the heater..
But this makes the heater hit the max the temp protect before it turns itself down for a few seconds to reach 245°C and stabilize again, so maybe I need to adjust the high fan speed a little more..
Thank you for posting. On my 5kw heater the high setting is at 5000rpm and 7Hz
The low setting is 1500rpm and 1.0Hz. I would love to know how efficiently the low setting is because this is where the heater mostly runs. Thank you
That's when you need to CO meter to see how well your heater setup is working.
David, can this air fuel mixture be done on a Webasto?
I've only used the water heaters but Webasto have their own tuning method in the Webasto diagnostic software.
tuning a diesel is easy .. no smoke = no poke .. oh hang on a min, but in all seriousness this is really interesting, thanks David
didn't know you could tune these things. good idea to use and AFR gauge. But I guess these are calibrated for 14.7 petrol engines, but sure it will give a good indication. But I wonder what would be economic?. Trying to run as lean as possible without the flame extincting (and loosing less heat through the exhaust ?)
do you have any experience with the newer controller/board that does not have the hidden menu; john and mandy have videos about it.... ordered another controller in hopes it's the older version
the newer variant looks similar but works diff.... pump priming for instance you hit up and down keys together/etc.... curious as to if there's any hidden menus/etc; the easy way to tell it's the newer version is when it's off there's a red circle with a line through it
I had one. But the ECU in the heater it was attached to died. So I never actually got to play with it.
@@DavidMcLuckie thanks for the reply.... trying to run it with used oil and the thing keeps either going to much air or to much oil..... it's auto regulation is garbage; possibly alright for kerosene or diesel
The reason that it's not easy to calculate those Hz numbers from 1 or 2 readings is, i think, that it is on a logarithmic scale and NOT a linear scale.....so very difficult to calculate/extrapolate. Excellent video, though, thanks.....very funny whilst being extremely informative.
1.5 hz / 1450rpm. high is 5.0 hz / 4500 rpm, this is a ssetting i found that works for me,
Have you seen or tried the new oil burner system waste oil burner electric one.thats on aliexpress
(i do this for a living) o2 at 7.2 is a little high you should shoot for 6.5 as it produces fewer harmful emissions and tends to lend itself better to stability on most burners. some burners like weishaupt or riello can run as low as 3% without making bad gasses