A tip to more precise manual adjustment of the dials and knobs at the TDC - once you click and hold LMB, you can drag the mouse outside the dial or knob. This way you have finer granularity of setting the target bearing, distance or angle on bow.
I've tried dragging it all over the place. I know what you mean, but it is *still* a finicky pain. There are several elements in the UI of this game that cause players to label the experience as "clunky". This is definitely one of them. Easily fixed though if they just fixed the incremental change to whole values, or give us a text box somewhere to enter the values without having to E-lock a target.
Not sure how I randomly got recommended this video since I haven’t even thought about UBOAT in years. Seems like a good time to circle back and give the game another shot. Thanks for the tutorials I plan using what I learned.
While rotating the scope, hold shift while using A or D and it will rotate quicker, a bit like running in most FPS games. Another awesome tutorial. Great stuff!!!
Good example of how “dark night” attacks are totally possible. Target speed is a critical parameter. As such, that’s the last thing I check before taking my shot. That measurement with a 70 deg AOB is a lot more accurate than at a 45 deg AOB.
Concerning the use of the radial dials on the TDC: You can move the mouse cursor out of the actual dial to have a bigger radius when you hold down the left mouse button. That makes it more precise. @XL Jedi
They really need to make us able to use the mousewheel to adjust TDC parameters while hovering over them (and precise values while holding down shift).
Yeah, it's a pain. One of those things that makes you scratch your head and wonder, have the devs ever tried to use these things they have added to their game?
Yup the TDC from silent hunter auto track target AOB, which we will get on newer submarine model in this game. what i miss from silent hunter is the modded torpedo Auto Chase view mini camera.
@@xljedi2335 yes. we have to click on the torpedo in map view for chase camera. i wish the camera was automatic with a small preview like a modded silent hunter
I think for most shots historically it was this zero angle attack (dumbfire). I could be wrong but I think maybe the other angle attacks were more circumstantial. As an example you have two ships in a convoy. Set your first attack for the zero angle shot and then a 90 degree angle shot at the following vessel. Taking both shots at the same time could be an advantage if your trying to hit both and make a get away from the escorts. Maybe at some point you could try something like that with one of your future videos. Regardless, these videos are so informative and I am learning a lot. I am curious if you ever tried playing around with the hydro and try to figure out the speed and course manually or even visually. I know it would definitely slow things down considerably, but far more challenging. As you say once you know the true course it's kind of already in the bag.
In the memoirs of commanders, I don't really see where they used hydrophone TMA a lot. Often, it was the captain being called to the bridge because smoke was spotted over the horizon. In the first few chapters of Herbert Werner's memoir "Iron Coffins" I was amazed at the skill of the deck crew being able to determine the true course and speed of a zig-zagging ship just over the horizon... with nothing for a visual reference other than the tops of the masts. We can do some 4 bearing plots if you all want? The cool thing about the tools we have; we can do some TC plots without the aid of the hydrophone intercept gadget, and then use it to check our work. One thing the IRL crew had in abundance was time.
If theres a destroyer b-lining your position and you point your sub bow to bow and let it get 700-500 meters, no less, you could quick 90 no gyro straight down its throat, yes? All that matter then is 0 gyro, and distance you could set angle 90 or 0 speed to 0 distance 500 and launch. Dud or miss and you're in deep shit, but its possible to clutch that shot.
A zero bearing shot is like a hole-in-one in golf. I wouldn't waste the torpedo. You would improve your chances if you had a magnetic detonator and set the torpedo to run a meter under the keel of the destroyer. The beam on those things is so narrow though, still tough to pull it off.
If you get into a 1-on-1, or maybe even 3-to-1 tangle with ASW patrols. There is a way to possibly level the field and pick off 1 or 2 to aid your escape. I'd call it a "Knife Fight" strategy, but I suspect I'll be called out for an exploit, or non-historical accuracy.
Views at night do not transfer well to YT video compression. If that's your only concern, I wouldn't let the "Darker Nights" setting hold you back. You can adjust gamma in the graphics settings and be able to see a silhouette fairly well.
Hi Judi, I’m planning on hardcore difficulty. Once I’m launching single torpedo from stealth on that place is coming billion of destroyers. Please share how do avoid them or how to run from them as quick as possible.
@@xljedi2335I have been using the ecosounder and chronometer to get away. Go to the bottom and hug the seabed at dead slow speed. Once you hear the fist deptcharge start chronometer rudder hard left of right go full speed 5 meters from sea bed. Reset chronometer everytime you hear an explosion. After 20 seconds from the last explosion you hear go back to hugging bottom at dead slow speed. Do all this while you are in FPP infront of the ecosounder.
Another very good video. I guess one thing I never understood about the fast 90 was that I thought you set up the TDC to 0 on the scope with your heading on a perpendicular course, 90 on AOB, distance and speed to whatever they are and then rotate the periscope so that you get a zero gyro angle and fire when the enemy ship passes the periscope wire and the torp travels straight and hits perfectly perpendicular. What is that type of shot called? I've also really appreciated all your your comments on the forums, BTW...
What you describe is also a zero gyro fast-90 attack. The only difference being that in the SH series, the TDC would update the AoB as you panned the scope. So you would set wire to 0° and then as you rotate the AoB would update. So when you panned about 10-15° the AoB would adjust to 80-85° and give the perfect zero-gyro shot. In the Type IID, with the early model TDC, the AoB doesn't update. So technically, you'd have to be on perpendicular and set your AoB to 80-85° to achieve perfection. I mentioned that the later model TDC has the AoB tracking, so when you get to the VIIB/C subs with the S-3 TDC, then it will work exactly as you described. Until you get the better TDC, just keep your shots within +/-10-20° of the zero bearing and the AoB won't be off enough to cause a miss. With the better TDC, the fast-90 setup will continue to update the AoB and you can fire the torp on any radial you want for zero or non-zero gyro targets and the solution is still correct. I'll probably go over that later in a follow-on tutorial with the better TDC.
@@xljedi2335 In the version of TDC I think you can set the fast 90 like you did but then read the lead angle on the bottom left dial. Then you can manually adjust the AoB to match that lead angle when your scope is pointed there. The gyro would then show exactly 0 and you can fire when the ship crosses the wire at the lead angle like you do with the S-3 TDC it just requires one more step.
@@MrLotengo An excellent point, thank you. To truly mimic the Fast-90 attacks of Silent Hunter, we really need the VIIC with its C-37 TDC. However, I think it's really good to learn on the S-3 TDC without that AoB tracking first. For a perfect zero-gyro on a target you'd need to enter the AoB at about 13-15° off of 90° to account for the lead angle, exactly as you suggest, for a target moving at about 7kts. I might also suggest that a good backup skill set to develop is to pre-determine the lead angle required for speeds in the range of 6 to 16 kts. Under these circumstances you could set speed to zero in the TDC, and lead the targets on your own. I call it "Gunslinger Mode". 🤠
A tip to more precise manual adjustment of the dials and knobs at the TDC - once you click and hold LMB, you can drag the mouse outside the dial or knob. This way you have finer granularity of setting the target bearing, distance or angle on bow.
I've tried dragging it all over the place. I know what you mean, but it is *still* a finicky pain. There are several elements in the UI of this game that cause players to label the experience as "clunky". This is definitely one of them. Easily fixed though if they just fixed the incremental change to whole values, or give us a text box somewhere to enter the values without having to E-lock a target.
Not sure how I randomly got recommended this video since I haven’t even thought about UBOAT in years. Seems like a good time to circle back and give the game another shot. Thanks for the tutorials I plan using what I learned.
While rotating the scope, hold shift while using A or D and it will rotate quicker, a bit like running in most FPS games.
Another awesome tutorial. Great stuff!!!
Good example of how “dark night” attacks are totally possible.
Target speed is a critical parameter. As such, that’s the last thing I check before taking my shot. That measurement with a 70 deg AOB is a lot more accurate than at a 45 deg AOB.
Concerning the use of the radial dials on the TDC: You can move the mouse cursor out of the actual dial to have a bigger radius when you hold down the left mouse button. That makes it more precise. @XL Jedi
They really need to make us able to use the mousewheel to adjust TDC parameters while hovering over them (and precise values while holding down shift).
Yeah, it's a pain. One of those things that makes you scratch your head and wonder, have the devs ever tried to use these things they have added to their game?
Yup the TDC from silent hunter auto track target AOB, which we will get on newer submarine model in this game. what i miss from silent hunter is the modded torpedo Auto Chase view mini camera.
We have a torpedo chase camera. I learned how to use it in my Patrol 1 & 2 videos.
@@xljedi2335 yes. we have to click on the torpedo in map view for chase camera. i wish the camera was automatic with a small preview like a modded silent hunter
I think for most shots historically it was this zero angle attack (dumbfire). I could be wrong but I think maybe the other angle attacks were more circumstantial. As an example you have two ships in a convoy. Set your first attack for the zero angle shot and then a 90 degree angle shot at the following vessel. Taking both shots at the same time could be an advantage if your trying to hit both and make a get away from the escorts. Maybe at some point you could try something like that with one of your future videos. Regardless, these videos are so informative and I am learning a lot. I am curious if you ever tried playing around with the hydro and try to figure out the speed and course manually or even visually. I know it would definitely slow things down considerably, but far more challenging. As you say once you know the true course it's kind of already in the bag.
In the memoirs of commanders, I don't really see where they used hydrophone TMA a lot. Often, it was the captain being called to the bridge because smoke was spotted over the horizon. In the first few chapters of Herbert Werner's memoir "Iron Coffins" I was amazed at the skill of the deck crew being able to determine the true course and speed of a zig-zagging ship just over the horizon... with nothing for a visual reference other than the tops of the masts. We can do some 4 bearing plots if you all want? The cool thing about the tools we have; we can do some TC plots without the aid of the hydrophone intercept gadget, and then use it to check our work. One thing the IRL crew had in abundance was time.
Can you believed that I Discovery by myself back in the day of SHIII this method of "fast 90"? I din't know that this was common knoledege.
Great guide!!!
If theres a destroyer b-lining your position and you point your sub bow to bow and let it get 700-500 meters, no less, you could quick 90 no gyro straight down its throat, yes? All that matter then is 0 gyro, and distance you could set angle 90 or 0 speed to 0 distance 500 and launch. Dud or miss and you're in deep shit, but its possible to clutch that shot.
A zero bearing shot is like a hole-in-one in golf. I wouldn't waste the torpedo. You would improve your chances if you had a magnetic detonator and set the torpedo to run a meter under the keel of the destroyer. The beam on those things is so narrow though, still tough to pull it off.
@@xljedi2335 "Forgot the manual, Hans! If we dont stop that destroyer, we're dead!"
It would make a cool TH-cam video, "Uboat faces down destroyer." Or "Fight or flight? Fight!" And you hit a hole in one.
If you get into a 1-on-1, or maybe even 3-to-1 tangle with ASW patrols. There is a way to possibly level the field and pick off 1 or 2 to aid your escape. I'd call it a "Knife Fight" strategy, but I suspect I'll be called out for an exploit, or non-historical accuracy.
All i can see on my 44" tv i use as a monitor is nothing lol its the one thing that is putting me off buying this
Views at night do not transfer well to YT video compression. If that's your only concern, I wouldn't let the "Darker Nights" setting hold you back. You can adjust gamma in the graphics settings and be able to see a silhouette fairly well.
Hi Judi, I’m planning on hardcore difficulty. Once I’m launching single torpedo from stealth on that place is coming billion of destroyers. Please share how do avoid them or how to run from them as quick as possible.
Well, 2/3 of the time you won't make it home alive. ...but we can definitely try to improve our chances.
@@xljedi2335I have been using the ecosounder and chronometer to get away. Go to the bottom and hug the seabed at dead slow speed. Once you hear the fist deptcharge start chronometer rudder hard left of right go full speed 5 meters from sea bed. Reset chronometer everytime you hear an explosion. After 20 seconds from the last explosion you hear go back to hugging bottom at dead slow speed. Do all this while you are in FPP infront of the ecosounder.
Another very good video. I guess one thing I never understood about the fast 90 was that I thought you set up the TDC to 0 on the scope with your heading on a perpendicular course, 90 on AOB, distance and speed to whatever they are and then rotate the periscope so that you get a zero gyro angle and fire when the enemy ship passes the periscope wire and the torp travels straight and hits perfectly perpendicular. What is that type of shot called? I've also really appreciated all your your comments on the forums, BTW...
What you describe is also a zero gyro fast-90 attack. The only difference being that in the SH series, the TDC would update the AoB as you panned the scope. So you would set wire to 0° and then as you rotate the AoB would update. So when you panned about 10-15° the AoB would adjust to 80-85° and give the perfect zero-gyro shot. In the Type IID, with the early model TDC, the AoB doesn't update. So technically, you'd have to be on perpendicular and set your AoB to 80-85° to achieve perfection. I mentioned that the later model TDC has the AoB tracking, so when you get to the VIIB/C subs with the S-3 TDC, then it will work exactly as you described. Until you get the better TDC, just keep your shots within +/-10-20° of the zero bearing and the AoB won't be off enough to cause a miss. With the better TDC, the fast-90 setup will continue to update the AoB and you can fire the torp on any radial you want for zero or non-zero gyro targets and the solution is still correct. I'll probably go over that later in a follow-on tutorial with the better TDC.
@@xljedi2335 Excellent, thank you!
@@xljedi2335 In the version of TDC I think you can set the fast 90 like you did but then read the lead angle on the bottom left dial. Then you can manually adjust the AoB to match that lead angle when your scope is pointed there. The gyro would then show exactly 0 and you can fire when the ship crosses the wire at the lead angle like you do with the S-3 TDC it just requires one more step.
@@MrLotengo An excellent point, thank you. To truly mimic the Fast-90 attacks of Silent Hunter, we really need the VIIC with its C-37 TDC. However, I think it's really good to learn on the S-3 TDC without that AoB tracking first. For a perfect zero-gyro on a target you'd need to enter the AoB at about 13-15° off of 90° to account for the lead angle, exactly as you suggest, for a target moving at about 7kts. I might also suggest that a good backup skill set to develop is to pre-determine the lead angle required for speeds in the range of 6 to 16 kts. Under these circumstances you could set speed to zero in the TDC, and lead the targets on your own. I call it "Gunslinger Mode". 🤠