If you print the internal wall of this model with the ceramic (which is porous) and the external one in resin you can pressurise the gap with air. That will create an air film that will isolate the printed material from the direct flame.
Why not make the internal walls out of metal. This way the heat will transfer better. The water cooling was a suggestion in the comments in the community tab from me 3 months ago on the Dyson jet engine.
if your water cooling, intake goes on bottom and output ontop so your device totally fills before it can empty that way you dont end up with air pockets which dont cool anything.
You don't need the intake on the bottom. There are tons of ways to get the air out. I hate to break it to you but every car is the opposite of what you say but they still get the air out. And just having the intake on the bottom doesnt mean that their won't be air bubbles either. It just makes it easier.
@@swankshire6939 i know on car turbo chargers the water cooling system is supposed to have water come in from the low side and come out from the high side if it’s tilted, also improves the cooling performance
I see where you're coming from, but I don't think that would help, because there would be an insane temperature difference between the water and the resin, and this would cause a crack.
'liquid butane to cool a combustion chamber ' Brilliant, until it happens to go wrong in the exactly right way, and the liquid becomes gas, and ignites all at once making a larger than expected fireball.. If you do the math it might really not be that bad, or it could be a terrible idea, depends on the expansion ratio.
@@ModelLights Remember. Butane by itself is not dangerous or explosive. Infact butane in a sealed container can't even catch on fire. You need a second ingredient. Oxygen. No oxygen, no fire. Thats why with propane bottles the flame doesn't just run up inside the bottle and detonate.
@@superspooky4580 When you're combusting butane inside the combustion chamber, it will have to have all necessary ingredients for combustion. When something goes wrong with the chamber and the liquid butane cooling the chamber gets out, there's also plenty of oxygen right outside. Lighters etc are relatively safe. That doesn't stop one from rarely exploding. And that would be a lot less rare if you're purposefully causing fires right outside the lighter casing instead of only in the properly designed mechanism for the lighter. This is far more likely to encounter problems than just using an already well designed and safety iterated lighter..
Hey Joel, I just noticed that the electrodes are probably causing a lot of heat transfer to the resin. Maybe try a ceramic tube or slip coating to isolate that heat from the body part.
Hey integza, I had the same idea as you a couple years back and designed a water-cooled jet engine as well, but due to not having an SLA printer i was unable to give it a try. I designed it with a spiral water cooling and perfectly sized walls so that maximum cooling would be created. If you want I can send you the files if you are interested in trying out my design. Just let me know. :) Update: Seeing as you guys like this idea, I should also add that I also designed it with tangential air and fuel inlets as to provide an extra layer of protection by creating a boundary layer of insulating air. I saw this concept used before on a 3d printed rocket and it worked to some extent.
I was just about to comment about making a spiral channel all around the chamber for the water to follow, maximizing the surface area for the cooling, as well as allowing for thinner walls that shouldn't crack since they are connected to the outside shell by the channels. nice to see that someone already thought of that idea.
Don't forget to vent your cooling loop (so that there are no air bubbles in the loop). That increases the cooling efficiency. Also you can try to utilize the fine internal structures you can create with SLA to create a unibody engine, eliminating the mount which will always be challenging to watercool. You can even do some flow simulations to find the form which best circulates the water without any hotspots. In your current solution the flow seems to not cover the whole engine.
@@CreeperOnYourHouse when working with high speed flow, bubbles won't form in static locations. They move with the flow, so if you have an aerated intake, the entire flow will have bubbles. It also means that if you fix the intake so it's pulling only water, it will flush bubbles out pretty quick. Some of tests you can see the water flow go clear, and thats what they all needed to be.
@@JerryBrower I understand this concept when using cryogenic fuel like hydrogen, but I think the expansion ratio of butane might cause some additional problems in this kind of setup. Edit: So butane's liquid to vapor expansion ratio is roughly 1/4 that of hydrogen, so while it's it's significantly lower, it's still 233:1. With thin plastic walls, I think you would still probably run into failures in the wall from gas expansion.
As someone who works with liquid hydrocarbon on the daily, I just about had a heart attack when you said you were going to use it as coolant for a sparking fireball engine
To be fair, passing the fuel through tubes lining the combustion chamber or nozzle is exactly how many (if not most) liquid fuel rockets keep those components cool. With a better design that reduces heat transfer/concentration to the plastic components, and ensures better flow of the coolant for more uniform cooling, I suspect Integza's engine would have worked fine.
@@ericgoldman7533 the difference being that the rocket engine is made of metal and that the fuel can’t burn in unintended places ( unless the oxidizer leaks or the fault happens very early )
Reminds me of the time one of the guys at the workshop tried to cool some overheated angle grinder with his butane welding torch. It was still plugged in.
if the resevoir is higher than the water jacket, it will vastly increase the efficiency of cooling because the air bubbles will be able to travel up to the res and leave the system. that frothy mix of water and air in the water jacket is really bad at conducting heat
Some Ideas: 1.) Run the engine “fuel rich” so that it can’t burn the plastic as well. 2.) Machine a Graphite Nozzle (and maybe other parts (combustion cylinder, diffuser disk) if that doesn’t work on it’s own) 3) As others have suggested, optimize the coolant loop (better path design, less bubbles, maybe even a faster pump / more volume; a bunch of cool 3d printed pump designs exist too, that could maybe be a video in of itself!) 4) Cool the water down with ice (and maybe even salt water to get it even colder, although I don’t know how that would effect the plastic, and what would happen if it gets in contact with the fire) 5.) Do the vortex cooling as well? (I don’t know much about this method, but it sounds like combining the two may be good!) 6.) Use Gaskets 7.) Use fine metal mesh as a flashback arrestor, or maybe even a commercial flashback arrestor like they use for Oxy-Fuel torches! 8.) Fancier Injector Design to Make Sure you are having things mix well That’s about all the ideas i have, and it was a great video as always!
Also there's a way to use fine metal shavings (usually bronze) instead of a fine metal net to prevent flashback. This shavings usually look like "metal wool". As I understand, some commercial solutions use this way.
Also needs dissipation of heat. If the water he's cooling the engine with becomes too hot, then there is no point in using it since it will no longer do it's job. You said ice, and in the end would work similarly, but it would be just as limited, because it's not permanent and the ice will eventually melt. A heatsink/radiator would be the way to go.
You can also check out Scott Manley's video on fuel injectors. They're a bit more complicated, but the fuel and oxidizer (or air in this instance) wouldn't mix until they're already in the combustion chamber
I noticed the threaded rods for the spark are going to absorb a lot of heat and cause issues. Maybe they could be inserted from behind or somehow insulate them from the inner chamber wall. Increasing the volume of the water chamber would be a good idea too.
I got the impression that the engines might have worked a bit better if you pumped the water in on the bottom and out the top. That way the water would carry all the air out with it as it exit. It seems to me that the engines failed at the top and that might have been because there was little cooling there with all the air trapped in the upper part.
It would help distribute the thermal load for sure but I feel that with the metal base plate heating up as much as it does the melting problem would only be delayed.
@@NarutoMagicCyclops maybe he can 3D print the flanges thicker (edit: and with hollow insides) to watercool the front and rear of where the plate touches lol
@@server642 It's possible especially if he just wants to create the effect of the engine, the bulkiness of such a system and having more failure points would be a headache and half though. Frankly just goes to show how bad plastic/resin is for thermal conductivity and load not to mention how typically brittle the system is to explosive power. Softer plastices might be able to survive a bit better but you'd lose pressure as it wouldn't be stiff enough at that point and theres generally not much you can do about the thermal qualities.
Try to make a controller, this is what we actually use even in the early stages of jet engine builds. This helps a lot to understand what is going on inside the engine and by comparing this data with your design and materials used, you will know what is the problem and how exactly it can be solved. Helps to minimize the time you waste on prototypes and obviously the cost of materials used. the most basic one would include at least 2 thermal sensors (we use 2 at each stage of the engine for better results, but it's not really necessary for your needs), in your case 1 would be used inside the engine and the other one on the nozzle (just an example, you can play with it), AR sensor that would show the exact mixture (this will allow making it more efficient (by that I not only mean consumption but also temperatures (that are quite important in your case) (because the good mixture will decrease temperatures of combustion), air flow sensors (show the speeds of intake air etc.) and the last but not least is flow/consumption sensor (but it mostly used for liquid fuels, so not sure if it would be helpful for you. (If needed can help with code etc.) thank you for your videos.
I think you should make a nice pair of safety glasses to protect your eyes from exploding plastic jet engines. After that you could look into cooling jet engines with something like liquid nitrogen.
there was way too much air in the water cooling loop. at least in the first few trys. I think thats the most likely reason why the last try was so successful. and if you want to improve the cooling further, instead of redicing the wall thickness, try increasing the surface area. adding fins within the water channel would help tremendously. and why not watercool the diffuser as well? get water close to that metal from both sides to keep that one cool as well and I think this could work really well.
Because plastic is a thermal insulator so fins wouldn't help they would hinder. The balloon doesn't burst because the layer of plastic between the flame and the water is extremely thin so the plastic makes a poor thermal insulator. With a 3D printed model the plastic is much thicker and so becomes a thermal insulator. The heat cannot conduct through the plastic fast enough to dissipate so one side melts and burns while the other side is cold. Adding fins wouldn't help it would just be adding sections of really thick walls.
@@benfubbs2432 I was thinking along the same lines. He needs a better thermal conductor on the interior layers. Something akin to a different thermo-plastic that is more heat conducive. I believe there are some conductive resins he could try or even adding some metal filings to his resin mix would probably be worth a try as well. If he can get that heat in contact with the heat sink then it should, hopefully, work out. =)
Fins work with metal because it conducts heat quickly but also dissipates it. Plastics on the other hand insulate and the thicker it is, the more it builds up and this build up of heat along with it's issue of not wanting to dissipate it is the problem. So the thing is, wall thickness needs to be reduced to next to nothing in which case weakens it in terms of potential pressures generated even if cooling were working at that point.
The problem here is really the bad heat conductivity of plastic/resin. You can see that any part of the engine which is exposed to hot gas and not in very close proximity to water gets burned.
I would say so. I would also apply some basic design concepts of industrial heat exchangers. I have seen some comments hinting on that. But broken down I would say you need a bottom intake and top exit, with some flow direction like he tried with the butan. Ad to that a closed water cycle, a more potent pump and more pressure. Maybe let the cooling agent flow through an additional external heat exchanger to reduce the speed with which heat is building up in the water. For that I would use an air cooler, which, in this case, would be a 3D printed pipe with cooling rips. This would be light weight and easy to implement. Also it extends the duration of the cooling, before the cooling agent gets to hot to do its job properly.
Some improvements that I can think of straight away: 1. Make sure the water inlet is from the bottom and therefore has a more continuous area of contact with the resin when under temperature stress. 2. A higher pressure of cooling may be required due to what seems to be melting points happening at the point of one of the cooling in/outlet. Maybe reinforce this area with small vanes to distribute that water evenly. Also maybe get a thermometer to test the temperature of the water in vs out to see how well it is working. 3. Use tomato juice to assert your cooling dominance ;)
Actually... Liquid like water (vs compressed gas) should flow from Top to Bottom, because gravity can help out, but also will hopefully help keep air away from the inner walls of any gets trapped/sucked in. Speaking of air, that could be why it was failing on some of those instances, if any was trapped inside. I couldn't quite tell from the footage, but I would suggest: - using a bigger reservoir for starters - filled with ice cubes** - mounting it higher than the engine - have it run for a few minutes before ignition, to make sure all air has been purged from the cooling galleries ** this might not work well, same with any super-chilled liquid like butane or CO2, due to the cold combustion chamber walls getting "shocked" by the heat of the burning fuel; maybe not though, all purely speculation on my part!
Yes you should most certainly use tomato blood for cooling. Also the idea of feeding the tomato blood from bottom to top sounds like a good idea too. I think you will have less heat transfer if you use stainless steel screen to prevent flashback of the flame front. Add to that some ceramic slip around the edge as a gasket between the screen and the housing. Oh and then a ceramic nozzle might be useful too. Integza, I love this channel! Your passion and drive are very inspiring. Keep up the great work. I know you will be successful!!!!
I know IR can't see through glass - kinda cool actually, it acts like a mirror so you can see your heat reflecting. You'd probably only get the exterior temperature and the heat from the exhaust. Worth trying though, especially with how affordable FLIR cameras are these days. My CAT S62 smartphone has one built in.
A simple improvement would be have the water enter from the bottom to the top, other little things is have the water jacket have a larger cavity at the top as well as a larger outlet to allow the heated water and importantly steam to escape easier. The complicated improvement is to have the water enter the chamber to cool internal components as well as using the steam as added thrust mass.
Hey Integza! Heres something that might help, try offsetting the inlet and exit of the water axially such that it creates a sort of "swirl" flow around the chamber, so that the water evenly distrubutes around the combustion chamber (maybe even a spiraling channel). I noticed a few stagnant water spots on the top side of the chamber, and a rather large air bubble at one point, and I belive that is where the inner wall initially failed. Using offset inlet and exits to create a spiral flow to evenly distribute the (moving) water around the engine would greatly help with that! Also sidenote you are one of my biggest inspirations! I absolutely love your projects!
This sounds like a really good idea. It could be seen in a few shots the water didn't always do much more than stagnate at the height of the inlet/outlet, so it'd probably help to offset them by 180 as well to try and encourage the flow to get all the way around the chamber.
Love it! I had recommended water cooling over a year back, so glad to finally see it attempted. Oh, and using the fuel to cool the engine is pretty much what NASA used to do, they cooled the bell nozzle (and I think the chamber) with the fuel before sending it into the chamber. Of course, they had a much higher flow and systems that could handle MUCH higher pressures, so it might not be a great idea to implement in plastic.
I just had a thought - if he DID use liquid nitrogen, could it have gotten the combustion chamber cold enough that his fuel would precipitate back into a liquid?
Very impressive. Two thoughts on improving the design: 1) use hi-temp rtv silicone gasket material between the two halves and the diffuser sheet to seal the leaks. 2) you might consider putting vanes in the water jacket to swirl the water around between the inlet and outlets to make sure you don't have air or steam pockets in your water jacket.
@@omri.d lowering the speed of water seems worse for heat transfer because of convection. It would maintain higher temperature difference between the source and sink and cool the engine better. But that's my intuition as an engineer. Someone more specialised can speculate and give more advice on the cooling and such
Put the water inlet at the bottom and the outlet at the top, pump the water upwards. It'll remove all the bubbles and completely fill the cooling chamber. Your problem could be hot spots forming when the water boils or has bubbles in it. And for a less explosive coolant, try car antifreeze. Although I do like how when the engine fails it puts itself out.
You'd want the water being pumped from above since airs natural affinity to rise in water would trap it before makes it to said parts you're trying to cool. Antifreeze inhibits freezing and boiling but you do lose some cooling capacity in doing so. distilled water with a higher flow rate and keeping air out of the cooling chambers is going to do better than antifreeze. That said I think you can use a certain thin additive to prevent boiling without as much effect to the cooling capacity as antifreeze but the issue with antifreeze and other such additives, they may likely damage the plastic as these resins aren't made to be chemically resistant.
If it was good enough, it could be marketed for producing yummy tomato paste. Heyy, a water-cooled tomato paste maker. Enjoy your streetmeat hotdog sandwiches while the rest of us enjoy pizza.
Instead of using a diaphragm, and the defusing chamber, it may help to have everything water cooled. So if it is printed in one piece with the oxygen being pumped in from the back inside a cone, and the butane being pumped in from the perimeter ~1” away from the back. The gasses should mix well, and you can have water cooling. Also, place the inlet for the water cooling at the lowest point, and the outlet at the highest point of the design, to ensure water equally flows across everything.
You should try the lost PLA aluminum casting method! You can 3d print the parts then turn them into aluminum. A forge capable of melting aluminum is very easy to make!
@@adriankoch964 I wonder if he could use thin copper pipe and imbed it in the cast. The copper shouldn’t melt and that way he doesn’t have to do any fancy casting to create a cavity
I'm really glad you make these videos as you so, it's super fun and I learn a lot for both you and the comments. Cheers mate P.s don't use liquid butane to cool a fire!! That's really dangerous the amount that's going through!! You could try having it so that the water comes in the bottom and has to take a longer path around the jet, think of a spiral from front to back.. water flowing over every surface. Keep it up! P.P.S a radiator in an ice water bucket would be more effective for cooling then flammable liquids and gasses
The ("cold") water intake for the engine should be from the bottom, and the ("warm/hot") water outlet/output should be from the top. This is how it is done in distillers.
It should be cold ingress towards the diaphragm on top, with hot water egress on the bottom at the tail. Otherwise heated is propagating towards the diaphragm instead of away from it. Otherwise great suggestion👍🏻
I still think that the "cold intake" should be at the bottom, with the "hot output" being at the highest point. My thinking behind this is that it will allow the water to fill up, and minimize "empty spots"
It's really interesting to see how far 3d printing can take these designs. Still get nervous seeing you without even safety glasses when you're testing the rockets, though, lol.
3:53 I was scared for a moment that it was about to explode and blind you. Safety first! Goggles may not save your face, but they'll at least save your eyes. Annnnnd 10:05 I'm not saying this to demean you. I just really love watching your content. Being blind makes engineering harder.
Usually I don't like all the safety Nazi's in the comments. But this time I am one of them. Combustion, plastic, and no eye protection is makings for a blind here after.
You can improve the cooling eficiency with the inlet and outlet tangential to the chamber. Give them an offset to have a virtual cooling coil. The water will have more speed and take more heat. For the video Idea, I've always being curious about cyclocopters. You can 3D print 90% of the parts and they are a bit unknown
You should make the inside wall out of thin sheet metal, it would be thin and conductive enough to get cooled down quickly enough by the water, and it would also be much more resistant to the exploision pressure, it should also be pretty easy to make with simple tools.
I think the reason why you're getting on/off combustion is lack of airflow. Combustion needs a lot of air, and that air needs to behave correctly (not too fast or it'll blow out the flame). The first change I'd suggest is a system to convert air from a compressor to what goes into the engine.
A great idea would be to actually test all your rockets like with a thrust measurer to find the best one and then try to make a controllable vehicle with it maybe a miniature car.
Video ideia: "I 3D printed rocket nozzles to better water my garden!" Would be awesome to see you print the differents types off rockets nozzle and even the engines from previous videos and adapt it to the end of a hose, so we could see witch one is better to water a garden: the Aerospike nozzle, the De Laval nozzle, maybe something like a Golden Ration nozzle (will the water go all directions because of the shape of it?), maybe a Dyson Fan nozzle? And you could use 1L of water all times, to see not only the further it can go, but witch one use less water
Which one could shoot longer jets? Which one produces a bigger water cone? Can any one produce a better flow of water without turbulent water? Stuff like that
all models leaked initially at the attachment portion. ~ add thick rubber seal on both sides of the metal screen then bolt together. YOUR VIDEO AS ALWAYS IS SO SICK MAN!!! the leak is preventing an efficient startup leading to a partial vaccum adding small portions of fuel to be lost as well as oxygen weakening your startup . the misfires are causing ur heat . AMAZING really when u think of other factor creating the heat - a dam jet of fire!!!! THICKEN the walls at attatchment and add an interior and exterior O ring inside and outside of the bolts to have redundency in your seal! INSANE WORK.
Try having the internal cooling wrap around in a spiral, like wrapping a wire around a nail. Also try to have your diffuser have liquid cooling as well, maybe with two pieces that come out that attach to a cooling system
I think it would work if you used something like a soda can / tin can for the inner layer, it's way stronger and has better thermal conductivity on top of being a lot thinner.
That's a good idea. The combustion chamber wall definitely needs to be thinner and I just don't see resin transferring heat well enough to work in this project.
Can I just say, from my experience of doing a VERY similar thing with butane.... you are SO lucky that ended like THAT..... It evaporates very quickly but you could have had the biggest fireball you've ever experienced in your life inside your shop right there lol..... Glad you're safe man!
@@darthdiamo6902 Facts! Every time I avoid death or serious injury I kind of just sit there for a sec and go "welp, not gonna do THAT ever again"...Anyone who either works in a dangerous line of work or just tends to make generally stupid decisions on a regular basis knows that we take these luck endings with pride and LEARN from them lol.
Cool video! One idea is to make the plastic flanges hollow in the middle and seal them against the metal plate with o rings. This way the water cooling can also cool the metal plate and stop it from melting the housing.
Try keeping air out of the water. Air is way more insulating than water, so it is working against you. Also, using small flaps or hairs in the engine where the water flows would increase the surface area of water touching the engine, thus increasing the cooling speed. Edit: grammar Edit: I was thinking of vacuum insulation, not air
I agree with the of removing air pockets. I think flow should be as laminar as possible to maxime heat transfer. But i think adding flaps will introduce cavitation. Reducing laminar flow and creating air pockets.
@@TheModerateNewb as long as the system is closed off from air, it shouldn't make air pockets, but it would introduce more turbulent flow. Increasing the surface area is how radiators work and is also one of the ways car engines dissipate heat through aluminum sheets.
Integza could you try to solder a brass tube around the metal defucer and run water to cool the plate before it touches the plastic interface ring? this should cool your last failure location. the cold water should protect the solder holding the tube to the plate from melting. also add some salt to your water and make it colder, the salt as you know will prevent the water from freezing at lower than 0 c.
love this design how about making the holes in the diffuser smaller so the velocity of the air/gas mix is increased so the flame doesn't burn in contact with the diffuser. You could also extend the water jacket into the flange so you have edge cooling on the diffuser.
Love this water-cooled design - now you should try to increase the cooling surface area within the water channel (ribs/ridges etc)... and maybe consider a heat exchanger to lower the temp of the cooler/working fluid?
This already has the best possible cooling for the engine, plastic is less conductive than the water, so using ribs or ridges would only make it less effective. The water in the bowl has enough thermal capacity that its probably not even heating up more than a few degrees with each test, and you could solve even that by just taking a larger bucket.
Your 3d printed jet engines are one of my favorite things to watch on TH-cam. Have you ever thought about trying to 3d print a working Stirling engine?
Integza, to prevent combustion back propagating, you probably need more pressure in your air and fuel intakes! Also, maybe combine this with the ceramic resin?
Greetings, It may be a stupid solution, but why not do it all in one piece and cool the whole thing, That can be easily done with the resin printer. Also add fins on the inside of the cooling ducts, that would decrease the thermal resistance between the combustion chamber and the liquid, I recommend adding fins on both sides (I recommend you take a look at the inside of some liquid cooling cooldplate for power semiconductor or LEDs, an interesting paper on the subject: "Advanced Cooling for Power Electronics"). Another possible improvement I see is to improve the thermal conductivity of the material, if I am not mistaken the resin you use is between 0.3-0.4 W/m*k, a solution may be the use of a ceramic resin that will have about 3-4 W/m*k, or directly use iron powder particles or some material that conducts the temperature well.
Idea for future video: Hey Integza. Make combustion chamber from aluminium can, watercool it. Just 3d print outer casing. To make a nozzle you can use metal garden coupler.
Awesome idea, loving the vid so far. *Some feedback, from someone who's water cooled PCs for longer than I'd care to admit* Your water is full of air, it's hard on the pump and reduces your cooling potential. In this simple loop, your reservoir would be the logical place to bleed out air. - Set the reservoir up above the pump, highest point in the system if possible - Outlet on bottom of res - Res OUT tube straight down, if possible - Ensure the Res has enough water to prevent air intake - Add a baffle or space the reservoir IN/OUT far enough away, so that circulated air is not pulled back into the loop - Run the system for a few seconds before ignition Additionally, water blocks tend to use a pressure plate and fin system, to ensure water passes evenly across the entire cooling surface. I've only watched about a third, but I'd wager the baffle you added to the cooling Inlet did nothing, except maybe make it harder to bleed the system. Turn your pump speed down initially, preferably use a soft start or something. It's likely with your current design, that much if the water is stagnant. I'd suggest a design that forces the water across the entire cooling surface, eg. by using channels EDIT: Instead of using explosive coolant, like a madman, put ice in your reservoir.
@@slimsqde7397 The aeration certainly isn't helping, but I think that the limiting factor is the thermal conductivity, or lack thereof, of the resin. Resin is like, 0.5% the conductivity of copper, so the amount of heat transferred will drop dramatically with thickness, hence why the thin walled vessel worked much better. Finding a balance of the thinnest wall, for better heat transfer, but strong enough to not rupture under the pressure would be the key. I think a series of small pins that connect the inner and outer shells, small enough to not impede heat transfer meaningfully, but large and numerous enough to help keep it rigid, would be a good test.
Congrats Integza! You build yourself a butan powered gas heater! But also an Idea: put steelwool in front of the metall diaframe. It is used in gas welders for example, and it prevents gas knockback. So it would prevent in your case, that the explsoion goes back into your diffuser. Therefore the stress on it is lower, and there is less heat. Also you could than also cool the steelwool, and therefore prevent the joint from melting. Sorry for my englisch, I'm from germany.
You could try making a device to always have a stochiometric ratio for your combustion, so you can more focus on the engine itself rather than trying to make the mixture correct at each try. Btw love all your videos, keep it up!
Stoichiometric burn is not ideal when you are fighting combustion chamber overheating; stoich burns too hot. Rocket engines, for example, basically never run stoichiometrically.
@@kebha6308 I thought stoichiometric reactions just had low amounts of biproducts. Yes that means more heat, but it increases efficiency and much more importantly stability. If fluctuation between the amount of reactants and products changes constantly, you get the explosions at the start where not enough butane gas flow is occurring. This results in all the butane combusting and flashback, causing the diffuser to experience heat and pressure spikes.
@@kebha6308 assuming you arent running stoichiometric burns, doesnt different nozzle sizes, nozzle angle, chamber sizes all effect the desired ratio of reactions?
@@sezylrin4138 not at the pressures you see in rocket and jet engines. I mean, all those factors should have a small effect (look at the Saturn V F-1 engines having combustion instability due to its size) but it's not a death sentence for the engine at all. Altitude should be the biggest differentiator in FAR in turbo engines that don't have their own oxidizer. His fuel flow and air intake system just isn't sufficient.
I would love to see you tackle a turbo prop engine. It's the perfect mix of propeller AND combustion jet engine. The prop even feeds the air into the compressor for the jet engine. It's such a cool design. In terms of water cooling, I think the basic principal you have is sound, but you might want to look into the water jackets used on machine guns in the second world war. The way the water was fed and drained is designed to completely surround the hot component. I think having the inlet and drain opposite each other is restricting the amount of cooling reaching the entire chamber. You see this where the plate gets hot in only one area, and how when the inner wall cracked, it was at the points where there was the highest heat differential.
I think i have a fix for this engine. I saw it always melted on the top where there was less water. You need canals to spread the water evenly around the engine. Maybe some sort of spiral canal? And for the metal part you could simply make it bigger so it stands out of the engine and place some cooling on it. That should also cool the metal part inside the chamber because metal is a good heat conductor.
As a science teacher, I have actually done the balloon demonstration in the classroom before. It is a great way to show the properties of different materials conducting heat! With that same idea, try using a different metal for the joints and defuser, one that has a better heat capacity. That way tbe defuser can get hot but it will not radiate heat to the joints and melt it. I would suggest aluminium.
Hey Integza, nice job! Just a very simple idea about the coolant: try having the water flow from the bottom to the top part of your nozzle. That way you are making sure to always have the coolant compartment full of water and you avoid all the trapped air bubbles you had in the video (the same way it's being done with coolant in chemistry). Looking forward to the next one!
Was just going to say the same, you either make the flow go against gravity or place an orifice on the exit to restrict the flow and make sure the water doesn't run faster than the pump can push
you dont have enough pressure before the injector plate(defuser) thats why it explodes in the first chamber. try using oxygen with your fuel so it has a better mix at higher pressure. you need that higher pressure at the injector. The butane isnt a bad idea, thats how a lot of rockets cool their nozzle and it preheats the fuel before going into the injector for better preformance
Next time try to print a water canal in the style of a screw tread, it will add stucture to the combustion chamber and will help with the movement of the hot water! Maybe try to add water cooling with the liquid butane too! Keep up the good work! Love your content!
You continue to impress! I really want to see what you could in a higher budget project. It would be great if you could find a sponsor willing to fund a high budget multi stage rocket.
This is some suggestions for modifications to do in future videos to get better performance: - You can use bluff bodies to mix air with fuel in better way. you can try disk, sphere, cone, swirl, .. with different dimensions and it's used before ignition so you can maybe just 3d print them - You need nozzle to accelerate the flow to get better performance and you can also use carbon fiber as you did in pulse jet engine to create them on 3d printed molds - Also to check the air to fuel ratio you can use oxygen sensor on the exhaust as done on cars to see either you are running lean or rich and which will give better performance - You can also use small amount of the exhaust to heat up fuel before injected And for sure to do all of that you need to build test rig some how to measure the output from the engine. Not just to compare between different modifications but also to compare the between the input and output power
for another video, I think you should make another Hybrid motor. as you've had issues with the whole melting thing I'd recommend making an ablative liner for the throat and nozzle. if you look up halfcatrocketry, they have one that isn't too difficult to make called CHAMBERAFE. also, if you go looking there's a good few things that can help you find an ideal throat area for a given chamber pressure. with hybrids, your chamber pressure and thus overall thrust can vary substantially due to the burning rate of the grain and its geometry, Rocket Propulsion elements by George Sutton and Oscar Biblarz has some good resources to help with this and stuff for basically everything else I've mentioned so far. I hope everything continues to go well for you and have a nice day! thanks for the amazing videos
A gasket to keep conducted heat from the metal part from the plastic might help and isn't really cheating as most 'rubber' in washers and gaskets has been synthetic for 60+ years How about making pnematic power tools that work off a water supply?
The fan showdown but for jet engine designs, i fully support this idea! people online come up with some crazy ways to do things and some work really well.
@@ikitclaw7146 that show is exactly what I’m talking about. Thank You for mentioning it. I checked it out and it’s so amazing! I’m only on the eighth episode, but I’m binging on it right now. I absolutely love the creativity.
You should use a newton meter on your engines, so we can rank how effective they are. And how much small changes in design will differentiate the thrust. It would be fun to see your progress in making them more effective after each project! :)
The easiest and most robust way is probably with a stand that's on a pivot, with the axle a meter or so away. The whole thing can be made out of wood very cheaply, with a load cell from broken kitchen scales. With this design, you can place the cell anywhere along the lever to get whatever ratio you want on the cell.
An idea or two: Make a path that the water has to travel around the engine so it is always moving the water around every part equally. You can also pipe the water around the diffuser and run it around like with the engine to keep it cooled. By using small walls to control the water, you also increase the strength to of the engine compared to the no walls design. Another part of this would be to make a bump from wall to wall to increase the surface area the water is in contact with, increasing the amount of heat it can pull away at any given point in time. Edit: the problem that happened with the butane was that it doesn’t have a high specific heat meaning it was turning into a gas in the inner walls thus expanding and busting through to the inner engine to then expand again. The reason why water is good for cooling is not only that it conducts heat well but also stores heat until it can leave the system. The water wasn’t vaporizing so it can probably be in the system for a longer time than it was here to keep cooling the system.
Fun fact, some rocket engines are liquid cooled in a way similar to the liquid butane attempt, it's known as Staged Combustion and it also helps with efficiency since it preheats the fuel before ignition.
@Integza, u can extend this series by changing the flow design. Try to keep the area of the flow space equal while keeping the surface to the heat source and sink as large as possible: A_{in} = pi * r ^ 2 = n * pi * r ^ 2 = n * A_{n, out}, or A_{in} = pi * r ^ 2 = n * h * w = n * A_{n, out} I suggest you make a helical shaped water cooler. I suggest a ratio of 1 to 5 (n = 5).
You should try to make a turbojet engine that runs on hydrogen peroxide and a catalyst. This way you don't need to use heat-resistant materials or compressor blades.
Wouldn't it be interesting if you made a sheet with the thrust/torque of all of your creations, I think it would be fun to compare everything you've made. Also, how hard would it be to make an ion thruster?
idea with butane was awesome!!!! the only problem you had was with the start up procedure 1 when starting up you use butane gas after startup you tilt the butane bottle and let liquid flow 2 IMPORTANT!! - when you tilt you turn down butane flow because liquid has much more density than gas
A cool idea I could think off is trying out all your differnt engines and seeing which has the most thrust and some different challenges for your engines.
For a future video, you could build a TURBOFAN engine, a jet engine with a rotor in carbon fiber like you already did, it would be a jet engine similar as the engines of planes today and it would provice thrust. You could use metal sheets to build the compressors. Please like this comment if you want to see a video of this project too
Try placing the reservoir above the engine to get the air out better. Also place the water outlet at the top of the engine so the whole compartment is exposed to water
I thought that using liquid butane to cool the engine was a joke, until you tried it. 10/10 but I'm subtracting 6 points for lack of safety glasses. Being blind is no good 4/10
Video suggestion: You should make an HHO generator (oxyhydrogen generator) and power a rocket with the fuel would be cool to see you make your own fuel to power your rockets
Alex Lab has a great video on this. The video is called 'High pressure electrolyzer. Detailed DIY guide'. It worked so well, he powered his dirt bike with it.
Maybe you should try to add some heat insulation between the metal and the resin body, while extending the diaphram so it can cool down with surrounding air. Great video!!!
Ideia: How about to create a portable shower that use butane to heat the water inside it and you could use it whatever you want? Example: if I want to go on a trail and take a hot shower just by the river, you just need a “3D printed” shower that you can plug a small butane tank and use some batteries to ignite then and heat the water! It could be a really nice product!!!
I have a suggestion: Why not feed the butane from the outlet of the cooling system back into the combustion chamber since most of the liquid butane would've turned to gas at that point(the butane can be used as both fuel nad collant!). most of the rocket engines which use cryogenic fluids as fuel use this technique to cool the nozzle down
You should continue making that engine and then make a collab with ProjectAir or Ramy RC and make an airplane with this. I think that with a better nozzle and a bit better cooling and design of the metal part you should be able to make a reliable engine that generates some thrust. Also you could try to use a more heat conductive material on the inside, so the heat will be better transfered to the water. Edit: I forgot to mention that you have a lot of air in the water pipes. That makes the cooling much worse.
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Sure
If you print the internal wall of this model with the ceramic (which is porous) and the external one in resin you can pressurise the gap with air. That will create an air film that will isolate the printed material from the direct flame.
Next Time drilling you could use a backboard when making holes in thin sheets. It helps immensly.
Also please clamp down your workpiece!
Why not make the internal walls out of metal. This way the heat will transfer better. The water cooling was a suggestion in the comments in the community tab from me 3 months ago on the Dyson jet engine.
A similar technique is used for the blades of gas turbine
if your water cooling, intake goes on bottom and output ontop so your device totally fills before it can empty that way you dont end up with air pockets which dont cool anything.
This is a great point, I didn't think about that. Liking so it gets moved higher up.
You don't need the intake on the bottom. There are tons of ways to get the air out. I hate to break it to you but every car is the opposite of what you say but they still get the air out.
And just having the intake on the bottom doesnt mean that their won't be air bubbles either. It just makes it easier.
@@swankshire6939 i know on car turbo chargers the water cooling system is supposed to have water come in from the low side and come out from the high side if it’s tilted, also improves the cooling performance
Same idea
Or put an orifice on the return line to keep pressure.
Try this with a aquarium water chiller to keep temps even lower. Tomatoes are disgusting!
you could also try to mix in graphite into the resin with the water chiller
Or just ice water..
ltt vibes
I see where you're coming from, but I don't think that would help, because there would be an insane temperature difference between the water and the resin, and this would cause a crack.
@@oneflamey3234 The idea would be to pre chill the resin. Keep the water running through it before the jet starts.
I can't believe you used liquid butane to cool a combustion chamber made of plastic, that was brilliant! 😂
P. S. : that keyboard is filthy!
It is called regenerative cooling, actually pretty common with rocket engines.
'liquid butane to cool a combustion chamber ' Brilliant, until it happens to go wrong in the exactly right way, and the liquid becomes gas, and ignites all at once making a larger than expected fireball..
If you do the math it might really not be that bad, or it could be a terrible idea, depends on the expansion ratio.
Beat me to it on the keyboard
@@ModelLights Remember. Butane by itself is not dangerous or explosive. Infact butane in a sealed container can't even catch on fire. You need a second ingredient. Oxygen. No oxygen, no fire. Thats why with propane bottles the flame doesn't just run up inside the bottle and detonate.
@@superspooky4580 When you're combusting butane inside the combustion chamber, it will have to have all necessary ingredients for combustion. When something goes wrong with the chamber and the liquid butane cooling the chamber gets out, there's also plenty of oxygen right outside.
Lighters etc are relatively safe. That doesn't stop one from rarely exploding. And that would be a lot less rare if you're purposefully causing fires right outside the lighter casing instead of only in the properly designed mechanism for the lighter.
This is far more likely to encounter problems than just using an already well designed and safety iterated lighter..
Hey Joel, I just noticed that the electrodes are probably causing a lot of heat transfer to the resin. Maybe try a ceramic tube or slip coating to isolate that heat from the body part.
There's a high voltage going through them from the tesla coil, but not current. The rods i think should remain fairly cool
@@ZenBeepBop But what about the combustion going on? Would not it heat the rods?
@@ZenBeepBop The electrodes inside the combustion chamber will be heated by the burning fuel and transfer heat down their length.
Hey integza, I had the same idea as you a couple years back and designed a water-cooled jet engine as well, but due to not having an SLA printer i was unable to give it a try. I designed it with a spiral water cooling and perfectly sized walls so that maximum cooling would be created. If you want I can send you the files if you are interested in trying out my design. Just let me know. :)
Update: Seeing as you guys like this idea, I should also add that I also designed it with tangential air and fuel inlets as to provide an extra layer of protection by creating a boundary layer of insulating air. I saw this concept used before on a 3d printed rocket and it worked to some extent.
Like this up guys!!!
yep
I want to see this. Hope integza does
I was just about to comment about making a spiral channel all around the chamber for the water to follow, maximizing the surface area for the cooling, as well as allowing for thinner walls that shouldn't crack since they are connected to the outside shell by the channels.
nice to see that someone already thought of that idea.
Bro is an actual time traveler, subtly trying to advance humanity 😲
The butane coolant was a great idea. It was perfectly effective at producing content
I mean, it might have worked if he had purged the chamber first
Why dont we cool it,
With fuel
The idea is actually sound. Some rocket engines run the fuel through the engine bells to keep them cool.
@@Mikowmer but those are thoroughly reinforced and aren’t made of resin
@@quakxy_dukx it might be because integza is thinking of making things way ahead of what he has atm lol
Don't forget to vent your cooling loop (so that there are no air bubbles in the loop). That increases the cooling efficiency. Also you can try to utilize the fine internal structures you can create with SLA to create a unibody engine, eliminating the mount which will always be challenging to watercool. You can even do some flow simulations to find the form which best circulates the water without any hotspots. In your current solution the flow seems to not cover the whole engine.
This is really important - the bubbles allowing a few hot spots to form probably caused a few of the failures
The parts that failed didn't seem to fail in the places where bubbles would form, i.e. at the top of the part.
@@CreeperOnYourHouse when working with high speed flow, bubbles won't form in static locations. They move with the flow, so if you have an aerated intake, the entire flow will have bubbles. It also means that if you fix the intake so it's pulling only water, it will flush bubbles out pretty quick. Some of tests you can see the water flow go clear, and thats what they all needed to be.
@@kuhljager2429 that pump he's using is most definitely not high speed.
@@JerryBrower I understand this concept when using cryogenic fuel like hydrogen, but I think the expansion ratio of butane might cause some additional problems in this kind of setup.
Edit: So butane's liquid to vapor expansion ratio is roughly 1/4 that of hydrogen, so while it's it's significantly lower, it's still 233:1. With thin plastic walls, I think you would still probably run into failures in the wall from gas expansion.
As someone who works with liquid hydrocarbon on the daily, I just about had a heart attack when you said you were going to use it as coolant for a sparking fireball engine
boom
Yeah I don't know anything about flammable stuff other than plastic and fire and more flammable stuff is a good way to get yourself killed
To be fair, passing the fuel through tubes lining the combustion chamber or nozzle is exactly how many (if not most) liquid fuel rockets keep those components cool. With a better design that reduces heat transfer/concentration to the plastic components, and ensures better flow of the coolant for more uniform cooling, I suspect Integza's engine would have worked fine.
@@ericgoldman7533 the difference being that the rocket engine is made of metal and that the fuel can’t burn in unintended places ( unless the oxidizer leaks or the fault happens very early )
Reminds me of the time one of the guys at the workshop tried to cool some overheated angle grinder with his butane welding torch. It was still plugged in.
if the resevoir is higher than the water jacket, it will vastly increase the efficiency of cooling because the air bubbles will be able to travel up to the res and leave the system. that frothy mix of water and air in the water jacket is really bad at conducting heat
Pretty’s sure the cloudyness was resin left over on the inside of the part because you can see at one point in the video the water is clear
Reid valve off a two stroke might work
@Gray Man 🅥 you rick rolled me with a clickbait comment and a cat video cringe
Some Ideas:
1.) Run the engine “fuel rich” so that it can’t burn the plastic as well.
2.) Machine a Graphite Nozzle (and maybe other parts (combustion cylinder, diffuser disk) if that doesn’t work on it’s own)
3) As others have suggested, optimize the coolant loop (better path design, less bubbles, maybe even a faster pump / more volume; a bunch of cool 3d printed pump designs exist too, that could maybe be a video in of itself!)
4) Cool the water down with ice (and maybe even salt water to get it even colder, although I don’t know how that would effect the plastic, and what would happen if it gets in contact with the fire)
5.) Do the vortex cooling as well? (I don’t know much about this method, but it sounds like combining the two may be good!)
6.) Use Gaskets
7.) Use fine metal mesh as a flashback arrestor, or maybe even a commercial flashback arrestor like they use for Oxy-Fuel torches!
8.) Fancier Injector Design to Make Sure you are having things mix well
That’s about all the ideas i have, and it was a great video as always!
Also there's a way to use fine metal shavings (usually bronze) instead of a fine metal net to prevent flashback. This shavings usually look like "metal wool". As I understand, some commercial solutions use this way.
Also needs dissipation of heat. If the water he's cooling the engine with becomes too hot, then there is no point in using it since it will no longer do it's job. You said ice, and in the end would work similarly, but it would be just as limited, because it's not permanent and the ice will eventually melt. A heatsink/radiator would be the way to go.
You can also check out Scott Manley's video on fuel injectors. They're a bit more complicated, but the fuel and oxidizer (or air in this instance) wouldn't mix until they're already in the combustion chamber
he could also use a wire mesh sieve as flashback arrestor. It's cheap and widely available
I noticed the threaded rods for the spark are going to absorb a lot of heat and cause issues. Maybe they could be inserted from behind or somehow insulate them from the inner chamber wall. Increasing the volume of the water chamber would be a good idea too.
I got the impression that the engines might have worked a bit better if you pumped the water in on the bottom and out the top. That way the water would carry all the air out with it as it exit. It seems to me that the engines failed at the top and that might have been because there was little cooling there with all the air trapped in the upper part.
It would help distribute the thermal load for sure but I feel that with the metal base plate heating up as much as it does the melting problem would only be delayed.
@@NarutoMagicCyclops maybe he can 3D print the flanges thicker (edit: and with hollow insides) to watercool the front and rear of where the plate touches lol
@@server642 It's possible especially if he just wants to create the effect of the engine, the bulkiness of such a system and having more failure points would be a headache and half though. Frankly just goes to show how bad plastic/resin is for thermal conductivity and load not to mention how typically brittle the system is to explosive power. Softer plastices might be able to survive a bit better but you'd lose pressure as it wouldn't be stiff enough at that point and theres generally not much you can do about the thermal qualities.
@@NarutoMagicCyclops Or he could just raise the water reservoir above the engine.
Yeah thats how distillation condensers work in a lab
Try to make a controller, this is what we actually use even in the early stages of jet engine builds. This helps a lot to understand what is going on inside the engine and by comparing this data with your design and materials used, you will know what is the problem and how exactly it can be solved. Helps to minimize the time you waste on prototypes and obviously the cost of materials used. the most basic one would include at least 2 thermal sensors (we use 2 at each stage of the engine for better results, but it's not really necessary for your needs), in your case 1 would be used inside the engine and the other one on the nozzle (just an example, you can play with it), AR sensor that would show the exact mixture (this will allow making it more efficient (by that I not only mean consumption but also temperatures (that are quite important in your case) (because the good mixture will decrease temperatures of combustion), air flow sensors (show the speeds of intake air etc.) and the last but not least is flow/consumption sensor (but it mostly used for liquid fuels, so not sure if it would be helpful for you.
(If needed can help with code etc.)
thank you for your videos.
This.
I think you should make a nice pair of safety glasses to protect your eyes from exploding plastic jet engines. After that you could look into cooling jet engines with something like liquid nitrogen.
Woah, nice graphics on this one!
I love your videos!
What would you think about building your next rocket with an liquid engine. If it is even possible
Wanna see your new videos😄
there was way too much air in the water cooling loop. at least in the first few trys. I think thats the most likely reason why the last try was so successful. and if you want to improve the cooling further, instead of redicing the wall thickness, try increasing the surface area. adding fins within the water channel would help tremendously. and why not watercool the diffuser as well?
get water close to that metal from both sides to keep that one cool as well and I think this could work really well.
Because plastic is a thermal insulator so fins wouldn't help they would hinder. The balloon doesn't burst because the layer of plastic between the flame and the water is extremely thin so the plastic makes a poor thermal insulator. With a 3D printed model the plastic is much thicker and so becomes a thermal insulator. The heat cannot conduct through the plastic fast enough to dissipate so one side melts and burns while the other side is cold. Adding fins wouldn't help it would just be adding sections of really thick walls.
@@benfubbs2432 I was thinking along the same lines. He needs a better thermal conductor on the interior layers. Something akin to a different thermo-plastic that is more heat conducive. I believe there are some conductive resins he could try or even adding some metal filings to his resin mix would probably be worth a try as well.
If he can get that heat in contact with the heat sink then it should, hopefully, work out. =)
Fins work with metal because it conducts heat quickly but also dissipates it. Plastics on the other hand insulate and the thicker it is, the more it builds up and this build up of heat along with it's issue of not wanting to dissipate it is the problem.
So the thing is, wall thickness needs to be reduced to next to nothing in which case weakens it in terms of potential pressures generated even if cooling were working at that point.
The water needs to come up from the bottom to eliminate air pockets.
The problem here is really the bad heat conductivity of plastic/resin. You can see that any part of the engine which is exposed to hot gas and not in very close proximity to water gets burned.
Should use a ceramic spacer/O Ring to hold your diffuser to prevent the heat transfer from the metal to the resin/plastic
Would warm water help keep the resin from being brittle/experiencing some kind of thermal shock from the temperature differential?
Shashumga
Maybe, but I think not much
I would say so. I would also apply some basic design concepts of industrial heat exchangers. I have seen some comments hinting on that. But broken down I would say you need a bottom intake and top exit, with some flow direction like he tried with the butan. Ad to that a closed water cycle, a more potent pump and more pressure. Maybe let the cooling agent flow through an additional external heat exchanger to reduce the speed with which heat is building up in the water. For that I would use an air cooler, which, in this case, would be a 3D printed pipe with cooling rips. This would be light weight and easy to implement. Also it extends the duration of the cooling, before the cooling agent gets to hot to do its job properly.
Thats an interesting theory !
@@integza I would love to see you learn aluminum investment casting.... with the right tools and equipment its actually pretty easy..
Now try this with liquid nitrogen and metal 3D print to keep temperatures even lower!
Liquid nitrogen might damage the plastic
Not gone work it's gonne be to cold
That's what I thought he was going to use instead of BUTANE lol. Trying to make something work, you will try just about anything
The liquid nitrogen is gonna make the plastic even more brittle, and it could shatter like nothing because of the combustion.
Wont work and will damage the plastic. I messed with nitrogen as a teen with a friend
Some improvements that I can think of straight away:
1. Make sure the water inlet is from the bottom and therefore has a more continuous area of contact with the resin when under temperature stress.
2. A higher pressure of cooling may be required due to what seems to be melting points happening at the point of one of the cooling in/outlet. Maybe reinforce this area with small vanes to distribute that water evenly. Also maybe get a thermometer to test the temperature of the water in vs out to see how well it is working.
3. Use tomato juice to assert your cooling dominance ;)
Actually... Liquid like water (vs compressed gas) should flow from Top to Bottom, because gravity can help out, but also will hopefully help keep air away from the inner walls of any gets trapped/sucked in.
Speaking of air, that could be why it was failing on some of those instances, if any was trapped inside. I couldn't quite tell from the footage, but I would suggest:
- using a bigger reservoir for starters
- filled with ice cubes**
- mounting it higher than the engine
- have it run for a few minutes before ignition, to make sure all
air has been purged from the cooling galleries
** this might not work well, same with any super-chilled liquid like butane or CO2, due to the cold combustion chamber walls getting "shocked" by the heat of the burning fuel; maybe not though, all purely speculation on my part!
You could use vanes, or you could angle the inlet and outlet to have the water swirl around in a uniform way
Yes you should most certainly use tomato blood for cooling. Also the idea of feeding the tomato blood from bottom to top sounds like a good idea too. I think you will have less heat transfer if you use stainless steel screen to prevent flashback of the flame front. Add to that some ceramic slip around the edge as a gasket between the screen and the housing. Oh and then a ceramic nozzle might be useful too.
Integza, I love this channel! Your passion and drive are very inspiring. Keep up the great work. I know you will be successful!!!!
also if he angled the inlet and put a small diffuser in it. it would help the spread of the water
id say a ceramic defuser as well
It would be interesting to watch it run with a infrared camera and see the efficiency in each design change.
I know IR can't see through glass - kinda cool actually, it acts like a mirror so you can see your heat reflecting.
You'd probably only get the exterior temperature and the heat from the exhaust.
Worth trying though, especially with how affordable FLIR cameras are these days. My CAT S62 smartphone has one built in.
@@Saint_Sigismund where did u see glass
@@pepeyufera97 I didn't, but because IR cameras can't see through glass I'm not sure if it could see through plastic either.
A simple improvement would be have the water enter from the bottom to the top, other little things is have the water jacket have a larger cavity at the top as well as a larger outlet to allow the heated water and importantly steam to escape easier.
The complicated improvement is to have the water enter the chamber to cool internal components as well as using the steam as added thrust mass.
Using a flamable gas as a coolant is one of the greatest ideas I ever seen ♥️ love from spain
I think that he should use liquid hydrogen.
Hey Integza! Heres something that might help, try offsetting the inlet and exit of the water axially such that it creates a sort of "swirl" flow around the chamber, so that the water evenly distrubutes around the combustion chamber (maybe even a spiraling channel). I noticed a few stagnant water spots on the top side of the chamber, and a rather large air bubble at one point, and I belive that is where the inner wall initially failed. Using offset inlet and exits to create a spiral flow to evenly distribute the (moving) water around the engine would greatly help with that!
Also sidenote you are one of my biggest inspirations! I absolutely love your projects!
This sounds like a really good idea. It could be seen in a few shots the water didn't always do much more than stagnate at the height of the inlet/outlet, so it'd probably help to offset them by 180 as well to try and encourage the flow to get all the way around the chamber.
This was my thought as well
Love it! I had recommended water cooling over a year back, so glad to finally see it attempted. Oh, and using the fuel to cool the engine is pretty much what NASA used to do, they cooled the bell nozzle (and I think the chamber) with the fuel before sending it into the chamber. Of course, they had a much higher flow and systems that could handle MUCH higher pressures, so it might not be a great idea to implement in plastic.
I just had a thought - if he DID use liquid nitrogen, could it have gotten the combustion chamber cold enough that his fuel would precipitate back into a liquid?
I would suggest using a steel or brass mesh.
It work very well in preventing blowback. We use it all the time in HHO generators.
Very impressive.
Two thoughts on improving the design:
1) use hi-temp rtv silicone gasket material between the two halves and the diffuser sheet to seal the leaks.
2) you might consider putting vanes in the water jacket to swirl the water around between the inlet and outlets to make sure you don't have air or steam pockets in your water jacket.
I would suggest water cooling the defuser.
What about lower speed of the water? The ones in the balloon is stationery...
Can't the combating chamber be modified to direct the flame out instud to the diffuser?
@@omri.d lowering the speed of water seems worse for heat transfer because of convection.
It would maintain higher temperature difference between the source and sink and cool the engine better.
But that's my intuition as an engineer. Someone more specialised can speculate and give more advice on the cooling and such
Yeah I was thinking a spiral pipe kinda thing
Put the water inlet at the bottom and the outlet at the top, pump the water upwards. It'll remove all the bubbles and completely fill the cooling chamber. Your problem could be hot spots forming when the water boils or has bubbles in it. And for a less explosive coolant, try car antifreeze. Although I do like how when the engine fails it puts itself out.
What I thinking as well, when he had the inlet on the bottom
You'd want the water being pumped from above since airs natural affinity to rise in water would trap it before makes it to said parts you're trying to cool. Antifreeze inhibits freezing and boiling but you do lose some cooling capacity in doing so. distilled water with a higher flow rate and keeping air out of the cooling chambers is going to do better than antifreeze. That said I think you can use a certain thin additive to prevent boiling without as much effect to the cooling capacity as antifreeze but the issue with antifreeze and other such additives, they may likely damage the plastic as these resins aren't made to be chemically resistant.
using butane to cool a combustion chamber is a Darwin award in the making
@Integza: you should build a shredder to destroy all the tomatoes.
1k likes and no comments wow
Hekker
I wish you win
Kiva
If it was good enough, it could be marketed for producing yummy tomato paste.
Heyy, a water-cooled tomato paste maker. Enjoy your streetmeat hotdog sandwiches while the rest of us enjoy pizza.
Instead of using a diaphragm, and the defusing chamber, it may help to have everything water cooled. So if it is printed in one piece with the oxygen being pumped in from the back inside a cone, and the butane being pumped in from the perimeter ~1” away from the back. The gasses should mix well, and you can have water cooling. Also, place the inlet for the water cooling at the lowest point, and the outlet at the highest point of the design, to ensure water equally flows across everything.
You should try the lost PLA aluminum casting method! You can 3d print the parts then turn them into aluminum. A forge capable of melting aluminum is very easy to make!
Great idea, I second this
Nice idea! The design will still need watercooling, though but might withstand heat a bit better as it conducts better.
@@adriankoch964 I wonder if he could use thin copper pipe and imbed it in the cast. The copper shouldn’t melt and that way he doesn’t have to do any fancy casting to create a cavity
@@Acrophobia2 sounds like a great idea, I'm not sure how compatible it is with the lost pla method tho
I'm really glad you make these videos as you so, it's super fun and I learn a lot for both you and the comments. Cheers mate
P.s don't use liquid butane to cool a fire!! That's really dangerous the amount that's going through!!
You could try having it so that the water comes in the bottom and has to take a longer path around the jet, think of a spiral from front to back.. water flowing over every surface.
Keep it up!
P.P.S a radiator in an ice water bucket would be more effective for cooling then flammable liquids and gasses
The ("cold") water intake for the engine should be from the bottom, and the ("warm/hot") water outlet/output should be from the top.
This is how it is done in distillers.
I think that would cause there to be spots where the water is stagnated
I think having it suck out with a pump from the bottom would make it cool fastest
It should be cold ingress towards the diaphragm on top, with hot water egress on the bottom at the tail. Otherwise heated is propagating towards the diaphragm instead of away from it.
Otherwise great suggestion👍🏻
I still think that the "cold intake" should be at the bottom, with the "hot output" being at the highest point. My thinking behind this is that it will allow the water to fill up, and minimize "empty spots"
It's really interesting to see how far 3d printing can take these designs. Still get nervous seeing you without even safety glasses when you're testing the rockets, though, lol.
3:53
I was scared for a moment that it was about to explode and blind you. Safety first! Goggles may not save your face, but they'll at least save your eyes.
Annnnnd 10:05
I'm not saying this to demean you. I just really love watching your content. Being blind makes engineering harder.
Safety squints are not enough please use basic Safety gear
Usually I don't like all the safety Nazi's in the comments. But this time I am one of them. Combustion, plastic, and no eye protection is makings for a blind here after.
A face shield is always easy and nice when testing dangerous projects
he had safety crocs
My body cringed at this moment
You accomplished what I would think impossible. A Combustion Chamber made of plastic/tesin. I'm thoroughly impressed. Thank You for sharing this.
You can improve the cooling eficiency with the inlet and outlet tangential to the chamber. Give them an offset to have a virtual cooling coil. The water will have more speed and take more heat.
For the video Idea, I've always being curious about cyclocopters. You can 3D print 90% of the parts and they are a bit unknown
You should make the inside wall out of thin sheet metal, it would be thin and conductive enough to get cooled down quickly enough by the water, and it would also be much more resistant to the exploision pressure, it should also be pretty easy to make with simple tools.
You can use a tin can
I think the reason why you're getting on/off combustion is lack of airflow. Combustion needs a lot of air, and that air needs to behave correctly (not too fast or it'll blow out the flame). The first change I'd suggest is a system to convert air from a compressor to what goes into the engine.
Other people: Water-Cooled Gaming Pc
Integza: Water-Cooled Jet Engine
➡️Integza: Struggles with the cooling a resin engine.
Also Integza: Not even try to see how good heat resistant resin actually is.😁♥️
litterally watch any of his other videos, he knows the resin cannot handle the heat
A great idea would be to actually test all your rockets like with a thrust measurer to find the best one and then try to make a controllable vehicle with it maybe a miniature car.
Video ideia: "I 3D printed rocket nozzles to better water my garden!" Would be awesome to see you print the differents types off rockets nozzle and even the engines from previous videos and adapt it to the end of a hose, so we could see witch one is better to water a garden: the Aerospike nozzle, the De Laval nozzle, maybe something like a Golden Ration nozzle (will the water go all directions because of the shape of it?), maybe a Dyson Fan nozzle? And you could use 1L of water all times, to see not only the further it can go, but witch one use less water
Which one could shoot longer jets? Which one produces a bigger water cone? Can any one produce a better flow of water without turbulent water? Stuff like that
all models leaked initially at the attachment portion. ~ add thick rubber seal on both sides of the metal screen then bolt together. YOUR VIDEO AS ALWAYS IS SO SICK MAN!!! the leak is preventing an efficient startup leading to a partial vaccum adding small portions of fuel to be lost as well as oxygen weakening your startup . the misfires are causing ur heat . AMAZING really when u think of other factor creating the heat - a dam jet of fire!!!! THICKEN the walls at attatchment and add an interior and exterior O ring inside and outside of the bolts to have redundency in your seal! INSANE WORK.
Try having the internal cooling wrap around in a spiral, like wrapping a wire around a nail. Also try to have your diffuser have liquid cooling as well, maybe with two pieces that come out that attach to a cooling system
I think it would work if you used something like a soda can / tin can for the inner layer, it's way stronger and has better thermal conductivity on top of being a lot thinner.
That's a good idea. The combustion chamber wall definitely needs to be thinner and I just don't see resin transferring heat well enough to work in this project.
Keep it steady in another nozzle by waterflow pressure
Can I just say, from my experience of doing a VERY similar thing with butane.... you are SO lucky that ended like THAT..... It evaporates very quickly but you could have had the biggest fireball you've ever experienced in your life inside your shop right there lol..... Glad you're safe man!
I was totally expecting a huge fireball.
Not to mention the fact he wasn't wearing any type of eye protection! Integza is lucky it ended the way it did.
@@darthdiamo6902 Facts!
Every time I avoid death or serious injury I kind of just sit there for a sec and go "welp, not gonna do THAT ever again"...Anyone who either works in a dangerous line of work or just tends to make generally stupid decisions on a regular basis knows that we take these luck endings with pride and LEARN from them lol.
@@W00FLES yeah for real. Sadly I have a feeling Integza isn't going to learn, at least not from this close call.
Nah, gasoline makes the big boy fireballs
Cool video! One idea is to make the plastic flanges hollow in the middle and seal them against the metal plate with o rings. This way the water cooling can also cool the metal plate and stop it from melting the housing.
Maybe you can use a soda can or other metal can as the inner combustion chamber, with the outer 3d printed water cooling jacket keeping it cool
This sounds much more feasible and better able to stand up to thermal shock than resin
Next time it would be cool if you tried to recreate the lightsaber from Alex’s lab
And watercool it
Try keeping air out of the water. Air is way more insulating than water, so it is working against you. Also, using small flaps or hairs in the engine where the water flows would increase the surface area of water touching the engine, thus increasing the cooling speed.
Edit: grammar
Edit: I was thinking of vacuum insulation, not air
I agree with the of removing air pockets. I think flow should be as laminar as possible to maxime heat transfer. But i think adding flaps will introduce cavitation. Reducing laminar flow and creating air pockets.
This will work if he bleeds the system
@@TheModerateNewb as long as the system is closed off from air, it shouldn't make air pockets, but it would introduce more turbulent flow. Increasing the surface area is how radiators work and is also one of the ways car engines dissipate heat through aluminum sheets.
Integza could you try to solder a brass tube around the metal defucer and run water to cool the plate before it touches the plastic interface ring? this should cool your last failure location. the cold water should protect the solder holding the tube to the plate from melting. also add some salt to your water and make it colder, the salt as you know will prevent the water from freezing at lower than 0 c.
love this design how about making the holes in the diffuser smaller so the velocity of the air/gas mix is increased so the flame doesn't burn in contact with the diffuser. You could also extend the water jacket into the flange so you have edge cooling on the diffuser.
will still fail, plastic doesn't conduct heat to the water well enough
@@cda32 Did you see the ballon at the start?
Love this water-cooled design - now you should try to increase the cooling surface area within the water channel (ribs/ridges etc)... and maybe consider a heat exchanger to lower the temp of the cooler/working fluid?
This already has the best possible cooling for the engine, plastic is less conductive than the water, so using ribs or ridges would only make it less effective. The water in the bowl has enough thermal capacity that its probably not even heating up more than a few degrees with each test, and you could solve even that by just taking a larger bucket.
Your 3d printed jet engines are one of my favorite things to watch on TH-cam. Have you ever thought about trying to 3d print a working Stirling engine?
Integza, to prevent combustion back propagating, you probably need more pressure in your air and fuel intakes! Also, maybe combine this with the ceramic resin?
Greetings,
It may be a stupid solution, but why not do it all in one piece and cool the whole thing, That can be easily done with the resin printer.
Also add fins on the inside of the cooling ducts, that would decrease the thermal resistance between the combustion chamber and the liquid, I recommend adding fins on both sides (I recommend you take a look at the inside of some liquid cooling cooldplate for power semiconductor or LEDs, an interesting paper on the subject: "Advanced Cooling for Power Electronics").
Another possible improvement I see is to improve the thermal conductivity of the material, if I am not mistaken the resin you use is between 0.3-0.4 W/m*k, a solution may be the use of a ceramic resin that will have about 3-4 W/m*k, or directly use iron powder particles or some material that conducts the temperature well.
@OfficialIntegza grasias grasias pero no lo creo
Idea for future video:
Hey Integza. Make combustion chamber from aluminium can, watercool it. Just 3d print outer casing. To make a nozzle you can use metal garden coupler.
@OfficialIntegza nice scam
Awesome idea, loving the vid so far.
*Some feedback, from someone who's water cooled PCs for longer than I'd care to admit*
Your water is full of air, it's hard on the pump and reduces your cooling potential. In this simple loop, your reservoir would be the logical place to bleed out air.
- Set the reservoir up above the pump, highest point in the system if possible
- Outlet on bottom of res
- Res OUT tube straight down, if possible
- Ensure the Res has enough water to prevent air intake
- Add a baffle or space the reservoir IN/OUT far enough away, so that circulated air is not pulled back into the loop
- Run the system for a few seconds before ignition
Additionally, water blocks tend to use a pressure plate and fin system, to ensure water passes evenly across the entire cooling surface.
I've only watched about a third, but I'd wager the baffle you added to the cooling Inlet did nothing, except maybe make it harder to bleed the system.
Turn your pump speed down initially, preferably use a soft start or something.
It's likely with your current design, that much if the water is stagnant. I'd suggest a design that forces the water across the entire cooling surface, eg. by using channels
EDIT: Instead of using explosive coolant, like a madman, put ice in your reservoir.
exactly what i thought, the airated water had to been limiting the cooling effects, and the bad flow and air still in the water area
@@slimsqde7397 The aeration certainly isn't helping, but I think that the limiting factor is the thermal conductivity, or lack thereof, of the resin. Resin is like, 0.5% the conductivity of copper, so the amount of heat transferred will drop dramatically with thickness, hence why the thin walled vessel worked much better. Finding a balance of the thinnest wall, for better heat transfer, but strong enough to not rupture under the pressure would be the key. I think a series of small pins that connect the inner and outer shells, small enough to not impede heat transfer meaningfully, but large and numerous enough to help keep it rigid, would be a good test.
Congrats Integza! You build yourself a butan powered gas heater! But also an Idea: put steelwool in front of the metall diaframe. It is used in gas welders for example, and it prevents gas knockback. So it would prevent in your case, that the explsoion goes back into your diffuser. Therefore the stress on it is lower, and there is less heat. Also you could than also cool the steelwool, and therefore prevent the joint from melting. Sorry for my englisch, I'm from germany.
You could try making a device to always have a stochiometric ratio for your combustion, so you can more focus on the engine itself rather than trying to make the mixture correct at each try. Btw love all your videos, keep it up!
Stoichiometric burn is not ideal when you are fighting combustion chamber overheating; stoich burns too hot. Rocket engines, for example, basically never run stoichiometrically.
@@kebha6308 I thought stoichiometric reactions just had low amounts of biproducts. Yes that means more heat, but it increases efficiency and much more importantly stability. If fluctuation between the amount of reactants and products changes constantly, you get the explosions at the start where not enough butane gas flow is occurring. This results in all the butane combusting and flashback, causing the diffuser to experience heat and pressure spikes.
Not necessarily a stoichiometric burn but a set regulator assembly to allow simple on off operation
@@kebha6308 assuming you arent running stoichiometric burns, doesnt different nozzle sizes, nozzle angle, chamber sizes all effect the desired ratio of reactions?
@@sezylrin4138 not at the pressures you see in rocket and jet engines. I mean, all those factors should have a small effect (look at the Saturn V F-1 engines having combustion instability due to its size) but it's not a death sentence for the engine at all. Altitude should be the biggest differentiator in FAR in turbo engines that don't have their own oxidizer. His fuel flow and air intake system just isn't sufficient.
I would love to see you tackle a turbo prop engine. It's the perfect mix of propeller AND combustion jet engine. The prop even feeds the air into the compressor for the jet engine. It's such a cool design.
In terms of water cooling, I think the basic principal you have is sound, but you might want to look into the water jackets used on machine guns in the second world war. The way the water was fed and drained is designed to completely surround the hot component. I think having the inlet and drain opposite each other is restricting the amount of cooling reaching the entire chamber. You see this where the plate gets hot in only one area, and how when the inner wall cracked, it was at the points where there was the highest heat differential.
I think i have a fix for this engine. I saw it always melted on the top where there was less water. You need canals to spread the water evenly around the engine. Maybe some sort of spiral canal?
And for the metal part you could simply make it bigger so it stands out of the engine and place some cooling on it. That should also cool the metal part inside the chamber because metal is a good heat conductor.
As a science teacher, I have actually done the balloon demonstration in the classroom before. It is a great way to show the properties of different materials conducting heat!
With that same idea, try using a different metal for the joints and defuser, one that has a better heat capacity. That way tbe defuser can get hot but it will not radiate heat to the joints and melt it. I would suggest aluminium.
Hey Integza, nice job! Just a very simple idea about the coolant: try having the water flow from the bottom to the top part of your nozzle. That way you are making sure to always have the coolant compartment full of water and you avoid all the trapped air bubbles you had in the video (the same way it's being done with coolant in chemistry). Looking forward to the next one!
Was just going to say the same, you either make the flow go against gravity or place an orifice on the exit to restrict the flow and make sure the water doesn't run faster than the pump can push
you dont have enough pressure before the injector plate(defuser) thats why it explodes in the first chamber. try using oxygen with your fuel so it has a better mix at higher pressure. you need that higher pressure at the injector. The butane isnt a bad idea, thats how a lot of rockets cool their nozzle and it preheats the fuel before going into the injector for better preformance
Next time try to print a water canal in the style of a screw tread, it will add stucture to the combustion chamber and will help with the movement of the hot water! Maybe try to add water cooling with the liquid butane too!
Keep up the good work! Love your content!
Yo integza, maybe try a glow plug instead of a spark plug. Should help a bit with the explosions when starting it.
You continue to impress! I really want to see what you could in a higher budget project. It would be great if you could find a sponsor willing to fund a high budget multi stage rocket.
This is some suggestions for modifications to do in future videos to get better performance:
- You can use bluff bodies to mix air with fuel in better way. you can try disk, sphere, cone, swirl, .. with different dimensions and it's used before ignition so you can maybe just 3d print them
- You need nozzle to accelerate the flow to get better performance and you can also use carbon fiber as you did in pulse jet engine to create them on 3d printed molds
- Also to check the air to fuel ratio you can use oxygen sensor on the exhaust as done on cars to see either you are running lean or rich and which will give better performance
- You can also use small amount of the exhaust to heat up fuel before injected
And for sure to do all of that you need to build test rig some how to measure the output from the engine. Not just to compare between different modifications but also to compare the between the input and output power
Lol, mixing is the problem, that’s why rocket engines use injector plates
@@brucebaxter6923 I will check how injector plates, thanks
Could you use a Tesla valve to prevent the pressure from the explosions going backward?
Future Idea: Here me out. You should try to make a jet engine powered remote control car, or even better, a go kart.
for another video, I think you should make another Hybrid motor. as you've had issues with the whole melting thing I'd recommend making an ablative liner for the throat and nozzle. if you look up halfcatrocketry, they have one that isn't too difficult to make called CHAMBERAFE. also, if you go looking there's a good few things that can help you find an ideal throat area for a given chamber pressure. with hybrids, your chamber pressure and thus overall thrust can vary substantially due to the burning rate of the grain and its geometry, Rocket Propulsion elements by George Sutton and Oscar Biblarz has some good resources to help with this and stuff for basically everything else I've mentioned so far.
I hope everything continues to go well for you and have a nice day!
thanks for the amazing videos
A jet engine that recycles 3D print material !
Joel thank you so much for this insane video!
A gasket to keep conducted heat from the metal part from the plastic might help and isn't really cheating as most 'rubber' in washers and gaskets has been synthetic for 60+ years
How about making pnematic power tools that work off a water supply?
I have an idea.
Have your viewers send in their own rocket designs in an FTL file, review them and make a show where you compare the best ones.
The fan showdown but for jet engine designs, i fully support this idea! people online come up with some crazy ways to do things and some work really well.
@@ikitclaw7146 that show is exactly what I’m talking about. Thank You for mentioning it.
I checked it out and it’s so amazing!
I’m only on the eighth episode, but I’m binging on it right now.
I absolutely love the creativity.
You should use a newton meter on your engines, so we can rank how effective they are.
And how much small changes in design will differentiate the thrust.
It would be fun to see your progress in making them more effective after each project! :)
The easiest and most robust way is probably with a stand that's on a pivot, with the axle a meter or so away. The whole thing can be made out of wood very cheaply, with a load cell from broken kitchen scales. With this design, you can place the cell anywhere along the lever to get whatever ratio you want on the cell.
An idea or two:
Make a path that the water has to travel around the engine so it is always moving the water around every part equally. You can also pipe the water around the diffuser and run it around like with the engine to keep it cooled. By using small walls to control the water, you also increase the strength to of the engine compared to the no walls design.
Another part of this would be to make a bump from wall to wall to increase the surface area the water is in contact with, increasing the amount of heat it can pull away at any given point in time.
Edit: the problem that happened with the butane was that it doesn’t have a high specific heat meaning it was turning into a gas in the inner walls thus expanding and busting through to the inner engine to then expand again. The reason why water is good for cooling is not only that it conducts heat well but also stores heat until it can leave the system. The water wasn’t vaporizing so it can probably be in the system for a longer time than it was here to keep cooling the system.
Fun fact, some rocket engines are liquid cooled in a way similar to the liquid butane attempt, it's known as Staged Combustion and it also helps with efficiency since it preheats the fuel before ignition.
VI: A turbojet engine that runs off of biodiesel, or should I say: Tomatodiesel
@Integza, u can extend this series by changing the flow design. Try to keep the area of the flow space equal while keeping the surface to the heat source and sink as large as possible:
A_{in} = pi * r ^ 2 = n * pi * r ^ 2 = n * A_{n, out}, or
A_{in} = pi * r ^ 2 = n * h * w = n * A_{n, out}
I suggest you make a helical shaped water cooler. I suggest a ratio of 1 to 5 (n = 5).
You should try to make a turbojet engine that runs on hydrogen peroxide and a catalyst. This way you don't need to use heat-resistant materials or compressor blades.
He did
@@lucagiurgiu like his after burning electric jet bicycle
8:51 I don't think I have ever seen a jet go from flame to water jet in an instant. Lol
Video idea: I'd love to see you build a 3d printed liquid piston engine, it's design is geometrically inverse to a wenkel.
Wouldn't it be interesting if you made a sheet with the thrust/torque of all of your creations, I think it would be fun to compare everything you've made. Also, how hard would it be to make an ion thruster?
idea with butane was awesome!!!!
the only problem you had was with the start up procedure
1 when starting up you use butane gas after startup you tilt the butane bottle and let liquid flow
2 IMPORTANT!! - when you tilt you turn down butane flow because liquid has much more density than gas
A cool idea I could think off is trying out all your differnt engines and seeing which has the most thrust and some different challenges for your engines.
10:06 In retrospect, WEAR A FACE SHIELD (and maybe goggles or glasses too)
Another option may be making that acrylic “shield” like they had on “Mythbusters” and/or some sort of “test chamber”
Idea make a gun that shoots tomatos and destroys them immediately during impact
This is so good, now i don't have to Booo someone and throw tomatoes, i can Boo someone and shoot Tomatoes at them, i wanna buy one right now!!!
Xd that would be fun to see sice this channel hates tomatos
For a future video, you could build a TURBOFAN engine, a jet engine with a rotor in carbon fiber like you already did, it would be a jet engine similar as the engines of planes today and it would provice thrust. You could use metal sheets to build the compressors.
Please like this comment if you want to see a video of this project too
great idea I would also want to see this video
That's a great idea, you should definitely try this in an other video. I think it would be awesome.
Try placing the reservoir above the engine to get the air out better.
Also place the water outlet at the top of the engine so the whole compartment is exposed to water
I thought that using liquid butane to cool the engine was a joke, until you tried it. 10/10 but I'm subtracting 6 points for lack of safety glasses. Being blind is no good 4/10
We will get him to use them one day! Hopefully pre-optical damage
Potentially ⠼⠚/10
Highly interested in a 3d printer. Would love to and see someone else's execution of a mobile water sprinkler powered by the water flowing through it
You can buy those.
@@calebhouston5799 very true but your thinking small. I want something 2-3 feet tall. Inspired by steam powered tractors from the turn of the century
Video suggestion:
You should make an HHO generator (oxyhydrogen generator) and power a rocket with the fuel would be cool to see you make your own fuel to power your rockets
Alex Lab has a great video on this. The video is called 'High pressure electrolyzer. Detailed DIY guide'.
It worked so well, he powered his dirt bike with it.
@@HaloWolf102 can you link video Im very interested in HHO
Maybe you should try to add some heat insulation between the metal and the resin body, while extending the diaphram so it can cool down with surrounding air. Great video!!!
Ideia: How about to create a portable shower that use butane to heat the water inside it and you could use it whatever you want? Example: if I want to go on a trail and take a hot shower just by the river, you just need a “3D printed” shower that you can plug a small butane tank and use some batteries to ignite then and heat the water! It could be a really nice product!!!
Thats already a thing, its called a pot of and a gas stove.
I have a suggestion:
Why not feed the butane from the outlet of the cooling system back into the combustion chamber since most of the liquid butane would've turned to gas at that point(the butane can be used as both fuel nad collant!). most of the rocket engines which use cryogenic fluids as fuel use this technique to cool the nozzle down
You should continue making that engine and then make a collab with ProjectAir or Ramy RC and make an airplane with this. I think that with a better nozzle and a bit better cooling and design of the metal part you should be able to make a reliable engine that generates some thrust. Also you could try to use a more heat conductive material on the inside, so the heat will be better transfered to the water.
Edit: I forgot to mention that you have a lot of air in the water pipes. That makes the cooling much worse.