THANK YOU!! You are a great person to explain and to show us where the parts go, how to install them and tell us what is going on in the process. I had to subscribe after watching this!!! Have a Great and very Blessed day!!!
Good video BUT missing a lot of info. First, a quick way of troubleshoot a bad crankshaft position sensor is the RPM gauge will not move when cranking the vehicle. This lets the vehicle computer to start the sequence to start vehicle. Sometimes leaking oil fluids affect the magnetic pulse. A quick cleaning will fix the situation. Second, the sensor has to be shimmed at the right gap. Just like a spark plug. Too much gap will not detect magnet. Too close and it will start making fine scratches on magnet where it's rubbing on flywheel.
"Behind the harmonic balancer on passenger side" First video I've seen where they actually identified the location AND socket size. Also some interesting information about using junk yard parts. Thank you!
"Behind the harmonic balancer on passenger side" I was thinking the same thing as another commentor. The overvew of the video and detail is spot on. Thanks!
I’ll have to show this to my neighbor,his truck has been down for a couple weeks now and his is doing exactly the same thing and he’s replaced a lot of stuff already and this is the one thing he hasn’t replaced yet
But thanks for the video you help me so much I can't put it in words my truck was doing the same thing replaced the crank sensor now I'm doing good thanks for the video God-bless buddy
sounds like what my truck does. randomly dies, hard to restart. except mine restarts with a check engine light and a cam position sensor code. i might just make a junkyard run and start with crank sensor- easier than cam sensor.
Little confused on recalibration after install. Some people are saying it has to be relearned using an expensive code reader. My question is did this ever happen to you where you had to use anything to relearn or recalibrate and If so how can it be done without expensive computer?
Did you notice a severe loss in power as well? My escalade is giving me some problems and I haven't been able to identify where it stems weather its a bad crank position sensor, bad O2 sensors, or just no compression.
My 96 Silverado had been dying on my and one day it didn’t start I changed the crank sensor and it started right up and was running really good but then next day it started to die on me again you have and idea what it could be?
Thanks for sharing. Question...I have a crank but won't start. At first, charging the battery, then I change the crank sensor and it started. The 99' Suburban was on the driveway most of the time; wasn't used. Then I went and kept changing parts even though all the test were OK, like fuel pressure, spark, and compression. But I did changed, fuel pump, fuel injection spider, replaced the VATS, sparks, plug, distribution system. Checked the timing by the marks and it looks good to me; haven't open that area as of yet to check into a possible tooth jumped. I have tested the injector sensors and it is okay. And the PCM testing looks OK. The 5 volt test. EGR and some other areas are ok. I am wondering if the crank sensors that once worked but were not OEM but per Rockauto were good for the truck might be the problem. What do you think?
@@TerenceDIYp0003 it shakes driving and at idle. About 7 months ago it was doing the same or worst and it turned out to be dirty injectors. Wanted to start smaller before I have to buy the spider 300-500$
@@JEREMY-lv7uw , a few years ago I worked on a 1998 Chevy Suburban that was doing the exact same thing. You should check your fuel pressure regulator. That may be your problem. So you might be replacing the spider injector.
My tahoe is doing the same thing turns off after a while after it sits it will start up I changed the sensor n it's doing it still any ideas what it can be
@@TerenceDIY no it’s the wire that branches off from the crankshaft and travels toward the right side of the engine. I’ve looked everywhere and have no idea where it goes
I have a 96 gmc suburban 2500 7.4L.. had it for 2 1/2 - 3 years no major issues well today randomly left me stranded at a gas station crank no start, a bit sputtery and took roughly 45 mins to an hour trying things to get it to start... idk if it's the same or similar issue but now I gotta track down this issue so it don't happen again, 1st time that truck ever left me stranded "almost" but it does have its "non intended" quarks and features and over 320,xxx+ miles so that's to be expected, just unsure cuz every once in a while it would start a lil rough but not often and would always start, unless batt. was dead, but that wasn't the case today, good batt. fuel and spark just didn't wanna start this time 😪 😫 lol
@@wiiadventures nope it must be a connector for maybe a electric fan. Idk but that ended up not being the problem. My crank sensor disnt have a spacer and was hitting the crank. I threw a new one in and out a spacer in it was good to go but yea know you bring it up it has bothered me. Id love to find out why I have a connector that just hangs out.
@@Chavez1979 , it sounds as if you have a weak fuel pump that is possibly going bad. When it shuts down, can you have someone turn the key forward without starting it while you listen at the back for the fuel pump to turn on? Please let me know. For the record, I also have a fuel pump how to video on my channel for this truck.
@TerenceDIY I just fixed last night I changed many things like Cam sensor Crankshaft sensor Coil and module Oso cap and rotor After I changed all it was the same crank but no start So I changed the distributor all new and Stat right up
Nope. Kasey, is your gauge stuck past full? If so, you most likely have a float issue. And, if it's not starting, that float issue can be a tell tale sign of a weak or bad fuel pump. Let me know. Thanks for watching!
I changed the fuel pump like a week ago my crankshaft position sensor has had better day exposed wire on the plug and its covered in power steering fluid hopefully this works lol
Although I can articulate my words fairly good, that's how I talk at times. I am not perfect. However, I am amazing at fixing cars. Thanks for watching.
Can a bad camshaft sensor for 99 chevy tahoe cause a misfire replace crank sensor 3 years ago about to change the cam sensor I have the the cam sensor code that's on and wont pass emmisions
Although that code has correlations to the camshaft, that's not what is causing your problem. Your vehicle is possibly out of time or you have an oil pressure issue (weak oil pump). It's one or the other. How is the oil pressure?
@@TerenceDIY good the same sense I bought it 6 years ago I've had the p1345 code ever sense I bought it but this year won't pass same code just fixed exhaust leak yesterday so I dont know if that's what was making me fail or if I need a new distributor or scan tool and adjust the cam retard but I don't have one of course and dont know how much a mechanic would charge to adjust it
@@TerenceDIY it runs alot smoother with exhaust leak fixed been starting up first try sebsecladt night I've started my truck abouts ten different times today and starts right up before exhaust leak fix I would try 5 to 8 try's before it would crank over so I'm not sure what's going on another thing I put in the aftermarket cam sensor last night started it and backfire really bad so I put old one back in and smooth again it was a napa echlin cam sensor just returned it and got my money back today
Nope. The tach runs to the distributor. It's normally a gray or white wire. I wish i still had the truck because I could have made a quick video showing you where it's at.
I apologize. If the engine has been recently started before doing this job, there will be a some oil leakage. As you can see with mines, there was not a drip because the truck had not ran for a while. Once again, my apologies for not mentioning that. Thanks for watching.
@@TerenceDIY I have never seen anyone else saying that a 10 minute disconnect will allow the computer to relearn the new sensor. I have seen several videos that indicate the computer must relearn the new sensor with a Tech 2 scanner
My 1996 4.3 turns off when I turn it on then when I crank it again it turns on with a high idle for about 5 sec then it wants to turn off Iam thinking fuel related issue? Any idea
THANK YOU!! You are a great person to explain and to show us where the parts go, how to install them and tell us what is going on in the process.
I had to subscribe after watching this!!!
Have a Great and very Blessed day!!!
You're very welcome. Thank you for the kind words and watching my content. I really appreciate it.
Ditto: like and subscribe for my 1998 GMC suburban
Good video BUT missing a lot of info. First, a quick way of troubleshoot a bad crankshaft position sensor is the RPM gauge will not move when cranking the vehicle. This lets the vehicle computer to start the sequence to start vehicle. Sometimes leaking oil fluids affect the magnetic pulse. A quick cleaning will fix the situation. Second, the sensor has to be shimmed at the right gap. Just like a spark plug. Too much gap will not detect magnet. Too close and it will start making fine scratches on magnet where it's rubbing on flywheel.
"Behind the harmonic balancer on passenger side"
First video I've seen where they actually identified the location AND socket size.
Also some interesting information about using junk yard parts.
Thank you!
Thank you Gina and Thanks for watching my content.
"Behind the harmonic balancer on passenger side" I was thinking the same thing as another commentor. The overvew of the video and detail is spot on. Thanks!
You're welcome. Thank you so much for watching.
Just what the doctor ordered, good video
I’ll have to show this to my neighbor,his truck has been down for a couple weeks now and his is doing exactly the same thing and he’s replaced a lot of stuff already and this is the one thing he hasn’t replaced yet
Shane, I hope this video helps him get his truck back going. Keep me updated. Thanks,
But thanks for the video you help me so much I can't put it in words my truck was doing the same thing replaced the crank sensor now I'm doing good thanks for the video God-bless buddy
You're very welcome. I am glad my video helped you. Thank you SO much for watching.
Other videos showed it being behind the starter, yours shows exactly where mine is.. Thanks easy fix. Subscribed!!
You're very welcome John. Thank you SO much for your subscription.
Glad to see you're using a jack-stand 👍
Thanks for this simple diy lesson!
You're very welcome and thanks for watching.
Saved my ass bro. Thank you for posting this!!!!
You're very welcome. Thank you SO much for watching.
sounds like what my truck does. randomly dies, hard to restart. except mine restarts with a check engine light and a cam position sensor code. i might just make a junkyard run and start with crank sensor- easier than cam sensor.
Great job! Thanks for the help.
You're very welcome Lance. Thank you for watching.
Great video! Thank you
You're very welcome. Thank you for watching.
Appreciate your efforts! Thank you
You're very welcome. Thank you for watching.
Watched it broken down on the side of the road...helped me isolate issue
Very helpful thank you so much
You're very welcome. Thank you SO much for watching.
Almost at 10k. Keep it up!
Great Job Thanks so Much for sharing
You're very welcome. Thank you so much for watching.
After it's been replaced do I need to do anything else? Reset something else? TX.
Nope. Just reconnect the battery and you should be all good.
Having the problem 1999 yukun. I’m getting one.
Little confused on recalibration after install. Some people are saying it has to be relearned using an expensive code reader.
My question is did this ever happen to you where you had to use anything to relearn or recalibrate and If so how can it be done without expensive computer?
Nope. A simple disconnect of the battery for a while and it will be fine. I've done MANY of these vehicles.
@@TerenceDIY a super thank you to you. That's good to know
@@brandonom1707 you're very welcome.
Thank you sir.
Clean and cool informative video. Well done and good finish.
You're very welcome. Thank YOU for watching.
Thanks for explaining so clearly
Did you notice a severe loss in power as well? My escalade is giving me some problems and I haven't been able to identify where it stems weather its a bad crank position sensor, bad O2 sensors, or just no compression.
No, I did not notice any sever power loss. What trouble codes are you getting? Thanks,
@@TerenceDIY the O2 is it
My 96 Silverado had been dying on my and one day it didn’t start I changed the crank sensor and it started right up and was running really good but then next day it started to die on me again you have and idea what it could be?
Sounds like the fuel pump is going bad. I have a video for that on my channel as well for this vehicle.
Good video
Thank you and thanks for watching.
May be what is wrong with my burb. Tach not even bouncing when spinning it over.
That wire that is runs through that ring, where does that plug into, bought this truck and it’s hanging down so I don’t know where it goes
HI Dustin, can you tell me the time stamp for the wire you're referring to? Thanks,
Power steering pump connector it's red and blue
Hope you’re aware of corrosion around the battery terminals
Yep! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks for sharing. Question...I have a crank but won't start. At first, charging the battery, then I change the crank sensor and it started. The 99' Suburban was on the driveway most of the time; wasn't used. Then I went and kept changing parts even though all the test were OK, like fuel pressure, spark, and compression. But I did changed, fuel pump, fuel injection spider, replaced the VATS, sparks, plug, distribution system. Checked the timing by the marks and it looks good to me; haven't open that area as of yet to check into a possible tooth jumped. I have tested the injector sensors and it is okay. And the PCM testing looks OK. The 5 volt test. EGR and some other areas are ok. I am wondering if the crank sensors that once worked but were not OEM but per Rockauto were good for the truck might be the problem. What do you think?
I would NOT be surprised if the crank sensor is the issue especially since you've pretty much checked everything else out.
My tahoe is riding rough thinking I should do this before I replace my whole spider injection. Thanks
Nope. Changing the crank sensor will not help your problem. It will just be a waste of your time. Thanks for watching!
@@TerenceDIY what do U recommend to start with ?
@@JEREMY-lv7uw , is the service engine light on? If so, what codes is it showing? Tell me exactly what it is doing. Thanks,
@@TerenceDIYp0003 it shakes driving and at idle. About 7 months ago it was doing the same or worst and it turned out to be dirty injectors. Wanted to start smaller before I have to buy the spider 300-500$
@@JEREMY-lv7uw , a few years ago I worked on a 1998 Chevy Suburban that was doing the exact same thing. You should check your fuel pressure regulator. That may be your problem. So you might be replacing the spider injector.
My tahoe is doing the same thing turns off after a while after it sits it will start up I changed the sensor n it's doing it still any ideas what it can be
You need to clean those battery terminals. And the oil seal behind the harmonic balancer
What is that second wire attach to the crank shaft sensor for?
The second wire in the middle of the plug? If so, I believe that is the purple wire in which should be the ground.
@@TerenceDIY no it’s the wire that branches off from the crankshaft and travels toward the right side of the engine. I’ve looked everywhere and have no idea where it goes
Are you talking about those two wires that comes out of that harness, goes underneath the oil pan towards the driver side? The ones at the 5:44 mark?
@@TerenceDIY yes I am
@@ace4g64TI’m trying to figure it out and we never got an answer back lol
Now thats it been so long did it fix your issue?
Yes, it fixed the problem.
@@TerenceDIY awesome, on it after work
I have a 96 gmc suburban 2500 7.4L.. had it for 2 1/2 - 3 years no major issues well today randomly left me stranded at a gas station crank no start, a bit sputtery and took roughly 45 mins to an hour trying things to get it to start... idk if it's the same or similar issue but now I gotta track down this issue so it don't happen again, 1st time that truck ever left me stranded "almost" but it does have its "non intended" quarks and features and over 320,xxx+ miles so that's to be expected, just unsure cuz every once in a while it would start a lil rough but not often and would always start, unless batt. was dead, but that wasn't the case today, good batt. fuel and spark just didn't wanna start this time 😪 😫 lol
Hi, is it throwing any trouble codes? I am with you about tracking the problem down. It's a terrible feeling being stranded.
I have a 99 suburban it turns over but no start any idea
Fuel pump? I have a fuel pump video on this vehicle as well.
It is getting gas
My fuel pump is good can a crankshaft sensor do that
Coil? Are you getting spark?
I changed all of that also
Hey would you happen to know where the connector that runs with the crank position sensor connector goes to? It's a 2 prong connector.
I'm not sure because I don't have the vehicle anymore to see it. Sorry. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for responding man. Have a great weekend.
@@HeavyDKC1 , You have a great weekend as well.
@D Davis did you find this out because I'm trying to as well
@@wiiadventures nope it must be a connector for maybe a electric fan. Idk but that ended up not being the problem. My crank sensor disnt have a spacer and was hitting the crank. I threw a new one in and out a spacer in it was good to go but yea know you bring it up it has bothered me. Id love to find out why I have a connector that just hangs out.
My 98 silverado shut off while running
Any idea?
Does it start right back up? Please let me know.
@@TerenceDIY no
@@TerenceDIY crank but no start
@@Chavez1979 , it sounds as if you have a weak fuel pump that is possibly going bad. When it shuts down, can you have someone turn the key forward without starting it while you listen at the back for the fuel pump to turn on? Please let me know. For the record, I also have a fuel pump how to video on my channel for this truck.
@TerenceDIY I just fixed last night I changed many things like
Cam sensor
Crankshaft sensor
Coil and module
Oso cap and rotor
After I changed all it was the same crank but no start
So I changed the distributor all new and Stat right up
Hey do u have a videos on code 1345 on a Tahoe 5.7
Not yet Quinton. Maybe soon. Thanks for watching!
Was your gas Guage stuck past full when it wasn't starting
Nope. Kasey, is your gauge stuck past full? If so, you most likely have a float issue. And, if it's not starting, that float issue can be a tell tale sign of a weak or bad fuel pump. Let me know. Thanks for watching!
I changed the fuel pump like a week ago my crankshaft position sensor has had better day exposed wire on the plug and its covered in power steering fluid hopefully this works lol
Fingers crossed. Let me know.
Wasn't the problem couldn't have done it without this video though thanks
@@kaseyjuday7745 , so what is it doing now?
BRUH MY 97 TAHOE HESITATING ON COLD START ACCELERATION,THEN CLEAR UP AND DRIVE FINE ONCE IT WARM, ANY SUBJECTIONS
When was the last time you did a tune-up? New spark plugs, etc...
@@TerenceDIY EVERYTHING NEW , DISTRIBUTOR ,COIL AND MOD,CATS O2, PLUGS WIRES, ALL NEW CENSORS, SPIDER AND FUEL PUMP AND FILTER, NEW FUEL CAP
Okay. What about Throttle position sensor, Idle air control valve or cleaning the throttle body. Your problem may be one of these.
@@TerenceDIY I DID ALL THAT,,,I CHANGED EVERY CENSOR ON THE THE TRUCK..... EVEN THE CANISTER
EVEN THOUGH THE CAMSHAFT ON THE NEW DISTRIBUTOR IS NEW I THINK IT IS GOING BAD🤔🤔🤔🤔
Im dead HE SAID FRUEL 😅😅LOL HE MEANT FUEL
Although I can articulate my words fairly good, that's how I talk at times. I am not perfect. However, I am amazing at fixing cars. Thanks for watching.
Can a bad camshaft sensor for 99 chevy tahoe cause a misfire replace crank sensor 3 years ago about to change the cam sensor I have the the cam sensor code that's on and wont pass emmisions
I've never seen them cause a misfire. One of the common problems is a non start. Do you have a 5.7 engine or the 4.3? Thanks,
@@TerenceDIY 5.7 code p1345
Although that code has correlations to the camshaft, that's not what is causing your problem. Your vehicle is possibly out of time or you have an oil pressure issue (weak oil pump). It's one or the other. How is the oil pressure?
@@TerenceDIY good the same sense I bought it 6 years ago I've had the p1345 code ever sense I bought it but this year won't pass same code just fixed exhaust leak yesterday so I dont know if that's what was making me fail or if I need a new distributor or scan tool and adjust the cam retard but I don't have one of course and dont know how much a mechanic would charge to adjust it
@@TerenceDIY it runs alot smoother with exhaust leak fixed been starting up first try sebsecladt night I've started my truck abouts ten different times today and starts right up before exhaust leak fix I would try 5 to 8 try's before it would crank over so I'm not sure what's going on another thing I put in the aftermarket cam sensor last night started it and backfire really bad so I put old one back in and smooth again it was a napa echlin cam sensor just returned it and got my money back today
Did this cause your tach not to work
Nope. The tach runs to the distributor. It's normally a gray or white wire. I wish i still had the truck because I could have made a quick video showing you where it's at.
Tip for junkyard sensors. Do an ohm resistance test on your plugs and you will know it they are still good. 😉
Thats your method for testing a crank sensor? dang!
Having same problem w my 98 suburban
Can it cause backfiring and misfiring?
Nope. Foul spark plugs can, the timing could be off or a bad coil.
Changed mine out in my 2004 chevy suburban. ran for a week and did the same thing died and will not start.
Are any wires frayed on the plug that goes into that sensor? Something has to be shortening that sensor if that's your problem.
Bro you said nothing about oil shooting out wtf....?
I apologize. If the engine has been recently started before doing this job, there will be a some oil leakage. As you can see with mines, there was not a drip because the truck had not ran for a while. Once again, my apologies for not mentioning that. Thanks for watching.
You didnt have to relearn the sensor?
Nope. You can disconnect the battery for 10 minutes or so, and the computer will reset itself on these late 90's early 2000's vehicles.
@@TerenceDIY I have never seen anyone else saying that a 10 minute disconnect will allow the computer to relearn the new sensor. I have seen several videos that indicate the computer must relearn the new sensor with a Tech 2 scanner
@@goldjon328, I have NEVER had an issue although that could possibly be the case in most instances.
U
Good video
Thanks Walter and thank you so much for watching my content.
My 1996 4.3 turns off when I turn it on then when I crank it again it turns on with a high idle for about 5 sec then it wants to turn off Iam thinking fuel related issue? Any idea
Most likely this sensor. Try it. It's 80 bucks. My truck will high idle then die