Great video Chris! I've got a '99 Chevy 5.7 P30 too. Mine was running, drove it home and now it won't start. I checked the valve for fuel and it's shooting out, cranks and cranks but won't start. Replaced Dist Cap (a LOT of white corrosion), no go - doing rotor tomorrow. This video helped me a lot, thanks!
Great video. I just spent 3 grand on a used motor. I drove it home and a few days later it wouldn't turn over at all. Went and got a new battery a couple of weeks ago and it started just fine, now it's not getting fuel. I should have junked that POS last year. But thanks for the video. There was a couple of things you mentioned that I would not have thought about. Thanks.
Fuel pressure regulator will do that too . No fuel pressure. It’s in side the plastic part of the intake on the side of the spider injection . When you turn key and fuel shoots to your injector the regulator leaks gas and releases the fuel pressure causing it to be hard at crank
@@daftnord4957 when you take the upper intake off , it’s just a hollow box on top of your lower aluminum intake. Spider injection mounts in the middle . Fuel pressure regulator is mounted on the side of the fuel injection. It will leak gas and pretty much leak into the intake ports to the heads going to the valves and will eventually fire up . I got a couple old tahoes in the yard and one has a bad fuel pressure regulator on it . I’ll turn the key over for the fuel pump to kick on 3 or 4 times before I try cranking it up and the last time I’ll crank it and it will fire right up . If I don’t do that it will loose fuel pressure and won’t crank . Just turns over is all it will do
@@daftnord4957 another problem I’ve ran into on these 5.7 vortec fuel pump issues is the oil pressure regulator on the back of the block right under the distributor. Oil makes its way to the pig tail thru the oil pressure regulator and it will short out and cause the fuel pump not to work . And it’s around a $15 part . It’s a long cylinder looking part under the distributor
Why not the fuel regulator?, I was wondering because I went and picked up all three things in case; how do I verify it’s not the regulator over the filter or pump?
Hey chris, chris here. I have a similar issue with the same motor but ive replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, distributor crankshaft sensor ignition control module and cranks start and once it starts and gets to 1000 rpm it dies. Any ideas what it would be for a 99 suburban k1500
I have the same issue, in my case it was my Security Module. No codes or anything. The module just goes bad, Look into a ProRebuild Module specific to your truck.
@@eslamalmeshhery5621 no bro, sadly i had to sell it. The guy i sold it to is a mechanic for chevy and if figured it out. The security system was malfunctioning so it would shut down the motor on the start up. Runs good now but before it would crank up to a lil over 1000rpm the shit down immediately.
When I have these problems. I do away with the electronic Ignition and put older electronic Ignition systems on them. Go back to an inline fuel pump and do away with that stupid throttle body and computer. And I have a good running car computers missed them up
th-cam.com/users/shorts9mJ_4QsgoZk?si=mlVULwz7KgVdecwA What else would cause no fuel? Test coil,icm,cam,crank sensor all good 12v and with testlight fuel pressure 60 63 when cranking pump has 12v relay is good grounds are good
Great video Chris! I've got a '99 Chevy 5.7 P30 too. Mine was running, drove it home and now it won't start. I checked the valve for fuel and it's shooting out, cranks and cranks but won't start. Replaced Dist Cap (a LOT of white corrosion), no go - doing rotor tomorrow. This video helped me a lot, thanks!
Did your truck finally crank? I need answers lol
@@alexandergonzalez3107 In my case it was the rotor and cap. I also had a cracked manifold. Been running great for a couple months now.
Great video. I just spent 3 grand on a used motor. I drove it home and a few days later it wouldn't turn over at all. Went and got a new battery a couple of weeks ago and it started just fine, now it's not getting fuel. I should have junked that POS last year. But thanks for the video. There was a couple of things you mentioned that I would not have thought about. Thanks.
Well done dude
Great info Chris 👍
👌👌👌 Great vid Chris !!! could you help me out, I have a 95 Chevy Cavalier that stalls after driving for about 15-20 min and starts up again after?
Fuel pressure regulator will do that too . No fuel pressure. It’s in side the plastic part of the intake on the side of the spider injection . When you turn key and fuel shoots to your injector the regulator leaks gas and releases the fuel pressure causing it to be hard at crank
Would that let leaking gas into the engine to help it start? Or can the gas not get sucked into the engine to help pop it off
@@daftnord4957 when you take the upper intake off , it’s just a hollow box on top of your lower aluminum intake. Spider injection mounts in the middle . Fuel pressure regulator is mounted on the side of the fuel injection. It will leak gas and pretty much leak into the intake ports to the heads going to the valves and will eventually fire up . I got a couple old tahoes in the yard and one has a bad fuel pressure regulator on it . I’ll turn the key over for the fuel pump to kick on 3 or 4 times before I try cranking it up and the last time I’ll crank it and it will fire right up . If I don’t do that it will loose fuel pressure and won’t crank . Just turns over is all it will do
@@daftnord4957 another problem I’ve ran into on these 5.7 vortec fuel pump issues is the oil pressure regulator on the back of the block right under the distributor. Oil makes its way to the pig tail thru the oil pressure regulator and it will short out and cause the fuel pump not to work . And it’s around a $15 part . It’s a long cylinder looking part under the distributor
Thanks.
Thanks!!!!!
Thanks I just had fuel. Regulator put my truck still not starting he saying battery aren't enough voltage it a hard start
Always check oil level first
Chris how come you haven't made anymore video's on the chevell
I’m not going to finish any cars until I get a shop built…
Please, can you do another video on the filter and fuel pressure regulator, pump?
I got no spark and no fuel pressure?
Hey was your fuel pump priming when you kept turning the key?
Why not the fuel regulator?, I was wondering because I went and picked up all three things in case; how do I verify it’s not the regulator over the filter or pump?
you need a gauge to check the exact pressure.. I didn’t have to do that because mine started but that would of been the next step
So if it hadn't started with starting fluid. It would have been fuel pressure regulator?? @@chriscraft77022
93 chevy g20 fuel pump relay location
Hey chris, chris here. I have a similar issue with the same motor but ive replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, distributor crankshaft sensor ignition control module and cranks start and once it starts and gets to 1000 rpm it dies. Any ideas what it would be for a 99 suburban k1500
I have the same issue, in my case it was my Security Module. No codes or anything. The module just goes bad, Look into a ProRebuild Module specific to your truck.
@@BGObs2619 appreciate it
@@XIIIZGXIII Hi bro, I have the same thing with my k1500.
did u solve it?
@@eslamalmeshhery5621 no bro, sadly i had to sell it. The guy i sold it to is a mechanic for chevy and if figured it out. The security system was malfunctioning so it would shut down the motor on the start up. Runs good now but before it would crank up to a lil over 1000rpm the shit down immediately.
Wondered that about mine. But thought if fuel pump is bypass then it wouldn't be security since it disables fuel
Okay so I have fuel pressure but mine doesn't start if I spray fuel injector it'll start and turn off
you need a fuel pressure gauge and see what the actual pressure is
Mine too! I cleaned throttle body really good too. It stalled in a drive through when I was very low on gas. I haven’t got it running since.
@@amypieh5469 if you were very low on gas it could have sucked up crud and clogged the fuel filter
My fuse box have no power same vehicle
When I have these problems. I do away with the electronic Ignition and put older electronic Ignition systems on them. Go back to an inline fuel pump and do away with that stupid throttle body and computer. And I have a good running car computers missed them up
you just have to be patient with fuel injection.. I hated it when I was younger and I used to do that.. but now I take my time
Anyone havin trouble with the security lock
th-cam.com/users/shorts9mJ_4QsgoZk?si=mlVULwz7KgVdecwA
What else would cause no fuel? Test coil,icm,cam,crank sensor all good 12v and with testlight fuel pressure 60 63 when cranking pump has 12v relay is good grounds are good