ACID Rust Removal - DIY - Cheap & Easy! - Let's see if it'll clean these Nasty Headers!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 พ.ค. 2021
- We're going to try an experiment and see if the DIY acid bath will clean up these headers.
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#acid #rustremoval #rust #acidstripping #stripping - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
You have to use baking soda to neutralize the acid and I bought a kitty pool from Walmart to soak my metal Parts in thanks for sharing
Yessir. I guess that part didn't make it in the video. The files were probably corrupted, which happens quite a bit unfortunately. Thanks for watching 👍🏼👍🏼
Great vidio ! I have used muriatic acid on concrete with great success. Have been experimenting with vinegar etc on metal rust . So glad I found this video . Thanks from Ohio .
Great viewing and interesting , certainly more diy than blasting if you didn't have the sandblaster ,thanks for sharing the experiment 👌
Thanks! It worked pretty good for those awkward and big headers 👍🏼👍🏼
heres a cheap easy tester - red cabbage juice will turn red/pink in acids- or more purple/blue if alkaline. I use it as a cheap soil indicator in gardens - especially convenient if there cabbage growing. the waste-leaves you'd scrap become free test strips.
Wow that's really cool. I never knew that. I'll have to give it a try sometime 👍🏻👍🏻
I would have NEVER expected this result. I have been a mechanic and fabricator for over 50 years and never knew this.
Pretty crazy, right? 👍🏼 Be sure to neutralize the acid with baking soda after if you do it yourself. And wear a respirator 👊🏼👊🏼
Excellent video!
Thank you! 👍🏼
Cool. Well done!
Thanks for watching 👍🏼👍🏼
I like Muriatic acid so well, I put that S$%t on everything. I use modeling clay for hobby store, plug drain holes in the doors of my 67 C10, then pour mixture in using common sense. Acid into water always, not other way. But like you, I pour the diluted hydrochloric acid into plastic commercial barrels for re-use and label. But I want surface rust, rust that formed during weld repair and deep into folded seems clean. Pour baking soda box in while gently hosing with water, swish around any left over, remove clay then rinse. To dry, I use a leaf blower, works fast if warm. But I use a detail spray gun, spray 1:1 automotive grade epoxy inside and try hard to get everything inside. I run a thread tap thru all captured nuts. Works great for places you can't get.
Yes, your headers are mild steel. Never heard of any galvanized and if stainless, you get very little action. All PPE and activated carbon respirator like worn durning painting cars. Not "N-95" that is dust particles that won't stop virus molecules. Step daughter is in cardiac diagnostics. They look & make people feel good, no safety value on micron level as a human hair is 70 microns and the SARS-cov19 virus is average 0.12 microns. Next door neighbor of 29 years works at 3M plant and says the CDC & government has been dancing around this issue by mandate to be obscure and unclear on purpose. They may keep the virus inside the masked wearer especially if moist by incoming, not so much. Gaps around the perimeter fit is number one. This is why activated carbon mask come with rubber face seal to allow for negative pressure testing by anyone wearing one, prior to use.
DK, ASE master tech, retired.
Good info. Thanks. The acid sure does work great for those hard to reach spots. Sure beats the mess of a sandblaster. I'm glad you liked the video 👍🏼👍🏼
Do the same thing with white vinengar... 2 gallons mixed with 2 gallons of water.... Trash can and a HD bag to put the headers in... Rig it up to lean to one side without dumping it out then let it sit for a cpl days lol... Still us a small cheap spot blast in some areas though to peen the badly pitted spots, then prep em for some bbq paint.
I'll try that next summer 👍🏼
That was impressive. I have a set of Super Comps that are rusted like yours. I've had them for a long time. I'm going to take your advice and give this a shot. Thanks!
Right on. You can use less acid than I did because it takes a lot of baking soda to neutralize the acid when you're done. The result is the same, it just might take a little longer.
@@HFG Excellent, thank you very much!
Any time. 👍🏼
I got the same brand and type of muriatic acid the other day at HD to try to remove some stubborn caked-on encapsulated rust on some auto parts I was cleaning up. I mean the kind that looks like hardened blackened grime but if you go at it with a grinding bit or scraper revealed the rust trapped inside. It's common to find such rust all over older parts in the rust belt and it's a pain to remove it mechanically since it's usually found in spots and patches and you have to break up each one individually. So I decided to try this acid to see if it would work faster.
Several issues with it, this brand and type at least. First, it's already diluted, to around 15-20% strength, which is why it's claimed to have "90% lower fumes". So you don't need to dilute it further for such tasks. I did that initially and nothing happened, so I kept reducing the amount of water I cut it with until I used it straight, and that's when I started to see it work. It should still work if you add it to water (and never the other way around where add water to it!), but will just take longer.
Second, once it's removed all the rust and other crud, you need to not only wash it off with water, but neutralize it with a base such as baking soda liberally mixed into water. Otherwise trace amounts of the acid or chlorine that it breaks down into will remain on the metal and ironically cause further rusting, especially in deep and hard to reach or see crevices, and will continue to rust it even if you paint over it, especially if cracks eventually emerge allowing in oxygen and/or water. So neutralize it and less it stay on it a while, and only then rinse it off. And then either prime and paint the part, or coat it with something that will resist flash rust until you're ready to prime and paint it.
Also, you need to use full PPE with this stuff, long acid-proof gloves, safety glasses, face shield, and a decent chemical respirator if you use it indoors (probably unnecessary if you use it outdoors, especially if there's a breeze). And don't wear anything you wouldn't want to ruin, or use it on nice anything nice like clean concrete or paving stones as it etches masonry.
I've decided to not use it on "complex" parts, meaning ones with nooks, crannies and crevices that the acid can find its way into and that might not be fully neutralized, or anything with threads that it could eat away at and ruin. I'll stick to either mechanical rust removal methods, or one of the many phosphoric acid-based chemical solutions.
Acid has its pros and cons for sure 👍🏼👍🏼 This was more of an experiment.
Just after high school one of our friends was drinking and said cracks and nookies instead of nooks and crannies . (Alcohol related) we still say cracks and nookies .
If you have a big enough tank you can use electrolysis to remove the rust. (Plenty of TH-cam videos on this.
Saw You comment on PFS and It made me check out your channels. looks good man liked and subbed keep up the good work.
Thanks! I really appreciate it 👊🏼👊🏼
That's awesome thanks for sharing I'm going to do this asap
Cool. Be careful with it. It's nasty.
Thanks for the info!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏼👍🏼
Very interesting video. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks. I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for watching 👍🏼
Oh hell yeah! Your a GWAR fan! Me too.. Since 89
Hell yeah!!! GWAR for life.
Whoa... im impressed
Me too! I've never seen rust flake off. 👍🏻
Nice vid buddy !
Thanks bud!! 👊🏼👊🏼
Great video dude!! Going to do this on my 360 headers, in the exact same shape…
Good luck and be safe. Don't breath the fumes 👍🏼
You could have also boiled the headers in a metal gallon on open fire and add the mixture you used it will fasten the process and even deeper cleaning but your way worked too👍👍👍
Cool! I don't have a way to easily do that but I'll keep it in mind for the future 👍🏻👍🏻 Thanks.
KABOOM
Good job
Thanks 👍🏼👍🏼 Came out pretty good.
The bravery of using hydrochloric acid without gloves or a mask - even if it is 35% concentration. 😂
I would have hit that with a fine brush every couple hours just to check for pitting and smoothing out any potential problems. Definitely could’ve cleaned that whole thing a lot quicker. Doesn’t need to soak that long and clearing debris will expose more rust and steel but still really cool to see a video showing this used on headers! Didn’t think that would be hard to find a video of- but it was and now I feel much better about my idea for cleaning rust off old headers. 😂 thank you!!
I used a respirator when I didn't have to talk to the camera :) There are definitely better ways to prep it but I was curious to see what happened if you just put them in without any effort. I have to say, they're still in great condition. I'm glad you found the video helpful 👍🏼👍🏼
@@HFG hahah I am very glad to hear that. Man oh man, made me feel like a wimp watching it like damn… I would be way too freaked out to be doing that without gloves or a mask. Did you see any pitting on the steel? I couldn’t really tell from the size of the video
@@recklssabndon there was a little pitting but that was there before the acid. I got these headers off a truck in a junk yard that had sunk into the dirt for a decade. I'm honestly surprised that they're in decent shape. They've been on my Dodge D150 ever since.
That's awesome
That's pretty wild! Back in my youth we used diluted hydrochloric acid to clean milking equipment. Yummy! 😂
Wow. I didn't know that stuff was used at all in the dairy industry. Crazy.
@@HFG yeah it's pretty heavily diluted and requires a lot of rinsing afterwards but that's what we use to clean them.
Are you sure it wasn't phosphoric acid? Thats what milk stone remover is.
love the channel name!
Thanks! It sums it up pretty well I think :)
Wow that Acid ate the rust right off!
You can use.. White Vinegar.. Soak an old towel, rag, napkins.. And wrap the rusted object..and let it soak for a day or more..
Yeah it did a great job! Cheap too
You have officially learned the ways of the acid dip :p
I guess so. I put a cast iron exhaust manifold in it yesterday and it was making crazy bubbles. I think they're hydrogen but I'm not taking any chances with gas/vapors after the motorcycle battery incident of 2020
@@HFG What happened to the battery?
@@blueridgehollow2510 on my FZ6 the battery is under the tank so you have to partially remove it. Last year, or maybe it was the year before, I accidentally put my battery charger on 12v 40amp charge and got caught up doing stuff at the house for a couple of hours. When I started heading back to the shop I noticed smoke pouring out from under the tank. It was boiling and melting the battery. To save the bike I had to get the battery out which meant having my face directly in rolling clouds of smoke and hydrogen sulfide gas while I unbolted that battery. Kinda poisoned myself. That was a rough year for poisoning myself lol
@@HFG Oh Crap!!! You're lucky it didn't explode! My Sportster's battery post melted last year on me and I'm not sure why as I didn't see any metal on metal contact, I figured the battery went haywire. Seeing plumes of smoke would freak me out for sure. Its not like you can simply chuck water on it to put it out lol.
@@blueridgehollow2510 must have been an internal short with the plates or something 🤷🏽♂️ I'm only vaguely knowledgeable about battery construction. Glad you didn't have a bigger problem 👍🏻👍🏻
I like the proof that the acid works. That's what I came to see. Years ago, I had an opportunity to buy a property that was on a well like yours. They had numerous junk vehicles. I wanted to get the well tested to ensure that the water hadn't been contaminated from the vehicles they had stashed around the property. I'm old, and can remember back when it was normal to dig a hole and pour your old motor oil "back into the ground where it came from". Watching you rinse that water off makes me wonder if your well is okay. Have you considered getting it tested?
Our well is 120ft deep and over 400' from the shop. Nothing I do in my shop will affect water sources, especially the well. We have wildlife around the shop and I'm always conscious of what they could be exposed to 👍🏼
Nice 👍🏽
👊🏼👊🏼 They came out great!
citric acid also is amazing to remove rust!
True. This was just cheaper 👍🏼 a little more dangerous though.
I bet you could paint em with mustard... And the vinegar in mustard will eat the rust off.. Wash em like a day later..
Interesting idea.
Wow , gotta try mustard 😊
Regular vinegar works great too, but flash rusts easy. So, get off all the major rust with, mustard, vinegar or muriatic acid, then wash with water, then wipe on the real rust remover stuff because that crap is expensive and prevents flash rust. Then paint it with high heat paint
Phosphoric acid works also and doesn't flash rust.
Infact it converts rust to iron phosphate which is black in color.
That would be pretty cool. It's just so much more expensive than this per gallon. If I can find it cheap then it would be a good alternative since muriatic acid is so corrosive. 👍🏼
you can even use white vinegar to remove rust
For sure 👍🏼
11:30 you hear the host coughing . Could the muriatic acid be working on his lungs also?
I couldn't make the video and wear a respirator at the same time.
Did you neutralize the acid on and inside the headers with sodium bicarb or just water? I"m concerned that with minimal dilution, the metal will rust under the paint.
I neutralized it with sodium bicarb really well before it was dried and painted. They've been on the truck for awhile now and are perfect. No rust inside.
@@HFGcool, I was wondering about that.
The acid wasn't super strong anyway and the steel was a decent thickness. I don't know for sure but I'd think that the high temps from the exhaust would destroy any acid. Regardless, it's been great so far.
@@HFGActually, heat will not break down the acid, it will make it react more vigorously. HCl if it did break down would to it's component elements of hydrogen and chlorine, would really screw things. That's what happens when an acid 'attacks' something, those elements separate and find new homes with other elements to become more stable. I'm willing to bet that your baking soda bath captured all the remaining acid and left you with a clean product.
I didn't know that. Good thing I neutralized it really well then 👍🏼
You might consider rinsing the inside of the pipes to prevent the acid from eating the inner surface.
They were rinsed pretty thoroughly with water and baking soda. It took quite a bit of baking soda.
Yes! I have been doing a lot!! Of tool clean up and restoration the last couple of weeks... and I've used a lot of vinegar and it's also acidic. I've found if you don't neutralize it the rust comes back very quickly and worse ... so I've been using a backing soda solution... I think it will work on this too
@@donscottvansandt4139 baking soda works great. I'm not sure why that part did t make it into the video unless the footage was lost or corrupted. It happens more than you might think.
I soaked the headers in a baking soda bath and neutralized the acid bath with a ton of it afterwards. The headers have been rust free.
Haha I thought you said half a** garage lol
That's the joke :) Maybe it's not the best name for a channel but I try not to take life too seriously lol
@@HFG I think it’s a goon name ima give you a sub
@@kaboom1077 Thanks! I hope you like the videos 👍🏼👍🏼
@@HFG no problem my project is a 88 gt so hopefully some of your videos like this will help!
@@kaboom1077 I hope so too 👍🏼👍🏼
I've soaked towels in muriatic acid an wrapped a rear end pulled the towel off a few hours later it removed all the rust
That's a cool trick. I would have thought the acid would have dissolved the towel. Maybe I'll try your way next time. The collectors might be tricky to clean with towels though.
I dipped some vintage rusty schwinn bicycle rims into muriatic acid and didn't do the best of jobs when neutralizing with baking soda,about 6 months later the rims were destroyed
Oh man! I'm sorry to hear that. Was it diluted or straight acid? Even at 20% strength it takes quite a bit of baking soda to neutralize it. I don't know if I filmed the neutralizing part or not.
I neutralized that acid, refilled the pan with water and added a bunch of baking soda then soaked the headers again. Once they'd sat for a day I washed them a lot with fresh water and they've been perfect.
@@HFG The acid was straight out of the jug,full strength, I was in to much of a hurry to clean them and full strength muriatic acid ate the rust off quickly.
@@eastside0434 from everything I've been told, full strength is too aggressive. I haven't tried it at that strength before. I don't have a ton of experience with it so I can't offer much help other than that, unfortunately.
@@HFG what I learned from it is its extremely dangerous,must be very careful with it.
Interesting process for sure! Not great for the apocalyptic builds unless you go with shiny chrome paint to impress the ladies.
Ouch. That's a tough loss. This method definitely has its own place. Thick stuff seems to be it's sweet spot.
@@HFG Well it was my fault. Just got to keep a close eye.
@@blueridgehollow2510 yeah. I can see this process going south pretty quick. Another option is vinegar. It's not quate as corrosive. I will say that Evapo-Rust is some amazing stuff if you haven't used it.
@@HFG It became as thin as paper lol. Maybe you could do another video in the future comparing the different methods.
@@blueridgehollow2510 the vinegar vs muriatic acid methods? It's essentially the exact same except the vinegar takes a lot longer. I reckon I could. I didn't realize it when I made the acid video but there are quite a few Muriatic acid rust removal vids on YT already. I think mine is the best though :)
You can use it to kill stumps with in a year it will fall apart
Good idea. 👍🏼👍🏼
Dude. Gloves!
👍🏼
Can you, Zinc coat headers?
I'm not sure. I've never really heard of it before but who knows. I didn't think zinc/galvanizing could withstand the temps.
People put that acid down the drain to remove clogs. Thats what its made for.
You can clean brick and concrete with it too.
Soak in acid, rinse with water, dry with a towel, then seal..
👌
How about sandblasting?
Sand blasting would work great. I've always wanted to try the acid though since it's way cheaper. 👍🏼
the druggist in town said you want to neutralize the part after the soak, You use baking soda and water as mentioned and keep the part wet for a bit. then dry it fast. he said air and even a heat gun to help it dry fast. Then the rustoleum or harbor freight etch primer then paint. for mixing Its acid into the water NEVER the other way around.
It's been awhile since I made that video so I don't remember everything in it, but I did neutralize it with baking soda afterwards. So far they've been holding up really well. I appreciate the info, and you watching. Thanks 👍🏼
If you do use it make sure you neutralize the crap out of it.
For sure. I used a bunch of baking soda then checked the PH with test strips to make sure it was safe. I think some of the video files were corrupted and didn't make it into the finished video, though. The joys of being a small time, wanna be TH-camr 😆
...and 2 days after running them, they are right back to rust again. Good work!!
Kinda. I blame the "high temp paint" but they are in a lot better condition that they started off. 👍🏼
@@HFG cant blame ya for trying
Lay down a trash bag put parts on it saves the product keep parts wet ✌️
full strength would be fine on that job..........its already diluted in the bottle.
Don’t put water in it use it straight works better won’t harm it
Thanks. I'll try that next time. 👍🏼
I noticed you keep clearing your throat. That my man is why you need a respirator when working with muriatic acid.
Mainly it's because I'm allergic to cats and we have 4 of them 😺
It will get worse after it gets dry
So far everything has been great. Of course the paint burned off within 5 seconds 🤷🏽♂️
Good stuff, but don't use it on chrome!!!
Thanks for the tip. I'm not a big fan of chrome so no worries there. Nasty fumes or something?
@@HFG What I have experienced is that if you leave it on the chrome too long it will discolor and stain it.
@@IronHorseGarage oh ok. That makes sense. Chrome is so hard to keep clean I usually steer away from it. I love the luster and color of aluminum so that's what I typically buy.
@@HFG I don't care for chrome myself either, I like to black everything out...
@@IronHorseGarage nice. Nowadays I hear chrome is insanely expensive to have done.
Muriatic acid is so scary to use. I try to not use it at all. In fact I wish they'd make smaller bottles to buy. The one I have I just feel like is going to eventually melt through the bottle at some point and drip off my shelf. But I'd rather use muriatic acid with two gloves, a respirator and safety glasses than weld through galvanization (even more toxic!).
Count me in as super impressed with exactly how well it worked!
I'm not a huge fan of acid either tbh. Desperate times and all that :) yesterday I dropped some galvanized tube into the acid bath. I'll send you some pics later when I get home.
I use it as Pool pro every single day. It’s not scary. It’s just a chemical like anything else. It’s only dangerous if you’re stupid.
And the smell, the smell is all there.
You say cheap $83. gallon.
What? It's $10/gallon at Home Depot
Where are you looking that they're trying to charge $83 for it? It's a really common acid here for cleaning cement and brick, too.
Don’t used that stuff it’s dangerous I have no clue why there selling it . I ran industrial building if you do Decide to do where that Breaking bad suit . Vinegar will do the same job but it takes a little longer
It's used to clean concrete and brick, usually.
you must not like your hands very much
That's awesome
That's awesome
Thanks for watching 👍🏻