Prop shaft and fuel tank trouble
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.พ. 2019
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In this video I start taking the prop shaft out but get stuck for the right tools to remove the flange from the gearbox end of the shaft.
I also find an oil seal at the top of the rudder shaft and try to remove the bearing below it.
Finally while cutting the rubbing strip from the chine diesel begins to run out of the hull. I then quickly drain that tank, open the inspection hatch and clean out the tank ready for welding.
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I am getting ridiculous addicted to this rebuild, thank you!
Me too! This fuel tank issue is going to get tricky!
yeh me too
it is true, its better than tv shows
Me too, scary working under there with little sticks holding it up. Doesn't look very stable.
yep, got me to!!
I live on a narrowboat in England, and I can certainly relate to your 'engine closet'! One of my friends has a 100 year old narrowboat, with an engine from history, but at least it's got its own room :-)
It is a luxury to be able to move right around an engine. :)
You knew this before you bought her: It's Not that there's nothing that you can't fix, it's more like there's nothing that you can't fix many times better than it was. Many people would be overwhelmed by the whole spectre, and for the original builder the mandate was to just get it launched, however that has to happen.
I'm very impressed by the way you think things through at each step.
Thanks Marty. I'm looking enjoying the process so far and looking forward to taking the opportunity to try to make each bit better as I go.
Thanks Stu........ learning by watching, they say experience is the best teacher, and gaining from yours is a blessing.
You're welcome Frank, glad you're enjoying. :)
Enjoying this and remembering my dad working on his old boats.
Thanks mate.
It's so nice to find a channel where you are talked to and not at. I'm an old enginner from soggy England well past his sell by date and whilst I have messed about with boats most of the time it's been automotive work. I do like the way you present your videos, can't stand the bucket mouth brigade. Years ago I found several inches of petrol sloshing around in the bottom of a 40 foot cabin cruiser. Fags out chaps. Nearly filled a 50 gallon drum. We took it in turns bailing into a plastic bucket with a cut down coke bottle. I felt like crap for a while. Got given a big bottle of best malt. Good days.
Thanks mate. Glad you got just reward for your time down in the bilge! :)
I don't know hardly anything about boats, but I did rent a moored steel body yacht in 2012 for about 6 months to live on when I couldn't find anything else last-minute. Watching you rebuild this boat gives me memories of that old steel rustbucket.
"Engine closet". Best name for a small engine room, ever. Thank you for all your videos, Stu. Hoping to get my new, secondhand boat, 2005 Quicksilver 640 with a 90HP outboard in a few weeks.
Nice what kind of 90 horse is it?
@@BornAgainBoating A Mariner 4-stroke 90 HP, also from 2005. Very few hours on it, apparently only around 100.
@@ChrisSchroth awesome sounds like a nice boat
Nice one! I hope you have lots of fun with the new boat. :)
Ahhhh the "sweat equity" quote was right mate. You are doing an awesome job and showing us what is possible if you stay positive and learn from mistakes. Keep going comrade.. it will all be worth it when you're cruising up the coast with Coopers in hand smiling and reminiscing about the early days when you were below deck in 45 degrees swearing your head off :):)
Thanks Mark. I think you arrived at Fenwicks for just about the lowest point of this project so looking forward to seeing you again once it is all smooth sailing on the water. :)
@@DangarMarine yep you looked like you needed a trip to the Anglers that day for sure :) ...glad you got the site sorted that day instead...a big relief
Thanks for taking us along Stu. Enjoying the project mate
Me too, I'm really interested in how hes going to fix that leak in the fuel tank
I have learnt so much from this channel. From working on Outboard Motors to rebuilding an old steel boat. I Love it :)
@@PittwaterMowing I know, hes on point and makes a lot of great videos. I'm glad he started this steel boat series, it's super interesting!
Stu I have enjoyed watching your excellent videos since I found your steel hull boat series, after watching this one removing the coupling I remember when I worked as a maintenance electrician removing couplings between large generators and alternators I used to use a centre punch and give both sides of the coupling a pop with the punch so they could be lined up later and if more couplings were there give them two pops each side won't rub off better than paint. Looking forward to more on your boat Robin Brown.
Yes, paint certainly can rub off, although usually not completely. Punches are great way to go though.
New to the channel. Really enjoying the details you provide in this restoration. When I first saw your dog, I immediately thought of another great channel, “Travels with Geordie”. Peter Knowles is restoring an old wooden boat, a Monk cruiser, and is also very detail-oriented. His dog, Geordie, unfortunately passed away a while back. Best wishes!
Thanks mate, glad to hear you are enjoying the vids. :)
It is so much fun watching someone else work on a boat!
Hang in there, if that was me by this stage I would be seriously depressed with all the frustrating stuff that doesn’t go to plan. Good to see you still seem interested and optimistic.
It is tough some times but I love the boat and I'm really looking forward to getting her back on the water.
these videos help people all over the world, i,m in steel boat up a little river in england, cheers for your efforts.
You're welcome mate, glad to hear from another steel boat owner. :)
Wow, I thought I was hard done by when I went from restoring motorbike to Series Land Rovers...every little job got 50 times harder. Watching you, I've got it easy! Hang in there!
Hahha that's the funny thing about boats. You cant just fix "one" thing lol
Thank you for sharing, great to see you making headway. I cringe when I see the boat lifting but today's grinding through fuel suggests you may need a stunt double. All the best.
Yeah, especially on those stands :/ thankfully he wasnt using the torch!
Hey Stu , WoW what a project.... I really enjoy your videos, there is never anything easy to do when you do a rebuild, is it worth the time and $$$$$ , probably not but the enjoyment you receive in the end will make it all worth it. Keep us posted , looking forward to the next update. Thanks
It certainly hasn't been an easy job, but it will be worth it in the end. :)
@@DangarMarine There is one thing I really like with a steel hull , they are usually real quiet underway and at rest. Do you know the approximate weight of your boat when finished and what kind of cruise speed are you expecting. Just curious. Thanks . Tom
Appreciate your content Stu, bought a 16ft last year and just purchased a 24ft this year. Your knowledge has saved me a lot of time and swearing.
That's good to hear. Normally I cause a lot of swearing. ;)
A little Pro tip about the bearing. Take the torch and cut out the inner part of it. Then you do a weld on the inside of the part that is left. Let cool down. The weld will make I shrink enough that it will be easy to remove
Cheers from a diesel mechanic
Sweet, great idea!
pulled many a stuck dry liner that way and bearing races in blind holes
Yes, have used that technique to remove stuck bearing races before, but in this case the bearing is non metallic so I won't be able to weld it unfortunately.
I think that is more a bushing than a bearing I could be wrong. If it is a bushing and it is not steel (brass) ( nylon or rubber for that matter) there is probably nothing wrong with it. It never made a full rotation and at very low rpm. The corrosion on the rudder shaft was most likely the problem. Even if it was a metal that corroded a bit I would probably try to hone it a bit . Trying to help save money as I know how much time and material this stuff costs and in AU. I am sure it is worse.The thing I would do to the actual post is get 2 short pieces of angle iron and weld from near the top of post to a gusset or rib on the stern . That post is always a weak spot. When you have the wheel hard over in reverse it tries to suck the rudder into the prop. Altho the shoe connecting the bottom of the rudder is a good design and alleviates that problem mostly.
@@DangarMarine wouldn't it be a bushing then? Can be wrong English is not my native language. But good luck!
Thanks mate, nice to see you getting a break on the small screw and nut 👍
Always nice to have a few bits come out easily. :)
Looks like your making some good progress Stu. She’s going to be great when done. Looking forward to the next video!
Thanks Jack. I'm certainly looking forward to seeing back on the water. :)
Stu, your persistence and ingenuity are so inspiring!
So true, this fuel tank problem is going to get tricky and interesting!
I love watching this. It takes years of experience to know all of the necessary tricks to complete a difficult project like this. I couldn't do it, but it's fun to watch someone who can.
The fuel from the boats emptied starboard fuel tank went straight into the Landy. I'm glad you bought that boat cheap as there is a lot of work needed doing sometimes in cramped places while sweating.You will eventually sort out all the problems and have the boat in tip top shape.
Yes, looking forward to seeing everything fixed up and ready to sail again.
I know it's a bit late but when pulling something apart, a centre punch marking both components then taking a photo helps a lot when re-assembling.
This makes me feel better. Now I know I was not the only one that made a hole on his fuel tank while trying to fix something else :). It really sucks when you start smelling gas, you keep hoping that is just water but no, it's gas.
I did for a moment think it might have just been water trapped behind the doubler, but in some ways I'm glad it was diesel because it is a much better rust inhibitor than salt water!
@@DangarMarine That is true. Greeting from Arizona man. Love the videos.
Ok. I'm addicted! You should have such a much bigger following!
I worked on fishing boat in Alaska for a longtime. Lots of shafts and pumps to rebuild. Before I quit they started having seal surface on shafts for pumps ceramic coated. The ceramic coating was tough. Seals were not wearing into the shafts or speedy sleeves like before. Gland packing and rubber seals did not wear away on the ceramic coating. Pumps lasted longer. Rebuilds were easy. New seal and no need to send out the shafts. We had a lathe to machine stainless steel bushings for them but ceramic coating was best solution to seal wear. We could sleeve them but ceramic is harder than steel or stainless steel.
That's good to know, I think I'll do this one next year.
Man, I am loving your videos. That hole in the fuel tank is bad news. I would choose to weld every hole you find inside it. I was amazed how easy that nut came loose inside that flange. I hope you have as easy a time getting the shaft out. I can't wait to see what you do next.
Welding inside that tank is going to be really interesting lol
Hi Stu, the screw that was holding the prop shaft nut is know as a "scotch" key. I've seen them used in toolmaking application. They look a bit rough but work well. I'm local to you and have some engineering equipment and experience if you need assistance happy to assist. John
There ya go! He could probably use a hand sometimes!
I am so happy to read your comment, Boating Boy. As knowledgeable and able as Stu is, I bet he could make good use of your eyes and brain if not your equipment. Way to go!
Stu - That screw jammed in between the nut and shaft is obviously not correct. I would talk to a machine shop about making a new castellated nut and then cross drilling the prop shaft and installing a cotter pin.
Or cut a keyway in the shaft and make a nut with the top 4-6mm cut to slightly larger than the threads and peen that part into the slot (think FWD car).
Or cut a keyway in the shaft, make a thin "tab washer" (think outboard prop nut) with a tab into the keyway. Install this washer first then the big nut (make a spanner so you can tighten it properly). Use a hook to reach in the housing and grab the tabs and pry them over the flats of the nut
I wouldn't worry about the screw holding the nut . No real pressure there. Just holding the nut . Actually the only time the nut would do anything is in reverse anyway. Lots of shafts are not threaded at all. Just a c clip I was talking about earlier
Thanks John. That's a very kind off, I might need to take you up on that! :)
You are making a lot progress in a short period of time. Plus editing and up loading videos. Great job Stu!!
Thanks John. I feels really slow at first but I think the momentum is building up now.
Inspirational stuff Stu. Gees mate you are averaging 576 new subscribers a day for the last month. That would have to make your new boat the best AND worst purchase you have ever made Well done :)
LOL, it will be the best when it is finished! :)
I love what you do. Good luck on the steel boat. Thanks for sharing!
Loving every bit of this rebuild. Great stuff!
Me too!
Thanks for the video, really enjoyed seeing how you overcome some of the issues you encountered
Right! I'm thinking he might want to just pull the engine out and get more space in there
Cheers stu, nice hat. Keep up the good work, really enjoying following along with this one.
Jeeze! Glad it wasn't smello-vision! You must be immune to the stink of diesel, It makes me want to up-chuck.
Arn, my colleague from the workshop can't stand the smell of diesel either. If really doesn't bother me that much.
Hi loving this project thank you! looking forward to seeing the finished project, just a quick note problem with the light 10:08 cut a disc of plastic with a tab out of a milk bottle push it in to the end of that torch might disperse the light a bit better maybe sand it a bit .... just a thought hope it helps! Thanks again
Hi, You may find the doubling strip is covering a heap of rust and corrosion along the side of the boat. It may be easier to cut out the plate and replace the sides. It sound frightening but relatively easy.
So far the metal isn't too bad under the strip, but the point you make is a good one. Because I have never replaced a plate on a boat before I feel like I am shy of it from lack of knowledge rather than it being particularly difficult.
@@DangarMarine I replaced a heap in my boat, If you go this route support the side of the boat well.
Dangar !
I cant wait till next one ,
you are awesome and what you doing is super cool!
The reason for wing fuel tanks is the cooling effect on the fuel in contact with the water you are floating in. The fuel on GM diesels recirculates back to the fuel tank.
Good point, makes perfect sense.
Trust me I’m still keeping up with your progress. Love it.
Your best videos yet. love your way of getting it done. keep on keepin on. Admiration fro the UK.
Thanks mate!
Really appreciate your shareing all this!
Great work Stu, keep it up! Very much enjoying watching you get stuck into that gem of a boat!
Right! I wonder how this fuel tank issue is going to pan out
Really enjoy your vids... great content and well presented !! Hope your having as much fun making them as your followers have watching and learning. THANK YOU
It doesn't always feel like fun at the time but all the progress is satisfying.
Great video Stu. 10 out of 10 for lateral thinking.
Right, the paint on the alignment is great! You've gotta love the two different size nuts lol boats are great :)
I can smell the diesel fumes here in Scotland! That's dirty hot work. Satisfying work though - great videos Stu.
Getting there. Like your Landie. I live about 5 miles from where it was made. Cheers
That's cool you know that brand :)
A slide hammer works wonders for extracting shafts and bearings.
I've made a few. All you need is a piece of 10 or 12mm steel bar, anywhere between 450 to 750mm long.
Slide a good lump of heavy metal over it.
Anything you can grab comfortably with one hand, or two hands if you want a beast.
Weld a stout plate on one end, and whatever attachment you need on the other end.
Attach it to what you want moved, and slide away.
It's amazingly effective, much better than hitting a bar against something.
I put the head of a pick on one, the impact it could create was amazing.
Sliding the whole prop shaft from the outside might well be the way to go. There is enough weight in the shaft itself to work as a slide hammer I would imagine.
Stu. Grits gonna be a great boat in the long run. Keep up the good work !
Hes making great progress
Hey Stu, looks like really hard work in the heat in sydney the past few weeks. You must think what have you got yourself into sometimes. Keep it up, love watching your videos.
Thanks mate, can't wait for some cooler weather, that's for sure.
Enjoying all this. You have WAY more patience than I do.
Love this stuff......I'm going to guess many people go into a project like this but are not able to complete....I have a feeling you'll complete!!!
Thanks Paul. I certainly feel pretty determined at the moment. Looking forward to getting some paint on it. I think they I will feel that some real progress has been made.
@@DangarMarine oh you've aleady made so much progress, in fact it's the small arduous and necessary tasks that apply the brake for most enthusiasts....I know this as I love watching the restoration TV shows
keep at it stu it should be just a keyway and tapered shaft ,make shore it goes back true or it will wobble all over the place
Enjoying the videos. It’s one thing after the next. Keep plugging along should be a solid boat once you finish fixing her up.
Hello from Florida. Really enjoying your series. You dont show just the glamorous side of boating but the actual hard knocks and work. If you didnt have all the mechanical skills and welding skills and equipment could you have afforded to have someone else fix the boat?
Hey Buck. Glad you are enjoying the vids. No, I couldn't afford to have someone else do it. This week I couldn't afford to put diesel in the truck!
@@DangarMarine I am wishing you all the best. Looking forward to more videos.
The tell tale on the nut suggests that it was set and removed with a punch (see the witness marks on the flats of the nut)
Everything on this boat presents a challenge, just the stuff I love !
Loving this new project great work
It's getting really interesting isn't it? The fuel tanks been a real kicker!
Your doing a great job
Nothing is easy on this boat ! Good luck !
Thanks mate!
Thanks for the video. 👍
Just a note, when you put the socket between the prop shaft and the transmission you will be loading the thrust bearing in the transmission. You may want to ask someone who knows the insides of the transmission before you brake something. Just a thought.
Yes, being careful not to do any damage during the removal is an important point.
really enjoy your content.very interesting
Sure becoming a mammoth task. Good luck to you!
Thanks mate!
I have never owned a boat. Never driven a boat. Live no where near water. I don't know why the youtube algorithms decided to put this into my feed but this is my 4th episode in a row I have watched and I feel... a certain boat nerdness building inside of me.
Ah, this is how it starts my friend. :)
Pilot a boat ! 😁
Nice work stu you have a lot of work ahead of you my friend😬
You're not wrong Dean! Oh well, it will get there...
Regarding rudder shaft bearings.
Measure their clearance first. Then decide if bearing need to be renewed. Top bearing will normally last forever whilst bottom bearing may suffer wear due to corrosion of rudder shaft etc.
I think that is excellent advice. I've only got very limited time and month so replacing something that is still perfectly serviceable doesn't make any sense at all, particularly if it is going to be difficult to get out.
I used to work on a lot of process tanks with agitators of all types some almost 2 storys tall, I used to take about a 10mm/3/8" bar stock measure the flange holes to bolt it to the flange, then mark where the center drill spot was on the shaft and tap that hole with an M10 or M12 bolt pitch. Get several different length bolts to use as your press bolts, start small to get it to break loose,then use the longer bolts to move it through the coupling. You can make that flange bar longer on one side to allow holding from spinning, either by hand or turned into the deck or block of wood. Just a thought, take a mirror and flashlight and look to make sure nothing is in the coupling to restrict movement.
If you have a lot of coupling work you can make the coupling bolt holes slotted to fit other size flanges, just use hardened washers for the mounting bolts.
Nice idea for the tool. Will definitely take a good look for anything else holding it on.
In general. When i have a whole or rust in a fuel. Tank. I just seal it with lead filler. If it's a large whole. I tack a plate of steel over the whole. Then i get some mild Acid to clean the surface and then i fill with lead.
Sounds like it works. How long does it hold?
A mammoth task you have taken on. You have convinced me to run the other way, if I see a steel boat for sale..
What an awesome project
As well as a big project :)
I'm anxiously awaiting the next episode.
This is a great series. Im glad you d'ont edit out the mistakes and learning opportunities. Time for a Patreon account to help pay for this rebuild.
Thanks Gregg, if I edited out the mistakes it would be a very short video! Link to the Patreon account is in the video description. ;)
I'm really enjoying this series, just wish the episodes were longer.
Hi mate. I am tempted to make them longer. Unfortunately a lot of what happens is very repetitive (like removing the chine strip) so I'm not sure how interesting it would be. I think as time goes by there should be more content to film in which case I will either do longer videos or more than one each week.
@@DangarMarine Isn't 11 minutes plus the golden number so youtube gets to put in another advertisement? I'm sure most here would tolerate a bit of occasional repetition so that you earn more to help with your rebuild. A two minute montage of you climbing in and out of the boat a hundred times to Benny Hill music would be hilarious (for the viewers that is. Maybe not you)
Stick a cork in the pick up tube in the tank before cleaning. You should get a assorted bag of corks. They come in real handy on boats for a assorted reasons.
Yes, planning to get a full set of bungs to keep on board.
I seem to recall a movie about this. It think it was called The neverending Story. Hang in there Stu
Great title lol
Nice video. I think this boat is going to be nice when your done.
Thanks mate. I hope so!
I wish I were closer to your location ! Bang up job ! A lot of work yet to do but I’m sure your capable of doing it ! To bad you don’t have help ! A small deck crane would be a big help , even if it is a half ton capacity, I have one and it’s very useful. Waiting to see more videos from ya . SKOL BUD !
Thanks Dave. It's getting there, a little bit closer each day!
Anything worth having is worth doing your best work , I don’t like it when people say “ that will do “ and I can see your not one of those people ! Question- does that shaft have a set screw on it ? Maybe that’s why your lifting the boat up while your jacking ? Just a thought . 👍
Good job ! Keep fighting you'll get that ship in tip top in no time 👍
Drill and fill the rotted hole in fuel tank, get to good material, make a weldment plug if your clean-out hole gets too big,even a piece of steel rod, cut off flush and weld it in, sort pf like some of them plugs on the green machine.
Ah, the romance of owning a boat.
Stu, attach a catch rope or a net around he prop shaft so it can still move in rearward angle but not drop to the ground . Just my two cents Lots going on on this boat. Wishing you all the best luck.
Thanks mate!
“Strongback and Ventilation Required”
To get the shaft coupling seperated, fabricate a decent thick flange same hole PCD as the coupling holes, use UNF endless thread/booker rod, nuts and washers.
Put a solid piece of bar smaller than the shaft between strongback and shaft .
Tighten the strongback evenly, adding another solid spacer/socket etc once the travel finishes, basically jacking each of each other solid part.
Will come off easy, use 3 pieces of UNF to start with.
Like watching your weekly diary mate, I do get concerned about the confined spaces, sludge, fluids, ventilation and hot works that you do.
It can be a recipe as it gets very real very quick mate, especially in tanks.
Its a hot time of year as well mate n you looking a bit more knackered every week, roll on the cool winter in Aus mate.
Cheers
Malc
I like your technique using the strongback, certainly avoids risking damage to the gearbox flange. Your dead right about these confined spaces with the heat we've been having and the chemicals. You can never be too careful!
On the boats we build there is a thread on the flange for a hydraulic fitting, to remove the prop shaft flange you use hydraulic pressure to release the flange off the tapered shaft, I thought I saw a hole in the flange about half way..
Ah, that's interesting Nick. I'll take a closer look and see what I find.
Actually having that diesel leaking may have been a sign from above and saved you in the future. The hole looks like a torch cut, odd that it would be in the tank!! Good video, keep up the good work.
I agree. Anything you find out on the hardstand without getting hurt is definitely a win!
This is turning into a very interesting series and sure brings back some memories of ship repairs. One thing for sure I could no longer work in those cramped spaces with my joints ,can’t believe I once spent hours in n similar spaces 🙂🙂🙂
Boat builders away think of the ones that have to actually work on them :)
Born Again Boating , I often used to think the designers and builders should be made to work on their own boats, it’s fine and easy to drop an engine in after the shaft and couplings are fitted and before the deck is on, but going back later when there is no space or way to make working space is a nightmare.
Water tanks buried under decks with cabin furniture built above , when a pipe start to leak or a crossover ball valve seizes AHHHHg
@@alistairbarclay3116 Right! It almost gets ridiculous. I spoke with a guy from Marine Max a couple of months ago. He was telling me they were having to pull the engines out of certain new sea rays just to change the spark plugs!!! Are you kidding me? $100 in spark plugs for a "regular maintenance" and the bill is $10K to pull the engine! Common, that's out of control. I feel bad for some of the owners of the boats that have to deal with things like that ya know.
Born Again Boating , I remember going to pull wiring, In a new build in a yard in Normandy France, luckily the original sparks had left lots of fish lines but here , the engines went in before anything, and had three decks above. To pull the heads would be ok , but to change bearings would need block removal, so strip out crew quarters in the aft section and sun deck to remove . Guess what that would cost even on a Tupperware boat?
@@alistairbarclay3116 Hahahah that is wild! Even on a Tupperware boat lol that's funny! There should be like standards against things like that, especially on boats!
nice sun burn Stu. Love the show you crazy Ausi
The burns from the oxy torch are worse. ;)
Forgot this (prop shaft), you can make a press with all thread rod, a drilled through pusher pipe (male side) to match bearing and a relieved outside pipe (female) to send bearing into, cheap way would be remove grease fitting and slip pipe length 2 times longer than upper rudder shaft, let set on deck, then put your double nutted pipe stop. The bigger the all-thread rod, more force you can put on it, you might need a mate to help one outside driving and one inside monitoring and holding the jammed nut shaft from turning.
It is sort of like making a ball joint press without the c-clamp portion.
Lube the threads so they don't gall, I have even used impact drivers to move those kind of presses.
Check bearing hole for any type of mechanical blockage with mirror and flashlight.
Yes, I've done similar things when replacing bushing in car suspension. Another trip to the hardware store is definitely in order. Just wish it wasn't 100kms round trip!
The holes in that nut should be threaded so you can put bolt's in them and a pry bar between the bolt's to remove it.
Ah, that makes sense. I might take a look now the nut is off and tap them to clean them up.
Regarding the rudder bearing/bushing. And alternative to trying to cut it out. Get a piece of 18-20mm steel cut into the shape of a washer with about 19mm hole. Using more of the 18-20mm steel, weld up a "U" bridge with the legs about 10cm long. Put a 19mm hole in the center on the cross. Get a 19mm nut and bolt that is a bit longer than the rudder tube. You are making a "press" to push that bearing/bushing out out the bottom. Heating the rudder tube will likely be required.
Yes, I've seen a few custom pullers make up for situations like this. I think the only thing that has put me off is the length of the tube.
@@DangarMarine A 19x250mm bolt would be pricey. If you have any auto mechanic friend, I am sure they would have the tool for removing FWD wheel bearings. The receiver cup would like not be deep enough for the full press out, but once you get it moving that is half the battle. Look at a Astro 78825 or OTC 6537. I screw might be too short.
I know you’re breaking your back and im sure your bank account is taking a kicking,but I’m really enjoying it.If that’s any consolation.
I love your videos!
If you haven't already removed the flange try hitting the center divot on the shaft with a point on the air hammer while you pull on the flange. You might get the flange to walk up the shaft toward the (removed) engine. I use that trick to remove crankshaft pulleys that otherwise would need a puller to remove.
As a true land lubber. Enjoying this .
Put a block between and push the shaft forward. This will let you remove the key and pull the shaft aft.
I like that idea. It also means I could swing a hammer on the prop end and use some impacting force to break it free. Obviously have to be careful not to damage the end of the shaft but the nut should help there.
shaft is tapered and the way you said to remove it with longer bolts should do the trick. Malibu ski boats shaft coupling are same. good luck.
What a mammoth job Stu everything you seem to touch turns to shit loving it.
Still, every day's work puts me two days further away from finishing. ;)