Continuing to get the steel trawler ready for sandblasting
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ค. 2024
- In this video I remove some of the old paint, the seacocks, the cutlass bearing and the old sonar transducer mounting to get ready for sandblasting the hull.
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I appreciate the fact that you try hard to keep your mess out of that sweet body of water next to you.
You have the shortest 15 minute videos on TH-cam. That's not an insult. It amazes me how quickly I get to the end. It's kind of disappointing, but I know there's another one coming soon and I'm looking forward to it.
TheRfmodulator lol was just thinking exactly the same an asked for longer even if it’s mundane crap he is very knowledgeable an learning lots along the way
Just. Watch it twice,lol,then you’ve got half an hour worth and won’t forget anything.
@@harryweyer2174 :)
Thanks mate, I'm going to have a go at make the next video a bit longer to see how it goes. It isn't really any more work I just don't want it to be too boring.
@@DangarMarine Please do, I enjoy being along on the restoration journey too 👍🚢
This is the greatest series for boat enthusiasts on TH-cam. Thanks for going through all the trouble to record and do commentary! You're doing great!
I love to see dudes in shorts and tee shirts and jandals, with cutting torches, getting at it. It is just so much more real than having all that "proper" gear on .. big fan of your channel
Thanks mate!
Hello old friend. Memories of early Navy life... "welcome aboard shipmate, this is where you eat, this is where you sleep, this is where you work, this is a needle gun"
You are making major progress Stu. I’m hooked on this project and hope you make a video for each phase of the restoration, Wiring, plumbing, metal, etc. It’s all interesting to me!
Thanks Jack. Yep, will be filming each step of the way. I've still got a lot of thinking to do about the wiring as it is a complete mess at the moment. It will be nice to have it cleaned up and understand it a lot better than I do now. Think I need to buy a labeller! :)
Aw mate i worked at the Clyde oil refinery some time ago. The mention of Parramatta brought back some good memories. Except loosing to the Eels. Good on ya mate from kiwiland. keep up the great work 👍
Thanks mate!
You have the perfect setup with your stuffing box to do a mod that will make your life so much better. On either side of the stuffing box you have some framing/stringers, in the corners against the transom are notches to allow water to flow, step one, weld them up, step two weld in a bulkhead, about half the height of the framing/stringers, then install a bilge pump w/auto float in that now water tight area. The stuffing box, which should always have a very slow drip, will dribble in that area, and will eventually trigger the bilge pump, not only does this keep all the water in that one area, but it keeps the water clean for discharge, and place a secondary bilge pump under the engine for and emergency. Also note the reason I said to make the bulkhead 1/2 the height, is so if the pump fails water will spill over and be eventually pumped out by the under engine one. This is truly the best way I have seen deal with the stuffing box dribble. Also you could paint that area with some real good epoxy or put a plastic tote under there so water never touches steel.
Awesome idea!
Great minds think alike, that was the plan I mentioned having a couple of videos back. Already have the two bilge pumps now ready to wire in. :)
The needle gun brings back not-so-pleasant memories from my Navy days.
You know it's a nasty job when you have to get the needle gun put lol
It must be hell on the hands
X 2...
@@andrewdavis6917 never used a growler [thank goodness] but did plenty in the engineroom!
WHAT!?
your tenacity and resolve to get thru all these roadblocks is incredible.i agree with other commenters that this is a wonderful journey.
john
Thanks mate. :)
"Absolutely keep the number of through hull fittings below the waterline to a minimum" has always been my motto. To that end and since you are re-arranging the plumbing anyway, I would use an inlet water standpipe. Basically just one inlet through-hull with a valve and a riser and all internal feed lines coming off of that riser with their own shut-off valves. All drain lines should be above the waterline and that exhaust line also should be run out above the water line if you keep to a wet exhaust. Just saying that is the way I would approach it. Thanks for the videos!
Sounds like a solid policy.
The reason many boat builders put their overboard cooling discharge below the water line is because if you had it on the side of the hull above the water line, when you pull up to a floating dock you would have water pouring out onto the dock. Messy in the summer and dangerous in freezing winter temps as it could ice up the dock. Could you change it to above the water line? yes. but maybe consider putting it out through the transom. Looking great so far, it will be well worth the work and money spent once it's finished!
Good point about pulling up next to a dock, hadn't thought of that.
I'm really enjoying this project, your doing a thorough restoration, Ive been following your channel for a long time, sense the 80tys Ive been restoring old fiberglass boats, saving them from the land fill, their should be a way to recycle them but because there isn't people cut them up and toss them in the dumpsters or let them set forever on property, some get dumped in the woods or abandoned on the streets, after removing all ID. Manny are well worth restoring and I like doing that, I get a lot of good tips from you, thanks, keep up the videos they are greatly appreciated.
Thanks mate. Great to hear you are saving those old boats from ending up junk. :)
Totally got the fire out in the cabin now!!! spit my rum all over the keyboard! Got to agree with Rfmodulator...that was the fastest 15 mins! lovin this series, and sh#t's coming together...thanks for sharing again!
Thanks mate. It feels slow some days but it is getting there. :)
You're doing a good job utilizing the gas torch but here's a suggestion: When lighting your torch, begin with the acetylene side (1/8-1/4+ turn) then slowly add the oxygen side until your tips are SHARP and BLUE. If they aren't a sharp and clear blue, then the tips are clogged or there's not enough oxygen. Whenever you're cutting and there's a yellow smokey flame, then the flame is too rich (needs more oxygen). If after cutting a bit and you don't think the tip/flame is not hot enough, carefully and SLOWLY add a tad more acetylene and then fine tune again with the oxygen. Remember, clean tips and practice makes perfect. BTY you can start a hole with the torch. Simply hold the tip of the torch on the area you wish to bore a hole and let it heat (almost to cherry red) then add the oxygen lever; the sudden blast of O2 and the instant heat blows a hole in the material.
Thanks mate. It's great to see someone take the time to make such a helpful common and with respect and dignity as well. Much appreciated! I did a bit more cutting yesterday and I'm slowly getting better. Knowing what you are aiming for makes practice much more productive!
This project amazes me, I literally wait for the next video. Excellent project!
Thanks mate! :)
When you have a pipe union that is stuck, put a large hammer on one side of the union and smack the other side with a hammer that is not quite as large as the hammer you are using for a backup. This will cause the union to flex and as you work your way around it will loosen the threads so it will turn easier. When you start a cut with the torch and you are not near an edge, take a cold chisel and raise a burr at the point you want to start the cut. heat the burr read and touch the ox. This will blow a hole and give you an edge to start the cut.
Wagar Carey good advice mate you have obviously been there and done that
Thanks mate, appreciate the tips. :)
The burr trick only works when using acetylene with your oxy set.
@@AquaMarine1000
You should be able to blow a hole regardless. Heat a patch, turn the torch on its side and blow across the patch like you would gouging, square the torch up as your blowing oxygen and then away you go.
I call my two big hammers " getting to know you " hammers. The shock is the key.
Thank you for uploading this current update on your steel hull restoration, it's very interesting watching the repairs taking place. It's a pity your uploads are a bit short, I can watch you doing the upgrades all day long but I suspect a 20 minutes film takes hours to put together. looking forward to your next instalment on this amazing refit. Regards from a land lubber pom from the uk.😊
One YTer I watch that does How To videos on woodworking said he spent 6 hours on a 6 minute video...and it was very good. Another that does less refined videos on construction operations, no How To, said it takes him 3 hours to prep a 5 minute YT.
It is a long slow process unfortunately. You can definitely make them longer by having more footage of setting up or doing the actual job, but I'm not sure how interesting that would be.
@@DangarMarine that would be nice to see you get into the nitty gritty of the restoration, but i suspect you would need a film crew on site, to log every aspect of that restore.
Always leave them wanting more . Lol
Loving this series of bringing the old girl back to glory. Man, you have taken on a huge job with this and it's a credit to you for that! .
It has been a big job but I feel like I'm starting to get my head around what is left to be done.
I’m in awe, you are the ultimate Mr. Fix it. I am not worthy. I need to gouge out my eyes to keep the purity of the video.🤯😀🦄
LOL. Keep your eyes!
Your like me...you start a job and it gets to a point where you need other parts, equipment or dosh so it's put on hold. I just wish I had your stamina. Sometimes I wish my boat was steel and not aluminium. Steel I can weld but aluminium.....tried tig...I'm useless. I just love work...I can watch it all day..especially your videos (whatever they're called these days). Waiting for the next exciting instalment...by the way...love your work. 😁👍🏻🇦🇺
Thanks mate. So many jobs do go on hold due to parts, tools, weather etc, makes it hard to get momentum. Here is a vid on welding aluminium I did if you haven't seen it already th-cam.com/video/Mm2CTB_THcU/w-d-xo.html
“Hull Penetrations, Studs n Stag”
Hi Stu,
Credit to you mate.
Just a tip, all hull penetrations should have studs fitted, loctited, correct length for flange thickness being fitted to them, far stronger than bolts.
In my past life on sub refits, hull penetrations had the studs removed, flange face cleaned up, then scraped flat using marking blue and a face plate until all blue inside the studs and minimum halfway out to the studs.
New studs fitted using Loctite, the valve or pipe flange being fitted was also scraped flat with face plate.
1/64th Gasket, Stag gasket compound, backing plates fitted, flogged up and then all nuts were wire locked.
We were allowed 1.5 to 3 threads through the nut, jesus, lol.
STAG was always best, you could use a thicker gasket, just give the flange a good file from all angles with a flat file, break a file if its too long, but you gotta do it.
“FLOGG them nuts”
Cheers mate
Malc
Qld
Interesting about going with studs rather than bolts, I'll look into making the change. I'm happy to trust a submarine builder when it comes to through hull fittings! When you say file the flange from all angles are you referring to flat across the face from every direction?
I spend a lot of time with my hands on a needle gun while I was in the US Coast Guard. I can't say I ever used the words "satisfying" and "needle gun" in the same sentence. Love your videos, keep up the good work!
Hi, When you put the cutlass bearing back in, drill and tap a new grub screw hole on the side of the shaft to give you easy access next time it needs removing. Once the grub screw is in, fill the allen key hole with sicaflex or similar. Makes it really easy to get to next time it has to come out. Great videos by the way. I'm really envious that you've got the time and facilities in such a glorious location. Keep up the good work. :)
Great suggestions, thanks for that.
Hi Stu,
Yup, file the face flat, from 12oclock, 3oclock and all inbetween indexes, get a decent flat file and the file marks will show all the high spots on the hull flange.
Studs are so much stronger as they bottom out or go tight on the unthreaded neck of the stud, loctite them aswell.
If the flange pcd holes are a little bit out, put a plain nut on the stud to protect it.
Then “Persuade” it with a 3lb hammer, till the flange or valve slide on.
Cheers mate
Malc Qld
Thanks mate. Will do. I'll measure the threads of the bolts today so I can order the studs.
3:30 as a mechanic I hate finding different head sizes on the bolts. I always replace them with a uniform size.
For sure I will be replacing them all with standard sizes.
Once you have the tools, you may as well do repairs for a living.
It happened to me, although it was auto repairs in So Cal, it's no different.
Nothing can stop a gas torch, it will always be hot enough, getting past the old organic stuff is the trick.
Stu got me searching for the right old steel hull for me to bring back to life.
Good man! With the government buying back fishing licenses I would be suprised if there weren't a few around to be had at a good price.
Water outlet better over the side so you come see if water is actually flowing .
Also a plate strainer on outside with a partic trap on the inside above the sea cock . that's how the trawlers down south are done.
nice project done two myself said never again after the first but fell in to the trap again, too much work .
I have a strange feeling this won't be my last either...
Do yourself a favor mate and install one sea chest for all sea water intakes with one big valve to shut all water intake off when leaving the boat. Take all seawater for the boat from that sea chest.
Also, you have a great opportunity to go to go to a keel cooler and eliminate all the heat exchanger BS.
No self-respecting commercial steel boat would ever consider doing anything else.
If you have any questions at all, Iet me know. I build 4 boats like the one in the profile picture on the left in the 80's.
All still floating and working the Bering Sea to this day.
Otherwise, really nice job!
Keel cooling certainly does have it's appeal. I'll look into what is involved in doing the conversion.
I know nothing about boats, but seemingly have watched every episode to do with your Steel Trawler :) Loving it mate!
Both water inlet and water outlet must be below the water line if the water pump is above the waterline level outside the boat. This ensures that the pump does not back-drain empty when stopped. A dry vane water pump will not "self prime". If the pump is mounted low in the engine compartment, below the waterline this wont be an issue.
Note however that putting the water outlet above the waterline makes the pump work harder to "lift" the water up and out of the boat, resulting in less flow and less cooling. Inlet and outlet both below the waterline means the pump only has to overcome resistance losses, not gravity lift losses.
That makes sense. The section pump I want to remove (actually replace with electric) turns out to be the only pump putting water into the exhaust. I originally mistakenly believed that some of the raw water going through the heat exchanger was routed there. It seems it is quite common for the only water to cool the exhaust is the water that goes through the heat exchanger so I was thinking of moving to that system but it does involve discharging high. Currently looking at the exhaust and seeing water coming out is no evidence that the raw water pump for the motor is actually working which I'm not happy about. I presume this setup is because it originally had a dry stack through the top of the wheelhouse and it was the easiest way to convert it. I'm torn which way to go now.
The reason the water pump outlet is underwater is so that it won't louse its prime
Making progress Stu. Good to see, and I’m learning a lot about steel boats. But I’m also reminded why I prefer working on wooden boats. ; )
I'd agree, carpentry is why easier and cleaner lol
I had to take a cutlass bearing out one time using a hacksaw to cut it. What a horrible job that was. Good that you are using one shop for all your running gear.
I am surprised from earlier-outboard motors and all you had a great work shop with tons of mechanics tools. And those smarts and tool are great for a steel boat
You are an inspiration sir! I put my boat away for the season and noticed the steering is getting stiff, now I can't wait to do some early Spring work. Thanks for what you do and well wishes with your project.
Thanks mate and good luck with your steering!
Glad I'm retired and watching 'all' of this because I would be late for work every day otherwise, keep it up Stu, from Nowra.
Thanks mate, will do!
Utube vloggers constantly amaze me with their work ethic. Most of them have jobs/businesses to hold down, then they take the time to set up cameras and expose themselves to the ravages of haters and trolls while trying to share their experiences with a few interested souls. Then thay have to go home at the end of the day and edit their footage into a reasonably watchworthy stock, all so they can be judged on all of the above and they can't possibly be doing it for the money.
That pretty much sums it up. We must all be mad! ;)
Support these projects via patreon. A bit of cash flowing means less time on the 9-5 and more time making content for us to watch!
The oxy is your friend with this kind of work. It's much safer than a grinder (no kick back), and usually cheaper, cutting disk's add up, and sooooo much quicker. Watch a couple of vids for tips and you will be a pro in no time.
I'm slowly getting a bit better. It certainly is a great technique, and a great tool to keep on the boat given it doesn't need any power.
At this point the channel isn't complete without a cameo by an oyster every few videos ;)
“Oh and don’t worry I’ve totally put the fire out in the cabin now “. 😂😂😂😂 so funny cause I was wondering that when watching 😂😂
Nice Stu, The needle gun although loud (not on the video) make quick work on the removal. If your worried about the neighbors in the area just go talk to them and see if it bothers them. Let them know it's only for a period of time. Even find out what time works for them if it is a problem
Hey Tim. I have had a chat with them and unfortunately they both work from home all week. What are the chances! :(
Well that sucks. I guess you have other things to do. So weekends are ok?
Your gas mix is too rich, thats why you’re not cutting as easily as your should be. You want a tight blue cone. Great videos though. This is basically how I learn something new as well. Just find every way that doesn’t work until I’m left with a winner. Cheers.
I like how methodically you solve so many problems so quickly keep on cooking chief...I'm rootin for ya. Cap. San Diego Ca.
Thanks mate!
Loving this project. Be wary of overtightening the gland packings when reinstalling in new stuffing box. My days of maintaining gland packed pumps taught me that you need to have some water/ fluid to act as a lubricant so you don't burn out your packing. Rule of thumb for pumps was a drop of fluid being pumped every 10 seconds or so was enough to ensure your packing wasn't overtightened and stayed cool and lubricated. This ensures you don't wear out your prop shaft also. Hope this helps
You are coming along. Keep it up!
Bravo Stu...you are making great progress mate and will be awesome getting the re-built parts back ready for install. Keep up the great work and sing out if you need any help, Cheers :)
Thanks Mark. Feel free to drop by if you are ever on the road any week day! I'm really looking forward to getting the new bits back. There is something really satisfying about seeing things start to go back together after a long period of pulling it apart. :)
@@DangarMarine will do mate...may be out and about next week :)
Wow that sounder thing was a serious bit of engineering! would have done a submarine proud!
I wonder if he needs a special transducer because of all the steel?
this is a major project , kudo's to you ,will follow your project till its out on the water
I have been waiting on this video glad you got it ready. Your boat ought to be a lot lighter by the time you get all of that rust off.
Looking good Stu, that is going to be a sweet boat when your done with it!
One of my favorite channels.
Thanks mate. :)
You may want to look at a scraper blade from Milwaukee. It would be a lot quieter and take about a 1 1/2 wide path. It fits on a reciprocating saw.
Please make longer videos. Loving this project.
These are great , would love them to be longer . Show more even if it is mundane , you do a grand job explaining all that goes on btw very informative an cant wait to see it completed . Great work stu
Thanks Jason. I definitely have a lot more footage but making them longer would involve showing more of the boring stuff. I'll give it a try this week and see how it is received.
Another ace video you are coming along nicely now
The bolts that are different size heads..... the ones with 3 line marks radial from the centre are grade 8.8 high tensile construction bolts..... thats what you should be using, the smaller are grade 4.6,ok for non critical.... some flanges use 10.1 studs with nuts either end probably overkill for your application,,
Good luck mate and keep practicing with the oxy,,, and please put the guard back on the grinder
this guy putting some work on the boat love your videos my man
Today's a good day got a new video from my man stu
This should get the most thumbs up! 👍
Stu great v/blog I look forward to everyone, following you for the UK👍
Making great progress Stu. A lot of people here are cheering you on.
Thanks for my weekly fix Stu.... :)
Looking good mate 👍
Another informative video thanks Stuart, I look forward for the next video in the series to come out.
Nice work!!!
As usual, excellent video, good work Stu
I'm really enjoying your video's mate. This one has even made me late for work! I'd like you to know that I'm not a safety nut. Completely cool that you are doing some of the deck work with no shoes etc. I've seen lumberjacks in Asia working with axes at low level, shoeless, and they still have all their toes. Old guys too. I take chances myself. Sometimes there's no time so you forge ahead taking extra care. This is cool in my book. It's not like working on an old boat is a safe occupation under any circumstances. Please though mate, I've seen some horrible accidents involving angle grinders first hand. I had one myself where a disc picked up some chicken wire fence and wrecked my hand. The worst one's though are when that disc, spinning at up to 200mph at the edge, fractures and flies off. There have been many deaths. Please my friend fit a guard. I want to enjoy the rest of the refit. Please don't take this the wrong way, I'm loving what you are doing, and have no issues with the rest of your methods.
www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3137829/
unfortunately, most of us learn *after* we have an accident. We seldom understand the equation of risk verses consequence until the "accident".
I normally do have the guards on. The reason that one was off is that it was fitted with a shoe like a circular saw. I might make that one the dedicated flap disk grinder and put the cutting disk on the one that still has it's guard.
Ah! I totally get that now. Those shoe things are a bad idea if you ask me. I bought a grinder the other day that had one, and the first thing I did was cut it off. Using the same grinder without a guard as it was the only one I had. See, I'm just as bad :) They are too restricting and in the real world people just end up taking them off as you did. Thanks for the reply Stu. Keep up the good work!
Yes, I was going to mention the wire wheel on the dye grinder as well - where's the gloves? We want to see Stu with both hands working...
But, whatever, keep up the good work. Can't wait till the next episode!
Love watching your progress, great videos as well. Keep it up!
Thanks mate!
Your a bloody legend Dangar
That is a big, big job!
Your a movie star mate!
Great work. Keep it up!
B. Bust.
O. Out.
A. Another.
T. Thousand.
Also the exhaust manifolds I dealt with on Detroit's the water going through the manifold was part of the closed system . It didn't eject out the wet exhaust. Maybe I missed it haven't really had a good look at the engine but most raw water pumps mount on where the plate for the camshaft or balance shaft is . If you switch to dry exhaust it is much easier. Like someone said just get a big truck muffler and run it up through the deck.
Yes, that was my misunderstanding. The section pump I want to remove (actually replace with electric) turns out to be the only pump putting water into the exhaust. I originally mistakenly believed that some of the raw water going through the heat exchanger was routed there. It seems it is quite common for the only water to cool the exhaust is the water that goes through the heat exchanger so I was thinking of moving to that system but it does involve discharging high. Currently looking at the exhaust and seeing water coming out is no evidence that the raw water pump for the motor is actually working which I'm not happy about. I presume this setup is because it originally had a dry stack through the top of the wheelhouse and it was the easiest way to convert it. I'm torn which way to go now.
@@DangarMarine run your exhaust pipe under the deck past the rear of the cabin a couple of inches, 90 degree up through the deck . From the deck come up with a 2 foot piecs of pipe . On top of that Get a 3 or or 4 foot long muffler from an 18 wheel truck . Then put a stack on top of that about 2 or 3 feet above your cabin. Put a 90 degree elbow on top then say 6 inch piece of pipe with the end cut on a 45 to keep rain out . Weld a couple of hangers from cabin to exhaust pipe maybe one above and below muffler. Exhaust wrap entire length of pipe under the deck don't worry about above . It's louder yes but when you get it high like that it's not too bad. It's just so much simpler and way more durable in my opinion . And the keel cooler deal I mentioned in another post for this video is the way to go. No maintenance really to speak of. How I wish I was there. By the way I have an old mercury outboard I need help with here in the states . Can't wait till you come here . Lol
Oy that needle gun brought back memories... lol
I so very badly wish I could be there to assist in surface cleaning. Your videos are so habit-forming, I have withdrawals during the time I must wait for your next video. What torture! hahaha. Seriously, you are just so awesome. Cut everything free from the hull! You will really appreciate having a new clean installation of pipes and things that now are a huge mess. I can't wait to see how you do all this rework in the engine area. Now, for the pain of waiting for your next video. If I had the money, I would take a trip down under and give you every moment of my time to help. I also love painting! One can dream, can't he?
Appreciate the thought mate. Going to try to keep two two videos each week from now on. :)
zetacon4 pretty sure everyone on this channel is over 40....therefore were awesome.
@@jesteronetime, ok, two things:
1. Everyone, regardless of age or gender, deserves to be shown genuine appreciation. ( I consider your comment a bit juvenile.)
2. It is always a great idea to proof-read your comment and edit it if needed: (therefore were awesome) should be "we're" contraction of we are.
To avoid annoying people I did make a pretty crude but effective noise wall from old foam mattresses wired to an old metal gazebo frame. It was a bit rough looking but muffled the noise to acceptable levels. Best thing is it cost nothing other than a bit of labour on my part.
my fave dose of show
Loving the progress..
You could look at the plasma cutter as it is easier to use and all you need is power 240 volts and air compressor which you have. It can cut steel Brass alum copper S/S. I have use these machine for years and have had good results. The only down size is the tips and electrodes but are easy to replace as they are consumables.
Though will he have access to 15a? I reckon any heavy cutter/welder will be at least 15a.
I've just received a set of new tips for my plasma cutter so I'll get it up and running again soon.
@@DangarMarine Check to see if they make a gouging tip and cup for it, instead of a regular drag shield setup.
Plus one for plasma cutters. An absolutely life changing tool
Fastest boat rebuild on TH-cam by far. Well done.
Thanks mate. Hoping to launch in four more weeks. The pressure is on!
@@DangarMarine you can do it !!!
Love it when a project comes together😎😎😎
After removing everything from the engine power washing sandblasting and it's clean I Will paint it in white epoxy paint all my engine rooms I've painted in white always kept clean easy to work on... Great video I keep wanting more can't wait for the next one
I'm looking forward to painting the engine room. :)
If it hasn't been mentioned and you haven't seen it yet, there's a channel called SV seeker, fellows building a large chinese junk sailing research vessel in steel. Not that far back there's a 53 minute video titled, "Before painting steel, listen to a corrosion professional". We'll worth a watch. Keep up the good work, it'll be worth it.......👍
Yes, that was a good video, watched it a few weeks ago.
Stilsons are good, but I reckon a Chain Wrench gives more even grip. I picked 1 up 2nd hand for $20, and I abuse the crap out of it. 3 foot pipe and stand on it sometimes.
Thanks for sharing.
Hi, it's worth getting on a course to learn how to use the cutting torch and welding, very useful skills for what you are doing. Many thanks for the videos.
Looks like a lot of fun, wish I was there to help.
Me too!
After the niddel gun I was surprised you had a boat left, instead of a pile of rust on a tarp. Lol
Keep at it mate.... Love these vids
That transducer box was an amazing bit of engineering... Provided it was on a North Sea Icebreaker! Always wished they designed a needle scaler with a muffled exhaust. They seem to want it aimed at the work piece, which just reflects the sound back.
You can always try setting up a sound barrier using acoustical panels made of foam. I'd make sure they're flame resistant in case any sparks hit them. Any reduction in decibel level is a bonus.
There are some hanging around the yard I'm thinking of asking the owner if I can borrow for a while.
Man I haven’t been waiting in a show episode by episode in years. Always stoked to see your new video on this project pop into my feed.
Keep it up man! Can’t wait to see this finished
Thanks mate, glad you've been enjoying the vids. :)
New to this channel love the videos 😍. nice work and good luck.
If you want to gas cut the centre of the plate use a centre punch to mark the plate. Heat the centre punch and when the edge of the centre punch turns red press the cutting touch trigger. This is the way I have been do it for years.
Cool, thanks for your tip. I have a lot to learn about oxy cutting but I can see it being a really great skill to have in the end.
I used to be a welder but finished that part of my career back in the '80s. Another tip regarding centre-punching an old welder taught me (he'd have to be 110 by now) was that to make it easy to follow a line while cutting, punch along the line every 5mm then run your engineers chalk along it again.
G’day Stu good to see you again that’s heavy going on the hull but your getting there. That was a hell of a big transducer covering it will look so much better with a modern one on it , those valves I can’t really see the point of them anyway looking forward to your next video regards John
Hey John, yes, the hull will look much better with that upgraded. The valves are there so the water can be shut off if a leak occurs.
good vid mate the union on the sea chest, give it a good soak with diesel and hit it from both sides with 2 hammers atr the same time, usualy works :)
Love your vids
Another great vid
Love, Love, Love it.
Looking good. Love tat needle gun.