That Mysterious Canister is almost certainly a Racor fuel seperator being used as a Catch-Can for the AIRBOX DRAIN. 2-Stroke Detroits have Drains coming off the Firedeck/airbox inside the block, to drain off the oil splashed out of the cylinder liner ports. On a Motor Vehicle, they are allowed to just drip down on the ground, except in California. You Check the Fill Level in the Catch-Can every few days, and Drain it into a small can or bottle, and just Pour It Back Into the Engine. Or, if you do Oil Analysis, very EASY to get your Samples...Its' Purpose is to keep oil out of your Bilges. Hey, while you have the engine out, Check the Seals on the Emergency Shut-Off Trapdoor in the top of the Blower, or maybe the air intake box. It looks like a Trapdoor that can fall down over the Blower opening and Shut Off Air from coming in. This is a VERY IMPORTANT Safety Piece on ALL 2-stroke Detroits, its to prevent or stop an Engine Runaway. The seal around the edge of the door MUST be in Good Condition, Air-Tight, for it to Work. Also Check the metal Mating surface, make sure it is Clean and Flat, for a Good Seal. I didn't see it in the vid, check and make sure some Dumb-ass has not Removed it. This is the ONLY WAY to shut down a Runaway Two-Stroke Detroit! If you can't put a Load on the engine big enough to Stall It, the ONLY Other way to shut it down is to Shut Off it's AIR. If it runs away, it WILL Suck the oil out of the oilpan, and Run on THAT til it Blows.
I don't know anything about boats, but before getting rid of that necked-down water pipe, you might want to see what size hoses are readily available. I used to run into this working on IH gas engines - they used huge radiator hoses that didn't cross-reference with any other manufacturer. A decade after they stopped making those engines, getting a simple radiator hose meant a 3-week waiting period.
Your work ethic and diagnostic approach are second to NONE. Excellent work, excellent video production and highly educational narrative. No wonder so many viewers are riveted!
I was amazed when I saw you use the camera to "see"how things were when you took it apart. I use that method on all new projects. The work you are doing on the 4-71 is bringing back some old memories of the 6-71's I once worked on. These engines had over speed trips that shut the engine down if it got out of hand. They were generator sets.
I'm only really interested in sailboats, but I accidentally tripped across your videos and now watch them with breakfast. There's something comfy about a dry sarcastic Aussie fixing boats.
A man with a big heart and the power to tackle anything. Murphy law “if it is going to drop or fall it will to the most difficult place” and it did. Once the engine is out you can get it back....keep it up your doing good. Your also showing the rest of us the hiccups and many of work rounds that are needed to move any job forward. It never goes as the book says....you show the truth.....amacf
Having worked on many 71 series Detroit's I think you did a pretty good job with it. The fittings on the water inlet are for zinks to protect the engine from corrosion inside. Someone has changed the alternator to a 12 volt one. I would recommend that you go back to a 24 system as it will give you better battery reserves and also do the same with the started as it will start the motor much easier. The external pump that you had a belt just slipping on is probably a wash-down system with that valve that was on there. I would re-do that system as it will help with cleaning the boat and also protect the boat from other issues. The step-down on the intake is not supposed to be there and you need to fix that. The intake silencer with its four bolts should be replaced along with the air screen that was plugged up. The bolt that came out of the exhaust needs to be replaced and a good measure would be to replace all of those studs. The fuel return should be teed and hoses go to each of the tanks to provide better return and reduce the possibility of flooding one tank. Good job overall and smart taking pictures of the electrical and I would mark all wires when I re-installed everything. Almost forgot to suggest that you use a double valve system on all of your raw or sea water systems so that you can remove the system for repair while in the water if necessary. It makes working on the system much easier and allows you to insert things like the sea water filter where you can get at it.
I run my own business, but even still I cannot just simply do do whatever I want whenever I want, other people will think I'm being lazy. So today I've hidden in my room, locked the door, and pretended I'm writing letters when In fact I'm watching you take an engine out of a boat........Love it
When I was in the Army I learned a trick to see things that are in tight spaces. We used the camera on our cell phones to take pictures or videos to see things in hard to reach places like your mystery belt.
Excellent video Stu! I felt for you getting those bolts undone - I have several times told people myself that half of working on engines is putting yourself in uncomfortable positions while undoing intake manifold bolts 1/16th of a turn at a time with coolant dripping on your face. But the reward in the end is addictive!
Super work on your videos.One strategy I use when taking stuff apart like this is to get a big pack of small multiple color zip ties and just tag both sides of whatever I'm taking apart with the same color ties.Pretty durable and they will hold up thru pretty rough service like cleaning or getting moved around.Stay after it man.
I have enjoyed your videos for about a month now, you're not afraid to work and have a good set of skills. I like your desire to tackle jobs that you have not done before and learn as you go , best wishes to you and keep up your great work !
I thought that looked interesting, would actually like to see some more of it! And offcours the video is great As always to, Dangar Marine is my favorite YT channel.👍
Also putting the round head bolts in a good place to get lost. I hate them too. Only good place to use them is where there is a clearance issues or by wiring/plumbing
Im getting too old for this;) says every mechanic at some stage.plus that 'looked" easier than a car clutch bolt :) but what would i know ;) Im finding the vids fasinating i can see me watching all yours:)
Hello from Detroit Stu. Pulling the engine was a good call...gonna make your life a lot easier. She's a little dirty and tired, but she'll be a beast for towing. The hull really has some nice lines, gonna look great when you get her painted. Keep plugging along bud. Thanks for posting
Some people call it a lube finer and can also be used on fuel . It's a series of stacked plates so when you rotate the T- handle at the top it causes one set of plates to mesh with the other set thus cleaning filter . What ever your cleaning it is the first step and then goes through the other filter .. Just take the canister apart , clean the crud out wash with clean fuel or var sole and it's good to go . When in use rotate T-handle every day .
Since you have problems with the through hull valves and there's no strainer plus you're already welding. I'd recommend looking into doing whats called a sea chest. It's basically one through hull that you can hook multiple fittings too. They are much safer, easier to service in or out of the water etc and its cheap to make.
Where you found the shellfish and refer to the cavitation (the engine intake for cooling water), it may be in your interest to install a screen filter w/canister. It will allow to block anything drawn in from traveling further toward the engine.
As an ex trawlerman I am really enjoying your progress with this little vessel, I would defo fit deplex fuel filters mate they can save your life in bad weather if you have to do a quick change over, if you don't need a deck wash then just pull that system out, it would give you better access in that tiny engine room. Loving the bottle of rum in the wheelhouse top man, keep up the fantastic work.
Thanks mate. I've been enjoying working on this project. I definitely agree about pulling out everything I don't intend to use when space is at such a premium.
When the airbox was in the way and you couldn't see the wiring beneath, try this: use your handy phone as an extension eyeball. Reach on down and trigger shots or a video, or sometimes using it on selfie mode when you can see the screen from above. Works really well and gets into areas your head won't ever!
Hello Stu, Get some of those little blue, red, yellow coloured cable ties & put one around your cable & matching colour one around the post it came off. One of those cheap telescopic magnetic pick-up tools can come in handy to retrieve bolts & spanners. P.S your making some good progress, I'm enjoying the series.
One of the best time savers for a job like that is about 6-8” of telephone cable which has thousand of different color bundles then you start with white on terminal and white on wire then blue and blue and so on and so on Great to keep in the tool box Find someone who works for the phone co and get a foot of it cut it in half youll be set for a life time
I can imagine you may feel at times "should I have taken on this project on" but at the end of the day I reckon you've got a great little boat there that I know you'll get a lot a pleasure with.
I was worried when in your videos I didn't see a beer can anywhere. Jerry got you covered. Beware of one thing turning into another . You have quite a few cans of worms opened now . Doing a fantastic job so far .
It is a tough call knowing when to stop. Everything you touch is 30 years old so could always do with some TLC. I guess keeping an eye on the priority jobs in the only way to avoid spending too much time on the others.
A good backup emergency stop is to plumb a co2 fire extinguisher into the inlet manifold in case the emergency shut down flap is corroded and allows air in. We used to fit them to older motors just in case they ran away and started pulling oil past the rings. It’s a bit bush mechanic but there isn’t far to runaway on a 30” boat if the Jimmy has bolted 😎 You can extend the hose easily and operate it from the wheelhouse.
Great points about documenting where things go before disassembly. 👍 Haven't found an oyster in my motor before. I was hoping a pearl would roll out for you. 😊 We have a monstrous forklift here at my job that was beautiful when it plucked my sterndrive V8 motor/trans out of my cruiser...twice. Heavy lifting equipment with a healthy motor and hydraulics with good seals is a beautiful thing indeed.
Thank you for another great video! Watching you work on your boat makes me wish we had warm/nice weather here in Upstate New York (USA) all year so I can work on my current boat restore project. But, due to the frigid cold and snow......guess I'll have to wait a few more months. See ya in the next one.
You might consider installing a keel cooler and dry exhaust/muffler so you can eliminate a raw water pump. One less thing to worry about. Cool little boat you have there.
Good work on getting the engine out! Those cable tie mounts one trick i do with any boats / cars / switchboards i use them on is to cut the sticky backing pad off the back and araldite them it works amazing and stay there forever u just need to tape them in place until araldite sets. I would almost be tempted to rewire using tinned wire could even use numbered control wire and build yourself a wiring schedule to keep on board. Awesome work mate wish i had of seen your channel before i pulled my 90s model 225evinrude off my boat and rebuild the whole boat im sure i could have got it started for a few fishing trips!
Pulling the engine out is an excellent choice. Appears to be a 4-71 Jimmy diesel, a very old and reliable design. Many parts available throughout the world--Mikey
For those large positive wires--one was black--advise some brake cleaning solvent to get the oil off and mark the black one with some red electrical tape or a piece of red shrink tube. Additionally put a bit of masking tape on all wires marking with your Sharpey felt pen as to their location at each end. In the USA we mark negative mains with yellow. You cannot mark TOO much. On that bilge pump discharge--plumb it up and across under the deck then up into the combing with an upside-down "J" to an overboard thru-hull but still above the waterline-------Mikey
Yes, will definitely put some heat shrink on those wires to mark them better. I'll also look into something better with the overboard discharge along the lines that you suggest.
I've got one for my kaercher that works great but I would recommend a petrol machine for the convenience. ebay for the generic grit attachment. I keep eyeing off Stu's needle scaler, are they worth it? I use a welding chip hammer.
Hi Andrew, The water blaster best for grit blast is up to 3000psi. The needle gun is best used first to remove the deep rust and follow up with the the grit. This gives you as near to Paint spec surface prep as possible.
I have to catch up 4 years of videos lol I haven’t been watching mate. Unfortunately I’ve had so many different hobbies since then and lost interest in boats and jetski’s etc..... I recently got back into the hobby and bought a jetski. I’m now in the market for a good used cheap reliable boat!! Watching your videos again is brining back all the passion for this beautiful hobby!! Good to see your still going strong. Hope to see ya on the water mate, I’ll throw ya some beers 😂👌
718 comment wow Stu awesome!! Just on that alternator upgrade it to the largest Amp one you can afford 140-200amp that way you can keep your house batteries charged up fully when steaming around and less solar panels down the track.
Awesome progress Stu! It sounded like it was raining for parts of the video? Thats dedication! Great job keep up the great work and thank you for sharing so much of the process :)
Thanks for posting! Even though I will never do this It’s so cool to see how you think about things and brainstorm! I always learn things from your videos!
When you take and engine out when you take bolts and screws out put them in plastic bags and write where the came from on the bag. For each item removed use a nother bag. And make sure you fill oil filter and fuel filter before reinstalling. Replace the old starter with a gear reduction one takes way less voltage to start it. Tag the wires are the smarts thing to do. Install a engine oil cooler while you have it out with electric fan wire to the engine fan sensor to turn it off and on. Will increases engine life greatly.
hi stu i know it must be costing you a lot for all the things that need doing but slowly slowly wins the race she is goin to look the bees knees when you finished there are a lot of people watching and we are all cheering you on as much as you dont think the people might not want to watch this bit well let me tell you we do we are all routing for you all the best stu
The first mentioned tall filter is either a "by pass" oil or fuel filter. The GM "jimmy" engines have a habit of blowing the tip off injectors if they get water, and sooner or later will do so if the big filter is removed. It does a great job of removing water from diesel. Some of them took a roll of paper towels. The by pass oil filter saves a fortune in oil and oil filters, especially if synthetic oil was used. The oil stays clear, as the by pass filter removes the particals of carbon. Gm's were the best engines ever built. Problem is, they used too much fuel because they are two cycle. You could get parts from the closest bar room.
The large filter is a Racor fuel filter as mentioned by others. It needs to be plumbed into the fuel supply hose . They are used as a fuel/water separator. It looks like someone has connected it to the air box drain as a catch can to stop the oil in the bilge. If that’s the case it would need to be vented to let the air box breathe otherwise oil will build up in the air box and possibly cause the engine to run away on the oil.
Trying to jack the bearing out of the housing scared the piss out of me, I knew the boat was gonna lift and when it did, I honestly felt fear that a friend was gonna get hurt. Don't do that yo- we like you being happy, healthy, and .. well, alive.
Whenever I pull an engine or transmission from a car, I have a roll of blue masking tape on hand so I can tag each wire with a name, or if I don't know what it's for, with a number and then tag the mounting point with the same number. (The tape is also handy for covering the ends of hoses or electrical plugs to keep dirt out.)
As cramped as that engine closet is, I'd give some serious consideration to cutting a larger opening around your existing box. Weld a strip around it, drill holes every 2 to 3 inches, make a gasket and bolt it down. You'll be able to use the existing opening for normal maintenance but, if you have to get to something further down, you can unbolt the whole assembly to gain access without pulling the engine.
Interesting project. Never worked on a 4-71. I did work on 2-71's, 6-71's and 6-110's. I know a people poked fun at them, but if you took care of them the ran forever.
That mystery canister is a Raccor fuel/water separator. Water is heavier than diesel, so it falls to the bottom. The T handle spins off and there is a 10 micron fuel filter in there. Replace it and also replace the O ring on the lid. You can clean the bowl out with fresh diesel. Why they are using it as a catch can, I don't really know. Probably just what was available for a crank case vent. Detroits are notorious leakers, due to the positive crank case pressure. You can buy a kit that creates negative CC pressure. Also, clean and replace the gaskets on the inspection plates.
@@DangarMarine I have a lot of knowledge about Detroit 6-71s and 4-71s are similar. Had a pair of 6-71s i. A 41 foot Viking for years. If you have questions, hit me up. Happy to help!
*Bilge pump outlet* -- You could just do away with the hose on deck and leave the rest as-is. I've seen it on other boats where the dewatering pumps eject onto the deck. Like I said, plenty of negatives, but there's at least a couple of positives. You get intimately familiar with the normal amount of water and it is one less hole in the hull-proper.
That canister is a Raccor brand fuel water separator housing there is a filter inside of that canister. That removes any water from the diesel fuel before the fuel goes to the secondary fuel filter.
Actually I think it's a oil primer. If that's a pump handle on the top it would be to pre-oil the engine before starting. Or it could be one of those extra parts you don't need.
I agree its a Racor (note one 'c'), you can read the brand off it and it has that featured tap wrench thing on top. oddly not a clear bowl or barrel though.
That Mysterious Canister is almost certainly a Racor fuel seperator being used as a Catch-Can for the AIRBOX DRAIN. 2-Stroke Detroits have Drains coming off the Firedeck/airbox inside the block, to drain off the oil splashed out of the cylinder liner ports. On a Motor Vehicle, they are allowed to just drip down on the ground, except in California. You Check the Fill Level in the Catch-Can every few days, and Drain it into a small can or bottle, and just Pour It Back Into the Engine. Or, if you do Oil Analysis, very EASY to get your Samples...Its' Purpose is to keep oil out of your Bilges. Hey, while you have the engine out, Check the Seals on the Emergency Shut-Off Trapdoor in the top of the Blower, or maybe the air intake box. It looks like a Trapdoor that can fall down over the Blower opening and Shut Off Air from coming in. This is a VERY IMPORTANT Safety Piece on ALL 2-stroke Detroits, its to prevent or stop an Engine Runaway. The seal around the edge of the door MUST be in Good Condition, Air-Tight, for it to Work. Also Check the metal Mating surface, make sure it is Clean and Flat, for a Good Seal. I didn't see it in the vid, check and make sure some Dumb-ass has not Removed it. This is the ONLY WAY to shut down a Runaway Two-Stroke Detroit! If you can't put a Load on the engine big enough to Stall It, the ONLY Other way to shut it down is to Shut Off it's AIR. If it runs away, it WILL Suck the oil out of the oilpan, and Run on THAT til it Blows.
@Jim I was going to mention this but noticed that you did before I posted...good show mate!
What he said...
Jim Nickels? Sounds suspicious-but...... EMD same as Detroit and I concur sir... air box drain ...
Oh, Lord, Not ANOTHER ONE! LOL Well, at least YOU spell your Name Right.....@@JimNichols
Oh shit now I'm looking up runaway diesel videos. I never thought of not being able to shut one down
I don't know anything about boats, but before getting rid of that necked-down water pipe, you might want to see what size hoses are readily available. I used to run into this working on IH gas engines - they used huge radiator hoses that didn't cross-reference with any other manufacturer. A decade after they stopped making those engines, getting a simple radiator hose meant a 3-week waiting period.
Good point about parts. I'd hate to find out at the last minute given its $200 a week to be on site.
Your work ethic and diagnostic approach are second to NONE. Excellent work, excellent video production and highly educational narrative. No wonder so many viewers are riveted!
Thanks mate. Glad you liked it. :)
I was amazed when I saw you use the camera to "see"how things were when you took it apart. I use that method on all new projects. The work you are doing on the 4-71 is bringing back some old memories of the 6-71's I once worked on. These engines had over speed trips that shut the engine down if it got out of hand. They were generator sets.
Hey Richard, yep, plenty of these engines were used as generators. Very reliable for that purpose.
I'm only really interested in sailboats, but I accidentally tripped across your videos and now watch them with breakfast. There's something comfy about a dry sarcastic Aussie fixing boats.
I have no intention of ever owning a boat but I could watch you all day. You should be on TV!!
A man with a big heart and the power to tackle anything. Murphy law “if it is going to drop or fall it will to the most difficult place” and it did. Once the engine is out you can get it back....keep it up your doing good. Your also showing the rest of us the hiccups and many of work rounds that are needed to move any job forward. It never goes as the book says....you show the truth.....amacf
Thanks mate! :)
Finally up to date (just watched everything back to back from your first video).After 45 years at sea on "steel" boats you are doing a sterling job.
Thanks mate. I really feel like I'm in the swing of this job now. I bet you learnt more than a thing or two in those 45 years. :)
Having worked on many 71 series Detroit's I think you did a pretty good job with it. The fittings on the water inlet are for zinks to protect the engine from corrosion inside. Someone has changed the alternator to a 12 volt one. I would recommend that you go back to a 24 system as it will give you better battery reserves and also do the same with the started as it will start the motor much easier. The external pump that you had a belt just slipping on is probably a wash-down system with that valve that was on there. I would re-do that system as it will help with cleaning the boat and also protect the boat from other issues. The step-down on the intake is not supposed to be there and you need to fix that. The intake silencer with its four bolts should be replaced along with the air screen that was plugged up. The bolt that came out of the exhaust needs to be replaced and a good measure would be to replace all of those studs. The fuel return should be teed and hoses go to each of the tanks to provide better return and reduce the possibility of flooding one tank.
Good job overall and smart taking pictures of the electrical and I would mark all wires when I re-installed everything. Almost forgot to suggest that you use a double valve system on all of your raw or sea water systems so that you can remove the system for repair while in the water if necessary. It makes working on the system much easier and allows you to insert things like the sea water filter where you can get at it.
I like to watch people work and you add the element of fun. There is a lot you can do to sort out the engine room and improve access.
I'm not into boats but glad I found this rebuild, seen the last few and they where good. Thanks for the Upload.
I run my own business, but even still I cannot just simply do do whatever I want whenever I want, other people will think I'm being lazy. So today I've hidden in my room, locked the door, and pretended I'm writing letters when In fact I'm watching you take an engine out of a boat........Love it
LOL. Nice bit of covert TH-cam action. ;)
When I was in the Army I learned a trick to see things that are in tight spaces. We used the camera on our cell phones to take pictures or videos to see things in hard to reach places like your mystery belt.
Excellent video Stu! I felt for you getting those bolts undone - I have several times told people myself that half of working on engines is putting yourself in uncomfortable positions while undoing intake manifold bolts 1/16th of a turn at a time with coolant dripping on your face. But the reward in the end is addictive!
I'm glad I was above the dripping coolant! :)
Super work on your videos.One strategy I use when taking stuff apart like this is to get a big pack of small multiple color zip ties and just tag both sides of whatever I'm taking apart with the same color ties.Pretty durable and they will hold up thru pretty rough service like cleaning or getting moved around.Stay after it man.
pulled 2 8v71 out of a 53ft Hatteras. Made rail road tracks to stern. Pulled off with boom truck.
6000 lbs. Nice work Thanks.
The 8v71s certainly are big motors!
Thanks for taking us along Stu. I was getting flashbacks to when I was mechanic watching this vid. Your making great progress
I have enjoyed your videos for about a month now, you're not afraid to work and have a good set of skills. I like your desire to tackle jobs that you have not done before and learn as you go , best wishes to you and keep up your great work !
Thanks mate, glad you've been enjoying the vids. :)
That crane was quite the contraption! I’m loving this series. All the best.
Looked like an old Fowler crane.
The local nickname for them is a wobbly haha
I thought that looked interesting, would actually like to see some more of it!
And offcours the video is great As always to, Dangar Marine is my favorite YT channel.👍
"Oh look, it's an Oyster!?" and "I am definitely getting too old for this." 8 minutes in and 2 awesome quotes! Keep up the great work!
"I'll put these somewhere stupid so I make that I lose them."
Also putting the round head bolts in a good place to get lost. I hate them too. Only good place to use them is where there is a clearance issues or by wiring/plumbing
On a previous one. "Australia rhymes with failure". This is better than many TV programmes.
Im getting too old for this;) says every mechanic at some stage.plus that 'looked" easier than a car clutch bolt :) but what would i know ;)
Im finding the vids fasinating i can see me watching all yours:)
Hello from Detroit Stu. Pulling the engine was a good call...gonna make your life a lot easier. She's a little dirty and tired, but she'll be a beast for towing. The hull really has some nice lines, gonna look great when you get her painted. Keep plugging along bud. Thanks for posting
Thanks mate. I'm enjoying the job so far but still looking forward to getting it finished and back in the water.
Another great instalment thanks Stu. And the Landy still adding a touch of class on the hardstand....
This is the best way to rebuild a boat. Gut it, clean it, fix it and reinstall everything. Thumbs up.
It really is, makes things so much better once the project is done
Yeah, it would be impossible to do this properlly with the motor in place.
a pack of different coloured insulation tape or zip ties are awesome to keep track of where things go and what connects to what, great stuff Stu.
That was a big job, but now you're really getting to know the boat, and that will pay big rewards in the future. Also, Rob is the man.
He is. :)
Stu ,that job has got to be a lot more work than you anticipated!!!! Holy shit!
In some ways, but I also knew it was going to take a bit once I saw it out of the water. Oh well, it will be fun. :)
Some people call it a lube finer and can also be used on fuel . It's a series of stacked plates so when you rotate the T- handle at the top it causes one set of plates to mesh with the other set thus cleaning filter . What ever your cleaning it is the first step and then goes through the other filter .. Just take the canister apart , clean the crud out wash with clean fuel or var sole and it's good to go . When in use rotate T-handle every day .
All that hard prep work...and it looks like the engine came out easy. That was a good plan! Well done...
I wonder what the lines we're that was dragging along with the engine?
Since you have problems with the through hull valves and there's no strainer plus you're already welding. I'd recommend looking into doing whats called a sea chest. It's basically one through hull that you can hook multiple fittings too. They are much safer, easier to service in or out of the water etc and its cheap to make.
Will do a map of what is there next week and start to hatch a plan.
awesome work there, we had a 6-71 Detroit diesel back in the middle 1960's lots of power …
Where you found the shellfish and refer to the cavitation (the engine intake for cooling water), it may be in your interest to install a screen filter w/canister. It will allow to block anything drawn in from traveling further toward the engine.
Yep, definitely going to install a strainer on the water intake.
Really loving these videos, my son and I enjoy watching, about time you employed a full production team. -My dad
Glad you are enjoying the videos. :)
That project just scares me.Good for you and your perseverance, skills, patience.
One step at a time is all it takes. :)
As an ex trawlerman I am really enjoying your progress with this little vessel, I would defo fit deplex fuel filters mate they can save your life in bad weather if you have to do a quick change over, if you don't need a deck wash then just pull that system out, it would give you better access in that tiny engine room. Loving the bottle of rum in the wheelhouse top man, keep up the fantastic work.
Thanks mate. I've been enjoying working on this project. I definitely agree about pulling out everything I don't intend to use when space is at such a premium.
Woohoo! 24 minutes of Dangar Stu goodness!
Pretty out of control huh!
Mad max called he wants his crane back
Good job! Reminds me why I gave up on inboard engines. Working on an outboard is so much easier to get around it.
Of all the boat build/makeover projects on here yours looks like the one that will require the most patients by the time you are done.
One step at a time and it will get there.
When the airbox was in the way and you couldn't see the wiring beneath, try this: use your handy phone as an extension eyeball. Reach on down and trigger shots or a video, or sometimes using it on selfie mode when you can see the screen from above. Works really well and gets into areas your head won't ever!
You are brave, I really admire the patience and the documentation of the whole process
Hello Stu, Get some of those little blue, red, yellow coloured cable ties & put one around your cable & matching colour one around the post it came off. One of those cheap telescopic magnetic pick-up tools can come in handy to retrieve bolts & spanners. P.S your making some good progress, I'm enjoying the series.
Yes, a system of matching colours is a great way to go to aid reassembly.
One of the best time savers for a job like that is about 6-8” of telephone cable which has thousand of different color bundles then you start with white on terminal and white on wire then blue and blue and so on and so on
Great to keep in the tool box
Find someone who works for the phone co and get a foot of it cut it in half youll be set for a life time
We use that where I work. For marking hoses and wiring on heavy equipment. Works great.
Nice tip!
I can imagine you may feel at times "should I have taken on this project on" but at the end of the day I reckon you've got a great little boat there that I know you'll get a lot a pleasure with.
So far I'm enjoying it. I figure by the time I am over it it will be close enough to feel the end is in sight.
I was worried when in your videos I didn't see a beer can anywhere. Jerry got you covered. Beware of one thing turning into another . You have quite a few cans of worms opened now . Doing a fantastic job so far .
It is a tough call knowing when to stop. Everything you touch is 30 years old so could always do with some TLC. I guess keeping an eye on the priority jobs in the only way to avoid spending too much time on the others.
The Boats coming along well, look forward to next weeks video. Thumbs up from NY👍👍👍
Thanks mate!
A good backup emergency stop is to plumb a co2 fire extinguisher into the inlet manifold in case the emergency shut down flap is corroded and allows air in.
We used to fit them to older motors just in case they ran away and started pulling oil past the rings.
It’s a bit bush mechanic but there isn’t far to runaway on a 30” boat if the Jimmy has bolted 😎
You can extend the hose easily and operate it from the wheelhouse.
Nice idea!
Great points about documenting where things go before disassembly. 👍 Haven't found an oyster in my motor before. I was hoping a pearl would roll out for you. 😊
We have a monstrous forklift here at my job that was beautiful when it plucked my sterndrive V8 motor/trans out of my cruiser...twice. Heavy lifting equipment with a healthy motor and hydraulics with good seals is a beautiful thing indeed.
Thank you for another great video! Watching you work on your boat makes me wish we had warm/nice weather here in Upstate New York (USA) all year so I can work on my current boat restore project. But, due to the frigid cold and snow......guess I'll have to wait a few more months. See ya in the next one.
Yes, we are lucky that even winter is warm enough to work and boat in.
canister def a racor, and that dodgy water pump running to a manifold is most likey a mechanical bilge system.. love this channel!!!!!!!!!
You might consider installing a keel cooler and dry exhaust/muffler so you can eliminate a raw water pump. One less thing to worry about. Cool little boat you have there.
Yeah, I'm, kinda wishing it hadn't been converted. The wet exhaust takes up most of the room on that port side.
That engine is so happy you came along lol
It hasn't ever seen "true love" until it met Stu!
Len e idk if this is a joke or not, but I sure hope it is
I think Stu was trying to get it ready for his friend to pull out
LOL, I hope it is. :)
That engine will give you many more hours of cruising pleasure...
this work pays off,all sort of problems show them selves and get sorted out
The Green Machine is going to feel neglected. Another banger of a video.
I love that crane. That looks like it would be great for setting concrete blocks.
Amazing that so many of the engine's serviceable parts couldn't be reached without dismantling almost everything. Hope you got the ziplocs!
Good work on getting the engine out!
Those cable tie mounts one trick i do with any boats / cars / switchboards i use them on is to cut the sticky backing pad off the back and araldite them it works amazing and stay there forever u just need to tape them in place until araldite sets.
I would almost be tempted to rewire using tinned wire could even use numbered control wire and build yourself a wiring schedule to keep on board.
Awesome work mate wish i had of seen your channel before i pulled my 90s model 225evinrude off my boat and rebuild the whole boat im sure i could have got it started for a few fishing trips!
Yep, think I will be re-doing a lot of the wiring. I'll also be making a manual that maps it all out so I don't forget in the future.
Awesome Stu, look forward to the next episode, great progress.
Great work!!! I like to see every corner of the engine, good plane changes!!!
Pulling the engine out is an excellent choice. Appears to be a 4-71 Jimmy diesel, a very old and reliable design. Many parts available throughout the world--Mikey
Yes, I don't think I'm going to regret taking out. Plenty of access to the hull and the motor now.
Man! Good Lord that blower intake was dirty!! Love this series brother, absolutely fascinating!!
Sure could use a cleanout!
That crane looks familiar. Isn't that the one Noah used to load the elephants onto the ark? 😂
As long as it can still work who cares? Gets the job done apparently,
Wow this is turning out to be a bigger project than I thought, but that's how boat work goes. Good luck to you
This is adictive. Thanks for taking the time to share!
For those large positive wires--one was black--advise some brake cleaning solvent to get the oil off and mark the black one with some red electrical tape or a piece of red shrink tube. Additionally put a bit of masking tape on all wires marking with your Sharpey felt pen as to their location at each end. In the USA we mark negative mains with yellow. You cannot mark TOO much. On that bilge pump discharge--plumb it up and across under the deck then up into the combing with an upside-down "J" to an overboard thru-hull but still above the waterline-------Mikey
Yes, will definitely put some heat shrink on those wires to mark them better. I'll also look into something better with the overboard discharge along the lines that you suggest.
Hi, FYI you can buy a sandblast attachment for the water blaster. They are cheap and it is an awesome finish. Please number each clip in future.
I've got one for my kaercher that works great but I would recommend a petrol machine for the convenience. ebay for the generic grit attachment. I keep eyeing off Stu's needle scaler, are they worth it? I use a welding chip hammer.
Hi Andrew, The water blaster best for grit blast is up to 3000psi. The needle gun is best used first to remove the deep rust and follow up with the the grit. This gives you as near to Paint spec surface prep as possible.
All the videos are in order in a Playlist th-cam.com/video/w954lDdKm8E/w-d-xo.html
Big job pulling that motor, but you tackled it like a boss Stu! It will be much easier to work below without the Detroit in your way.
For sure Jack, really looking forward to having all that room to move now.
I have to catch up 4 years of videos lol
I haven’t been watching mate. Unfortunately I’ve had so many different hobbies since then and lost interest in boats and jetski’s etc.....
I recently got back into the hobby and bought a jetski. I’m now in the market for a good used cheap reliable boat!!
Watching your videos again is brining back all the passion for this beautiful hobby!!
Good to see your still going strong.
Hope to see ya on the water mate, I’ll throw ya some beers 😂👌
718 comment wow Stu awesome!!
Just on that alternator upgrade it to the largest Amp one you can afford 140-200amp that way you can keep your house batteries charged up fully when steaming around and less solar panels down the track.
Awesome progress Stu! It sounded like it was raining for parts of the video? Thats dedication! Great job keep up the great work and thank you for sharing so much of the process :)
Yeah, was a bit of a rainy day. Oh well, next week is supposed to be better weather. :)
Nice progress ! Really enjoying this series !
Thank mate. :)
Thanks for posting! Even though I will never do this It’s so cool to see how you think about things and brainstorm! I always learn things from your videos!
When you take and engine out when you take bolts and screws out put them in plastic bags and write where the came from on the bag. For each item removed use a nother bag. And make sure you fill oil filter and fuel filter before reinstalling. Replace the old starter with a gear reduction one takes way less voltage to start it. Tag the wires are the smarts thing to do. Install a engine oil cooler while you have it out with electric fan wire to the engine fan sensor to turn it off and on. Will increases engine life greatly.
I'll look into adding the electric fan.
hi stu i know it must be costing you a lot for all the things that need doing but slowly slowly wins the race she is goin to look the bees knees when you finished there are a lot of people watching and we are all cheering you on as much as you dont think the people might not want to watch this bit well let me tell you we do we are all routing for you all the best stu
Thanks mate. A bit of moral support goes a long way. :)
Good video, can't wait to see it all going back together.
3:25 - cables are “a bit how ya goin”; which Urban Dictionary says is Australian for being questionable. Learnt something new today. Tks Stu.
I try to make an educational channel. ;)
The first mentioned tall filter is either a "by pass" oil or fuel filter. The GM "jimmy" engines have a habit of blowing the tip off injectors if they get water, and sooner or later will do so if the big filter is removed. It does a great job of removing water from diesel. Some of them took a roll of paper towels. The by pass oil filter saves a fortune in oil and oil filters, especially if synthetic oil was used. The oil stays clear, as the by pass filter removes the particals of carbon. Gm's were the best engines ever built. Problem is, they used too much fuel because they are two cycle. You could get parts from the closest bar room.
The large filter is a Racor fuel filter as mentioned by others. It needs to be plumbed into the fuel supply hose . They are used as a fuel/water separator. It looks like someone has connected it to the air box drain as a catch can to stop the oil in the bilge. If that’s the case it would need to be vented to let the air box breathe otherwise oil will build up in the air box and possibly cause the engine to run away on the oil.
Yes, it's definitely some sort of home hack catch can. Will be looking fort a better solution before the motor goes back in.
Trying to jack the bearing out of the housing scared the piss out of me, I knew the boat was gonna lift and when it did, I honestly felt fear that a friend was gonna get hurt.
Don't do that yo- we like you being happy, healthy, and .. well, alive.
Sorry for the fright!
Whenever I pull an engine or transmission from a car, I have a roll of blue masking tape on hand so I can tag each wire with a name, or if I don't know what it's for, with a number and then tag the mounting point with the same number. (The tape is also handy for covering the ends of hoses or electrical plugs to keep dirt out.)
enjoying this journey you're on Stu - nice work mate.
As cramped as that engine closet is, I'd give some serious consideration to cutting a larger opening around your existing box. Weld a strip around it, drill holes every 2 to 3 inches, make a gasket and bolt it down. You'll be able to use the existing opening for normal maintenance but, if you have to get to something further down, you can unbolt the whole assembly to gain access without pulling the engine.
Yes, I would like to have better access to the port side should there be an emergency of any sort.
As others have said that's a Racor filter/separator and you can get everything you'll need to put it back in use.
Get a Dymo labelmaker with adhesive labels to mark your wiring. Works Great!
Your a very patient OZ,hope it will be worthwhile on completion good luck
I've subscribed to your channel. I love boats and I love good restorations like the one you're doing on your boat.
Interesting project. Never worked on a 4-71. I did work on 2-71's, 6-71's and 6-110's. I know a people poked fun at them, but if you took care of them the ran forever.
I have heard they are pretty bullet proof.
Hi Stu greetings from Wasaga Beach Ontario Canada Love your Videos and glad to see you have a bottle of Sailor Jerry's for your down time.
"Im just going to put these screws someplace stupid so I'll be sure and lose them". Perfect line.
Keep it up friend stay motivated! This is very intriguing and can't wait for each and every vid to drop
Ahhhhhh you can’t leave us hanging like that !! Great video sir
Thanks again Stu for producing awesome vids
You're welcome mate. :)
These videos are addicting. Great video 👍🏾
Thanks mate, glad you're enjoying. :)
That mystery canister is a Raccor fuel/water separator. Water is heavier than diesel, so it falls to the bottom. The T handle spins off and there is a 10 micron fuel filter in there. Replace it and also replace the O ring on the lid. You can clean the bowl out with fresh diesel. Why they are using it as a catch can, I don't really know. Probably just what was available for a crank case vent. Detroits are notorious leakers, due to the positive crank case pressure. You can buy a kit that creates negative CC pressure. Also, clean and replace the gaskets on the inspection plates.
I need to start making a list of all the good tips and little jobs to do. Lots of great info in these comments.
@@DangarMarine I have a lot of knowledge about Detroit 6-71s and 4-71s are similar. Had a pair of 6-71s i. A 41 foot Viking for years. If you have questions, hit me up. Happy to help!
i can't believe how tight the space where your engine is. My cat has twin Cummins engines and i have walking space completly around the engines.
Awesome, so many interesting things to work on. Good luck with your repairs!
*Bilge pump outlet* -- You could just do away with the hose on deck and leave the rest as-is. I've seen it on other boats where the dewatering pumps eject onto the deck. Like I said, plenty of negatives, but there's at least a couple of positives. You get intimately familiar with the normal amount of water and it is one less hole in the hull-proper.
Yes, I certainly like the idea of having the outlet somewhere I can see the amount of water coming out easily.
I'm enjoying your series. I have a love for all working boats. Yours will be awesome when complete. Tc, Mike
great work, I see Sailor Jerry there helping out
hmmm bit of work there.... hope you got the boat cheap... all the best for the refurbishment!
I don't mind the work, I'm actually quite enjoying it.
That canister is a Raccor brand fuel water separator housing there is a filter inside of that canister. That removes any water from the diesel fuel before the fuel goes to the secondary fuel filter.
Yes sir you beat me to it 👍
Actually I think it's a oil primer. If that's a pump handle on the top it would be to pre-oil the engine before starting. Or it could be one of those extra parts you don't need.
Water separator correct.
Handle on top to undo the filter.
Not a pump .
@@BobWiersema those are cut off valves for incoming and out going fuel for the Racor filter
I agree its a Racor (note one 'c'), you can read the brand off it and it has that featured tap wrench thing on top.
oddly not a clear bowl or barrel though.