I wasted 5 bottles of brake fluid trying to bleed brake lines. No matter what I did, the pedal remained spongy with no pressure. Eventually, I switched left and right calipers to make bleeder point upwards, and thanks to this guys, it worked like magic. Thanks a bunch.
Thanks for your tips. I just purchased a 67 Mustang in the guy did a desperate conversion telling me that there’s constantly air in the lines well sure enough the bleeding screw was on the bottom. I just purchased it tonight and he was the first video that I watched and I really like the one man bleeding system
Thank you thank you thank you. Put on a new master cylinder and no brakes. I had the brake pedal in the lower hole and not the upper. You are the only TH-camr to address this.
Thanks for your tips. I just purchased a 1967 Mustang and the guy did a disc brake conversion telling me that there’s constantly air in the lines well sure enough the bleeding screw was on the bottom. I just purchased it tonight and you was the first video that I watched. So I’m hoping this is the case. and I really like the one man bleeding system.
This video solved a lot of questions on my 78¨ Toyota Jeep disc conversion. The breaks where weak on 4 drum originally. I changed front to disc but stilled weak. Then I changed the master cylinder for 1¨inch bore and got a little better but it needed more braking power. I checked the original workshop manual and figured out that it had a 10lb retention valve for the rear brakes so I'm planning to get it and try again .Thanks for sharing your tips!
Very well done and accurate video with some good tips. One more note on the booster push rod, if adjusted too long, it will make the brakes drag. My experiences... the last few vehicles I worked on, as far as bleeding, it seems as if the master is fully bled, the systems have gravity bled by themselves (non ABS). For example, if I change a bad line, I cap off the port with a plug like you show, then bend and create my new line based off the old line profile and install the new line by removing the temp plug. This keeps the master cylinder full while you make the line up. After the new line is installed, I then open a bleeder at the end of that circuit and wait. I keep an eye on the fluid level in the master and add as necessary until the fluid runs out the hose I put on the bleeder. I also change my systems fluid by doing the same, one bleeder at a time. You can watch the dirty fluid slowly leave the reservoir. Grease on the threads also helps future removal of the bleeders!
Good stuff. Ive had faulty master cylinder right out of the box. Fluid was bypassing the push rod. And it was getting just enough fluid between the master and booster to cause soft pedal. Big headache chasing that down to discover faulty right out of the box...
Yes! When things like that happen it’s tough to diagnose. This whole thing started with me doing a disc brake swap on my 64. I tried tons of stuff to make them work right, for years. My current setup works decent, but I still think it could be better. I’m using the calipers and master cylinder from a 72 chevelle, which are a 1.125 bore master, and a 2.94 inch pistons in the calipers. I have a small diameter vacuum booster, and I’m not sure the LS swap is giving it enough vacuum. I’m hoping to have that sorted out this weekend. We’ll see! Also - your videos are awesome. I hope to paint my Impala in the near future and expect to reference your videos quite a bit!
@@WiringRescue use a good clamp on the vacuum check valve. It took a while to get my brakes working good. But now you will eat the steering wheel if slam the brakes going 50. There are too many fittings involved on these cars. Too many connections for possible leaks
lonestar lows - will do! I’ll double check that it isn’t leaking. I’m pretty sure I don’t have a clamp on it right now. I want my brakes to throw me through the windshield! Lol
I have a 65 impala that had 4 wheel drums.. I bought a front disc brake conversion kit for a couple grand $$$ from Wilwood. After I bought that I discovered I needed an upgraded master cylinder and bought one from CPP. Then life got in the way as it commonly does for a lot of us, and everything sat in their boxes for for a couple years. I eventually got back on task and got everything installed. This included new brake lines. Got everything bled and took the car for a test drive. Brakes worked but I really had to put my leg into it. I read in some forums that you need to use a proportioning valve lock during bleeding. This threads into the brake light circuit on the proportioning valve and prevents the proportioning valve safety feature from actuating and cutting off brake fluid from the side it perceived has a leak. This helped little for me. Then I read for any application using manual brakes (me), a master cylinder with a bore less than 1 inch is a MUST. My master cylinder is 1 1/8". So I just got a power booster. I really hope it does the trick.
Good luck with you project! It sounds like you’re on the right track for sure! I’ve also heard that manual brakes need a smaller bore master cylinder. Hopefully it will work!
Very interesting and so true that after doing the conversion, brakes sucks like mad, worse than even before. Here, i have a 79 Trans Am did a 4 wheels discs conversion. Everything new. Pedal feels good and firm after bleeding. Then when you start the engine, pedal goes to the floor. Switch off the engine, pedal goes back up with firm feel. Start engine, goes to the floor. So what is going on here.
Check all the things in the video out. It’s a sucky process. It could be anything from air in the system to the wrong brake caliper brackets, to a master cylinder that is the wrong piston size inside. There are endless possibilities. Good luck. I know this struggle!
@@WiringRescue Oh yes, I blocked off the rear line and pedal is good with or without engine running. Hook the rear line back, pedal goes to the floor with engine started.
@@hmayerv8 - if you have somebody to help, watch the rear brake calipers when somebody pushes the brakes and make sure that the caliper pistons are not retracting back too far when you let off the brakes. My caliper brackets were on crooked once that caused this issue. If that’s not it, then my vote is that you need a master cylinder that is the next size up. I use 1 1/8 bore in mine for reference. You can look up specs for master cylinders on rockauto.
I put CCP Firewall power brake up grade on my 55 Chevy truck. Never have been happy with them. One more tip is to use a proportion vale tool when bleeding. It keeps the rod from blocking off F or R. Putting in a new rear hose today just to eliminate it. I like the plug idea.
Another good tip would also be when doing brakes if your vehicle has abs be very careful trying to bleed a abs system is a pain if the abs module runs out of brake fluid it can also cause major problems hydrolocking the brake system
i have a 70 impala my pedal is solid until i hook booster up to carbutrator then its drops to ground i did install a mild cam but im lost whats the problem, i just order reserve canister for now ..... but video is very helpful
I have a soft pedal all the time. Car off, soft. Car on, still goes to the floor. Got the right stuff brake kit for 68 Camaro and went with the Non-Ebrake kit for the rear. I have no idea where to start. The mechanics I have left it with cant figure it out. Thoughts? I can elaborate in better detail if needs be.
Hi Mate, great video. I have rebuilt the master cylinder in my 69 camaro wit hfront disck and I just cant bleed my brakes.. I have even lossened the two lines from the master cylinder and I get a very little oil comming out. what could be the issiue. The master cylinder goes into a Proportional valve and then into a metering valve. The pedal feels stiff but I dont get any pressure or oil comming out of the master even thou I crack the lines at the master cylinder.
I'm changing from a single chamber master cylinder to a dual chamber for safety. I'm wondering if I use a master cylinder, correct bore, from a car that has single piston front calipers will it work with my calipers which are 4 pistons each? Too small and not enough fluid pressure perhaps? Or should I use a master cylinder that comes from a car with 4 piston calipers?
It’s probably best to use the master cylinder designed for the 4-piston calipers. There is a lot of engineering involved in pushing the fluid around. :)
Thank you for the video! Some nice tips in there. Wondering what you think about my problem… (74 F100) originally manual brakes front disk rear drum. Brakes were great other than not having a booster. Went ahead and got a booster and master kid they make for my truck and upgraded to a rear disk kit made for the truck. (I did not reinstall the factory proportioning valve) problem I’m having is the pedal doesn’t want to return to the “neutral” position, but it does realms most of the way so I just lift it the rest of the way with my foot. I did notice that the rear disks are not engaging (I have an adjustable proportioning valve I can install) , but could that be my pedal issue? Seems to also want to stick more once I’ve been driving a few miles. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
Good question, I’m not actually sure. That would be an interesting thing to know though. If so - it may be beneficial to have a check valve on the rear line. Anybody else here know this answer?
Great video... One question: How does one re-center the pressure differential valve as it got triggered while bleeding my brakes and I didn't know about the block off plug? 🤔
use any tool that fits in the hole after removing plastic threaded brake switch ,move the valve forward or back to center it depending which way it got triggered . you’ll know it’s centered when you see it concaved in
HELP!!!! So I replaced the master cylinder and booster on my 1957 Ranchero. After bleeding the system and with the engine NOT running I had great pedal pressure with no fading. However, once I started the engine, the pedal would go all the way to the floor with no resistance at all. Very frustrating…. What’s the dang deal??? (This Ranchero had a front disc brake conversion a few years ago.) Someone…. Please help!!
On my 62 with disc brakes conversion it has only one line coming out of the proportioning valve (top small hole) and tee to both front caliper’s the bottom hole is plugged , could that be a problem?
T I havea 2014 Honda Accord every time I change all pads and rotors it only takes a little while for it to feel like my brakes are not catching sometimes it feels smooth and tha. Others it feels like it's braking I. To nothing as if my brakes already word down, could this be the master cylinder. I'm in my 3-4 brake pads and rotors and still.having this issue
Great video...going to put that info to work soon. Dad's 33 Ford Sedan brakes (pedal action) is hard as a rock with very little travel. He's running the typical mix rear drums disk front (9in caliper) with booster. Car is an old build so I'm not sure what he bought for a mc/booster. Believe ill start by swapping the master. Thoughts?
Kinda a good Vid bud . Doin a 56 chev 2 door wagon . What diameter , brak line do you suggest front and rear m converting to front disc , with s-10 calipers , and stock 56 rear wheel cylinders? Hope t9 hear back
A question I have is: vacuum bleeding the front brakes on my 2001 dodge ram works fine.. but not the rear brakes; the brake lite came on the first and last time I tried it .... it obviously off-balanced the combination valve; should I hold off the metering valve or maybe keep the brake pedal pressed while vacuum bleeding the rear brakes..if anyone knows? thank you I wont try it again unless I can be sure
The brakes on my car are very much Frankenstein. I have calipers from a Pontiac boneville, rotors from a Toyota previa, and a custom bracket. It worked for a bit but they lock up.
I've done a disc brake conversion with hydroboost I have no rear brake I've adjusted calipers changed master and hydrobust moved brake pedal to bottom hole still nothing any advice thanks
Do you have rear disc? If so - Have you adjusted your parking brake ? Depending on the brake system you have, sometimes that will make all the difference.
@@WiringRescue by adjusting what wilwood tech told me to do us engage and disengage about 30 times and that should adjust it I've done that e brake works but regular brakes dont
My brake travel is fine. However, my brakes just don't lock up. I can push down as hard as I can and it still just gradually stops. Kinda scary.. the thing that is annoying is I bought the car like this and I have no idea about anything. I upgraded first the booster thinking it was that, then master cylinder with 1 inch bore and still same thing. All brakes have no air in them. Not really sure what to do now
I use a 1 1/8th inch master cylinder and my brakes lock up so tight my rear tires skid even when I don’t want them to. It’s honestly not great. I’ve considered going to a smaller bore rear wheel cylinder (7/8) to see if that helps. I also am toying with the idea of adding an adjustable proportioning valve to try to dial it in a little better. Once I figure it out 100% I’m going to shout my brake setup from the roof tops so nobody else has to deal with mixing and matching crap that doesn’t work. What calipers are you using and do you have an Impala or something else?
@@WiringRescue thank you for your response, it's a 69 Camaro with c4 brake calipers. That's all the guy knew when I bought it off of him. And yeah it's frustrating when you keep buying stuff hoping it's going to work just to find out it didn't change anything..
For 15 years the 66 chevelle my dad bought has had questionable brakes..front disk conversion with poor performance.. brake pedal has always been hard. My dad passed away Feb 11 . Since then I've been trying to fix certain issues with it that he wanted done. The pushrod attached to brake pedal was in the wrong position moved it up to get rid of the angle it was at pedal is now soft lol brakes work a little better . Found that the car still has the small individual distribution blocks from the manual brake set up it came with .. not the proportioning valve that's found in the 67 model that it should for power brakes
Ok I have a 1990 Toyota 4Runner w/ manual transmission 4x4. I have disc rotors on front, and drum brakes on rear. I use OEM Organic pads. I bled my brakes, my brakes work, no leaks. I don't have ABS. Sometimes when I slowly exit the driveway, I will tap the brakes and one of the rear tires will briefly lock up and release, leaving a 8" streak/tire skid in the driveway. Its random, it can be one wheel or the other rear wheel with drum brakes. It only happens at very low speed. Any ideas? I have new dot 3 brake fluid, I never mix synthetic with conventional brake fluid. I have that Load Sensing Proportional Valve in the rear on the vehicle. Its 34 years old, original. Could it be that? Its not my wheel cyl, they are new. They are OEM and I changed them myself, thiinking they were problematic. But they are not. The master cyl is original. But my brakes are working.
Is it possible that the drum brakes are just adjusted too tight with the self adjuster? Is it possible that the rear brake shoes ever got soaked in brake fluid? Sometimes that makes them “grabby”. Lastly - it could be the valve you mentioned. If it believes that there is a larger load in the truck, it will give more braking to the rear. Does it have stock suspension? Could the adjustable rod on the brake load adjuster valve be bent? That’s all of my ideas at the moment 😂
I did power disk break on my 65 impala and they worl for about 3 4 stops then they lock up and i have to releave bleeder nut for them to release what should i look at everything els is right ...frame off restoration and i want to drive it already with out worries
Check to see if the rubber brake lines are twisted/pinched/blocked. Also check to see if the adjustable rod that goes between the brake pedal and master cylinder is not adjusted wrong.
@WiringRescue it has a rod inside the piston to extend it I'm gon cut it down and shorten it see it that's the problem almost seems like it's not relieving all the pressure
Pump the pedal. Hold it down. Start the car. If the pedal doesn’t go down more when the car starts, the brake booster is not working. That’s where I would start.
I'm having that problem my car is 73 Duster came with 10inch drums and 9inch in the back. I did disc brake swap i bought a power brake booster from Summit. I bought big bolt 7 1/4 because disc brakes car on Duster has big bolt pattern. Drum brakes car have small bolt pattern..
I depends how much vacuum your engine makes and the design of your power brakes. If you are using vacuum operated power brake booster, it will have a minimum vacuum requirement that your engine will need to make. If you have hydraulically assisted power brakes, the engine vacuum doesn’t matter. If you have manual brakes, the engine doesn’t matter.
I swapped over to disc brakes and found that the small diameter brake booster.( 9 inch), required 17 inch's of vacuum to work properly, I only have 12 at idle, so I hooked up a vacuum canister & vacuum gauge to monitor it, when it drops below 17 inch's my pedal is hard, above 17 and it works perfectly, I should note that it does drop 5 inch's every brake application so on occasion I have to "burp" the throttle to create vacuum, wife hates that lol
So I have a problem when I slam on the brakes it will not stop on time. Still rolls. Almost ran over a Crack head crossing the street. Lol.. 1957 f100 ,crown vic front suspension 8 inch booster and 1.125 mastercylinder.
Haha! Sorry to hear that. You can usually extract some of the fluid from a master cylinder and replace it with new fluid. You just have to make sure you don’t remove too much. Stuck brakes are often from stuck calipers - so be sure to give those a look as well! Good luck!
Agreed! That’s why I made this video. I have had many of these problems over the years screw up my braking and cause them to not work. Good luck with your project!
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I wasted 5 bottles of brake fluid trying to bleed brake lines. No matter what I did, the pedal remained spongy with no pressure.
Eventually, I switched left and right calipers to make bleeder point upwards, and thanks to this guys, it worked like magic.
Thanks a bunch.
Awesome!! I’m glad it works now! Congrats!
Thanks for your tips. I just purchased a 67 Mustang in the guy did a desperate conversion telling me that there’s constantly air in the lines well sure enough the bleeding screw was on the bottom. I just purchased it tonight and he was the first video that I watched and I really like the one man bleeding system
Thank you thank you thank you. Put on a new master cylinder and no brakes. I had the brake pedal in the lower hole and not the upper. You are the only TH-camr to address this.
That’s great! I’m glad that you were able to sort it out!
Thanks for your tips. I just purchased a 1967 Mustang and the guy did a disc brake conversion telling me that there’s constantly air in the lines well sure enough the bleeding screw was on the bottom. I just purchased it tonight and you was the first video that I watched. So I’m hoping this is the case.
and I really like the one man bleeding system.
That sounds like a perfect diagnosis to me! Enjoy your soon-to-be working brakes on your new mustang!
Thank you again. I also noticed the master cylinder is a bit loose while pumping the brake pedal.
This video solved a lot of questions on my 78¨ Toyota Jeep disc conversion. The breaks where weak on 4 drum originally. I changed front to disc but stilled weak. Then I changed the master cylinder for 1¨inch bore and got a little better but it needed more braking power. I checked the original workshop manual and figured out that it had a 10lb retention valve for the rear brakes so I'm planning to get it and try again .Thanks for sharing your tips!
Excellent! Hopefully you get it sorted out! Keep me updated!
Very well done and accurate video with some good tips. One more note on the booster push rod, if adjusted too long, it will make the brakes drag. My experiences... the last few vehicles I worked on, as far as bleeding, it seems as if the master is fully bled, the systems have gravity bled by themselves (non ABS). For example, if I change a bad line, I cap off the port with a plug like you show, then bend and create my new line based off the old line profile and install the new line by removing the temp plug. This keeps the master cylinder full while you make the line up. After the new line is installed, I then open a bleeder at the end of that circuit and wait. I keep an eye on the fluid level in the master and add as necessary until the fluid runs out the hose I put on the bleeder. I also change my systems fluid by doing the same, one bleeder at a time. You can watch the dirty fluid slowly leave the reservoir. Grease on the threads also helps future removal of the bleeders!
Good stuff. Ive had faulty master cylinder right out of the box. Fluid was bypassing the push rod. And it was getting just enough fluid between the master and booster to cause soft pedal. Big headache chasing that down to discover faulty right out of the box...
Yes! When things like that happen it’s tough to diagnose. This whole thing started with me doing a disc brake swap on my 64. I tried tons of stuff to make them work right, for years. My current setup works decent, but I still think it could be better. I’m using the calipers and master cylinder from a 72 chevelle, which are a 1.125 bore master, and a 2.94 inch pistons in the calipers. I have a small diameter vacuum booster, and I’m not sure the LS swap is giving it enough vacuum. I’m hoping to have that sorted out this weekend. We’ll see!
Also - your videos are awesome. I hope to paint my Impala in the near future and expect to reference your videos quite a bit!
@@WiringRescue use a good clamp on the vacuum check valve. It took a while to get my brakes working good. But now you will eat the steering wheel if slam the brakes going 50. There are too many fittings involved on these cars. Too many connections for possible leaks
lonestar lows - will do! I’ll double check that it isn’t leaking. I’m pretty sure I don’t have a clamp on it right now. I want my brakes to throw me through the windshield! Lol
I have a 65 impala that had 4 wheel drums.. I bought a front disc brake conversion kit for a couple grand $$$ from Wilwood. After I bought that I discovered I needed an upgraded master cylinder and bought one from CPP. Then life got in the way as it commonly does for a lot of us, and everything sat in their boxes for for a couple years. I eventually got back on task and got everything installed. This included new brake lines. Got everything bled and took the car for a test drive. Brakes worked but I really had to put my leg into it. I read in some forums that you need to use a proportioning valve lock during bleeding. This threads into the brake light circuit on the proportioning valve and prevents the proportioning valve safety feature from actuating and cutting off brake fluid from the side it perceived has a leak. This helped little for me. Then I read for any application using manual brakes (me), a master cylinder with a bore less than 1 inch is a MUST. My master cylinder is 1 1/8". So I just got a power booster. I really hope it does the trick.
Good luck with you project! It sounds like you’re on the right track for sure! I’ve also heard that manual brakes need a smaller bore master cylinder. Hopefully it will work!
I pull a light vacuum on the bleeder screw. I used to use engine vacuum, but now I have a electric pump I use. Works great.
That’s a great idea!
Very interesting and so true that after doing the conversion, brakes sucks like mad, worse than even before. Here, i have a 79 Trans Am did a 4 wheels discs conversion. Everything new. Pedal feels good and firm after bleeding. Then when you start the engine, pedal goes to the floor. Switch off the engine, pedal goes back up with firm feel. Start engine, goes to the floor.
So what is going on here.
Check all the things in the video out. It’s a sucky process. It could be anything from air in the system to the wrong brake caliper brackets, to a master cylinder that is the wrong piston size inside. There are endless possibilities. Good luck. I know this struggle!
@@WiringRescue Oh yes, I blocked off the rear line and pedal is good with or without engine running. Hook the rear line back, pedal goes to the floor with engine started.
@@hmayerv8 - if you have somebody to help, watch the rear brake calipers when somebody pushes the brakes and make sure that the caliper pistons are not retracting back too far when you let off the brakes. My caliper brackets were on crooked once that caused this issue. If that’s not it, then my vote is that you need a master cylinder that is the next size up. I use 1 1/8 bore in mine for reference. You can look up specs for master cylinders on rockauto.
U corrected my problem, thanks 😊
Excellent! I’m happy that it helped you out! Thanks for watching!
I put CCP Firewall power brake up grade on my 55 Chevy truck. Never have been happy with them. One more tip is to use a proportion vale tool when bleeding. It keeps the rod from blocking off F or R. Putting in a new rear hose today just to eliminate it. I like the plug idea.
Great informative tutorial and demonstration video Brother
Another good tip would also be when doing brakes if your vehicle has abs be very careful trying to bleed a abs system is a pain if the abs module runs out of brake fluid it can also cause major problems hydrolocking the brake system
i have a 70 impala my pedal is solid until i hook booster up to carbutrator then its drops to ground i did install a mild cam but im lost whats the problem, i just order reserve canister for now ..... but video is very helpful
I have a soft pedal all the time. Car off, soft. Car on, still goes to the floor. Got the right stuff brake kit for 68 Camaro and went with the Non-Ebrake kit for the rear. I have no idea where to start. The mechanics I have left it with cant figure it out. Thoughts? I can elaborate in better detail if needs be.
Very good way to diagnose a break system i agree with these steps
Hi Mate, great video. I have rebuilt the master cylinder in my 69 camaro wit hfront disck and I just cant bleed my brakes.. I have even lossened the two lines from the master cylinder and I get a very little oil comming out. what could be the issiue. The master cylinder goes into a Proportional valve and then into a metering valve. The pedal feels stiff but I dont get any pressure or oil comming out of the master even thou I crack the lines at the master cylinder.
I'm changing from a single chamber master cylinder to a dual chamber for safety. I'm wondering if I use a master cylinder, correct bore, from a car that has single piston front calipers will it work with my calipers which are 4 pistons each? Too small and not enough fluid pressure perhaps? Or should I use a master cylinder that comes from a car with 4 piston calipers?
It’s probably best to use the master cylinder designed for the 4-piston calipers. There is a lot of engineering involved in pushing the fluid around. :)
Thank you for the video! Some nice tips in there. Wondering what you think about my problem… (74 F100) originally manual brakes front disk rear drum. Brakes were great other than not having a booster. Went ahead and got a booster and master kid they make for my truck and upgraded to a rear disk kit made for the truck. (I did not reinstall the factory proportioning valve) problem I’m having is the pedal doesn’t want to return to the “neutral” position, but it does realms most of the way so I just lift it the rest of the way with my foot. I did notice that the rear disks are not engaging (I have an adjustable proportioning valve I can install) , but could that be my pedal issue? Seems to also want to stick more once I’ve been driving a few miles. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
Excellent video!
Thank you very much! I appreciate you watching!
Bravo! Well done. Just the facts.
Glad you liked the video!
Dont the old 4 wheel drum brake master cylinders keep residual prrssure?
Good question, I’m not actually sure. That would be an interesting thing to know though. If so - it may be beneficial to have a check valve on the rear line. Anybody else here know this answer?
Or just spend the 15 bucks to get a master cylinder set up for disk/ drum or 4 wheel disk
adam burch - true. The tricky part is figuring out which master cylinder to buy since they come in so many different bore sizes.
Great video... One question:
How does one re-center the pressure differential valve as it got triggered while bleeding my brakes and I didn't know about the block off plug? 🤔
use any tool that fits in the hole after removing plastic threaded brake switch ,move the valve forward or back to center it depending which way it got triggered . you’ll know it’s centered when you see it concaved in
HELP!!!! So I replaced the master cylinder and booster on my 1957 Ranchero. After bleeding the system and with the engine NOT running I had great pedal pressure with no fading. However, once I started the engine, the pedal would go all the way to the floor with no resistance at all. Very frustrating…. What’s the dang deal???
(This Ranchero had a front disc brake conversion a few years ago.)
Someone…. Please help!!
On my 62 with disc brakes conversion it has only one line coming out of the proportioning valve (top small hole) and tee to both front caliper’s the bottom hole is plugged , could that be a problem?
T
I havea 2014 Honda Accord every time I change all pads and rotors it only takes a little while for it to feel like my brakes are not catching sometimes it feels smooth and tha. Others it feels like it's braking I. To nothing as if my brakes already word down, could this be the master cylinder. I'm in my 3-4 brake pads and rotors and still.having this issue
Great video...going to put that info to work soon. Dad's 33 Ford Sedan brakes (pedal action) is hard as a rock with very little travel. He's running the typical mix rear drums disk front (9in caliper) with booster. Car is an old build so I'm not sure what he bought for a mc/booster. Believe ill start by swapping the master. Thoughts?
Kinda a good Vid bud . Doin a 56 chev 2 door wagon . What diameter , brak line do you suggest front and rear m converting to front disc , with s-10 calipers , and stock 56 rear wheel cylinders? Hope t9 hear back
A question I have is: vacuum bleeding the front brakes on my 2001 dodge ram works fine.. but not the rear brakes; the brake lite came on the first and last time I tried it .... it obviously off-balanced the combination valve; should I hold off the metering valve or maybe keep the brake pedal pressed while vacuum bleeding the rear brakes..if anyone knows? thank you I wont try it again unless I can be sure
The brakes on my car are very much Frankenstein. I have calipers from a Pontiac boneville, rotors from a Toyota previa, and a custom bracket. It worked for a bit but they lock up.
I've done a disc brake conversion with hydroboost I have no rear brake I've adjusted calipers changed master and hydrobust moved brake pedal to bottom hole still nothing any advice thanks
Do you have rear disc? If so - Have you adjusted your parking brake ? Depending on the brake system you have, sometimes that will make all the difference.
@@WiringRescue by adjusting what wilwood tech told me to do us engage and disengage about 30 times and that should adjust it I've done that e brake works but regular brakes dont
What about setting the break booster
Great advice! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching, I appreciate it!
My brake travel is fine. However, my brakes just don't lock up. I can push down as hard as I can and it still just gradually stops. Kinda scary.. the thing that is annoying is I bought the car like this and I have no idea about anything. I upgraded first the booster thinking it was that, then master cylinder with 1 inch bore and still same thing. All brakes have no air in them. Not really sure what to do now
I use a 1 1/8th inch master cylinder and my brakes lock up so tight my rear tires skid even when I don’t want them to. It’s honestly not great. I’ve considered going to a smaller bore rear wheel cylinder (7/8) to see if that helps.
I also am toying with the idea of adding an adjustable proportioning valve to try to dial it in a little better. Once I figure it out 100% I’m going to shout my brake setup from the roof tops so nobody else has to deal with mixing and matching crap that doesn’t work.
What calipers are you using and do you have an Impala or something else?
@@WiringRescue thank you for your response, it's a 69 Camaro with c4 brake calipers. That's all the guy knew when I bought it off of him. And yeah it's frustrating when you keep buying stuff hoping it's going to work just to find out it didn't change anything..
For 15 years the 66 chevelle my dad bought has had questionable brakes..front disk conversion with poor performance.. brake pedal has always been hard. My dad passed away Feb 11 . Since then I've been trying to fix certain issues with it that he wanted done. The pushrod attached to brake pedal was in the wrong position moved it up to get rid of the angle it was at pedal is now soft lol brakes work a little better . Found that the car still has the small individual distribution blocks from the manual brake set up it came with .. not the proportioning valve that's found in the 67 model that it should for power brakes
Excellent video! Thank you.
Ok I have a 1990 Toyota 4Runner w/ manual transmission 4x4. I have disc rotors on front, and drum brakes on rear. I use OEM Organic pads. I bled my brakes, my brakes work, no leaks. I don't have ABS. Sometimes when I slowly exit the driveway, I will tap the brakes and one of the rear tires will briefly lock up and release, leaving a 8" streak/tire skid in the driveway. Its random, it can be one wheel or the other rear wheel with drum brakes. It only happens at very low speed. Any ideas? I have new dot 3 brake fluid, I never mix synthetic with conventional brake fluid. I have that Load Sensing Proportional Valve in the rear on the vehicle. Its 34 years old, original. Could it be that? Its not my wheel cyl, they are new. They are OEM and I changed them myself, thiinking they were problematic. But they are not. The master cyl is original. But my brakes are working.
Is it possible that the drum brakes are just adjusted too tight with the self adjuster? Is it possible that the rear brake shoes ever got soaked in brake fluid? Sometimes that makes them “grabby”. Lastly - it could be the valve you mentioned. If it believes that there is a larger load in the truck, it will give more braking to the rear. Does it have stock suspension? Could the adjustable rod on the brake load adjuster valve be bent? That’s all of my ideas at the moment 😂
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very helpful, thank you!!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
I did power disk break on my 65 impala and they worl for about 3 4 stops then they lock up and i have to releave bleeder nut for them to release what should i look at everything els is right ...frame off restoration and i want to drive it already with out worries
Check to see if the rubber brake lines are twisted/pinched/blocked. Also check to see if the adjustable rod that goes between the brake pedal and master cylinder is not adjusted wrong.
@WiringRescue it has a rod inside the piston to extend it I'm gon cut it down and shorten it see it that's the problem almost seems like it's not relieving all the pressure
And some calipers are dual piston and some are quad pistons
I put big brake kit on it wildwood
Great advice
Thanks for the video, helpful
purchased a 67 lemans ...with disc conversion Brakes HARD AS HELL TO PUSH/STOP..WHAT SHOULD I LOOK FOR FIRST.
Pump the pedal. Hold it down. Start the car. If the pedal doesn’t go down more when the car starts, the brake booster is not working. That’s where I would start.
I'm having that problem my car is 73 Duster came with 10inch drums and 9inch in the back. I did disc brake swap i bought a power brake booster from Summit. I bought big bolt 7 1/4 because disc brakes car on Duster has big bolt pattern. Drum brakes car have small bolt pattern..
Good tips.
Thanks! I tried to think of all the problem areas I’ve come across over 20 years of wrenching on stuff!
I was wondering if my 455 442 1969 motor will operate my disc brakes?
I depends how much vacuum your engine makes and the design of your power brakes. If you are using vacuum operated power brake booster, it will have a minimum vacuum requirement that your engine will need to make. If you have hydraulically assisted power brakes, the engine vacuum doesn’t matter. If you have manual brakes, the engine doesn’t matter.
I swapped over to disc brakes and found that the small diameter brake booster.( 9 inch), required 17 inch's of vacuum to work properly, I only have 12 at idle, so I hooked up a vacuum canister & vacuum gauge to monitor it, when it drops below 17 inch's my pedal is hard, above 17 and it works perfectly, I should note that it does drop 5 inch's every brake application so on occasion I have to "burp" the throttle to create vacuum, wife hates that lol
Great info! Sometimes I tap the throttle for me, and my brakes! ;)
So I have a problem when I slam on the brakes it will not stop on time. Still rolls. Almost ran over a Crack head crossing the street. Lol.. 1957 f100 ,crown vic front suspension 8 inch booster and 1.125 mastercylinder.
I see you changed the channel name to match instagram Jeremy Brother love the channel name bro
Thanks Antonio. I also made a fancy new channel logo! (The wheel). I’m trying man!
@@WiringRescue thats all you can do brother is try keep up the great work
My friend is a fool. You've shown me that. He took all the fluid from the master and said, it's fine. Then put new in. Now my front brakes lock up.
Haha! Sorry to hear that. You can usually extract some of the fluid from a master cylinder and replace it with new fluid. You just have to make sure you don’t remove too much. Stuck brakes are often from stuck calipers - so be sure to give those a look as well! Good luck!
😦😦you sure wont feel good if you dont have brakes when you step on that pedal😭
Agreed! That’s why I made this video. I have had many of these problems over the years screw up my braking and cause them to not work. Good luck with your project!