Ya know not only are Master Power Brakes the top of the food chain when it comes to brakes, especially on modified vehicles or street rod applications, but we are treated with these wonderful and informative videos that explain everything from A to Z about brakes and their components ... Thank you for this video.
thank you for a great informative video! I actually purchased a disk brake conversion kit for ‘63 Nova in the late eighties. I think the tech that assisted me back then was named Carmen thanx again
If you where SMART -- you'd buy the COMBO valve and forget all the rest of the mess! All I use is Master Power Brake Components on any and all restorations or new car build jobs I do in my shop. Been using them for over 20 years and they're the only place to go to get the RIGHT STUFF!
Very informative! I just added power front discs to a '65 Ford Galaxie using another brand's kit (retaining original rear drums), but I may get one of your combination valve kits.
Why is the Maser Cyl. on the right plumber differently than the one on the left. I have a brake problem and I believe it may be that the combo valve was installed incorrectly. Mine uses a GM Master and the line closest to the booster goes to the 3/16 front while the Front line on the Master goes to the rear brakes of the combo, this is incorrect right? I wish I could just drop off my truck to you guys to fix this hard pedal power brake problem I have. Oh and the Master is a 1 1/2 inch bore.
Hey ya ..good info. I've had brake issues with a 81 Malibu classic and a 93 Chevy 1500 pick up. Had a shop work on both ..not good. If I'm backing down hill.. the back brakes do not work at all. What a danger. On the truck...in cold weather they freeze solid at times. It seems I have only front brakes as the drums and shoes still look new. The only part I have not replaced is thecombination or proportioning velve... Should the rear brakes be on solid if your on a hill or stopped with your foot on the pedal? At Cal tire they told me the proportioning velve was machanical and that's not part of their job. What's your answer to my issues......could the velve be dirty and freeze up?
I’m having a hard time bleeding the master cylinder. On the vise tilted and I push and push over and over , No bubbles yet I have to give the peddle a pump first then pump again to stop. I don’t have any leaks , what’s going on?
great video, but what is the best location for the pressure residual valves? Should they be as close to the master cylinder, in relationship to the metering valve, proportioning valve, and a front brake lock device. Thanks in advance
interesting about your comment that the proportioning valve never to be in the front - Wilwood explicitly told me to have mine in the front brakes of my drag car due to the skinny tires up front and the need to have the rear brakes do more work in this instance.
In race situations there are some exceptions. In most instances you never want to limit the pressure to the front wheels with a prop valve. The better way to do this would be with a bias setup or balance bar controlling how much pressure goes to the front or rear wheels. Hope this helps.
I have a combination valve from an 05 escalade that i want to use for a 1974 camaro, i plan to do the rear upgrade to disk. Would that combination valve work even though it came out of a Cadillac with ABS?
I have a manual, single line, 4 wheel drum system and am switching it to a dual line power system, and keeping it 4 wheel drum. Do I need a proportioning valve or a valve at all?
I have a 65 Impala that I installed factory disc brakes from a 69 Impala on years ago. I picked up a stock GM combination valve that worked great with front disc and rear drum. I just converted to Wilwood four-wheel disc brakes. The supplied combination valve does not jive with my setup; meaning many of the little brake lines do not fit neatly and are in need of adapters so the setup looks sloppy. If I keep my original combination valve, The brake lines will pretty much remain the same as they were. Will the combination valve I have work with four-wheel disc brakes? Or how do I tell what kind of valve it is? It doesn't look like any of the ones in your video it is much smaller. It almost looks like a distribution block.
I have a 1989 Bronco. I just had the rear drums replaced and now every now and then if I hit a good bump, the rear brakes slowly start to tighten up until they are locked. Which valve might that be or is it more likely a pinched line or bad install
What about a dirt only VW bug motor in rear,I'd like to be able to lower or raise or balance my all drum system as I see fit ,so I may actually turn fronts way down on occasion,I know for street that's a bad idea,but I'm playing in dirt on closed course
You mentioned that there is a difference between Ford & GM Master Cylinders. Is there a difference between Ford & GM proportioning valves as well, or are they all Universal Fit??
I was told you dont need a proportioning valve for all disk applications. Dont you want all 4 disks to have the same amount of pressure? I understand the pressure differential valve is a nice safety feature in case you lose half of your brakes.
as you slow down weight shifts to the front of your vehicle, the proportioning valve limits brake pressure to rear wheels as this happens reducing potential for your unloaded back wheels to skid
I want zero drag on front wheels and brakes when no pedal pressure is applied. Should I just take out the residual valve out of the front. This is a drag car.
I believe it's the one by his right hand. Comparatively speaking, discs need pressure and drums need volume [due to take up to get to engagement and extra travel required by leveraged arrangement]. For that reason, you find disc/drum master cylinders have a small resevoir for the disc side.
Ya know not only are Master Power Brakes the top of the food chain when it comes to brakes, especially on modified vehicles or street rod applications, but we are treated with these wonderful and informative videos that explain everything from A to Z about brakes and their components ... Thank you for this video.
thank you for a great informative video! I actually purchased a disk brake conversion kit for ‘63 Nova in the late eighties. I think the tech that assisted me back then was named Carmen thanx again
If you where SMART -- you'd buy the COMBO valve and forget all the rest of the mess! All I use is Master Power Brake Components on any and all restorations or new car build jobs I do in my shop. Been using them for over 20 years and they're the only place to go to get the RIGHT STUFF!
Great Video im studying for my A5 ASE test and this video helped out a lot. thank you Master Power Brakes!
Did you pass?
Don't forget pickup trucks as a rear drum works fine. Keep it where you can reach as in case you get load in backend!
DK, ASE Master since 78.
Good video. Wish you had each one explained in further detail with animation and/or graphs. A bit about failure symptoms.
Great video Sir! I'm upgrading the "former 4 wheel drum brakes" to a all wheel disc brakes on my 1980 Toyota FJ in Brazil... cheers from the Jungle!
Very informative! I just added power front discs to a '65 Ford Galaxie using another brand's kit (retaining original rear drums), but I may get one of your combination valve kits.
Very very informative video. Thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful!
Its good to know about valve variations.
Great video I wish it had a link to your website
Why is the Maser Cyl. on the right plumber differently than the one on the left. I have a brake problem and I believe it may be that the combo valve was installed incorrectly. Mine uses a GM Master and the line closest to the booster goes to the 3/16 front while the Front line on the Master goes to the rear brakes of the combo, this is incorrect right? I wish I could just drop off my truck to you guys to fix this hard pedal power brake problem I have. Oh and the Master is a 1 1/2 inch bore.
Hey ya ..good info. I've had brake issues with a 81 Malibu classic and a 93 Chevy 1500 pick up. Had a shop work on both ..not good. If I'm backing down hill.. the back brakes do not work at all. What a danger. On the truck...in cold weather they freeze solid at times. It seems I have only front brakes as the drums and shoes still look new. The only part I have not replaced is thecombination or proportioning velve... Should the rear brakes be on solid if your on a hill or stopped with your foot on the pedal? At Cal tire they told me the proportioning velve was machanical and that's not part of their job. What's your answer to my issues......could the velve be dirty and freeze up?
I’m having a hard time bleeding the master cylinder. On the vise tilted and I push and push over and over , No bubbles yet I have to give the peddle a pump first then pump again to stop. I don’t have any leaks , what’s going on?
great video, but what is the best location for the pressure residual valves? Should they be as close to the master cylinder, in relationship to the metering valve, proportioning valve, and a front brake lock device. Thanks in advance
What it the rubber cap for on the metering block ? Mine leaks there and not sure what to do about it, Is it threaded to tighten etc..
What would be the appropriate setup or valves for a drum/drum jeep 76 cj5? ¿Can a use a disk/drum valve?
interesting about your comment that the proportioning valve never to be in the front - Wilwood explicitly told me to have mine in the front brakes of my drag car due to the skinny tires up front and the need to have the rear brakes do more work in this instance.
In race situations there are some exceptions. In most instances you never want to limit the pressure to the front wheels with a prop valve. The better way to do this would be with a bias setup or balance bar controlling how much pressure goes to the front or rear wheels. Hope this helps.
I need HELP! What is the difference between a 4 and 5 port prop valve for disc/drum application?
I have a combination valve from an 05 escalade that i want to use for a 1974 camaro, i plan to do the rear upgrade to disk. Would that combination valve work even though it came out of a Cadillac with ABS?
What do I do with four-wheel drum brakes for say a 70 GMC pickup
Excellent.keeup up the good work & explanation
I have a manual, single line, 4 wheel drum system and am switching it to a dual line power system, and keeping it 4 wheel drum. Do I need a proportioning valve or a valve at all?
Do they make one for Drum/drum
I have a 65 Impala that I installed factory disc brakes from a 69 Impala on years ago. I picked up a stock GM combination valve that worked great with front disc and rear drum. I just converted to Wilwood four-wheel disc brakes. The supplied combination valve does not jive with my setup; meaning many of the little brake lines do not fit neatly and are in need of adapters so the setup looks sloppy. If I keep my original combination valve, The brake lines will pretty much remain the same as they were. Will the combination valve I have work with four-wheel disc brakes? Or how do I tell what kind of valve it is? It doesn't look like any of the ones in your video it is much smaller. It almost looks like a distribution block.
In what direction should a 2lbs wilwood residaul vale go i just place a under the frame break kit just need to no what direction they go
I have a 1989 Bronco. I just had the rear drums replaced and now every now and then if I hit a good bump, the rear brakes slowly start to tighten up until they are locked. Which valve might that be or is it more likely a pinched line or bad install
What about a dirt only VW bug motor in rear,I'd like to be able to lower or raise or balance my all drum system as I see fit ,so I may actually turn fronts way down on occasion,I know for street that's a bad idea,but I'm playing in dirt on closed course
You mentioned that there is a difference between Ford & GM Master Cylinders. Is there a difference between Ford & GM proportioning valves as well, or are they all Universal Fit??
I was told you dont need a proportioning valve for all disk applications. Dont you want all 4 disks to have the same amount of pressure?
I understand the pressure differential valve is a nice safety feature in case you lose half of your brakes.
as you slow down weight shifts to the front of your vehicle, the proportioning valve limits brake pressure to rear wheels as this happens reducing potential for your unloaded back wheels to skid
I want zero drag on front wheels and brakes when no pedal pressure is applied. Should I just take out the residual valve out of the front. This is a drag car.
Whith reservoir is for the front brakes (disc/drum)?
I believe it's the one by his right hand. Comparatively speaking, discs need pressure and drums need volume [due to take up to get to engagement and extra travel required by leveraged arrangement]. For that reason, you find disc/drum master cylinders have a small resevoir for the disc side.
Pretty good info but I gave up on watching the video because they keep zooming out for no reason
Rrrtt