For all the people who argued with the OP you don't need 6:1 ratio for manual brakes you need ~4:1 for power brakes. You achieve that by lowering the piston on the pedal exactly as the op said. There's a formula for it in fact - just google. And you get a shorter pedal throw in the process. But also check your push rod able to your master cylinder. Too much of an angle and you create other problems - the push rod is supposed to be with 5 degrees of perpendicular to the pedal or something like that. This is why lots of GM cars have tilted master cylinders! Thanks for the video Rocker Pat!
Thanks Pat, I’ve been messin with a 4 wheel power disc conversion on my 65 C10 for a while now, never could get a decent pedal till I found this video.
Hey Pat. That is very good information. I bet most guys don't know about that and are going crazy trying to figure out why their pedal has so much travel. Thanks for sharing. Keep on a Rock'n an a Roll'n.🎸🤘👍👍
It drove me crazy for about a week until I finally figured it out!!! But now I know how to fix it and so do you as well!!! Thanks for watching and Keep Rocking!!!
I have same issues in my 1976 Camaro rear disc conversion. I’ve tried everything and only thing helped breaking was changing booster push pin length, but i couldn’t find an adjustable one to fit. Had lots lock up issues testing so i put the solid one the booster came with back in. I think this will give me more control over breaking anyway but it looks like same idea. Pushing pin in further to engage the front and rear of the master cylinder. Fingers crossed 😂
So true!!! But this was a pedal pivot problem that needed solved!!! All is well now and the car stops properly!!! Thanks for watching and Keep Rocking!!!
That's the way it goes with aftermarket stuff, You're gonna have to make adjustments to get it to work right. That's a good looking car, bet it rides good too!
Yeah it's a Heavy Chevy and it Floats like a Boat down the road!!! Will Drive better once I get the front end back in alignment!!! Thanks for watching and Keep Rocking!!!
Just did a four wheel disc brake conversion from four wheel drums. Have disc master, combo valve. Pedal is super soft, not to the floor though, when bleeding light pressure at the bleeders. I’m going to try this.
I've been thinking about changing the back drum brakes on our 38 Chevy couple to disc. The front are already disc but I was leery on if something would totally change with how the pedal feels. I had rebuilt the whole brake system before and had some troubles ( long story) but everything works fine now. Just don't want to open a can of worms by trying to make something better. There is a lot of science to brake systems. Kind of interested.
Will this work with any car? I have a 1966 ford falcon that I did the disk brake conversion for. My problem is that the brake pedal is too sensitive and feels like it’s always on. Like my car feels slower
Try loosing the rod adjustment between the booster and the master cylinder!!! It may be too long and is keeping the brakes applied!!! Hope that helps!!! Thanks for Watching and Keep Rocking!!!
Emanuel my pops and i just finished a front disk break conversation and the kit i bought came with a new master cylinder. The new m cylinder has two chambers which is one for the front and one for the rear brakes.
Hi, I converted my manual drum brakes to (YJ) power disc brakes on my 76 cj7 jeep. I noticed the piston rod was slightly longer on the disc brakes than the drums. So lowered my pedal to allow the extra length. After converting to disc, I now I have soft brakes. I bled the system 4 plus times. Don't think there's any air. But I didn't bench bleed the mc. And the pedal hardens up after I pump the brakes. I read I could adjust the piston rod in the booster. Any Idea On how to fix it? Thanks for the video.
Hi CJ7 girl, I explain how to fix this problem in this video!!! You need to lower the push rod on the pedal so you get a longer stroke of the push rod!!! Rewatch the video and see how I had to drill another hole in the pedal so I could increase the stroke!!! By increasing the stroke, you move more fluid!!! When you go from drum to disk the fluid needed goes up!!! The drum wheel cylinders don't hold a lot of fluid!!! But the new calipers do hold more!!! That's why you need to move more fluid!!! Like I said just increase your stroke and your problem will be solved!!! Hope you get it fixed!!!! I like pie and cookies!!!! Thanks for Watching And Keep Rocking!!!!
@@rockerpat1085 Hmm. Wasn't sure if it would apply to my vehicle too. Thanks. Perhaps you can drill one for me? 😏 Would 1" down from original hole work too? I'll try it. And let ya know if it works.
@@rockerpat1085 Hey Rocker Pat, before I crawl under my dash 😂 , I read I might be able to lengthen the rod in the booster slightly to get a harder pedal. Have you heard of this? Also, a local auto shop suggested I need a residual value to hold some pressure on the brakes slightly. However, I have a proportion valve that came with the yj booster. What is your experience if any with the residual valves?
@@rockerpat1085 Did a rear disk conversion on a 1975 Ford Econoline. Pedal is soft and goes low (not to the floor) at first but gets firmer the more you brake. Calipers are not upside down, brake lines have been bled and bled multiple times (might be the proportioning valve mistakenly bought the wrong one... gonna replace soon) Gonna replace the front calipers too in case they are sticking... Just looking at different avenues thanks for the response...
@@StrongManMattt I think what you need to do is replace the master cylinder with one that is for Disk-Disk!!! I don't think you are moving enough fluid!!! Try a Master cylinder from a truck that had Disk-Disk like an Expedition!!! Or even a Mustang!!! The Master Cylinder you have has a piston that is too small for rear disk!!!! It may be a 1" piston and you may need one with a 1.25" piston or larger!!!! The proportion valve has nothing to do with your problem I believe!!!! Try another master cylinder and get back with me and let me know how it works out for you!!!! Good luck to you and as always, Keep Rocking it out!!!!
![“อ.เบียร์ คนตื่นธรรม” มาตามคำเรียกร้อง แหกศาสตร์ฮวงจุ้ย เตือนสติอย่างมงาย | แฉ 7 พ.ย. 67 [1/3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5fc4S3xBNfc/mqdefault.jpg)
All of those imported brake kits, are sorely lacking, clear instructions 👍
Oh they come with instructions? We don't need no stinking instructions!!! Lol!!!
Thanks for watching and Keep Rocking!!!
For all the people who argued with the OP you don't need 6:1 ratio for manual brakes you need ~4:1 for power brakes. You achieve that by lowering the piston on the pedal exactly as the op said. There's a formula for it in fact - just google. And you get a shorter pedal throw in the process. But also check your push rod able to your master cylinder. Too much of an angle and you create other problems - the push rod is supposed to be with 5 degrees of perpendicular to the pedal or something like that. This is why lots of GM cars have tilted master cylinders! Thanks for the video Rocker Pat!
Thanks Pat, I’ve been messin with a 4 wheel power disc conversion on my 65 C10 for a while now, never could get a decent pedal till I found this video.
Did you get it fixed?
Thanks for Watching And Keep Rocking!!!
Hey Pat. That is very good information. I bet most guys don't know about that and are going crazy trying to figure out why their pedal has so much travel. Thanks for sharing. Keep on a Rock'n an a Roll'n.🎸🤘👍👍
It drove me crazy for about a week until I finally figured it out!!! But now I know how to fix it and so do you as well!!!
Thanks for watching and Keep Rocking!!!
@@rockerpat1085 Good morning Pat. I saved this video in my watch later folder. I know I will need it some year. Thanks, Pat.
@@rockerpat1085 It didn't surprise me that you figured it out. You are the CAR GURU.👍🤘🎸
good tip pat most people would not think of the different stroke length
Yeah Allan I was one of those people until I figured it out!!!
Thanks for watching and Keep Rocking!!!
Just a little makes a big difference. Good work Pat
I know, doesn't take much and it's so much better!!!
Thanks for watching and Keep Rocking!!!
I have same issues in my 1976 Camaro rear disc conversion. I’ve tried everything and only thing helped breaking was changing booster push pin length, but i couldn’t find an adjustable one to fit. Had lots lock up issues testing so i put the solid one the booster came with back in. I think this will give me more control over breaking anyway but it looks like same idea. Pushing pin in further to engage the front and rear of the master cylinder. Fingers crossed 😂
Folks need to make sure the rears are properly bled and adjusted well also ! You can lose a fair bit of pedal that way too... Great days to ya Pat !
So true!!! But this was a pedal pivot problem that needed solved!!! All is well now and the car stops properly!!!
Thanks for watching and Keep Rocking!!!
That's the way it goes with aftermarket stuff, You're gonna have to make adjustments to get it to work right. That's a good looking car, bet it rides good too!
Yeah it's a Heavy Chevy and it Floats like a Boat down the road!!!
Will Drive better once I get the front end back in alignment!!!
Thanks for watching and Keep Rocking!!!
Thanks for the hints Pat.
Anytime Ron!!! Kind of thing that should be shared!!!
Thanks for watching and Keep Rocking!!!
Just did a four wheel disc brake conversion from four wheel drums. Have disc master, combo valve. Pedal is super soft, not to the floor though, when bleeding light pressure at the bleeders. I’m going to try this.
Update, clevis was already in the lower hole, prop valve shuttle is centered.
Did pedal ratio math. 11.5 long pedal, bottom hole is at 3.25 and top hole is at 1.750. Top hole is optimal ratio, softer pedal yet.
Thank you very much...i have that problem sir
Really Really usefull wee video pat, thanks.
The kind of information that a man can lose hair over!!! Now you have it and your hair too!!!
Thanks for watching and Keep Rocking!!!
I've been thinking about changing the back drum brakes on our 38 Chevy couple to disc. The front are already disc but I was leery on if something would totally change with how the pedal feels. I had rebuilt the whole brake system before and had some troubles ( long story) but everything works fine now. Just don't want to open a can of worms by trying to make something better. There is a lot of science to brake systems. Kind of interested.
Ain't broke, don't "Fix" it!!! Better to just leave it alone!!!
Thanks for watching and Keep Rocking!!!
@@rockerpat1085 10-4
Will this work with any car? I have a 1966 ford falcon that I did the disk brake conversion for. My problem is that the brake pedal is too sensitive and feels like it’s always on. Like my car feels slower
Try loosing the rod adjustment between the booster and the master cylinder!!! It may be too long and is keeping the brakes applied!!!
Hope that helps!!!
Thanks for Watching and Keep Rocking!!!
@@rockerpat1085 thank you, I’ll go ahead and try it!
@@rockerpat1085 I have my original master cylinder, will I have to get an aftermarket one or will it still work the same?
Emanuel my pops and i just finished a front disk break conversation and the kit i bought came with a new master cylinder. The new m cylinder has two chambers which is one for the front and one for the rear brakes.
Hi, I converted my manual drum brakes to (YJ) power disc brakes on my 76 cj7 jeep. I noticed the piston rod was slightly longer on the disc brakes than the drums. So lowered my pedal to allow the extra length. After converting to disc, I now I have soft brakes. I bled the system 4 plus times. Don't think there's any air. But I didn't bench bleed the mc. And the pedal hardens up after I pump the brakes. I read I could adjust the piston rod in the booster. Any Idea On how to fix it? Thanks for the video.
Hi CJ7 girl, I explain how to fix this problem in this video!!!
You need to lower the push rod on the pedal so you get a longer stroke of the push rod!!!
Rewatch the video and see how I had to drill another hole in the pedal so I could increase the stroke!!!
By increasing the stroke, you move more fluid!!!
When you go from drum to disk the fluid needed goes up!!!
The drum wheel cylinders don't hold a lot of fluid!!! But the new calipers do hold more!!!
That's why you need to move more fluid!!!
Like I said just increase your stroke and your problem will be solved!!!
Hope you get it fixed!!!! I like pie and cookies!!!!
Thanks for Watching And Keep Rocking!!!!
@@rockerpat1085 Hmm. Wasn't sure if it would apply to my vehicle too. Thanks. Perhaps you can drill one for me? 😏 Would 1" down from original hole work too? I'll try it. And let ya know if it works.
@@rockerpat1085 Hey Rocker Pat, before I crawl under my dash 😂 , I read I might be able to lengthen the rod in the booster slightly to get a harder pedal. Have you heard of this?
Also, a local auto shop suggested I need a residual value to hold some pressure on the brakes slightly. However, I have a proportion valve that came with the yj booster. What is your experience if any with the residual valves?
@@cj7girl280 ok I've already said what you need to do!!!
Take my advice or don't take it!!!!
@@rockerpat1085 OK. Will do. Just wanted to confirm before doing it. Thanks for your help. God bless! 😇
What do you do if the brake pedal doesn't have enough pedal to drill a hole lower on it? 😥😣😟😩
Good tip.
Thanks Scott!!!
Keep Rocking it out Brother!!!
what if your having this problem with a rear disk conversion?
You are going to have to give me more information!!!
What kind of car? What have you done?
@@rockerpat1085 Did a rear disk conversion on a 1975 Ford Econoline. Pedal is soft and goes low (not to the floor) at first but gets firmer the more you brake. Calipers are not upside down, brake lines have been bled and bled multiple times (might be the proportioning valve mistakenly bought the wrong one... gonna replace soon) Gonna replace the front calipers too in case they are sticking... Just looking at different avenues thanks for the response...
@@StrongManMattt I think what you need to do is replace the master cylinder with one that is for Disk-Disk!!! I don't think you are moving enough fluid!!! Try a Master cylinder from a truck that had Disk-Disk like an Expedition!!! Or even a Mustang!!!
The Master Cylinder you have has a piston that is too small for rear disk!!!! It may be a 1" piston and you may need one with a 1.25" piston or larger!!!!
The proportion valve has nothing to do with your problem I believe!!!!
Try another master cylinder and get back with me and let me know how it works out for you!!!!
Good luck to you and as always,
Keep Rocking it out!!!!
@@rockerpat1085 10-4 thanks for the response.
@@rockerpat1085 seems like it was the front caliper, it seized up... replaced it and seems to have been the culprit thanks for the info and help.
Yep I've encountered the same.
First time is always the worst!!!s
Thanks for watching and Keep Rocking!!!
Dam it that sounds about right so I need to remound my booster so it lines up to a new hole #@$#&+/$#@