That button looking thing on the left is not a reset button. Which is why you could not press it. It is the stem on the front metering valve. It needs some ware to go when it opens up allowing full line pressure in the front. When the breaks are not applied the valve closes off again, and it retracts back into the body of the combo valve. This is why it has the black rubber cap over it. Just to keep it clean while in operation. The proper way to reset the switch is to open the opposite side some while someone presses the brake pedal and holds. Then tighten that brake line. If it has been in use for years you may need to apply the brakes in sharp rapid manner. If that doesn't work, it is stuck. Disassembly and replacement of the shuttle's O rings is the solution at that point. As they have hardened, reducing it's ability to move. It can be accessed by unscrewing the rear fixed orifice metering valve on the right side (not the front metering valve on the left)
Well there you have it. That makes sense that it's the metering valve. I did go over the proper way to reset the valve by bleeding the opposite side, but I find it much easier to just re-center the valve from the sensor port.
@@dull_boy_274 no. It's part of the piston for the front metering valve, and is not physicaly connected to the shuttle valve. It helps keeps the front brakes from being fully applied before the rears. Stopping it from moving would disable the mettering valve in the closed position. Which would render your front brake useless. Near the top ware the front brake line connects is a small passage that leads to the shuttle valve. This serves as a signal circuit, providing preasure to the front brake side of the shuttle valve. Then the shuttle valve. Which when one side losses preasure it moves to one side lighting the break light, and blocking off the failed side from the other side. Which prevents the functioning side from losing break fluid. To the right of that is the fixed orifice variable preasure valve if you have rear drum brakes. Which has a similar "signal passage" as the front brakes. This helps the rear brakes apply at roughly the same time as the front brakes. Preventing sliding if the front or rear locks before the other. Rendering any part of the assembly inoperable will create unsafe breaking conditions. If you need the valve to not move while you are bleeding the breakes, there's an inexpensive tool that will do this (available on amazon and many other places). You remove the break light switch, and hand tighten the tool in it's place. When you are done you replace the break light switch. Leaving it place will allow the entire brake system to fail if one side losses preasure. So it's important to not disable any part of the combo valve.
@@williamallen7836 you Sir, saved me a lot of time looking for answers. I wish I could buy you a 🍺. I was able to get the stuck shuttle valve to move back to center but every time I bled the brakes it would close again. I'll find that tool and try again. I really appreciate the explanation. Everyday is a school day
Say Bro i just followed your instructions to the T...... and i have owned this truck for 8 years and i have never had brake pressure(stopping power) like i got now...Man you are the Koolest Thanx.
Thanks for the video! I was working on my 1997 dodge ram 2500 4WD. Lost a rear wheel cylinder a few months back. Rebuilt the brakes and bled them. Been trying to figure out why my ABS and BRAKE light were always on but would go off with out 30% pressure on the brake pedal. Chased it thinking it was are in the line for a long time. Reading through the FSM, it mentions the proportioning valve getting tripped with a loss of pressure front or rear but did not explain how to reset it. I tested the switch and verified it was grounded. I also turned on the ignition while the switch was unplugged to verify the lights turned off. They did. When I pulled the rubber cap off the front of the block, the stem was sticking out. I centered it and verified by checking ground. All good now! Thanks!
This was the best video I’ve seen yet I have a 78 Chevy k5. I did a disc conversion on The back. Not too long ago I replaced my master cylinder not even thinking of that conversion your video was self-explanatory. Thank you.
My brake kit wasn’t supplies with this and couldn’t figure why I had not front brakes my rear would skid upon stopping quickly. Thanks for the video,very helpful 🤙
Wow. I'm doing a complete brakes system replacement on a 1986 Holiday Rambler motorhome, disc, disc. This info really helps. A later comment says that old hard o rings can be replaced to loosen a stuck valve. Thanks to all contributors.
I converted 3 drum braked Chevrolet trucks to front disc brakes, I never put the proportioning valve in them they worked GREAT. My last was a 71 , it always gave me problems until I put a block from an earlier truck. I’m learning about how they work on my later 80’s & Mid 90’s trucks. Great Video, I’m for sure getting one of these tools. 👍
I bought a booster, master and prop valve combo from summit. Thankfully my brakes bled easily and the instructions never mentioned what that white plastic thing was. Now I know 😉👍
Thanks, was pulling fluid from my system to remove the old fluid and wala I was not able to draw any more. Quickly deduced that something blocked the flow of the fluid, now I know and have the fix. Thanks for the tool recommendation and how to fix. PS, early model Chevy disk brake conversion...
The flexible rubber brake lines can collapse internally and act like a one way valve. I had one do that, it looked ok from the outside, it would not let the caliper release. An experienced mechanic told me about the problem.
I did the front disk on my 55 Chevy, later my son did the rear "the 4 wheel disk" and could not get the back brakes to work, put a hand adjustable valve in the line going to the back wheel disc... I now see where the problem is, thanks! Finally get my back brakes back on my 55!
Worth noting. When you go from front disc to 4 wheel disc, you need a different proportional valve because the one for rear drums uses a residual valve and disc doesn’t.
Slick, my 83 camaro I swapped to disc / disc from disc / drum, and it started out really good, stopped better than ever however, over time I have been loosing my rear brakes I think this may be the answer. At least till I can replace the master, and proportioning valve to a disc / disc unit. My problem is, the later camaro's that had disc / disc, went to metric threads and my 83 is SAE, so I have an extra twist. Thanks so much!
I alway thought mine was stuck with dirt thanks my friend has a 79 chevy getting rebuild we couldnt blees the brakes he took a mechanic and told him it had to be of the jack stands to work better he had no idea that the valve is the problem cant wait to tell my friend that we can fix it
The "normal" way to reset these is to depress the brake pedal with a lot of force for a few seconds, and then let it return to normal. The brake pressure from both circuits in the master cylinder will usually re-center the shuttle. That pin on the end is only an indicator.
To stop faster I have used a larger master cylinder like in the older chevy truck 1/2ton to a 3/4 ton master cylinder. If one goes too larger it's harder to stop without brake booster/engine not running one has to use both feet to stop it.
I just ran into this issue. I did 4 wheel disk conversion on my 75 malibu. Went to bleed the rear and zero fluid came out. I thought I maybe bought the wrong master cylinder, or something couldnt figure it out. Called a local brake shop in dallas for some help and the guy immediately told me about this and the solution. Guy said to try this before I send it to a shop. I always trust but verify. Took the valve off and sure enough it needs to be reset. Just to make sure I understood completely I came here to also verify. Waiting in the tool to get here now. I 6.0 swapped the car 6 years ago and never even got the chance to drive it. That's how long I've had brake issues and other projects. Hopefully this is the end of my brake adventure tho and I'll get to finally drive her soon
I have front disc and rear drum conversion. I have so much pressure now that all of my brakes are Dragging. I wonder if this could be my issue? My brakes were so hot that my wheels were sizzling when I sprayed water on them.
Thank you for this video I'm just understanding the proportioning valve function, And mine just started to leak out fluid from the front reset screw as I apply the brake, so I did a brake check on the front disk brakes and the rear drums and noticed that my right rear drum is leaking, I haven't taken the drop off to inspect it but my guess that's what might have tripped the proportioning valve? What's your input on this?
Isn't the "shuttle valve" the "pressure imbalance switch". If the front and rear circuits don't have the same pressure (from Master Cylinder), it will ground the switch to light the dash brake warning light. In earlier front drum brake cars, that was the only function of the brake block besides acting as a distribution block. In later front disk cars (1973+), they added a rear proportioning valve and a front metering valve (holds off front disks until rear drum shoes touch) and term it "combination valve".
Before I start bleeding the system I replaced the proportion Valve and added the plastic tool where the sensor goes and connected every brake line back on the proportion valve and starting to bleed the rear passenger side and work my way to the front but no fluid came out in the rear passenger…so I stop and question it … what did I do wrong ??? Working on a 1985 Ford F-150 4x4
A proportioning valve reduces the pressure in the hydraulic lines to the rear brakes relative to that supplied to the front brakes during heavy braking.
Your video is helpful but i have distribution block on my 1972 corvette. car did not come with prop valve though some call it by that name. i bought a new block from inlinetube yesterday. i asked for the tool to keep valve centered and was told they dblock doesnt use a tool. How do i bleed appropriately without the centering tool? Pops
What if you leave that tool in there you get proportion restriction from for 2 lb of the front and 10 in the rear and add into the line could you leave that tool in there and not leak fluid
Nope. The proportioning valve doesn’t need to change, however, if you find it’s braking too much on the front or rear brakes, you might consider an adjustable proportioning valve.
I have a 1989 GMC Jimmy, and I’m assuming it still has the original proportioning valve in it, could it be time to change it? I just replaced the front hoses and the truck wants to pull to the right when i step on the brakes, and it just doesn’t stop that good in my opinion… i think it should stop better than it does. Any suggestions???
@@mechtrician1 I don’t think so because with both calipers off, the left one moved first and more freely than the right. And all 4 pads are worn evenly, so what about air in the line???
Not much else can cause it to do what you're describing unless the lines are hooked up wrong. If someone hooked each the left and right front calipers up to the front and rear ports of the prop valve, then it will definitely brake unevenly. The pad wear doesn't mean anything if it sat for any period of time. Calipers freeze up from sitting. Air in the line will make it all just feel spongy and not have much pedal, it won't pull.
Not a brake issue at all!!! The truck was lifted and does not have the extended pitman arm, so the drag link is at an extreme angle causing the truck to want to veer to the right when it nose dive under braking! New pitman arm ordered
I have a 87 Gran Fury. I have this problem with the valve. I'm not getting full pedal. I push the pedal hard almost to the floor and the wheels do lock up and the back don't. I do notice that the pin on front of the valve stays out and the brake light is on. I took the switch out and replaced it with a new switch and still stays on. I have done a complete over haul from the front to the back accept front brake calipers in which they are fine. I wish that i know about the screw In holding pin after removing the switch. The pin stays out. I tried different ways of trying to get the pin back in. I did notice a little bit of brake fluid on the bottom of the valve when took out the switch. Can I loosen up the lines on valve and tap the pin back in or is it useless now because of being stuck out now. Thanks
I just installed a CPP power brake conversion on my 70 C10 and the prop valve is leaking where the 9/16 18 inverted flare adapter threads into the rear. Very aggravating. Waiting for their tech support to call me back.
Technically what you are describing is the pressure differential valve not a proportioning valve. There are three distinct parts of the valve. A proportioning valve, metering valve and pressure differential valve. The block itself is called a combination valve to be accurate. Not trying to nitpick but to truly understand its function you need to understand all three parts and what they are there to accomplish. The metering function is what is necessary when you do a disc/drum conversion. It holds off the pressure to the disc to let the drum brakes start to engage since they require slightly more fluid to expand the shoes. The proportioning valve is only required in panic stops to keep the rear brakes from locking up causing a very bad situation in which your car could actually spin out. The pressure differential valve is for safety as you said in the video if you experience a brake line failure or wheel cylinder failure. This just for clarification not to criticize. For some reason many people tend to only refer to this as a proportioning valve and not a combination valve.
Actually you have the metering part and fluid part confused/wrong, the valve reduces the pressure to the rear, disc brakes require more pressure than drum brakes and also requires more fluid as the pad's wear that's why the front bowl of the MC is larger for the disc side of the circuit. The rest of it looks good though. Most people don't know that drum brakes actually stop better than disc, shoes wear less than pads I'm not sure why the trend to install discs on the front in place of drums my guess is it's trendy the only real upside is you don't have to adjust disc brakes like you do periodically shoes.
Working on a 78 chev k20 just replaced my front brakes, rotors, and calibers. Truck is off I go bleed just the front I have fluid coming in. Helper says pedal is getting firmer as it should. Do both sides. Go to start the truck and no brakes. Any idea.
Awesome video. I'm doing the disc brakes at the moment and I'm about to bleed my brakes. So that tool came with the kit but didn't know what was it for since the instructions aren't very well instructed. Once done and install back the switch where do you connect the 2 wire harness that comes with that switch?
I got a 79 f150 with the same setup on the front cross member. The proportion valve two wires that come off the top should go into the wire harness on the left frame rail. That is where my wire comes from.
Good morning all; I see that many people have problems with their brakes! Mine is quite atipical! My vehicle brakes normally for about 10 pedal strokes and at the end of the 11th, the pedal goes to the floor .. and no more brakes !!! The red light of the valve lights up on the dashboard. I have to pump with the pedal several times before finding the braking. I replaced the master cylinder, the internal joints of the brake calipers, the rear wheel cylinders with the segments, the central rear brake flexible and the rigid brakes. I was able to bleed the front/rear circuit without any particular difficulties. The problem remains the same .... I go crazy! It was by looking on the net that I found this interesting video post. Do you think that the proportional valve can be the origin of the problem!? My vehicle is a Ford model A Streetrod with discs at the front, booster, and drums in the back. Thank you for your help. (Jef France)
Great video I’m dealing with a blocked LF port on my 1980 Mustang front disc rear drum. How do I clear out/reset a LF metering valve side? All other sides bleed including RF but no fluid to LF caliper at all. I tried blowing air into front input but no go. Brake light not tripped.
I’m actually not familiar with the braking system in your mustang. You sure it’s not a bad caliper? I would think the right and left are common pressure with no valve in between.
Have a serious brake issue and wondering if this could be my problem. I have an '83 T-Type Grand National that I'm doing a LS swap in, it has a hydra-boost system in it. Newly rebuilt booster, new power steering pump and master cylinder. Spent over 5 hrs today trying to bleed the booster and SP with no luck. I did over 120 iterations with the steering wheel going to the left and right 5 times and then pumping the brakes 3 times trying to bleed the system. I believe the steering is good but I have no brake pedal. I converted the rear drum brakes over to disc brakes (2000 Camaro) and was thinking this issue here may have something to do with it. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
good video. I have a question, and I know this is an older post. I have a Jeep Wrangler (TJ) disk, drum. When I start the Jeep and step on the brakes a couple times, it take about 30 minutes of sitting before the rear brakes fully release from the drums. (might do this on the front too, I haven't checked). While driving and braking, I noticed loss of power after a mile (because the engine is struggling with the rear brakes holding the wheels from freely rotating.) Before I start throwing money at everything (it has new rear brakes, drums and hardware), would you lean toward this being a Proportioning Valve or Master Cylinder issue. (both rears do this and I can test that its brakes, by disconnecting drive shaft and rotating rear tires.) I have never heard of this valve before until researching this issue.
I’d say it is the rear drum(s) area. The spring’s job is to pull away both primary and secondary brake shoes away from the drum. The pushing the pedal send fluid into the wheel cylinders to push the two pins into the top of the shoes. This puts brake pressure on the drum. Plus make sure the install of the shoes when putting the drum(s) are set correctly. Set correctly is having the ability to just barely install the drum without any dragging against the shoes. After that the final adjustment is when you back up and the shoes are adjusted by the star adjuster. Hope it works for you.
Thanks for the video. Hmm. I purchased a aftermarket complete brake booster kit with proportion valve and I get fluid from all bleeder screws except for the left rear line. Would I do the same solution as you demonstrated? Or is there something else? Also, the drum brake reservoir on the master cylinder doesn't "bubble" when I bench bled the mc...the front on did. Is that a bad thing? Also the proportion valve is new and has a built in a adjustable valve as I converted from manual front drum brakes to power disc brakes. Thanks for your help. 🙆
Probably not a proportioning valve issue if you don't get fluid from only one cylinder. There is probably an issue with the cylinder itself. For the master, if it was new when you bled it, I would have expected bubbles. Sometimes they can be a real bugger to get the air out of them.
I have a 69 c10 I installed a conversion kit with a valve just like that. My front brakes will not release after pressing them about five times and the only way they release is loosing the line back to the master cylinder. I’m only using one port for both front brake and tee them off, could that be the problem?
This is exactly the issue that I am having now. I had rear drums on and then converted to discs. Now the rear brakes basically don't brake.. It must be this valve? Can you adjust them or do you have to buy one that is made specifically for disc brakes?
@@Zapo9668 no, they are pretty much the same thing. Technically what I show in the video is a combination valve. Drum only systems just have a distribution block. Otherwise you have a proportional valve/combination valve.
@@mechtrician1 OK thank you for this, that is very informative. Would you agree that if one fitted substrianly larger rear calipres ( more than double the size) the stock combination valve would essentially act as if there is a fault in the rear, and it will send fluid to the front, therefore limiting the rear breaks to almost no breaking?
Towards the rear of the proportion vault that peace that's screws in with a little black rubber looks like release Vale what is it for and why would it leak out break fluid out of there
Hi I like your video I have a 1992 GMC Sierra 3500 utility body truck a year ago I had my brakes redone rotors in the front drums in the back as time went on I noticed my brake level in my reservoir was low so I refilled it about six months after that I want to change my front pads and forgotten that I had done that as I was pressing the cups in the fluid overtopped the reservoir popping It Off when I got everything fixed pads back on the front I kept getting a warning brake warning light constant on the truck and I believe that the proportioning valve read a loss of pressure cutting off the front brakes if I push in that button on the front of the proportioning valve does that reset the slide valve inside the proportioning unit I have the little rubber grommet that you took off on the front and on the back of my proportioning valve I just pushed in on the front one and it clicked the rear one I cannot feel with my feeler gauge the truck the truck dive to the front now whenever I apply the brakes so I have a feeling that I'm not getting juice to the front any advice is helpful thank you
what setup did you go to for 4 wheels dic brakes. i have this valve on my truck w 4 wheel disc brakes after taking off the rear drums and just cant seem to get the brakes to feel how i want them to feel.
There are 2 valves. Disc/drum and disc/disc. If you had disc/drum, you need to replace it with a disc/disc prop valve. The residual valve on the drum one will cause problems.
hmmm, wonder if you are out there. You seem to be quite knowledgeable about these things. I have a 72 Dodge Campion Motorhome. It has all wheel drum brakes and has the exact proportion valve you show (Thought you said drum brakes would not have one of these?). This vehicle sat since 2007. Was given to me in 2021. :) There are no working brakes on it at all...the e-brake would probably work if I adjusted it but not sure how. :) I will cross that bridge when I get there. When I got the master cylinder was dry and empty. I filled with fluid, pumped the brakes, of course nothing. I have since bench bled a new master and installed. After installation of the rear reservoir 1/2 nut line, and the forward reservoir 9/16 nut line I tried to bleed the lines as they entered the master as I was instructed. Pushed the brakes a few times, held down brake pedal and loosened 1/2" line...brake fluid/air shot out just as I wanted. Remember, bench bleed kit was bought with associated hoses and air and fluid came out of both reservoirs, through the hoses and back to the reservoirs until all air was out. Now, fast forward to the front reservoir, holding brake and losen nut and nothing happens, no air, no fluid. I would have thought since I'm at the outlet of the front reservoir and loosening the line with brake pedal pressure that fluid would have shot out. But it did not. An attempt to gravity bleed the brakes at all wheels...even with 25psi of vacuum applied to the brake bleeds had zero fluid making it to any of the 4 wheel cylinders. Can you let me some of your advice as to where I need to go from here? I'm at the point where I want to remove/bleed or whatever each line independent of the master and or see that they are open. BUT, I'm not so sure the pro valve is the issue as if it were shuttled one wat or the other, I would have brakes in the front or back. I do not. Tks
It's not necessary to replace the valve if you know the master is bad unless the valve has obvious signs of corrosion or other issues. You don't need to bench bleed the valve like you do the master, it doesn't get air trapped in it the same way.
@@mechtrician1 to be honest I'm not quite sure still looking for the smoking gun the brakes were fine one day the next they were not rear reservoir was bone dry and the front was full checked for and leaks and couldn't find anything. I did pour some fluid in the rear and pumped it and got some pressure back and limped it home and checked for leaks so far nada I guess ill start with a bench bleed just don't know where to go from there. 76 camaro discs front drums rear
Sir, thank you for posting this video, much appreciated. I am having this problem with my 93 S10. Prop valve is currently removed. Are you saying I can use an awl or similar, and just slide it back to the center?
By chance are you getting any fluid coming to your rear brakes? My 91 S10 will not get any fluid to the rear. Front bleeds and flows fine. I’ve replaced proportioning valve and master cylinder. Have bled and bled and same problem since the start. I’ve bled every line and fitting numerous times, and no matter what I can get fluid flowing through the prop valve but none flowing out of the abs hydraulic switch on the side where the main rear brake line hooks up.
@@corkelfurg Rears work well, just the front. For me, the shuttle valve inside the combo valve tripped to one side when I disconnected the front brake hoses. Wish I had seen this video before I started the brake job.
Today is the day I found out why the brakes on my El Camino never felt quite like they should... They are corrected now that I know what I've been missing in my bleeding process
Well small leak in the middle Line to the rear and kept shuttling to no flow tot he rear and I gotta fix leak first I guess then tool went in place but still no flow weird
If the pin is always making contact then the brake light will always be on. With the shuttle valve in the middle allowing flow to the front and rear, the pin will not make contact.
@@gotj maybe I’m not understanding what you’re saying, but quite simply when the valve is not tripped, the switch pin is not making contact and the valve is centered. When the valve is tripped, the pin is touching the shuttle valve and grounded. This switch that I have doesn’t have a contact in it. Maybe some of them do though.
@@mechtrician1 check continuity with a tester, there's no continuity from the pin to the electrical connector unless you push it in which is what turns the switch that's inside, on.
@@gotj so I have 3 switches laying around I just checked. 2 of them do in fact have a switch in them but one is on all the time. It’s probably bad. That explains why I thought the switch was the actual valve contact. So you are correct. I just assumed the contact was the switch because I checked a switch before and there was always continuity.
Bought this so I could bleed my brakes without tripping the valve. Once I’m done bleeding, can you install the original switch in the proportional valve without letting air in?
Yes absolutely. The switch port does not enter the hydraulic circuit anywhere. It’s isolated. And yes you definitely do not want to leave the tool in there once you’re done bleeding.
Hey man it’s, ummm, not as easy as it seems. Nothing is scripted so I have to think when I speak to make sure the right info gets out there. Good trick is to play back the videos at 1.5x speed 😉
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That button looking thing on the left is not a reset button. Which is why you could not press it. It is the stem on the front metering valve. It needs some ware to go when it opens up allowing full line pressure in the front. When the breaks are not applied the valve closes off again, and it retracts back into the body of the combo valve. This is why it has the black rubber cap over it. Just to keep it clean while in operation.
The proper way to reset the switch is to open the opposite side some while someone presses the brake pedal and holds. Then tighten that brake line. If it has been in use for years you may need to apply the brakes in sharp rapid manner. If that doesn't work, it is stuck. Disassembly and replacement of the shuttle's O rings is the solution at that point. As they have hardened, reducing it's ability to move. It can be accessed by unscrewing the rear fixed orifice metering valve on the right side (not the front metering valve on the left)
Well there you have it. That makes sense that it's the metering valve. I did go over the proper way to reset the valve by bleeding the opposite side, but I find it much easier to just re-center the valve from the sensor port.
Just did this on my 2000 TJ.
Thanks.
Only in 🇺🇸.
💪
So if we block that pin from coming out, will the shuttle valve be stuck in the center position?
@@dull_boy_274 no. It's part of the piston for the front metering valve, and is not physicaly connected to the shuttle valve. It helps keeps the front brakes from being fully applied before the rears. Stopping it from moving would disable the mettering valve in the closed position. Which would render your front brake useless. Near the top ware the front brake line connects is a small passage that leads to the shuttle valve. This serves as a signal circuit, providing preasure to the front brake side of the shuttle valve. Then the shuttle valve. Which when one side losses preasure it moves to one side lighting the break light, and blocking off the failed side from the other side. Which prevents the functioning side from losing break fluid. To the right of that is the fixed orifice variable preasure valve if you have rear drum brakes. Which has a similar "signal passage" as the front brakes. This helps the rear brakes apply at roughly the same time as the front brakes. Preventing sliding if the front or rear locks before the other. Rendering any part of the assembly inoperable will create unsafe breaking conditions. If you need the valve to not move while you are bleeding the breakes, there's an inexpensive tool that will do this (available on amazon and many other places). You remove the break light switch, and hand tighten the tool in it's place. When you are done you replace the break light switch. Leaving it place will allow the entire brake system to fail if one side losses preasure. So it's important to not disable any part of the combo valve.
@@williamallen7836 you Sir, saved me a lot of time looking for answers. I wish I could buy you a 🍺. I was able to get the stuck shuttle valve to move back to center but every time I bled the brakes it would close again. I'll find that tool and try again. I really appreciate the explanation. Everyday is a school day
Say Bro i just followed your instructions to the T...... and i have owned this truck for 8 years and i have never had brake pressure(stopping power) like i got now...Man you are the Koolest Thanx.
Thanks for the video! I was working on my 1997 dodge ram 2500 4WD. Lost a rear wheel cylinder a few months back. Rebuilt the brakes and bled them. Been trying to figure out why my ABS and BRAKE light were always on but would go off with out 30% pressure on the brake pedal. Chased it thinking it was are in the line for a long time. Reading through the FSM, it mentions the proportioning valve getting tripped with a loss of pressure front or rear but did not explain how to reset it. I tested the switch and verified it was grounded. I also turned on the ignition while the switch was unplugged to verify the lights turned off. They did. When I pulled the rubber cap off the front of the block, the stem was sticking out. I centered it and verified by checking ground. All good now! Thanks!
This was the best video I’ve seen yet I have a 78 Chevy k5. I did a disc conversion on The back. Not too long ago I replaced my master cylinder not even thinking of that conversion your video was self-explanatory. Thank you.
First and only vid I've seen on these valves. Well done. Thanks
My brake kit wasn’t supplies with this and couldn’t figure why I had not front brakes my rear would skid upon stopping quickly.
Thanks for the video,very helpful 🤙
Wow. I'm doing a complete brakes system replacement on a 1986 Holiday Rambler motorhome, disc, disc. This info really helps. A later comment says that old hard o rings can be replaced to loosen a stuck valve. Thanks to all contributors.
This helps me out so much. I thought I was going crazy today when I tried to bleed the brakes today
I converted 3 drum braked Chevrolet trucks to front disc brakes, I never put the proportioning valve in them they worked GREAT. My last was a 71 , it always gave me problems until I put a block from an earlier truck.
I’m learning about how they work on my later 80’s & Mid 90’s trucks. Great Video, I’m for sure getting one of these tools. 👍
I bought a booster, master and prop valve combo from summit. Thankfully my brakes bled easily and the instructions never mentioned what that white plastic thing was. Now I know 😉👍
Thanks, was pulling fluid from my system to remove the old fluid and wala I was not able to draw any more. Quickly deduced that something blocked the flow of the fluid, now I know and have the fix. Thanks for the tool recommendation and how to fix. PS, early model Chevy disk brake conversion...
The flexible rubber brake lines can collapse internally and act like a one way valve. I had one do that, it looked ok from the outside, it would not let the caliper release. An experienced mechanic told me about the problem.
I did the front disk on my 55 Chevy, later my son did the rear "the 4 wheel disk" and could not get the back brakes to work, put a hand adjustable valve in the line going to the back wheel disc... I now see where the problem is, thanks! Finally get my back brakes back on my 55!
Worth noting. When you go from front disc to 4 wheel disc, you need a different proportional valve because the one for rear drums uses a residual valve and disc doesn’t.
2 min in is when he actually starts talking about how to fix it
Thank you for that.
Thank you😂
Doing Odins work for us
Yeah, I absolutely hate when people talk about irrelevant stuff for what seems like an eternity before they actually get to the subject
👍
Slick, my 83 camaro I swapped to disc / disc from disc / drum, and it started out really good, stopped better than ever however, over time I have been loosing my rear brakes I think this may be the answer. At least till I can replace the master, and proportioning valve to a disc / disc unit. My problem is, the later camaro's that had disc / disc, went to metric threads and my 83 is SAE, so I have an extra twist. Thanks so much!
Swapping my Dentside to 4x4, this helped out a lot. Im using a hydroboost off an ‘02 7.3 and I couldnt figure out my brakes until now. Thank you
I alway thought mine was stuck with dirt thanks my friend has a 79 chevy getting rebuild we couldnt blees the brakes he took a mechanic and told him it had to be of the jack stands to work better he had no idea that the valve is the problem cant wait to tell my friend that we can fix it
The "normal" way to reset these is to depress the brake pedal with a lot of force for a few seconds, and then let it return to normal. The brake pressure from both circuits in the master cylinder will usually re-center the shuttle. That pin on the end is only an indicator.
I tried that and tried resetting the valve and nothing worked no fluid at all to rear
Same here. Not getting any fluid to the back brakes. 1982 olds cutlass g body
Very interesting video. Now I need this plastic tool. I just wonder why the instructions I have from p/n PVK72 do not mention this important detail.
will that cause to get more pressure on one wheel thank other? meaning one of the front ones or one of the rear?
To stop faster I have used a larger master cylinder like in the older chevy truck 1/2ton to a 3/4 ton master cylinder. If one goes too larger it's harder to stop without brake booster/engine not running one has to use both feet to stop it.
Finally, a simple explanation and fix!
I just ran into this issue. I did 4 wheel disk conversion on my 75 malibu. Went to bleed the rear and zero fluid came out. I thought I maybe bought the wrong master cylinder, or something couldnt figure it out. Called a local brake shop in dallas for some help and the guy immediately told me about this and the solution. Guy said to try this before I send it to a shop. I always trust but verify. Took the valve off and sure enough it needs to be reset. Just to make sure I understood completely I came here to also verify. Waiting in the tool to get here now. I 6.0 swapped the car 6 years ago and never even got the chance to drive it. That's how long I've had brake issues and other projects. Hopefully this is the end of my brake adventure tho and I'll get to finally drive her soon
What was the solution, valve replacement or were you able to center the valve
^ ?
@@hippitymcstribbs4906 my the valve tool that stops the valve from closing during bleeding. Cost like 5 bucks on Amazon
I have front disc and rear drum conversion. I have so much pressure now that all of my brakes are
Dragging. I wonder if this could be my issue? My brakes were so hot that my wheels were sizzling when I sprayed water on them.
Thank you for this video I'm just understanding the proportioning valve function,
And mine just started to leak out fluid from the front reset screw as I apply the brake, so I did a brake check on the front disk brakes and the rear drums and noticed that my right rear drum is leaking, I haven't taken the drop off to inspect it but my guess that's what might have tripped the proportioning valve? What's your input on this?
Isn't the "shuttle valve" the "pressure imbalance switch". If the front and rear circuits don't have the same pressure (from Master Cylinder), it will ground the switch to light the dash brake warning light. In earlier front drum brake cars, that was the only function of the brake block besides acting as a distribution block. In later front disk cars (1973+), they added a rear proportioning valve and a front metering valve (holds off front disks until rear drum shoes touch) and term it "combination valve".
I'm experiencing this exact issue. So I will attempt what you have proscribed. Do I need to bleed my brakes after my applying your fix? I think not.
Before I start bleeding the system I replaced the proportion Valve and added the plastic tool where the sensor goes and connected every brake line back on the proportion valve and starting to bleed the rear passenger side and work my way to the front but no fluid came out in the rear passenger…so I stop and question it … what did I do wrong ??? Working on a 1985 Ford F-150 4x4
A proportioning valve reduces the pressure in the hydraulic lines to the rear brakes relative to that supplied to the front brakes during heavy braking.
BRILLIANT! Thank you for the video😊
I will apply your fix. My guess is that no re-bleeding is needed after the fix and the original plug is installed . Is this correct?
Do you have to move the shuttle back in place with the valve off the truck? Can’t seem to get mine to move
No. It can be reset like I described in the vehicle. You can also reset it by bleeding the opposite side that’s tripped.
Mine is leaking from the valve, so is it the valve itself that's bad or is it the whole proportioning valve ?
hey thank you for taking the time to make this video very helpful
Your video is helpful but i have distribution block on my 1972 corvette. car did not come with prop valve though some call it by that name. i bought a new block from inlinetube yesterday. i asked for the tool to keep valve centered and was told they dblock doesnt use a tool. How do i bleed appropriately without the centering tool? Pops
Is the proportion valve block filled with brake fluid in the chamber/shuttle where the brake switch is?
No.
What if you leave that tool in there you get proportion restriction from for 2 lb of the front and 10 in the rear and add into the line could you leave that tool in there and not leak fluid
I have hydra boost on 2 of my rigs Should I be using a different proportional valve. Great video thanks
Nope. The proportioning valve doesn’t need to change, however, if you find it’s braking too much on the front or rear brakes, you might consider an adjustable proportioning valve.
Excellent explanation...Thank You!!
I have a 1989 GMC Jimmy, and I’m assuming it still has the original proportioning valve in it, could it be time to change it? I just replaced the front hoses and the truck wants to pull to the right when i step on the brakes, and it just doesn’t stop that good in my opinion… i think it should stop better than it does. Any suggestions???
Pulling on one side won’t be the proportioning valve. You must likely have a frozen left caliper.
@@mechtrician1 I don’t think so because with both calipers off, the left one moved first and more freely than the right. And all 4 pads are worn evenly, so what about air in the line???
Not much else can cause it to do what you're describing unless the lines are hooked up wrong. If someone hooked each the left and right front calipers up to the front and rear ports of the prop valve, then it will definitely brake unevenly. The pad wear doesn't mean anything if it sat for any period of time. Calipers freeze up from sitting. Air in the line will make it all just feel spongy and not have much pedal, it won't pull.
What was the solution?
Not a brake issue at all!!! The truck was lifted and does not have the extended pitman arm, so the drag link is at an extreme angle causing the truck to want to veer to the right when it nose dive under braking! New pitman arm ordered
Is there a way to bleed the brakes without the tool ? If I use a bleeder vacuum pump would it still trigger the value?
Yes you can use a vacuum bleeder.
@@mechtrician1 and that won't Trigger the valve .
@@luisrosas4769 nope.
@@mechtrician1 thank you so much
I have a 87 Gran Fury. I have this problem with the valve. I'm not getting full pedal. I push the pedal hard almost to the floor and the wheels do lock up and the back don't. I do notice that the pin on front of the valve stays out and the brake light is on. I took the switch out and replaced it with a new switch and still stays on. I have done a complete over haul from the front to the back accept front brake calipers in which they are fine. I wish that i know about the screw In holding pin after removing the switch. The pin stays out. I tried different ways of trying to get the pin back in. I did notice a little bit of brake fluid on the bottom of the valve when took out the switch. Can I loosen up the lines on valve and tap the pin back in or is it useless now because of being stuck out now. Thanks
I just installed a CPP power brake conversion on my 70 C10 and the prop valve is leaking where the 9/16 18 inverted flare adapter threads into the rear. Very aggravating. Waiting for their tech support to call me back.
Once you bleed the breaks, do you remove the tool and replace it with the original plastic "switch" or just leave the tool in the proportioning valve?
You absolutely have to remove the tool afterwards. Otherwise the valve wont trip which is a safety hazard. Put the switch back in.
Technically what you are describing is the pressure differential valve not a proportioning valve. There are three distinct parts of the valve. A proportioning valve, metering valve and pressure differential valve. The block itself is called a combination valve to be accurate. Not trying to nitpick but to truly understand its function you need to understand all three parts and what they are there to accomplish. The metering function is what is necessary when you do a disc/drum conversion. It holds off the pressure to the disc to let the drum brakes start to engage since they require slightly more fluid to expand the shoes. The proportioning valve is only required in panic stops to keep the rear brakes from locking up causing a very bad situation in which your car could actually spin out. The pressure differential valve is for safety as you said in the video if you experience a brake line failure or wheel cylinder failure. This just for clarification not to criticize. For some reason many people tend to only refer to this as a proportioning valve and not a combination valve.
Actually you have the metering part and fluid part confused/wrong, the valve reduces the pressure to the rear, disc brakes require more pressure than drum brakes and also requires more fluid as the pad's wear that's why the front bowl of the MC is larger for the disc side of the circuit. The rest of it looks good though. Most people don't know that drum brakes actually stop better than disc, shoes wear less than pads I'm not sure why the trend to install discs on the front in place of drums my guess is it's trendy the only real upside is you don't have to adjust disc brakes like you do periodically shoes.
Working on a 78 chev k20 just replaced my front brakes, rotors, and calibers. Truck is off I go bleed just the front I have fluid coming in. Helper says pedal is getting firmer as it should. Do both sides. Go to start the truck and no brakes. Any idea.
Awesome video. I'm doing the disc brakes at the moment and I'm about to bleed my brakes. So that tool came with the kit but didn't know what was it for since the instructions aren't very well instructed. Once done and install back the switch where do you connect the 2 wire harness that comes with that switch?
I got a 79 f150 with the same setup on the front cross member. The proportion valve two wires that come off the top should go into the wire harness on the left frame rail. That is where my wire comes from.
Good morning all; I see that many people have problems with their brakes!
Mine is quite atipical! My vehicle brakes normally for about 10 pedal strokes and at the end of the 11th, the pedal goes to the floor .. and no more brakes !!! The red light of the valve lights up on the dashboard. I have to pump with the pedal several times before finding the braking. I replaced the master cylinder, the internal joints of the brake calipers, the rear wheel cylinders with the segments, the central rear brake flexible and the rigid brakes. I was able to bleed the front/rear circuit without any particular difficulties. The problem remains the same .... I go crazy! It was by looking on the net that I found this interesting video post.
Do you think that the proportional valve can be the origin of the problem!? My vehicle is a Ford model A Streetrod with discs at the front, booster, and drums in the back.
Thank you for your help. (Jef France)
Great video I’m dealing with a blocked LF port on my 1980 Mustang front disc rear drum. How do I clear out/reset a LF metering valve side? All other sides bleed including RF but no fluid to LF caliper at all. I tried blowing air into front input but no go. Brake light not tripped.
I’m actually not familiar with the braking system in your mustang. You sure it’s not a bad caliper? I would think the right and left are common pressure with no valve in between.
Are you sure you don't have a collapsed brake hose?
If the switch on the proportioning valve has continuity to ground, does that mean the proportioning valve needs to be reset?
Correct
Have a serious brake issue and wondering if this could be my problem. I have an '83 T-Type Grand National that I'm doing a LS swap in, it has a hydra-boost system in it. Newly rebuilt booster, new power steering pump and master cylinder. Spent over 5 hrs today trying to bleed the booster and SP with no luck.
I did over 120 iterations with the steering wheel going to the left and right 5 times and then pumping the brakes 3 times trying to bleed the system. I believe the steering is good but I have no brake pedal.
I converted the rear drum brakes over to disc brakes (2000 Camaro) and was thinking this issue here may have something to do with it.
Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Are you getting any fluid to rear brakes when you open the bleeder valve
good video. I have a question, and I know this is an older post. I have a Jeep Wrangler (TJ) disk, drum. When I start the Jeep and step on the brakes a couple times, it take about 30 minutes of sitting before the rear brakes fully release from the drums. (might do this on the front too, I haven't checked). While driving and braking, I noticed loss of power after a mile (because the engine is struggling with the rear brakes holding the wheels from freely rotating.) Before I start throwing money at everything (it has new rear brakes, drums and hardware), would you lean toward this being a Proportioning Valve or Master Cylinder issue. (both rears do this and I can test that its brakes, by disconnecting drive shaft and rotating rear tires.) I have never heard of this valve before until researching this issue.
I’d say it is the rear drum(s) area. The spring’s job is to pull away both primary and secondary brake shoes away from the drum. The pushing the pedal send fluid into the wheel cylinders to push the two pins into the top of the shoes. This puts brake pressure on the drum. Plus make sure the install of the shoes when putting the drum(s) are set correctly. Set correctly is having the ability to just barely install the drum without any dragging against the shoes. After that the final adjustment is when you back up and the shoes are adjusted by the star adjuster. Hope it works for you.
Thanks for the video.
Hmm. I purchased a aftermarket complete brake booster kit with proportion valve and I get fluid from all bleeder screws except for the left rear line.
Would I do the same solution as you demonstrated? Or is there something else?
Also, the drum brake reservoir on the master cylinder doesn't "bubble" when I bench bled the mc...the front on did. Is that a bad thing?
Also the proportion valve is new and has a built in a adjustable valve as I converted from manual front drum brakes to power disc brakes.
Thanks for your help. 🙆
Probably not a proportioning valve issue if you don't get fluid from only one cylinder. There is probably an issue with the cylinder itself. For the master, if it was new when you bled it, I would have expected bubbles. Sometimes they can be a real bugger to get the air out of them.
I have a 69 c10 I installed a conversion kit with a valve just like that. My front brakes will not release after pressing them about five times and the only way they release is loosing the line back to the master cylinder. I’m only using one port for both front brake and tee them off, could that be the problem?
You can use one port. That’s how my 69 C20 is. That sounds like a bad master cylinder potentially.
Thanks, that what I was thinking.
disc is better than drum?
This is exactly the issue that I am having now. I had rear drums on and then converted to discs.
Now the rear brakes basically don't brake.. It must be this valve?
Can you adjust them or do you have to buy one that is made specifically for disc brakes?
You need a proportional valve if you have disc brakes. There are 2 different types. Disc drum or disc disc. Get the one to match your setup.
@@mechtrician1 Just to confirm a proportial valve is different to a combination valve ?
@@Zapo9668 no, they are pretty much the same thing. Technically what I show in the video is a combination valve.
Drum only systems just have a distribution block. Otherwise you have a proportional valve/combination valve.
@@mechtrician1 OK thank you for this, that is very informative.
Would you agree that if one fitted substrianly larger rear calipres ( more than double the size) the stock combination valve would essentially act as if there is a fault in the rear, and it will send fluid to the front, therefore limiting the rear breaks to almost no breaking?
@@Zapo9668 doubtful. Once bled, the volume and rate won’t be much different from a smaller caliper.
Towards the rear of the proportion vault that peace that's screws in with a little black rubber looks like release Vale what is it for and why would it leak out break fluid out of there
That’s the metering valve and it shouldn’t leak. If it’s leaking it probably has a bad seal.
Hi I like your video I have a 1992 GMC Sierra 3500 utility body truck a year ago I had my brakes redone rotors in the front drums in the back as time went on I noticed my brake level in my reservoir was low so I refilled it about six months after that I want to change my front pads and forgotten that I had done that as I was pressing the cups in the fluid overtopped the reservoir popping It Off when I got everything fixed pads back on the front I kept getting a warning brake warning light constant on the truck and I believe that the proportioning valve read a loss of pressure cutting off the front brakes if I push in that button on the front of the proportioning valve does that reset the slide valve inside the proportioning unit I have the little rubber grommet that you took off on the front and on the back of my proportioning valve I just pushed in on the front one and it clicked the rear one I cannot feel with my feeler gauge the truck the truck dive to the front now whenever I apply the brakes so I have a feeling that I'm not getting juice to the front any advice is helpful thank you
Did you ever find the solution?
what setup did you go to for 4 wheels dic brakes. i have this valve on my truck w 4 wheel disc brakes after taking off the rear drums and just cant seem to get the brakes to feel how i want them to feel.
There are 2 valves. Disc/drum and disc/disc. If you had disc/drum, you need to replace it with a disc/disc prop valve. The residual valve on the drum one will cause problems.
@@mechtrician1 they stop decently but I find the fronts take a while to lockup
hmmm, wonder if you are out there. You seem to be quite knowledgeable about these things. I have a 72 Dodge Campion Motorhome. It has all wheel drum brakes and has the exact proportion valve you show (Thought you said drum brakes would not have one of these?). This vehicle sat since 2007. Was given to me in 2021. :) There are no working brakes on it at all...the e-brake would probably work if I adjusted it but not sure how. :) I will cross that bridge when I get there. When I got the master cylinder was dry and empty. I filled with fluid, pumped the brakes, of course nothing. I have since bench bled a new master and installed. After installation of the rear reservoir 1/2 nut line, and the forward reservoir 9/16 nut line I tried to bleed the lines as they entered the master as I was instructed. Pushed the brakes a few times, held down brake pedal and loosened 1/2" line...brake fluid/air shot out just as I wanted. Remember, bench bleed kit was bought with associated hoses and air and fluid came out of both reservoirs, through the hoses and back to the reservoirs until all air was out. Now, fast forward to the front reservoir, holding brake and losen nut and nothing happens, no air, no fluid. I would have thought since I'm at the outlet of the front reservoir and loosening the line with brake pedal pressure that fluid would have shot out. But it did not. An attempt to gravity bleed the brakes at all wheels...even with 25psi of vacuum applied to the brake bleeds had zero fluid making it to any of the 4 wheel cylinders. Can you let me some of your advice as to where I need to go from here? I'm at the point where I want to remove/bleed or whatever each line independent of the master and or see that they are open. BUT, I'm not so sure the pro valve is the issue as if it were shuttled one wat or the other, I would have brakes in the front or back. I do not. Tks
This information was fantastic.
So if the master cylinder is bad would it be best to just replace the valve too? Is this something I can bench bleed? Or does it need to be installed?
It's not necessary to replace the valve if you know the master is bad unless the valve has obvious signs of corrosion or other issues. You don't need to bench bleed the valve like you do the master, it doesn't get air trapped in it the same way.
@@mechtrician1 to be honest I'm not quite sure still looking for the smoking gun the brakes were fine one day the next they were not rear reservoir was bone dry and the front was full checked for and leaks and couldn't find anything. I did pour some fluid in the rear and pumped it and got some pressure back and limped it home and checked for leaks so far nada I guess ill start with a bench bleed just don't know where to go from there. 76 camaro discs front drums rear
Thank you for the video
Does the shuttle move front to back or side to side
Front to back/back to front.
Thanks man ,very helpful 👍
When you say "brake light", I assume you are talking about the brake warning light on the dash. Not the "BRAKE LIGHT".
Correct.
Did you ever do a review of your ME Wagner pcv valve?
I did a video on it, but I have not technically reviewed it. It helps, and it’s nice that it’s adjustable, but it’s not amazing.
@@mechtrician1 ok thanks. I watched the first video. I was just looking forward to a review video. 😁
@@musclebone7875 I take requests! 😂
I’ll do one next. 👍
@@mechtrician1 lol thanks brother. Take care and have a blessed day
Thank you.
I have a 96 impala my rear breaks have been cut I put a new line and still.not getting fluid to the rear. Is it the proportioning valve.?
Yeah if someone’s cut the line, the valve is probably tripped.
@@mechtrician1 ok so I got.to.slide it over by putting in that white piece
Where do I buy this tool?
There is an Amazon affiliate link in the description for the tool.
Can I replace the switch without brakes?
I think you’re asking if you can replace the switch without brake fluid leaking? If that’s what you’re asking the answer is yes you can replace it.
Does it leak when your bleeding .. I don't see a seal on the tool
There is no fluid in the center of the spool where the switch is. There are seals internally that block it.
Sir, thank you for posting this video, much appreciated. I am having this problem with my 93 S10. Prop valve is currently removed. Are you saying I can use an awl or similar, and just slide it back to the center?
Yes
By chance are you getting any fluid coming to your rear brakes? My 91 S10 will not get any fluid to the rear. Front bleeds and flows fine. I’ve replaced proportioning valve and master cylinder. Have bled and bled and same problem since the start. I’ve bled every line and fitting numerous times, and no matter what I can get fluid flowing through the prop valve but none flowing out of the abs hydraulic switch on the side where the main rear brake line hooks up.
@@corkelfurg Rears work well, just the front. For me, the shuttle valve inside the combo valve tripped to one side when I disconnected the front brake hoses. Wish I had seen this video before I started the brake job.
How do i center the valve
It’s all in the video.
Would the valve cause new calipers to keep pressure and not release
It shouldn't, but a drum residual valve could. Is it the rear calipers?
@@mechtrician1 the front calipers replaced everything but valve and booster calipers won't release
@@jeremygray6066 mine too. Ordered new porp-valve.. but chewed the fitting trying to get lines out of old valve..
An internally collapsed rubber line can lock a caliper like a one way valve.
Today is the day I found out why the brakes on my El Camino never felt quite like they should... They are corrected now that I know what I've been missing in my bleeding process
I didn't know there was a tool for this problem, I made one out of a bolt lol
Well small leak in the middle
Line to the rear and kept shuttling to no flow tot he rear and I gotta fix leak first I guess then tool went in place but still no flow weird
That pin is always touching ground and "making contact", there's a switch inside the plastic.
If the pin is always making contact then the brake light will always be on. With the shuttle valve in the middle allowing flow to the front and rear, the pin will not make contact.
@@mechtrician1 the pin turns the switch on. Use a multimeter and check it out yourself.
@@gotj maybe I’m not understanding what you’re saying, but quite simply when the valve is not tripped, the switch pin is not making contact and the valve is centered. When the valve is tripped, the pin is touching the shuttle valve and grounded. This switch that I have doesn’t have a contact in it. Maybe some of them do though.
@@mechtrician1 check continuity with a tester, there's no continuity from the pin to the electrical connector unless you push it in which is what turns the switch that's inside, on.
@@gotj so I have 3 switches laying around I just checked. 2 of them do in fact have a switch in them but one is on all the time. It’s probably bad. That explains why I thought the switch was the actual valve contact. So you are correct. I just assumed the contact was the switch because I checked a switch before and there was always continuity.
Bought this so I could bleed my brakes without tripping the valve. Once I’m done bleeding, can you install the original switch in the proportional valve without letting air in?
Yes absolutely. The switch port does not enter the hydraulic circuit anywhere. It’s isolated.
And yes you definitely do not want to leave the tool in there once you’re done bleeding.
@@mechtrician1 thanks for the quick reply much appreciated!
Yo what is this "tool" called, nobody has named but keeps saying "the tool".
A screw in plastic thingy
Just explain how to reset the valve next time please
Dont think you can bleed w test lite prong in.
Mines in the center and fluid still won't come out of the rear port lol
Bad valve or bad master potentially.
These plugs are now about $10 to $20 dollars.
what a rip off
good info!
This is to painful uh uh uh
Omg dude get to the point you keep freezing up
So much time wasted on ummms and uhhhs. But anyhow uhhhh ummm thanks for the ummm uhh info.🙂
Hey man it’s, ummm, not as easy as it seems. Nothing is scripted so I have to think when I speak to make sure the right info gets out there. Good trick is to play back the videos at 1.5x speed 😉
@@mechtrician1 you did good