As a guy who’s converting to power brakes this video was super helpful! Thanks for posting it. I used the factory hole for the push rod and it doesn’t seem to have any braking power at all. I did notice that there is a second hole just below the factory hole? I tried it and it seems to work but I didn’t know about the ratios . I’m going to adjust and see if I can get more pedal out of it. This is on a 78 C10.
I have a little mini buggy I have been building and have been trying to work out a breaking issue. I had bought a kit that utilized a 7/8 handbrake style actuator hydraulic master cylinder and I needed a foot style break obviously. So I bought a 7/8 floor Mount master cylinder. I added a single hydraulic brake caliper for the rear that also required a 7/8 floor Mount master cylinder. I used a splitter that was also an adjustable bias bar. No matter what I had done the buggy would not come to a stop. It had an extremely hard pedal, absolutely no air in the lines, and no matter how hard you pushed on that pedal it would not think about sliding a tire, you would do good to even come to a stop. Now the master cylinder and brake pedal both has different leverage adjustability and that too didn't make a difference. Out of curiosity and reading several hours worth of literature I was at a loss. Out of curiosity I disconnected one of the master cylinders and hooked my brake pedal to a single master cylinder that activated the front and rear calipers simultaneously and it worked beautifully. It never dawned on me that I was overpowering the calipers because you would think by overpowering a caliper it would stop too easy, boy was I wrong, 180° wrong LOL. To be honest it still makes no sense to me but the problem is fixed therefore I'm good. I hate that there is almost $200 worth of brand new parts that I didn't need but will find an excuse to use them on something else 😉
I need more brake on my Beretta RWD swap. I have 6:1 Wilwood pedals with a 3/4 bore for front and 7/8 for rear with the balance bar set all the way to the front and still can't lock up the front brakes. (Single 2.25 piston calipers up front, explorer 8.8 calipers out back). Should I be looking at different calipers up front or different bore front master. I do already have aggressive EBC yellow pads.
In my experience most older cars use a 1" or 1/16 MC. With or without a booster. Drum or disc brake. With that I find a 3/4 or 7/8 MC is the deal. And that does depend on pedal ratio. And piston size in the calipers. This is for street or road racing. With proper tyre sizing. Balance bar set is usually 3/4 F 7/8 R. Drag racing with b/s tyre sizing is it seems backwards. Needs more rear brake to slow down with the centrifigual mass. Which means the car will never really stop. Just slow down. As eventually those BMX rotors on the front will fade to nothing and then will lock up the rears, or all 4 will fade and then the hanky may stop you,, or maybe not!! I see those b/s scalloped rotors on Sprintcars at times. They weigh half of what say a Mustang weighs and only [usually] do about 90mph max. And so many of them do not stop!!
Hello all.I purchased your 4 brake system for my drag car, chevelle . But I see in your videos and tech documents that both 7 to 1 and 5 to 1 pedal ratios are recommended ? Which one do I use ?
Hey Doug just wondering, how come James Tall don’t have motion raceworks on the side of his 240? What is the problem there. He is an awesome promoter for you guys. Hit him up with some parts to clear that up.
@@MotionRaceworksOfficial I thought so, I wasn’t sure. I remembered them being on there, I just saw tune em alls video yesterday and didn’t see them and I was like WHAT?? !!
My man’s going deep into the brake world. I can dig it
Don’t think there is such a thing as talking about braking too much!!! Great info Doug!!!
As a guy who’s converting to power brakes this video was super helpful! Thanks for posting it. I used the factory hole for the push rod and it doesn’t seem to have any braking power at all. I did notice that there is a second hole just below the factory hole? I tried it and it seems to work but I didn’t know about the ratios . I’m going to adjust and see if I can get more pedal out of it. This is on a 78 C10.
I have a little mini buggy I have been building and have been trying to work out a breaking issue. I had bought a kit that utilized a 7/8 handbrake style actuator hydraulic master cylinder and I needed a foot style break obviously. So I bought a 7/8 floor Mount master cylinder. I added a single hydraulic brake caliper for the rear that also required a 7/8 floor Mount master cylinder. I used a splitter that was also an adjustable bias bar. No matter what I had done the buggy would not come to a stop. It had an extremely hard pedal, absolutely no air in the lines, and no matter how hard you pushed on that pedal it would not think about sliding a tire, you would do good to even come to a stop. Now the master cylinder and brake pedal both has different leverage adjustability and that too didn't make a difference. Out of curiosity and reading several hours worth of literature I was at a loss. Out of curiosity I disconnected one of the master cylinders and hooked my brake pedal to a single master cylinder that activated the front and rear calipers simultaneously and it worked beautifully. It never dawned on me that I was overpowering the calipers because you would think by overpowering a caliper it would stop too easy, boy was I wrong, 180° wrong LOL. To be honest it still makes no sense to me but the problem is fixed therefore I'm good. I hate that there is almost $200 worth of brand new parts that I didn't need but will find an excuse to use them on something else 😉
Awesome vid. Just put TBMs on the MR2 and was going to make this call to Tech today. Your guy Levi is super helpful.
Thanks mate. I’ll be using this information on my Brougham.
Thank you for super informative and inresting videos. Happy to oder parts from you since you guys give us too!
I need more brake on my Beretta RWD swap. I have 6:1 Wilwood pedals with a 3/4 bore for front and 7/8 for rear with the balance bar set all the way to the front and still can't lock up the front brakes. (Single 2.25 piston calipers up front, explorer 8.8 calipers out back). Should I be looking at different calipers up front or different bore front master. I do already have aggressive EBC yellow pads.
Off to the garage! Thanks Doug!
Best day of week Doug 👍 You don't want brake fade 😂
My brakes in my hobby stock are stiff as a rock w no brake pedal feel I hate it. What can I do to get some brake feed back feel
Thank you for the great info.
In my experience most older cars use a 1" or 1/16 MC. With or without a booster. Drum or disc brake. With that I find a 3/4 or 7/8 MC is the deal. And that does depend on pedal ratio. And piston size in the calipers.
This is for street or road racing. With proper tyre sizing.
Balance bar set is usually 3/4 F 7/8 R. Drag racing with b/s tyre sizing is it seems backwards. Needs more rear brake to slow down with the centrifigual mass. Which means the car will never really stop. Just slow down. As eventually those BMX rotors on the front will fade to nothing and then will lock up the rears, or all 4 will fade and then the hanky may stop you,, or maybe not!!
I see those b/s scalloped rotors on Sprintcars at times. They weigh half of what say a Mustang weighs and only [usually] do about 90mph max. And so many of them do not stop!!
Hello all.I purchased your 4 brake system for my drag car, chevelle . But I see in your videos and tech documents that both 7 to 1 and 5 to 1 pedal ratios are recommended ? Which one do I use ?
Can someone help me to understand what exactly is Master Cylinder to Wheel Cylinder Ratio Chart
Hey Doug just wondering, how come James Tall don’t have motion raceworks on the side of his 240? What is the problem there. He is an awesome promoter for you guys. Hit him up with some parts to clear that up.
That care is pure Motion parts, the stickers were falling off. Don’t you worry.
@@MotionRaceworksOfficial I thought so, I wasn’t sure. I remembered them being on there, I just saw tune em alls video yesterday and didn’t see them and I was like WHAT?? !!
Thank you!!!
TBM brakes look so nice I would hate to hide them behind my 15" steelies on my Regal. I could use a better master cylinder though...
It’s not always about looks. Let’s not forget they stop better and drag less :)
I need a thirty minute video….I’ve been fighting my brakes ever since I re-did everything
👍🏽🇺🇸👍🏽 great knowledge. Thanks
next tech tip tuesday, can you do a video on how to set the thermostat behind you?
...is there a coincidence between ole Cleeters brakes on the RTR 'Stang takin a shit and this 'info-mercial' for TBM brakes?.... I think not. LMAO 😎🤙
I like it when's it's just the tip! 🗿
Hmm Cleetus has brake trouble for clutch kickers... Now tech tip on brakes.. I smell a conspiracy
Cleet watch this vid! Hahahaha.
I did
@@timcleeter7592 McFarland