Awesome explanation of problems you can encounter during this procedure, Thanks David. You make it look so easy! But still realistic to the average weekend build!
I remember back to when I started cutting and flaring my own brake tubing and how stupid I was. I dont know how many times I'd finally get a perfect flare only to realize the fitting wasn't on the tube or if I made a hard bend I'd forgotten to get the fitting past it. Lol live and learn 😌
Do you have or recommend a dual power booster brake system for a brake system for a 1951 dodge panetruck to fit on the frame under the floor panels/ floor board's
Thank You for a good video! Just on question: the original master cylinder was a combined brake/cluch unit? What happens to the cluch when the new master is in? Regards -Timo-
Davy, I'm so loving this video because I have asked, why cant the master cylinder be bled attached to the vehicle? Owing to the fact it's as stable as using a bench vise and the shaft would be doing the same thing as whatever you'd use to push the air out of the master cylinder. Could you say the difference between double flare tool and bubble flair tool?
A Bubble flare basically happens while creating a Double flare. Its more or less what you have just before you press the center of a Double flare down.
Great video. I'm doing a Front disc conversion on my 65 long bed. When running the brake lines out of the proportioning valve is there only one line or 2 lines? Also is there some where to find a diagram on how to run the brake lines?
there should be at least two lines running from the proportioning valve, sometimes even three if you split left/right front at the valve itself and don;t use a junction block. There is no diagram for running lines. Just run them in the way that works best for you. Remember to try and keep them away from moving parts or extreme heat.
Thanks for the great video, I was doing some research on a single to dual master cylinder for my 66 Vette. I did have two questions. 1) Are you using steel or stainless steel - heard stainless is a lot more difficult to work with and steel doesn't last long. 2) Have you tried using copper / nickel lines yet with any luck?
I have the dual reservoir and power booster you featured on your video. I want to do a brake flush to replace old brake fluid. When I suck old brake fluid from reservoir and replace with new do I need to put reservoir cap back on with the 2 holder clips before I begin to hold brake and bleed brakes? Or can I keep reservoir cap off so I can see reservoir level? Or does it even matter? Big fan of your channel
Hi Dave. On my 54 Chevy , aka O'l Beater. I'm starting to plan my brake lines.i have the original frame, but with a 1987 c10 front suspension, and brakes on the firewall.what VC would be the best way for me to get started, thanks for your Videos. Very good.
I like the video it covers a lot , I’m concerned about the air cleaner on my inline 6 hitting or interfering with the dual master cylinder and booster , will it fit in a 65 with a inline 230 and single barrel carburetor and original air cleaner assembly?
Great video! I'm converting to a dual line system and want to buy a pre-bent stainless line for the crossover line to feed only the rear which runs down the passenger side of the frame. The pre-bent line is 1/4 inch. Is it okay to use 1/4 inch diameter and step it down to feed the 3/16 inch rear line? Also, is it necessary to use the proportioning valve with 4 wheel drum brakes?
Hello i would like to add a dual master cylinder to my 60 apache like dave installed my question is i still want to keep my 6 cylinder and clutch slave so how will i keep my hydraulics to run the clutch slave. Thanks for your help
@@tedcarney3472 Assuming you need a DISC/DRUM unit, here's the link: www.holley.com/products/brakes/replacement-brake-parts/master_cylinder_and_booster/parts/KORN62MDISCDRUM
Installed my brake booster and started bleeding everything. Brakes seem spongie and don’t get a hard pedal till about 2 inches from ground. Any pointers how to fix this issue?
I have a 1957 GMC and just replaced the master cylinder but its under the drivers side and not a fan of not being able to check the fluids , Is there a kit that allows me to move the master cylinder to the firewall under the hood and give me the conversion to make it power brakes
I have a 62 chevy c10 when I brake the truck goes to the left I have new disc brakes and I did bleed the lines but can’t seem to find the problem any ideas
Yes we carry this kit for a manual transmission also. If you are running disc/disc you would just specify that at the time of ordering and we would ship it with the correct proportioning valve.
The number 1 problem is over tightening the first or second step or both. Yes, it is easier in the vise to hold the tool arm, but fat & fluffy. Like neighbors cat that poops in your kids sand box. These will crack, snap off or leak. Each hose, tee fitting, wheel cylinder is machined inside and slightly different. I used the SnapOn kits for ISO bubble, inverted/double flare (either term is fine) just go easy. This in not holding a 100 foot tower so, tighter than hell + 3 turns is wrong. Maybe the reason for AN 33 degree fittings to keep it Bubba proof. Just army Bubba’s. Not good ole boys with gator loops on their hats. Keep it soft, let the fitting push it home to the old or new component. That’s how long lasting seals are made. And vehicles out of the ditch, excluding 3AM on Saturday nights. Just thinking out loud! Certified automotive ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
Hands down you're among the best tutorial channels. I have to do this on my 76 C10 once the weather warms up. Thanks for all of the great content!
Awesome explanation of problems you can encounter during this procedure, Thanks David. You make it look so easy! But still realistic to the average weekend build!
Thanks for watching OldBlue
This guy is mechanic Jesus. Great video.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for watching!
Very good demo Dave. Informative and to the point. Thanks man.
I remember back to when I started cutting and flaring my own brake tubing and how stupid I was. I dont know how many times I'd finally get a perfect flare only to realize the fitting wasn't on the tube or if I made a hard bend I'd forgotten to get the fitting past it. Lol live and learn 😌
Been there and done that!
I'm guilty!
David, Building a 1960 F100. But, I still watch your videos (on Chevy's) to learn all your little tips . Thanks !!
So what do you do if you are retaining the hydraulic clutch?
Dave, The Goat!
Thanks bud!
Looks good!! I just bought the complete stainless lines for my 79 F150. No issue!!!
Do you have or recommend a dual power booster brake system for a brake system for a 1951 dodge panetruck to fit on the frame under the floor panels/ floor board's
I love the videos keep them coming
Thanks man!
Great video Dave. You might want to add how to adjust gap between booster rod and master cylinder. Should be around .020
Thanks for the tip!
Great videos. I deal with brothers because of them.
Brothers was bought out by Holley.
Can you please do a 81-87 roof skin replacement video?? Thanks for all you guys do!!!!
We'll add that to our list
Excellent instruction.
Thank You for a good video! Just on question: the original master cylinder was a combined brake/cluch unit? What happens to the cluch when the new master is in?
Regards
-Timo-
We sell a unit that has a slave cylinder for the clutch too. Check out the options on our website www.brotherstrucks.com
Great video keep them coming!!!!
Davy, I'm so loving this video because I have asked, why cant the master cylinder be bled attached to the vehicle? Owing to the fact it's as stable as using a bench vise and the shaft would be doing the same thing as whatever you'd use to push the air out of the master cylinder. Could you say the difference between double flare tool and bubble flair tool?
A Bubble flare basically happens while creating a Double flare. Its more or less what you have just before you press the center of a Double flare down.
Can I ask you why you had to drill a hole 1 1/2 inch below the original one on the brake pedal? Is it required?
So it has the right amount of throw for the new master cylinder. Yes it is required.
Great video. I'm doing a Front disc conversion on my 65 long bed. When running the brake lines out of the proportioning valve is there only one line or 2 lines? Also is there some where to find a diagram on how to run the brake lines?
there should be at least two lines running from the proportioning valve, sometimes even three if you split left/right front at the valve itself and don;t use a junction block. There is no diagram for running lines. Just run them in the way that works best for you. Remember to try and keep them away from moving parts or extreme heat.
Thanks for the great video, I was doing some research on a single to dual master cylinder for my 66 Vette. I did have two questions. 1) Are you using steel or stainless steel - heard stainless is a lot more difficult to work with and steel doesn't last long. 2) Have you tried using copper / nickel lines yet with any luck?
We use steel exclusively. Never had an issue with it failing. We haven't tried Nickle or Copper.
How bout if you don't want vacuum assist, just a standard duel reservoir mounted directly to firewall?
No problem, those are available too.
I have the dual reservoir and power booster you featured on your video. I want to do a brake flush to replace old brake fluid. When I suck old brake fluid from reservoir and replace with new do I need to put reservoir cap back on with the 2 holder clips before I begin to hold brake and bleed brakes? Or can I keep reservoir cap off so I can see reservoir level? Or does it even matter? Big fan of your channel
Hi Dave. On my 54 Chevy , aka O'l Beater. I'm starting to plan my brake lines.i have the original frame, but with a 1987 c10 front suspension, and brakes on the firewall.what VC would be the best way for me to get started, thanks for your Videos. Very good.
Sorry Juan, we don't know what you mean by VC? Please explain and we'll try to see if we can help.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV VC was I. Error. Sorry. I need to proof read. Big thumb shitty phone syndrome
@@juanbarturen2726 Check out this video and it should help you get started doing your brake lines: th-cam.com/video/7q_fPFnXvw0/w-d-xo.html
Do you notice in vid. when he's under dash drilling hole in brake pedal,you don't see any new bolt heads/nuts holding the booster????
Outstanding
I like the video it covers a lot , I’m concerned about the air cleaner on my inline 6 hitting or interfering with the dual master cylinder and booster , will it fit in a 65 with a inline 230 and single barrel carburetor and original air cleaner assembly?
Yes, it will fit because we use a 12" booster.
Great video! I'm converting to a dual line system and want to buy a pre-bent stainless line for the crossover line to feed only the rear which runs down the passenger side of the frame. The pre-bent line is 1/4 inch. Is it okay to use 1/4 inch diameter and step it down to feed the 3/16 inch rear line? Also, is it necessary to use the proportioning valve with 4 wheel drum brakes?
You could do that, but we recommend running the same size from the master to the wheel.
Hello i would like to add a dual master cylinder to my 60 apache like dave installed my question is i still want to keep my 6 cylinder and clutch slave so how will i keep my hydraulics to run the clutch slave. Thanks for your help
We sell a Clutch Slave version, no problem.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV What is the part number for the clutch slave version? Having difficulty finding it on your website.
@@tedcarney3472 Assuming you need a DISC/DRUM unit, here's the link: www.holley.com/products/brakes/replacement-brake-parts/master_cylinder_and_booster/parts/KORN62MDISCDRUM
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV Do you sell that kit without the power booster?
@@tedcarney3472 we sell the master by itself if you want to do it that way
Installed my brake booster and started bleeding everything. Brakes seem spongie and don’t get a hard pedal till about 2 inches from ground. Any pointers how to fix this issue?
I have a 1957 GMC and just replaced the master cylinder but its under the drivers side and not a fan of not being able to check the fluids , Is there a kit that allows me to move the master cylinder to the firewall under the hood and give me the conversion to make it power brakes
Yep, we sell a firewall mounted conversion. Check it our at www.brotherstrucks.com
Hey, my chevy 64 has a 8 lug pattern, do you guys have a front kit for it, with master cylinder and booster
Yes we have conversions for the 8 lug front ends. Check our website www.brotherstrucks.com to see all your options and current pricing.
Thanks for the info .
Our pleasure!
What was the reason you drilled the lower hole1 1/2in the brake pedal arm?
So it would have the proper amount of "throw" for the new master cylinder.
I have a 62 chevy c10 when I brake the truck goes to the left I have new disc brakes and I did bleed the lines but can’t seem to find the problem any ideas
What size is that spacer for the brake booster?
Not sure, it's just part of our kit. Call the shop and one of our Customer Service guys can measure it for you.
What do I do for the original hydraulic clutch?
We have a unit available for those applications too!
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV Can I buy just the hydraulic clutch master cylinder?
@@terrywill4103 No, the mounting situation required to make this conversion work makes the booster mandattory in the conversion.
Great video, thx!!!!
Is this about the same procedure for a 73?
Yessir, very similar!
What is that plate called? the one that is screwed onto the truck?
It's a mounting plate that comes with our kit. It's not available separately.
What's the part number for the pre bent brake lines
That depends on what year make and model your truck is.
64 chevrolet c10 ..I want to swap out my single master cylinder to a dual
@@brian8206-g5f this is exactly what going to do as well
Where can I get the firewall template
Do you have this same kit for a manual transmission??
And does disc/disc need a proportioning valve?
Yes we carry this kit for a manual transmission also. If you are running disc/disc you would just specify that at the time of ordering and we would ship it with the correct proportioning valve.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV could you send me the part number for that please? I’ve looked in your catalog and couldn’t find it.
@@robertrock8411 www.brotherstrucks.com/1960-62-CHEVY_GMC-TRUCK-POWER-BRAKE-CONVERSION-MANUAL/productinfo/KORN62M/
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV thank you so much!
The number 1 problem is over tightening the first or second step or both. Yes, it is easier in the vise to hold the tool arm, but fat & fluffy. Like neighbors cat that poops in your kids sand box. These will crack, snap off or leak. Each hose, tee fitting, wheel cylinder is machined inside and slightly different. I used the SnapOn kits for ISO bubble, inverted/double flare (either term is fine) just go easy. This in not holding a 100 foot tower so, tighter than hell + 3 turns is wrong. Maybe the reason for AN 33 degree fittings to keep it Bubba proof. Just army Bubba’s. Not good ole boys with gator loops on their hats. Keep it soft, let the fitting push it home to the old or new component. That’s how long lasting seals are made. And vehicles out of the ditch, excluding 3AM on Saturday nights. Just thinking out loud!
Certified automotive ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
I want to see a 1959 job
It’s a tragedy that Dave isn’t around anymore. If I’m wrong, let me know
Dave kinda leaves important info when mounting the booster of things you run into.
My 62 has a hydravac! 😩 pump
That's actually kinda cool!
Wow I'm early
Original brake lines are 1/4 inch not 3/16
use dot 4 or dot 5 it wont hurt paint and is a better fluid