I'm already an experienced mechanic. But your simple step by step instructions really helped me skip taking extra stuff apart. Thank you for your clear step by step instructions.
Jimmy I totally agree!! This man has single handedly taught me how to keep Grandpa Walts '85 Scottsdale up and running without me having to pay a mechanic $101 an hour! This man, although we've never met, is one of my favorite guys in the world, he has no idea I even exist BUT Grandpa Walt was my hero and these tutorials have made it possible for me keep Grandpa's spirit alive through this ole red truck and that small accomplishment means the world to me!!! Thank you sir, for taking the time to make these tutorials for those of us that know just enough on our own to be detrimental to a combustion engine!! 😄 🤣 😂 The pride i feel when I am able to successfully repair, tune up or just simply maintain this truck is a feeling I never knew was so fantastic! The greasy hands (whole body really, I'm a mess) and smudged face is a badge of honor to me, I just wish I could still call grandpa or grandma and tell them how much I've learned from working on ole Red and watching these tutorials!! THANK YOU FOR WHAT YOU DO!!! ~SINCERELY ~ ~~~~The grown woman that turns into Grandpa's lil girl everytime I climb into the cab or under the hood of this ole '85 Square body~~~~~
Great video, I used the information to replace the heater core on my 1979 gmc 2500. But I didn't find any pudin pie. I am handicaped by a broken back and I am alone. Puting the heater back in was a real chore. I used one of my crutches, I laid the crutch across from the cowl to the radiator mount. i used a cheap little 1 inch strap come along, I wrapped the strap around the heater through the hole in the firewall and hooked both ends to the crutch and hoisted the heater up until the heater bolts lined up with the holes in the firewall and to my relief, I was able to push the bolts through and put the nuts on. I rested 5 days before I could continue.The heater is in now and working good. Thank you for the very good video. wil
Thanks soo much. On ‘84, the damper door pin actually went all the way across the housing and had to be removed before I could separate the halves to get to the core. I also had to separate the upper vacuum pod which has a little screw inside the housing. It was a bit more involved than this one but this definitely helped. I bought the core from Summit, much better than the aluminum ones from elsewhere. Lets hope I never have to do this again. Thanks!
Great info! Only thing I did differently was to use line clamps on my heater hose so I didn't have to drain the entire system. Just put a water pump on a couple of months ago so all coolant was fresh.
Very good video. Sometimes you can take a 90 degree pick under your hoses and work them loose. Also, a set of swivel sockets and wobble extensions are amazing.
So it's basically a 20 min. job.😁😁😁 As soon as the weather warms up I'll probably tackle the 84 Scottsdale. Very good tutorial! Not too long but with plenty of detail.
Looking back at this video is kind of funny. On my '74 there was no angle at which I could see that bolt. Your tape on the U-joint trick totally worked though. Then I found the other bolt. I couldn't even touch the other bolt with my longest finger, but there had to be another bolt. I ended up having to take off the wheel, the battery tray (thankfully it was brand new, and not rotten), and the whole damn fender liner to get to that @#@#%$#@$#@$ bolt. On the bright side, this allowed me to literally stand in the engine compartment, so it was easy to scrape the gasket off the firewall. Hey, I'm not complaining about your video, it's just how this stuff goes from one truck to the next. Mine was a lot less friendly to work on than yours, apparently. I guess even in 1974 engineers hated mechanics!
Great info... Currently working on my 73 with no factory a/c but it has aftermarket a/c set up.... But it seems kinda easy but s lil time consuming but dealing with it
It's been awhile since I've done a heater core so I decided to look up a video to give me a refresher. The books telling me to do things that aren't required. Speaking of things that aren't required let's discuss those two studs that are at the bottom of the airbox going through the firewall especially the one that's near impossible to get to. I could not get to it. I was going to remove my fender well but somebody modified things that can't be removed without cutting them so I cut a hole in the fender well where that nut was. Once I got everything out I realized that putting those studs in from that direction was such a horrible design. They could have easily fixed a stud to the firewall with a thin nut holding it in place and had access to remove the nuts that hold it in from the interior rather than the firewall. If I didn't know better I would say it was a deliberate asshole design. So when I put this air box back in I'm going to put two studs in that firewall with a thin nut holding them in place permanently. If I ever need to remove the air box in the firewall it's a simple as doing the very thing I have to do anyways and then removing those two little thin nuts that hold those studs in and the whole thing will come out with the air box in the firewall. All they had to do was flip those two studs around. Book says this is 3 to 4 hour job. When you eliminate that one stud with that nut you can't reach this becomes an hour maximum. It literally took me about 10 minutes once I got past that.
I just discovered that I could have installed a copper, brass heater core for about $70 more than the aluminum one that I installed. If this aluminum one doesn't last I am going to be very disturbed. I would have bought the copper, brass one had I known. This job was way too much labor for me to do again. But If I live that long (Iam 87 now) I guess I will do It again. I just can't trust many mechanics. wil
The Aluminum core will likely outlast the original Copper core and it will be more efficient at heating your Trucks Cab along the way. We used the Aluminum core in our Truck that's shown in this video and have ZERO regrets about it.
Great video as usual! Is there any chance you have a video for the 67-72 C10 with A/C heater core replacement? I figure it's basically the same, but I can't find a single video showing it done with factory A/C. Thanks in advance for your response.
Exactly what I told my mom I should do is do the AC and the heat are cool all at once but she wants me to do the heat accord and then go back and do everything all over again
Just saw this really wanted video of yours because… I need to replace my heater core on my 1988 K5 blazer! I saw another video and ran scared of the trouble the other guys went through. Nonetheless, your process seems a little more reasonable. What differences should I expect to find against this truck model you performed this job with? Now, my vacuum lives do not seem to be working at all since air comes out of everywhere on whichever position I place my controls. Any advice you may provide me before I order my parts and start my job? Thanks a million !
It will be very similar to this if not exact. Some of the parts may be different due to updates, but mostly everything still functions the same from 73-87. Thanks for watching.
@@calircpilot4261 That varies wildly from year to year, so to pinpoint it on your application is tough for us from behind the keyboard here. What we can do is guide you in the right direction. Typical vacuum lines originate from behind the carb or throttle body, and pull full vacuum from the manifold and not ported vacuum from the carb/throttle body or another source. Most likely you will find a port on top of the manifold with an adapter that has multiple outlets for various sizes of vacuum hose.
I have yet to see anyone talk about the air cleaner system i have a 1982 gmc s15 high sierra and a lot of hoses are missing, cut or disconnected. If you could do a rundown on that you would be like the only one to cover that on youtube
My trucks been sitting for 15ish years before I bought it, mostly in fields. I want to go threw all this to get it out of the way and figured I should replace the vacuum pods mentioned while I’m in there. In the site I only see them for a 67-72 a/c air box vent actuator and the 67-72 firewall vent actuator. Are the vacuum pods for the 72 the same as they would be for a 74?
Ive got tons of sunflower seeds and insulation pieces from a rodent that made the heater core housing its home as you mentioned. I cleaned one side by removing the plastic pieces you show in your video giving me access through the blend door opening but cant access the side closer to the blower motor. Will removing the blower motor give me access to the housing box so i dont have to completely remove it like in your video?
What would be the best way to clean these plastic air ducts? Truck im working on has been sitting with animals (mice) living in it. Has a smell to it. Would warm soapy water be enough to do the trick?
What's the best brand Heater core, or should I have my Original OEM one rebuilt, it isn't leaking 14:08 leaking but I'm installing new carpet and I don’t want to chance it leaking on my new carpet its a 1975 Chevy K10? Lmk cuz I'm going to start soon.
I think we could use a detailed step-by-step explanation on how to replace that little plastic piece that opens and closes the vent door. The little white plastic piece that always breaks.
As long as you've plugged the outputs from the air box that go to that plenum, you don't have to replace it. However, you won't be able to use the vent option to get fresh air from the drivers side vent unless you replace that plenum.
Doing my 86 right now and it appears to have a one piece cover on the heater box so it looks like i have to pull out a pivot shaft from a divider door .
Wow they sure dont make them like they used Too. Barely had to pull anything out of that truck to remove the box. These newer cars you gotta remove the column and whole dash
My ac equipped 86 c10 has a plastic plate that covers the entire heater core up to the inlet and outlet and after I removed the 4 screws from the blender chamber and the cable bracket, I still can't get the whole heater cover to lift up. Only the inlet end will lift up a half an inch. It's binding up at the blender door hinge area and I've removed every screw and clip I could see. All vacuum pots are plastic. I haven't removed any of the operating rods connecting any of the posts to their doors yet. Any advice?
Did you remove the bracket on top of the unit that the cable attaches to? Also, did you remove the two screws that Dave mentions at 7:20? It's not normally necessary, but maybe your box needs a little extra flex to get the blender door out?
I had to remove the shaft for the I think is the bilevel door and disconnect the said pod from that connector rod. However the plastic mount for that rod broke on me thanks for the reply!
That's going to depend on why your heater doesn't work now. If your heater hoses are disconnected from the heater core, then this is probably why they disconnected them and it definitely will help, but if you've got something else going on then ???
Hey those seats in that truck are really nice. Can you tell us about them so we can upgrade to ones like that, or if you already made a vid about them shoot me a link
We have a video here: th-cam.com/video/LSGCZOetQLI/w-d-xo.html and we also carry these seats and door panels on our website at www.brotherstrucks.com in the 73-87 Interior Section of the site.
What brand of core do you recommend? I just put a Spectra (that came in a Murray box, go figure) in mine and it fit like garbage. Some liberal application of a small hammer got it to fit into the module, but I'm not opposed to doing the job again if there's a different brand that fits decently. Side note: the design of the factory heater core is laughable. There's nothing wrong with mine, but it allows so little airflow that my heater couldn't keep the windshield defrosted at speed.
We always recommend using what we carry in our product line. We've installed them all, sorted out what fits best, and what we feel represents the best quality. Doing these videos gives us a lot of opportunity to test parts, that's a bonus for us and you. Here's a link to the Heater Core section of our website: www.brotherstrucks.com/Heater-Cores-Hoses/products/2334/
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV alright thanks. I need to replace my radiator too would it be better to replace the heater core and radiator at the same time so I don’t have to flush the coolant twice and basically waste it?
Regarding the bracket for the Compressor, that's going to be easiest to find at a salvage yard. You could also try your local GM dealer, but that could get expensive really fast.
Is this the same in a 1990 suburban?? It all looks the same idk why the model years show different mine is a 90 and it looks just like every 73-87 I've ever seen. I need to do mine.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV thank you, I appreciate it! Just learning this all. Also thank you for the video. I don't feel as intimidated now going into it.
Restoring the factory AC can be extremely expensive if parts are missing, and sometimes replacing it with an aftermarket unit is far more economical. However, if your factory AC is mostly intact, then we recommend restoring the factory unit.
Hello,i have an 88 blazer and every so often while driving my ac will stop working and no air whatsoever will come through the vents.Where do you think the problem lies,a faulty low pressure ac switch,bad resistor,or a failing blower motor,thanks for any help!
It's going to be something like the Fan Switch, Resistor or Motor. Low pressure switch would just make the air stop being cold, not stop blowing altogether.
Keeps the fuel cooler whenever the AC is on. Helps when it's really hot outside and underhood temps get high. Nothing fancy, just an old Hot Rodding trick.
I don't understand the need for people to post comments like this. Why don't you just watch a ratchet video? Do you know what would happen if he used an electric ratchet in this video? Everyone would bitch that they don't have one and therefore can't do the job themselves. Do you see how useless your comment is?
I'm already an experienced mechanic. But your simple step by step instructions really helped me skip taking extra stuff apart. Thank you for your clear step by step instructions.
Absolutely! Thank you for watching!
I do not think anyone could do a better tutorial. You are the BOSS!
Thank you sir!
Jimmy I totally agree!! This man has single handedly taught me how to keep Grandpa Walts '85 Scottsdale up and running without me having to pay a mechanic $101 an hour! This man, although we've never met, is one of my favorite guys in the world, he has no idea I even exist BUT Grandpa Walt was my hero and these tutorials have made it possible for me keep Grandpa's spirit alive through this ole red truck and that small accomplishment means the world to me!!! Thank you sir, for taking the time to make these tutorials for those of us that know just enough on our own to be detrimental to a combustion engine!! 😄 🤣 😂
The pride i feel when I am able to successfully repair, tune up or just simply maintain this truck is a feeling I never knew was so fantastic! The greasy hands (whole body really, I'm a mess) and smudged face is a badge of honor to me, I just wish I could still call grandpa or grandma and tell them how much I've learned from working on ole Red and watching these tutorials!!
THANK YOU FOR WHAT YOU DO!!!
~SINCERELY ~
~~~~The grown woman that turns into Grandpa's lil girl everytime I climb into the cab or under the hood of this ole '85 Square body~~~~~
You mean El Hefe 👍🏻
Great video, I used the information to replace the heater core on my 1979 gmc 2500. But I didn't find any pudin pie. I am handicaped by a broken back and I am alone. Puting the heater back in was a real chore. I used one of my crutches, I laid the crutch across from the cowl to the radiator mount. i used a cheap little 1 inch strap come along, I wrapped the strap around the heater through the hole in the firewall and hooked both ends to the crutch and hoisted the heater up until the heater bolts lined up with the holes in the firewall and to my relief, I was able to push the bolts through and put the nuts on. I rested 5 days before I could continue.The heater is in now and working good. Thank you for the very good video. wil
It's a struggle if you're not handicapped... great story of ingenuity and tenacity! Glad the video help with the project!
Bud I just saw this You Rock Man !!! God Bless You.
Thank you for the video and your tips!!! I changed mine today, '79 C10. The tape on the socket and swivel worked great.
Our pleasure!
I saw on TikTok where you can run a small o-ring over the swivel part and it will do the same thing and keep it from floppy all over.
Just finished up my 86 K20 Suburban, Could not have done it without this video. Great Work!
Awesome!
Thanks soo much. On ‘84, the damper door pin actually went all the way across the housing and had to be removed before I could separate the halves to get to the core. I also had to separate the upper vacuum pod which has a little screw inside the housing. It was a bit more involved than this one but this definitely helped. I bought the core from Summit, much better than the aluminum ones from elsewhere. Lets hope I never have to do this again. Thanks!
Same on mine ('85).
Best video by far I've seen on this job. The heater box control cables on my '78 have had me a little spooked, but I think I get it now. Thanks.
Thank for the kudos, and thanks for watching!
Excellent tutorial ! I have to do all that and have been fretting doing it, but with your video I think I can "get er' done" ! Thanks !!!!! *****
Good luck and thanks for watching!
Great info! Only thing I did differently was to use line clamps on my heater hose so I didn't have to drain the entire system. Just put a water pump on a couple of months ago so all coolant was fresh.
Very good video. Sometimes you can take a 90 degree pick under your hoses and work them loose. Also, a set of swivel sockets and wobble extensions are amazing.
Excellent tips!
So it's basically a 20 min. job.😁😁😁 As soon as the weather warms up I'll probably tackle the 84 Scottsdale. Very good tutorial! Not too long but with plenty of detail.
It's far from a 20 minute job, but you'll be able to knock it out in a day. Good luck with the project!
Thank you, this was very helpful for me, now I can exchange the heat exchanger to my 84 C10. Have a good time, greetings from the Black Forest
Thank you and good luck with your project!
Thanks for this video. Just replaced it on my 82 C10. Pretty simple step by step. Much appreciated!
Our pleasure!
I’m doing an LS swap as we speak and this video is going to be very helpful to me. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Thank you for watching!
I just did one and the higher pressure cooling system blew out my heater core im leaking inside
Thank you so much. This helped with me 1988 GMC suburban. Its a little different but your video got me through it. 😂
Glad it helped!
Awesome video. Now I feel confident that I can get this done 👍
Excellent!
Holy mackerel! Got it done!!!!
Right on!
Thank God for Dave Welch!
Thank you Larry, and thanks for watching!
Great job explaining the steps !
Looking back at this video is kind of funny. On my '74 there was no angle at which I could see that bolt. Your tape on the U-joint trick totally worked though. Then I found the other bolt. I couldn't even touch the other bolt with my longest finger, but there had to be another bolt. I ended up having to take off the wheel, the battery tray (thankfully it was brand new, and not rotten), and the whole damn fender liner to get to that @#@#%$#@$#@$ bolt. On the bright side, this allowed me to literally stand in the engine compartment, so it was easy to scrape the gasket off the firewall. Hey, I'm not complaining about your video, it's just how this stuff goes from one truck to the next. Mine was a lot less friendly to work on than yours, apparently. I guess even in 1974 engineers hated mechanics!
Excellent video!
You Need A Longer 1/4 inch Extension..lol. jk. Thank You Bro For All Your Videos. Genius Level Mechanics. 👍
for the "quick tip" part, just put grease on the nut & it will stick to the socket & won't fall out.
Great one!
Great info... Currently working on my 73 with no factory a/c but it has aftermarket a/c set up.... But it seems kinda easy but s lil time consuming but dealing with it
Good luck with your project!
Thank you for making this video.
Our pleasure!
Thanks have to replace my son's tomorrow on his Suburban.
Good luck with your project!
Thank you so much I really appreciate your videos 👍👍💯💯
Our pleasure!
Thanks man just changed my heater core on my 82 k5 blazer
Solid!
Best video on this now time to get to work
Thank you!
It's been awhile since I've done a heater core so I decided to look up a video to give me a refresher. The books telling me to do things that aren't required. Speaking of things that aren't required let's discuss those two studs that are at the bottom of the airbox going through the firewall especially the one that's near impossible to get to. I could not get to it. I was going to remove my fender well but somebody modified things that can't be removed without cutting them so I cut a hole in the fender well where that nut was. Once I got everything out I realized that putting those studs in from that direction was such a horrible design. They could have easily fixed a stud to the firewall with a thin nut holding it in place and had access to remove the nuts that hold it in from the interior rather than the firewall. If I didn't know better I would say it was a deliberate asshole design. So when I put this air box back in I'm going to put two studs in that firewall with a thin nut holding them in place permanently. If I ever need to remove the air box in the firewall it's a simple as doing the very thing I have to do anyways and then removing those two little thin nuts that hold those studs in and the whole thing will come out with the air box in the firewall. All they had to do was flip those two studs around. Book says this is 3 to 4 hour job. When you eliminate that one stud with that nut you can't reach this becomes an hour maximum. It literally took me about 10 minutes once I got past that.
I just discovered that I could have installed a copper, brass heater core for about $70 more than the aluminum one that I installed. If this aluminum one doesn't last I am going to be very disturbed. I would have bought the copper, brass one had I known. This job was way too much labor for me to do again. But If I live that long (Iam 87 now) I guess I will do It again. I just can't trust many mechanics. wil
The Aluminum core will likely outlast the original Copper core and it will be more efficient at heating your Trucks Cab along the way. We used the Aluminum core in our Truck that's shown in this video and have ZERO regrets about it.
Thank you sir video was great very helpful
Our pleasure!
Great video as usual! Is there any chance you have a video for the 67-72 C10 with A/C heater core replacement? I figure it's basically the same, but I can't find a single video showing it done with factory A/C. Thanks in advance for your response.
Exactly what I told my mom I should do is do the AC and the heat are cool all at once but she wants me to do the heat accord and then go back and do everything all over again
One and done would be the right move!
Great detailed video.
Thank you for the kudos!
Just saw this really wanted video of yours because… I need to replace my heater core on my 1988 K5 blazer! I saw another video and ran scared of the trouble the other guys went through. Nonetheless, your process seems a little more reasonable. What differences should I expect to find against this truck model you performed this job with? Now, my vacuum lives do not seem to be working at all since air comes out of everywhere on whichever position I place my controls. Any advice you may provide me before I order my parts and start my job? Thanks a million !
It will be very similar to this if not exact. Some of the parts may be different due to updates, but mostly everything still functions the same from 73-87. Thanks for watching.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV thanks muchly . Can you pinpoint for me where the vacuum originates in the engine?
Merry Christmas and a happy 2022!
@@calircpilot4261 That varies wildly from year to year, so to pinpoint it on your application is tough for us from behind the keyboard here. What we can do is guide you in the right direction. Typical vacuum lines originate from behind the carb or throttle body, and pull full vacuum from the manifold and not ported vacuum from the carb/throttle body or another source. Most likely you will find a port on top of the manifold with an adapter that has multiple outlets for various sizes of vacuum hose.
Anybody else notice that the fuel line is wrapped around the AC accumulator to keep the fuel cool when its hot out. Not too bad of an Idea.
If it's hot enough to run the AC, it's hot enough to boil fuel. Just a simple mod to keep things running like they should.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV Exactly what I was thinking when i made the comment. 👍
I have yet to see anyone talk about the air cleaner system i have a 1982 gmc s15 high sierra and a lot of hoses are missing, cut or disconnected. If you could do a rundown on that you would be like the only one to cover that on youtube
We'll look into it. Thanks for the suggestion.
Good job!
You could go as far as removing the inner fender as well
I'm watching, great info.
Thank you for watching!
My trucks been sitting for 15ish years before I bought it, mostly in fields. I want to go threw all this to get it out of the way and figured I should replace the vacuum pods mentioned while I’m in there. In the site I only see them for a 67-72 a/c air box vent actuator and the 67-72 firewall vent actuator. Are the vacuum pods for the 72 the same as they would be for a 74?
Unfortunately 73-87 Vac Pods are on an extended backorder. It's unlikely we'll see any back in stock until summer of 2021.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV bummer, thank you. I will keep an eye for them to change at a later date when they are in stock.
Good video
Thanks for watching!
Thanks.
I'm not sure if I've ever had to jaggle before. I'm gonna develope a situation where I need to jaggle.
Thanks for the great information
Our pleasure!
Ive got tons of sunflower seeds and insulation pieces from a rodent that made the heater core housing its home as you mentioned. I cleaned one side by removing the plastic pieces you show in your video giving me access through the blend door opening but cant access the side closer to the blower motor. Will removing the blower motor give me access to the housing box so i dont have to completely remove it like in your video?
What would be the best way to clean these plastic air ducts? Truck im working on has been sitting with animals (mice) living in it. Has a smell to it. Would warm soapy water be enough to do the trick?
Yeah, start with warm soapy water and move up if that doesn't work to something like Simple Green.
What's the best brand Heater core, or should I have my Original OEM one rebuilt, it isn't leaking 14:08 leaking but I'm installing new carpet and I don’t want to chance it leaking on my new carpet its a 1975 Chevy K10? Lmk cuz I'm going to start soon.
The original foam came off of the flap/blend doors. Is this a requirement? I have an 1980 K10, any good places to get the seal kit for the heater box?
I'm looking for all the vacuum actuators for a 86 C15
Sry C10.
check out what's available on our website at www.brotherstrucks.com
I think we could use a detailed step-by-step explanation on how to replace that little plastic piece that opens and closes the vent door. The little white plastic piece that always breaks.
Thanks for the suggestion! We'll check it out.
My plastic door cabled piece was broken also
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV yessir thanks
@@bigrigbilee mine too
Do I have to put that big ac tube in seen at 12:40 if i deleted the ac?
As long as you've plugged the outputs from the air box that go to that plenum, you don't have to replace it. However, you won't be able to use the vent option to get fresh air from the drivers side vent unless you replace that plenum.
Doing my 86 right now and it appears to have a one piece cover on the heater box so it looks like i have to pull out a pivot shaft from a divider door .
I have a 1979 c10 that is leaking coolant in the passenger side of the cab. Both the ac and heater don’t work would this fix my leaking problem?
Absolutely 100%, that's exactly the problem we had before we replaced the heater core on this truck.
Wow they sure dont make them like they used Too. Barely had to pull anything out of that truck to remove the box. These newer cars you gotta remove the column and whole dash
Would this procedure be the same for a '76 El Camino?
No clue, we don't do anything with El Caminos. Sorry
Can you do a heater core replacement on a 67-72 GMC or C10 pickup with factory A/C ?
We'll look into that one. Thanks for the suggestion.
Where can I get the vacuum lines? I need to replace 2 vacuum lines..
So the entire blend door unit on mine was plastic so I have to take the whole thing apart to get the core out of it
What year is your truck?
My ac equipped 86 c10 has a plastic plate that covers the entire heater core up to the inlet and outlet and after I removed the 4 screws from the blender chamber and the cable bracket, I still can't get the whole heater cover to lift up. Only the inlet end will lift up a half an inch. It's binding up at the blender door hinge area and I've removed every screw and clip I could see. All vacuum pots are plastic. I haven't removed any of the operating rods connecting any of the posts to their doors yet. Any advice?
Did you remove the bracket on top of the unit that the cable attaches to? Also, did you remove the two screws that Dave mentions at 7:20? It's not normally necessary, but maybe your box needs a little extra flex to get the blender door out?
I had to remove the shaft for the I think is the bilevel door and disconnect the said pod from that connector rod. However the plastic mount for that rod broke on me thanks for the reply!
@@jameshendrickson8159 Well dang, that sucks...
I would love it if you could tell me where those seats came from
We sell them here at www.brotherstrucks.com
BTW, they are amazingly comfortable too!
Hey my gmc 1978 heater doesn’t work will this help it and do you have a video on how to fix it
That's going to depend on why your heater doesn't work now. If your heater hoses are disconnected from the heater core, then this is probably why they disconnected them and it definitely will help, but if you've got something else going on then ???
Where can I get seats like those?
Hey those seats in that truck are really nice. Can you tell us about them so we can upgrade to ones like that, or if you already made a vid about them shoot me a link
We have a video here: th-cam.com/video/LSGCZOetQLI/w-d-xo.html and we also carry these seats and door panels on our website at www.brotherstrucks.com in the 73-87 Interior Section of the site.
Thanks
What brand of core do you recommend? I just put a Spectra (that came in a Murray box, go figure) in mine and it fit like garbage. Some liberal application of a small hammer got it to fit into the module, but I'm not opposed to doing the job again if there's a different brand that fits decently.
Side note: the design of the factory heater core is laughable. There's nothing wrong with mine, but it allows so little airflow that my heater couldn't keep the windshield defrosted at speed.
We always recommend using what we carry in our product line. We've installed them all, sorted out what fits best, and what we feel represents the best quality. Doing these videos gives us a lot of opportunity to test parts, that's a bonus for us and you. Here's a link to the Heater Core section of our website: www.brotherstrucks.com/Heater-Cores-Hoses/products/2334/
At 9:44 the bracket that you have where can I find one? Or what is the part number on that
We don't sell that, we suggest you try eBay or a junk yard. As far as we know its not available.
So what would cause coolant coming through the dash? Would this be it?
yep, that's probably your problem. If the heater core leaks, coolant can come through the vents and also drip from the heater box.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV alright thanks. I need to replace my radiator too would it be better to replace the heater core and radiator at the same time so I don’t have to flush the coolant twice and basically waste it?
@@funtime_fire2907 Yeah, that makes good sense.
Can you guys @ (BTP) make video on how to Muncie 4soeed or Turbo400 transmission swap on 1960-72 Chevy/ Gmc truck.
Are you in SoCal? A lot of times when we're doing a video we need a truck to do it on, so it helps to have one available.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV Nope I'm in eastcoast era
@@malikdigger4544 Bummer... we'll add your request to our list anyway! Thanks for the suggestion.
How much would it cost for a shop to do this minus parts? how much money in labor does this save about
Is draining the radiator really necessary? Cant I just tie the hoses up to the hood? Thanks for the great video
You could, we just prefer draining the coolant and then putting in fresh stuff when the job is done. Good luck with your project!
Also, where can I find all necessary pieces for the ac compressor mounting bracket?
Regarding the bracket for the Compressor, that's going to be easiest to find at a salvage yard. You could also try your local GM dealer, but that could get expensive really fast.
do you have a link to that vacuum pod on the hvac unit? tried looking on the site but wasn't able to find it haha
www.brotherstrucks.com/67-72-A_C-AIRBOX-VENT-ACTUATOR/productinfo/VA0721S/
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV thanks!
Is this the same in a 1990 suburban?? It all looks the same idk why the model years show different mine is a 90 and it looks just like every 73-87 I've ever seen. I need to do mine.
Yes, 1990 Suburban is the same as the 1987 Truck.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV thank you, I appreciate it! Just learning this all. Also thank you for the video. I don't feel as intimidated now going into it.
Is it ok to restore my factory ac or is better to buy a new ac system ?
Restoring the factory AC can be extremely expensive if parts are missing, and sometimes replacing it with an aftermarket unit is far more economical. However, if your factory AC is mostly intact, then we recommend restoring the factory unit.
BROTHERS Truck Parts thank you very much !!
Hello,i have an 88 blazer and every so often while driving my ac will stop working and no air whatsoever will come through the vents.Where do you think the problem lies,a faulty low pressure ac switch,bad resistor,or a failing blower motor,thanks for any help!
It's going to be something like the Fan Switch, Resistor or Motor. Low pressure switch would just make the air stop being cold, not stop blowing altogether.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV Thank you,by the fan switch you mean the selector of low to high settings?
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV and would the fan switch be the low to high knob or the one that chooses the different areas of ac or heat?
@@speedwayman100 The low to high switch.
@@speedwayman100 www.brotherstrucks.com/1984-91-CHEVY_GMC-TRUCK-SWITCH-ALL/productinfo/HSW87AC/
How much would it cost to get a shop to do this minus parts, just the labor. How much money is all that saving?
Estimate runs from 800-1,000. Parts are 100-120.00.
Almost all cost is labor
holy fuel line... what does wraping it around the ac do?
Keeps the fuel cooler whenever the AC is on. Helps when it's really hot outside and underhood temps get high. Nothing fancy, just an old Hot Rodding trick.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV wow that's awesome!
It took you 14:08 it take me 36.10hours 😭😭😭
This project took us about 6.5 hours too, we just cut out all the cussing and yelling!
😂 means it takes me a week then.
I notice the fuel line wrapped around the condenser. Is this a southern thing because of high heat?
Some old time mechanic out here in CA did that. He said it keeps the fuel from boiling on hot days when you run the AC
Can you guy take look at your air conditioner. I just pai 600 dollars and the next person I took it to messed it up what can you do for me
Not really sure what you're asking us to look at John, can you be more specific about the problems you're having?
Why is it all the videos I look for on you tube cover everything EXCEPT 1988? They all skip over 1988.
Not a lot of people doing 1988-98 stuff yet.
Woulda been more helpful about a year and a half ago😂
Timing is everything! Thank you for watching!
Six months ago for me. Oh well.
Would an 89 Suburban follow the same procedure to change heater core
Same body as the 87 Truck, so it's going be really close if not exactly the same.
I had to put a new heater core in my 86 6.2 deisel truck
We hope the video helped!
Electric Ratchet man, save your wrist. You don't realize how much you use your wrist until it's painful to do anything.
I don't understand the need for people to post comments like this. Why don't you just watch a ratchet video? Do you know what would happen if he used an electric ratchet in this video? Everyone would bitch that they don't have one and therefore can't do the job themselves. Do you see how useless your comment is?