Hi 1ST gear ratio in a 727 is 2 45 so in first gear its actually 2.45 × output shaft speed to be correct. I learnt this from Mr Gill Youner him self , a great man with a world of experience and knowledge bles his soul we will never forget
I have bent wrenches since before I left elementary school. It was a haphazard of having a step father who was an ASE Master Tech for Chrysler. Yes I started by handing wrenches to him while he did side work in the driveway. My summers were spent at his shop cleaning and being a housemouse. Beat chips and the crappy 3 stations we had in the 80's on TV. I have always had a sever addiction and love of flying. The majority of what is used in the mechanical world in the last few decades are the product of Aviation and Military. If we are talking durability and performance. I don't give 3 rotor blades about a jet that can do Mach 27. If it can't do it over and over it was just a lot of money wasted. At 15 I took apart a whole 1956 Ford F-100 that had been in my father's family it's whole life. I had ambition to make it new. I had it running and driveable out of my own pocket. It was taken apart when I was told by my mother it wasn't mine. Joined the Army as a Helicopter mechanic. I am now an A&P and dig Titanium. Trucks, Bikes, Cars all became hobby. My Harley I studied hard and built so it was juice different. I can run 400 miles in a day. Or put grape juice in and hit the quarter. I built for durability plus a happy face when I twist the wick. My 727 (funny Boeing makes those too) Journey is this. Everyman is on some budget or another. I am just below the 20K level. So I make up for it working on my own stuff. If I have to cut corners and take time (gives me time to give components study/harmony) to save. That is fine. Good things come to those who work hard and wait. With this all said. I was a master driver in the Army and yes HMMWV's under NVG's in the mud at night doing jumps when nobody see's is fun. Now I own a 83 Ram Charger that I am slowly building a 360 Stroker for. EQ heads 2.02 1.60 10.5-1 comp JE-KB or Weisco pistons Hypers, strong valve train (Stock roller lifters, better pushrods, some of dem orange Harland Sharp roller rockers), good 2000-4000 RPMish cam (not sure yet), redline 6,000 ( Piston speed ^v RPM X Stroke Divided by 6 ='s piston speed. 4,000 F'PM should not be exceeded without mods). 4.10 gears dana 60 rear, 44 front, 208 XNSFR case and never larger than 34's. Thinking about a spring lift nothing more than 4" Daily driver, bug on the window. Get out of the city and away. Durable, and able to hold 375-425 Hp 400-450 Ft. Lbs. Yet be my daily when I am not on my bike. I am sold on the reybestos red disks. I would like to find a 5 spool steel planetary gear set, also the large drum that handles more disks. Do not like the factory designed sprag. That was the hippies on LSD playing with first generation computers in the engineering department during tour day at the factory.. So here is what I ask. If you were to build a 727 with everything you know, or maybe if you really know a portion well and not the whole thing. For what I just described. What would be your build sheet? A727 Keep the cash before the crash, leave things alone that don't need messing with, Pay attention to the shitty stuff, build before it breaks, limit it so it never does what we call in the Helicopter world. An Over Speed. Gear head, rotor head and most days trying not to be a Richard Cranium. Part numbers, best prices, small tricks with hand tools. Right now I am blending out the casting flash on my housing. Some say it creates a stress point. I am one who mixes and matches. The build sheet on my Harley makes people shake their heads. Just like my tool box to work on Airplanes. Who makes the best screwdriver? I don't care about brand. Roll in with a Snap-Off family debt that has nothing but Snap-Offs in it. I say go across the street to the bike shop. That's how the Write brothers got started. Every company is better in one department than all others. Real Mechanics on the slow time should talk tools, leadership should encourage it. Time is money and sometimes if the guys get to explain why they have what they have. Then have them compete I.E. Dykes cutting nails. Then the best pair wins. Everyone scraps a company for one that does a better job. Used to smoke when the Snap-Off truck showed up to the hangar. Everyone would run out to pay them dues. Ate a bunch of man hours, not sure what rig was going on. I do know this much. It was in NH and I made a point to be last in line(I loved pissing this guy off). When I stepped on he knew. Him: Yeah you crazy fucking war vet I know I know. Blast ice cream truck music and do you got any of them fold out plastic utility knives that are perfect for shadowing a toolbox after fine honing? Sorry for such a long bullshit rant. Dig on factory ideas made better.
Joe, the 727 internals are very strong by design. I'd get a good high pressure automatic shift valve body, good clutches and bands (rigid 2nd gear band), billet servos and you'd be good. You can upgrade to the ultimate sprag, but it won't be necessary. You can use 4 thick frictions, or 5 think frictions in your stock drum. Get a good (not cheap or restrictive) cooler. I wouldn't use a billet 3rd gear drum. But, in lieu of using the factory drum, I always upgrade to the Ultimate 16 roller sprag. Hope this helps some..
32,000 rpm free-spinning with the drum only being "spin-tested" all by itself or 32,000 rpm with all the loads applied to it that the drum experiences in actual operation? How many Mopar drag cars capable of 6000-rpm launches are even running a TorqueFlite trans period much less a TF "new" enough to have a "powder-forged drum"? And how much "horsepower" (so many aftermarket trans upgrades/rebuilds/parts are "rated" for "horsepower" instead of TORQUE but that's mainly because most "transmission builders" and their customers are clueless and the rest are "crooked") does it take to get 6000-rpm stall trans-brake "launches" anyway? Are "powder-forged drums" even found in actual 727 TorqueFlites or are they found in the light-duty OD TorqueFlite "descendants" such as the A518 or 4XRH/E transmissions? You also mention 2-3 shifts. By "2-3 shifts" do you mean actual 2nd gear-3rd gear shifts or "low-gear to 2nd-gear shifts" with the trans starting out in "low gear" which is "2nd gear" ratio-wise the way TorqueFlites operate when 1st get isn't manually-selected? If I'm not mistaken a TorqueFlite has two "low gears" depending on whether or not the transmission shifter is placed into "low gear" and otherwise it "starts" in 2nd gear. The front band is applied in "manual low" gear AND reverse which is where that "exploding sprag" comes into play. A trans brake can act as a brake by putting the trans in "low" and "reverse" at once but if the transmission is in a forward gear and in a TorqueFlite if the trans is in "manual low", the sprag doesn't come into play since that "exploding drum" isn't going to SPIN regardless with the FRONT BAND applied and holding it stationary. Now in SECOND GEAR that might be a different story but in second gear the ratio is also 1.45:1 and not "lets say 2.50". And regardless that drum isn't going to "flash" to any multiple of "engine rpm" since ENGINE RPM and TORQUE CONVERTER IMPELLER RPM are two different things ENTIRELY. In fact, when the TRANS BRAKE IS "ON" THE INPUT SHAFT OF THE TRANS ISN'T EVEN TURNING AND THE "PUMP" OF THE TORQUE-CONVERTER WHiCH IS THE OUTER HOUSING IS DRIVING THE TRANS PUMP TO PROVIDE THE OIL TO APPLY THE "ELEMENTS" APPLIED TO HAVE THE TRANS "IN GEAR" AND ALSO THE "BRAKE" ELEMENT BUT THE TRANS INPUT SHAFT IS STATIONARY. NOT TURNING AT ALL. IF IT WERE TURNING AND THE TRANS WERE IN GEAR EITHER THE TRANS WOULD HAVE TO BE SLIPPING OR THE DRIVESHAFT AND REAR TIRES TURNING. After all, trans brakes exist because the "foot brake" on a low-geared, lightweight, high-horsepower, high-stall vehicle with all the TORQUE MULTIPLICATION A TORQUE CONVERTER CREATES IN A STALL CONDITION combined with the TORQUE MULTIPLICATION OF THE TRANSMISSION ITSELF doesn't have enough rear brake "holding power" to prevent the rear tires from turning long before the high-horsepower engine gets to "full stall" and maximum converter slippage/torque multiplication. Especially in a "stock" vehicle with "stock" brakes with a dual-circuit braking system and proportioning valve that "biases" the braking force to the front wheels when the vehicle is "nose down". Which is the case with most street/strip vehicles with "bigs" in the rear and "littles" in the front when they're at the line. Foot-braking also tends to "wrap up" the rear suspension of many "stock" vehicles and lift the ass-end even higher. Forward weight bias is a bad thing so even if the brakes CAN hold the engine/converter its beneficial to use a TRANS BRAKE to keep the rear-end low and "loaded" as much as possible. Maybe TorqueFlites are weak enough that "manual low" launches aren't possible regardless and you're putting the trans in "low gear" which is actually 2nd gear and "reverse" so the front drum is "slipping" inside the front band or the "brake" is engaging a reverse element but NOT the front band OR the front band is "left out" of a "competition" TorqueFlite trans or a VERY light application pressure is being used or some other "mad scientist" transmission modification is occurring. Maybe its the crazy high line pressures achieved when something breaks loose and the engine/converter pump speed "flashes" and that crazy high line pressure explodes the drum but the "fix" for those kinds of situations where modifications are being made that result in the transmission exploding not because parts fail but because the person performing the modifications is doing something "risky" trying to turn a TorqueFlite into a TurboHydramatic PowerGlide is to stop charging people insane amounts of money to modify a TorqueFlite to do something it can't do "safely" and to point the customer toward a POWERGLIDE or OTHER transmission that CAN BE SAFELY BUILT/MODIFIED instead.
The drums are destructive tested by free spinning until failure, without anything in them. Do you know how long the aluminum 727 Chrysler torqueflite and it's overdrive version were made? From 1962-2006. The drums WERE ALL POWDER FORGED. From 1971 to 2006, the high gear drum was the exact same part. How many mopar drag cars are capable of 6000rpm launches? Pretty much all of the drag race cars we build transmissions for are capable. Capable because of trans-brakes, and high stall converters. If you are familiar with a class called competition eliminator they launch at a very high RPM and sometimes shift at 10k rpm OR HIGHER. And, before you ask, YES they use a version of the torqueflite transmission. By 2-3 shift I meant 2-3 shift. For someone who claims to know a lot about automatic transmissions, saying that low gear is 2nd gear is quite foolish of you. No, low gear is not second gear, LOW GEAR IS FIRST GEAR. Second is SECOND, or Intermediate (nomenclature), and THIRD gear is DIRECT DRIVE, or HIGH GEAR. So, YES I can say "about 2.50:1 for first gear ratio" as the STOCK 1ST gear ratio is 2.45. I rounded the number-up to make the math easier for folks. Stock valve bodies do not apply to what I am saying here, as we use a manual shift valve body that differs in comparison to an oem valve body. The manual shift valve bodies we use APPLY the low/reverse band in first gear. Despite all of what you say or claim (which is mostly inaccurate) THIS IS WHAT HAPPENS WHEN THE SPRAG FAILS IN A 3 SPEED TORQUEFLITE: When the sprag or over-running clutch fails the transmission's gear train will OVER SPEED at roughly Engine RPM X first gear ratio. Yes, it is not the entire engine rpm because of converter slippage (that you were actually right about). This happens in first gear.. AGAIN manual first in our transmission's means that the low band AND the over-running clutch are applied, in addition to the forward clutch pack. This almost ALWAYS happens after a driveline, or differential failure THE RUN PRIOR. This event can (and has) happened with or without a trans-brake. As soon as the foot brake or trans-brake is released, the car starts to move off of the starting line, the L/R band can no longer hold the L/R drum because of the failed over-running clutch. THE FRONT (or 2nd gear band) IS NOT APPLIED IN FIRST GEAR LIKE YOU CLAIM. The entire gear train over speeds, (the car is no longer moving) and the first thing to explode is the STOCK/OEM powder forged direct drum. It explodes of out the case, and through the floor of the car. I've witnessed this happen, but I've thankfully never had one of mine explode. THIS IS DUE TO GOOD BUILD PRACTICES, AND USING THE CORRECT BILLET DRUMS. Again I will remind you--The STOCK/OEM high gear drum will start to come apart at 9800 rpm. There should really be no argument here... Just to let you know, this explosion hazard is NOT only common to 727 Torqueflite. TH400's can AND have exploded the stock direct drums in drag race/high rpm situations. People putting automatic transmissions in neutral at the finish line with stock drums often have explosions as well, which is a whole different can of worms that I likely won't even try to discuss with you. So, your opinion that TH style transmissions are better than Chrysler 3 speeds IS STRAIT BS. Have a good day....
@@andrewsracingtrans too many people post that don't understand how a transmission really works. In a 727 (and other transmissions as well) that high gear drum upgrade is number 1!
I just wish I knew as much s you to make perfection for what I need on a budget of sorts. Starving college student. So pieces at a time on a GI Bill ride.
Hi 1ST gear ratio in a 727 is 2 45 so in first gear its actually 2.45 × output shaft speed to be correct. I learnt this from Mr Gill Youner him self , a great man with a world of experience and knowledge bles his soul we will never forget
I have bent wrenches since before I left elementary school. It was a haphazard of having a step father who was an ASE Master Tech for Chrysler. Yes I started by handing wrenches to him while he did side work in the driveway. My summers were spent at his shop cleaning and being a housemouse. Beat chips and the crappy 3 stations we had in the 80's on TV.
I have always had a sever addiction and love of flying. The majority of what is used in the mechanical world in the last few decades are the product of Aviation and Military. If we are talking durability and performance.
I don't give 3 rotor blades about a jet that can do Mach 27. If it can't do it over and over it was just a lot of money wasted.
At 15 I took apart a whole 1956 Ford F-100 that had been in my father's family it's whole life. I had ambition to make it new. I had it running and driveable out of my own pocket. It was taken apart when I was told by my mother it wasn't mine.
Joined the Army as a Helicopter mechanic. I am now an A&P and dig Titanium.
Trucks, Bikes, Cars all became hobby. My Harley I studied hard and built so it was juice different. I can run 400 miles in a day. Or put grape juice in and hit the quarter. I built for durability plus a happy face when I twist the wick.
My 727 (funny Boeing makes those too) Journey is this. Everyman is on some budget or another. I am just below the 20K level. So I make up for it working on my own stuff. If I have to cut corners and take time (gives me time to give components study/harmony) to save. That is fine. Good things come to those who work hard and wait.
With this all said.
I was a master driver in the Army and yes HMMWV's under NVG's in the mud at night doing jumps when nobody see's is fun.
Now I own a 83 Ram Charger that I am slowly building a 360 Stroker for. EQ heads 2.02 1.60 10.5-1 comp JE-KB or Weisco pistons Hypers, strong valve train (Stock roller lifters, better pushrods, some of dem orange Harland Sharp roller rockers), good 2000-4000 RPMish cam (not sure yet), redline 6,000 ( Piston speed ^v RPM X Stroke Divided by 6 ='s piston speed. 4,000 F'PM should not be exceeded without mods). 4.10 gears dana 60 rear, 44 front, 208 XNSFR case and never larger than 34's. Thinking about a spring lift nothing more than 4" Daily driver, bug on the window.
Get out of the city and away. Durable, and able to hold 375-425 Hp 400-450 Ft. Lbs. Yet be my daily when I am not on my bike.
I am sold on the reybestos red disks. I would like to find a 5 spool steel planetary gear set, also the large drum that handles more disks.
Do not like the factory designed sprag. That was the hippies on LSD playing with first generation computers in the engineering department during tour day at the factory..
So here is what I ask. If you were to build a 727 with everything you know, or maybe if you really know a portion well and not the whole thing. For what I just described. What would be your build sheet? A727
Keep the cash before the crash, leave things alone that don't need messing with, Pay attention to the shitty stuff, build before it breaks, limit it so it never does what we call in the Helicopter world. An Over Speed.
Gear head, rotor head and most days trying not to be a Richard Cranium. Part numbers, best prices, small tricks with hand tools. Right now I am blending out the casting flash on my housing. Some say it creates a stress point.
I am one who mixes and matches. The build sheet on my Harley makes people shake their heads. Just like my tool box to work on Airplanes. Who makes the best screwdriver? I don't care about brand. Roll in with a Snap-Off family debt that has nothing but Snap-Offs in it. I say go across the street to the bike shop. That's how the Write brothers got started.
Every company is better in one department than all others. Real Mechanics on the slow time should talk tools, leadership should encourage it. Time is money and sometimes if the guys get to explain why they have what they have. Then have them compete I.E. Dykes cutting nails. Then the best pair wins. Everyone scraps a company for one that does a better job.
Used to smoke when the Snap-Off truck showed up to the hangar. Everyone would run out to pay them dues. Ate a bunch of man hours, not sure what rig was going on. I do know this much. It was in NH and I made a point to be last in line(I loved pissing this guy off). When I stepped on he knew.
Him: Yeah you crazy fucking war vet I know I know. Blast ice cream truck music and do you got any of them fold out plastic utility knives that are perfect for shadowing a toolbox after fine honing?
Sorry for such a long bullshit rant. Dig on factory ideas made better.
Joe, the 727 internals are very strong by design.
I'd get a good high pressure automatic shift valve body, good clutches and bands (rigid 2nd gear band), billet servos and you'd be good. You can upgrade to the ultimate sprag, but it won't be necessary.
You can use 4 thick frictions, or 5 think frictions in your stock drum.
Get a good (not cheap or restrictive) cooler.
I wouldn't use a billet 3rd gear drum. But, in lieu of using the factory drum, I always upgrade to the Ultimate 16 roller sprag. Hope this helps some..
Good video dude
Can you switch to the late model Belleville spring in the early clutch easily?
Yes you can
Yes steel much better ,
GOOD broject .👍
No wonder its dear, big chunk of billet 4140!
That thing is stupid expensive
There is a tax on anything chrysler!
32,000 rpm free-spinning with the drum only being "spin-tested" all by itself or 32,000 rpm with all the loads applied to it that the drum experiences in actual operation? How many Mopar drag cars capable of 6000-rpm launches are even running a TorqueFlite trans period much less a TF "new" enough to have a "powder-forged drum"? And how much "horsepower" (so many aftermarket trans upgrades/rebuilds/parts are "rated" for "horsepower" instead of TORQUE but that's mainly because most "transmission builders" and their customers are clueless and the rest are "crooked") does it take to get 6000-rpm stall trans-brake "launches" anyway? Are "powder-forged drums" even found in actual 727 TorqueFlites or are they found in the light-duty OD TorqueFlite "descendants" such as the A518 or 4XRH/E transmissions? You also mention 2-3 shifts. By "2-3 shifts" do you mean actual 2nd gear-3rd gear shifts or "low-gear to 2nd-gear shifts" with the trans starting out in "low gear" which is "2nd gear" ratio-wise the way TorqueFlites operate when 1st get isn't manually-selected? If I'm not mistaken a TorqueFlite has two "low gears" depending on whether or not the transmission shifter is placed into "low gear" and otherwise it "starts" in 2nd gear. The front band is applied in "manual low" gear AND reverse which is where that "exploding sprag" comes into play.
A trans brake can act as a brake by putting the trans in "low" and "reverse" at once but if the transmission is in a forward gear and in a TorqueFlite if the trans is in "manual low", the sprag doesn't come into play since that "exploding drum" isn't going to SPIN regardless with the FRONT BAND applied and holding it stationary. Now in SECOND GEAR that might be a different story but in second gear the ratio is also 1.45:1 and not "lets say 2.50". And regardless that drum isn't going to "flash" to any multiple of "engine rpm" since ENGINE RPM and TORQUE CONVERTER IMPELLER RPM are two different things ENTIRELY. In fact, when the TRANS BRAKE IS "ON" THE INPUT SHAFT OF THE TRANS ISN'T EVEN TURNING AND THE "PUMP" OF THE TORQUE-CONVERTER WHiCH IS THE OUTER HOUSING IS DRIVING THE TRANS PUMP TO PROVIDE THE OIL TO APPLY THE "ELEMENTS" APPLIED TO HAVE THE TRANS "IN GEAR" AND ALSO THE "BRAKE" ELEMENT BUT THE TRANS INPUT SHAFT IS STATIONARY. NOT TURNING AT ALL. IF IT WERE TURNING AND THE TRANS WERE IN GEAR EITHER THE TRANS WOULD HAVE TO BE SLIPPING OR THE DRIVESHAFT AND REAR TIRES TURNING.
After all, trans brakes exist because the "foot brake" on a low-geared, lightweight, high-horsepower, high-stall vehicle with all the TORQUE MULTIPLICATION A TORQUE CONVERTER CREATES IN A STALL CONDITION combined with the TORQUE MULTIPLICATION OF THE TRANSMISSION ITSELF doesn't have enough rear brake "holding power" to prevent the rear tires from turning long before the high-horsepower engine gets to "full stall" and maximum converter slippage/torque multiplication. Especially in a "stock" vehicle with "stock" brakes with a dual-circuit braking system and proportioning valve that "biases" the braking force to the front wheels when the vehicle is "nose down". Which is the case with most street/strip vehicles with "bigs" in the rear and "littles" in the front when they're at the line. Foot-braking also tends to "wrap up" the rear suspension of many "stock" vehicles and lift the ass-end even higher. Forward weight bias is a bad thing so even if the brakes CAN hold the engine/converter its beneficial to use a TRANS BRAKE to keep the rear-end low and "loaded" as much as possible.
Maybe TorqueFlites are weak enough that "manual low" launches aren't possible regardless and you're putting the trans in "low gear" which is actually 2nd gear and "reverse" so the front drum is "slipping" inside the front band or the "brake" is engaging a reverse element but NOT the front band OR the front band is "left out" of a "competition" TorqueFlite trans or a VERY light application pressure is being used or some other "mad scientist" transmission modification is occurring. Maybe its the crazy high line pressures achieved when something breaks loose and the engine/converter pump speed "flashes" and that crazy high line pressure explodes the drum but the "fix" for those kinds of situations where modifications are being made that result in the transmission exploding not because parts fail but because the person performing the modifications is doing something "risky" trying to turn a TorqueFlite into a TurboHydramatic PowerGlide is to stop charging people insane amounts of money to modify a TorqueFlite to do something it can't do "safely" and to point the customer toward a POWERGLIDE or OTHER transmission that CAN BE SAFELY BUILT/MODIFIED instead.
The drums are destructive tested by free spinning until failure, without anything in them. Do you know how long the aluminum 727 Chrysler torqueflite and it's overdrive version were made? From 1962-2006. The drums WERE ALL POWDER FORGED. From 1971 to 2006, the high gear drum was the exact same part.
How many mopar drag cars are capable of 6000rpm launches? Pretty much all of the drag race cars we build transmissions for are capable. Capable because of trans-brakes, and high stall converters. If you are familiar with a class called competition eliminator they launch at a very high RPM and sometimes shift at 10k rpm OR HIGHER. And, before you ask, YES they use a version of the torqueflite transmission.
By 2-3 shift I meant 2-3 shift. For someone who claims to know a lot about automatic transmissions, saying that low gear is 2nd gear is quite foolish of you. No, low gear is not second gear, LOW GEAR IS FIRST GEAR. Second is SECOND, or Intermediate (nomenclature), and THIRD gear is DIRECT DRIVE, or HIGH GEAR.
So, YES I can say "about 2.50:1 for first gear ratio" as the STOCK 1ST gear ratio is 2.45. I rounded the number-up to make the math easier for folks.
Stock valve bodies do not apply to what I am saying here, as we use a manual shift valve body that differs in comparison to an oem valve body.
The manual shift valve bodies we use APPLY the low/reverse band in first gear.
Despite all of what you say or claim (which is mostly inaccurate) THIS IS WHAT HAPPENS WHEN THE SPRAG FAILS IN A 3 SPEED TORQUEFLITE:
When the sprag or over-running clutch fails the transmission's gear train will OVER SPEED at roughly Engine RPM X first gear ratio. Yes, it is not the entire engine rpm because of converter slippage (that you were actually right about). This happens in first gear.. AGAIN manual first in our transmission's means that the low band AND the over-running clutch are applied, in addition to the forward clutch pack. This almost ALWAYS happens after a driveline, or differential failure THE RUN PRIOR. This event can (and has) happened with or without a trans-brake. As soon as the foot brake or trans-brake is released, the car starts to move off of the starting line, the L/R band can no longer hold the L/R drum because of the failed over-running clutch. THE FRONT (or 2nd gear band) IS NOT APPLIED IN FIRST GEAR LIKE YOU CLAIM. The entire gear train over speeds, (the car is no longer moving) and the first thing to explode is the STOCK/OEM powder forged direct drum. It explodes of out the case, and through the floor of the car. I've witnessed this happen, but I've thankfully never had one of mine explode. THIS IS DUE TO GOOD BUILD PRACTICES, AND USING THE CORRECT BILLET DRUMS. Again I will remind you--The STOCK/OEM high gear drum will start to come apart at 9800 rpm. There should really be no argument here...
Just to let you know, this explosion hazard is NOT only common to 727 Torqueflite. TH400's can AND have exploded the stock direct drums in drag race/high rpm situations. People putting automatic transmissions in neutral at the finish line with stock drums often have explosions as well, which is a whole different can of worms that I likely won't even try to discuss with you. So, your opinion that TH style transmissions are better than Chrysler 3 speeds IS STRAIT BS.
Have a good day....
@@andrewsracingtrans too many people post that don't understand how a transmission really works. In a 727 (and other transmissions as well) that high gear drum upgrade is number 1!
I just wish I knew as much s you to make perfection for what I need on a budget of sorts. Starving college student. So pieces at a time on a GI Bill ride.