Anyone peek that 0-60 in the first 30sec? 😉🔥 ☆OBDEleven: obdeleven.com/?aff=1175& ☆For a 10% DISCOUNT on ANYTHING, type in NEED4BUILT10 in the add discount code section!
Hello. I just had my motor mounts replaced on my 2018 A4. The next day while making a left turn I heard a loud pop from the driver side of my engine and now it sounds like there’s a vacuum leak or something when I accelerate. No clunk, noise, or leaks. Just slightly reduced power and the sound of air when accelerating. Is there anything that the mechanic could have left unfastened that popped off? I want to sound like I know what I’m talking about when I go back to the shop and bring it to their attention. Thanks!
I did the rear subframe and differential mounts at home on jack stands along with rear sway bar and end links. My car currently has 22,000 miles also stage 3+ hybrid turbo. When I end up doing the engine mounts it looks like that would be a good time to add the front sway bar as well. Do you agree?
Mate, did you carry out a 4 wheel alignment after your install as the geometry of the car will out of spec? This would make for some more great B9 content 👍
Hey man. I did my motor mounts your way however, what’s the torque spec on the subframe bolts I did 70FT LBS to not overdo it and a week later I’m hearing ratting. Please advice boss man 😓
Have a b9 s5 and found my mounts leaking at 65k miles. No tune but got the upgraded ones, gonna be real interesting trying to do this on jack stands / blocks lol
I’m not sure what mileage you’re at but most b9 engine mounts collapse or leak fluid out around 50k miles. If you’re in that range is very possible yours are goners. Upgrade to 034’s ones.
Stiffness. The stiffer the mount, the better the torque transfer. I would recommend the track 60 durometer option or even the billet option for optimal performance.
I’ve got a stock b9 s5 sportback, in park I notice there’s a little vibration that I can feel in the seat. It moves the car a little bit as well. The engine itself doesn’t move anymore than it should though. The person that did my oil change last accidentally poured oil all over the engine somehow 😭, do you think maybe the oil got into the mounts and rubber and that’s what’s causing the vibration/movement?
Huge huge difference in power delivery. Putting aside the fact that my engine mounts were torn, and replacing them was a must, these 034 engine mounts were night and day. No more engine movement especially so the power transfer is direct to the drivetrain now with minimal slop and no clunking noises. Massive difference when launching the car. It’s actually stiff. There was a little bit of nvh but that went away after a few hundred miles as the engine mounts settle in. Now it’s next to nothing.
Hahah I like their enthusiasm. The diff inserts are almost harder than the engine mounts in my humble opinion. I’m not sure what scale they use to rate these installs. The ratio of leprechauns to unicorns maybe? Who knows.
the other day I was worried about bringing in my own control arm bushings instead of control arms for my old BMW. They said the old bushings came off easily and charged me around 145 cdn for replacing 2 bushings in my front control arms. it is easy for some shops and hard for others, the right tools make a difference I guess. I wanted to go with Super Pro front control arm bushings, but they need to be special ordered and didn't want to wait. Have you done poly bushings or monoball for the front suspension?
You should do a video explaining every mod on your car. Like I know you have the 810 turbo with the necessary mods, and now motor mounts 😂 But what about handling mods and things of that nature
You guys did that’s all wrong…all you need was to remove ac compressed with no evacuation required and maybe alternator removal of course with engine bridge tool.the way you did it requires alignment with front driver calibration anytime you drop subframe unless you have subframe pins. You totally messed up the front alignment and if anytime you adjust the rear toe the acc and front camera needs to be calibrated. You car can swerve out nowhere
Oh yeah lets do it the most difficult way possible! I needed an alignment either way so dropping the subframe not only saved me 4 hours of labor, but also got a much needed alignment done right after!
Anyone peek that 0-60 in the first 30sec? 😉🔥
☆OBDEleven: obdeleven.com/?aff=1175&
☆For a 10% DISCOUNT on ANYTHING, type in NEED4BUILT10 in the add discount code section!
under 3 seconds bro.. thats just hard to comprehend.
Such a underrated channel, just found your channel
I sincerely appreciate this comment!! Means a ton!
I just did the same on my B9 S4, well worth it.
How long did it take?
Hello. I just had my motor mounts replaced on my 2018 A4. The next day while making a left turn I heard a loud pop from the driver side of my engine and now it sounds like there’s a vacuum leak or something when I accelerate. No clunk, noise, or leaks. Just slightly reduced power and the sound of air when accelerating. Is there anything that the mechanic could have left unfastened that popped off? I want to sound like I know what I’m talking about when I go back to the shop and bring it to their attention. Thanks!
Bonjour , pour cette intervention combien de temp vous avez mis ? 1 heures ?
J’ai un sq5 je doit le faire il vibre au ralentis .
Merci
I did the rear subframe and differential mounts at home on jack stands along with rear sway bar and end links. My car currently has 22,000 miles also stage 3+ hybrid turbo. When I end up doing the engine mounts it looks like that would be a good time to add the front sway bar as well. Do you agree?
Definitely agree. Front paired up with the rear makes that much more of a difference my man.
Mate, did you carry out a 4 wheel alignment after your install as the geometry of the car will out of spec? This would make for some more great B9 content 👍
I got some basic alignment done right after, but I need a professional to perfectly realign the suspension components. I’ll put it on my list! 📈
Hey man. I did my motor mounts your way however, what’s the torque spec on the subframe bolts I did 70FT LBS to not overdo it and a week later I’m hearing ratting. Please advice boss man 😓
Might wanna redo that with the proper torque spec and lock tight..
Have a b9 s5 and found my mounts leaking at 65k miles. No tune but got the upgraded ones, gonna be real interesting trying to do this on jack stands / blocks lol
Easy. I’ve done x8 B9 engine mount job’s on Jack stands. Go for the 034 mounts.
Hi , all of sudden I can feel that vibrations are more obvious in my audi a4 b9 , is it because of the old engine mounts?
I’m not sure what mileage you’re at but most b9 engine mounts collapse or leak fluid out around 50k miles. If you’re in that range is very possible yours are goners. Upgrade to 034’s ones.
The knocking occured on medium-to-hard acceleration from standstill or low speed and reverse? Or always? Or on bumps?
Low speed, and light load acceleration it’s the loudest.
@@Need4Builtthanks!
what is the difference between the 50 and 60 durometer options?
Stiffness. The stiffer the mount, the better the torque transfer. I would recommend the track 60 durometer option or even the billet option for optimal performance.
why going for sq5 instead of q5 tdi ???
I’ve got a stock b9 s5 sportback, in park I notice there’s a little vibration that I can feel in the seat. It moves the car a little bit as well. The engine itself doesn’t move anymore than it should though. The person that did my oil change last accidentally poured oil all over the engine somehow 😭, do you think maybe the oil got into the mounts and rubber and that’s what’s causing the vibration/movement?
I highly doubt that would be an issue, however how many miles are you at? It’s possible your NVH issue could be a motor mount going bad.
@@Need4Built 46k
@@quackattack2002 it’s possible. Mine went bad at 50k. I would get them inspected at the least.
Hows the new engine mounts compare to stock ones in terms of nvh and other
Huge huge difference in power delivery. Putting aside the fact that my engine mounts were torn, and replacing them was a must, these 034 engine mounts were night and day. No more engine movement especially so the power transfer is direct to the drivetrain now with minimal slop and no clunking noises. Massive difference when launching the car. It’s actually stiff. There was a little bit of nvh but that went away after a few hundred miles as the engine mounts settle in. Now it’s next to nothing.
Is the cat less down pipe smell bad on the b9?
Nope no smell at all actually.
On the 034 motorsport website, it says the installation for the diff inserts is only "moderate"
Hahah I like their enthusiasm. The diff inserts are almost harder than the engine mounts in my humble opinion. I’m not sure what scale they use to rate these installs. The ratio of leprechauns to unicorns maybe? Who knows.
the other day I was worried about bringing in my own control arm bushings instead of control arms for my old BMW. They said the old bushings came off easily and charged me around 145 cdn for replacing 2 bushings in my front control arms. it is easy for some shops and hard for others, the right tools make a difference I guess.
I wanted to go with Super Pro front control arm bushings, but they need to be special ordered and didn't want to wait. Have you done poly bushings or monoball for the front suspension?
Love the build man, although this does look tedious I’m sure there’s some gains
Nice man
Going to pull them out soon and see what they look like
ive got a q7 tdi gnna trade it soon could get a sq5 or a range rover or a bmw 550i im not sure yet
Do it! SQ5 for the win
replacing engine mounts at 58k miles is absolutely insane 😂
Why is that? Preventative. Most of these b9 engine mounts fail between 50-70k miles and absolutely destroy themselves.
Im at 103K and mine started to leak. Yeah! 😢
Are you passing emissions? If so how?
I want to put the high flow cat on my b9 I don’t wanna pull it out and replace it with the stock one every time I have to go to emission?
@@lukas-qv6ym We don’t have emissions in WA anymore. I can give you a few tips, suggest you email me before the EPA busts in through the window.
You should do a video explaining every mod on your car. Like I know you have the 810 turbo with the necessary mods, and now motor mounts 😂
But what about handling mods and things of that nature
On my list! Coming soon! I appreciate the idea💡
Спасибо. На моей Q7 4M вытекли опоры. Хочу апгрейд на 034 и вставку в трансмиссию. Канал топ!
You guys did that’s all wrong…all you need was to remove ac compressed with no evacuation required and maybe alternator removal of course with engine bridge tool.the way you did it requires alignment with front driver calibration anytime you drop subframe unless you have subframe pins. You totally messed up the front alignment and if anytime you adjust the rear toe the acc and front camera needs to be calibrated. You car can swerve out nowhere
Oh yeah lets do it the most difficult way possible! I needed an alignment either way so dropping the subframe not only saved me 4 hours of labor, but also got a much needed alignment done right after!
du·rom·e·ter rubber. not duro-meter.
Ah yes thank you 😃
You need chrome delete
Absolutely agree with you!! I have an appointment scheduled with a local vinyl pro.
Engine swap
The factory mounts are the most overengineered piece of crap I’ve ever heard of.
Agreed. Works good but over engineered another failure point.