I think your booster is up side down the grommet should be up on top.Nice job thou i out source my parts find it a lot cheaper going to junk yard even found rear disc out of 2001 camaro to install on rear of my 67 c10 the bolt holes fit in place were the drum bracket was just have to remove the axle to do install.
I did subscribe, haven’t seen this build before as I like to get tips of what works and not so much. I wondered about the 5 O’clock check valve vacuum supply as soon as it went on. For vacuum, I would only be guessing but 9 Hg at idle, but if using the 11” dual diaphragm booster, should work. Others have more or actual experience with that cam. Speedways tech line are good people and may have suggested the dual diaphragm booster. I enjoy the build and the experience of what folks learn and will be watching. I have not spent years building swaps but have a powerful drive inside to know what to do and make it right the first time. Like exhaust manifold bolts breaking. Not everyone has a high speed die grinder and selection of carbide bits. Headers or cast steel, get a drill, chuck at rat tail file into it. Slide a 4-6” pipe from conduit to gas pipe. Elongate the hole to the front & back, as reversing the drill motor climbs up or down. Give it room and place a flat washer under the bolt and will never break. Aluminum expands 2:1 to steel, cast iron or other. It will slide and keep the gasket leak free. Where did Torque to yield bolts come from? For 40+ years, alum head on a cast iron block worked great. It’s only that every 30K miles, using the torque pattern when room temp, break #1 loose, torque. Break #2 loose, Torque. Rinse & repeat. I had customer with imports go 300K and never loose a gasket. If adjustable valve lash, do that after a re-Torque cold and done. Work, maintenance, yes! But remember the silly wing nut SBC rocker cover bolts? That was for setting valve lash on a solid lift camshaft. Been there, done that. Certified Automotive ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired, but active!
Looks good! All of my street Rods I used small block chevy engines , I added Mustang II suspensions added power disk Front Chevy S10 calipers and S10 rear axles (drum) The Small blocks all had plenty of vacuum . . My 1967 Mustang I Did the same front S10 Calipers and an 8" rear Plenty of vacuum in 302 Ford small block. so can't help you there. By the way My 1967 Mustang Fastback I sold a year and a half ago has 800 more miles on it... is currently on Crown Concepts website. it is the white one with blue reflective stripes . Pretty cool to see it on there! Keep up the video's!
The LS makes great vacuum also, but he is using a stage 3 cam, which Is a radical street grind cam that hurts vacuum at idle a bit. I know this is a year old, lol. Just thought I'd drop my thoughts here also. :)
I ordered my brake booster for a 69 C10 from LMC Truck. After install an seeing the severe downward tilt of the booster assembly I called LMC Truck to resolve the issue. They insisted that the part was correct and eventually sent me a return label . I ended up cutting the bracket and rewelding so the brake booster was level. The rear arm comes very close to the firewall but everything seems to be working. The severe downward angle shown in this video is unacceptable. Anyone else have the same problem?
I think your booster is up side down the grommet should be up on top.Nice job thou i out source my parts find it a lot cheaper going to junk yard even found rear disc out of 2001 camaro to install on rear of my 67 c10 the bolt holes fit in place were the drum bracket was just have to remove the axle to do install.
Nice work. Keep it up man!
I did subscribe, haven’t seen this build before as I like to get tips of what works and not so much. I wondered about the 5 O’clock check valve vacuum supply as soon as it went on. For vacuum, I would only be guessing but 9 Hg at idle, but if using the 11” dual diaphragm booster, should work. Others have more or actual experience with that cam. Speedways tech line are good people and may have suggested the dual diaphragm booster. I enjoy the build and the experience of what folks learn and will be watching. I have not spent years building swaps but have a powerful drive inside to know what to do and make it right the first time. Like exhaust manifold bolts breaking. Not everyone has a high speed die grinder and selection of carbide bits. Headers or cast steel, get a drill, chuck at rat tail file into it. Slide a 4-6” pipe from conduit to gas pipe. Elongate the hole to the front & back, as reversing the drill motor climbs up or down. Give it room and place a flat washer under the bolt and will never break. Aluminum expands 2:1 to steel, cast iron or other. It will slide and keep the gasket leak free. Where did Torque to yield bolts come from? For 40+ years, alum head on a cast iron block worked great. It’s only that every 30K miles, using the torque pattern when room temp, break #1 loose, torque. Break #2 loose, Torque. Rinse & repeat. I had customer with imports go 300K and never loose a gasket. If adjustable valve lash, do that after a re-Torque cold and done. Work, maintenance, yes! But remember the silly wing nut SBC rocker cover bolts? That was for setting valve lash on a solid lift camshaft. Been there, done that. Certified Automotive ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired, but active!
Looks good! All of my street Rods I used small block chevy engines , I added Mustang II suspensions added power disk Front Chevy S10 calipers and S10 rear axles (drum) The Small blocks all had plenty of vacuum . . My 1967 Mustang I Did the same front S10 Calipers and an 8" rear Plenty of vacuum in 302 Ford small block. so can't help you there. By the way My 1967 Mustang Fastback I sold a year and a half ago has 800 more miles on it... is currently on Crown Concepts website. it is the white one with blue reflective stripes . Pretty cool to see it on there! Keep up the video's!
The LS makes great vacuum also, but he is using a stage 3 cam, which Is a radical street grind cam that hurts vacuum at idle a bit. I know this is a year old, lol. Just thought I'd drop my thoughts here also. :)
On my 1964 chevy used 1970 on up truck
Why is that unit tilted forward so much??
What do you think labor time is on this if I was writing up a quote for a customer
2 hours plus time to bleed the brakes. But if their old brake lines are rusty, it can quickly change due to have to make new lines.
Firewall bracket upside ?
Universal Brake Pedal/7 Inch Power Booster/1 Inch Master Cylinder Unit is this the one you got?
Can you put a booster and mstrcylnd on drum brakes
You could as long as it is a drum/drum master cylinder. Be careful ordering though because a lot are disc/drum.
@@RustnAway thanks
Why does it leaning forward...?
I ordered my brake booster for a 69 C10 from LMC Truck. After install an seeing the severe downward tilt of the booster assembly I called LMC Truck to resolve the issue. They insisted that the part was correct and eventually sent me a return label . I ended up cutting the bracket and rewelding so the brake booster was level. The rear arm comes very close to the firewall but everything seems to be working. The severe downward angle shown in this video is unacceptable. Anyone else have the same problem?
I`d like to know why it isn`t more level too