Excellent Dave! Not just a nuts and bolts swap out, but an informative explanation as to why the part failed and how to replace it! Thank you Dave, looking forward to next Tuesday!!
I have to give a huge "THANKS!" for that important tip of pulling the booster forward to free the bolt on the brake pedal. I came here hoping I had missed something, and I did.
Great tutorial! It was super easy to follow. I replaced the booster and master cylinder in my 76 C10 but it still feels like the booster isn't fully kicking in. How do I know if the vacuum pump is bad?
Lots of reasons for that. Could be that you have low vacuum in your engine (big camshaft, etc) or you chose a bad source to draw vacuum from. Leaks in the line or possibly even a bad vacuum booster in the first place. check for leaks first and move on from there.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTVWhere would the hissing sound be more pronounced!!! Mines seems to be inside the cab near the rear of the booster. Does that indicate a bad booster? Thanks a million.
It's never as easy as the TH-cam videos show it to be! I'm replacing ALL the brake components on my 1980 Chevy K20 truck. The first problem I ran into is disconnecting the booster rod from the brake pedal. I don't have access to it unless I remove the AC duct under the dash. I can't remove the duct until I remove the emergency brake release rod and I can't remove the rod because it is held in by one of those awful plastic snap in things. I gave up after 30 min. of trying. The must be a tool for removing linkage from them that but I don't have one yet. The K20 has 6 studs with locknuts holding the booster in. I've only been able to remove one nut so far with a long breaker bar. I will have to remove the wiper/washer assembly to access the other 2 nuts on the driver's side. All the nuts below the top 2 have been sprayed with sound deadener (tar) which I'll have to remove before I can get a socket on them. It would also would have helped if I had removed the hood. I may finish by Christmas🙂. This is an excellent video by the way!
A vacuum hiss is one problem, but the check valve rarely fails but can. If you have no noise yet it is harder to stop, run the engine for two minutes. Shut the engine off! If the rubber diaphragm inside the booster and check valve are good, step on the pedal in a normal fashion but count. The pedal drops and brakes apply, but if the pedal is noticeable higher and still hard after two to three pedal stops, the problem my be the check valve or too low engine vacuum if you just swapped camshafts for higher lift, duration and overlap. At this point, as long as the hose and fitting are good, you may chose to get a “Dual Diaphragm” booster or one of the largest diameter that you can fit. That depends on engine placement, higher / tall rocker covers or other interference. Just make sure brakes are free and in working order before jumping off the deep end. Retired ASE Master
we don't have a video for that specific problem. Typically if we can't get them loose with a line wrench, then we escalate the situation and try vice grips. If that doesn't work then you're faced with cutting the lines off and making or buying new ones.
Nice video! Do all trucks have the two support brackets? The one to the booster and master. I noticed my 71 c25 has them and my 70 c10 does not? Do I need to add them? Thanks
My '68 C10 didn't come with a brake booster. I had found a donor from an older square body, but It's been over 15 years since I've done it and can't remember what I had pulled it from.
Hello question my booster makes hard for my oil dipstick cuz of my headers as well. My question is can I change the booster to a smaller one & if so will it affect my brakes ? Can I replace my dipstick & with what?
I was wondering if you would know what to look for since I had my 87 scottsdale engine replaced since it threw a rod. We put in a 350 small block from a 71 camaro and it does not want to shift up into third gear. The guy did a shitty job so any ideas help! Thank you very much
The '87 has a 700r4 transmission with a Throttle Velocity cable that controls the shifting. You need to have someone adjust that cable for the shifts to work right. It sounds like it's too tight right now, but we don't recommend you just loosen it or you could burn the clutch pack. Have someone who knows how to adjust it right do the work, or do a lot of Google searches and know what you're doing before you mess with it.
My 69 GMC 1500 booster has a metal tube that comes out and does a 90 degree downwards. Idk if a hose goes right to it or if there is supposed to be a molded fitting to mate a hose to it? It's about a half in in diameter.
I bleed my brakes no air it's a dual master cylinder I nich bore on my 1963C10 fleetside truck pedal still seems soft when I crank it on I have no brakes master cylinder and booster is new not sure what I'm doing wrong pls help thank you for your spare time
We would love to rebuild that original brake booster for you! Send it to us and we will do it for free in exchange for a brief shout out in your next video.
Excellent Dave! Not just a nuts and bolts swap out, but an informative explanation as to why the part failed and how to replace it!
Thank you Dave, looking forward to next Tuesday!!
I have to give a huge "THANKS!" for that important tip of pulling the booster forward to free the bolt on the brake pedal. I came here hoping I had missed something, and I did.
love your No nonsense approach and easy to understand and follow instructions, keep up the good work buddy
Thank you!
I've been subscribed for years and look forward to your videos!
Thanks man!
Would have been nice to show how you got the old booster apart
The shop change everything 86c10 .Calipers pads master cylinder .Brake hoses . prop valve. rear pads. As soon I hit the brake They lockup.Going crazy
Amazing tutorial! Thanks for your hard work!
Thank you for watching!
Informative!! Love these vids!!!
Thanks!
Great tutorial! It was super easy to follow.
I replaced the booster and master cylinder in my 76 C10 but it still feels like the booster isn't fully kicking in. How do I know if the vacuum pump is bad?
Lots of reasons for that. Could be that you have low vacuum in your engine (big camshaft, etc) or you chose a bad source to draw vacuum from. Leaks in the line or possibly even a bad vacuum booster in the first place. check for leaks first and move on from there.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTVWhere would the hissing sound be more pronounced!!! Mines seems to be inside the cab near the rear of the booster. Does that indicate a bad booster? Thanks a million.
It's never as easy as the TH-cam videos show it to be! I'm replacing ALL the brake components on my 1980 Chevy K20 truck. The first problem I ran into is disconnecting the booster rod from the brake pedal. I don't have access to it unless I remove the AC duct under the dash. I can't remove the duct until I remove the emergency brake release rod and I can't remove the rod because it is held in by one of those awful plastic snap in things. I gave up after 30 min. of trying. The must be a tool for removing linkage from them that but I don't have one yet. The K20 has 6 studs with locknuts holding the booster in. I've only been able to remove one nut so far with a long breaker bar. I will have to remove the wiper/washer assembly to access the other 2 nuts on the driver's side. All the nuts below the top 2 have been sprayed with sound deadener (tar) which I'll have to remove before I can get a socket on them. It would also would have helped if I had removed the hood. I may finish by Christmas🙂. This is an excellent video by the way!
A vacuum hiss is one problem, but the check valve rarely fails but can. If you have no noise yet it is harder to stop, run the engine for two minutes. Shut the engine off! If the rubber diaphragm inside the booster and check valve are good, step on the pedal in a normal fashion but count. The pedal drops and brakes apply, but if the pedal is noticeable higher and still hard after two to three pedal stops, the problem my be the check valve or too low engine vacuum if you just swapped camshafts for higher lift, duration and overlap.
At this point, as long as the hose and fitting are good, you may chose to get a “Dual Diaphragm” booster or one of the largest diameter that you can fit. That depends on engine placement, higher / tall rocker covers or other interference. Just make sure brakes are free and in working order before jumping off the deep end. Retired ASE Master
david do you any installation video for 1966 chevy c10 emergency brakes cable..
Very good tutorial. Just subscribed. Would this tutorial encompass a 2005 GMC 1500?
They are all very similar, so you should be able to use this video and it would help get thought just about any GM booster replacement.
Do you have a video for rusty bolts on your rear brake lines for my 72 chevy truck
we don't have a video for that specific problem. Typically if we can't get them loose with a line wrench, then we escalate the situation and try vice grips. If that doesn't work then you're faced with cutting the lines off and making or buying new ones.
Nice video! Do all trucks have the two support brackets? The one to the booster and master. I noticed my 71 c25 has them and my 70 c10 does not? Do I need to add them? Thanks
You may find various applications that will need the brackets added. Specifically if you are going from a non-power setup to a power setup.
My '68 C10 didn't come with a brake booster. I had found a donor from an older square body, but It's been over 15 years since I've done it and can't remember what I had pulled it from.
You'll need to make sure the bracket that holds the booster to the firewall is compatible with your '68. Aside from that we think you're good
Hello question my booster makes hard for my oil dipstick cuz of my headers as well. My question is can I change the booster to a smaller one & if so will it affect my brakes ? Can I replace my dipstick & with what?
You can go with a 9" booster to give yourself some extra clearance, we offer that option.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV thanks need to get a catalog from you guys again thanks
Is there a video on the square body truck? I hav a 1981 GMC
No vid for the Square, but its basically the same.
Can l use a booster on half ton for a
Three quarter running gear , is it a enough. I hope you understand what l am asking
Yes, the booster for a 1/2 and a 3/4 are the same, no problem.
Did you skip the part where you connected the under-dash part to the rod in the engine bay?
Ok so I need to replace mine but that little arm that connects it to the pedal I do not have, and can not find
If you are replacing it with one of our units the arm is included.
thanks very helpful
I was wondering if you would know what to look for since I had my 87 scottsdale engine replaced since it threw a rod. We put in a 350 small block from a 71 camaro and it does not want to shift up into third gear. The guy did a shitty job so any ideas help! Thank you very much
It is an automatic transmission. Still stock from when we got it
The '87 has a 700r4 transmission with a Throttle Velocity cable that controls the shifting. You need to have someone adjust that cable for the shifts to work right. It sounds like it's too tight right now, but we don't recommend you just loosen it or you could burn the clutch pack. Have someone who knows how to adjust it right do the work, or do a lot of Google searches and know what you're doing before you mess with it.
My 69 GMC 1500 booster has a metal tube that comes out and does a 90 degree downwards. Idk if a hose goes right to it or if there is supposed to be a molded fitting to mate a hose to it? It's about a half in in diameter.
Does it attach similarly to the White plastic 90° bend on our unit? Maybe it's a vacuum port?
I just replaced mine and I was wondering if you know the torque specs for these or is it just torque it till it’s tight 😂
Can you delete the booster and just run the master cylinder?
Absolutely. You'll need a proper master cylinder for that, but it definitely can be done.
Does a 77 c10 v6 come with a booster do you know by chance
It was optional, so you may or may not have one.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV ok thanks for helping great videos very helpful
I bleed my brakes no air it's a dual master cylinder I nich bore on my 1963C10 fleetside truck pedal still seems soft when I crank it on I have no brakes master cylinder and booster is new not sure what I'm doing wrong pls help thank you for your spare time
Assuming the pushrod is exactly the right clearance for the master cylinder since neither one is factory OE installed.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks bud!
Peace out Dave! Hahahha.
We would love to rebuild that original brake booster for you! Send it to us and we will do it for free in exchange for a brief shout out in your next video.