Have an evo x, hsd to remove brake master snd brske booster to change the clutch master cylinder. Car idles conpletely fine, drives fine, brakes completrly fine. Passes all the pedal tests. Car runs lean on boost. If im on idle and i press the brakes hard, once i let go the afr goes a bit. If i pump at idle the afr goes fully lean and engjne starts idling bad. Would that be a bad booster despite no loss in braking performance? Or a vacuum leak at the front chamber engine side
@@LThill-ks2uz my fluid is at max I have flushed it 3 times It could be possible I have air in the line but I drive an 04 canyon and I believe that Chevy requires a obd scanner to bleed the breaks
Thanks. My car is acting up. My brakes are stiffed as a rock. The car felt like it was going to come to a complete stop on the highway. The acceleration felt terrible as if it didn’t want to reach 40 mph . Rpm’s rev high but car not picking up much speed. Annoying af
Ay bro did your car brake by itself when it had this problem cuz my truck has a problem that my pedal stays hard and my truck stays braked until i losen up the master cylinder a little but it still braked but less than it use to , so if i bolt on the boster to the cylinder my truck wouldn’t move becouse thers so much pressure in the brakes , i replaced the boster is stull the same ,i was thinking abs pump but i don’t think
hi, if the car has a stiff brake (as hard as rock) before it starts the engine but there is no problem with braking (soft braking) after it starts, it becomes soft after pressing the START button to turn on the engine, do you know what is the problem? thank you
Could this cause your breaks to stick ? I have an Audi a5 with new discs, pads and d callipers !!! The mechanic has had the car in garage 6 times, they took everything off put pads discs ect back on, everything is working fine, hose, fluids are correct, all lubricant correct !! Breaks still stuck!! Decided to get all fresh gear just Incase if faulty pads, discs ect tried this it still stuck!! The vac is correct with the electric hand break !! It’s been in 6 times and still my breaks are sticking but everything is apparently done correctly !! What is the problem!!
@@patricianotyad5791 I think it’s the master break cylinder or the abc module. Very very unlikely it’s the booster. Lots and lots of Audi’s having same problem.
I don't like these ribs on the univeral parts. It can deform the hose causing it to leak if you ever put a OEM valve back on. Best to get OEM valve so its shaped the same.
Right on point. Had a vacuum leak, which led to the brake booster check valve failing.
Thank you so Mach 😊
Ok should that valve leak air when grabbing it and wiggling it slightly up and down or side to side
Could I get a idle air control code with this? P0506
أحسنت
Have an evo x, hsd to remove brake master snd brske booster to change the clutch master cylinder.
Car idles conpletely fine, drives fine, brakes completrly fine. Passes all the pedal tests. Car runs lean on boost. If im on idle and i press the brakes hard, once i let go the afr goes a bit. If i pump at idle the afr goes fully lean and engjne starts idling bad. Would that be a bad booster despite no loss in braking performance? Or a vacuum leak at the front chamber engine side
do a smoke test, see videos for diy smoke testers, very simple to fix once you locate the leak.
I'm having similar issue and was wandering if you resolved this issue
@martinmangik So the afr going lean after pumping pedal is normal, but I ended up having a Crack in my intake manifold so just a coincidence
Good day,, my brake fluid going in the buster, what must I do.
change the buster
Replace brake master..
Would this be cause when I press the brakes is goes to the floor but when I let go then press again it slows down then stops my vehicle?
You could have low fluid, or air in the line, or water in the fluid
@@LThill-ks2uz my fluid is at max I have flushed it 3 times It could be possible I have air in the line but I drive an 04 canyon and I believe that Chevy requires a obd scanner to bleed the breaks
Hard to press brake pedal would be a symptom of brake booster check valve failure.
Limp mode?
Probably a bad master cylinder
Thanks. My car is acting up. My brakes are stiffed as a rock. The car felt like it was going to come to a complete stop on the highway. The acceleration felt terrible as if it didn’t want to reach 40 mph . Rpm’s rev high but car not picking up much speed. Annoying af
Ay bro did your car brake by itself when it had this problem cuz my truck has a problem that my pedal stays hard and my truck stays braked until i losen up the master cylinder a little but it still braked but less than it use to , so if i bolt on the boster to the cylinder my truck wouldn’t move becouse thers so much pressure in the brakes , i replaced the boster is stull the same ,i was thinking abs pump but i don’t think
Did you u get it fixed ?
@@kvng_leo1159did you have the same problem?
What was it?
The check value
hi, if the car has a stiff brake (as hard as rock) before it starts the engine but there is no problem with braking (soft braking) after it starts, it becomes soft after pressing the START button to turn on the engine, do you know what is the problem? thank you
Any update? Thanks
is that not normal?
Check the brake booster check vaulve
Air in the ABS pump.
This is normal and expected..the brake pedal becomes soft only after u turn the engine on.
Could this cause your breaks to stick ? I have an Audi a5 with new discs, pads and d callipers !!! The mechanic has had the car in garage 6 times, they took everything off put pads discs ect back on, everything is working fine, hose, fluids are correct, all lubricant correct !! Breaks still stuck!! Decided to get all fresh gear just Incase if faulty pads, discs ect tried this it still stuck!! The vac is correct with the electric hand break !! It’s been in 6 times and still my breaks are sticking but everything is apparently done correctly !! What is the problem!!
Did you solve this?
Brake booster check valve
@@stefansk8 no
@@patricianotyad5791 I think it’s the master break cylinder or the abc module. Very very unlikely it’s the booster. Lots and lots of Audi’s having same problem.
I don't like these ribs on the univeral parts. It can deform the hose causing it to leak if you ever put a OEM valve back on. Best to get OEM valve so its shaped the same.
Brake booster check valve
Didn’t help none
not answering your viewers but expecting a thumbs up will earn you a thumbs down
Sound like he's reading
video is not helpfull.