How to Get Difficult Convex and Concave Body Lines Straight - Detailed Explanation
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ก.ค. 2024
- A detailed explanation on how to get difficult convex and concave body lines perfectly straight on the very first try.
/ @lakesideautobody - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I like how you cover all the possible scenarios in your videos, I've learned a lot watching them. I had to do a small rust repair on my truck and it turned out way better that I thought it would, I just used what I learned from your videos.
That makes my day. Glad to hear it. Have a great weekend. Jerry
You sir have an amazing skill set. I love watching your videos. They are clear, straight forward and no nonsense, which on TH-cam is hard to find. They have given me confidence to take on my old truck. Your an artist and a master of your craft. Thank you for taking the time to teach us.
You are very welcome - I appreciate that. Have a great week :)
Nice Job. As always, great video!! Straight and to the point with tools a regular guy would or could own. Thanks!
You're welcome - have a great week :)
Great job! Beautiful body lines. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks and you're welcome - have a good weekend.
You, sir, are a sculptor. Thank you for the lessons. 😎
You're welcome - glad you like them - have a great weekend :)
I’m with ya. It’s an art form. Love doing bodywork. But little intimidated to paint. I know they go hand in hand. But always nervous that I’d mix it wrong. Not have the gun set up right or at all. It’s just no ones really worked with me on spray guns. Kinda sucks tho because all your doing is enhancing your bodywork. So for me to “Not Finish” from start to finish kinda sucks. Big Jim
Nice job Jerry as always thank you and keep safe
Thank you, you too :)
You have the best auto body channel on TH-cam. Keep posting and your subs should increase dramatically.
Thank you Cooll Asice - that's nice of you to say - I will keep posting :)
Thank u! This truly helped me....please continue the great work!!
You're welcome :)
Awesome video! Saved to my favorites for when I get to that stage with my 61 Falcon build!
Very cool car - glad it will help :)
Awesome video. Thanks for showing this process
You're welcome ZVG - have a good week :)
Your tape-line tip is something im finding useful on my 86 mustang winter project. Also purchased the cheese grater. I have just one really bad spot to fix and a lot of small dings. A little work each day, and a lotta work on my days off. Whole lot more rewarding than sitting on the couch👍
Absolutely better than sitting around. Let me know how it goes :)
Another great video Jerry...You my friend are one of the best bodymen on TH-cam!
Thanks - I think you're one of the best painters for sure - have a great weekend UPK :)
Lakeside Autobody thanks Jerry...enjoy your holiday weekend
Good morning. You did a nice job with your video. I like it when things are explained as they are being done. There are so many videos out there where they show what they did and there is no explanation on how it was done. Thanks for sharing.👍😷
Thanks so much. That's good to hear because sometimes I wonder if there's too much explaining. The overall tone though is folks want detail. So that's what the plan is. Glad you enjoy them. Jerry
Best auto body videos on the internet.
Thanks that's very kind. I appreciate the support :)
Beautiful body work!
Thank you
a huge thank you from, Perth Australia. Great Video, sir!
You're welcome - I'm going to look up Perth Australia. Any land marks that you live around - I'll check it out on Google Earth :)
Great craftsmanship.
Thanks - have a great week end :)
Lovely job...looks perfect
Thanks 😊 Have a good weekend.
Wow that's a beautiful body repair job very nice 👍
Thanks - have a good weekend :)
Skills! Nice work!
Thanks
It just cant be that easy lol.
Maybe after about 10yrs practice I could get somewhere close to this. Excellent video thankyou for sharing your skills and experience. I am about to embark on a project and this was just at the right time no drama just straight forward skill presented in a very calm and confident way.
I'm glad you appreciate the content. Keep me updated on how your project goes and feel free to ask any ?s no matter how simple you think they are. I answer the comments and ?'s once or twice a day.
Excellent thanks for sharing.
You're welcome - have a good weekend :)
Never thought of using a grater blade like that, good stuff!
Saves a lot of time and dust :)
Hourglass shape, what a lady!
Love to see you do that with the tape and the body lines. Same thing when block sanding, especially a custom job. Tape those body lines and sand to them!
Glad you enjoyed the video. Feels good when you pull the tape and see a nice straight line. I do it when blocking the primer too.
Great video mate
Thanks 👍
Excellent work, and thanks for your video...🐍
You're welcome - have a good weekend :)
You did this great 😎
Thanks - glad you liked it :)
So agree with Mr. Dennis. Straight to the point. But I think for someone like me (starting DIY) would use smaller sanding blocks. I see myself tearing up that tape lines
The length of the medium board gives you better control, amplifies your point of contact and helps prevent digging in.
A long board would be unwieldy, but he's showing exactly the most straightforward way to get good results.
Woah that’s a top job
Thanks :)
Nice!! Hard to believe you can do so much with tape 😎👍
Thanks - tape does come in handy for a lot of stuff :)
Love your videos. My dad was a body man for 45 years (started back in the lead and tallow days). Watching you work brings back some great memories!
That's good to hear. It was a good trade back then. You could make a lot of $ if you were good.
A really nice stuff but flexible plastic spreader works great for them just make sure the first amount is pressed firmly to get into the Grainger marks but usually I get the curve good most of the time in one coat...then sand it with 80 then 120 & 240-280 for primer
Keep up the good work..
Thanks for the comment and support Peter :)
Thank you.
You're welcome - have a good weekend :)
Thanks for another great tutorial, Jerry, you ROCK. I like that you stacked the sand paper grits on the board, which saves time and hassle. Great tip! Do you have a favorite brand of lightweight filler? I've only used Bondo brand, which is ok, but I have to believe there is better out there for not much more $.
My opinion is that they are all really the same quality so I look for the cheapest (sort of like motor oil i guess) - right now I'm using - autobodymaster.com/product_list.jsp?PHPRJ_GROUP_ID=1868
$19/gal
Evercoat rage
Very nice Jerry! I hope your next video is block sanding, re-priming and reblocking this panel. And on the way through to the final painting!
Do you have a one man body shop? Looks like your always busy! Keep up the good work. Tom
That's the plan - I have a couple of quarter rust repair videos coming up and then it's on to block sanding primer, re-priming, finish sanding and paint - I'm looking forward to painting this car - beautiful color. As always, good to hear from you :)
Nice
Thanks
Very helpful. But how do you mix the filler so as to have so much working time before it gets too hard? Love your videos!!!
Thanks. If you need more time with your filler, use less hardener. Hot days, it hardens fast too. Here's a video that may help: th-cam.com/video/EPZCuPB9fds/w-d-xo.html or th-cam.com/video/7LiLlGGhms4/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps - Jerry
You're good
Thank you - have a good week :)
Exelentes sus videos.
Me ayudan mucho en mis trabajos.
Lo sigo desde Obera, Argentina.
Le pregunto,..Como se llama la herramienta con la que saca el exceso de masilla??
Gracias y saludos.
Gracias. Me alegra que te ayuden. Lo llamo una cuchilla ralladora de queso: aquí está la herramienta: www.amazon.com/Stanley-21-299-10-Inch-Surform-Replacement/dp/B00002X1ZN
@@LakesideAutobody ok 👍gracias por responder👏. Aca en Argentina no hay esa herramienta.
Si puedo, la voy a comprar x amazon.
Un saludo grande desd Argentina y exitos.
Seguire viendo todos sus videos y aprendiendo.
Great looking work. HVLP?
Thanks - that's a Devilbiss MBC 1.8mm fluid tip + #30 air cap. Have a great weekend :)
Hi. Great video as usual. Can you tell me if you 1k or 2k primers.??? Cheers
I use Lacquer Primer because it works fine, drys fast, builds fast, sands easy, cheap, doesn't harden in the cup, you can pour the unused portion back in the primer can and you can mix it thick or thin. 2K primers are great too and really hold down any imperfections that you primed over. Really it comes down to the cost for me. Glad you enjoyed the video.
How did u prep the edges at where the different sections of body filler meet up
If there is un-sanded filler on the edge, you can hit it lightly with some sand paper to rough it up a bit. In this case the filler was so thin that I don't think it would matter much. Good thinking!
If I use filler to fill a dent and after sanding I see metal showing through in spots, even though the repair feels flat, should I pound in those metal spots and add more filler until the metal isn't showing any more? Love your videos.
If it feels fine then leave it, prime it with your choice of primer surfacer and block sand it. If the high spots show up quickly then they probably should be knocked down. You might get away with it though and not notice it in the final paint job - that's a choice thing. I've left minor high spots many times and got away with it. You get away with minor high spot easier than low spots. Glad you like the videos - Jerry
What does he block the primer with as in grit and when he reprimers it what does finish sanding mean?
You can block primer with anything from 80 grit (real large damage areas with lots of thick primer surfacer) to 150 grit (general blocking) Finish sand with anything from 220 - 320 on a DA or 320-400 wet/dry sand. Let me know if that makes sense - if not ask more ?s - Jerry
Enjoy your videos. What kind of camera do you use?
I use a Panasonic Panasonic HC-V180K - If you are looking around for one, it is a wonderful camera - user friendly, great color and clarity, durable as heck and relatively inexpensive $199 around Christmas time. Glad you like the videos - Jerry
Hey. Love this video. Very helpful info. I have a question bout old paint. I have a truck with 60 yr old paint on it. Some is just faded, some is warn down to primer, some has rust and needs body work. Is it ok to scuff over old paint and paint over or do I need to go to bare metal? Thanks as always.
Yes, it's fine to paint over that as long as it is not cracked, peeling, etc. My dad used to say, "Old paint, in good condition, is the best primer." Let me know how it goes :)
Lakeside Autobody thank you so much! Where are you located sir?
What brand of body filler do you typically use? I've been using Bondo and I'm not too much of a fan. It seems to dry way to fast. And it seems to not want to lay out flat very well . Yours seems to lay down really easy like a soft putty.
autobodymaster.com/product_list.jsp?PHPRJ_GROUP_ID=1868
$19/gal
The sanding block that you use looks like it has an extra thick pad. Did you make it like that?
Yes - unfortunately the pad on that block wore out so... (not proud of this) but I went to dollar general looking for a foam place mat or something to replace it. Sadly, at the time, the only thing I could find with firm enough foam was a pair of large summer flip flops. I cut it to fit, sprayed it with 3m Super 77 adhesive, and stuck it on. I've been meaning to get a new one soon - good eye!
Is there any reason that you prefer steel over plastic body filler spreader?
Not really other than they clean really well. You keep two of them and use one to scrape the other completely clean every use. Plastic ones tend to be a hassle to keep clean unless you keep them in a coffee can of thinner like an old boss of mine did. Both work/spread just as well - plastic better for curvy areas and metal is great for spreading tight and flat.
What do you use to grind it to bare metal? And once the dent has been filled do I need to use a self etching primer on the bare metal?
All production body shops use fiber resin grinding discs i.e. www.amazon.com/Zirconia-Resin-Fiber-Sanding-Grinding/dp/B07V9YGYYP Don't use an angle grinder like you see sometimes on YT because it tends to shine the metal or rub. You don't need etching primer. Always use sharp fresh sandpaper and that's all you need. I've worked at many shops and not one of them used a self etching primer.
What primer do you use is it Lacquer or 2k primer
It's Auto Body Master lacquer primer - I don't ever have problems with lacquer primer - dries super fast, builds fast, sands easy, doesn't shrink if used correctly, cheap, doesn't harden in the cup, throw the unused portion back in the can, one gallon makes 2 gallons mixed, etc. I like 2K - it works fine too just more money and you use more because you waste more. I like feather fill too for body work that needs a little help as it's really thick stuff :)
Looks excellent just curious what Brand of body filler do you prefer
Really anything cheap - right now I'm using this: autobodymaster.com/product_list.jsp?PHPRJ_GROUP_ID=1868
$19 /gal
@@LakesideAutobody OK thanks didn't know if there was a big quality difference on certain brand's
💪👍
I remember the first car that I painted. I was 15 and it was my first car. A 1960 Dodge Dart. I ran out of paint half way through. My friends dad had a gallon of auto paint so I switched color in the middle of my paint job. 😂 That was like 45 years ago.
That's funny - did it turn out OK?
@@LakesideAutobody Not really. But the only way you’ll learn is to roll up your sleeves and give it a go.
@@donaldappelhof2059 You're right:)
Is that sanding block solid or does it give a little like a sponge to confirm to the roundness?
It's pretty stiff. It's actually the sole off of a flip flop from Dollar General. The original pad was thinner but the same stiffness (was damaged a bit). If you purchase one, it's usually thin but does give a little.and does help to go with the curve. I'm going to get a new one and use it with the pad that comes on it. Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody So it needs to give a little for curved panels? Would a sponge work or too soft
@@mrsemifixit Too soft. You really don't need any give - just enough so that the paper doesn't load up on the edge when sanding curves. For example: If you used a super square hard wood block on a convex curve it just wouldn't work as well as a block made for auto body work with a thin pad on it. If you are trying to make a home made block, I would go to the material store and get some vinyl with the foam padding attached to it - like the stuff to protect tables and stuff - then spray adhesive it to a block. Jerry
Got a quarter panel on a 2011 impala i need to do some work on. The body line isnt sharp and crisp. How would one go about dealing with that ? Btw im a red seal welde4 and apprentice mechanic this info your sharing is great.
You can do it the same way. You can do it in sections. i.e. big flat area first, lip second using the masking tape to protect the previous work. Don't worry about the subtle body line till the end. Then you can wipe some filler in the concave body line and sand. Maybe a rubber tube or hose with sand paper wrapped around will help you get that contour. You can also choose to just go at it with out the use of masking tape. I find the tape helps a bit though. When you lay it down, you can actually see if your body work is looking good and straight. Hope that helps a bit :)
Thanks for the reply. It was quite quick. The body line is convex so i figure slice a rubber tube open and use that
@@Newfoundlander86 I looked up that car. Do you mean the straight body line the length of the quarter or the body line around the wheel opening? If it's a convex body line, go ahead and use the tape method. When you pull the tape your body line will be very sharp. Then just knock it down a bit with some finer paper. Rough paper will cut it down too fast and you might mess it up. Let me know if that makes sense :) This may help if it's the wheel well opening body line - th-cam.com/video/H8SprtjSw4I/w-d-xo.html this for the quarter body line - th-cam.com/video/sStbeOOgyD8/w-d-xo.html
Makes sense bring it to a sharp line and blunt it after removing the tape. Thanks again. Keep up with the videos if you can they are great for other people who dont have the experience. I also have a bad spot in the roof of my mazda 3 depeding on how bad the rust is i may cut it out and glue a patch in. If you get a chance you should do a video on surface rust repair.
@@Newfoundlander86 Good suggestion my friend. I'll try to look out for a panel that has rust like that. Have a good weekend :)
Same procedure with the tape with more subtle bends? Like most 90s cars that have a subtle flare at the wheel well?
I use the same procedure on every dent. If it's a real subtle flare you really don't have to use the tape though it may take a few tries to get it perfect. That's when a thick primer surfacer like feather fill comes in handy. Get it close and the feather fill is thick enough to help you get it perfect during block sanding. I'm going to do a video soon on the use of feather fill. Have a good week :)
@@LakesideAutobody Cool thanks. I’m just having a hard time feathering using one of those 3M rubber blocks that fit the palm of your hand because of the curves of the wheel well. Think if I attached a thin piece of foam to the bottom it’ll help?
@@mrsemifixit I don't think the foam will help you out. Try using the block with a nice fresh sharp piece of sand paper - don't be afraid to use course grit. See this vid for the reasons: th-cam.com/video/rv0uB-ZvrFo/w-d-xo.html
With you block you will be sanding on an angle through the curve i.e not parallel to the valley and not perpendicular to it but on a pretty goo angle to it. Then go on an opposite angle to cancel out those sanding strokes. You may have to prime it to see the result. No problem though as you can block that and still put filler over the top of primer if needed. Let me know how it goes for you - been there hundreds of times. That's why I used to love "Feather Fill" - I'd bury that sucker before lunch break - come back, block it and spread 2K putty if needed. Then prime again, block, etc That's par for the course - every body man suffers through that - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks I’ll try. If I use that sanding block sometimes I can’t get the entire surface flat and end up using 1/3 of it or just the edge on curved parts. Is that ok to do?
@@mrsemifixit That's exactly what you do! Bravo. There are no magical blocks or gimmicks out there for getting dents straight - It's all going to come from "you" - i.e. - how you hold the block, what angle you attack it from, sand paper grit, pressure, length of board etc. Remember, the only boards they had in the late 70's and early 80's was the long wood or plastic 17.5" board, 9.5" board and the rubber 5" block and everything that left the shop looked straight as heck :)
What are the guitar riffs on the intro to your videos?
I make them up but feel free to use the riffs if you play guitar and write your own music - maybe I'll hear them in a song one day :)
@@LakesideAutobody I was guessing you probably wrote them. I think they're pretty cool and guess you're into metal besides sheet metal lol. Also your videos have helped me out lots so thank you.
You make want to save my old wrecked car instead of re-shelling it
What kind of car was it or is it? Still have it?
No way that was a one wiper. I’m sure you had to skim coat that
Sometimes you get it in 1 shot but most of the times 2-3 :)