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2001 Dodge Ram 1500 - Rear Differential Fluid Change
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 มี.ค. 2014
- In this video, I demonstrate the steps required to change the rear differential fluid in a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500.
For reference, my truck has a Chrysler 9.25" open rear differential.
I am not a professional mechanic, and my videos are not intended to offer professional advice. Always reference your vehicle's service manual for official information, and please do not attempt any repair that you are not comfortable doing.
Thanks for watching!
I have been driving/wrenching for 45 years and had never changed the differential fluid nor have I ever had issues. Lucky, I guess. I have driven my '96 Ram 1500 Indy for 22 years. 85000 miles when I purchased and an additional 100k now. Decided maybe that maybe it is time. The fluid did not appear to be dirty. A lot of recommendations online about what weight fluid to use. Someone said to check the owners manual which stated 75W-90. The cover was sealed with orange sealant. Some say use just sealant, or gasket plus sealant on one side, or sealant on both sides of gasket. Also, there were about ten different recommendations for which sealant to use. I purchased Permatex Ultra Black as that was what Autozone carried.
Good video, thanks.
Question: how do I find out if I need a friction modifier?
Great job man. When you common back? Whats the diff level fill mark for the front Dana 44? peace.
I've got the same truck and I hear a sound like pop rocks when accelerating from a stop and when shifting into gear specifically reverse. Is that the rear diff or something to do with the u joints, driveshaft or what?
Carl Stratton - the fluid change did seem to have some quieting effect, but I can still hear some whining when coasting. I got my hands on an electronic copy of the service manual for this truck, and I read the following:
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - AXLE
GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubricant, incorrect backlash, incorrect pinion depth, tooth contact, worn/damaged gears, or the carrier housing not having the proper offset and squareness. Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed range. The noise can also occur during a specific type of driving condition. These conditions are acceleration, deceleration, coast, or constant load.
When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then accelerate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes greatly:
² Check for insufficient lubricant.
² Incorrect ring gear backlash.
² Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehicle turns. A worn pinion shaft can also cause a snapping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound. Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differential. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the source. Worn or damaged differential bearings usually produce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differential bearing noise is also constant and varies only with vehicle speed. Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle. Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right. This will load the bearings and change the noise level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
So, I have a feeling what we are hearing from our drivetrain is probably either a pinion or differential bearing that is worn out.
Pinion bearing is common on these trucks especially as I know ...for Chrysler corporate 9.25. I had to replace mine. Whining noise about 30 to 45 ish. Wait too long and you will replace the pinion as well. Mine is a 4x4 and also common for front axle seals. They are a bitch on Dana 44 as the seals are internal.
i have the identical truck and im having that same issue with the wining sound, did changing the diff fluid make it go away?
Matt, Great Video! I so need ro do this with my truck. Its been over two years since I've changed to oil. Looks like the weather is nice there... I'm jealous.
Thanks man! Haha, I'm embarrassed to say how long it had been since my fluid had been changed....probably 5 years and over 50,000 miles. Whoops. I normally try to stay on top of that stuff, but I let that slip through the cracks. I still need to do the front differential and transfer case, too, as well as brakes, rotors, fix the thermostat leak that is dumping coolant even when the truck is off.....ugh, the list goes on and on.
The weather is getting better, but it's still a couple of nice days followed by several nasty days. But, I guess it's probably warmer here than in your neck of the woods, so I shouldn't complain.
Thanks for checking out the video!
Yea, I just did front brakes, including calipers, stainless lines, and wheel bearings.... let me know if you ever throw a wheel bearing.. I learned several tricks. Although i didn't make a video because I was pressed for time. I added your channel to my featured channels btw, not sure if I told you that before. hope all is well!
Musher Deeds Nice! I had to get my truck inspected this week, and I knew it wasn't going to pass because it sounded like the right front brakes were either locked up or totally shot. I was going to try to replace them myself, but then I realized I had a lifetime warranty on the calipers through Firestone, so I let them do it. Still had to pay for new rotors, but all in all, not too bad. I've never done a brake job, as I'm a little hesitant to work on the one system that is most important to vehicle safety...I'm not sure I trust my "skills" that much yet! If you ever do post a video of brake work on your Ram, I'll be sure to check it out.
And thanks for the channel feature! I'll reciprocate the favor....when I figure out how to do that....ha. Thanks again!
Matt Payne brakes are not too bad. I’ll post next time I change mine I have a 2001 Dodge Ram.
Are the torque specs different for a regular gasket material gasket that is ?
th for the vid it help me alot Im having the same problem w the noise
You're welcome! I'm very sorry for not replying sooner - I was completely overwhelmed at work this summer/fall and I am just now getting a chance to catch up on messages and comments. Please accept my apology, as I do try to make a point to respond to viewers in a timely manner. I just got swamped over the summer and really couldn't keep up.
I'm so glad this video helped you out. Thanks for watching!
Good video, haha, your nice painted cover, will be covered in road grease and dust in two weeks and look just like it did before
I was expecting that to happen, but actually, the cover has stayed surprisingly clean since I painted it. I think the higher gloss finish keeps road grime from sticking to it as much as it did before.
How can you tell if you have a limited slip or a regular rear axle?
I’m having a slightly different problem, no whining but under a load of pulling my boat and after driving miles on a highway, when I stop and take off again I feel a vibration in the rear axle
I was told to check the inside axel bearing but I’m going to start with fresh grease to see if that accomplishes anything.
One fairly easy way is to raise the rear tires off the ground with a jack, have a friend hold one rear tire to prevent it from spinning while you try to spin the other rear tire. If you can't spin the tire on your side while your friend resists the tire on the opposite from spinning, it's likely you have a limited-slip differential. Or, conversely, if you CAN spin the tire on your side despite your friend holding onto the tire on the opposite side, you likely have an open differential (or a malfunctioning limited-slip differential.
You can also request your truck's build sheet from Dodge. You can do so by visiting the following link; just ask for a build sheet in the description field:
www.dodge.com/webselfservice/dodge/emailpage.html?appStr=wccs&titleStr=Contact+Dodge&familyStr=brand&franchise=D&actionURL=%252Fwccs%252Fbrand_forms%252Fus%252Fwebform.jsp&promotion=null&category=U
Finally, you can always remove the differential cover to see if your differential has clutches that would be indicative of a limited-slip differential. That looks something like this:
www.quickperformance.com/Chrysler-925-Posi-Gears-Bearing-Kit_p_21523.html
I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
awesome video! I have a 98 ram, how would I find out what type of diff I have?
You should be able to just count the bolts on the differential cover...or, you can send Dodge a request for the build sheet for your truck by visiting the following link. Just write "Requesting vehicle build sheet' or something similar in the subject line.
www.dodge.com/webselfservice/dodge/emailpage.html?appStr=wccs&titleStr=Contact+Dodge&familyStr=brand&franchise=D&actionURL=%252Fwccs%252Fbrand_forms%252Fus%252Fwebform.jsp&promotion=null&category=U
Thanks for watching!
Sal All second gen 1/2 tons came with the Chrysler 9.25 rears and I think they used those rears up to like 2009. Second hens were either 3.55 or 3.92 done really see too many 4.10 gears from the factory in those
It’ll be in your glove box on a sticker
You can jack the truck up from the rear so that both wheels are just off the ground. In neutral turn a rear wheel. If the spin in opposite directions, you do not have a limited slip differential.
Good video, you're pretty black cover will be covered in the road Grease and dust within two weeks though :)
Any idea how well the RTV will bind to the diff housing if I forgot to wipe the oil off the bottom where it drains? Is there such a thing as too much RTV as well? I put a really thick bead on there because I saw the previous owner do it that way as well, and wasn't sure about the seal.
Hmm, that is a good question. I might be slightly concerned that the RTV won't make a good seal if the surface of the differential housing was still oily when you applied it. The good news is that it's easy to check for leaks and to check the fluid level, so you should be able to determine if you're losing gear oil.
As for using "too much" RTV, my only concern would be about how much of it oozed out into the inside of the differential housing. Obviously it's not ideal to have big chunks of cured RTV flinging around inside the differential. I'd say you're probably OK unless you think enough oozed out to actually contact the gears and break off. That would seem contrary to physics, though, as gravity should help the excess just collect at the bottom of the housing. Hopefully it won't cause you any issues.
Thanks for watching!
***** Looks like the RTV sealed, haven't had a leak in about two days of driving, and no signs of any RTV sloshing around or getting round in the gears, but my fingers are still crossed. And thank you for the video, pretty big help when I was looking for a visual guide on how to do this.
Good to hear! And, you're very welcome - I'm glad my video helped out some!
Mandame cualquier information de 2003dodge ram 2500 q compre 1 y necesito hacerla mucho mejor su rendition to
Jhon Cerro Jhon, my Spanish is not what it once was...can you please repeat your question? I didn't quite understand what you asked.
Thanks for asking!
These trucks are known for the pinion bearings going bad. The stuff you called sludge is actually metal from the gears, bearings etc. normal wear. There is a magnet in the bottom of the housing to catch that stuff.
+SuperJimbo68 Thanks for the input! It does sound like pinion bearing failure is a common problem. Do you know if the front pinion bearing can be changed from outside the differential?
+Matt Payne yes it can be replaced, but it's a little bit involved. My advice would be to find someone that has done this.
+SuperJimbo68 Yeah, I don't think it's a job I would tackle on my own. If it can be done without having to tear down the internals of the differential, I would probably consider paying a professional to do it. However, if the differential has to be completely torn apart to remove the front pinion bearing, it's probably not worth sinking that amount of money into the vehicle at this point.
Thanks for your input.
@@mattpayne4087 thanks for that info lol
Don't use red gasket maker it will leak because its not made for oil
Use the gasket maker thats is made for oil
I made this mistake before
I need replace my start engine. ...I have 2002 Dodge ram 2500 , do you can send video please?
Jhon Cerro Hi Jhon, unfortunately replacing the starter motor is not a project that I have done, so I don't have a video of that process. However, you should be able to download the factory service manual here:
dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-ram-tech/258175-02-06-dr-service-manuals-for-download.html
That should show the process for replacing the starter motor. Good luck!
***** Starter is easy! like 3 bolts 3 wires, on the driver side of the engine. 20 mins prolly
I had my original differential fluid changed on my 2001 ram 1500 with a std. transmission (135,000 miles) about a month ago and then started to here a grinding sound when I engaged the clutch in 1st and 2nd gear. do you think there is a connection? could the wrong fluid in either the transmission or differential cause this to happen. I've had the vehicle since it was new 15 years ago and want to keep driving it as my main vehicle.
Surfer Surfer Does the grinding sound seem to come from the transmission, or from the rear end? If it's coming from the transmission, the differential fluid change would not have anything to do with that. I would check your transmission fluid level.
If the noise is coming from the differential, then make sure the correct lubricant was used. Does your truck have a limited slip rear differential? If so, and the new differential fluid does not contain a friction modifier, that could cause "chattering" of the limited-slip clutches, but it seems like that would only happen when turning (when one wheel is turning faster than the other). I would start by checking the fluid level in the differential. It should be just below the level of the fill plug on the differential cover.
I hope this helps!
***** Thanks for the info. The grinding sound is coming from the transmission so I'm guessing its probably the synchronizers. What do you think about replacing the transmission fluid with regular lightweight (30) oil? It's hard to find someone willing to diagnose the cause as most shops don't want to take apart the transmission unless you pay them about $800 just for a look see. I wish I could learn to do the work myself as a hobby .
Surfer Surfer I'm really not sure what 30 weight oil would do to the transmission....but if it was my truck, I wouldn't do it. I can't offer much knowledge about the inner workings of these transmissions, but I would post a question on www.dodgeforum.com and I'm sure someone will help you out. There are some incredibly knowledgeable people there, some of whom are former mechanics/auto techs.
Good luck!
Geat video, but you really need to stop rambling! Clear, concise and to the point!!!
*4.8 pints, and bolt torque is 35ft lbs.
try checking the pinion bearings my truck does the same thing and mine is the inner pinion bearing going bad
rob iscrupe Thanks, Rob! I think you are exactly right; I was actually reading the service manual recently and read exactly that - if the noise happens while coasting, it's likely due to a failing front pinion bearing.
I don't think I'm brave enough to tackle that repair on my own. Have you ever dug inside a differential before?
Thanks for your input!
yes I have done that already it is really not that hard first time learn as i go just pull driveshaft off take nut off and the bearing is behind the seal and the oil slinger
Good video but wanted to ask why use a breaker bar to break them loose and then back them all the way out with an impact? Unless your impact isn't strong enough to break them loose I see no reason to use the breaker bar at all, now I wouldn't go putting impact on highest setting and running the bolts back in completely so you don't strip out the holes but breaking loose and taking them out with just an impact should be fine
Impacts actually distort bolts and threads over time
Looks like a regular 1/4 impact. In my experience the socket adapter tend to break if there's too much torque on them so he probably just loosen them used the impact to quickly remove them and put them almost all the way back on.
I tend to do this on really long bolts. Loosen and tighten with ratchet, back in and out with impact
Aren't you supposed to put the gasget glue facing away from the ball not towards the ball
Do you need a gasket for this
did it take care of the wine? how often should this fluid be replaced?
The new fluid didn't really quiet the whine, however in hindsight, I believe the majority of the whining noise I heard was caused by unevenly worn tires. I recently got new tires and immediately noticed that the whining sound I had been hearing was significantly diminished. I think I still have some whine from the rear differential bearing, but I don't think it's in imminent danger of failing.
Maintenance Schedule "B" in my factory service manual recommends changing the front and rear axle fluid every 36,000 miles. However, I tend to do it every 30,000 miles or so for the rear, but I'll admit I let the front go longer since I rarely use the 4x4. That's not really a good excuse, though. The owner's manual will spell all of this out, too.
Easier with a tripod