How to: Replacing fuel injector #3 2013 LML Duramax
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.พ. 2020
- Hey guys,
In this video I’ll be showing you how to replace an injector on an LML (2011-2016) Duramax engine, specifically injector #3. If you have any questions feel free to ask in the comments or shoot me a message on Instagram @darkirondiesel
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Thanks 🙏🏻 so much brother for showing us your knowledge
Thanks Kyle, you're the man
Hello , What type of tools do you use to clean the injector well and seat before puting back the new injector ? Thanks
Thank you!!!!!!
How to you get to the fuel rail nuts with the egr cooler in the way
Great info!
So this number you need is not a injector serial number?
What dtc codes did you throw that prompted you to change this? I have 3 codes on number 1 - engine seems to be running fine. This happened after a tune.
does engine have to be warm or cold when replacing them ? and does the engine have to be running when you put in new flow rates ?
I'm about to do injectors on my 13 LML. 242k miles. Has 2 bad and one weak injector. Do you recommend changing the fuel lines also? I'm replacing the cp4 also. Cp4 hasn't exploded... just bad injectors. What's your idea?
I have a 2011 duramaxx when i drive it the truck shuts off really quick an a stabilyteack warning comes on like a few seconds. What can be cousin this issue ???
Have you replaced injector #7 6.6 turbo 2013 lml
Great Video man, very helpfull. How in the world did you get the hard line fitting loose without removing the EGR? Driving along yesterday into a 20min drive truck started running rough and threw code P1236. Pulled over, all injector rates reading 0.0, cleared code with CTS2 restarted truck, all injector rates near perfect. Drove to two more places turning truck off each time with no issues. Headed home threw same code two more times, truck runs like shit when it happens, each time I clear it it smoothes back up and drives normal. It’s requires you to get above 2000 rpm for it to set. Code says circuit for injector #5 is short circuiting. Any ideas on where to start?
Hmmm I’d start by just looking at the wires that go to the injector 5 out of the injector wiring harness. Maybe one rubbed through??
@@darkirondiesel I looked it over quickly last night and everything looks new still, not really even dirty. I'm going to take off the intake, wheel well liner, and filter housing this weekend to go over it better. If I do have to replace the injector, the only thing I worry about is loosening the hard line at the fuel rail. Truck is stock, do I have to remove the EGR cooler to get to it?
@@NSPirate12 how did you make out? Did you do an ohmmeter resistance test?
Did you see a bunch of blow by out the oil fill cap before changing that injector?
No I didn’t, usually blow by means your piston rings are worn out and your engine needs a rebuild
@@darkirondiesel Yea 140k miles towing down hill, got a bunch of white smoke and pulled over, engine was shaking. Shut it off and towed it home. Time to take it apart.
What was it doing for u to know it was injector number 3?
I think it had a code for cylinder 3, like a contribution code or something. But the duramax engines are nice because if you use a scanner you can check the balance rates and see which injectors are out to lunch. The closer to 0 the better. To check balance rates get the truck up to operating temperature then leave it running in park and look at the balance rates. Anything worse then + or - 4 I would replace. You can also put the truck in drive and hold your foot on the brake and see if the balance rates get worse. Sometimes they are ok in park but when you put it in drive they show their true colours. Don’t drive the truck though, just have it in drive with foot on brake.
@@darkirondiesel
So if they showed #2 was at +3 and number 7 was at -3, would that be ok?
I had mine checked when I purchased (2013 GMC 3500hd dually with 132k now 180k) and if I remember correctly they were reading like .04 , .05 ish, I wondered about the (.0) . I don't remember about the positive or negative aspects.
Those rates were possibly at .4, and .5 the decimal through me for a loop. The dealership mechanic said they were good only after I asked him if those numbers were good. He didn't outright say heck yeah those were good numbers which I would assume if I were a mechanic and someone specifically asked me to look at the injector rates I would be versed enough to perform the task and give direct answers to the question at hand without having to be asked a second time. I did a lot of pros and con (half ass research) of diesels on the big 3 before purchasing my first diesel. Although I've driven them for work for 10+ years, I knew if I bought one I would need to do the maintenance myself to save money, so one of the things before buying one was to have the injector rates looked at. Maybe I should have looked into that more.
Like to see an injector changed on driver back side 6 or 8
If I get a truck in the shop for one of those injectors I’ll film it! It’s basically the same process just different stuff to get out of the way first
Why not just buy the damn tool for pulling them?!
That much as a fuster cluck is exactly why I have a Cummins. FAR easier to work on
Go not break the return line T. I did that and hated myself for two days.
Haha 😂 man that sucks. I know exactly how that feels.