Dangar Marine you are the man. I’ve searched my boat problems and everytime your videos pop up. I routinely watch your videos to keep my boat going. I’m a carpenter not a mechanic but your videos, talk and instructions make me feel somewhat competent in this field of loving fishing and keeping a boat going. My personal thank you. If you were local I’d pay you all day. Thank you
I appreciate your videos. I just bought a boat with a 60 hp evi rude. Was having trouble with mist coming out of carb. I took off the reed valves and found 2 screws had fallen in and was keeping one Valve open. The previous owner had redone the carbs. I'm glad I saw your video.
I really appreciate all your videos. I have read the shop manuals for my current outboard and past outboards front to back and have done my own maintenance to a point. But, your explanation really makes sense out of it all. Especially, this video for these carburetors on the larger V6 engine (which I currently own). I like to do my own maintenance. If I do it, I know I have done it correctly by following every step. Its hard to know that a shop has done that work correctly. Your videos tie everything together and make sense out of what the shop manual is attempting to say. I wanted to say many thanks! and that I appreciate your videos!
One thing I meant to add is I have a 99 Ocean Pro V6 200. The carburetors seems to be a little leaky. Some people have stated on forums that the plastic bowls warp just a little and will cause some fuel leakage. My plan, thanks to your video and explanation, is to remove each carb, clean the jets and the passages and put everything back together. I am planning on leaving the throttle body in place and cleaning the holes in the throttle body with carb cleaner and compressed air. Again, you have provided more details than the shop manual! Many thanks!
Those plastic carb bowls can leak a bit, but most of the warping is caused by people doing them up too tightly. Just get them snug so the seal and do its job and resist the urge to really crank the screws down.
Hope this Helps... 1995-1996 models at least. This is a 60 deg V6 engine, which would be the same for the 150 and 175 Ocean Runners. On the low idle air bleed screws that you turned out 13 1/2 half turns, the manual advises to set the initial setting at 5 full turns out. Then while idling under load with the prop engaged, adjust each idle screw 1/8th of a turn in either direction depending upon if it is lean or rich, and when you can obtain the maximum rpm at that idle for the engine, then you move on to the next (Throttle Body) carb, and repeat the process through all six individually, but again, the default setting would be 5 full turns out from seated. I believe mine were at about 6 1/2 turns out and I was experiencing a lean condition. Set them back to five, and it resolved the lean "Sneeze". But that didn't appear until after I had fixed a few fuel line issues that I believe were the source of additional air leaks. Somebody had previously adjusted the carbs for the existing leaks rather than fixing the leaks.
I'm in the process of repairing a 1976 20hp Evinrude, love the simplicity of the older motors. Bought for $80 with a junk carb, and a snapped head bolt. The lower unit has a new forward gear and bearings so worth a bit of time to get running again. Just waiting on the head gasket to arrive.
You're first trip out on the water is going to be very satisfying once you get it all back together. I hope it all goes well for you. Waiting for parts is always the most frustrating part!
I had a spare carb off an 18hp that was an exact match it needed the choke freed up, $10 for the tap, $25 for the head gasket and another $12 for the head bolts, and $2 for hose clamps Grand total of $129.
Had one of these VRO's on 115 Fast Strike. Stopped pushing gas, disassembled checked it all out, did all the vacuum tests couldn't find a thing wrong with it. Replaced all the rubber bits re-tested, it passed all the vacuum checks in the manual. I installed it in the boat, same issue no fuel to carbs. Took it off and replaced with a fuel pump without VRO section on it. Run premix now never could figure out why the other one wouldn't pump fuel.
NOTE: at 11:43 that hose you mentioned as the pulse hose is actually the fuel inlet hose....the pulse hose is on the air motor side (where the main spring is)...Also that piston does not drive the pump. the air motor side is what drives the pump to give it the linear motion.There are check valves in the air motor side that First pulls a vacuum, then Second pushes air in front of the air motor diaphragm.....that in/out pulse squeezes the mainspring. While it is squeezing the mainspring it is drawing fuel into the chamber (the other side where the hamster cage and brown flapper is), and it is drawing oil into the piston's bore. When the pressure on the air motor side is enough to over power the smaller spring, the main spring pushes the whole linkage towards the oil side...the piston shoots towards the oil side forcing the oil though tiny channels into the mixing chamber. it is hard to describe what is going on in english....I'm going to enlist an animator to animate the goings on. Sorry to be a booger and contradict you. I DO enjoy your videos very much, it is just you got this wrong. I hate to derail, but....I did some research that I think you'd like to read. forums.iboats.com/forum/engine-repair-and-maintenance/johnson-evinrude-outboards/10424150-just-a-little-insight-into-the-oil-side-of-the-vro2-oms
Thanks STU. You’ve given me hope on my granddad’s Evinrude 120 vro. 1985. Hasn’t ran in years but never been in salt water. Bass boat. Question is after checking carbs and such should I replace water pump impeller before I start or wait till it’s starts first. I’ve heard that particulates could potentially block water pump flow. Your advise please.
I work on these 60 degree loopers alot, major problem with carbs is the plastic float bowls, they warp and start leaking, other than that it's a great fuel delivery system, very responsive and not hard to maintain, I own a 2005 model 150 that's been a great engine
The vro pump is what took a couple cylinders in mine. So the motor was rebuilt and snipped the wires to the new vro pump and premix it now for 10 years.
Hey Stu! Thank you for these really informative and helpful vids! I know the post is over a year old, but I am rebuilding this same engine currently (Johnson) and I have a comment that may help or assist others in the future. Inspecting and cleaning all carbs as you are in this video,I started with #6 because that is my worst cylinder (scoring and probable heat damage) and I am still trying to determine the exact cause. I have mixed feelings about the plastic carbs also because as I re-assembled #6 carb, I found a crack in the float bowl on the side of the low speed circuit reservoir (where the brass pick-up tube sits). As I inspected the other carbs, I found almost identical cracks on EVERY one in the same location! Number 6 is the worst of them, but they all have at least a noticeable hairline crack. Also, most of the mixture screws were turned out 11 - 14 turns. The manual says beginning setting is 5 turns out. I was pondering how a crack in the idle fuel/air reservoir might lean out a mixture and require a much richer setting. Anyway, I am waiting on 6 new float bowls and thinking about how to pro-actively protect them from the same fate. I wish I could post a picture of the crack, but if you look at the side of the carb with the low speed circuit cover (5 screws), below that there is a vertical rectangular portion on the lower right, just left of the float bowl screw. The cracks appear on that little rectangular portion that is bumped out. THANKS AGAIN for all the help from Woodstock, New York, USA! Todd W.
Hey Todd, thanks for sharing your experience. It certainly sounds like something people should keep an eye out for. It sounds to me like maybe down the track somebody over tightened the float bowls when reinstalling causing these cracks.
It is a bit of a mystery that all six have virtually the same crack even if they were all overtightened during their life (actually, none of the screws seemed very tight). I am curious to see if the new ones have any beginning hairline crack as it almost seems like a flaw in the molding process. I also wonder if any others have noticed a similar crack in their carbs. Anyway, it is not likely the cause of my engine issue, but it certainly wasn't going to help! Thanks again for the great vids!
great video as always. i have johnson 150 60 degree motor. i have been pre mixing. my vro/fuel pump has taken a hit. very expensive and i don't use vro. i purchased a after market retro fit fuel pump only. hope it all lines up. cheers from Tampa, Forida
Hi mate, thanks for all your tutorials it’s so wonderful and useful, I’ve got envinrude 200 ocean pro, this engine smoke so much I checked and clean carb. And it’s all okay Can you tell me what could be the problem here please? My guess is spending more oil than petrol but VRO looks okay. Thanks again
Thanks for the comeback. I figured out today my outboard is running on one piston, it has spark, spark plugs are good, I cleaned my carburetors somewhat, and checked the compression all at 80psi. What else can I do? I haven't done a vacuum test yet. I'm about to clean my carbs again. FYI the very bottom piston is the one that's firing
Hi Stu, I enjoy all the videos, but the Evinrude ones in particular as I've always had Johnson outboards, just worked out that way. I've never fully trusted the VRO system and removed it from my last outboard. One less thing to worry about. The smoke never bothered me, in fact it is one of my favorite smells, smells like freedom. Keep em coming,.....Tony
Hey Tony, it's funny you should say that. Years ago my mate Paul and I were talking about how two stroke is a bad smell, but the association is a good one, I know what you are saying. :)
BTW Stu I have a set of #72D high speed jets if you need them out of a 175HP, it will depend on what the current 150 jets are, they could be #56 or #70 and #71. If you wanted to go up 1 size.
Thanks Jason, I'll take one carb off and see what's in there. I did a bit of work on it last night (water in the fuel tank after all this rain unfortunately), but it is getting very close to starting!
I must have missed this video the first time around ! VRO are blamed for many problems. Disassembly and inspection is the proper thing to do and probably should be done after about 10 years. You need to carefully inspect the hoses all the way back to the oil tank to make sure there are no air leaks or restrictions in the hose. For good measure, drain, remove and clean the oil reservoir tank. This should be done maybe every 5 years.
Hi Dangar I've watched many of your videos, I live in Zimbabwe Africa and have a 150 evinrude entruder. Can you explain the return fuel lines and there uses? You mentioned in one video that you weren't sure what they were for and where they connected! On a rebuild, but I'm sure you have found out by now ? Many thanks for your great teaching! Keep it up 👍🏼🙏🏼
I just have that problem now and I order the pump and I see this video now and I don’t know they have the kit for that pump so I my gonna order the kit to fix the old one that way I have one spare good video 🎼🎶🎺👍🚣♀️I’m from Orlando Florida
on some models there are aluminum Welch plugs on the side of the throttle body that are notorious for drawing excess air into the idle/mid-range fuel circuit and this causes a lean condition on the cylinders effected at all speeds except WOT. Always tighten those plugs up with a proper sized punch and a few taps with a hammer. It looks like this one has a plate and gasket covering the throttle body ports, so I would replace those gaskets (6) just to be sure. Also be sure to remove the pulse limiter and be sure no debris is restricting flow through it. Better yet....just replace it to be sure since they are not expensive.
Ha I have 70 Johnsons I have change plug leads and stater pack it’s run’s fantastic for the first hour or so then it goes into lup mode can’t go past 3000 rpm water pump is working great can you help thankyou John
How often do you see these Johnson 150 carb bowls cracked? Mine is a 2004 always garage kept and all 6 have identical cracks. Motor has never been worked on. Also I’m going to delete the vro should I replace it with a plain fuel pump. I think they make an oem replacement that bolts in place of the vro.
love your videos so helpful. I have a 1983 Johnson 140 hp outboard I have put new plugs new fuel pump and cleaned the carbs with spray cleaner did a compression test and my numbers are 115 120 115 115 put it runs like it is under power what would cause that and how can I fix it .Your the best guy and keep the videos coming
As a diesel mechanic venturing into marine life I fully enjoy your tutorials. I actually dabbled in motorcycles for awhile as well and It’s not to far off relatively speaking. I will be purchasing a twin pack of Evinrude 250’s in a week or so. I was wondering if you did find anything that caused the 150 to crap out?
Thanks. Good video, though I would have preferred to see you explain how to take the carbs and base plate off motor on boat.Got myself a t-shirt to thank you for all the information you provide.
Yes, unfortunately this is a part of a larger project so doing it as a standalone job wasn't possible, but I do know what you mean about showing some tasks start to finish. Thanks for buying a t-shirt! :)
Ahhh mate I’m so happy you made this video. I have a 2005 Johnson 90 2 stroke. It’s great to see someone else working in one the same or similar. Mine is smoky when cold starting. More than it used to be. Once warmed all is good. Any clues why that might be? I just the Seloc service manual and it seems to be a very good book packed with useful info. Except the font is tiny and I struggle to read it! All the best Stu. Today my new dangar marine shirt arrived. My way of supporting your channel. Keep up the good work dude !
Hello Dangar! I have a J225hglssc and out of nowhere have encountered a problem. If I start the engine cold and burn it to my fishing spot, my bass boat jumps on plane and will fly to destination. Then I drop trolling motor and fish for a while. The engine starts up sounds a smidge week at idle and when I hit the hot foot the boat takes three times as long to get on plane and will only run 45-50 as opposed to 65-70? In short, it will act like normal on the way out. When I’m done fishing that spot and try to relocate engine feels like it’s only producing half power. The VRO is disabled and I mix my fuel at 50:1. Your thoughts?
Hey Stu! Thanks for a pleasent informative video . I wounder if you have the part number for the piston seal ? I cannot find it and my fast strike 150 -93 realy needs one Regards , Johnny
its 12.30 at night and I'm gripped to the edge of my seat..what will the autopsy result reveal?…who killed the evinrude?…was it a flathead?..was it old mate on the jetty?..was it the stealthy jewfisherman in the early hours near the bridge?..the suspense:)
mynameismud improper fuel mixture or the head was warped whenever it was last rebuilt are the only two I can think of at this point. Im sure eits something more complicated tho.
All I have ever heard about OMC VRO's is disconnect them and don't take the risk...interesting. Just going over my first ever OMC - 1996 Johnson 130hp and it drove the guy nuts so he gave it away. Beautiful motor but I picked it up in pieces on a pallet. Nothing wrong except the flywheel center magnet so far. I think the mechanic involved wasn't a subscriber to Dangar marine, I am having a blast putting it together.
The diaphragm with big spring make the pump motion not the oil pump. On the other side of the diaphragm, where fuel pump is connected to diaphragm, is a oil seal which is hold in place by a metal ring. If this seal is not in place or metal ring is missing, than carbs won't get enough fuel. In your video at 12:22 I can't see the seal.
seeing how nice everything looks, I would be checking for too much advance or the proper prop size and style.....did they just over rev the motor? the piston tops would show signs pf pre-detonation?
Great video i know its been awhile since this video was made. I have been watching a lot of your videos and thank you for sharing your knowledge. I think alot of boaters at the dock over revs There motor in neutral just trying to warm it up. Could That causes damage without knowing. thanks again
Thanks Jeff. I think it is best to keep the revs lower until the motor warms up a bit, but with a two stroke you also then run the risk of fouling up the plugs unfortunately.
A while ago i told u about my merc 50 with oil injection that was leaking oil on cowl floor. I replaced the line from the oil tank to pump (which was stretched). I still had oil leaking. The only other possible reason was a 2 psi check vale. i replaced and problem solved. My pump is crank driven so its a little different. The older (80s) model had a bad problem with a plastic gear but mine is metal so apparently its a great sytem and actually advised NOT TO go to premix. I have heard horry stories about older johnny vros but don't know if it was certain years. On other 2 strokes there is a idle and wot line to calibrate and check vro. On my merc i only have an idle line and the manual suggest to pull line and measure in a cup the oil output. I wish my merc had both lines because there is some slop in the oil pump linkage and its pissn me off!! I want to know for sure im getting lubed up at all rpms lol
Hi Stu, sorry if you answered this already. I am rebuilding carbs on my 1988 Johnson 150 and wanted to know if it is common practice to use gasket sealer on both sides of carb/manifold gasket? Or none at all?
Lower cylinders that have a burnt piston from a lean condition is from a leak in the crankcase. Pressure and vacuum testing. A good hint is your exhaust gasket is usually the problem
When the powerhead went back on a new gasket went in and it was treated with the sealants as recommended in the service manual so I'm pretty confident that any leak that may have been there will now be gone. Any tips on pressure testing the crankcase on an outboard?
Dangar Marine yeah you have to block carb inputs spark plugs in and exhaust. Pressure to 7-10 Psi. Spray soap water for air leaks. Sometimes you can't pressurize to crankcase because of a gross leak and you need a constant 7psi. And then repeat to vacuum to 10 inches and then spray a light oil to see an increase in vacuum. When completed then do a compression test and no adjacent cylinder should be the same but all cylinders should be within 10 % of each other. This is to see if the labyrinth are sealing between cylinders
I have a quick question for ya. I have a 2003 Evinrude and if you let it sit then go to start it it coughs sputters .it's getting way to much oil. When it clears up it runs great. Could the oil side of the vro have a tear in the diaframs which allows oil to pass into the fuel side when not running? Starts up great and goes fine if you don't shut it down lol
thanks for making these great video's I was wondering not long ago you mentioned making a video on the Joe Reeves timing method I'm really looking forward to seeing that video
My ‘89 Johnson calls for 317002 orifice tool, it doesn’t look like they make that tool anymore and worried about damaging the brass heads of the jets. What do you suggest?
Hi I have a 96 johnson 40 hp,,I want too disconnect the vro too eliminate the oil tank getting in the way in my small boat.can I just disconnect the line off the oil tank and plug it?..the vro doesn't seem to be working anyway ,the oil level isnt going down in the tank I've been premixing feul too be safe
i have a 1978 115etl78C Johnson Seahorse. I have soaked and cleaned the two carbs. Question. Whats the difference between a jet and the idle orifice (317646) and the plug (309781). Also, when replacing the orifice, do I have to lightly seat and then back it out Thirteen turns? Lastly, how does one replace the Plug? What's the Plug's purpose?
The number of turns varies greatly between models. You should check the factory setting for your particular engine. The bowl plug its just there to drain the fuel if you need to.
The brass tube that sticks out the bottom of the carb (6:04) and goes to the bottom of the float bowl should be for the choke circuit. The bottom of that tube has a TINY hole in it and gets blocked easily. U can guess how fun it is trying to start an engine if its blocked:)
Ah, very interesting I was wondering about that as this carb is a very different design to the Yamahas and Hondas I am used to. So what activates the choke circuit?
Ok so at the top of that dip tube it should lead to a chamber that bypasses the butterfly (if it is in fact the choke). Generally this chamber is blocked by a plunger operated by the choke cable. When the plunger is opened the air goes through the chamber bypassing the butterfly and enrichening the mixture. There might be an auto choke mechanism on this OB? Typically all motorcycle carbs and other small engine chokes operate this way
A plunger makes sense, but I didn't see one on this carb. I'll take a look at the service manual and see what it says but it is good to know that that type of choke is out there. Thanks!
BTW I love a good carb over EFI any day. Set them up well and they never let u down. I've dealt mostly with motorcycle carbs but I always set the float levels on the bench using the wet method to ensure fuel level isnt too high in the bowl or it'll always run rich, runs too lean if level too low. I imagine this method can be used on an OB, car etc same as a bike
Dangar Marine A sure way to know is if you look at the end of that tube and it appears to be blocked off except for the tiny pin hole then its definitely part of the choke system :)
Hey, It sounds like the same issue I am having with my 90hp Johnson. Have you found out what was wrong with it? I am currently just tinkering around with mine.
Great video. I'm in the process of rebuilding the vro in my outboard but am finding some bits hard to source ie the oil piston 'o' ring. Could you please pass on your evinrude supplier. I'm assuming you got that 'o' ring. Cheers.
Hi I have a question I have a Evenrude 225 ocean pro and the I change the gas pump because don’t keep the pressure and I primer again and full the gas line engine is running then take all the gas and stop because running out gas again I need help in this one
Hey great video I'm having a issue with my fuel pump too I bought it off the internet it's a 120 Johnson project boat is it possible to run the primer bulb straight to the fuel pump also I noticed the puls hose from the pump to the block where it slips over the fitting inside is blocked off is that normal
I have an old 40hp Johnson outboard and it has a vro system but the guy that I purchased it from has no oil reservoir and runs in a 50:1 ratio in tank. They also took off other pump on side of block. Any thoughts?
8:59 : ..."Fuel mixture that then goes off to the carburetors..." VRO systems do not deliver mixed fuel/oil to the carbs. Oil is directed to the reed valves depending on engine RPM.
hi buddy, I have a Johnson 140hp (about 1987 ish!) and as you know it has this VRO pump on it,, I really don't trust them, is that just me or what?,, I would really like to know what you think about them,, if you were me, what would you personally do?,, would you get it taken off and then use it as an anchor?,, and pre mix my fuel in the main tank,, (all 135 lts of it!) as that is not hard to do, and is not really any hardship!,, or are these VRO's safe for old engines?, because I fell an old engine could benefit from a richer mix of oil,, (and then changing the spark plugs a little more often,, which is also no hardship!) what would you do if you were in my place?,, put up with a little more smoke with the satisfaction of knowing you have oil in the cylinders or stick with this VRO pump?,, and hope the engine don't go with a bang one day out on the sea,, miles from land with 6 people on board and only one hamburger and a half used up 6 pack of beer left to drink,, plus only the one bullet left in your gun? what should I do?
Carburetors - one of the few cases where transitioning from a metal material to a plastic material seems to have been a great idea. Wonder how long before someone tries making exhaust-related parts out of some funky form of plastic... lol. As for VOR pumps, I'm the type of guy who loves to hate newfangled, complex devices that are (sometimes) to complex for Joe Homegamer to service himself, but in the case of 2-stroke gasoline engines requiring mixed fuel (and differing mixes depending on how they're being run at the time), I think it was a great idea that perhaps was long overdue. An as for the 150, like others, I can't wait to see the girl back in action too. Certainly hope you don't hit any more snags along the way.
Hey Stan, I was really impressed with the build of those carbs, plastic really works in that application. I also agree that it makes a lot of sense to vary the amount of oil going into a two stroke. The smoke they make at idle is nuts otherwise!
ahh, but the smell of Nitro brings back so many memories - model planes, and cars, my dirt bike days, gravel rash etc. Nothing beats that smell as I only ever get it when I am relaxing or having fun! yep - addicted for life.
Just rebuild 4 carbs like these because they where leaking gas into the air silencer. After rebuild they still leak and not a little bit. Driving me nuts. You got any idea why they keep leaking?
Hey Stu, One more quick question about this re-build and the mixture screw settings if you don't mind. Do you remember if you had to adjust your mixture screws (lean them out) after your rebuild or did 13 1/2 turns out actually work in that case? Thanks again.
Great vid as usual. I have a 1999 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 that is new to me and I will launch this Spring. It has sat for almost 2yrs in my shop and ran perfect prior to storage. I have no idea if previous owner ran all fuel out or fogged before he removed from his boat to sell to me....but the engine is spotless. Previous owner was pre mixing which leads to my question. What is the correct way to disconnect the VRO system? Looks like previous owner only disconnected brown and tan wire clip on port side of engine.....he did not disconnect anything at VRO .....do I need to???? My concern is that even though I will be premixing I dont want VRO to still be operating....not sure if the 2 brown wires were enough to cut the pump off completely..... Thanks for the education!
Hey Jim, I'll have to look into that, not sure off the top of my head. I recall it had a vacuum line that drove a diaphragm pump so that would definitely need disconnecting too. I would say the wires are just sensor wires.
My memory is still that this is a vacuum pump and will be pumping dry once the oil line has been disconnected. I'm pretty sure disconnecting the wires is just to silence all the alarms and sensors telling you that something is wrong with the pump. I would also disconnect the vacuum line and cap that off to avoid a vacuum leak.
Yes this still leaves me confused. I am not sure what the black and tan wires purpose is other then maybe a sensor like you said. If thats true even with the black and tan harness disconnected the pump will still be running.......but maybe the pump needs to be still running to pump fuel???? In the video link I sent you in the first post the guy in the video disconnects the multi wire harness that is directly connected to the VRO...its the one with the purple wire. Something makes me think this might be correct as it would turn power off to VRO pump I assume. But the guy in the video was unsure of himself and just guessing.....I like to be sure about the things that could blow up my engine. Does your shop manual tell you the purpose of the black and tan harness and the other multi wire harness on the VRO???? I could send you pics but would need your email......I also need to know exactly where the positive and negative battery cable go. I bought this engine used and it wasnt hooked up when it was delivered to me so I have 2 loose nuts on the starter which are obviously where the wires were connected......but how do I know which wire goes where? Sorry for the long reply and the ramble.....I have tried calling Johnson Evinrude BRP they no longer have tech support...I am also on a boating website and have posed the same questions there. I appreciate your videos and replies.....
Hey Jim. I'll check the manual for the wires on Monday. The battery cables are hooked negative to a bolt that mounts the starter motor casing and the positive to the starter solenoid. One terminal on the solenoid will go to the starter, the other goes to the positive terminal on the battery.
Hi Dangar Marine. I have a Johnson 90 VRO outboard motor on my boat. The engine has a problem. I think the problem is in the carburetors. I have disassembled the four carburetors and cleaned them but the problem continues. The engine stops when it accelerates little. The engine if fast accelerates is revolutionized but with low revolutions stops. The gasoline pump works well and sends gasoline with pressure. Can you help me? please
Good evening, I have a question about a 90 hp evinrude etec 2006 engine, I came from another workshop with the oil pressure problem, I got another oil pump which I found that the engine was missing a round plate with a hole of approximately 1 mm , which goes inside the oil distributor where the oil pump stub axles come out, I would like to know if this model has it thanks
Quick question, on a 1988 OMC V4 VRO J110 TLCCA model motor, for the ignition wiring diagram, what is the black and dark green striped cable for? I think ive got most of the wires identified, except for the black and dark green striped wire. By process of eliminition, I am assuming this wire is the emergency shut off? Thanks in advance.
Dangar Marine no, I think the wire was changed at some point. I wired the ignition switch last night fired it up and it would appear that the green and black goes to emergency shut off. Next step will be to install the emergency shut off switch. My next question is the shut off wiring. Ive set up a piece of ground extending out of the ignition to the emergency shut off. Ive also attached another piece of yellow 12 gauge running from the ignition amd attaching it to the shut off. My kill switch has four prongs. Two marked with "M" and two marked with "C". My understanding is that two stroke engines use the "M" prongs as they are Magneto. Can you confirm this is the case? Great videos mate and hello from San Diego, California!
I'm not much of a fan of those plastic johnyrude carbs, I do like the the lack of scale and corrosion but on the other hand they are notorious for leaks at the float bowl gasket due to warping of both the bowls and the carb bodies, u have to be very careful not to overtighten the bowl screws or they are easily warped. I also had one set, both banks, that would flood after I rebuilt them, all new parts, correct float heights, they were fine off the engine but once bolted on with the correct torque all would overflow the bowls. I fixed the issue by buying and rebuilding a used set of carbs. You probably did this but don't forget to check the needle, seat, and float height in the vapor separator tank in the middle of the octopus and a new cover gasket for the tank isn't a bad idea. Also check the filter behind the white nut but again u probably know this.
Hey mate, appreciate the tips. I'm not familiar at all with these Evinrudes so happy to hear any tips people have. I did check the filter but I didn't know about the VST so I'm glad you mentioned it. Thank you! :)
Hi stu I have acquired a 35 Elan evinrude. Did I get a lemon 1998 model. I have been told I should remove oil tank and pre mix can I have some input on this motor please
Hi Mike, not sure what an Elan motor is, I've never seen one. With regards to going to premix, I don't think it is a bad way to go. It certainly takes some of the risk out of the mixture system failing.
Tell me, please, I want to disable the VRO system boat Four wins fling 1995, is that possible? And thin tubes in the block and the carburetor for what are they? It's not a VRO by chance.
A lot of guys just delete the VRO and pre-mix. Less things to go wrong I guess. I am told though, that VRO actually adjusts mixture based on RPM's. At idle you don't necessarily want same ratio as WOT. Too much oil can cause damage the same way as too little?
There is no doubt that premix is safer. As you touch on, the trouble with premix is you add the ration required for WOT so you get way too much oil at idle. Automixing is a great idea, something that ETEC has taken to limit, but if it fails it can go very wrong. Too much oil really just means carbonisation of pistons and plugs, much better than too little oil!
If you haven't changed anything else in the motor then the carburettor jets will just need cleaning from time to time, all the rest of the tuning is done from the external screws.
Hello, I have a 97 Johnson 200hp and found out I have a bad cylinder/piston. I believe it is number 6. When it was open up all the other pistons and cylinders were in good condition. My question is what would cause a bad that cylinder/piston to go bad and the others still in good condition? They had told me it could be a bad crankcase gasket. Any thoughts?
Hi there, that is an interesting question. It can be a lot of things. It could be that the crank case had a bad seal on that piston allowing it to run lean. I'm not that familiar with that outboard, does it have one carburettor per cylinder? If so, that is probably a more likely way to have one cylinder run lean and get or hot not get the lubrication it needs. Can you tell me more about what they meant by "bad"?
Dangar Marine The cylinder's sleeve was damaged due to the damaged piston ring and piston itself was somewhat damaged as well but had more play than the rest. Should be getting it back from the shop this weekend but was wondering if I should clean the carbs as well. The mechanic didn't mentioned cleaning them o been a possibility of the damaged cylinder/piston.
Get a leak down test on each cylinder done. If a crank case seal is bad they can act as one way valves and bleed fuel/air from one crank case area to another. You need to do that leak down with the piston at BDC so you can pressurise the crank case . The 2 end cylinders are the most at risk, they can vent/draw air in from the out side world.
At 13:05 where did you get that piston seal? I have searched everywhere, and couldn't find one. I ended up putting on a stock o ring from an autoparts store. Not sure if that was a good idea or not. Just cant find the right part. All the marine supply stores just want to sell the whole pump for $500.
From memory I didn't buy any new parts for this, just took it apart to clean and inspect. If the o-ring is the same dimensions I'm sure it will be fine.
Dangar Marine you are the man. I’ve searched my boat problems and everytime your videos pop up. I routinely watch your videos to keep my boat going. I’m a carpenter not a mechanic but your videos, talk and instructions make me feel somewhat competent in this field of loving fishing and keeping a boat going. My personal thank you. If you were local I’d pay you all day. Thank you
I appreciate your videos. I just bought a boat with a 60 hp evi rude. Was having trouble with mist coming out of carb. I took off the reed valves and found 2 screws had fallen in and was keeping one Valve open. The previous owner had redone the carbs. I'm glad I saw your video.
I really appreciate all your videos. I have read the shop manuals for my current outboard and past outboards front to back and have done my own maintenance to a point. But, your explanation really makes sense out of it all. Especially, this video for these carburetors on the larger V6 engine (which I currently own). I like to do my own maintenance. If I do it, I know I have done it correctly by following every step. Its hard to know that a shop has done that work correctly. Your videos tie everything together and make sense out of what the shop manual is attempting to say. I wanted to say many thanks! and that I appreciate your videos!
Hey mate, glad the videos have been helping you. Yes, it is very satisfying to do your own maintenance and know that no steps have been missed.
Your videos sure beat watching TV! Thank you again.
You're welcome mate, really great to hear you are enjoying the vids. :)
So glad it's finally getting built back up Stu. Glad to be able to "tag along" and see it all go back together.
Thanks mate, I'm really looking forward to putting this back together and I'll be sure to film every step of the way! :)
One thing I meant to add is I have a 99 Ocean Pro V6 200. The carburetors seems to be a little leaky. Some people have stated on forums that the plastic bowls warp just a little and will cause some fuel leakage. My plan, thanks to your video and explanation, is to remove each carb, clean the jets and the passages and put everything back together. I am planning on leaving the throttle body in place and cleaning the holes in the throttle body with carb cleaner and compressed air. Again, you have provided more details than the shop manual! Many thanks!
Those plastic carb bowls can leak a bit, but most of the warping is caused by people doing them up too tightly. Just get them snug so the seal and do its job and resist the urge to really crank the screws down.
I want to thank you for this video. You saved me from buying a new motor. Keep up the great videos.
You're welcome mate, glad you got it fixed.
@@DangarMarine hi, i have a evinrude 200 and is burning to much oil should I start with the vro?
Thanks
Hope this Helps... 1995-1996 models at least. This is a 60 deg V6 engine, which would be the same for the 150 and 175 Ocean Runners. On the low idle air bleed screws that you turned out 13 1/2 half turns, the manual advises to set the initial setting at 5 full turns out. Then while idling under load with the prop engaged, adjust each idle screw 1/8th of a turn in either direction depending upon if it is lean or rich, and when you can obtain the maximum rpm at that idle for the engine, then you move on to the next (Throttle Body) carb, and repeat the process through all six individually, but again, the default setting would be 5 full turns out from seated. I believe mine were at about 6 1/2 turns out and I was experiencing a lean condition. Set them back to five, and it resolved the lean "Sneeze". But that didn't appear until after I had fixed a few fuel line issues that I believe were the source of additional air leaks. Somebody had previously adjusted the carbs for the existing leaks rather than fixing the leaks.
You are the only person who can scientifically explain
I'm in the process of repairing a 1976 20hp Evinrude, love the simplicity of the older motors. Bought for $80 with a junk carb, and a snapped head bolt. The lower unit has a new forward gear and bearings so worth a bit of time to get running again. Just waiting on the head gasket to arrive.
You're first trip out on the water is going to be very satisfying once you get it all back together. I hope it all goes well for you. Waiting for parts is always the most frustrating part!
The hard part is done managed to drill out the old bolt and tap new threads without busting the tap off.
That's cool. What are your rebuild costs so far?
I had a spare carb off an 18hp that was an exact match it needed the choke freed up, $10 for the tap, $25 for the head gasket and another $12 for the head bolts, and $2 for hose clamps Grand total of $129.
always a bonus if u have the major parts to bolt on :)
Had one of these VRO's on 115 Fast Strike. Stopped pushing gas, disassembled checked it all out, did all the vacuum tests couldn't find a thing wrong with it. Replaced all the rubber bits re-tested, it passed all the vacuum checks in the manual. I installed it in the boat, same issue no fuel to carbs. Took it off and replaced with a fuel pump without VRO section on it. Run premix now never could figure out why the other one wouldn't pump fuel.
Im learning so much about my 2001 ocean pro 90...thank you.
NOTE: at 11:43 that hose you mentioned as the pulse hose is actually the fuel inlet hose....the pulse hose is on the air motor side (where the main spring is)...Also that piston does not drive the pump.
the air motor side is what drives the pump to give it the linear motion.There are check valves in the air motor side that First pulls a vacuum, then Second pushes air in front of the air motor diaphragm.....that in/out pulse squeezes the mainspring.
While it is squeezing the mainspring it is drawing fuel into the chamber (the other side where the hamster cage and brown flapper is), and it is drawing oil into the piston's bore.
When the pressure on the air motor side is enough to over power the smaller spring, the main spring pushes the whole linkage towards the oil side...the piston shoots towards the oil side forcing the oil though tiny channels into the mixing chamber.
it is hard to describe what is going on in english....I'm going to enlist an animator to animate the goings on. Sorry to be a booger and contradict you. I DO enjoy your videos very much, it is just you got this wrong.
I hate to derail, but....I did some research that I think you'd like to read.
forums.iboats.com/forum/engine-repair-and-maintenance/johnson-evinrude-outboards/10424150-just-a-little-insight-into-the-oil-side-of-the-vro2-oms
Wow very educational and detailed explanation 👀👍
Thanks STU. You’ve given me hope on my granddad’s Evinrude 120 vro. 1985.
Hasn’t ran in years but never been in salt water.
Bass boat. Question is after checking carbs and such should I replace water pump impeller before I start or wait till it’s starts first. I’ve heard that particulates could potentially block water pump flow. Your advise please.
I work on these 60 degree loopers alot, major problem with carbs is the plastic float bowls, they warp and start leaking, other than that it's a great fuel delivery system, very responsive and not hard to maintain, I own a 2005 model 150 that's been a great engine
+craigd51 You're are the second person to mention the carb bowls warping, I'll make sure I double check for leaks when I first prime it.
craigd51 I second that on warping float bowls
What's the best fix for this? Are the available or discontinued?
@@krishall3187 new OEM bowls are available from Evinrude, if you swap to new ones don’t forget to change the high speed jet over to the new ones
Can you make a video on how to illuminate the vro pump and just use a premix of fuel?
Dangar Marine you are a very cleaver marine man , your videos are spot on very very helpful many thanks cheers Laurie H
The vro pump is what took a couple cylinders in mine. So the motor was rebuilt and snipped the wires to the new vro pump and premix it now for 10 years.
Your the best dude I’ve got a 70 hp VRO and my pump went today it’s nice to know how to fix it!
Hey Stu! Thank you for these really informative and helpful vids! I know the post is over a year old, but I am rebuilding this same engine currently (Johnson) and I have a comment that may help or assist others in the future. Inspecting and cleaning all carbs as you are in this video,I started with #6 because that is my worst cylinder (scoring and probable heat damage) and I am still trying to determine the exact cause.
I have mixed feelings about the plastic carbs also because as I re-assembled #6 carb, I found a crack in the float bowl on the side of the low speed circuit reservoir (where the brass pick-up tube sits). As I inspected the other carbs, I found almost identical cracks on EVERY one in the same location! Number 6 is the worst of them, but they all have at least a noticeable hairline crack. Also, most of the mixture screws were turned out 11 - 14 turns. The manual says beginning setting is 5 turns out. I was pondering how a crack in the idle fuel/air reservoir might lean out a mixture and require a much richer setting. Anyway, I am waiting on 6 new float bowls and thinking about how to pro-actively protect them from the same fate. I wish I could post a picture of the crack, but if you look at the side of the carb with the low speed circuit cover (5 screws), below that there is a vertical rectangular portion on the lower right, just left of the float bowl screw. The cracks appear on that little rectangular portion that is bumped out. THANKS AGAIN for all the help from Woodstock, New York, USA! Todd W.
Hey Todd, thanks for sharing your experience. It certainly sounds like something people should keep an eye out for. It sounds to me like maybe down the track somebody over tightened the float bowls when reinstalling causing these cracks.
It is a bit of a mystery that all six have virtually the same crack even if they were all overtightened during their life (actually, none of the screws seemed very tight). I am curious to see if the new ones have any beginning hairline crack as it almost seems like a flaw in the molding process. I also wonder if any others have noticed a similar crack in their carbs. Anyway, it is not likely the cause of my engine issue, but it certainly wasn't going to help! Thanks again for the great vids!
great video as always. i have johnson 150 60 degree motor. i have been pre mixing. my vro/fuel pump has taken a hit. very expensive and i don't use vro. i purchased a after market retro fit fuel pump only. hope it all lines up. cheers from Tampa, Forida
Thanks mate, good luck with the swap over. :)
Hi mate, thanks for all your tutorials it’s so wonderful and useful, I’ve got envinrude 200 ocean pro, this engine smoke so much I checked and clean carb. And it’s all okay Can you tell me what could be the problem here please? My guess is spending more oil than petrol but VRO looks okay.
Thanks again
Thanks for the comeback. I figured out today my outboard is running on one piston, it has spark, spark plugs are good, I cleaned my carburetors somewhat, and checked the compression all at 80psi. What else can I do? I haven't done a vacuum test yet. I'm about to clean my carbs again. FYI the very bottom piston is the one that's firing
Again!!! Great explanation. You're my go to man for my 2000 50n HP Johnson fixes.
Hi Stu, I enjoy all the videos, but the Evinrude ones in particular as I've always had Johnson outboards, just worked out that way. I've never fully trusted the VRO system and removed it from my last outboard. One less thing to worry about. The smoke never bothered me, in fact it is one of my favorite smells, smells like freedom. Keep em coming,.....Tony
Hey Tony, it's funny you should say that. Years ago my mate Paul and I were talking about how two stroke is a bad smell, but the association is a good one, I know what you are saying. :)
Another terrific video Stu, thanks. That VRO pump looks like it came out of the "Alien" movie.
Thanks Bob. Yes, they are crazy looking. :)
If you don't say why Iran attached isriael , then your not telling the whole story
i think your clock needed a new battery ;)
great videos too, thoroughly enjoy them
Thanks mate, battery all done. ;) th-cam.com/video/p9zM4ancTWg/w-d-xo.html
BTW Stu I have a set of #72D high speed jets if you need them out of a 175HP, it will depend on what the current 150 jets are, they could be #56 or #70 and #71. If you wanted to go up 1 size.
Thanks Jason, I'll take one carb off and see what's in there. I did a bit of work on it last night (water in the fuel tank after all this rain unfortunately), but it is getting very close to starting!
No problem, if you want them they are all yours. I have a few other new items you can also have. Carb gaskets, and T stats, etc... NO use to me now.
I must have missed this video the first time around ! VRO are blamed for many problems. Disassembly and inspection is the proper thing to do and probably should be done after about 10 years. You need to carefully inspect the hoses all the way back to the oil tank to make sure there are no air leaks or restrictions in the hose.
For good measure, drain, remove and clean the oil reservoir tank. This should be done maybe every 5 years.
Yep, periodic inspection certainly can save you from a whole lot of trouble. Completely agree with cleaning the tank out every few years too.
Dangar Marine I enjoy ur TH-cam videos
Hi Dangar I've watched many of your videos, I live in Zimbabwe Africa and have a 150 evinrude entruder. Can you explain the return fuel lines and there uses? You mentioned in one video that you weren't sure what they were for and where they connected! On a rebuild, but I'm sure you have found out by now ?
Many thanks for your great teaching! Keep it up 👍🏼🙏🏼
Another great video. I do premix cause I just don't trust those VRO pumps.
Thanks Gary. Yes, better safe than sorry!
I just have that problem now and I order the pump and I see this video now and I don’t know they have the kit for that pump so I my gonna order the kit to fix the old one that way I have one spare good video 🎼🎶🎺👍🚣♀️I’m from Orlando Florida
Nice work Stu!! Can't wait for part 2!
Thanks Will, I'm looking forward to getting this back together too. :)
on some models there are aluminum Welch plugs on the side of the throttle body that are notorious for drawing excess air into the idle/mid-range fuel circuit and this causes a lean condition on the cylinders effected at all speeds except WOT.
Always tighten those plugs up with a proper sized punch and a few taps with a hammer.
It looks like this one has a plate and gasket covering the throttle body ports, so I would replace those gaskets (6) just to be sure.
Also be sure to remove the pulse limiter and be sure no debris is restricting flow through it. Better yet....just replace it to be sure since they are not expensive.
Good tip, I'll be sure to check those out. I do have a full gasket kit for this outboard so I will be replacing them all as we go.
Ha I have 70 Johnsons I have change plug leads and stater pack it’s run’s fantastic for the first hour or so then it goes into lup mode can’t go past 3000 rpm water pump is working great can you help thankyou John
How often do you see these Johnson 150 carb bowls cracked? Mine is a 2004 always garage kept and all 6 have identical cracks. Motor has never been worked on. Also I’m going to delete the vro should I replace it with a plain fuel pump. I think they make an oem replacement that bolts in place of the vro.
love your videos so helpful. I have a 1983 Johnson 140 hp outboard I have put new plugs new fuel pump and cleaned the carbs with spray cleaner did a compression test and my numbers are 115 120 115 115 put it runs like it is under power what would cause that and how can I fix it .Your the best guy and keep the videos coming
I would be checking you have spark on every cylinder and the timing is correct at full throttle.
As a diesel mechanic venturing into marine life I fully enjoy your tutorials. I actually dabbled in motorcycles for awhile as well and It’s not to far off relatively speaking. I will be purchasing a twin pack of Evinrude 250’s in a week or so. I was wondering if you did find anything that caused the 150 to crap out?
Unfortunately not. There are a few theories from blocked carbs causing it to run lean through to water in the fuel, but no definitive answer.
Thanks. Good video, though I would have preferred to see you explain how to take the carbs and base plate off motor on boat.Got myself a t-shirt to thank you for all the information you provide.
Yes, unfortunately this is a part of a larger project so doing it as a standalone job wasn't possible, but I do know what you mean about showing some tasks start to finish. Thanks for buying a t-shirt! :)
Ahhh mate I’m so happy you made this video. I have a 2005 Johnson 90 2 stroke. It’s great to see someone else working in one the same or similar. Mine is smoky when cold starting. More than it used to be. Once warmed all is good. Any clues why that might be? I just the Seloc service manual and it seems to be a very good book packed with useful info. Except the font is tiny and I struggle to read it! All the best Stu. Today my new dangar marine shirt arrived. My way of supporting your channel. Keep up the good work dude !
Hello Dangar!
I have a J225hglssc and out of nowhere have encountered a problem.
If I start the engine cold and burn it to my fishing spot, my bass boat jumps on plane and will fly to destination. Then I drop trolling motor and fish for a while. The engine starts up sounds a smidge week at idle and when I hit the hot foot the boat takes three times as long to get on plane and will only run 45-50 as opposed to 65-70?
In short, it will act like normal on the way out. When I’m done fishing that spot and try to relocate engine feels like it’s only producing half power.
The VRO is disabled and I mix my fuel at 50:1. Your thoughts?
Hey Stu! Thanks for a pleasent informative video . I wounder if you have the part number for the piston seal ? I cannot find it and my fast strike 150 -93 realy needs one
Regards , Johnny
its 12.30 at night and I'm gripped to the edge of my seat..what will the autopsy result reveal?…who killed the evinrude?…was it a flathead?..was it old mate on the jetty?..was it the stealthy jewfisherman in the early hours near the bridge?..the suspense:)
We've all been wondering that and Stu is keeping us in suspense! :-)
mynameismud improper fuel mixture or the head was warped whenever it was last rebuilt are the only two I can think of at this point. Im sure eits something more complicated tho.
I wish I knew! I'm really starting to suspect timing now but we'll see where that is at when it all goes back together.
suspense string.
As in pre-ignition issues due to timing being out ?
All I have ever heard about OMC VRO's is disconnect them and don't take the risk...interesting.
Just going over my first ever OMC - 1996 Johnson 130hp and it drove the guy nuts so he gave it away. Beautiful motor but I picked it up in pieces on a pallet.
Nothing wrong except the flywheel center magnet so far.
I think the mechanic involved wasn't a subscriber to Dangar marine, I am having a blast putting it together.
The diaphragm with big spring make the pump motion not the oil pump. On the other side of the diaphragm, where fuel pump is connected to diaphragm, is a oil seal which is hold in place by a metal ring. If this seal is not in place or metal ring is missing, than carbs won't get enough fuel. In your video at 12:22 I can't see the seal.
My shirt arrived today. I guess we'll see how long The 1990 gt 175 Johnson keeps running? New filters today. They dont like water.
New filters are always a good thing.
seeing how nice everything looks, I would be checking for too much advance or the proper prop size and style.....did they just over rev the motor? the piston tops would show signs pf pre-detonation?
Come back Stu, we miss you!
Great video i know its been awhile since this video was made. I have been watching a lot of your videos and thank you for sharing your knowledge. I think alot of boaters at the dock over revs
There motor in neutral just trying to warm it up. Could That causes damage without knowing. thanks again
Thanks Jeff. I think it is best to keep the revs lower until the motor warms up a bit, but with a two stroke you also then run the risk of fouling up the plugs unfortunately.
A while ago i told u about my merc 50 with oil injection that was leaking oil on cowl floor. I replaced the line from the oil tank to pump (which was stretched). I still had oil leaking. The only other possible reason was a 2 psi check vale. i replaced and problem solved. My pump is crank driven so its a little different. The older (80s) model had a bad problem with a plastic gear but mine is metal so apparently its a great sytem and actually advised NOT TO go to premix. I have heard horry stories about older johnny vros but don't know if it was certain years. On other 2 strokes there is a idle and wot line to calibrate and check vro. On my merc i only have an idle line and the manual suggest to pull line and measure in a cup the oil output. I wish my merc had both lines because there is some slop in the oil pump linkage and its pissn me off!! I want to know for sure im getting lubed up at all rpms lol
Glad to hear you got the problem solved. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you that it gives you all the oil you need!
Hi Stu, sorry if you answered this already. I am rebuilding carbs on my 1988 Johnson 150 and wanted to know if it is common practice to use gasket sealer on both sides of carb/manifold gasket? Or none at all?
I generally use none but if you get a leak you could certainly try some sealer.
Pretty awesome octopus you have there. A bit complicated. Nice work.
Yeah, it looks a bit daunting as a unit but when you take each part one at a time it isn't too bad.
I have had nothing but headaches from the Bowles warping from ethanol. Have you ever used rtv sealant on the plastic warping
Do not. I just cleaned a set that had rtv over the gasket, it gets all through the system. Just buy new bowls and omc gaskets
Thanks for your videos. In question to the float bowls warping what is the best way to repair this? Are they available or discontuned?
New bowls, the are available
Thanks stu I will try and check hating and then Process. Of ilimination
Why would fuel come out of those plastic carbs when idling or when starting
Lower cylinders that have a burnt piston from a lean condition is from a leak in the crankcase. Pressure and vacuum testing.
A good hint is your exhaust gasket is usually the problem
When the powerhead went back on a new gasket went in and it was treated with the sealants as recommended in the service manual so I'm pretty confident that any leak that may have been there will now be gone. Any tips on pressure testing the crankcase on an outboard?
Dangar Marine yeah you have to block carb inputs spark plugs in and exhaust.
Pressure to 7-10 Psi. Spray soap water for air leaks. Sometimes you can't pressurize to crankcase because of a gross leak and you need a constant 7psi.
And then repeat to vacuum to 10 inches and then spray a light oil to see an increase in vacuum.
When completed then do a compression test and no adjacent cylinder should be the same but all cylinders should be within 10 % of each other. This is to see if the labyrinth are sealing between cylinders
Hi ! Good job , an thanks for the video .
Where I can find the service manual from Evinrude intruder spitfire series 175hp ? I’m blessed if find it
I am surprised you didn't have to replace the float bowls. These carbs are notorious for warping, creating a gap between the bowl and carb body.
I have a quick question for ya.
I have a 2003 Evinrude and if you let it sit then go to start it it coughs sputters .it's getting way to much oil.
When it clears up it runs great. Could the oil side of the vro have a tear in the diaframs which allows oil to pass into the fuel side when not running? Starts up great and goes fine if you don't shut it down lol
thanks for making these great video's I was wondering not long ago you mentioned making a video on the Joe Reeves timing method I'm really looking forward to seeing that video
Ah yes, I really must do that one soon. Thanks for the reminder.
Is there a way to convert this particular vro to basic pump and pre mix gas
Why my fuel pump in 1985 Johnson outboard 115 hp doesn’t have the power cords ?
My ‘89 Johnson calls for 317002 orifice tool, it doesn’t look like they make that tool anymore and worried about damaging the brass heads of the jets. What do you suggest?
The best maestro ever thanks
Thanks mate!
is it possible to clean this metal mesh on 3:21?
My 93 evinrude 150 starts at home with the water hose hooked up but as soon as i put it in the water it won't start. Any ideas. I'm lost
Hi I have a 96 johnson 40 hp,,I want too disconnect the vro too eliminate the oil tank getting in the way in my small boat.can I just disconnect the line off the oil tank and plug it?..the vro doesn't seem to be working anyway ,the oil level isnt going down in the tank I've been premixing feul too be safe
i have a 1978 115etl78C Johnson Seahorse. I have soaked and cleaned the two carbs. Question. Whats the difference between a jet and the idle orifice (317646) and the plug (309781). Also, when replacing the orifice, do I have to lightly seat and then back it out Thirteen turns? Lastly, how does one replace the Plug? What's the Plug's purpose?
The number of turns varies greatly between models. You should check the factory setting for your particular engine.
The bowl plug its just there to drain the fuel if you need to.
They also recommend running pre mix for the first 10 hours after a rebuild.
Yep, will definitely be doing this.
Hi mate would u have an idea what problem im having.my boat will only rev to 3000rpm it's a 1999 evinrude 225hp 2 stroke
I have a 115 johnson 2001 v4 can you show where the balance hose for the balance tube manifold connect to? thank you
I have a 1988 Evinrude that goes coughing when Arlington dies and you can start it back up how can I fix the problem
The brass tube that sticks out the bottom of the carb (6:04) and goes to the bottom of the float bowl should be for the choke circuit. The bottom of that tube has a TINY hole in it and gets blocked easily. U can guess how fun it is trying to start an engine if its blocked:)
Ah, very interesting I was wondering about that as this carb is a very different design to the Yamahas and Hondas I am used to. So what activates the choke circuit?
Ok so at the top of that dip tube it should lead to a chamber that bypasses the butterfly (if it is in fact the choke). Generally this chamber is blocked by a plunger operated by the choke cable. When the plunger is opened the air goes through the chamber bypassing the butterfly and enrichening the mixture. There might be an auto choke mechanism on this OB? Typically all motorcycle carbs and other small engine chokes operate this way
A plunger makes sense, but I didn't see one on this carb. I'll take a look at the service manual and see what it says but it is good to know that that type of choke is out there. Thanks!
BTW I love a good carb over EFI any day. Set them up well and they never let u down. I've dealt mostly with motorcycle carbs but I always set the float levels on the bench using the wet method to ensure fuel level isnt too high in the bowl or it'll always run rich, runs too lean if level too low. I imagine this method can be used on an OB, car etc same as a bike
Dangar Marine
A sure way to know is if you look at the end of that tube and it appears to be blocked off except for the tiny pin hole then its definitely part of the choke system :)
Thanks for the info. Problem idle is great put in gear 3/4 good full throttle starts dying if not fast enough dies. 90 evenruide any ideas please sir?
Hey, It sounds like the same issue I am having with my 90hp Johnson. Have you found out what was wrong with it? I am currently just tinkering around with mine.
Great video. I'm in the process of rebuilding the vro in my outboard but am finding some bits hard to source ie the oil piston 'o' ring. Could you please pass on your evinrude supplier. I'm assuming you got that 'o' ring. Cheers.
Thanks mate. I got the parts for that motor through MarineEngine.com
Hi I have a question I have a Evenrude 225 ocean pro and the I change the gas pump because don’t keep the pressure and I primer again and full the gas line engine is running then take all the gas and stop because running out gas again I need help in this one
Hey great video I'm having a issue with my fuel pump too I bought it off the internet it's a 120 Johnson project boat is it possible to run the primer bulb straight to the fuel pump also I noticed the puls hose from the pump to the block where it slips over the fitting inside is blocked off is that normal
I have an old 40hp Johnson outboard and it has a vro system but the guy that I purchased it from has no oil reservoir and runs in a 50:1 ratio in tank. They also took off other pump on side of block. Any thoughts?
8:59 : ..."Fuel mixture that then goes off to the carburetors..." VRO systems do not deliver mixed fuel/oil to the carbs. Oil is directed to the reed valves depending on engine RPM.
No it doesn't. This pump simply mixes oil into the fuel proportional to RPM. ww2-secure.justanswer.com/uploads/whitesmarine/2010-02-10_183813_VRO.jpg
What number did you come up with for the correct adjustment of the carburetor needle screw?
hi buddy, I have a Johnson 140hp (about 1987 ish!) and as you know it has this VRO pump on it,, I really don't trust them, is that just me or what?,, I would really like to know what you think about them,, if you were me, what would you personally do?,, would you get it taken off and then use it as an anchor?,, and pre mix my fuel in the main tank,, (all 135 lts of it!) as that is not hard to do, and is not really any hardship!,, or are these VRO's safe for old engines?, because I fell an old engine could benefit from a richer mix of oil,, (and then changing the spark plugs a little more often,, which is also no hardship!) what would you do if you were in my place?,, put up with a little more smoke with the satisfaction of knowing you have oil in the cylinders or stick with this VRO pump?,, and hope the engine don't go with a bang one day out on the sea,, miles from land with 6 people on board and only one hamburger and a half used up 6 pack of beer left to drink,, plus only the one bullet left in your gun? what should I do?
Very nice man! Thanks! :)
You're welcome. :)
Carburetors - one of the few cases where transitioning from a metal material to a plastic material seems to have been a great idea. Wonder how long before someone tries making exhaust-related parts out of some funky form of plastic... lol. As for VOR pumps, I'm the type of guy who loves to hate newfangled, complex devices that are (sometimes) to complex for Joe Homegamer to service himself, but in the case of 2-stroke gasoline engines requiring mixed fuel (and differing mixes depending on how they're being run at the time), I think it was a great idea that perhaps was long overdue. An as for the 150, like others, I can't wait to see the girl back in action too. Certainly hope you don't hit any more snags along the way.
Hey Stan, I was really impressed with the build of those carbs, plastic really works in that application. I also agree that it makes a lot of sense to vary the amount of oil going into a two stroke. The smoke they make at idle is nuts otherwise!
ahh, but the smell of Nitro brings back so many memories - model planes, and cars, my dirt bike days, gravel rash etc. Nothing beats that smell as I only ever get it when I am relaxing or having fun! yep - addicted for life.
Just rebuild 4 carbs like these because they where leaking gas into the air silencer. After rebuild they still leak and not a little bit. Driving me nuts. You got any idea why they keep leaking?
Did you use the white ring under the needle seat? If so take them out
Hey Stu, One more quick question about this re-build and the mixture screw settings if you don't mind. Do you remember if you had to adjust your mixture screws (lean them out) after your rebuild or did 13 1/2 turns out actually work in that case? Thanks again.
These turned out to be pretty good at the factory setting from memory.
Thanks Mate for the video s really appreciate it!
Great vid as usual. I have a 1999 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 that is new to me and I will launch this Spring. It has sat for almost 2yrs in my shop and ran perfect prior to storage. I have no idea if previous owner ran all fuel out or fogged before he removed from his boat to sell to me....but the engine is spotless. Previous owner was pre mixing which leads to my question. What is the correct way to disconnect the VRO system? Looks like previous owner only disconnected brown and tan wire clip on port side of engine.....he did not disconnect anything at VRO .....do I need to???? My concern is that even though I will be premixing I dont want VRO to still be operating....not sure if the 2 brown wires were enough to cut the pump off completely..... Thanks for the education!
Hey Jim, I'll have to look into that, not sure off the top of my head. I recall it had a vacuum line that drove a diaphragm pump so that would definitely need disconnecting too. I would say the wires are just sensor wires.
My memory is still that this is a vacuum pump and will be pumping dry once the oil line has been disconnected. I'm pretty sure disconnecting the wires is just to silence all the alarms and sensors telling you that something is wrong with the pump. I would also disconnect the vacuum line and cap that off to avoid a vacuum leak.
Yes this still leaves me confused. I am not sure what the black and tan wires purpose is other then maybe a sensor like you said. If thats true even with the black and tan harness disconnected the pump will still be running.......but maybe the pump needs to be still running to pump fuel???? In the video link I sent you in the first post the guy in the video disconnects the multi wire harness that is directly connected to the VRO...its the one with the purple wire. Something makes me think this might be correct as it would turn power off to VRO pump I assume. But the guy in the video was unsure of himself and just guessing.....I like to be sure about the things that could blow up my engine. Does your shop manual tell you the purpose of the black and tan harness and the other multi wire harness on the VRO???? I could send you pics but would need your email......I also need to know exactly where the positive and negative battery cable go. I bought this engine used and it wasnt hooked up when it was delivered to me so I have 2 loose nuts on the starter which are obviously where the wires were connected......but how do I know which wire goes where? Sorry for the long reply and the ramble.....I have tried calling Johnson Evinrude BRP they no longer have tech support...I am also on a boating website and have posed the same questions there. I appreciate your videos and replies.....
Hey Jim. I'll check the manual for the wires on Monday. The battery cables are hooked negative to a bolt that mounts the starter motor casing and the positive to the starter solenoid. One terminal on the solenoid will go to the starter, the other goes to the positive terminal on the battery.
Thank you my friend. Have a good weekend!
Hi Dangar Marine.
I have a Johnson 90 VRO outboard motor on my boat. The engine has a problem. I think the problem is in the carburetors. I have disassembled the four carburetors and cleaned them but the problem continues. The engine stops when it accelerates little. The engine if fast accelerates is revolutionized but with low revolutions stops. The gasoline pump works well and sends gasoline with pressure.
Can you help me? please
Good evening, I have a question about a 90 hp evinrude etec 2006 engine, I came from another workshop with the oil pressure problem, I got another oil pump which I found that the engine was missing a round plate with a hole of approximately 1 mm , which goes inside the oil distributor where the oil pump stub axles come out, I would like to know if this model has it thanks
Quick question, on a 1988 OMC V4 VRO J110 TLCCA model motor, for the ignition wiring diagram, what is the black and dark green striped cable for? I think ive got most of the wires identified, except for the black and dark green striped wire. By process of eliminition, I am assuming this wire is the emergency shut off? Thanks in advance.
Could it be black and yellow? www.maxrules.com/fixomcwiringcodes.html
Dangar Marine no, I think the wire was changed at some point. I wired the ignition switch last night fired it up and it would appear that the green and black goes to emergency shut off. Next step will be to install the emergency shut off switch. My next question is the shut off wiring. Ive set up a piece of ground extending out of the ignition to the emergency shut off. Ive also attached another piece of yellow 12 gauge running from the ignition amd attaching it to the shut off. My kill switch has four prongs. Two marked with "M" and two marked with "C". My understanding is that two stroke engines use the "M" prongs as they are Magneto. Can you confirm this is the case? Great videos mate and hello from San Diego, California!
I'm not much of a fan of those plastic johnyrude carbs, I do like the the lack of scale and corrosion but on the other hand they are notorious for leaks at the float bowl gasket due to warping of both the bowls and the carb bodies, u have to be very careful not to overtighten the bowl screws or they are easily warped. I also had one set, both banks, that would flood after I rebuilt them, all new parts, correct float heights, they were fine off the engine but once bolted on with the correct torque all would overflow the bowls. I fixed the issue by buying and rebuilding a used set of carbs. You probably did this but don't forget to check the needle, seat, and float height in the vapor separator tank in the middle of the octopus and a new cover gasket for the tank isn't a bad idea. Also check the filter behind the white nut but again u probably know this.
Hey mate, appreciate the tips. I'm not familiar at all with these Evinrudes so happy to hear any tips people have. I did check the filter but I didn't know about the VST so I'm glad you mentioned it. Thank you! :)
I need help re and re of cables for throttle and gear shift on a 9.9 mercury 2 stroke. Tiller
Hi stu I have acquired a 35 Elan evinrude. Did I get a lemon 1998 model. I have been told I should remove oil tank and pre mix can I have some input on this motor please
Hi Mike, not sure what an Elan motor is, I've never seen one. With regards to going to premix, I don't think it is a bad way to go. It certainly takes some of the risk out of the mixture system failing.
Tell me, please, I want to disable the VRO system boat Four wins fling 1995, is that possible? And thin tubes in the block and the carburetor for what are they? It's not a VRO by chance.
Where did you order your pistons from
A lot of guys just delete the VRO and pre-mix. Less things to go wrong I guess. I am told though, that VRO actually adjusts mixture based on RPM's. At idle you don't necessarily want same ratio as WOT. Too much oil can cause damage the same way as too little?
There is no doubt that premix is safer. As you touch on, the trouble with premix is you add the ration required for WOT so you get way too much oil at idle. Automixing is a great idea, something that ETEC has taken to limit, but if it fails it can go very wrong. Too much oil really just means carbonisation of pistons and plugs, much better than too little oil!
I have a 98 4 stroke 50hp Mercury? would my carburator jets need adjusting at all or I just the air screw from the outside is all I need to tune it?
If you haven't changed anything else in the motor then the carburettor jets will just need cleaning from time to time, all the rest of the tuning is done from the external screws.
Hello, I have a 97 Johnson 200hp and found out I have a bad cylinder/piston. I believe it is number 6. When it was open up all the other pistons and cylinders were in good condition. My question is what would cause a bad that cylinder/piston to go bad and the others still in good condition? They had told me it could be a bad crankcase gasket. Any thoughts?
Hi there, that is an interesting question. It can be a lot of things. It could be that the crank case had a bad seal on that piston allowing it to run lean. I'm not that familiar with that outboard, does it have one carburettor per cylinder? If so, that is probably a more likely way to have one cylinder run lean and get or hot not get the lubrication it needs. Can you tell me more about what they meant by "bad"?
Dangar Marine The cylinder's sleeve was damaged due to the damaged piston ring and piston itself was somewhat damaged as well but had more play than the rest. Should be getting it back from the shop this weekend but was wondering if I should clean the carbs as well. The mechanic didn't mentioned cleaning them o been a possibility of the damaged cylinder/piston.
And yes each cylinder has its own carb.
Get a leak down test on each cylinder done. If a crank case seal is bad they can act as one way valves and bleed fuel/air from one crank case area to another. You need to do that leak down with the piston at BDC so you can pressurise the crank case . The 2 end cylinders are the most at risk, they can vent/draw air in from the out side world.
can u tell me why my boat boggs down or goes into limp mode at 30-35 mph?????
At 13:05 where did you get that piston seal?
I have searched everywhere, and couldn't find one. I ended up putting on a stock o ring from an autoparts store. Not sure if that was a good idea or not. Just cant find the right part. All the marine supply stores just want to sell the whole pump for $500.
From memory I didn't buy any new parts for this, just took it apart to clean and inspect. If the o-ring is the same dimensions I'm sure it will be fine.