@@bobbygfl and yesterday I installed a new powerpack, new coils, plugs, wires, and thermostats....engine is happy now. I bought an older Grady White and im doing preventive maintenance stuff. I've watched your videos a bunch before diving in. Again, thanks for taking the time to be very detailed in your videos for us TH-cam mechanics in the world.
If I’m not mistaken, the OMC service manual specifies that the carb float be leveled, as exhibited in the video, which closes the needle valve to stop fuel flow.….but also specifies a dimension for float drop which regulates the fuel flow into the bowl to maintain proper fuel level.
Manual states: "Adjust the float drop with carburetor body in normal position. The drop dimension to bottom of float should be between 11/16 - 1-1/8 in." Manual also states float should be level gasket surface (which you did), but +/- 1/32 in. I can send pic or copy of applicable assembly procedure if you like. If so, please instruct how/where to send.
Hi I have a 1993 and have this operation many times. Great job your step by step instructions. I would love to know if anyone has found a metal bowl from another carb that would work on the plastic carburetor body? Many Thanks
Bobby, I would greatly appreciate your help. I did the full carburetor rebuild even did the bowls. Made sure all my floats were exactly level. Even turned the adjustment screw 5.75 tuns out from seated. The engine runs like garbage idling way too low. Before the carbs, I also replaced coils, wires, gap less plugs, the Fuel pump, gas solenoid, starter and starter selonoid , flywheel cover and timing encoder . I was under the impression that you can't screw up the timing because the encoder can only be installed in one positions. Do you have any ideas?
You can screw up timing if the timing advance notches are not in the right place. it’s part of that ratcheting system I believe. I am not an expert on timing, and I was careful not to mess with it. If you suspect timing, I would hire an old Time mechanic or invest some time researching how to change the timing. As far as what else it could be…. Pretty much covered everything that I have covered. Are you sure you’re getting good fuel flow? Bulb should be hard through the entire time of running the motor. I had a problem years ago and it turned out to be the anti-siphon valve on the fuel tank. I replaced that and everything worked perfectly. I also had a brand new bulb and a brand new fuel filter and I replaced all my fuel line lol. But that anti-siphon valve is not something that lasts forever.
@@bobbygfl Thanks for your reply it means a lot to me. I thought my compression was bad so I checked it is about 110 psi in each cylinder. So I would think this is pretty good. I changed the plugs they were really fowled from all the gas I poured in the gas tank when I was learning how to do the VRO. I must have poured a gallon and a half of oil into the tank. To alleviate gas problems. I am running it off an external gas tank directly to the engine. Same problem exists. I am going to try it with the new spark plugs. The kicker is it is the fastest starting engine I ever seen. That was the original problem that it took so damn long to start.
Great video! I rebuild the carbs in my 1998 johnson 150 and I found out the high speed jets was missing.. can you please tell me what size are they?? Thanks
Where you out the 610 epoxy and that bb goes, if that bb comes out will fuel just oour out? That's what mine is doing and I will be blocking this off with the 610 epoxy if that's the case.
Yes. No bb the fuel will just pour out. But if there is no bb you could push too much 610 into the hole restricting the fuel. Best to just buy a new bowl and 610 it when new.
Great job. Just had my carbs rebuilt and mechanic said I may not need to use the small rectangular parts (pictured on left side of your video at 7:19). Did you not use these either? Thanks.
I have a 85 Evinrude 175 hp motor I'll be working on soon..they said fuel comes out over flow. I suspect it's the float or something stuck so it's over flowing. I'm wondering where I can rebuilt kits.
How do you feel about a complete vro delete? Either go vacuum pump or electric. Seem as the johnsons are notorious for fuel system air leaks due to all the plastic parts warping. Have you heard of anyone doing a Johnson 150? Mines a 2004. Mine works fine now but I feel this thing is a ticking time bomb the way it is now. I have small hairline cracks in all my float bowl so winter maintenance is about to begin.
You know I’m not a mechanic and I don’t really know what you mean by a full delete. I replaced the vro pump with a Evinrude non-vro and it works perfectly if that’s what you mean. Check out my Evinrude playlist I have a video that shows the new pump. Hope that helps
Vros get a bad rap because of carb and line issues. Hardly do pumps fail, they do because of the owners lack of maintenance. I have a 92 150 vro still working perfect.
i rebuilt the same carb but I did not have a washer on the part where the needle goes in on the float, so I went head did not use the washer that came with the kit for the seat that the needle goes in, is this going to be a problem??
It’s hard to say. If you didn’t have it it’s probably because the last person didn’t put it in lost it who knows it should be there. I don’t know if it will cause you a problem. I would’ve put it on I think.
@@bobbygfl the plastic carbs do not use the washer, the metal ones do. This is why they send the seal. They should mention that so it does not get confusing. If you ad the washer on a plastic bowl it throws the float adjustment way off...
This is helpful. I was just about the same question about the washer on the seat. I read on bbc boards that you do not use that washer on the 60 degree loop carbs but there was no specification around plastic vs metal carbs
Great video. On that little bearing that leaks. You used the 610 to close it out. Experiencing that on 4 of 6 right now. Anything additional you can share on what you did there?
@@bobbygfl in the float bowl behind the brass plug the is a little brass jet/orifice. I finally figured out 57D is the original factory size for my 1994 150hp looper/v6. The 70D plugs are for the 175hp.
Did you pull and clean out the slow speed needle valve that is on the manifold? I don’t know if that’s just an air screw or if it gets fuel and needs to be cleaned? Or is that zigzag channel with the plate over it the slow fuel path? Thanks!
@@bobbygfl It's my father's boat which has been sitting for 2 or 3 years. Ran great the last time we used it. I've heard if a cylinder or two have clogged jets and isn't getting oil and fuel, the engine will still run and can mask the lean cylinder. Of course if that goes on too long it'll burn it up. I've been spraying carb cleaner into the little brass air intake orifice next to the throttle intake and spraying it on that high flow jet behind the carb bowl drain bolt. I'll try to get a small enough screw driver that can remove one of the high flow jets to sample if they could be clogged. Besides that would it be worth throwing some seafoam in the fuel just to make sure?
@@bobbygflhey so we took the boat out for its first maiden voyage in a long time. Ran pretty well but would die at idle. It would idle pretty well in the driveway with muffs though. When we were out on the river I ran some Seafoam through the engine. Today when running it in the driveway it was pretty good at idle but would backfire a little. Shut it off drained the carbs and I noticed not much fuel came out of the top passenger side carb. I tried priming fuel through that drain and no fuel would come out! Is the float needle valve stuck closed? I also had the engine tilted forward when doing this but the others seem to let fuel bleed through. Could the Seafoam have caused the needle to stick shut?
I don’t have a manual. I would love to get one. Where did you get it. The floats are just set perfectly flat. Not sure what measurement that translates to. And the jets are factory. Came with the motor. I’m not sure what the actual size is.
What do you mean pours fuel out around the main jet? Is it a high-speed jet or is it the one on the float? And how do you see it? Maybe we’re not talking about the same thing
@@bobbygfl hell yea man, thank you. I’m probably going to do it once the fishing season ends. Might try sanding them down a bit and just replacing the gaskets and doing a full clean
@@hookzsettv4842 in my experience I’d only replace them. They are about $28 each and because there’s a groove where the gasket goes it’s impossible to sand them down and have them seal.
Be careful with overtighting those plastic carbs. They tend to warp and start dropping fuel out of bowls. That’s a dead sentence. The service Manual specifies the torque needed and it’s incredible easy to go above it.
No. You do have to set the idle screws. The way I set mine was tighten them all the way down be careful not to tighten them too tired just till they’re bottomed out. Then mine are backed off 5 1/2 turns each. Different motors are different turns by about half a turn. I backed all of mine out for turns and the motor didn’t run right I did five turns and the motor didn’t run right I did another half a turn in the motor idled perfectly. It’s really just trial and error. As far as adjusting the carbs for vacuum there is actually a process for that where are you put a vacuum gauge on each carb however the tolerance is enough where it doesn’t matter. The motor will suck fuel evenly if everything is installed correctly and nothing is blocking.
The threads are so thick that it’s almost impossible to strip them. I’m not sure what the torque settings are, but I’ve had them loosen up in the past. This tightnesd that you saw has been flawless, and running strong. Thank you for the compliment! Also, that screwdriver is pretty small. I think it looks like I was talking them down more than I actually was.
You must have been the guy who tightened the oil pan bolt on my car before I bought it! It's just little brass screws in a plastic carb body. The guys at work use pipe wrenches on little 3/4 gate valves and crank them till they start leaking. Enough with all this over the top tourqing.
I hate those shitty plastic carburetors. I wish OMC made them out of aluminum. On our engine the bowl on 3 of them warped. It caused them to leak massive amounts of fuel. We had to sand them flat when we rebuilt the carburetors.
On plastic carbs turn screws backwards until u hear or feel a click then screw forward so it's aligned. Great video!!
Thanks!
Awesome video, super helpful for my 115.
I'll say a prayer for whoever has to loosen those screws next time lol
Lol. Right!
Fixed my carbs today thanks to the help of your videos. Much appreciated for taking the time to video.
That’s awesome. Thanks!
@@bobbygfl and yesterday I installed a new powerpack, new coils, plugs, wires, and thermostats....engine is happy now. I bought an older Grady White and im doing preventive maintenance stuff. I've watched your videos a bunch before diving in. Again, thanks for taking the time to be very detailed in your videos for us TH-cam mechanics in the world.
Haven’t watched this yet but have already clicked like as a thanks for taking the trouble to film it.
Always interesting films from you, thanks.
Thank you!!
Excellent! Had 1 carb leaking on a 1991 johnson fast strike! Work like a charm!
Awesome!
I have a 2000 Johnson 90hp
Thanks for taking the time to do this video. Very helpful.👍
Thank you!
Thanks for making these videos!! I use your videos as a guide to work on my Evinrude!
Thank you! I appreciate your comment
If I’m not mistaken, the OMC service manual specifies that the carb float be leveled, as exhibited in the video, which closes the needle valve to stop fuel flow.….but also specifies a dimension for float drop which regulates the fuel flow into the bowl to maintain proper fuel level.
I would love to get my hands on that manual!
Manual states: "Adjust the float drop with carburetor body in normal position. The drop dimension to bottom of float should be between 11/16 - 1-1/8 in."
Manual also states float should be level gasket surface (which you did), but +/- 1/32 in.
I can send pic or copy of applicable assembly procedure if you like. If so, please instruct how/where to send.
Hi
I have a 1993 and have this operation many times. Great job your step by step instructions. I would love to know if anyone has found a metal bowl from another carb that would work on the plastic carburetor body?
Many Thanks
I’ve done some research on that and I’ve never seen a Metal bowl which works with these carburetors.
Bobby, I would greatly appreciate your help. I did the full carburetor rebuild even did the bowls. Made sure all my floats were exactly level. Even turned the adjustment screw 5.75 tuns out from seated. The engine runs like garbage idling way too low. Before the carbs, I also replaced coils, wires, gap less plugs, the Fuel pump, gas solenoid, starter and starter selonoid , flywheel cover and timing encoder . I was under the impression that you can't screw up the timing because the encoder can only be installed in one positions. Do you have any ideas?
You can screw up timing if the timing advance notches are not in the right place. it’s part of that ratcheting system I believe. I am not an expert on timing, and I was careful not to mess with it. If you suspect timing, I would hire an old Time mechanic or invest some time researching how to change the timing. As far as what else it could be…. Pretty much covered everything that I have covered. Are you sure you’re getting good fuel flow? Bulb should be hard through the entire time of running the motor. I had a problem years ago and it turned out to be the anti-siphon valve on the fuel tank. I replaced that and everything worked perfectly. I also had a brand new bulb and a brand new fuel filter and I replaced all my fuel line lol. But that anti-siphon valve is not something that lasts forever.
@@bobbygfl Thanks for your reply it means a lot to me. I thought my compression was bad so I checked it is about 110 psi in each cylinder. So I would think this is pretty good. I changed the plugs they were really fowled from all the gas I poured in the gas tank when I was learning how to do the VRO. I must have poured a gallon and a half of oil into the tank. To alleviate gas problems. I am running it off an external gas tank directly to the engine. Same problem exists. I am going to try it with the new spark plugs. The kicker is it is the fastest starting engine I ever seen. That was the original problem that it took so damn long to start.
Did you ever fix your motor issue the same thing is happening to me now
@@johngonzales3004 no, after all that time and money I got a brand new Suzuki
love that you are doing this in your house lol
Lol. My wife loves that too lol
Great video! I rebuild the carbs in my 1998 johnson 150 and I found out the high speed jets was missing.. can you please tell me what size are they?? Thanks
I have no idea. I’m sorry but I don’t have any way of measuring them and I’ve never actually replaced the Jets.
Where you out the 610 epoxy and that bb goes, if that bb comes out will fuel just oour out?
That's what mine is doing and I will be blocking this off with the 610 epoxy if that's the case.
Yes. No bb the fuel will just pour out. But if there is no bb you could push too much 610 into the hole restricting the fuel. Best to just buy a new bowl and 610 it when new.
Great job. Just had my carbs rebuilt and mechanic said I may not need to use the small rectangular parts (pictured on left side of your video at 7:19). Did you not use these either? Thanks.
nope. thanks!
I have a 85 Evinrude 175 hp motor I'll be working on soon..they said fuel comes out over flow. I suspect it's the float or something stuck so it's over flowing. I'm wondering where I can rebuilt kits.
Boatparts.com.
How do you feel about a complete vro delete? Either go vacuum pump or electric. Seem as the johnsons are notorious for fuel system air leaks due to all the plastic parts warping. Have you heard of anyone doing a Johnson 150? Mines a 2004. Mine works fine now but I feel this thing is a ticking time bomb the way it is now. I have small hairline cracks in all my float bowl so winter maintenance is about to begin.
You know I’m not a mechanic and I don’t really know what you mean by a full delete. I replaced the vro pump with a Evinrude non-vro and it works perfectly if that’s what you mean. Check out my Evinrude playlist I have a video that shows the new pump. Hope that helps
Vros get a bad rap because of carb and line issues. Hardly do pumps fail, they do because of the owners lack of maintenance. I have a 92 150 vro still working perfect.
Rebuild 4 of these carbs because of gas leaking in the air box. After rebuild they still leak. Driving me nuts. Any cleu about what is wrong?
See reply on other video
i rebuilt the same carb but I did not have a washer on the part where the needle goes in on the float,
so I went head did not use the washer that came with the kit for the seat that the needle goes in,
is this going to be a problem??
It’s hard to say. If you didn’t have it it’s probably because the last person didn’t put it in lost it who knows it should be there. I don’t know if it will cause you a problem. I would’ve put it on I think.
Some models do not use the washer. My 93 fast strike does not.
@@bobbygfl the plastic carbs do not use the washer, the metal ones do. This is why they send the seal. They should mention that so it does not get confusing. If you ad the washer on a plastic bowl it throws the float adjustment way off...
This is helpful. I was just about the same question about the washer on the seat. I read on bbc boards that you do not use that washer on the 60 degree loop carbs but there was no specification around plastic vs metal carbs
@bobbygfl thanks for fantastic videos. Very helpful!
Great video. On that little bearing that leaks. You used the 610 to close it out. Experiencing that on 4 of 6 right now. Anything additional you can share on what you did there?
Clean it with acetone and sand it so the epoxy has something to grab onto.
Hi. Do you recall the size of the float bowl orifices? I accidentally threw mine away. I have a 150hp looper as well from 1994.
The size of the float bowl orifice. What does that mean? I’m drawing a blank.
@@bobbygfl in the float bowl behind the brass plug the is a little brass jet/orifice. I finally figured out 57D is the original factory size for my 1994 150hp looper/v6. The 70D plugs are for the 175hp.
I'm having running issues that I believe are carb related on a 1999 Johnson 90, can I ask you a couple of questions? Same exact carbs as yours.
Sure!
How do you adjust them and my book says the float has to fall down so much is that true
No, the float should be level as I pictured it and you adjust them by bending the metal
Did you pull and clean out the slow speed needle valve that is on the manifold? I don’t know if that’s just an air screw or if it gets fuel and needs to be cleaned? Or is that zigzag channel with the plate over it the slow fuel path? Thanks!
I did not. I only cleaned the high-speed jet. I shot carburetor cleaner through it on the engine side but didn’t remove it.
I have a 2000 johnson 150 with the 6 carbs will this kit work with it
It should
Thank you I appreciate your help
Is that high speed jet the only jet that can clog from bad fuel and gunk; or is there a pilot/idle jet as well?
Not that I know of. An idle problem would be likely the float, gasket issue or throttle position issue.
@@bobbygfl It's my father's boat which has been sitting for 2 or 3 years. Ran great the last time we used it. I've heard if a cylinder or two have clogged jets and isn't getting oil and fuel, the engine will still run and can mask the lean cylinder. Of course if that goes on too long it'll burn it up.
I've been spraying carb cleaner into the little brass air intake orifice next to the throttle intake and spraying it on that high flow jet behind the carb bowl drain bolt. I'll try to get a small enough screw driver that can remove one of the high flow jets to sample if they could be clogged. Besides that would it be worth throwing some seafoam in the fuel just to make sure?
@@bobbygflhey so we took the boat out for its first maiden voyage in a long time. Ran pretty well but would die at idle. It would idle pretty well in the driveway with muffs though.
When we were out on the river I ran some Seafoam through the engine. Today when running it in the driveway it was pretty good at idle but would backfire a little. Shut it off drained the carbs and I noticed not much fuel came out of the top passenger side carb. I tried priming fuel through that drain and no fuel would come out!
Is the float needle valve stuck closed? I also had the engine tilted forward when doing this but the others seem to let fuel bleed through. Could the Seafoam have caused the needle to stick shut?
Hey Yolo, what size jets did you use?, I have 74d size. Also, I noticed you didnt adjust the height of those floats, the manual calls for 17-28mm
I don’t have a manual. I would love to get one. Where did you get it. The floats are just set perfectly flat. Not sure what measurement that translates to. And the jets are factory. Came with the motor. I’m not sure what the actual size is.
The pictures are pretty shitty, but the manual is actually a pretty good read once you’ve identified what everything is.
Believe the 70.. D series is for the 175 hp motor.
Excuse me, could you repeat how many turns the air intake adjustment should take. I think it is 5.5?
I want to say 4.5. I’m sorry I don’t actually remember.
do you find that the newer bowls are more resistant to warping?
Yes. The original bowls were clearly plastic. The newer ones look like a glass polymer of some sort. And they don’t warp as fast for sure
I have 1997 evinrude 175 ocean pro one carb pisses/pours fuel out around the main jet any ideas what could be causing this?
What do you mean pours fuel out around the main jet? Is it a high-speed jet or is it the one on the float? And how do you see it? Maybe we’re not talking about the same thing
Hey man I got a 98 Ocean Pro 175. I got the warped bowls, where did you get your rebuild kits from I feel more confident now that I saw your video
i got them locally but www.crowleymarine.com has them at the best price around
@@bobbygfl hell yea man, thank you. I’m probably going to do it once the fishing season ends. Might try sanding them down a bit and just replacing the gaskets and doing a full clean
@@hookzsettv4842 in my experience I’d only replace them. They are about $28 each and because there’s a groove where the gasket goes it’s impossible to sand them down and have them seal.
@@bobbygfl yea if I’m doing it might as well replace. Thanks dude
Be careful with overtighting those plastic carbs. They tend to warp and start dropping fuel out of bowls. That’s a dead sentence.
The service Manual specifies the torque needed and it’s incredible easy to go above it.
Thank you!
DO YOU HAVE TO SYNC THE CARBS IN ANY WAY PARTICULAR?
No. You do have to set the idle screws. The way I set mine was tighten them all the way down be careful not to tighten them too tired just till they’re bottomed out. Then mine are backed off 5 1/2 turns each. Different motors are different turns by about half a turn. I backed all of mine out for turns and the motor didn’t run right I did five turns and the motor didn’t run right I did another half a turn in the motor idled perfectly. It’s really just trial and error. As far as adjusting the carbs for vacuum there is actually a process for that where are you put a vacuum gauge on each carb however the tolerance is enough where it doesn’t matter. The motor will suck fuel evenly if everything is installed correctly and nothing is blocking.
Good video, but it really seems to me that you really over torqued some of the screws into the plastic housing. Other than that, a very good video.
The threads are so thick that it’s almost impossible to strip them. I’m not sure what the torque settings are, but I’ve had them loosen up in the past. This tightnesd that you saw has been flawless, and running strong. Thank you for the compliment! Also, that screwdriver is pretty small. I think it looks like I was talking them down more than I actually was.
You must have been the guy who tightened the oil pan bolt on my car before I bought it! It's just little brass screws in a plastic carb body. The guys at work use pipe wrenches on little 3/4 gate valves and crank them till they start leaking. Enough with all this over the top tourqing.
lol. ok point taken! thanks for the comment!
could you rebuilt my carburetor
Sometimes I wish I was a mechanic for a living!
Just a count hair, not much there bud
Thanks! I love those!
I hate those shitty plastic carburetors. I wish OMC made them out of aluminum. On our engine the bowl on 3 of them warped. It caused them to leak massive amounts of fuel. We had to sand them flat when we rebuilt the carburetors.
Yep. Agreed. They seem to last a a few years and need replacing.
Don't go by this clown, go to om fishing, he does it correctly!!!
Sorry you didn’t like it.