Great video I have a 1993 150 Johnson. I am not a mechanic either until I bought my boat . I could not stop laughing as you were describing each part because I have replace everything you touched. I have rebuilt my carburetors almost every year I owned this engine. Glad to know there's someone else that has taken the time to do it themselves Great job!
@@bobbygfl Do you know of anyone that has found a metal carburetor that would work on a 1993 150 Johnson? I just replaced my bowls in the spring and already have warped would love to get rid of the plastic it cannot hold up to ethanol Many Thanks Ken Mazza
I am thinking of painting the bowls with a paint that can with stand ethanol gas What are your thoughts on that and do you know of the best paint to use on the plastic bowls?
Want to say Thank You for your motor content. I learned a tremendous amount about my own motor (93 Johnson 150 FastStrike) watching your videos. Our motors are almost identical. Mine shutdown leaving me stranded on the lake last week and i had zero clue where to even start, i'm a new boat owner and bought a 30 yr old bass boat. I was able to diagnose and fix my motor myself in just a few days with the help of your informative videos. Now i can call the mechanic and tell him i'm not coming next week. Thank you good sir!!! If i could get you to dig into that stator next incase i have that issue in the future 😂🤣🤣
I have an 89 Evinrude 150 and it still runs great. I mix my fuel 50:1 in the tank. I don’t have the VRO oil system in it anymore. Also it’s hilarious how large the v shape is on my engine as compared to yours. Back in the day I guess they just hadn’t thought about aerodynamics so much.
It’s amazing how these old engines - if you just take care of them, they just run and run. I wonder if there was ever a meeting at Evinrude where they said we have a problem, these engines are lasting too long lol.
Super job in explaining components of the this engine - which I have recently acquired. This will help greatly in trouble shooting some fuel issues I am having. Bravo Zulu!!
Thank you so much for sharing. Just bought my first boat w/ a 2000 Johnson 115. Auto Tech by trade and studying boat/engine repair to keep my stuff running. Awesome and detailed video. Love the content. Subscribed! 👍
Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge of the 150 boat motor. I purchased my first boat and your video was so easy to understand. I will continue to follow and share your page. Thanks
Thank you thank you thank you!!! So much valuable info in which you do an outstanding job with delivery of content , direct to the point not over explaining it’s just spot on. Greg said I found your Chanel
you were more helpful and more detail than any other video that I’ve watched, I do have a question the shift sensor you talk about, when you push that button it should contact hence the word switch ,from on off so to speak .my point so if you’re testing with a meter you should have ohms or tone when you press the button when you have your leads on both ends of each wire
Great Video! I'm debating on weather or not to change over from the VRO to the non oiler. A few questions if you don't mind... 1. What ratio did you elect to use when mixing oil and fuel? 2. Which brand oil are you running for premix? 3. Do you have to change the spark plugs more often since you deleted the VRO? Thanks in Advance!! Justin
I mix 50 to 1 religiously and I use quicksilver premium plus two-stroke oil religiously I’ve been using it for many years. I also use 1 ounce of Yamalube per 10 gallons. And no the plugs do not foul at all actually. I never ran this motor for a very long with the the VRO system. I removed it before I even ran the boat for the first time I think so I wouldn’t know. Thanks for the questions. Hope they help.
Awesome breakdown of the motor. I have a 95 fast strike 150 V6 & looks the same. The person I bought it from had it sitting for a while. I took it out & did 3 good runs but when I tried to restart it & give it gas threw my hot foot it would just die. Had to wait about 10 minutes to start up again but noticed the gas prime ball was sucked in. So to me it's starving for gas but all I've done is change out the hand prime ball & changed the fuel/water separator. What else should I check. Also all the carburetors have been redone & engine looks like its been taken care of. Thanks for your time
If you have an anti-siphon valve on the fuel tank that could likely be clogged. I ended up replacing all of my fuel line from the tank to the filter to the bulb to the motor.
I pretty much have the same motor but a 115 same year. Having issues that the boat won’t plane unless you’re holding the key choke in. Bogs down a little on and off. Fuel filter looks good and I’ve been using seafoam to see if it could help with any gunk or build up. Also noticed a possible small leak around the float chamber gasket. Any suggestions or tips that I could look into? I’ve been looking at Crowley marine schematics as well. My next look will possibly be at the fuel pump itself.
Well, I would always start with rebuilding the carbs and replacing the bowls. If you have done that, then I would replace that choke assembly in the middle between the carbs. It’s the thing that activates when you choke it. That part is not that expensive and that actually went out on mine. Good luck.
I have twin 1993 Johnson 150s I just recently purchased two brand new VO pumps. But I’m still thinking about doing the bypass. The starboard motor still seems to smoke a little more. What do you think and I love the video. You have the identical motor.
I am very happy that I bypassed that entire system. I picked up some storage space, don’t need to worry about filling an oil tank, don’t need to worry about any failure, I’ve been mixing 50/1 for about 20 years now with absolutely no lubrication issue. For simplicity, I only put in 12 gallons at a time with my jug of oil. Makes it very easy.
If you premix your fuel, do you have to disconnect the VRO before you run the engine? I just bought my first big engine bass boat….and when I fired it for the first time in 10 years, I’m getting a “no oil” light and alarm at the tach. Any info would be helpful….I have drained the oil and refilled the tank, but I haven’t mixed any fuel yet. When I go to test it, I was going to add enough for 50:1 mix if I ended up with the same alarm.
Yes, if you mix the oil you need to disconnect and put a jumper between two wires to trick the ignition to think that the pump is functioning. I’m sorry I can’t help you with which wires. I did not actually do this. Mechanic did it for me.
The primary fuel filter is an external one mounted on the transom before the fuel even gets to the priming bulb. There is a screen style conical filter behind that assembly you’re talking about I believe.
Everyone is acting wierd ? I got a new Johnson , ive been trying to show everyone my johnson ? They run from me ? I cant even get them to the dock ? Im gonna put it on a trailer and run around and show everyone my johnson ? 😂
Thank you so much for this info, very helpful, I have same motor. One question for you, I found the air/fuel mixture screws to adjust under the carbs,but does this engine have a idle speed screw and if so where would that be? Thanks
The only way I know to adjust the idle is by adjusting to stop on the throttle arm which also could require resetting the timing advancement, which is the two bars on the optical wheel. I’ve never had to mess with the idle, so not much help, but Mechanic did say don’t mess with that lol.
I resent bought a boat that's got the same engine as you . I never work on outboards. I do car engines . I have watch just about everything you done on it. Very good information. I have done the plugs, clean the fuel system put a treatment in gas tank with 100% gasoline. My issue is she dyes at idle . To me it appears ether my low idle jet is plug on one of the carburetors or my idle is set to low🤔 This boat was set up for a year before I got it. I ran it for 4 hrs in the water she runs strong just when in idle or trying to put it in gear she dyes on me . I also think before I go taking carbs apart and rebuild I should run the rest of that tank I plan to increase the idle just a bit it just may solve the problem . If that don't work then I will do the carbs rebuild . I also see the right side is not as easy and I did not get to see you taking of the side bottom colent cover because of the video speed when you was doing that video. Thank you so much for your videos it make me feel more comfortable about tackling any issues on it . To me it looks like a big weed eater engine with a cooling system lol So any advice you can give me or correct me will be appreciated.
Thanks for the kind words and watching the videos!! Could be the floats are not bent perfectly level. If there is not enough fuel in the bowl it’ll stall when dropping rpm. Could also be dirt in the vacuum channels. When at idle the vacuum suction is much less to get the fuel to flow. Any little debris will stall it. I’d start with a complete carb rebuild new bowls and all and go from there. Good luck!!
@@bobbygfl thank you for the advice sir. That's the plan I already go. I also order a repair manual is not like a Chilton 😡 hell I don't even know if you can get one will your specific engine any more 😤 now days they got a few different engines in one manual I HATE THAT it can confused you and do more harm then good.
22:34, the electronic choke does not maximize the fuel to the rails as mentioned. There are two small tubes that come out of the back side of that primer solenoid. One goes to the left bank, one to the right. If you want to know if your primer solenoid is pushing fuel to the engine, simply disconnect the hose where it enters the engine, prime your fuel ball, engage the key switch and look to see if fuel comes out of the hose. To check for a hose restriction, turn the red lever upward. This is the manual way to choke, and see if fuel comes out of the hose.
Great as always! Love your clips. Have you found any films about adjusting the timing on this motor? I think mine is firing a bit early after replacing the spark plugs since the original plus were no available.
I only know what I’ve been told. I haven’t seen a video on it. Evidently you have to remove the spark plug from cylinder one. Rotate the motor until that piston is fully out. And then set the indicator needle and then hook up your light for a reading. I don’t know how it seems very involved. Thanks for the compliment on the video I appreciate it!!
Awesome video! I recently got myself a 1994 150 fast strike model. Rebuilt the carbs, new spark plugs, got it running very well when its out of the water with water hose/muffs. When I have it in the water at the boat ramp, it has a hard time starting/staying running. Eventually I can get it to run, but it only will run just enough speed to get to plane. Immediately, motor shuts off. Wondering why its having such a hard time when the lower unit is submerged, but not when the water hose/muffs are on? If you have an opinion, Id be happy to hear it. Thanks in advance.
The only thing I can think of is the tilt angle. Try running it trimmed up a little bit so the carbs are level. You know what I mean generally the transom causes the motor to lean backwards, which you cannot really replicate on a trailer. If the motor runs fine when it’s trimmed up, then your floats is where I would start. Could be flooding.
Does the float bowl above the VRO pump get pump out by the vsp pump? Replaced lines and vro pump with a non oil vro and carb bowls still not getting enough fuel. Runs fine if pumping the bulb. Ran on separate tank and same problem. Checked vsp diagram and looks ok little stretched but no tears.. stumped 🤔
Hummm. I’d explore adjusting that float above the pump. Also is the bulb new? I had a bad bulb once that restricted flow unless pumping. I’d use a yahama branded bulb. Also is the hose from the bulb to the motor new?
@@bobbygfl yes all lines are new except the one that runs from inside the cowling to the vro pump. I’m going order a Yamaha bulb just to be certain. I’ll double check the float and get back to you
@@bobbygflHey buddy just a update. Finally found the issue I replaced vapor pump assembly and that fixed my fuel issue. Must of be cracked I replaced the diaphragm and it improved then went back fuel starvation. Replaced the whole unit and now it’s running like a top. Thanks
@@bobbygfl my engine has been sitting winterized before upsidedown world so over 3 years. now she won't start no spark on any cylinder. even after new optical sensor an power pack thanks.th-cam.com/users/shortsq3QSN6Z6Szw
I needed this! Hi so any idea why after running perfectly high throttle for 5-10 min I suddenly lose 1/2 throttle? Also the telltale seems to spit air and water the faster I go… I thought I lowered the motor on the transom to next mounting hole, but haven’t tested it on the water yet. I’ve got 1999 ocean pro 115. Looks exactly the same but a v4
Do those little ball bearing BBs on the carb bowls not vent to atmosphere or something.why would they include them in the design if you should just epoxy over it?
@@on1ytheb3st they do not. The way they manufactured them was part machined part injection molded. In order to allow fuel to pass through they drilled in from the side. Then in order to seal the hole they inserted the ball bearing as a plug. It holds up for about a year and then starts leaking. Even with the epoxy, they some will eventually leak. It’s an unfortunate design. I guess it would cost too much or it’s impossible to create that void in the injection mold without drilling it from the side.
@@bobbygfl our 2004 Bombardier still has all of the BBs in place and it’s likely the original carb bowls. Even with the BBs in place can they leak? I guess I’ll use some JB weld this afternoon while I have access to them; I’m replacing the OMS/VRO for a normal fuel pump.
@@on1ytheb3styou can’t go wrong sealing them up. Just wipe with acetone to make sure clean as possible. I’d use a q tip to clean then lightly sand to give the jb weld something to hold on to.
hey bobby i need the part where the gas line from the primer bulb and the oil line from oil tank hooks at the motor ,its a plastic part with #335626 on it . i dont know what its called and cant seem to find it no where online? hope you can help me...tia
Great video. I have a 115 basically same motor minus 2 cylinders everything else seems exactly the same. I was hoping you could give me some information on the vro bypass and also I'm having some spark issues.
Hopefully you can answer my question 2 yrs later lol. My exact motor will die 15 minutes after putting in then won't start for awhile. But when it does finally want to start back up a bunch of dark smoke comes out. Any ideas why it's just shutting off while driving. I'm lost. Appreciate any help
Sounds like flooding. The floats may need to be adjusted so the close the valve when the bowls are full. The stalling and not starting for a while then black smoke once it does all point to too much fuel. I’d start by rebuilding the carbs. I have a video on that in this sane playlist. Hope that helps!
@@bobbygfl rebuilt the carbs already. So would a line be clogged somehow then. I'm taking all the lines off tomorrow and digging in. Thanks man. I appreciate the response
@@concrete2catfishin I think I would turn my attention to the fuel pump. If you still have the the VRO system, they make a replacement fuel pump, eliminating the oiler.
Nice video,, but for clarity, 2:24. These hoses are not coolant lines. They are fuel recirculating lines. There are 6 check values on each bank inside the intake manifolds. With pressure, the excess fuel/oil from the block is sent back to the carbs to be reused. The check valves make sure it only flows one way and are the size of a pencil eraser. You have to take the manifolds of to get at them.
can you explain where the the hoses go? I see a tee from the hose that comes off the air box, where do they go as well any other hoses. I recently picked up a 1992 150 EXEN and the hoses were just laying in the motor compartment. Needless to say it does not run very well...
I can’t really explain it without showing you pictures maybe pause on the video. I can’t say the one side of the hose you’re talking about just sit in the air box. It doesn’t attached to anything.
This is the playlist for everything I have on this motor. I’ve never removed the flywheel, but I have removed the high wheel cover to replace the bendex. It’s in one of my earlier starter replacement videos. Boat and Motor Projects th-cam.com/play/PLsZvjE7Duh8T-ar6WxOB4i3WQSRiP-qdn.html
In my experience, it’s more about the uneven Ness than the actual compression. Once you get below a certain point. Ranging from 125 to 100 seems like it is a problem
Great Video thank you for posting. Would you happen to have the part# or link to the non oiler fuel pump that you swapped out. Definitely want to install on my my 175
I have a '96 150hp v6 Evinrude, all of a sudden the tach quit working. I have 3 question, 1st will the tach not working disable the engine lights? 2nd, will the engine still run safely without the tach working? and 3rd, do you have a link to help troubleshoot my issue? Thanks in advance.
Yes it’ll work. It’s likely the rectifier. I thought for sure I needed to replace my tachometer, but once I replace the rectifier, it started working perfectly. There’s no problem running the motor with the tachometer not working.
That was really good. You missed 1 part n it happens to the one I have a question bout. The lil round sto the left side of fuel pump it has a vacuum line and 2 wires tan and black, what is it and it's purpose?
It’s a vacuum switch that triggers the ignition alarm if it’s closed. Because the oil mixed fuel lubricates the engine as well as provides combustion if there is not enough fuel the motor could seize from insufficient oil. The buzzer would tell you to shut off the engine.
I believe it has to slide up or backwards before you can just separate it. There are molded slots holding the lower cowling together. Search for a schematic of the engine and you’ll be able to see what I’m talking about.
Bobby, I have the same motor, and for some reason, it is having the following issue: it starts right up and idles in gear, but as soon as I give it gas, it stalls. Any idea what could be causing this?
My trim and tilt from controls is male and so is the tilt and trim on the motor ? Now i know this is 2023 and i heard about all the confusion on identity, but im old fashion , i need a female adapter or something ? I really dont wanta cut the factory plugs , my local dealer dont know nothing , he thought they were two wire ? 😂 i need advice on this one ??
You’ll need to cut them in my opinion. If you found a female plug you would have to cut that it, so just use single wire plug terminators and call it a day. Here is a link. www.westmarine.com/ancor-heat-shrink-disconnects-P003882313.html
@@bobbygflwhat a coincidence i found this , i butt shrinked them and heat shrinked over the top of both butt heat shrinks , 1 year later , it sat for the last two and half months outside , tilt & trimm wouldnt work this afternoon , i cut them butt splices out to hot wire test it , and it was locked up for a couple sparking contacts with the wires , finally it kicked in and worked normal , butt shrank it again and went fishing , works fine now .. ..wierd
Dude. WINNING. working on a 91/175. Nowhere in the Seloc manual does it explicitly tell me what the tabs at 8:01 are. Ive been going nuts trying to find it, but its hard to google something you dont know the name of lol. I knew it had to do with timing!
I feel like I did, but I just went through all my videos from that playlist and I don’t see anything. I recall cracking the timing wheel trying to get it off and I had to buy a new one. Fortunately it goes back on exactly the same way because of the keyway and I thought I remembered talking about that on camera. Check out my oldest maintenance videos, maintenance 1 2 and 3 maybe it’s in there. if I didn’t, it’s pretty basic you just remove all the screws that timing wheel and then the linkage that goes over to the throttle assembly once you pull that plastic cover off the bendex just sits in its place. Good luck.
Hot wire leads to it bypassing the solenoid and see if it kicks over. If it does then go to the solenoid or the ignition switch. Try process of elimination.
Don't take the Lord's name in vain. Also those are fuel recirculating hoses, not water recirculation. Also the rail behind the carbs are the balance tubes and starboard one sucks fuel from bottom bearing, port one sucks fuel, as you said , from air silencer. Good video, very informative
@@bobbygfl thank you for the very informative video, you helped me understand what was going on with the balance hoses and silencer box, keep up the good work!
That shitty plastic fuel fitting looks like a simple 1/2 or 3/4 inch hose attachment for the washing machines. Easy and chem to replace with the brass and a nice petrol resistant gasket!
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Great video
I have a 1993 150 Johnson.
I am not a mechanic either until I bought my boat . I could not stop laughing as you were describing each part because I have replace everything you touched. I have rebuilt my carburetors almost every year I owned this engine. Glad to know there's someone else that has taken the time to do it themselves
Great job!
Thank you! Lol I appreciate that. Anything I can do myself I really try first.
@@bobbygfl
Do you know of anyone that has found a metal carburetor that would work on a 1993 150 Johnson?
I just replaced my bowls in the spring and already have warped would love to get rid of the plastic it cannot hold up to ethanol
Many Thanks
Ken Mazza
I am thinking of painting the bowls with a paint that can with stand ethanol gas
What are your thoughts on that and do you know of the best paint to use on the plastic bowls?
Want to say Thank You for your motor content. I learned a tremendous amount about my own motor (93 Johnson 150 FastStrike) watching your videos. Our motors are almost identical. Mine shutdown leaving me stranded on the lake last week and i had zero clue where to even start, i'm a new boat owner and bought a 30 yr old bass boat. I was able to diagnose and fix my motor myself in just a few days with the help of your informative videos. Now i can call the mechanic and tell him i'm not coming next week. Thank you good sir!!!
If i could get you to dig into that stator next incase i have that issue in the future 😂🤣🤣
Thank you so much! Comments like this make my day!
I have an 89 Evinrude 150 and it still runs great. I mix my fuel 50:1 in the tank. I don’t have the VRO oil system in it anymore. Also it’s hilarious how large the v shape is on my engine as compared to yours. Back in the day I guess they just hadn’t thought about aerodynamics so much.
It’s amazing how these old engines - if you just take care of them, they just run and run. I wonder if there was ever a meeting at Evinrude where they said we have a problem, these engines are lasting too long lol.
Much appriciated. Got mine running today after a little guidance from this video
Great to hear!
Super job in explaining components of the this engine - which I have recently acquired. This will help greatly in trouble shooting some fuel issues I am having. Bravo Zulu!!
thank you! please check my playlist on the motor. lots of videos.
Brilliant. I’ve got a 2002 Johnson 150. Same design. I’ve now got much better insight into how it functions.
Thanks!
Thank you so much for sharing. Just bought my first boat w/ a 2000 Johnson 115. Auto Tech by trade and studying boat/engine repair to keep my stuff running. Awesome and detailed video. Love the content. Subscribed! 👍
Thank you!
Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge of the 150 boat motor. I purchased my first boat and your video was so easy to understand. I will continue to follow and share your page. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you thank you thank you!!! So much valuable info in which you do an outstanding job with delivery of content , direct to the point not over explaining it’s just spot on. Greg said I found your Chanel
Thank you!!
wonderful run through, thank you for posting!!!! I see the same components on my 96, 115hp - less 2 cylinders...
Thanks for watching!
Thanks you’re the man I have 93 have some electric issues smoking out of the top of motor had to unhooked battery cables
Wow, that’s crazy
Meus parabéns! Tenho um motor desse aqui no Brasil e adoro esse motor, agora com o seu video aprendi bastante sobre ele! Abraços meu amigo do Brasil !
That’s awesome! Thank you!
you were more helpful and more detail than any other video that I’ve watched, I do have a question the shift sensor you talk about, when you push that button it should contact hence the word switch ,from on off so to speak .my point so if you’re testing with a meter you should have ohms or tone when you press the button when you have your leads on both ends of each wire
Yes and yes. Totally agree. It’s a ground interrupt so ohms would be the best way to test for sure. And thanks!! Many years with motor.
Great Video! I'm debating on weather or not to change over from the VRO to the non oiler. A few questions if you don't mind...
1. What ratio did you elect to use when mixing oil and fuel?
2. Which brand oil are you running for premix?
3. Do you have to change the spark plugs more often since you deleted the VRO?
Thanks in Advance!!
Justin
I mix 50 to 1 religiously and I use quicksilver premium plus two-stroke oil religiously I’ve been using it for many years. I also use 1 ounce of Yamalube per 10 gallons. And no the plugs do not foul at all actually. I never ran this motor for a very long with the the VRO system. I removed it before I even ran the boat for the first time I think so I wouldn’t know. Thanks for the questions. Hope they help.
Can you please send a link for this non oiler pump? Or where did you get it?
I'm glad I come across your video I have a 150johnson
Thanks!
Awesome walk through and explanation of components
Thank you!!
Thanks for sharing. I needed that. I feel a little better
Thanks!
Awesome breakdown of the motor. I have a 95 fast strike 150 V6 & looks the same. The person I bought it from had it sitting for a while. I took it out & did 3 good runs but when I tried to restart it & give it gas threw my hot foot it would just die. Had to wait about 10 minutes to start up again but noticed the gas prime ball was sucked in. So to me it's starving for gas but all I've done is change out the hand prime ball & changed the fuel/water separator. What else should I check. Also all the carburetors have been redone & engine looks like its been taken care of. Thanks for your time
If you have an anti-siphon valve on the fuel tank that could likely be clogged. I ended up replacing all of my fuel line from the tank to the filter to the bulb to the motor.
Ok I'll give that a try. Thanks again
I pretty much have the same motor but a 115 same year. Having issues that the boat won’t plane unless you’re holding the key choke in. Bogs down a little on and off. Fuel filter looks good and I’ve been using seafoam to see if it could help with any gunk or build up. Also noticed a possible small leak around the float chamber gasket. Any suggestions or tips that I could look into? I’ve been looking at Crowley marine schematics as well. My next look will possibly be at the fuel pump itself.
Well, I would always start with rebuilding the carbs and replacing the bowls. If you have done that, then I would replace that choke assembly in the middle between the carbs. It’s the thing that activates when you choke it. That part is not that expensive and that actually went out on mine. Good luck.
@@bobbygfl thank you for your help!
I have twin 1993 Johnson 150s I just recently purchased two brand new VO pumps. But I’m still thinking about doing the bypass. The starboard motor still seems to smoke a little more. What do you think and I love the video. You have the identical motor.
I am very happy that I bypassed that entire system. I picked up some storage space, don’t need to worry about filling an oil tank, don’t need to worry about any failure, I’ve been mixing 50/1 for about 20 years now with absolutely no lubrication issue. For simplicity, I only put in 12 gallons at a time with my jug of oil. Makes it very easy.
If you premix your fuel, do you have to disconnect the VRO before you run the engine?
I just bought my first big engine bass boat….and when I fired it for the first time in 10 years, I’m getting a “no oil” light and alarm at the tach. Any info would be helpful….I have drained the oil and refilled the tank, but I haven’t mixed any fuel yet. When I go to test it, I was going to add enough for 50:1 mix if I ended up with the same alarm.
Yes, if you mix the oil you need to disconnect and put a jumper between two wires to trick the ignition to think that the pump is functioning. I’m sorry I can’t help you with which wires. I did not actually do this. Mechanic did it for me.
awesome video, my question is , is the fuel filter behind that white plastic looking piece in the video time of 22'58? tia
The primary fuel filter is an external one mounted on the transom before the fuel even gets to the priming bulb. There is a screen style conical filter behind that assembly you’re talking about I believe.
Thanks my boat runs on idol but when i give it gas it dies. Like its starving for gas.
Does the bulb collapse or does it run if you squeeze the bulb?
I changed the fuel line it was the problem. Thanks
Great!
I wish I saw this video earlier. Awesome video.
Glad you liked it!
Everyone is acting wierd ? I got a new Johnson , ive been trying to show everyone my johnson ? They run from me ? I cant even get them to the dock ? Im gonna put it on a trailer and run around and show everyone my johnson ? 😂
Lol. Don’t have that problem with evinrudes
Maybe you should have told them the size of your Johnson. I have twin 150s.😂
This video is a gem
Thank you!
Thank you so much for this info, very helpful, I have same motor. One question for you, I found the air/fuel mixture screws to adjust under the carbs,but does this engine have a idle speed screw and if so where would that be? Thanks
The only way I know to adjust the idle is by adjusting to stop on the throttle arm which also could require resetting the timing advancement, which is the two bars on the optical wheel. I’ve never had to mess with the idle, so not much help, but Mechanic did say don’t mess with that lol.
I resent bought a boat that's got the same engine as you . I never work on outboards. I do car engines . I have watch just about everything you done on it. Very good information. I have done the plugs, clean the fuel system put a treatment in gas tank with 100% gasoline. My issue is she dyes at idle . To me it appears ether my low idle jet is plug on one of the carburetors or my idle is set to low🤔
This boat was set up for a year before I got it. I ran it for 4 hrs in the water she runs strong just when in idle or trying to put it in gear she dyes on me . I also think before I go taking carbs apart and rebuild I should run the rest of that tank I plan to increase the idle just a bit it just may solve the problem . If that don't work then I will do the carbs rebuild . I also see the right side is not as easy and I did not get to see you taking of the side bottom colent cover because of the video speed when you was doing that video. Thank you so much for your videos it make me feel more comfortable about tackling any issues on it . To me it looks like a big weed eater engine with a cooling system lol So any advice you can give me or correct me will be appreciated.
Thanks for the kind words and watching the videos!! Could be the floats are not bent perfectly level. If there is not enough fuel in the bowl it’ll stall when dropping rpm. Could also be dirt in the vacuum channels. When at idle the vacuum suction is much less to get the fuel to flow. Any little debris will stall it. I’d start with a complete carb rebuild new bowls and all and go from there. Good luck!!
@@bobbygfl thank you for the advice sir. That's the plan I already go. I also order a repair manual is not like a Chilton 😡 hell I don't even know if you can get one will your specific engine any more 😤 now days they got a few different engines in one manual I HATE THAT it can confused you and do more harm then good.
Agreed!! Good luck! If you actually find a manual, please let me know
22:34, the electronic choke does not maximize the fuel to the rails as mentioned. There are two small tubes that come out of the back side of that primer solenoid. One goes to the left bank, one to the right. If you want to know if your primer solenoid is pushing fuel to the engine, simply disconnect the hose where it enters the engine, prime your fuel ball, engage the key switch and look to see if fuel comes out of the hose. To check for a hose restriction, turn the red lever upward. This is the manual way to choke, and see if fuel comes out of the hose.
thank you, i did not know this.
Correct. It's not a "choke" at all. It's a fuel primer.
Great as always! Love your clips. Have you found any films about adjusting the timing on this motor? I think mine is firing a bit early after replacing the spark plugs since the original plus were no available.
I only know what I’ve been told. I haven’t seen a video on it. Evidently you have to remove the spark plug from cylinder one. Rotate the motor until that piston is fully out. And then set the indicator needle and then hook up your light for a reading. I don’t know how it seems very involved. Thanks for the compliment on the video I appreciate it!!
Awesome video! I recently got myself a 1994 150 fast strike model. Rebuilt the carbs, new spark plugs, got it running very well when its out of the water with water hose/muffs. When I have it in the water at the boat ramp, it has a hard time starting/staying running. Eventually I can get it to run, but it only will run just enough speed to get to plane. Immediately, motor shuts off. Wondering why its having such a hard time when the lower unit is submerged, but not when the water hose/muffs are on? If you have an opinion, Id be happy to hear it. Thanks in advance.
The only thing I can think of is the tilt angle. Try running it trimmed up a little bit so the carbs are level. You know what I mean generally the transom causes the motor to lean backwards, which you cannot really replicate on a trailer. If the motor runs fine when it’s trimmed up, then your floats is where I would start. Could be flooding.
@@bobbygfl I’ll give it a go and get back with you, I have a new priming bulb showing up tomorrow that I’m also going to try.
Awesome, thanks. Going to watch the carb videos now.
thank you!
Does the float bowl above the VRO pump get pump out by the vsp pump? Replaced lines and vro pump with a non oil vro and carb bowls still not getting enough fuel. Runs fine if pumping the bulb. Ran on separate tank and same problem. Checked vsp diagram and looks ok little stretched but no tears.. stumped 🤔
Hummm. I’d explore adjusting that float above the pump. Also is the bulb new? I had a bad bulb once that restricted flow unless pumping. I’d use a yahama branded bulb. Also is the hose from the bulb to the motor new?
@@bobbygfl yes all lines are new except the one that runs from inside the cowling to the vro pump. I’m going order a Yamaha bulb just to be certain. I’ll double check the float and get back to you
@@bobbygflHey buddy just a update. Finally found the issue I replaced vapor pump assembly and that fixed my fuel issue. Must of be cracked I replaced the diaphragm and it improved then went back fuel starvation. Replaced the whole unit and now it’s running like a top. Thanks
excellent video I have a 04 175hp do you have a test procedure for the voltage rectifier?
I don’t. My only fix is to replace it. If you tack is jumping around it’s likely going bad.
@@bobbygfl my engine has been sitting winterized before upsidedown world so over 3 years. now she won't start no spark on any cylinder. even after new optical sensor an power pack thanks.th-cam.com/users/shortsq3QSN6Z6Szw
@@bobbygfl I replaced power pack an optical eye still not getting spark an she won't start. th-cam.com/users/shortsq3QSN6Z6Szw
I needed this! Hi so any idea why after running perfectly high throttle for 5-10 min I suddenly lose 1/2 throttle? Also the telltale seems to spit air and water the faster I go… I thought I lowered the motor on the transom to next mounting hole, but haven’t tested it on the water yet. I’ve got 1999 ocean pro 115. Looks exactly the same but a v4
Water in fuel ? Some kind of fuel problem ? Maybe the primer bulb or quick connect ..just guessing , by what mine do and what I've seen with them .
Carbs I bet
Do you have a part # for that Non-oiler fuel pump? Or is that just your factory VRO/OMS pump converted to not draw oil?
I’ll need to look. Please check out my other videos in this playlist, I thought I included the part number in one of the videos.
Do those little ball bearing BBs on the carb bowls not vent to atmosphere or something.why would they include them in the design if you should just epoxy over it?
@@on1ytheb3st they do not. The way they manufactured them was part machined part injection molded. In order to allow fuel to pass through they drilled in from the side. Then in order to seal the hole they inserted the ball bearing as a plug. It holds up for about a year and then starts leaking. Even with the epoxy, they some will eventually leak. It’s an unfortunate design. I guess it would cost too much or it’s impossible to create that void in the injection mold without drilling it from the side.
@@bobbygfl our 2004 Bombardier still has all of the BBs in place and it’s likely the original carb bowls. Even with the BBs in place can they leak? I guess I’ll use some JB weld this afternoon while I have access to them; I’m replacing the OMS/VRO for a normal fuel pump.
@@on1ytheb3styou can’t go wrong sealing them up. Just wipe with acetone to make sure clean as possible. I’d use a q tip to clean then lightly sand to give the jb weld something to hold on to.
hey bobby i need the part where the gas line from the primer bulb and the oil line from oil tank hooks at the motor ,its a plastic part with #335626 on it . i dont know what its called and cant seem to find it no where online? hope you can help me...tia
Can you tell me what time the part is in this video?
Thanks bobby , i found it on ebay and will order it 👍
Great video. I have a 115 basically same motor minus 2 cylinders everything else seems exactly the same. I was hoping you could give me some information on the vro bypass and also I'm having some spark issues.
I’m sorry I had a mechanic pull the VRO pump, plug the hose and cut the correct wires to eliminate the buzzer.
Hopefully you can answer my question 2 yrs later lol. My exact motor will die 15 minutes after putting in then won't start for awhile. But when it does finally want to start back up a bunch of dark smoke comes out. Any ideas why it's just shutting off while driving. I'm lost. Appreciate any help
Sounds like flooding. The floats may need to be adjusted so the close the valve when the bowls are full. The stalling and not starting for a while then black smoke once it does all point to too much fuel. I’d start by rebuilding the carbs. I have a video on that in this sane playlist. Hope that helps!
@@bobbygfl rebuilt the carbs already. So would a line be clogged somehow then. I'm taking all the lines off tomorrow and digging in. Thanks man. I appreciate the response
@@concrete2catfishin I think I would turn my attention to the fuel pump. If you still have the the VRO system, they make a replacement fuel pump, eliminating the oiler.
Nice video,, but for clarity, 2:24. These hoses are not coolant lines. They are fuel recirculating lines. There are 6 check values on each bank inside the intake manifolds. With pressure, the excess fuel/oil from the block is sent back to the carbs to be reused. The check valves make sure it only flows one way and are the size of a pencil eraser. You have to take the manifolds of to get at them.
thank you again! appreciate the info. always learning..Please consider subscribing :)
Will this motor run from just a jump start? Or does it need continuous battery supply to stay running?
It’ll run if the battery is disconnected I think. Never tried but nothing is run off the battery after starting.
can you explain where the the hoses go? I see a tee from the hose that comes off the air box, where do they go as well any other hoses. I recently picked up a 1992 150 EXEN and the hoses were just laying in the motor compartment. Needless to say it does not run very well...
I can’t really explain it without showing you pictures maybe pause on the video. I can’t say the one side of the hose you’re talking about just sit in the air box. It doesn’t attached to anything.
You said you have a video on removing the flywheel I’m having trouble finding, is that still posted?
This is the playlist for everything I have on this motor. I’ve never removed the flywheel, but I have removed the high wheel cover to replace the bendex. It’s in one of my earlier starter replacement videos. Boat and Motor Projects
th-cam.com/play/PLsZvjE7Duh8T-ar6WxOB4i3WQSRiP-qdn.html
That was a great video.
Thanks so much for doing this, explained alot.
Thank you!
1995 evinrude intruder compression from top to bottom right to left. 125/120 120/120 110/100. How does that sound for a cold compression test?
In my experience, it’s more about the uneven Ness than the actual compression. Once you get below a certain point. Ranging from 125 to 100 seems like it is a problem
Thank you, your video helped tremendously.
Thanks
Great Video thank you for posting. Would you happen to have the part# or link to the non oiler fuel pump that you swapped out. Definitely want to install on my my 175
this is the link to the part. thanks for the comment!www.crowleymarine.com/parts/16718.cfm
I have a '96 150hp v6 Evinrude, all of a sudden the tach quit working. I have 3 question, 1st will the tach not working disable the engine lights? 2nd, will the engine still run safely without the tach working? and 3rd, do you have a link to help troubleshoot my issue? Thanks in advance.
Yes it’ll work. It’s likely the rectifier. I thought for sure I needed to replace my tachometer, but once I replace the rectifier, it started working perfectly. There’s no problem running the motor with the tachometer not working.
@@bobbygfl, Thank you Sir for your reply. I've been told parts are hard to come by, or very expensive. Are they trying to sell a new motor?
That was really good. You missed 1 part n it happens to the one I have a question bout. The lil round sto the left side of fuel pump it has a vacuum line and 2 wires tan and black, what is it and it's purpose?
It’s a vacuum switch that triggers the ignition alarm if it’s closed. Because the oil mixed fuel lubricates the engine as well as provides combustion if there is not enough fuel the motor could seize from insufficient oil. The buzzer would tell you to shut off the engine.
after removing the top cover, i try to remove the side on a 90 hp evinrude 98 2 stroke . 6 bolts later still just seperate 1/4 in .
any video on that
I believe it has to slide up or backwards before you can just separate it. There are molded slots holding the lower cowling together. Search for a schematic of the engine and you’ll be able to see what I’m talking about.
This is awesome! I have a johnson 4 cylinders but this is very similar
Right on thank you!
Bobby,
I have the same motor, and for some reason, it is having the following issue: it starts right up and idles in gear, but as soon as I give it gas, it stalls. Any idea what could be causing this?
Have you rebuilt to carbs? I’d start there.
My trim and tilt from controls is male and so is the tilt and trim on the motor ? Now i know this is 2023 and i heard about all the confusion on identity, but im old fashion , i need a female adapter or something ? I really dont wanta cut the factory plugs , my local dealer dont know nothing , he thought they were two wire ? 😂 i need advice on this one ??
You’ll need to cut them in my opinion. If you found a female plug you would have to cut that it, so just use single wire plug terminators and call it a day. Here is a link. www.westmarine.com/ancor-heat-shrink-disconnects-P003882313.html
@@bobbygflwhat a coincidence i found this , i butt shrinked them and heat shrinked over the top of both butt heat shrinks , 1 year later , it sat for the last two and half months outside , tilt & trimm wouldnt work this afternoon , i cut them butt splices out to hot wire test it , and it was locked up for a couple sparking contacts with the wires , finally it kicked in and worked normal , butt shrank it again and went fishing , works fine now .. ..wierd
Very good overview & explanation
Thank you!
Dude. WINNING. working on a 91/175. Nowhere in the Seloc manual does it explicitly tell me what the tabs at 8:01 are. Ive been going nuts trying to find it, but its hard to google something you dont know the name of lol. I knew it had to do with timing!
Awesome! Thank you very much for the compliment and comment!
Did you do a video on removing and replacing the flywheel cover to replace the bendix
I feel like I did, but I just went through all my videos from that playlist and I don’t see anything. I recall cracking the timing wheel trying to get it off and I had to buy a new one. Fortunately it goes back on exactly the same way because of the keyway and I thought I remembered talking about that on camera. Check out my oldest maintenance videos, maintenance 1 2 and 3 maybe it’s in there. if I didn’t, it’s pretty basic you just remove all the screws that timing wheel and then the linkage that goes over to the throttle assembly once you pull that plastic cover off the bendex just sits in its place. Good luck.
Where did you get the non oiler fuel pump ? Thanks Richard
A local parts shop. The boat house. Cape Coral Fl
hi mate what of gas milage do you get out of v6
cheers lee
The mileage is terrible. I can’t tell you how much I burn but compared to a four stroke it’s awful.
Great video! Can you provide the part number or video of replacing the VRO pump?
Do you have the service manual to download?
I do not have the manual. Wish I did!
Awesome explanation thank you sir!
Glad it was helpful!
Very informative video I have a 2000 johnson 150 your engine looks like mine
Thank you!
My starter will not engauge like it is in gear no power on solenoid. any suggestion?
Hot wire leads to it bypassing the solenoid and see if it kicks over. If it does then go to the solenoid or the ignition switch. Try process of elimination.
Great job on the explanation
Thank you!
What is that other off-white looking thing under the fuel filter that plugs into the motor
Can you tell me the minutes and seconds that you’re talking about
@@bobbygfl that is the vacuum pressure switch
This video rocks!!
Thanks!
Awesome video
Thanks!
Great video. Thanks
Thanks!
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
How similar is this engine to an 97 evinrude 115 intruder?
Same set up
Do u know the part number for that fuel pump
I’m sorry I do not let me look through my paperwork, and if I can find it, I will reply again
Thank you
Outstanding presentation. Own same.
Thank you!
Thank you
You're welcome
Hello my friend, I’m Ricardo from Brazil, can you help me? I need to eletrical diagram to evinrude 150hp do you have? Thanks mate
I do not. Try Crowley marine. .com
Don't take the Lord's name in vain. Also those are fuel recirculating hoses, not water recirculation. Also the rail behind the carbs are the balance tubes and starboard one sucks fuel from bottom bearing, port one sucks fuel, as you said , from air silencer. Good video, very informative
Thanks!
@@bobbygfl thank you for the very informative video, you helped me understand what was going on with the balance hoses and silencer box, keep up the good work!
Thank you, I appreciate that! It’s great motor!
That shitty plastic fuel fitting looks like a simple 1/2 or 3/4 inch hose attachment for the washing machines. Easy and chem to replace with the brass and a nice petrol resistant gasket!
Agreed lol. Such a weird little part.
You say you’re not a mechanic. I think you’re getting pretty close to being one!
Lol. Thanks!
I was messing with my high speed/ low speed adjustment and don't remember where it was set at... does that affect my timing?
I think it does. I’m not sure though
The you
Thanks