Thanks for your videos. Just bought a 1978 Johnson 115hp to replace a Force 125hp. The Johnson will be my winter project. My wife asked how I know what to do - the answer is your video's and automotive my knowledge. Thanks again.
Hi Stu, I started to tear down my Evinrude fuel pump with a view to replacing all the gaskets and valves, but my local dealer told me the reco kits were weeks away from arriving in Australia. They also quoted a whole new fuel pump assembly which they were able to order in a couple of days for not that much more money. It also includes the cover, the tiny springs, and caps that aren't included in the kit. So, I took the easy option and got the whole pump which helped me get back onto the water asap. Keep the videos coming!
Great video again, something that might help that was shown to me years ago was during fuel pump reassembly use the two long fuel pump mounting bolts as guides through there normal holes to assist in lining everything up. Once the other machine screws are installed take the mounting screws out. Good that you explained what the hole in the back of the fuel pump is there for.
Thank you, thank you ! I’ve been having problems with my first boat for a year now. A few people looked at it but nothing resolved. I changed 3 fuel pumps. Now I’m sure the pump is good after finding some faults (pinhole in diaphragm, sticky spring) Next is complete cleaning of the carb. Thanks to your video I was able to start and idle no problem. My biggest problem is on the water I can’t go full throttle, only half way. If I push the throttle it stalls. Hopefully the carb cleaning solves this issue. Thanks again. :)
torbjörn petersson I brought it to another mechanic and he cleaned the carb. I changed fuel tank and put in new fuel. New spark plugs. It still has the same issue. Dropped it off today again, he’ll double check the electrical
Jim Banks, I put in new plugs, meassured compression, checked sparks, ignition timing att idle and low speed is ok (can not test att high rpm since apx 2000 rpm is the limit. The pump does pump fuel at idle and low speed, disconnected sensor for overheating - no change. Did fiddle with linkage and tuning the carborettor. Nothing works...Im into changing the pump to eliminate malfunction in that one, replace tha coil, the pump and the CDI-package.
The Nylon Ties that hold the fuel lines onto the fuel pump are made specifically for fuel lines, if you look at them they are made differently than regular Cable Ties, when you tighten them onto the hose, they contact the hose all the way around, I buy mine at a Anchor Marine in East Missoula, Montana, USA, it is used on Johnson and Evinrude Outboards, of which I own one of each. I am an Avid Fan of your channel, keep up the great job.
Mate - I can't thank you enough for making these videos. I'm a first time boat renovator and I've just picked up an old 82 35hp enivrude. This series has already given me the confidence to get in and give it a good cleanout. Slow and steady - and it looks like I've got a few service kits to order! Thanks again!
Excellent repair by a man who obviously knows what he is doing. VeryRare, since many DIY videos are made by fools, especially marine/car-truck/firearms videos! I have also built (in the triple & quadtriple digits) various engines & components, however, I just bought a new fuel pump for 1977 Evinrude/Johnson on Amazon for $17.29. probably Chinese, but Chinese parts quality have improved over the last few years. Again, this video rebuild explanation is of excellent quality.
very good video!!!! it's got to where if I see you on dangar I automatically stop and watch the video. I have a 50 hp. evinrude, I drained the gas tank, 10 gals. , all the lines, everything, didn't think about fuel pump, so took it apart cleaned the screen, and wallaa, running better, after 4 yrs. sitting there. thank buddy, ur the best!!!!
Stu, you came through for me again! I have a similar John/Rude (J25TESOM) and this is a breakdown I've been looking to do. Thanks in advance! Best marine engine channel on the interwebs!!!
Another VERY helpful video. So far I have used your videos to help me rebuild my water pump, carburetor and today, the fuel pump. Great Job! Thanks Again.
THANK YOU SO MUCH for an excellent info-packed instruction on the fuel pump rebuild. Did it yesterday and just came back from a test ride... never ran better!!!! Thanks again!
Your video is the most clear and concise of any to do w outboard motors of any kind by anyone. BRAVO! Perfect camera image and sound. You are both knowledgeable and easy to follow along with. Great job. I look forward to your next one. Thanx for the professionalism. It's rare these days.
Excellent and informative video. I have this engine and am fixing it as I go. It’s awesome that you have this resource available. Saves 100’s of dollars
Another great video Stu! I just got a late 90's Tohatsu 25hp that is hard to find a ton of detail on. I've learned so much valuable information from your wonderfully delivered tutorials. Keep em coming. Thanks buddy!
Thanks Matt. I'll try to grab an old Tohatsu one day to do the same series of video on, particularly as all the smaller Mercury motors are made by Tohatsu too.
Hi Stu, Been busy still working and remodeling our master bathroom which is coming along good. My last day on my temp job assignment working on aircraft is April 24th so will start up more videos then. I did at least hook up the new steering cable on the Starcraft this week and it works great. I just need to clean out the tilt tube and put all back together and make a video to ad to my collection. Oh I'll send a picture to you this week as well with my new Danger shirt. Good ad on the end of the fuel pump video to test for leaks on rebuilds. also a good idea to pull the cover before going to the water as well.
Great video Stu. I had a problem getting a tight connection with the small fuel line to the fuel pump. It kept leaking fuel after I rebuilt pump and put a new ziptie on. I used a common ziptie. Mercury makes a rounded head ziptie (the bottom side of square). It helps make an even seal and it solved my leak, just from being an older stretched line. Couldn't find them cheap online so I went to a local shop and he sells big and small sizes 8 cents a piece. I think his were an aftermarket brand. I know you could also use the metal auto ones too. But being close to other lines and being smaller makes them a better option to me. If you can find some give them a try
Hey Jim. I know the ones you are talking about, I really should grab some. I've never really had any trouble in the past with regular ties if the hose is in good shape, but buying a pack of the correct style wouldn't be a bad thing. We have a rack of different size stainless steel hose clamps, but they do need a bit of space around them and I don't find they work on small hoses like the outlet that well.
Stu, that's probably why the OEMs use those little wire hose clamps. I have a few I got from Picknpay one day- I went through and grabbed a heap from radiator over flow hoses, PCV and other low pressure hose clamps. I paid an extra $5 for about 100 of them, a bargain in dollar terms, damn expensive in terms of my labour and driving time.
I have a fresh rebuild on a 1995 Johnson 225 Venom I'm in the last part of brake in period. Engine runs good at lower RPM, But when I get over 5,000 rpms the engine starves for fuel . I can pump the primer ball back up and engine runs good again until I reach 5,000 rpms. Carbs have been rebuilt, I installed a new fuel/ oil pump. New primer ball, hoses and fuel filters. All connections are tight. And advice is appreciated. Thanks, Basserron.
Great video- the dealer told me that it was difficult to get fuel pump kits since there were too many small parts and springs- which tend to go flying- never to be seen again by human eyes. I get the new pump already assembled.
I'm having a hard time with a 90 hp etec. It was operating last season and I went to start it this year and discovered a disentegrated fuel hose I have a picture of it but cannot tell where it connected to could I send you a picture and see if you could advise me where the other end connects ? I'm so desperate for help
After replacing the VRO twice on my 1988 140hp johnson I installed the pulse type pump about 10 years ago and have not had a problem since. Just have to make sure I bring 2 stroke oil, a measuring cup and my 50-1 mix cheat sheet when I fill it up.
@@fanciscovargas2559 Sorry but I can't remember for sure where I got it. Got it online. Check I-boats, Boats.net, Marine engine.com, Crowley marine or some of the other ones online.
You didn't explain how the engine will act if this fuel pump is having issues, and thus needs a rebuild. How do you test the pump before disassembly? OOPS, you have a diagnostic video called "outboard fuel pumps."
Dude!!! Your videos have helped me so much, I am in the process of bringing a non VRO 1995 Evinrude 88 SPL back to life. It has been setting for nearly 10 years, your channel has been so much help in the journey. Thanks so much and keep it up.
does this mix 2-stroke oil with gasoline? if not, could someone point me to a device that could? i'm looking for a way to automatically mix the oil and gasoline at the proper ratio from two separate containers.
Thank you for this and the carb rebuild video. Your presentation and step by step is very professional you are one of a rare breeds that can teach as well as do the job properly!
I HAVE A 70 HP EVINRUDE JOHNSON 1975 JUST GOT A NEW FUEL PUMP FROM AMAZON I THINK A UNIVERSAL ONE BUT MINE HAS 3 HOSES AND THE RUBER CIRLE PIECE YOU DIDNT USE MY QUESTION IS THE BOLT THAT YOU CAN TIGHTING BY HAND WHERE THE MAIN GAS GOES THROUGH CAN YOU TIGHTING TO MUCH AND DO YOU HAVE TO USE THE LAST GASKET YOU PUT ON I HAVE IT CAUSE IT CAME WITH NEW ONE BUT MY OLD ONE DID NOT HAVE IT ON THERE IM HAVING ISSUES KEEPING MY ENGINE RUNNING NOW
TY Sir, after a few brisk ( above 4500 rpm ) runs, my 115 would limp back to the ramp on what I assumed 2 cyl, push the key and it would regain but only momentarily, leading me to believe fuel issue, took the screen out of fuel pump and it was 1/3 clogged
Thanks for this video! I need to rebuild one kf mine for an 87 johnson 150. I couldnt find one w the red gasket anymore but i found one w a black that says jts for my model, so it is about to ship and your video is going to make it alot more manageable. I attempted to use a cheapo Amazon one until my rebuild kit came, but it cant handle top end. At wot it starts to bogg until i let up
Thank you so much! helped a great deal. I have a question: When do you open the Core Plugs, those little aluminium caps? how do you open them? how do you seal in the new one? What is the purpose of those Core Plugs?
Nicely explained. Would you suggest giving those short fuel lines a quick flush through to get rid of any possible flakes of rubber after being disturbed? I hope you have had a good Easter break .
Hey Ron, for sure, you can never do too much cleaning while something is apart. I always get a bit torn between giving a video a single searchable topic and running through all the things I would do while I was there. I was pleased to see there was no sign of varnish or fuel lining in the pump's mesh. That always gives me a fair bit of confidence they are still fine.
Hi Stu, swedish fan here! Im working on A similar motor (evinrude 30hp -92) and I recently rebuilt the carburator. Im wondering about what dimension the different fuel lines have (carb, primer etc) and How to flush and/Or replace them. Would Love get a tutorial on that. It would also be great if you would make a tutorial on How to set the idling speed using the mixture screw and idling screw on the left side of the motor. Having some issues with my sneezing motor! Your videos has helped me alot, keep them coming! Cheers!
Hi Cristoffer, these fuel lines tend to be 6mm inner diameter for smaller outboards and the 8 and 10mm for larger ones. I would be inclined to just replace fuel hoses. This video will give you a few tips on setting the idle (just ignore the vacuum gauge part for a two stroke, the rest is the same) th-cam.com/video/bsHCMJnRY9A/w-d-xo.html. Generally if a motor is sneezing it is because either the carbs are out of sync (if there is more than one) or it is running lean (blocked carburettor jets or a vacuum leak).
Great stuff Stu. Cant believe I gave away a classic mint condition old yammy 15 when all that was wrong was the pump (or so I learnt from your excellent channel). It won't happen again!
Hi Stu,I have a 1999 25hp Johnson,I fitted a new fuel pump,which I am not sure is the correct one. The new one is from China,the part no's seem the same,but the fuel pipe on the outlet on the pump is a bigger dia than the original.The pipe from the engine to the diaphragm is the same.The engine ticks over sweet,but when I accelerate,the engine phut,phuts,and then picks up.I can't get the boat into the water at the moment,so I can't check it under load.I fitted a new inline (clear) fuel filter,which doesn't seem to get much fuel through it. I changed the nipple on the pump for the old one,so that the dia was the same .The reduced size of pipe goes to the primer which is manual with no solenoid.It also goes to the bottom of the bowl. The model number id. is-J25RLEEB. Hope you don't mind me picking your brains, Stan,from Manchester Uk.
great stuff, and thanks for sharing. Love the way you explain everything in detail. I have a 2000 Evinrude 9.9 4-stroke outboard, that I have to keep pumping the fuel bladder to keep the motor running when in high throttle, but sitting still in neutral it can run forever. I had a local shop work on it, and they replaced the original fuel pump that was designed to work with the crankshaft, which has a deeper diaphragm with one that is much shallower, but the problem still exist. Any idea on how to repair the fuel pump? I don't seem to be able to get any replacement parts for it. I appreciate it if you could help.
The flat sheet partnof my diaphragm had a good 1/4inch hole that caused lots of kaboom and engine flooding! Just replace the fuel pump, fuel hoses, and decarb! These engines runs forever
I have been having full throttle issues. The motor runs fine low speed. Give it full throttle and it acts like its starving for fuel. I noticed that the inline filter is not filling up and that there is only a trickle coming from the tank. I looked at the pump diaphragm and it looks ok but has lost its pliability so I suspect it may be bad. I pump up the primer and it fills the filter but then depletes as the motor runs. I cant see fuel in the filter so I have no idea how it is even running.
hello Dangar Marine thanks for all the videos, i have an issue with my 150 evinrude 1983, i think its running too rich and wasting too much gas, but the motr runs good and acelerates perfect, but wasting too much gas, what is the possible issue there?
1st, I’m a new subscriber & want to thank you for your tutoring. I’ve learned more from watching your video’s than I learned cumulatively through my trials over the years, so thank you again! I do have a question on the fuel pump though. If there is fuel in the carbs & you spray starter fluid in them or in cylinders, should the engine at least fire or show signs of firing, provided there is spark and everything else is in order? I ask because my 150 will not fire and I suspect fuel pump is part of problem if not the problem.
Great video Stu! Did you change this pump out for preventive reasons or did it have issues? I'm wondering if I should add this to the list of things to do to my evinrude 48 SPL that has been sitting for many years.
Hey Jack. In this case I am just using this motor as an excuse to film all these common jobs, but I would certainly consider doing this as a general service job every 5-10 years depending on use.
Love all your video's I have a 1987 110 evinrude and after did a carburetor rebuilt the motor keeps dying change all the fuel line..new fuel pump...new fuel primer...but every time your press fuel from primer to the motor it runs until burn all the fuel then motor shuts off...prime fuel back into the motor it starts again until fuel burn out....i did everything everyone say on youtube.....any clue would help. Thanks
I had alot of trouble getting the holes in the gasket and diaphragm to line up because of the presure from the springs on each side. I had to use a feeler gauge on each side to keep the springs from deforming it. Or was I just being to picky ?
All your videos are very informative. I removed the carbs. from a J50PLSTD 2003 outboard and can't figure out where some of the fuel hoses connect to. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 86 85 hp force and it runs for awhile then stalls if you give the bulb a squeeze it will start back sometimes some times it wont .if it cools some it starts back up. I have a glass filter and theirs always got fuel.should I start with rebuilding the fuel pump?? replaced water pump impeller 2 yrs ago.it acts like it runs hard then falls off like you turn the key off. some times you can save it by squeezing the bulb sometimes you cant
Hi mate, great video. I’ve got a Johnson 35q that’s in reasonable condition for its age but it has been sitting idle on my brother’s boat for 3-4yrs. Was going when put in storage. I’d like to give it a birthday and put it on my boat. What steps would you recommend? I’m thinking Fuel pump service, water pump service and new fluids. Am I missing anything? TIA
Thanks for fantastic show! We have Johnson 48 SPL, looks same as engine on this video except little larger.. yesterday I was out with kids and engine studdered a few times then few minutes later stated to smoke a bit and shut down with I think overheat buzzer on. After sitting out in the river for 45 minutes the the engine started back up. Found a bunch of gasoline in the bilge, though can't see any leak from the gas tank. There is a water separating fuel filter in the bilge area but I cant really see any leaking fuel from it. Do these systems pressurize that would cause the fuel filter in bilge to leak? For life of me I can't figure out where fuel came from in bilge except from the fuel/water separator filter. Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks again!
Hey Stu, if you have the time, we are hoping to get a bit of advice from Outboard Yoda. We are just in the early stages of building a Glen-L 10 foot plywood boat. We are hoping that we can pick up a good "vintage" 80's or 90's outboard off Gumtree (or wherever) around 15 to 25 HP. Something, that after a complete overhaul, is reliable, matches the "retro" styling of the boat, has reasonably priced and available parts, and something that we can easily fit forward controls to. Something in the range of $400 - $500 to buy and a couple of hundred to replace all the rubber bits, etc. What would be your first choice? Johnson, Evinrude or Mercury? And besides obvious signs of wear and tear (and without pulling the head off) what should we look out for? And finally how hard is it going to be getting the parts to convert an old tiller steer to forward control? Thanks mate, any advice would be greatly appreciated
Johnson/Evinrude are the same engines, just marketed to different social levels. If you want a 'vintage ' engine, then an early 70's/late 60's engine would be one to go for as they had that 'art deco' swoopy look to them.(it would seem we are going back to that style, have a look at what the latest 'update' is on four strokes, softer/rounder/swoopy shapes for the cowls) You should be able to find one pretty much for free if you're willing to scrap the boat it is on! A full rebuild would be needed.Johnson/Evinrude would be the way to go, you can get all the parts reasonably easily for most of the that era engines.
I agree with Ron that Johnson / Evinrude is probably the way to go due to the availability of parts and information. Just how retro you want to go depends on personal taste and tolerance for reliability. I've been meaning for ages to do a video on converting a tiller steer boat to forward controls. I even have the boat that needs it done. I must get onto that one.
Unless you have access to all the special bits and pieces, avoid the low profile 9.9 and 15hp Evinrude and Johnson. They need all sorts of not common/specialized parts to convert to remote controls. I believe that in the north east of the US, there are more of the parts needed, but I'm in the southwest.. :) RichE
Just bought a '91 Johnson fast strike 150 that the previous owner attempted to remove the VRO; no parts left for me so I needed up buying a manual pump that looks like this one. I am assuming the 2 middle ports are for the full rails for each carb/carb bank? The larger top inlet is for the bulb side (main fuel line)?
Howdy from Sugarland Texas. I have a 90SPL Pre mix. I noticed that I am getting 2-Stroke oil residue all over the inside of engine cover and engine. However the engine runs great and never fouls plugs. What could be the problem ? Is this a sign that its time for a rebuild ? Even though it runs great.
Have a question if you don't mind... I broke off the stem that goes in the bottom of the carburetor bowl. I'm pretty sure it's the return from the fuel pump is this necessary or can I delete it and plug the hole in the bowl? Or is it necessary for keeping a constant pressure in the carburetor?
Thanks for the video Dangar Marine. This helped me tremendously with my fuel pump rebuild. One question tho, When you removed the pump from the engine, the cap was positioned to the right. When you installed it after the rebuild it was positioned to the left. Which side is the proper position?
Thanks for posting these super valuable videos. I've saved most of them to my hard drive to learn how to service my own engine. I have a question, I run an old 76 Evinrude 15hp. I came across an old timer in TN who claims he uses this pump, which I believe to be OEM #438652, Sierra 18-7351, just curious why I don't hear more people talking about it. Here's what he said: "I would consider getting the larger pump #438652, 18-7351. The larger pump is easily rebuildable and pumps much better. It is used on the later 9.9/15 anyway for this reason. The OEM pump has a removable outlet nipple that can be changed for different sizes. I use it instead of the small pump all the time when space allows and that is most of the time. Much better pump." - I wanted to ask you what you thought about that, ever tried it on a 15?
@@DangarMarine not sure if my 76 offers the same two tubes for the oscillating effect you mention but surely a pipe tee would fix it if I only had one tube ?
If my fuel pump on my 15 hp 4 stroke Yam became inoperable when I was on the water can I attach the fuel line from the gas tank directly to the carb and squeeze it ever so often to be able to run home?
First I'd like to say your videos have taught me a lot about outboards, more than my actual class I took on them did! Everytime I have an issue with a motor that is stumping me I come here for clues and answers. Unfortunately I have another issue that has me stumped, I have a 70hp evinrude that will only fire up when you use the prime feature by pushing the key in but it won't stay running once that shot of fuel is gone. The carbs have been cleaned 4 times and it is getting the right amount of fuel pressure, what am I missing?
Try this procedure…when it stops running on startup, reprime the fuel line bulb until hard. Prime with the key again for 10 seconds. Start again. Keep repeating the bulb prime, key prime, start untill she runs. After 3 try’s, open the throttle 25% and repeat ….
Hey stu I have a 50 Evinrud and I got a rebuild kit for the fuel pump and I rebuilt it and put it on my boat and fuel was still spraying out please help
Hi, that little dome @ 7:58, should it push up and down? My plastic "pin" is a tight fit in the hole, so it doesn't push down. Is that right? If not, what does that pin valve do and what would the symptoms be? My motor kept running then almost cutting out, then running, almost like a misfire but it just caught again. I suspected the fuel pump.. Could this be the issue? Thanks
Great video and really not much to them , and I must say just a superb illustration on how to rebuild a pump . Question good buddy , I have a 1996 115 ocean pro and the primer ball is brand but it will not build any kind of pressure , so do you think the fuel pump is shot ? Thank you for your time ? And great channel a new sub here
Thanks mate. If you disconnect the fuel line from the outboard does it build pressure then? If so the fuel must be going somewhere, either in to the crankcase through a torn fuel pump gasket or out through the carburettors due to the needle and seat in the bowl not sealing.
@@DangarMarine I tried another bulb and now it’s priming , and the other is faulty . Who would think a new ball valve would be faulty ? Thanks again for your help and I love your channel . Cheers
Stu , I’ve seen that there are 2 diff sizes of replacement fuel pump for removing vro unit , would my Johnson gt 150 v6 take the larger or smaller one ? And I’m getting a lot of unburnt oil on the inside of the cowl and running down the front of the motor . And ideas on that as well sir?
Hey thanks for the informative videos you share. Purchased an older early 90's evinrude 140 2/cycle outboard and was wondering what your recommended oil to fuel mixture ( ounces of premix oil to each gallon of gas would be) Thanks for any knowledge you would advise! Have a great day sir!!
3 ounces of tcw3 certified oil per gal aprox 50:1 in 87 or 89 octane non ethanol gas super tech tcw3 at Walmart 13.00 per gal or a semi synthetic tcw3 for HD use of motor might run cleaner on semi synthetic oil .
Thanks for all this information on the fuel pump and carb rebuild ! , I'll be doing these jobs on my 89 30hp Johnson , would you recommend installing an inline fuel filter for extra protection ? can the fuel pump handle the added resistance ?? thanks again for all your detailed videos
One of the best repair videos I have ever seen. Complete and accurate information without any extra stuff.
Thanks for your videos. Just bought a 1978 Johnson 115hp to replace a Force 125hp. The Johnson will be my winter project. My wife asked how I know what to do - the answer is your video's and automotive my knowledge. Thanks again.
Hi Stu, I started to tear down my Evinrude fuel pump with a view to replacing all the gaskets and valves, but my local dealer told me the reco kits were weeks away from arriving in Australia. They also quoted a whole new fuel pump assembly which they were able to order in a couple of days for not that much more money. It also includes the cover, the tiny springs, and caps that aren't included in the kit. So, I took the easy option and got the whole pump which helped me get back onto the water asap. Keep the videos coming!
Hey Andrew, replacing the whole pump is often a great way to go. Unfortunately in my case though it doesn't make for a very long video. ;)
Good point!
Great video again, something that might help that was shown to me years ago was during fuel pump reassembly use the two long fuel pump mounting bolts as guides through there normal holes to assist in lining everything up. Once the other machine screws are installed take the mounting screws out. Good that you explained what the hole in the back of the fuel pump is there for.
Hey James, that's a great suggestion, makes a lot of sense. Thanks for mentioning it. :)
Thank you, thank you ! I’ve been having problems with my first boat for a year now. A few people looked at it but nothing resolved. I changed 3 fuel pumps. Now I’m sure the pump is good after finding some faults (pinhole in diaphragm, sticky spring) Next is complete cleaning of the carb. Thanks to your video I was able to start and idle no problem. My biggest problem is on the water I can’t go full throttle, only half way. If I push the throttle it stalls. Hopefully the carb cleaning solves this issue. Thanks again. :)
Jim Banks think I have the same issue, not reving more than half in water and forward gear. Did you manage to solve it at your motor?
torbjörn petersson I brought it to another mechanic and he cleaned the carb. I changed fuel tank and put in new fuel. New spark plugs. It still has the same issue. Dropped it off today again, he’ll double check the electrical
Jim Banks, I put in new plugs, meassured compression, checked sparks, ignition timing att idle and low speed is ok (can not test att high rpm since apx 2000 rpm is the limit. The pump does pump fuel at idle and low speed, disconnected sensor for overheating - no change. Did fiddle with linkage and tuning the carborettor. Nothing works...Im into changing the pump to eliminate malfunction in that one, replace tha coil, the pump and the CDI-package.
torbjörn petersson I’ll keep you posted for the mechanics assessment tomorrow 👍
The Nylon Ties that hold the fuel lines onto the fuel pump are made specifically for fuel lines, if you look at them they are made differently than regular Cable Ties, when you tighten them onto the hose, they contact the hose all the way around, I buy mine at a Anchor Marine in East Missoula, Montana, USA, it is used on Johnson and Evinrude Outboards, of which I own one of each. I am an Avid Fan of your channel, keep up the great job.
Yes, I really should order another bag of the proper ones. Having said that, I've never found regular ones leak so long as they aren't too thick.
Mate - I can't thank you enough for making these videos. I'm a first time boat renovator and I've just picked up an old 82 35hp enivrude. This series has already given me the confidence to get in and give it a good cleanout. Slow and steady - and it looks like I've got a few service kits to order! Thanks again!
You're welcome mate, good luck with the renovation. :)
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Excellent repair by a man who obviously knows what he is doing. VeryRare, since many DIY videos are made by fools, especially marine/car-truck/firearms videos!
I have also built (in the triple & quadtriple digits) various engines & components, however, I just bought a new fuel pump for 1977 Evinrude/Johnson on Amazon for $17.29. probably Chinese, but Chinese parts quality have improved over the last few years. Again, this video rebuild explanation is of excellent quality.
very good video!!!! it's got to where if I see you on dangar I automatically stop and watch the video. I have a 50 hp. evinrude, I drained the gas tank, 10 gals. , all the lines, everything, didn't think about fuel pump, so took it apart cleaned the screen, and wallaa, running better, after 4 yrs. sitting there. thank buddy, ur the best!!!!
Glad to hear it is running well again. :)
Stu, you came through for me again! I have a similar John/Rude (J25TESOM) and this is a breakdown I've been looking to do. Thanks in advance! Best marine engine channel on the interwebs!!!
Another VERY helpful video. So far I have used your videos to help me rebuild my water pump, carburetor and today, the fuel pump. Great Job! Thanks Again.
You're welcome mate. :)
THANK YOU SO MUCH for an excellent info-packed instruction on the fuel pump rebuild. Did it yesterday and just came back from a test ride... never ran better!!!! Thanks again!
You're welcome Jim, glad to hear you boat is running well now. :)
Your video is the most clear and concise of any to do w outboard motors of any kind by anyone. BRAVO! Perfect camera image and sound. You are both knowledgeable and easy to follow along with. Great job. I look forward to your next one. Thanx for the professionalism. It's rare these days.
thanks Stu. I enjoy watching you work and explaining things. I think I pick up good mechanic habits by watching you.
Thanks Donald, glad you enjoyed.
from Argentina. your videos have served me a lot. here the mechanics are a disaster. Thank you very much
The best, educational outboard videos anywhere.. thanks again dangar stu!!
My pleasure!
Thanks bud. Might use this for some preventative maintence on my old Evinrude 👌 love your work!
Excellent and informative video. I have this engine and am fixing it as I go. It’s awesome that you have this resource available. Saves 100’s of dollars
Another great video Stu! I just got a late 90's Tohatsu 25hp that is hard to find a ton of detail on. I've learned so much valuable information from your wonderfully delivered tutorials. Keep em coming. Thanks buddy!
Thanks Matt. I'll try to grab an old Tohatsu one day to do the same series of video on, particularly as all the smaller Mercury motors are made by Tohatsu too.
Dangar Marine Thanks again. That would be wonderful. Looks beautiful in Dangar i hope someday to visit. Much love from Chesapeake Maryland U.S.
Hi Stu, Been busy still working and remodeling our master bathroom which is coming along good. My last day on my temp job assignment working on aircraft is April 24th so will start up more videos then. I did at least hook up the new steering cable on the Starcraft this week and it works great. I just need to clean out the tilt tube and put all back together and make a video to ad to my collection. Oh I'll send a picture to you this week as well with my new Danger shirt. Good ad on the end of the fuel pump video to test for leaks on rebuilds. also a good idea to pull the cover before going to the water as well.
Thanks Tim. Sounds like you've been very busy!
Great video Stu. I had a problem getting a tight connection with the small fuel line to the fuel pump. It kept leaking fuel after I rebuilt pump and put a new ziptie on. I used a common ziptie. Mercury makes a rounded head ziptie (the bottom side of square). It helps make an even seal and it solved my leak, just from being an older stretched line. Couldn't find them cheap online so I went to a local shop and he sells big and small sizes 8 cents a piece. I think his were an aftermarket brand. I know you could also use the metal auto ones too. But being close to other lines and being smaller makes them a better option to me. If you can find some give them a try
Hey Jim. I know the ones you are talking about, I really should grab some. I've never really had any trouble in the past with regular ties if the hose is in good shape, but buying a pack of the correct style wouldn't be a bad thing. We have a rack of different size stainless steel hose clamps, but they do need a bit of space around them and I don't find they work on small hoses like the outlet that well.
Stu, that's probably why the OEMs use those little wire hose clamps. I have a few I got from Picknpay one day- I went through and grabbed a heap from radiator over flow hoses, PCV and other low pressure hose clamps. I paid an extra $5 for about 100 of them, a bargain in dollar terms, damn expensive in terms of my labour and driving time.
I have a fresh rebuild on a 1995 Johnson 225 Venom
I'm in the last part of brake in period. Engine runs good at lower RPM, But when I get over 5,000 rpms the engine starves for fuel .
I can pump the primer ball back up and engine runs good again until I reach 5,000 rpms. Carbs have been rebuilt, I installed a new fuel/ oil pump. New primer ball, hoses and fuel filters. All connections are tight. And advice is appreciated.
Thanks, Basserron.
Have all the fuel and vacuum l lines been checked for leaks. Either could be sucking air.
Great video, mate! I especially liked the beer bottle repositioning and going down!
Excellent video on a widely overlooked subject !! Thank You Master !!
Great video- the dealer told me that it was difficult to get fuel pump kits since there were too many small parts and springs- which tend to go flying- never to be seen again by human eyes. I get the new pump already assembled.
I love your videos they have been a great help with me getting my old 1972 shetland 535 and my 1994 evenrude 50 up and running keep up the great work
Thanks David, glad the vids have been helping you with your boat.
Super good vid. Just a note you can purchase the whole fuel pump new on e-bay for around $14
I'm having a hard time with a 90 hp etec. It was operating last season and I went to start it this year and discovered a disentegrated fuel hose I have a picture of it but cannot tell where it connected to could I send you a picture and see if you could advise me where the other end connects ? I'm so desperate for help
After replacing the VRO twice on my 1988 140hp johnson I installed the pulse type pump about 10 years ago and have not had a problem since. Just have to make sure I bring 2 stroke oil, a measuring cup and my 50-1 mix cheat sheet when I fill it up.
I have a 140hp 1988 Johnson too and was having the same issue what’s the part number for the new pump?
@@fanciscovargas2559 Sorry but I can't remember for sure where I got it. Got it online. Check I-boats, Boats.net, Marine engine.com, Crowley marine or some of the other ones online.
You didn't explain how the engine will act if this fuel pump is having issues, and thus needs a rebuild. How do you test the pump before disassembly? OOPS, you have a diagnostic video called "outboard fuel pumps."
Bruce Wagenberg prime the bulb until stiff. You’ll see a leak in the fuel pump. It’ll be obvious
Dude!!! Your videos have helped me so much, I am in the process of bringing a non VRO 1995 Evinrude 88 SPL back to life. It has been setting for nearly 10 years, your channel has been so much help in the journey. Thanks so much and keep it up.
Glad I could help!
does this mix 2-stroke oil with gasoline? if not, could someone point me to a device that could?
i'm looking for a way to automatically mix the oil and gasoline at the proper ratio from two separate containers.
Thanks. Just what I needed. Clear and good close ups
Love these videos, Oh by the way you already have gas all over your hands from removing the hoses, a little late for the gloves.
These videos are the only outboard vids i watch very easy to understand explained in the way i think know special tool improvise
I wish you were my neighbor
For sure😂😂😂😂
You're the man, you're the man. Thanks for what you do.
You’re welcome. :)
Thank you for this and the carb rebuild video. Your presentation and step by step is very professional you are one of a rare breeds that can teach as well as do the job properly!
I HAVE A 70 HP EVINRUDE JOHNSON 1975 JUST GOT A NEW FUEL PUMP FROM AMAZON I THINK A UNIVERSAL ONE BUT MINE HAS 3 HOSES AND THE RUBER CIRLE PIECE YOU DIDNT USE MY QUESTION IS THE BOLT THAT YOU CAN TIGHTING BY HAND WHERE THE MAIN GAS GOES THROUGH CAN YOU TIGHTING TO MUCH AND DO YOU HAVE TO USE THE LAST GASKET YOU PUT ON I HAVE IT CAUSE IT CAME WITH NEW ONE BUT MY OLD ONE DID NOT HAVE IT ON THERE IM HAVING ISSUES KEEPING MY ENGINE RUNNING NOW
Thanks for the video, helped me, my 1975 70 HP johnson fuel pump was playing up, the air dome was stuck
You're welcome. :)
How was it running with that problem
TY Sir, after a few brisk ( above 4500 rpm ) runs, my 115 would limp back to the ramp on what I assumed 2 cyl, push the key and it would regain but only momentarily, leading me to believe fuel issue, took the screen out of fuel pump and it was 1/3 clogged
How often should you rebuild your fuel pump?
Thanks for this video! I need to rebuild one kf mine for an 87 johnson 150. I couldnt find one w the red gasket anymore but i found one w a black that says jts for my model, so it is about to ship and your video is going to make it alot more manageable. I attempted to use a cheapo Amazon one until my rebuild kit came, but it cant handle top end. At wot it starts to bogg until i let up
Thank you so much! helped a great deal. I have a question: When do you open the Core Plugs, those little aluminium caps? how do you open them? how do you seal in the new one? What is the purpose of those Core Plugs?
Lol now were back to NO gloves you are a riot mate.
I have an evinrude 75 hp year 1977 is going well but runs out of fuel I give it a vla pear and it works well it has to be the pump
Nicely explained. Would you suggest giving those short fuel lines a quick flush through to get rid of any possible flakes of rubber after being disturbed? I hope you have had a good Easter break .
Hey Ron, for sure, you can never do too much cleaning while something is apart. I always get a bit torn between giving a video a single searchable topic and running through all the things I would do while I was there. I was pleased to see there was no sign of varnish or fuel lining in the pump's mesh. That always gives me a fair bit of confidence they are still fine.
Really great info and a very good video.Thank you Stu!
Thanks mate, glad you liked it. :)
Hi Stu, swedish fan here! Im working on A similar motor (evinrude 30hp -92) and I recently rebuilt the carburator. Im wondering about what dimension the different fuel lines have (carb, primer etc) and How to flush and/Or replace them. Would Love get a tutorial on that. It would also be great if you would make a tutorial on How to set the idling speed using the mixture screw and idling screw on the left side of the motor. Having some issues with my sneezing motor!
Your videos has helped me alot, keep them coming!
Cheers!
Hi Cristoffer, these fuel lines tend to be 6mm inner diameter for smaller outboards and the 8 and 10mm for larger ones. I would be inclined to just replace fuel hoses. This video will give you a few tips on setting the idle (just ignore the vacuum gauge part for a two stroke, the rest is the same) th-cam.com/video/bsHCMJnRY9A/w-d-xo.html. Generally if a motor is sneezing it is because either the carbs are out of sync (if there is more than one) or it is running lean (blocked carburettor jets or a vacuum leak).
I love this series, because as Fate would have it, I bought a pontoon boat that has this very motor on it.
Great stuff Stu. Cant believe I gave away a classic mint condition old yammy 15 when all that was wrong was the pump (or so I learnt from your excellent channel). It won't happen again!
Oh well, live and learn. :)
Subscribed because your videos are so informative even though I may not need that particular repair.
Thanks mate, welcome aboard!
Looks like the same fuel pump as on my (what I suspect is a) 15hp Evinrude.
Hi Stu,I have a 1999 25hp Johnson,I fitted a new fuel pump,which I am not sure is the correct one.
The new one is from China,the part no's seem the same,but the fuel pipe on the outlet on the pump is a bigger dia than the original.The pipe from the engine to the diaphragm is the same.The engine ticks over sweet,but when I accelerate,the engine phut,phuts,and then picks up.I can't get the boat into the water at the moment,so I can't check it under load.I fitted a new inline (clear) fuel filter,which doesn't seem to get much fuel through it.
I changed the nipple on the pump for the old one,so that the dia was the same .The reduced size of pipe goes to the primer which is manual with no solenoid.It also goes to the bottom of the bowl.
The model number id. is-J25RLEEB.
Hope you don't mind me picking your brains,
Stan,from Manchester Uk.
great stuff, and thanks for sharing. Love the way you explain everything in detail.
I have a 2000 Evinrude 9.9 4-stroke outboard, that I have to keep pumping the fuel bladder to keep the motor running when in high throttle, but sitting still in neutral it can run forever.
I had a local shop work on it, and they replaced the original fuel pump that was designed to work with the crankshaft, which has a deeper diaphragm with one that is much shallower, but the problem still exist. Any idea on how to repair the fuel pump? I don't seem to be able to get any replacement parts for it. I appreciate it if you could help.
The flat sheet partnof my diaphragm had a good 1/4inch hole that caused lots of kaboom and engine flooding! Just replace the fuel pump, fuel hoses, and decarb! These engines runs forever
Excelente!!! Gracias. Saludos desde Argentina!!!
I have been having full throttle issues. The motor runs fine low speed. Give it full throttle and it acts like its starving for fuel. I noticed that the inline filter is not filling up and that there is only a trickle coming from the tank. I looked at the pump diaphragm and it looks ok but has lost its pliability so I suspect it may be bad. I pump up the primer and it fills the filter but then depletes as the motor runs. I cant see fuel in the filter so I have no idea how it is even running.
Hey man I got the same thing going right now. Ever figure it out??
I'm interested in knowing to
Similar issue with mine right now.
same problem here with my 1988 Johnson 110hp v4 I’m not gettting enough or no fuel unless if I pump it with an electrical pump I adapted
Same same..
Great explanation thank yuou for that, have you ever work in a outboard johnson evinrude motor 90 hp 4 stroke?
Great videos as always. Great service you provide
hello Dangar Marine thanks for all the videos, i have an issue with my 150 evinrude 1983, i think its running too rich and wasting too much gas, but the motr runs good and acelerates perfect, but wasting too much gas, what is the possible issue there?
Could be a carb tuning issue or a problem with the cold-start enrichement system being stuck on, or partially on.
1st, I’m a new subscriber & want to thank you for your tutoring. I’ve learned more from watching your video’s than I learned cumulatively through my trials over the years, so thank you again! I do have a question on the fuel pump though. If there is fuel in the carbs & you spray starter fluid in them or in cylinders, should the engine at least fire or show signs of firing, provided there is spark and everything else is in order? I ask because my 150 will not fire and I suspect fuel pump is part of problem if not the problem.
Interesting to watch and learn how these work. Great video
Thanks for telling me how to clean that corrosion
Another excellent video Stu; Thanks again Friend !!!.
Thanks Angelo!
Well done, Stu.
Thanks mate. :)
The mind that engineers stuff like this I tell ya...
Another stellar video! Do you think the 1980's Honda 7.5 is close enough in construction to use this video as a guide?
The basic principles will be the same. It may not have the second vacuum hose though.
Thanks Stu as always spot on.
Thanks John!
One of the best video on TH-cam !!! Thanks man ! respects from USA.
Good video, usefull. How's the boat building going on. Haven't seen much of that last weeks
Thanks mate. Boat build has stalled a little bit to to money and the availability of plywood but it should be going again within a week or two.
Great video Stu! Did you change this pump out for preventive reasons or did it have issues? I'm wondering if I should add this to the list of things to do to my evinrude 48 SPL that has been sitting for many years.
Hey Jack. In this case I am just using this motor as an excuse to film all these common jobs, but I would certainly consider doing this as a general service job every 5-10 years depending on use.
Great video Stu! Wild Turkey and coke pre-mixed in a bottle??? I need to get down to Australia!! :)
Thanks Ted. I find these premix bottles really save times when you are trying to get out of the house in a rush in the morning. ;)
Thanks for making these great videos man.
Love all your video's
I have a 1987 110 evinrude and after did a carburetor rebuilt the motor keeps dying change all the fuel line..new fuel pump...new fuel primer...but every time your press fuel from primer to the motor it runs until burn all the fuel then motor shuts off...prime fuel back into the motor it starts again until fuel burn out....i did everything everyone say on youtube.....any clue would help.
Thanks
I had alot of trouble getting the holes in the gasket and diaphragm to line up because of the presure from the springs on each side. I had to use a feeler gauge on each side to keep the springs from deforming it. Or was I just being to picky ?
Yes, that can be a problem. Good idea to use a feeler gauge to keep them in place. :)
All your videos are very informative. I removed the carbs. from a J50PLSTD 2003 outboard and can't figure out where some of the fuel hoses connect to. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Ken Prevette I try to mark mine, had the same problem one time.
I have a 86 85 hp force and it runs for awhile then stalls if you give the bulb a squeeze it will start back sometimes some times it wont .if it cools some it starts back up. I have a glass filter and theirs always got fuel.should I start with rebuilding the fuel pump?? replaced water pump impeller 2 yrs ago.it acts like it runs hard then falls off like you turn the key off. some times you can save it by squeezing the bulb sometimes you cant
Hi mate, great video. I’ve got a Johnson 35q that’s in reasonable condition for its age but it has been sitting idle on my brother’s boat for 3-4yrs. Was going when put in storage. I’d like to give it a birthday and put it on my boat. What steps would you recommend? I’m thinking Fuel pump service, water pump service and new fluids. Am I missing anything? TIA
Thanks for fantastic show!
We have Johnson 48 SPL, looks same as engine on this video except little larger.. yesterday I was out with kids and engine studdered a few times then few minutes later stated to smoke a bit and shut down with I think overheat buzzer on. After sitting out in the river for 45 minutes the the engine started back up. Found a bunch of gasoline in the bilge, though can't see any leak from the gas tank. There is a water separating fuel filter in the bilge area but I cant really see any leaking fuel from it. Do these systems pressurize that would cause the fuel filter in bilge to leak? For life of me I can't figure out where fuel came from in bilge except from the fuel/water separator filter. Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks again!
Hey Stu, if you have the time, we are hoping to get a bit of advice from Outboard Yoda. We are just in the early stages of building a Glen-L 10 foot plywood boat. We are hoping that we can pick up a good "vintage" 80's or 90's outboard off Gumtree (or wherever) around 15 to 25 HP. Something, that after a complete overhaul, is reliable, matches the "retro" styling of the boat, has reasonably priced and available parts, and something that we can easily fit forward controls to. Something in the range of $400 - $500 to buy and a couple of hundred to replace all the rubber bits, etc. What would be your first choice? Johnson, Evinrude or Mercury? And besides obvious signs of wear and tear (and without pulling the head off) what should we look out for? And finally how hard is it going to be getting the parts to convert an old tiller steer to forward control? Thanks mate, any advice would be greatly appreciated
Johnson/Evinrude are the same engines, just marketed to different social levels. If you want a 'vintage ' engine, then an early 70's/late 60's engine would be one to go for as they had that 'art deco' swoopy look to them.(it would seem we are going back to that style, have a look at what the latest 'update' is on four strokes, softer/rounder/swoopy shapes for the cowls) You should be able to find one pretty much for free if you're willing to scrap the boat it is on! A full rebuild would be needed.Johnson/Evinrude would be the way to go, you can get all the parts reasonably easily for most of the that era engines.
I agree with Ron that Johnson / Evinrude is probably the way to go due to the availability of parts and information. Just how retro you want to go depends on personal taste and tolerance for reliability. I've been meaning for ages to do a video on converting a tiller steer boat to forward controls. I even have the boat that needs it done. I must get onto that one.
Unless you have access to all the special bits and pieces, avoid the low profile 9.9 and 15hp Evinrude and Johnson. They need all sorts of not common/specialized parts to convert to remote controls. I believe that in the north east of the US, there are more of the parts needed, but I'm in the southwest.. :)
RichE
Thanks so much for this video. If I have a VRO with the VRO removed, can use this fuel pump? Thanks
Just bought a '91 Johnson fast strike 150 that the previous owner attempted to remove the VRO; no parts left for me so I needed up buying a manual pump that looks like this one. I am assuming the 2 middle ports are for the full rails for each carb/carb bank? The larger top inlet is for the bulb side (main fuel line)?
Howdy from Sugarland Texas. I have a 90SPL Pre mix. I noticed that I am getting 2-Stroke oil residue all over the inside of engine cover and engine. However the engine runs great and never fouls plugs. What could be the problem ? Is this a sign that its time for a rebuild ? Even though it runs great.
Great! Can you advise on if the aftermarket fuel pumps are worth installing or is oem yhe only way to go?
Have a question if you don't mind... I broke off the stem that goes in the bottom of the carburetor bowl. I'm pretty sure it's the return from the fuel pump is this necessary or can I delete it and plug the hole in the bowl? Or is it necessary for keeping a constant pressure in the carburetor?
Well I built mine a little different. Like wrong lol. Thats why it was leaking. Back to the drawing board. Thanks for the video duude!
Awesome video. Very small parts. I see yee we’re enjoying a bundy aye!
Thanks Bob, glad you enjoyed. :)
Thanks for the video Dangar Marine. This helped me tremendously with my fuel pump rebuild. One question tho, When you removed the pump from the engine, the cap was positioned to the right. When you installed it after the rebuild it was positioned to the left. Which side is the proper position?
Thanks for posting these super valuable videos. I've saved most of them to my hard drive to learn how to service my own engine. I have a question, I run an old 76 Evinrude 15hp. I came across an old timer in TN who claims he uses this pump, which I believe to be OEM #438652, Sierra 18-7351, just curious why I don't hear more people talking about it. Here's what he said: "I would consider getting the larger pump #438652, 18-7351. The larger pump is easily rebuildable and pumps much better. It is used on the later 9.9/15 anyway for this reason. The OEM pump has a removable outlet nipple that can be changed for different sizes. I use it instead of the small pump all the time when space allows and that is most of the time. Much better pump." - I wanted to ask you what you thought about that, ever tried it on a 15?
I'm not familiar with that particular upgrade but everything he says makes sense so I could consider doing it.
@@DangarMarine not sure if my 76 offers the same two tubes for the oscillating effect you mention but surely a pipe tee would fix it if I only had one tube ?
@@normandunnaganjr.5034 that year doesn't offer the 2 tube oscillating feature. That began around 1990
If my fuel pump on my 15 hp 4 stroke Yam became inoperable when I was on the water can I attach the fuel line from the gas tank directly to the carb and squeeze it ever so often to be able to run home?
Yes.
First I'd like to say your videos have taught me a lot about outboards, more than my actual class I took on them did! Everytime I have an issue with a motor that is stumping me I come here for clues and answers. Unfortunately I have another issue that has me stumped, I have a 70hp evinrude that will only fire up when you use the prime feature by pushing the key in but it won't stay running once that shot of fuel is gone. The carbs have been cleaned 4 times and it is getting the right amount of fuel pressure, what am I missing?
Try this procedure…when it stops running on startup, reprime the fuel line bulb until hard. Prime with the key again for 10 seconds. Start again. Keep repeating the bulb prime, key prime, start untill she runs. After 3 try’s, open the throttle 25% and repeat ….
I enjoy your knowledge, you have helped me a few times. I have a 00 Yamaha 25 Hp, 3cyl. Will it not run better on high octane? Or is 87 better for it?
Hey stu I have a 50 Evinrud and I got a rebuild kit for the fuel pump and I rebuilt it and put it on my boat and fuel was still spraying out please help
Hi, that little dome @ 7:58, should it push up and down? My plastic "pin" is a tight fit in the hole, so it doesn't push down. Is that right? If not, what does that pin valve do and what would the symptoms be? My motor kept running then almost cutting out, then running, almost like a misfire but it just caught again. I suspected the fuel pump.. Could this be the issue? Thanks
Would that cover have cracked from over tightening?
Say if it had been rebuilt in the past?
Great video and really not much to them , and I must say just a superb illustration on how to rebuild a pump . Question good buddy , I have a 1996 115 ocean pro and the primer ball is brand but it will not build any kind of pressure , so do you think the fuel pump is shot ? Thank you for your time ? And great channel a new sub here
Thanks mate. If you disconnect the fuel line from the outboard does it build pressure then? If so the fuel must be going somewhere, either in to the crankcase through a torn fuel pump gasket or out through the carburettors due to the needle and seat in the bowl not sealing.
@@DangarMarine when I disconnect it from the outboard it still doesn’t build pressure . It has to be something simple . Thanks for your time .
If no fuel leaks out the end of the hose it is either a faulty bulb or installed wrong way around.
@@DangarMarine
I tried another bulb and now it’s priming , and the other is faulty . Who would think a new ball valve would be faulty ? Thanks again for your help and I love your channel . Cheers
Stu , I’ve seen that there are 2 diff sizes of replacement fuel pump for removing vro unit , would my Johnson gt 150 v6 take the larger or smaller one ? And I’m getting a lot of unburnt oil on the inside of the cowl and running down the front of the motor . And ideas on that as well sir?
What size bolts did you use to mount the fuel pump?
I too am wondering what size screws to mount fuel pump.
@dangar marine
Hey thanks for the informative videos you share. Purchased an older early 90's evinrude 140 2/cycle outboard and was wondering what your recommended oil to fuel mixture ( ounces of premix oil to each gallon of gas would be) Thanks for any knowledge you would advise! Have a great day sir!!
3 ounces of tcw3 certified oil per gal aprox 50:1 in 87 or 89 octane non ethanol gas super tech tcw3 at Walmart 13.00 per gal or a semi synthetic tcw3 for HD use of motor might run cleaner on semi synthetic oil .
Thanks for all this information on the fuel pump and carb rebuild ! , I'll be doing these jobs on my 89 30hp Johnson , would you recommend installing an inline fuel filter for extra protection ? can the fuel pump handle the added resistance ?? thanks again for all your detailed videos
Won't hurt and with the boats with inbuilt tanks they always have a larger fuel filter with a fine cartridge to avoid cleaning the tank regularly.