Four stroke carburettor synchronisation
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video I go through tuning the carburettors on a four stroke outboard motor. This includes adjusting the mixture screws to get the fastest idle, reducing the idle and then using a carburettor synchroniser to balance the carburettors.
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This has by far been the most instructional, informative video I have found to date.
Thanks mate, hope it helped you.
I've enjoyed viewing your videos tonight. They've given me that bit of motivation to soldier on.
I've just spent the weekend on a Yammy F100AET (F100TLRZ) trying to figure out why the alarm sounds then it goes into Limp Mode. After cleaning sensors & changing oils I've come to the conclusion that I'm gonna have to go in hard.... remove the head as there's water in the sump and milk running from the leg. Also while I had the Sump plug out and the flush hose on, found water dripping from the sump plug. Thanks Dangar.
Good luck with getting the motor back in shape. I hope the videos help you do that. :)
Extremely helpful and clear, really appreciate it. I really enjoy all your vids, thanks!
Thanks Andrew, glad you enjoyed it. :)
Hi there, i have an '81 evinrude 35hp 2cyl 2-stroke with single carburettor. Engine starts and runs superb. When it gets up to temperature it keeps stalling at idle, say like when docking. If i want to restart, i need to give it a little throttle in order to make it start. It will run fine afterwards, unless i need it to idle. Plugs, thermostat, waterpump have been replaced, switched to non-ethanol gas and gave the carburetor a clean with solvent and compressed air but the problem persists. Any ideas?
So I presume you've been through upping the idle and setting the mixture screws as per this video (although you can't do a vacuum test on a 2 stroke). I would also check compression, reed valves and timing (videos on all on the channel)
awesome video . i learned so much in 30 min. tomorrow i will do the same to my 60 horse mariner after a few upgrades.
Thanks mate, good luck!
This is BY FAR the best video that I've found on this subject for the backyard marine mechanic. Thank you, you just saved me a TON of time, money, and cursing. Cheers from Canada! Sub'd and liked.
Thanks Alex, glad you liked it. :)
on most 4 stroke outboards, the bottom carb is (90% of the time) the "master" carb. if you start from the top one, your mixture screws will be all over the place, as demonstrated here by accident. a hint that the bottom #3 carb is the master is that it is not adjustable on its own. they dont want you messing with it. so adjust the bottom carb 1st, and i bet all the other carbs are within 1/4 turn of eachother. its also entirely possible he has a carb blockage as mentioned, but its idling so well i doubt that is the case.
Very good video sir thank you from the 🇺🇸 North east!!!! 👍🏻👍🏻
I’m looking at purchasing a Honda 2006 Bf 40 tiller I’ve been told they are a good engine thoughts...?
Yes, those Hondas are very good engines.
This video I felt was pretty cut and dry. Very helpful and it all made perfect sense to me. Thank you for taking the time to explain all of this. Great videos!
Brilliant clear explanation. Thanks. VERY helpful.
You're welcome!
For a doofus like me, you working on what looks like a Honda 50 (my motor) is HUGE! Thanks.
You're welcome. This is a 40 but the principle is the same for almost all four strokes.
I meant to add.......you tube is great but too many guys think they are media personalities or leave the camera on while they tighten a bolt. You get straight to the point and there are no 'dull' parts where I have to watch you spray paint the engine or something asinine. In other words, you are not just a good mechanic and a great you-tuber, you are also a great editor. Much appreciated.
Thanks mate. I know I go through quite a bit of talking theory in some videos but I try not to make them too boring! :)
thank you I am currently fighting with a BF30 with fuel issues. Hopefully I have it sorted. I have been following your videos all the way through. Now I start on a Yamaha F150 that hasn't been started in two years so on to clogged injectors :/
Glad to hear the vids have been helping you. Good luck with the F150. There are plenty of placed that can professionally clean injectors for you for not too much money.
My adjustments get lean as I turn out. I had a misfire on one cylinder at about 5 half turns out. So I leaned it out to around 7 half turns out and it’s much better.
Great video. Thanks for taking time to explain all this information ...
You're welcome Duane, glad you enjoyed. :)
love your videos never worked on outboard motors before but hell these vids bloody neer make a machanic out of me thanks dangar
Thanks Tony, glad the vids are helping you. :)
Awesome, from Florida. Thanks!
You're welcome. :)
Absolutely fantastic video thumbs up
I was recently given a boat and am trying to learn all about it and its 1998 Yamaha 115 2 Stroke outboard. (I have ordered the owners and service manuals and will read them when they arrive, but for now am just watching TH-cam videos and reading internet articles.) I understand that what you are doing here is fine tuning (after everything else is good), but I am interested in whether what you show for carburetor tuning applies to both 2 stroke and 4 stroke outboards. (I THINK your demo engine in this video is a 4 stroke.)
Great video!! Gonna try this on my BF50 That only runs on 2 cyl nos
great video Danger, thank you very much. my old 1992 Evinrude 60hp 2stroke doesn't have quiet all that for adjustments, but i got it well enough that i can make the adjustments necessary to get the job done as well as it can be. thanks again, great stuff.
Absolute ledgend
My bad, Stu, I asked a very involved question... I didn't even say thanks for the video, I learn a lot. You must have been a teacher in your former life.
No worries, glad you liked the vid. :)
Golly gee I thought I was going to give you the best and warmest comment That's all you get Amen
This is such a great video, Thanks Dangar! How about a rebuild video on these small carbs?
Just search for Dangar Marine Carburettor, there are plenty.
Excellent info thanks
Thanks Scott, glad you liked it.
Great video-Please watch that shirt sleeve around that spinning flywheel!
Thanks Billy, you are right that you can never be too careful, don't want to do an Isadora Duncan!
Dangar Marine how can I contact this guy to ask him some carb questions
....super video....very informative....thank you!...my engine suffers exactly the same symptoms as you showed demonstrating a vacuum leak...it turns over but will not fire!...my gaskets look ok but there is a slight blemish/ tear on the block gasket....would this kill be enough to kill the engine????....is there anywhere else I should look for a vacuum leak??...
No, a small tear on the block gasket probably won't cause it to not start. Some newer EFI engines have an idle air control valve that can leak because it is connected with rubber hoses. Leaks are a bit harder to find when the motor won't start. You can use an LPG torch like the one I heat things up with to help find leaks if the motor is running. You turn it on so a bit of gas is coming out but NOT NOT LIGHT IT! The unlit gas will get sucked into a vacuum leak and make the engine idle change you just keep pointing it at different areas until you find the spot. So given it won't start though, are you sure you don't have another problem too?
....Stu....very many thanks for your kind reply....so frustrated this end....just will not start when cold unless I use a whiff of "easy-start"...have throughly cleaned carbs as per your vids, replaced plugs and ht leads, fuel supply is good, passed compression test...search goes on...thanks again..P....
Your first step was adjusting the idle mixture screw on each carburetor to the point where the engine ran the fastest. But then when you made the adjustment on the "butterfly valves" the engine rpms also changed but that rpm increase did not seem to factor into your carburetor adjustment. If I understood you correctly you adjusted them so that they were all the same, apparently using the bottom carburetor's vacuum indication because it was the hardest to access adjust (if I heard you correctly). What are we accomplishing here when you make the "butterfly valve" adjustment? I understand we are getting vacuum values closer to each other but overall what are we doing beyond what you accomplished by your first step (adjusting the individual idle mixture screws)? Looking at your synchronizer gauge there are red arcs above and below where the indication needles lay. In a gauge "red" usually means "not good" while a "green" marking/arc usually indicated good or desirable, but you did not seem to reference either the red or green arcs on the face of the gauge. Are those color (or is it spelled colour in Australia) markings on the synchronizer gauge not applicable to these carburetors?
-Thanks!
Nice...i would like something like this for my boat...
+Florin Tancu You can get them on eBay pretty cheap these days.
Oh,thank u!
I ll check
thank you
Welcome. :)
I always thought when tuning carbs you want them all set the same turns out? Is that true or no
Excellent video bro! really helped better understand the carburetor system. I'm in the process of resealing all the gaskets 1987 johnson 150 vro. Question do you use a spray sealant on the head gaskets the manual says not to use automotive sealer but doesn't say anything else. Thanks again keep up the good videos they really help.
Do NOT use anything on the gaskets... make sure all surfaces are even and clean then install as is. Buy a proper OMC manual and tighten bolts in sequence to the manual specifications.
Hi is it possible that the idle mixing screw on some carburators only effects the acceleration performance? On a F30 the rpm don’t change when I adjust them. But I see a big difference in acceleration in low rpms.
Hello Stu,
Somebody said that this nice procedure only works well for 4 strokes outboards, was wondering if will work good on multicarb 2 strokes motors provided there's a proper place on the carbs or manifold to connect those vaccum meters hoses. If so, which vaccum reading will be good to adjust all carbs for for a nice fuel/air mixture while motor idles at neutral ? Thanks.
Hello, do you have any video of synchronizing the carburettors of a johnson V4?
Great video, thoroughly explained, may I ask how many inches of vac should a 60hp 4 stroke non efi engine have?, I’m balancing the carbs on it, feels & sounds very nice, only in the water it seems to bog down, filters, lines, pump all have been cleaned, any ideas or suggestions would be much appreciated, cheers, Chris
Not sure about the inches of vac, generally I just aim for them to be even. Sounds like the carb jets might need a clean too.
Why does the engine run when the choke is out only on my Honda 75 4stroke plz answer when chance is given to u
Sounds like blocked carburettors running lean and being compensated for by pulling the choke out. Start by cleaning the carburettors..
Also I do have one question I don't know where to buy the tool for the last nut behind the thing to remove the carbonator
Also what could I use clean them or do I have to take them off
Thank you man
Great thanks
You're welcome. :)
Our top 2 cylinders are syc’d at 11, but the bottom vacuum is sitting at 8 not spotting any leaks, any advice?
What would make a 40 mercury run great one day and run like crap the next day could this be a carburetor adjustment
Hi Dangar !
I'am a french with BF25 your vids help me so more !!! Thank !!!
Can you tell me in which direction turn the pilot/mixture screws to have more essence (clockwise or anti-clockwise)?
Do you the basic factory setting ?
continue like that !!! ;)
Screw in-leaner (less fuel), screw out-richer ( more fuel )
Dear Dangar . If you may answer the following technical question . Say you plug your vacuum gauges and you see the following numbers ie 10 - 10 - 6 . This means that one cylinder has a ) the throttle body out of sync or b) has a serious vaccum leak . Could be a gasket , a hose or something else ... How would you know if a) you just need to sync the throttle body or b) you need to look closer and inspect a possible vaccum leak ? Thanks alot . Theodoros , Corfu , GREECE Yamaha 2 stroke 115 owner
Hi Theodoros, you can check for a vacuum leak by waving an unlit gas torch (like the one I use to heat parts) around the intake manifold and crankcase. Do this outdoors for good ventilation. If there is a vacuum leak the LPG will get sucked in and you will hear the idle change with the extra fuel being added.
The reason I am asking is because my 2 stroke yamaha 115 had some issues with cold start . We checked everyting . compression , carb setup , pipes , vaccums , reeds ... everything . Once operating it worked perfect . But it was a handfull getting it to fire up . Especially during winter .... Your Ocean pro 150 rebuild was epic !!! I spend a whole day and saw all rhe vids . You remind me off greek outboard mechanics !!! keep posting . I want to install on my 115 cetol power reeds and an exhaust from the 130 ...
is this the same procedure for syncing a Mercury saltwater series 150hp 2 strokes carby's
Awesome video. I have a 4 storke yamaha 60hp ,4 carbs and looks like there is a screw on the bottom Carb that controls all of them . Can I use this same principle?
Have you ever experienced a cylinder not firing then next minute it’s a different cylinder that’s not firing and the other one is working again?
My mixing screws are all stuck, any solutions ??
Hey Stu, am I correct in thinking that these tuning methods apply to two stroke carbs as well as four stroke carbs?
Two strokes don't have intake vacuum so just the part with adjusting the mixture screws to get the highest RPM is for two strokes.
Stu is it true this method is only suitable for 4 stoke motors and not a 2 stroke ?
The first part to do with mixtures is the same for any motor, but only 4 strokes have an inlet manifold to check the vacuum pressure.
Stu I was wondering if u can comment on how to tune 4 merc carbs in a 2005 125 ELPTO. Only carbs 1 and 2 have idle adjustment screws. The RPMs increase when I turn in from the service manual setting but it surges. Seems to run smoother when i turn it out but the RPMs are lower. Not sure where to go from here.
Not sure sorry, never done a carb balance on one of those. I would say you simply balance each carb to it's non-adjustable partner.
After the first past working with the air mixture screw, wouldn't it be a good idea to start at the top and tweak them now that the other cylinders are running more smoothly?
Hi Joe. You can do, but in theory once a cylinder is contributing the most power it can it should be very close to the ideal stoichiometric ratio, regardless of what the other cylinders are set to. If the RPM changes hugely with the bottom two cylinders, then yes, checking number one again probably is a good idea.
can you do a video on checking you ignition coils on that engine?
th-cam.com/video/MDbvkFM1V_c/w-d-xo.html
I have a 3.5 mercury outboard that cuts out when put in gear sometimes when it's idle what do you think could be wrong..
Hi James, I would start by giving the carburettor a clean and maybe upping the idle a little bit.
I just rebuilt my carbs on a 1999 yamaha 130 txrx 2 stroke. It runs really good until im at full throttle it surges. Could carbs be out of sync? Im replaced just about everything fuel related.
Sounds more like its starving for fuel. Could be sucking air from one of the fuel lines.
Yea I do.
All good, just thought there would be a simple fix? I'll sort it out sooner or later
Thank you for taking the time to answer.
Enjoy your night.
Thanks again.
Cheers.
No probs. If it is hard to start cold then you are looking at reasons for it running lean at idle. The other obvious one is blocked idle jets so don't rule out a good carb clean. Have great weekend! :)
THANK I WILL TRY ON MY 30 HP HONDA
Good luck!
How do you adjust for more top end. I have a 90s c75 2 stroke that I think needs a little more fuel at the top end. But it only has idle adjustments.
ONCE GET MIXER AJUST SMOOTH MAY NEED SLOWN DOWN IDEAL ADVERAGE 2 , 2 1/4 TURN OUT!! IDEAL ARPM SMOOT IN TO GEAR NOT JURK!
Very interesting and informative. Thank you !
You're welcome. :)
Is there a reason this tune was done in the water and not on muffs?
Because I don’t own a trailer. Boat lives in the water.
If u come across and old 1970 to 80 35hp Johnson please do a full rebuild
Doing a '94 Johnson 30 at the moment.
Hi Dangar Marine i have a issue we my 1995 yamaha 90 2 stroke running foward they dont go more that 3500 RPM I remove the oil tank mixer i mix the oil we gas now ,i change the spark plugs i clean the carburattors ,i change the fuel line ,the prime i clean the little filter inside the motor,i check the fuel pump don have any hole on the diagfragm the compression on all 3 cillinder is 140 on each cilinder and is working better but not more than 3500 RPM, I dont know if is the CDI SAFE MODE or any other Issue,can you o any person here can help me PLEASE.
Thanks
Would this be the same for an inboard motor?
Yep.
Hey mate, love your videos. I have a quick question about my '86 Yamaha 40HP 2s. It starts like a dream on land but it just doesn't start as well when it is on the water. And it gradually gets harder as the day progresses on the water. Also, sometimes it stalls on low speed while trying to dock at the end of the day. Do you think these issues have anything to do with idle speed adjustment? Or is there a more sinister problem showing signs? Do you have a video that shows Yammy adjustments? Thanks!
I would start with a carburettor clean and adjust and do a compression test to make sure that is okay.
@@DangarMarine Thanks! I shall do that.
Help! 1978 johnson 70hp starts and idles great in neutral it revs up great with the choke turn choke off once warm up still idles good so as its in gear stalls
I would do a basic service: carburettor clean, new spark plugs and see how it goes then.
i still like my 8 hp ,1 carb
You can't beat single carb motors for reliability and serviceability.
You're literally the only person on youtube that explain every detail!!! I've been struggling with syncing my motorcycle. This video helped immensely. MUCH appreciated.
This was a great video and walkthrough!! the only bit of advice i would add is, when using multiple vac. gauges like that before you fine tune them its not a bad idea to check and see if they all read the same on 1 carb. sometimes those gauges can read a little differently but than after that you're set!!! great video!! new subscriber
Great tip Zac
Do you mean check 1 carb at a time ?
@@levibellette7726 no necessarily that. I just meant before you hook each gauge up to their own carb. check each gauge on the same carb first real quick! Iv'e had 1 out of 4 gauges read off before and messed up my whole tune! just a little tad of advice!:)
I use a mighty vac to test each gauge as a kind of calibration - 10” on the mighty vac reads 9” on gauge 1, 10” on gauges 2 and 3, 11” on gauge 4 - I then grease pencil a +1 on gauge 1 and -1 on gauge 4.
Did that make sense? Ha!
@@dekrev ahah yupp, very nice!. too bad you can't just turn the gauge faceplate so the needle all reads the same. good idea though!
I don't even own a boat yet, but have been learning a lot through your videos. I really appreciate the clarity of your descriptions and speed at which you walk us through each procedure. When I find the right boat, I'll have a lot more confidence in surveying the condition of the engine. Thanks so much and keep them coming!
Thanks Sam. Sounds like you're going about it the right way to learn as much as you can before you choose your boat. Good luck!
You lay your money down, and take your chances.
The most informative vid I've seen on this subject. Thanks for that! I love the plain, no frills vids that relay information. 👍
Thanks Joseph, glad you liked the video. :)
If a start my 75 mariner moter and it is running the fuel pis out my moter in to may transim of my boat
Lizaan van der Bergh bad reed valves if it’s a 2 stroke
@@lizaanvanderbergh6648 the carburettor/s are most likely to be flooding,, the float valves may be stuck down,, by the way,, too check your "reed valves are working right,, take off the air box on the carburettor's and run your engine holding a white card close to the front of each carburreter if any fuel is spitting out on the card then that cylinder's reed valves are bad,, not setting or are broken! if one is broken you MUST find all of the reed valve,, don't just swop out the reed valve without finding the broken part,, as it very likely to find its way into your engine when its running,,,, then your engine go's with a bang!,, and you get one written off engine!,, so find all the broken off part's!
Carbs are still scary, but slightly less so now. Thanks. :)
You're welcome. You'll get your head around them in the end and they won't be scary. :)
don't be scared!! always remember, "carb's suck"... yeah, really. it's how they work, it what makes them work, it's actually their job, sucking. all ANY jet, orifice, port, or valve does in a carb is moderate the sucking, and what get's sucked. synching just gets them sucking in harmony. idle mixture makes sure they suck the same at rest. a main jet just regulates maximum sucking, while a needle moderates that sucking according to load. an idle jet just makes sure enough, but not too much is available to suck at rest. any other jet does the same, just for a different throttle position, and those that are MORE open. the float makes sure they all suck at sumps with equal head. bingo, you just learned just about all there is to know. seriously. an accelerator pump just adds a squirt more than needed (fuel) to encourage the motor to gain speed. for as much depth as you will probably ever need, just search "free download mikuni tuning manual", and peruse the dozen pages or so it yields. the mikuni rundown is comprehensive, about as easily understood as addition, and entirely fright free, i promise. all carbs work basically the same way, at least at the theory level (as a single barrel solex downdraft has a bit different junk inside than a mikuni slider), so the nice simple mikuni WILL help you comprehend such wizardry as webers, and rochester q-jets (which operate with black magic, seemingly to most)
Thanks luddite. Love the name btw.
l
Matthew Millar I think the scariest part in dangling all those tools over the water. Splash splash all gone!
Dangar you are the fking man! You have helped me with countless of your videos and if you are ever over to the US and down in Florida I'm going to buy you some beers and take you out fishing. Thank you for your time to help myself and others become more proficient with their outboard engines. To the viewers reading this comment, always look for Dangar's videos first when troubleshooting or preparing to fix your next outboard issue!
Thanks mate, glad the vids have been helping you. :)
I have the same motor as you so this video is ideal. Ordered an equalizer and a cheap digital tach at half the price of 1 hours labor of my marine tech so once I tune there will be no doubt that it is done right. Thanks best video yet.
It's always nice when you can buy the tools to keep and still have spent less money. :)
The ol’ “Fender noise”.. no dog around to blame it on hey ;) Grea video mate cheers!
You scared me with your shirt sleeve when you reached in to adjust the throttle position on the top carb for the vacuum adjustment. It may not have been, but in the video it looked like the sleeve was close to the flywheel. If you were doing the balance from scratch, would have aimed for max vacuum in the bottom carb and balanced the others to match? Or would you maybe sacrifice your highest carb vacuum reading a bit if that is what was required to make the worst carb read the same - ie, worst carb will not go lower than -10lbs, best carb reads -12, so sacrifice your best carb a bit and adjust for say -10.5 or -11lbs?And your comment about the lost tools brought a laugh - I saw more than a few , and lost some myself, when working on the seaplanes at Rose Bay! Even a ring spanner that had been drilled and had a lanyard on it, the guy stumbled and kicked the spanner into the water from the pontoon!
You used to work on the sea planes at Rose Bay? Cool! That would have been a great job. We still get a few from Pittwater landing near the island. I used to work at a house boat marina at Wiseman's Ferry and the owner there would get out her string and magnet every time a mechanic lost one of her tools. She'd always get them back! You are right that you can definitely be more thorough and see how high you can get the vacuum on that bottom cylinder. The middle step where I drop the idle again in essence does this in a quick and dirty kinda a way, but spending a bit more time to get it perfect isn't a bad way to spend an afternoon in the sun. As you say though, you can get to the point where the others can't match it in which case I would always go for even. I should probably have put that flywheel cover back on first. I tool it off because the bendix gear jammed against the flywheel one morning and I had to smack it down. Can't be too safe!
I have a question that doesn’t relate much to the video but would help me a great deal if you had an answer. Do you know where I’d be able to find a long block 140 mercruiser io? Or have any suggestions on where I could start looking? Thanks!
I would look on gumtree.com.au
Can't thank you enough with words for taking the time to make this video for us. Thanks Stu!
Thanks mate, you're most welcome. :)
nope, don't even own an outboard. Or an inboard, or any boat at all. Still found it interesting though.
I have been a Marine Mechanic in Wisconsin for 30+ years. Nice Video and i use the stainless slide type sync from Carbtune. Ordered it from overseas. 100.00 bucks. Love it and nothing better then carbs synced after a tune up.
Thanks mate, glad you liked the vid. I'll have to check out the tool you are referring to.
He is the nightmare of all those private mechanic out there hahahaha
Great comparison with tuning a guitar. Always a pleasure watching your tutorials especially with a stubbie in the foreground. Thank you!
My pleasure!
I don't know if you'll have many Mercury outboards down under but if you ever have a chance to show please do
Will do!
Yes please. I am tinkering with my old one to get it running better. I thank yoi for the note on vacuum leaks. I need to check my gasket.
My 2003 90hp elpt 3s doesn't need a sync (don't believe) but went ahead and bought a 75.00 gauge set off Amazon to check it anyway. Do all my own service and always known about the need to do a sync but been a mystery til watching this and other videos.
I have x4 Keihin BCF carbs and just did a complete cleaning and is running great now. Not using boat often these day's so plan to get more religious about either draining carbs completely when it's gonna sit or fill filter housing with special mixture (quickclean/seafoam and stabil) and pump into carb...not sure which would be best.
Looking into replacing carb drain screws with an easily accessible set of 4 shutoff valves instead as getting to the two bottom screws is a kinda a pain.
Good idea adding the valves, the screw can be hard to get to and very easy to drop in the lower cowling.
@@DangarMarine (correction, elpt 4s not 3s). Carb drain plug size/threading seems to be either 28 or 32 tpi (or somewhere between ?). Couldn't discern going to local hardware so hoping specialty shop has what I need. Figure a short little neoprene barb fitting would be safest so as to not damage drain threads.
Using 4 qty lawn mower type gas shut offs.
Fun fact: Mercuruiser stern drives have an interrupter switch that actually turns ignition off for a few milli seconds as the unit is shifted from neutral . This protects the shift components in the bottom end. Works quite well. Don't know if outboards have similar tech, but they should imho.
yes of course outboards have a "shift interrupter" switch. if its a v4, kills one bank of cylinders so its easy on the pinion gear. a V6, 3 cyl (entire port or std. bank). anything smaller than a v4 and its not an issue. although many v4's dont need one depending on the gearcase.
great video & thanks. I need help with a 2000 60hp 4stoke mercury. I took the carbs apart to dip them. & removed the butter fly & I can't get it running right again. I thought all of butter flyies were the same & but I keep changing them & the carbs keep doing different things. One time it runs good but can't get it off high idle, next low idle running ruff.
Hi Jim. I would have thought they would all be identical. If you look at a parts diagram for that motor do all three carbs have the same part number? Are the seals between the carburettors and the engine block in good condition? The problem may not be caused by the butterflies themselves.
Stu I have watched soooo many of your videos. I can’t thank you enough. You’ve helped me do nearly everything for my Johnson and Yamaha outboards. Great work! Great info! Please keep them coming!
I dont know if boat motor carbs have similar stages as automotive carbs but if so here's another tip. When you adjust the mixture screws you are adjusting the fuel through the idle circuit. If the engine rpm increases significantly while making the adjustment the carb will begin to draw fuel from the off-idle circuit, thus upsetting your adjustment. Best to keep the rpm adjusted to an idle speed as you adjust mixture screws so you're working within the idle circuit. Also, it looked like your vac hoses may have been partially pinched at around 23:37. But, as with your previous video's, you are clear and concise, and very detailed. Good videos, thanks.
I just want to say thank you for taking the time to really explain every detail of what you are doing and explaining everything in simple terms.
Thanks mate, glad you're enjoying the vids. :)
very informative with the service video and this one I don't see if your attentive what your doing you can't service any engine.
great videos 👍👍
Your videos on boat motor repairs are Thee Most Informative And Unmatched! I Always Enjoy Learning From You! Saying Thank You Isn’t Enough! Long Live, Dangar Stu⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️🏌🏾♂️
Well, now everything is EFI,, so now more costly gauges , meters etc,, .. damm as soon as I buy a balancer now I need a pressure diameter, and a vac compensator, bls, bla, bla..... Last year 3 of my regular customers switched back to Evinrude 115 two strokes after pouring thousands into Honda & Yamaha four cycles, They bought the engines from me which I rebuilt and had ready to go, They fished all season with know problems at all, got their fish & were happy with the motors,,, So I will continue to rebuild the old OMC 2 strokers as the market is out there, Buying a new four cycle is all about the warranty ,,, If it is a great coverage go for it,,, But if you want to get by on the cheap & just catch fish, find a good 2 stroke Evinrude or Johnson rebuild it for $400 & run it for the next decade. kodi
There is no doubt that an old motor like those can still be very reliable and cost less that your first service on a new four stroke.
I like your plane down to earth approach to everything
Thanks, I have done that to my Suzuki GSX-F 750 with same type of synchronizer. Nice to learn more and now with boat engines.
Bonjour ,est ce que sur les carburateurs YAMAHA dont les N° sont les suivants 688-14301 688-14302 688-14303 ont peux y mettre des manomètres de synchronisation ou le système CARBTUNES .Qui permet de synchroniser mes carburateurs moteur de 1999. Si oui ,expliquez moi comment et ou poser les tuyaux pour bien faire la synchronisation des 3 carburateurs .En vous remerciant.
Thank you so much. That was excellent instruction. I have another question. I have an old 1985 Mercury black max 150 v6. In idea it revs fine until I run it a little. Then it revs super high. Any suggestions? Is that a dirty carb most likely?
If you don`t have them fluctuation steady valves on the hoses , I`ve always used a 3 -4 ft hose make sure it`s a U shape add 10cc 2 stroke oil in the hose or each hose attach it to carb keep the guage same height all carbs the oil stops the surge , if it goes thru the motor you won`t hurt anything ,
Hi mate, sounds like a good tip. I'm bound to lose those valves at some stage so I'll give it a try. :)
Hi Stu,
can you tell me the size of the tubes you are using for Johnson/Evinrude v4/v6, I bet it is not metric 😁
Great ! I had forgot some details of balancing carbs , old age eh ?
Watching again for a buddy I sent him link also
I hope it helps!
Thanks a ton!
I am just about to endeavor doing this very task and you have clarified it for me perfectly.Now I know how to adjust the fuel idle mixture as with 3 carbys to do,I was somewhat clueless as to the proper procedure.This video makes it look a breeze and just as soon as I rebuilt them I'll be getting stuck into them.It makes it look so easy!
You're welcome mate, good luck with the tune up!