From someone that lives in the Arctic and boats here you do not need to put mesh around your prop. If you get into ice that's going to contact your prop you have much bigger problems. All its going to do is increase your fuel consumption and create problems with cavitation and possible blockages with debris (that will have to be cleared by getting in the water).
Do you operate around pack ice? I consulted pros on this, and the mesh was seen as the front runner of a number of designs. Around pack ice, small chunks of ice often travel under the boat - too large to float by on the surface but large enough to get wedged.
I also have a concern about the mesh. No pack ice experience, but when rivers freeze here in Canada we can get something called frazzle ice. It creates ice jams and flooding. If you ran into small ice chunks that could pack together, you may block the prop. Just a thought.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals When I have to, I do, by have to I mean saving someones life. Pack Ice is very dangerous for small boats especially fiberglass hulls. There's a couple things to think about. 1) ice floats and moves, how deep is your prop under the water line. Do you want to be in ice that's thick enough yo make it to your prop? How much ice can your boat push thru. 2) There's already a Keel and a shrod protecting your prop from strikes. 3) The biggest thing to lookout for is massive pieces of ice just under the surface that you can not see. The shroud and keel will keep the prop safe. I always have a spare prop on the boat. PM me if you want to chat about my qualifications, I'd be more than happy to chat with you about my experiences.
Yes to the autopilot if you can swing it. If you're planning to motor for hours or days at a stretch it will greatly reduce your cognitive load and fatigue. With wave action, motor torque and other imbalances you won't be able to just lock the helm for very long. For Alan even a basic (cheap) sailboat style tillerpilot that connects to your GPS might be enough. Be wary of anything that uses a magnetic compass if you're going to high latitudes (as I'm sure you're well aware).
As someone who has sailed on a commercial ship, I would recommend a GPS unit that has a GPS compass and an autohelm that connects to it. I think that it is better (and probably cheaper) to have an autohelm that just will steer a certain bearing and to have someone monitor it at all times
Great update thanks Alex, just to note, the fire blanket you have for the stove is in a location where if the stove is actually on fire you will have to reach too close to get the blanket so the same space on the port side or next to the helm is the safest spot to any fire equipment, (as the entry/exit point is closer if things get out of control.)
Hey just a thought wouldn't you want to leave the griped surface black I can think of 2 good reasons 1 you can very easily distinguish between a grippy surface and the slick gel coat 2 I feel like the extra heat would help prevent ice buildup
#32 add a trolling motor as an emergency backup #33 add reflective tape to the front, rear, sides, and top. #34 add personal satellite tracker. #35 add a spare rudder and adding a spare prop would be better than the cage. seaweed wrapped around your cage will really mess up your trip, plus you have extra steel to fab a new larger one anyway... it never hurts to have rather important spares as well as a writer plane for its replacement posted to the hull, with replacement hardware because your cold hands will end up dropping a few.
That was an very enjoyable overview. It's neat seeing your upgrades along the way. Sort of the same fun i get with the little realizations & improvements after each solo camping excursion.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals That port solar panel that will be coming off: How many watts is it and would you like to sell it? By all means fit a simple Autohelm, like the Raymarine ST2000 tiller pilot. Saves tons of boring steering.
Installing a brain will elevate the personification of Alan to exciting new levels. And be very cool from a technical POV. Looking forward to all the monitoring and management software episodes.
Might consider mounting the anchor outside with a bracket mount attached to the top railing, can keep the anchor rope inside ready to use with quick connect hardware!
When you are doing things on the cheap for anti-slip coatings you can simply use 2 pack Epoxy paint & course washed sand with the first & second coat of paint while still wet then followed up by a third finishing coat without sand. The best solution would be to put overlapped X's that are as wide as the walkway with a small gap maybe 1cm between each X forward & back until all the walkway is covered.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals You can sprinkle sugar on the paint, when it dries wash it down, and the sugar dissolves & disappears leaving a nice pitted non-slip surface
The engine compartment fan you showed will not vent the engine compartment when the engine is running if the air intake for the engine is from within the engine compartment. A Typical 32bhp 2cyl diesel enclosed lifeboat engine (BUCH DV 32 RME) is effectively a positive displacement pump that consumes 2140 l/min of air from the intake, through the engine and out the exhaust. I've done several lots of training in lifeboats like Alan and they always stress that people should be strapped in using the seat-belts at all times to ensure the COG stays low and the righting moment is maintained. One of the training courses was in Singapore, the heat, humidity, lack of ventilation and noise from the engine made the interior unbearable, hatches were opened, people hanging out of them desperate for fresh air, the wake from a passing ferry had us rolling so much that we took green water in through the side hatch and lumbered along on our side for a good while until everyone was back inside and strapped in. Make sure everything is mounted securely enough that it can withstand being inverted. Loose items (especially heavy ones, like people or steel ballast bars) breaking free of their mountings in heavy seas are potentially lethal to the boat occupants and can also prevent a lifeboat from self righting. You don't want that.
I used to test these a couple of years ago for the royal navy, we used to see what could be mounted on top in regards to equipment, we used to keep loading things on to the top, eg lights antenna mast storage etc, o see what interrupted the self righting I can guarantee that this vessel will not self right with 2 specific things you have on top, if you want a free report on your vessel, let me know.
No probs alex always willing to help, yep I can say them in the comments, the main one is your chimney, its orientation means hen the boat is inerter, it will act like a leeboard or keel. It needs to be going across the boat, I mean the 2 outlets need to be port and starboard, also if you put anything high up on your mast keep it off of the keel line orientation and let it be fixed port and starboard, think of the boat upside, the keel stops a boat rolling but if you turned the keel to go across the boat, it would roll very easy, also if you want I've got loads of boat bits you are welcome to for free. I'll post them, my contribution, regards. And keep up the most excellent work.
Thanks for the additional info. Understood that anything mounted on the deck will resist self righting. I have to balance function vs installations. For example, the heater cowl is at the angle that minimises exposure. If perpendicular to the direction of travel, it would need to be a foot taller, and I think that would increase water resistance. Anyhow, food for thought on how deck mounted items may inhibit self-righting. Thanks.
If you are planning to use more Deutsch connectors it would be worth investing in a Deutsch specific crimping tool for the terminals. Would make a much more durable job than the tool you used in an earlier episode!! Expensive, but worth it when you are at sea and far from spares.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals after tweeking my initial order (which was wrong due to shipping costs as you or you team mailed to me the 13th og january) i ordered a New one. While i cant find any email, 24 gbp were drawn from my bank account on the 16th
Ah, yes that was sent on the 14th. I'll email you with tracking. It's a lottery as to whether customs charge extra in your country, but be on the lookout for a note in your mail from DPD or a local postal service.
The more I think about it, the more I think you won't need to use the coolant loop on the hull in cold conditions. A radiator inside the hull will probably do a fine job keeping the engine at a proper temperature.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals absolutely. Just consider the size of your average car radio and how they're 150-300 horsepower, and that Alan's engine is 45 horsepower. I genuinely think that a moderate size radiator with a moderate speed fan will put off a nice pleasant warm breeze. Valves to enable the underwater loop for warm water testing will still be helpful, though.
Anti-slip on good old arctic trawlers, are made by good thick paint and sand of chosen size, thrown out on the paint while painting. You can simply choose with the chosen density of the sand, what grip you want and how much you throw out on deck with your hand, when you roll out the paint. I don't see any pre-made paint with anti-slip features beat that solution.
Nowadays there are much more durable and grippy materials available. Coming from downhill skateboarding, there has been tremendous progress for grip tape and other anti-slip materials in the last few decades. One secret we did find out in the process though, nothing beats an industrial 40 grit sanding belt for both grip and durability.
Although Alan's design is nearing perfection, he really does lack space for that at the bow. And an external bow mount would be rather like a declaration of war.
Hi Alex. Great to see the progress in Alan. Just a thought R.E solor panels. If you turned the panel from horizontal to vertical would that do? Would save on cost.
I think to be a whole and complete Alan needs a heated rotating clear view screen/rotating pothole/spin window/rotating windscreen wiper on his helm. I'm sure he'd be jolly proud of same.
@Alex Hibbert Originals Before I posted that comment I took the liberty of checking out prices. Ex China a good new one can be had for circa USD$500. Brand name Western iterations are getting on for 4 to 7x that. The one I liked on Alibaba was Hammertone green in colour (suitably utilitarian and masculine) and was $500. I'm not sure it was heated - I'm faily sure you'll want that. Search was "marine clear view window."
There is only one small part of the world (off the coasts of Spain, Portugal and Gibraltar) where some juvenile orcas have learned that rudders make fun chew-toys. In the Arctic, it's not a problem. Also, Alan's rudder is solid steel. The rudders that have been damaged in attacks are basically just foam covered in plastic (fibreglass). If an orca attacked Alan's rudder, all that's going to happen is that it will break some teeth.
@@tikunshana784 - My understanding is that yes, they do have migration routes. Nevertheless, the ONLY place such reports are coming from, is that one part of the world. Maybe they're outgrowing their bad behaviour as they move away?
Would it be better to use stainless steel flat bars around the shroud that directs the water inwards into the propeller with gaps that block ice from entering as the stainless mesh might not be strong enough?
Regarding autohelms. I recommend you go a lot bigger than the recommended specification for your setup. Autohelms (especially tiller pilots) are notorious for failing, and the main reason is they tend to regularly get pushed to the limits of the forces they can deliver (and the wave forces they can resist). This shortens their lifespan. So ideally, it pays to go for one considerably beefier than manufacturers recommend. Alternatively, it's possible to have the autohelm control a trim-tab fitted to the trailing edge of the rudder, which involves much smaller forces, enabling a smaller unit to be employed. However, a trim-tab setup (particularly for a vessel like Alan) is likely to be rather more complex (and time-consuming) to install. Something else you may wish to consider is about your night-vision preserving lighting. Militaries the world over have moved away from red light, to green. It is almost as good as red light, but allows for better distinguishing of details, and better recognition of colours that are difficult to see under red light. This has obvious benefits for looking at instruments, navigation charts, etc. But whatever colour you use, it's important that you can dim it to the weakest brightness you can work with.
A note regarding Coppercoat. A good number of people have had issues with their coppercoat applications. In every case, their problems have boiled down to not following the manufacturer's application instructions *to the letter.* Even some so-called "trained, experienced professionals" have buggered things up. So DO NOT DEVIATE from the application instructions AT ALL. Especially regarding temperature and humidity. If possible, have the application done by someone with a lot of experience working with Coppercoat.
It's a tight schedule for sure, but the guy is determined so he will make it work even if the job is half finished, not everything is essential. But please please, cover the poop station with a curtain.
dont know if anyone has mentioned it but the diesel heater fuel pump is going to be loud. to the point where some van lifers couldn't sleep. so might want to think about noise cancelation.
Please don't do copper coat there is new regulations on the way(first in Denmark but Wil probably extend to eu soon) that will esentaily ban copper antifouling, to the point that you might not be allowed into Port. From my contacts in the marine coating industry it seems like the best option presently is super smooth silicon paints. Hempel has some products but I don't know if it is available to private individuals.
Are you referring to ablative copper anti-foul, or the epoxy based CopperCoat? SilicOne is available, but has a number of drawbacks, not least abrasion resistance.
Yet another observation on dealing with ice in the top 3 feet of the sea water. By all means defend the propellor from large lumps but also think about the fragility of the rudder. This needs additional protection. I suspect that the design brief for life boats is to provide shelter for lots of people. The functional design life might be based on simply rounding up people in the water and closing on other life boats and generally awaiting the arrival of a rescue ship. Extreme passage making especially in ice may never have been included in the design brief for the boat hence the need for a clean sheet to reassess the functionality of the underwater elements in the presence of ice.
A script and a plan would stop wandering conversation, keep on point. Lots of Oh and blah blah blah. Without modification a standard alternator cannot charge lithium Iron Phosphate batteries, the alternator overheats and dies. Go see your local Victron rep and ask what mods are required for the alternator.
What a strange tone. This episode was a change from my normal format and the like ratio is 99.8%. And I have the correct battery - alternator interface.
🤔not very cosy ! Other than bog and heater any comforts? Bed? Seating? And no I haven't watched from the beginning but you need at least 1 really comfortable place!🤷
![Refleks diesel heater progress and burn testing fibreglass. Lifeboat Conversion Ep68 [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ojGXya3SLHY/mqdefault.jpg)
![Refleks diesel heater progress and burn testing fibreglass. Lifeboat Conversion Ep68 [4K]](/img/tr.png)
From someone that lives in the Arctic and boats here you do not need to put mesh around your prop. If you get into ice that's going to contact your prop you have much bigger problems. All its going to do is increase your fuel consumption and create problems with cavitation and possible blockages with debris (that will have to be cleared by getting in the water).
he wont listen
Do you operate around pack ice? I consulted pros on this, and the mesh was seen as the front runner of a number of designs. Around pack ice, small chunks of ice often travel under the boat - too large to float by on the surface but large enough to get wedged.
I also have a concern about the mesh. No pack ice experience, but when rivers freeze here in Canada we can get something called frazzle ice. It creates ice jams and flooding. If you ran into small ice chunks that could pack together, you may block the prop. Just a thought.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals When I have to, I do, by have to I mean saving someones life. Pack Ice is very dangerous for small boats especially fiberglass hulls. There's a couple things to think about. 1) ice floats and moves, how deep is your prop under the water line. Do you want to be in ice that's thick enough yo make it to your prop? How much ice can your boat push thru. 2) There's already a Keel and a shrod protecting your prop from strikes. 3) The biggest thing to lookout for is massive pieces of ice just under the surface that you can not see. The shroud and keel will keep the prop safe. I always have a spare prop on the boat. PM me if you want to chat about my qualifications, I'd be more than happy to chat with you about my experiences.
😭 lives in the Arctic or survives, barely, in the Arctic?
Yes to the autopilot if you can swing it. If you're planning to motor for hours or days at a stretch it will greatly reduce your cognitive load and fatigue. With wave action, motor torque and other imbalances you won't be able to just lock the helm for very long. For Alan even a basic (cheap) sailboat style tillerpilot that connects to your GPS might be enough. Be wary of anything that uses a magnetic compass if you're going to high latitudes (as I'm sure you're well aware).
As someone who has sailed on a commercial ship, I would recommend a GPS unit that has a GPS compass and an autohelm that connects to it. I think that it is better (and probably cheaper) to have an autohelm that just will steer a certain bearing and to have someone monitor it at all times
HOORAY FOR A LONGER VIDEO. I haven’t even watched it and I already LOVE it.
Once done, that boat is gonna feel like the apollo space capsule. Filled to the brim, a snug home, and capable.
Wood panelling is definitely not Alan's style!
Great update thanks Alex, just to note, the fire blanket you have for the stove is in a location where if the stove is actually on fire you will have to reach too close to get the blanket so the same space on the port side or next to the helm is the safest spot to any fire equipment, (as the entry/exit point is closer if things get out of control.)
he will not listen
We'll certainly have more than one - including multiple fire extinguishers.
Thanks again friend. You’ve kept the dream alive for us all.
I watched your videos about a year then I lost your channel glad I found it again and to see all the new changes made
Welcome back chap
Hey just a thought wouldn't you want to leave the griped surface black I can think of 2 good reasons 1 you can very easily distinguish between a grippy surface and the slick gel coat 2 I feel like the extra heat would help prevent ice buildup
#32 add a trolling motor as an emergency backup #33 add reflective tape to the front, rear, sides, and top. #34 add personal satellite tracker. #35 add a spare rudder and adding a spare prop would be better than the cage. seaweed wrapped around your cage will really mess up your trip, plus you have extra steel to fab a new larger one anyway... it never hurts to have rather important spares as well as a writer plane for its replacement posted to the hull, with replacement hardware because your cold hands will end up dropping a few.
Some of those are on the auxiliary list. It could have been an hour long tour video😂
Thanks for the overview and current status of the works.
Alex I'm so impressed with the amount of vision and work that you do, keep up the pace!
Cheers Kevin. I keep trucking onwards.
That was an very enjoyable overview. It's neat seeing your upgrades along the way. Sort of the same fun i get with the little realizations & improvements after each solo camping excursion.
Cheers
Great to see the updates.
Wonderfully detailed
Love to see Alan’s progress!
Cheers
@@AlexHibbertOriginals That port solar panel that will be coming off: How many watts is it and would you like to sell it? By all means fit a simple Autohelm, like the Raymarine ST2000 tiller pilot. Saves tons of boring steering.
Thanks for the walk around, you’re doing an impressive job. It must be exciting for you to see your own progress. Thanks for the content, be well.
Very kind
Installing a brain will elevate the personification of Alan to exciting new levels. And be very cool from a technical POV. Looking forward to all the monitoring and management software episodes.
Careful what we sow, that we cannot unsow.
A lot of info in this video, Loved it!
Good lord, that’s one hell of a list!
Man, what a list. However, the end of the beginning seems to be insight.
Have you got a radar reflector for the mast? Would probably be a good addition to aid long range visibility.
I have one on order 👍
Might consider mounting the anchor outside with a bracket mount attached to the top railing, can keep the anchor rope inside ready to use with quick connect hardware!
Great tupdate Alex, thanks! Looking forward to seeing all of these come together.
Cheers
Was looking forward to seeing where the sleeping accommodations would go.
The bunk clips in on the starboard side of the racking. Will show you in due course.
I hope there’s a spare hammock stowed away for when us fans get an invite for a night cruise, for a modest fee.
When you are doing things on the cheap for anti-slip coatings you can simply use 2 pack Epoxy paint & course washed sand with the first & second coat of paint while still wet then followed up by a third finishing coat without sand. The best solution would be to put overlapped X's that are as wide as the walkway with a small gap maybe 1cm between each X forward & back until all the walkway is covered.
Certainly a good option. The grit I used was expensive.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Ultimately it will be up to you & your requirements.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals You can sprinkle sugar on the paint, when it dries wash it down, and the sugar dissolves & disappears leaving a nice pitted non-slip surface
For autohelm, have a look at ardupilot
The engine compartment fan you showed will not vent the engine compartment when the engine is running if the air intake for the engine is from within the engine compartment. A Typical 32bhp 2cyl diesel enclosed lifeboat engine (BUCH DV 32 RME) is effectively a positive displacement pump that consumes 2140 l/min of air from the intake, through the engine and out the exhaust.
I've done several lots of training in lifeboats like Alan and they always stress that people should be strapped in using the seat-belts at all times to ensure the COG stays low and the righting moment is maintained. One of the training courses was in Singapore, the heat, humidity, lack of ventilation and noise from the engine made the interior unbearable, hatches were opened, people hanging out of them desperate for fresh air, the wake from a passing ferry had us rolling so much that we took green water in through the side hatch and lumbered along on our side for a good while until everyone was back inside and strapped in. Make sure everything is mounted securely enough that it can withstand being inverted. Loose items (especially heavy ones, like people or steel ballast bars) breaking free of their mountings in heavy seas are potentially lethal to the boat occupants and can also prevent a lifeboat from self righting. You don't want that.
Thanks for taking the time to type that up. Appreciated. There's a recent episode on air intake for the engine. Air is being fed from outside the bay.
If you hit ruff seas or even some chop its going to be not fun with the hull and keel. Are you going to do some smaller crossing to test it?
The sea trials and bilge keel plan not sufficient?
I used to test these a couple of years ago for the royal navy, we used to see what could be mounted on top in regards to equipment, we used to keep loading things on to the top, eg lights antenna mast storage etc, o see what interrupted the self righting I can guarantee that this vessel will not self right with 2 specific things you have on top, if you want a free report on your vessel, let me know.
A shame you can't mention these two items in your comment, but any feedback would be appreciated via email / my website.
No probs alex always willing to help, yep I can say them in the comments, the main one is your chimney, its orientation means hen the boat is inerter, it will act like a leeboard or keel. It needs to be going across the boat, I mean the 2 outlets need to be port and starboard, also if you put anything high up on your mast keep it off of the keel line orientation and let it be fixed port and starboard, think of the boat upside, the keel stops a boat rolling but if you turned the keel to go across the boat, it would roll very easy, also if you want I've got loads of boat bits you are welcome to for free. I'll post them, my contribution, regards. And keep up the most excellent work.
Thanks for the additional info. Understood that anything mounted on the deck will resist self righting. I have to balance function vs installations. For example, the heater cowl is at the angle that minimises exposure. If perpendicular to the direction of travel, it would need to be a foot taller, and I think that would increase water resistance. Anyhow, food for thought on how deck mounted items may inhibit self-righting. Thanks.
Have a good but safe trip,
How kind
Hopefully you can post a video or two from your Alaska trip
Side keels well be enormous help with the eventual tractor kite. Then it will be +-45 degrees steerable, not just downwind.
If you are planning to use more Deutsch connectors it would be worth investing in a Deutsch specific crimping tool for the terminals. Would make a much more durable job than the tool you used in an earlier episode!! Expensive, but worth it when you are at sea and far from spares.
Ha! I have a smart new hex crimper.
I have finally bought a cap, I hope it arrive soon! I will look forward to fix my own mechanics with an official piece of Alan merchandise
Hi hi. When did you order? I'm in Canada now and I didn't see a gag order just before I flew. Could you email via my website so I can check?
@@AlexHibbertOriginals after tweeking my initial order (which was wrong due to shipping costs as you or you team mailed to me the 13th og january) i ordered a New one. While i cant find any email, 24 gbp were drawn from my bank account on the 16th
Ah, yes that was sent on the 14th. I'll email you with tracking. It's a lottery as to whether customs charge extra in your country, but be on the lookout for a note in your mail from DPD or a local postal service.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Thank you very much!
@@AlexHibbertOriginals it arrived! Thank YOU!
The more I think about it, the more I think you won't need to use the coolant loop on the hull in cold conditions. A radiator inside the hull will probably do a fine job keeping the engine at a proper temperature.
That, and a back up diesel stove.
If it gets dangerously cold in an emergency, we can open the engine cowling hatch and let hot air out. Noisy though.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals absolutely. Just consider the size of your average car radio and how they're 150-300 horsepower, and that Alan's engine is 45 horsepower. I genuinely think that a moderate size radiator with a moderate speed fan will put off a nice pleasant warm breeze. Valves to enable the underwater loop for warm water testing will still be helpful, though.
Anti-slip on good old arctic trawlers, are made by good thick paint and sand of chosen size, thrown out on the paint while painting. You can simply choose with the chosen density of the sand, what grip you want and how much you throw out on deck with your hand, when you roll out the paint. I don't see any pre-made paint with anti-slip features beat that solution.
Mine wasn't premixed - I was just stingy with the granules.
Nowadays there are much more durable and grippy materials available. Coming from downhill skateboarding, there has been tremendous progress for grip tape and other anti-slip materials in the last few decades. One secret we did find out in the process though, nothing beats an industrial 40 grit sanding belt for both grip and durability.
You might want to think about some sort of anchor locker outside of the main cabin to not bring all the water and mud inside like on sailboats
Although Alan's design is nearing perfection, he really does lack space for that at the bow. And an external bow mount would be rather like a declaration of war.
I didn't see a bunk anywhere. Will sleeping not be part of the plan?
Alan does not tolerate sleep. He considers it to be weak.
Woo, just in time.
Something I've wondered about watching this series is what will happen to Alan once his mission is complete?
I don't think there is one specific "mission" - but rather many possibilities into the future.
Indeed - a few earlier episodes on this.
Hi Alex. Great to see the progress in Alan. Just a thought R.E solor panels. If you turned the panel from horizontal to vertical would that do? Would save on cost.
They end up too low, where we'll have fenders.
I think to be a whole and complete Alan needs a heated rotating clear view screen/rotating pothole/spin window/rotating windscreen wiper on his helm. I'm sure he'd be jolly proud of same.
Well that does sound like fun.
@Alex Hibbert Originals Before I posted that comment I took the liberty of checking out prices.
Ex China a good new one can be had for circa USD$500. Brand name Western iterations are getting on for 4 to 7x that.
The one I liked on Alibaba was Hammertone green in colour (suitably utilitarian and masculine) and was $500. I'm not sure it was heated - I'm faily sure you'll want that.
Search was "marine clear view window."
Once up in the Arctic, would you be able to scuba dive in case some Orcas decide to play with your rudder?
There is only one small part of the world (off the coasts of Spain, Portugal and Gibraltar) where some juvenile orcas have learned that rudders make fun chew-toys. In the Arctic, it's not a problem. Also, Alan's rudder is solid steel. The rudders that have been damaged in attacks are basically just foam covered in plastic (fibreglass). If an orca attacked Alan's rudder, all that's going to happen is that it will break some teeth.
@@Garryck-1 Do these Orcas now how to sit nicely? I thought they had migration routes.
@@tikunshana784 - My understanding is that yes, they do have migration routes. Nevertheless, the ONLY place such reports are coming from, is that one part of the world. Maybe they're outgrowing their bad behaviour as they move away?
Cool boat
Are you putting in a big screen tv to watch movies at night... Like, The Abyss...or reruns of Black Adder
Would it be better to use stainless steel flat bars around the shroud that directs the water inwards into the propeller with gaps that block ice from entering as the stainless mesh might not be strong enough?
This was one of the designs we considered. It was shot down by a marine design engineer as likely to affect thrust and steering.
Regarding autohelms. I recommend you go a lot bigger than the recommended specification for your setup. Autohelms (especially tiller pilots) are notorious for failing, and the main reason is they tend to regularly get pushed to the limits of the forces they can deliver (and the wave forces they can resist). This shortens their lifespan. So ideally, it pays to go for one considerably beefier than manufacturers recommend. Alternatively, it's possible to have the autohelm control a trim-tab fitted to the trailing edge of the rudder, which involves much smaller forces, enabling a smaller unit to be employed. However, a trim-tab setup (particularly for a vessel like Alan) is likely to be rather more complex (and time-consuming) to install.
Something else you may wish to consider is about your night-vision preserving lighting. Militaries the world over have moved away from red light, to green. It is almost as good as red light, but allows for better distinguishing of details, and better recognition of colours that are difficult to see under red light. This has obvious benefits for looking at instruments, navigation charts, etc. But whatever colour you use, it's important that you can dim it to the weakest brightness you can work with.
Thanks also
I would make the cooling line bumpers out of rubber. Rubber bumpers will absorb millions of blows
What ever it is, it seems to me they would have to stand up to really hard hits and constant abuse on some days.
Yeah like the rubber bumpers they make out of recycled tires. The ones used in loading docks stop trucks
dose Alan have or will he have a tilt gauge installed. i know it night be a bit useless but it has its uses
Alan lets us know when he's tilting.
A note regarding Coppercoat. A good number of people have had issues with their coppercoat applications. In every case, their problems have boiled down to not following the manufacturer's application instructions *to the letter.* Even some so-called "trained, experienced professionals" have buggered things up. So DO NOT DEVIATE from the application instructions AT ALL. Especially regarding temperature and humidity. If possible, have the application done by someone with a lot of experience working with Coppercoat.
Thanks
You should probably keep the top black to cut down on glare.
Good point well made
Applying CORROSIONX on all electrics (and electronics) that are going to be subject to a marine environment is definitively reccomendable
Impressive looking stuff
No pressure then.
It's a tight schedule for sure, but the guy is determined so he will make it work even if the job is half finished, not everything is essential. But please please, cover the poop station with a curtain.
Some jobs can be done whilst heading up the UK coast - the non-safety bits and bobs.
copper coat and ultrasonic is definitely the most cost effective...
greetings from not not ontop of alan
dont know if anyone has mentioned it but the diesel heater fuel pump is going to be loud. to the point where some van lifers couldn't sleep. so might want to think about noise cancelation.
There's no pump in a Refleks
bueno
Please don't do copper coat there is new regulations on the way(first in Denmark but Wil probably extend to eu soon) that will esentaily ban copper antifouling, to the point that you might not be allowed into Port. From my contacts in the marine coating industry it seems like the best option presently is super smooth silicon paints. Hempel has some products but I don't know if it is available to private individuals.
Are you referring to ablative copper anti-foul, or the epoxy based CopperCoat? SilicOne is available, but has a number of drawbacks, not least abrasion resistance.
Why not just take the solar panel and turn it 90 degrees...
Will be where the fenders will hang.
First thing I did after the video is search for this comment. Thank you both.
Use Hempel sic1 anti foul brilliant products
Silic1
how comes there's no videos, we need you
I've been in the Arctic. Flying home today. Will be on it like a video-making machine on performance enhancing medication.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Amazing, can't wait
Yet another observation on dealing with ice in the top 3 feet of the sea water. By all means defend the propellor from large lumps but also think about the fragility of the rudder. This needs additional protection.
I suspect that the design brief for life boats is to provide shelter for lots of people. The functional design life might be based on simply rounding up people in the water and closing on other life boats and generally awaiting the arrival of a rescue ship. Extreme passage making especially in ice may never have been included in the design brief for the boat hence the need for a clean sheet to reassess the functionality of the underwater elements in the presence of ice.
Thanks. Yes a lot of factors to consider. A few of us are going through the latest US mil report on brash ice and prop design.
✌🙂✌
Ty youtub.
5 day late 😪
A script and a plan would stop wandering conversation, keep on point. Lots of Oh and blah blah blah. Without modification a standard alternator cannot charge lithium Iron Phosphate batteries, the alternator overheats and dies. Go see your local Victron rep and ask what mods are required for the alternator.
What a strange tone. This episode was a change from my normal format and the like ratio is 99.8%. And I have the correct battery - alternator interface.
🤔not very cosy !
Other than bog and heater any comforts? Bed? Seating? And no I haven't watched from the beginning but you need at least 1 really comfortable place!🤷
All the seating areas will have removable cushions and back rests.
Do you need your appearance, from the air for example, to be identified as non emergency lifeboat?
Alan will lack the crosses and codes seen from above as an indication of an in-commission TELB.
1st ish
Exhaust baffle.
Next video please Alex. 4 Alan free weeks is too long
I'm having withdrawal symptoms too. Back on it soon.
Excellent news. Monday morning commutes made easier.
What … no gratuitous grinding?
None whatsoever.
1st
So disappointed!! Where is the wit and comedy charm? So disappointed. Better not poke fun at me for saying this! Blah Blah Blah. 😂❤
But seriously really enjoy your content. Wish I could help out money wise unfortunately cannot. Always a pleasure watching your videos 👍❤️
I must have had a serious Sunday!
Fantastic video were you using a Insta360 ONEX? I love mine but it’s old and I need a new one
A DJI Action 2.