I have been using grips on SWA for 25 years and now from this video and some comments i find out i have been doing it all wrong all this time, seems i might scratch or dent the soft brass or get a splinter. Doh
On some jobs like crossrail, if they see a mark on the gland or piranha nut, its coming off and getting redone. So you only use toothless grips or adjustables. But for everything else, always grips
and them 25 years ago probs still work once tightening a brass nut isnt gonna do no damage ive never heard so much crap in my life look at what the "new" "correct" way gets u (from other installs) - flimsy cheap switches and conduits what disintegrate or cause a problem within the first year or 2, being picky is okay ish but scraping the barrel is just a headache :)
an abrasive surface left behind could create a spark if it was to come in to contact with another type of metal in certain environments could be very dangerous????
Second year apprentice in the us and I admire your workmanship and knowledge of the trade. Very enjoyable watching and learning even if your methods are a little different than my commercial experience
I'm a sparky working a lot in street lighting and I've always been taught to use two sets of grips to tighten a gland up, how else would you do it? And a little handy tip I've found if you get a decent steel conduit cutter I got a rothenburger one like plumbers use to cut copper pipe ( just make sure it can cut steel) and use it to score the armoured strands on the swa takes half the time and a perfectly square cut every time 🤙. Great vlog as always, really enjoy your content keep it up
As a Yankee from across the big pond,I find your post very interesting. As a very junior sparky, enough to do a socket/recital or simple light.We use 110 volt 60 hz. and big fuse boxes. My house has 220 volts,60 hz. 200 amp.coming in with 40 circuits.I try and figure out what and how you do things.Please keep sharing. If I can get a picture to load I will send it.Thanks,Carl Tullahoma, Tennessee.
Brilliant video thank helped me a lot I have a question tho..... I want to put up an outdoor spot light for my drive but there is no existing light on the out side or any power on the out side What should I do in side I have a plug socket and a light switch could I connect to that ?
The lock nut goes on teeth down if you attach the gland to the box first, teeth up if you fit to the swa first. It's in the instructions on the packet. Also I was always taught to banjo at the start not at the end.
Hi mate, I'm a trainee spark who has just completed his level 2 at college. I've been asked to do a similar outside socket for someone. Can you tell me which drill bit you used to make that hole. Also, am I right to say you actually drilled through the socket back box and through the wall?
For the past 5 years as a domestic spark I’ve used grips but the past year I’ve ventured into heavy industrial work and any scratches to a gland will not pass quality control so I’ve been using adjustable spanner’s and flat jaw grips
Try gland spanners I am a have been doing industrial stuff for. Years glands for 185 cables all the way down to 2.5mm swa gland spanners if used correct are they best way.
Was interested in the conduit between the spur and the socket - and the stuff you pasted on the pipe - but you didn't say a word when you did it. Unusual for you as you normally explain everything very well.
Hi mate. So to clarify you broke into the ring main? Didn’t see what you did internally. I was doing this today, broke into my ring main (double socket) and extended to a fused spur (5AMP). The load then goes into a smart switch. From the smart switch there a cable running through the wall (used a metre drill) into a whiskey box and have two LED spots. There are hard wired so no armoured. I am planning to run 1.5 armour cable from the whisky box in and SWA to a third outside light, bollard light. So from my ring main I have added potential 3 LED exterior smart lights. Sorry for the ramble but your video appears to back up my process was sound?
Do those Schneider joint boxes need a tool to open them? Only ever tried the larger ones that had screws. I'd have earthed the armour at its source for reliability. Two parallel earth conductors wouldn't be my aim but wouldn't do any harm, it would have lowered the Zs slightly. Lots of the time it's impractical to test the rcd on a split load board, you just don't know if they have an iMac upstairs that's permanently on or the burglar alarm they've left off for the day is going to get upset.
This is the type of work I love doing as an electrician, domestic work I love, commercial and industrial is more physically demanding but it's ok. Just the appreciation of going into someones home and making it better and just getting offered a cuppa tea or coffee by the client is nice!
I have watched a few of your video's but this ones made me subscribe. I have OCD when it comes to waterproofing outside electrical equipment (over a decade working with submersibles). First video I've seen with the IP rated sockets/spurs fitted correctly with a chance of not letting water in . I say chance as there designed to allow some water in. I've seen water ingress through the factory fitted knock outs on the top surface so your fighting a losing battle. A question I would like to ask is it common practice in a domestic setting to do top entry on outside fittings as I see a lot of these but in the water industry and other industrial environments top entry is a big no no due to it increasing the chance of water ingress? Also something that may help others is that I have experienced over time that sockets, junction boxes etc outside resist condensation better if they can be placed so they see the sun at one point of the day. Sorry to waffle top vid and look forward to more.
@CJR ELECTRICAL Hello can you bring 2 ceiling lights off one 3amp fused spur. Both lights have their own switches. Also what amp fuse did you use on your first switched spur Thanks
When I started out I bought a set of grips especially for swa, never met anyone that dosent use them. I personally use one set grips and a large adjustable (or correct spanner if doing several). No one has ever complained. If people are dogging them up enough to splinter they are doing it wrong. Grips to hold, spanner to tighten. That's my way If I had 2 sets of grips in front of me and the spanner was all the way in the van with one gland to make off would I use them. I think you can guess the answer to that 😉
what in the hell did i just watch? Im from Cincinnati, OH, USA. incredibly different, every single aspect of the material, styling, etc. i like how your WP material looks so much more that here. I gather we do the exact same thing for a living but the only similarity I think was the silicone. We use that here too!! At least now i know why i get light fixtures sometimes that have a bare/blue/brown cable instead of bare/black/white.
I haven’t got a shed, I want a outdoor light with a switch indoors because there’s no adequate place for a switch outside. I know i’ll have to spur off a socket but can’t really find one where it’s just a simple drilling through a wall job - more of a chasing job. What is your thought process when finding like an existing source to come off? Thank you, I’m aiming to be an electrician in the future so just trying to get advice. Any recommendations?
Great video, a question if I may, the schneider box for the outside light, dose this box have to be accessible! or can it be enclosed in a loft space, I take it the black wire is from the outside light in your video! in my case because the schneider box will be enclosed in a loft space (inaccessible) I need to link to the future outside light (undecided) would a twin and earth cable be suitable for the outside light/schneider box link or if not allowable what is the correct cable to connect to the light fixture to the schneider box.... Thank you Mark
Yes it does, as soon as you do that you lose the IP rating as per the instructions ;) If moisture is getting in you have a problem and when using conduit ensure its outdoor rated to the correct spec. You see too many people using indoor pvc conduit and glands outdoors.
How much would somthing like this cost but on my side enterance pathway ? I have mains sockets behind the wall so access to power should not be an issue? Cheers
Just moved into a property , has outside sockets in garden in a ip65 junction box , the only problem is they’ve drilled holes in the junction box & not used waterproof glands ! Full of water & tripping 🙈
The conduit adaptors you use to connect the outdoor socket to the FCU would these not compromise the IP rating of the boxes as they do not have rubber seals?. I have used the same adaptors for indoor connections ( garage ), but wondered if ok for outdoor use.
Good video mate I’m getting taught SWA using grips. Can you do a video of any handy tricks of the trade. Be good to see from an apprentice point of view 👍
I’m with you on glanding the armoured with adjustable’s, I was always taught that way in my apprenticeship, but the argument people make is that you should use spanner’s as the adjustable’s can damage the heads of the nuts on the glands etc 🤔
G Man yes with spanner’s you can get better grip whereas with grips and adjustable you can damage the rigs as they tend to open when using and grips have teeths. The spanner is straight and tough.
"Fuse Spur" = sub panel in USA/CA. The concept of the dual ring main system is mind blowing to me here across the pond. I guess at least you have RCDs on everything, here now they need AFCI/AFDD s in all habitabile areas, in canada at least.
I’ve been an electrician in the US since 1989 and I subscribed because your work ethic is awesome and I’m always amazed how different our wiring methods and equipment differ. 👍
When you already hump half a ton of tools up several floors because no trades men are allowed to use the lift, what your gonna say is damn I'm gonna have to go back down for my spanners because all I got is adjustable grips 🤔
Clipped direct on a double insulated cable is a perfectly adequate installation method I didn’t install that in conduit because it would have clashed with the sliding doors( I did say this in the video)
I didn’t believe this so I checked :-) BS7671:522.6.2 (i) assuming that it’s medium severity (AG2 - IEC 62262 IK=07) then PVC Flat (6241Y, 6242Y, 6243Y to BS6004) is as you say, suitable to be installed in this method. :-)
It's suitable but I don't like. I'd also not spur off a socket but to a dedicated rcbo. Different building, different circuit. No way of killing power to shed.
FYI. Read the instructions that comes with any IP66 outdoors plug, as soon as you drill that little DRAIN hole, your IP66 weatherproof is no longer IP66. Read it, it voids it, as moisture can actually get in as well as condensation :)
Great video,one of the best i have watched on youtube,short but very instructive.What would your cable size be coming initially from the inside socket,2.5 , I am in the process of doing some landscaping in my garden with lighting, I was going to take the SWA from a new consumer unit, which someone was doing for me,but this seems to be a lot easier and i can do this on my own, i was scared the socket the cable is coming from inside the kitched would be overloaded, There would also be ground lighting scattered around with other cables,take it i would use more spurs from other sockets from ground lights to protect any shorting.??
Question... are those plastic couplers ip rated? Did this before and the outdoor switch I installed filled with water and got rotten with rust... ended up installing a new switch but used a PG gland instead of the plastic coupler.
Ya but water can still get in right? Is there any difference in the male or female coupler and lock ring?🤔 I'm wiring a kennel at the moment where they will be power washing everything down... pg glands all over the switches will look gammy... your method is neater if it was water tight?
Most industrial sites these day specify not to fit cable shrouds as they tend to trap moisture in glands. The gland should have suitable IP rating for the application without.
Just a quick question hopefully someone can answer. You’ve come off the socket inside and installed a switched fuse spur. Then you installed one in the shed. Is this allowed?
What conduit are you using to connect the fuse box to outside socket? Im looking to do this exact setup but cant seam to find the right tube for the wires to pass through
Just to add to other comments, I worked on water sites where glands had to be replaced due to them being chewed by grips, we had to use adjustable spanners. I used grips before that like everyone else, now I stick to adjustables so there's never any comebacks. Guess it depends on the spec of the job, some places are seriously fussy.
The woman needs to get a grip of that cleaner, if you weren't there she'd be sitting with her feet up supping coffee and reading Hello Magazine. I was fully expecting you to find Catweazel living in that shed!
I love Electricfix, Just do click & collect and by the time you get there they have it all ready in a basket, in and out in two minutes or less. Even if the branch doesn't have a click and collect counter, just shout out collection and they will serve you before the rest of the queue!
Do you email quote requests? They have trade offers that you only get on batch jobs. If you buy a DB and accessories they give you the wire for next to feck all 👍🏼
You've tightened the piranha nut incorrectly. The gland should be tightened by holding the piranha nut whilst tightening the gland from the outside. That way the brass teeth cut through any paint and make a firm contact with the steel (or plastic) surface. By tightning the gland using the nut as you suggest, you will round off the brass teeth if a steel box or gouge the material if a plastic box. Either way you end up with a scruffy job..
I thought a shed is outside the equipotential zone and you would have to break the earth connection from house and sink an earth stake. Brilliant invention them earth nuts.
No issues with pump pliers just tend to make a mess of the gland if they slip. All I do is work with swa and my preferred method currently is rotheberger wide thin jaw adjustable, the thin jaws get in all the tight spaces (i recommend them), or I used Cmp swa glands and a set of 24mm spanners. It's when you get an 18" set of stilsons out you start getting strange looks 😉 With regards to your earth nut see the swa Taurus video it shows you how to fit them (1spanner) you screw the gland into the nut not the nut onto the gland so you pull the prongs into the box. I did as you at first and found I had issues with a few later on. Good video and neat work, nice to see someone putting thought into a job
tomorichard Thompson factually not true chief, eletricfix wiped the floor with the local wholesalers for consumer units, especially when they have an offer on. Sure there are some more specialist bits that I have to get from a wholesaler, but otherwise Screwfix is a nice one stop shop. The fact they do other trades as well makes it nice and easy.
Great if I want to know how to put boxes up but no good if I want to see how the wirings done just take a photo when you’ve done the job and I would learn as much as I did here.
Robert Clyne This isn’t a how-to channel though. I’m not gonna be one of those people that say ‘if you don’t know how to, hire an electrician’ but seriously, this isn’t a DIY how to channel, it’s a vlog channel of a working electrician. And wiring a socket up is BASIC so if you don’t know how to do that then 🤷🏼♂️
My ToolStation is actually pretty good. A guy walked up to the counter and started giving the police profile of the bit he was looking for, the woman stops him mid sentence and says, “have you got number mate? No, then the catalog is over there, come back when you know what you want. Who’s Next!” I nearly gave her a high-five 😂
It's amazing the amount of idiots who go intro Toolstation or Screwfix, go straight up to the counter without even looking at the catalogue, and then waste everyone else's time by entering into a long discussion about what it is they're looking for! They clearly don't get the concept of the catalogue, either that or they lack even the most basic skill of copying down a part number 😒
Or it means the staff at toolstation don’t have a clue themselves and only need you to give them a catalog number because if ask them advice it goes over the heads may aswell work at Argos the same job .
Victoria Gale it means they aren’t clairvoyant. Trying to guess what the hell customers are trying to buy when they don’t have a clue themselves. They are customer service people, not traders with years of training. 99% of the time they try and help, but with a queue of traders waiting who do actually know what they want.... oh and try walking up to an Argos desk on a busy day and describing in piss poor detail what you’re looking for without know what it’s called, what it’s for or how it works and see how overjoyed they are 😂
@@victoriagale4090 if you don't know what you want You're better off going to B&Q, Homebase, or a local DIY store. Toolstation and Screwfix aren't set up for people who haven't got a clue what they're looking for.
If you sell a product you should have some knowledge in what your selling and if you go to screw fix or toolstation granted you should already know what you want but most of them where I live have a trade counter ,separate room where you don’t get the little old man just asking for advice and expecting the person to be able to help him . If your waiting in the queue at the general open to the public desk your in the wrong place and should expect the general public to be not as savvy it’s going to take longer .
If you drilled the brick with a smaller drill bit and from brick in carefully you wouldn’t have bodged the face of the brick !! Apart from that looking gash good job
Tbh I use a set of bahco adjustables and gland pliers for doing glands, always find you need the plyers as the depth of the flats on the top section of the gland are too thin to use two pairs of adjustables and that's why you end up damaging them. Is it just me that earth's the armouring at both load and supply ends though? Could also put a banjo on the gland inside the plastic outdoor socket with a flying earth to the earth terminal?
I was taught that if your'e using the house earth as the earth for exterior installation then you must. yes. But if you using an earth rod for exterior then you must not. Should the armour of the cable which I'm assuming you are using as the earth conductor on a 2 core become interupted you could find a two different potential difference. hence shock risk. Should you use a 3 core, so a seperate core for earth then one end should suffice no ?
My mentor told me not to use grips as it marks up the gland so we always use adjustable wrenches, we do alot of Ex glands and they have to be perfect no marking at all
![โรงเรียนห้ามรัก โดนจับได้ตาย...!! [เอิร์นไดเม่]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4u02Sbr556Q/mqdefault.jpg)
I have been using grips on SWA for 25 years and now from this video and some comments i find out i have been doing it all wrong all this time, seems i might scratch or dent the soft brass or get a splinter. Doh
On some jobs like crossrail, if they see a mark on the gland or piranha nut, its coming off and getting redone. So you only use toothless grips or adjustables.
But for everything else, always grips
and them 25 years ago probs still work once tightening a brass nut isnt gonna do no damage ive never heard so much crap in my life look at what the "new" "correct" way gets u (from other installs) - flimsy cheap switches and conduits what disintegrate or cause a problem within the first year or 2, being picky is okay ish but scraping the barrel is just a headache :)
Awww damn... seems that we've all been doing it wrong according to the Internet.
Grips are fine, jeeze...anyway back to the real world ;)
an abrasive surface left behind could create a spark if it was to come in to contact with another type of metal in certain environments could be very dangerous????
That burst- out brick caused by the masonry drill would do my head in. It's attention to (avoiding) such calamities that makes for a quality job.
Second year apprentice in the us and I admire your workmanship and knowledge of the trade. Very enjoyable watching and learning even if your methods are a little different than my commercial experience
I like putting the silicone on the back of the box on the top and sides to avoid the silicone marks on the walls. As always good job 👍.
Your armoured cable increased the structural strength of the decking, planters & shed by at least 50%
😂😂😂
I'm a sparky working a lot in street lighting and I've always been taught to use two sets of grips to tighten a gland up, how else would you do it? And a little handy tip I've found if you get a decent steel conduit cutter I got a rothenburger one like plumbers use to cut copper pipe ( just make sure it can cut steel) and use it to score the armoured strands on the swa takes half the time and a perfectly square cut every time 🤙. Great vlog as always, really enjoy your content keep it up
I like your vids, very well explained with lots of detail, I use them as a reference at times thanks for sharing and keep them coming. 👍
Excellent informative video, lovely and neat job. Well done has helped me out a lot for my outside lighting.
As a Yankee from across the big pond,I find your post very interesting. As a very junior sparky, enough to do a socket/recital or simple light.We use 110 volt 60 hz. and big fuse boxes. My house has 220 volts,60 hz. 200 amp.coming in with 40 circuits.I try and figure out what and how you do things.Please keep sharing. If I can get a picture to load I will send it.Thanks,Carl Tullahoma, Tennessee.
Is that kewtech64 any good. Price?
Brilliant video thank helped me a lot
I have a question tho.....
I want to put up an outdoor spot light for my drive but there is no existing light on the out side or any power on the out side
What should I do in side I have a plug socket and a light switch could I connect to that ?
Those wiska earth lock nuts are the dogs bollocks ! Expensive but worth it !
The lock nut goes on teeth down if you attach the gland to the box first, teeth up if you fit to the swa first. It's in the instructions on the packet. Also I was always taught to banjo at the start not at the end.
Hi mate, I'm a trainee spark who has just completed his level 2 at college. I've been asked to do a similar outside socket for someone. Can you tell me which drill bit you used to make that hole. Also, am I right to say you actually drilled through the socket back box and through the wall?
For the past 5 years as a domestic spark I’ve used grips but the past year I’ve ventured into heavy industrial work and any scratches to a gland will not pass quality control so I’ve been using adjustable spanner’s and flat jaw grips
You can get plumbers pliers with plastic jaws, Monument tools is one company that does them. You could easily make your own too.
Try gland spanners I am a have been doing industrial stuff for. Years glands for 185 cables all the way down to 2.5mm swa gland spanners if used correct are they best way.
Hasn't lithium hand tools revolutionised service/repair industries 🛠️👍.
Great video and some good comments too.
Was interested in the conduit between the spur and the socket - and the stuff you pasted on the pipe - but you didn't say a word when you did it. Unusual for you as you normally explain everything very well.
Hi mate. So to clarify you broke into the ring main? Didn’t see what you did internally. I was doing this today, broke into my ring main (double socket) and extended to a fused spur (5AMP).
The load then goes into a smart switch.
From the smart switch there a cable running through the wall (used a metre drill) into a whiskey box and have two LED spots. There are hard wired so no armoured.
I am planning to run 1.5 armour cable from the whisky box in and SWA to a third outside light, bollard light.
So from my ring main I have added potential 3 LED exterior smart lights.
Sorry for the ramble but your video appears to back up my process was sound?
Sounds ok
Spend more on electrics than the cost of shed?
Good job mate done the same today for a garage with the metal clad and conduit 👍
Do those Schneider joint boxes need a tool to open them? Only ever tried the larger ones that had screws. I'd have earthed the armour at its source for reliability. Two parallel earth conductors wouldn't be my aim but wouldn't do any harm, it would have lowered the Zs slightly. Lots of the time it's impractical to test the rcd on a split load board, you just don't know if they have an iMac upstairs that's permanently on or the burglar alarm they've left off for the day is going to get upset.
Great channel came across your channel and I really enjoy it I'm a plumber by trade and nice to see a electrician at work 😊😊
I always keep those ‘knockouts’.
The amount of outside sockets I’ve seen with them missing is considerable. I just replace if I see any missing.
This is the type of work I love doing as an electrician, domestic work I love, commercial and industrial is more physically demanding but it's ok. Just the appreciation of going into someones home and making it better and just getting offered a cuppa tea or coffee by the client is nice!
I have watched a few of your video's but this ones made me subscribe. I have OCD when it comes to waterproofing outside electrical equipment (over a decade working with submersibles). First video I've seen with the IP rated sockets/spurs fitted correctly with a chance of not letting water in . I say chance as there designed to allow some water in. I've seen water ingress through the factory fitted knock outs on the top surface so your fighting a losing battle.
A question I would like to ask is it common practice in a domestic setting to do top entry on outside fittings as I see a lot of these but in the water industry and other industrial environments top entry is a big no no due to it increasing the chance of water ingress?
Also something that may help others is that I have experienced over time that sockets, junction boxes etc outside resist condensation better if they can be placed so they see the sun at one point of the day.
Sorry to waffle top vid and look forward to more.
When I have worked on industrial sites top entry is not allowed. Always bottom entries .
@@dennisphoenix1 Bottom entry, is illegal in many countries.
@@ollydearden depends if its two males or not. but yes bottom entry is illegal in pakistan and india i believe
On some high spec jobs data centres, civils projects like tunnels, You use gland spanners and it's just so the brass doesn't get scored by the grips.
And ATEX certified glands.
@CJR ELECTRICAL Hello can you bring 2 ceiling lights off one 3amp fused spur. Both lights have their own switches. Also what amp fuse did you use on your first switched spur
Thanks
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When I started out I bought a set of grips especially for swa, never met anyone that dosent use them.
I personally use one set grips and a large adjustable (or correct spanner if doing several). No one has ever complained. If people are dogging them up enough to splinter they are doing it wrong. Grips to hold, spanner to tighten. That's my way
If I had 2 sets of grips in front of me and the spanner was all the way in the van with one gland to make off would I use them. I think you can guess the answer to that 😉
Great video! How long did it take you to do this whole job? Thanks.
Great vid. What cable did u use to the outside light ? Can normal flex be used or something like pond cable ??
What stuffing glands did you use for the Schneider boxes? I find a 20mm leaves a gap?
Since stuffing gland wasn't mounted on top horizontal surface, only ip2x and ipxxb applies in the case of the gap your referring too.
Hi would the pvc link pipe between the two box’s on the house wall leak water ? Or is there a washer in there somewhere? Cheers
what in the hell did i just watch? Im from Cincinnati, OH, USA. incredibly different, every single aspect of the material, styling, etc. i like how your WP material looks so much more that here. I gather we do the exact same thing for a living but the only similarity I think was the silicone. We use that here too!! At least now i know why i get light fixtures sometimes that have a bare/blue/brown cable instead of bare/black/white.
I take it you fitted a conduit through the wall to protect the T+E cable?
I haven’t got a shed, I want a outdoor light with a switch indoors because there’s no adequate place for a switch outside. I know i’ll have to spur off a socket but can’t really find one where it’s just a simple drilling through a wall job - more of a chasing job. What is your thought process when finding like an existing source to come off? Thank you, I’m aiming to be an electrician in the future so just trying to get advice. Any recommendations?
Great video, a question if I may, the schneider box for the outside light, dose this box have to be accessible! or can it be enclosed in a loft space, I take it the black wire is from the outside light in your video! in my case because the schneider box will be enclosed in a loft space (inaccessible) I need to link to the future outside light (undecided) would a twin and earth cable be suitable for the outside light/schneider box link or if not allowable what is the correct cable to connect to the light fixture to the schneider box.... Thank you Mark
Buy a Hager maintenance free joint can go anywhere then in the dry
Thank you@@Cjrelectrical
Doesn't drilling the drainage hole in the back box affect the IP rating?
yeh, I would have thought it's not needed to drill a hole in the box outside, surely it's not waterproof anymore.
Yes it does, as soon as you do that you lose the IP rating as per the instructions ;) If moisture is getting in you have a problem and when using conduit ensure its outdoor rated to the correct spec. You see too many people using indoor pvc conduit and glands outdoors.
How much would somthing like this cost but on my side enterance pathway ? I have mains sockets behind the wall so access to power should not be an issue? Cheers
Nice, in Malta we always put 75% of the box inside the wall. I see it too rough as a surface box.
Just moved into a property , has outside sockets in garden in a ip65 junction box , the only problem is they’ve drilled holes in the junction box & not used waterproof glands ! Full of water & tripping 🙈
I’ve learned a lot from your videos, it’s just the little comments that really stick with you and pop up whilst on a job
Thanks for the vid, do you use self tapping screws to mount the waterproof boxes to the wall if so would you recommend any that work?
Would have most likely been Rawlplugs I’d reckon!
The conduit adaptors you use to connect the outdoor socket to the FCU would these not compromise the IP rating of the boxes as they do not have rubber seals?. I have used the same adaptors for indoor connections ( garage ), but wondered if ok for outdoor use.
Good video mate I’m getting taught SWA using grips. Can you do a video of any handy tricks of the trade. Be good to see from an apprentice point of view 👍
I’m with you on glanding the armoured with adjustable’s, I was always taught that way in my apprenticeship, but the argument people make is that you should use spanner’s as the adjustable’s can damage the heads of the nuts on the glands etc 🤔
G Man yes with spanner’s you can get better grip whereas with grips and adjustable you can damage the rigs as they tend to open when using and grips have teeths. The spanner is straight and tough.
I always use spanners, not adjustables. Just ask a mechanic what's best.
"Fuse Spur" = sub panel in USA/CA. The concept of the dual ring main system is mind blowing to me here across the pond. I guess at least you have RCDs on everything, here now they need AFCI/AFDD s in all habitabile areas, in canada at least.
I’ve been an electrician in the US since 1989 and I subscribed because your work ethic is awesome and I’m always amazed how different our wiring methods and equipment differ. 👍
When you already hump half a ton of tools up several floors because no trades men are allowed to use the lift, what your gonna say is damn I'm gonna have to go back down for my spanners because all I got is adjustable grips 🤔
Adjustable spanner and grips for me, why carry both when your grips are adjustable too?
"She's on a different circuit ", is that a metaphor? :-)
another great video Chris, love the explanation's ( i get great enjoyment when you have a dig back at the 'know all's) :)
Great informative video, question how far from out tap or rainwater downpipe can I place a Wessex IP66 13A DP switched 2 gang?
www.google.com/search?client=safari&source=hp&ei=5N3IXpbYA7GajLsPmbiXgAw&q=ip+codes&oq=ip+codes&gs_lcp=ChFtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1ocBADMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAA6AggpOggIKRAWEB0QHjoECCkQQzoECCkQCjoECCkQRzoFCAAQgwE6AgguOgQIABAKOgQIABANOgIIBVDZDFi3PWCKQWgEcAB4AIABiQGIAcUHkgEDOS4zmAEAoAEBsAEP&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp#imgrc=Bjmyy2pyG17E3M:
@@Cjrelectrical, Thank you
How come you didn’t carry the trunking between the 3a switch and the Schneider with the wagos? Would have looked neater, no?
Graham DIY I wondered that too. Is there not the same requirement for mechanical protection?
Clipped direct on a double insulated cable is a perfectly adequate installation method I didn’t install that in conduit because it would have clashed with the sliding doors( I did say this in the video)
I didn’t believe this so I checked :-)
BS7671:522.6.2 (i) assuming that it’s medium severity (AG2 - IEC 62262 IK=07) then PVC Flat (6241Y, 6242Y, 6243Y to BS6004) is as you say, suitable to be installed in this method. :-)
It's suitable but I don't like. I'd also not spur off a socket but to a dedicated rcbo. Different building, different circuit. No way of killing power to shed.
FYI. Read the instructions that comes with any IP66 outdoors plug, as soon as you drill that little DRAIN hole, your IP66 weatherproof is no longer IP66. Read it, it voids it, as moisture can actually get in as well as condensation :)
Hi fella. I’ve got a fused spur used for the outside light. I’ve seen fused spur plates that have timers on them. Would that be a straight swap
i'm glad you actually put a hole in the drain, people don't bother to do that most of the time
Great video,one of the best i have watched on youtube,short but very instructive.What would your cable size be coming initially from the inside socket,2.5 , I am in the process of doing some landscaping in my garden with lighting, I was going to take the SWA from a new consumer unit, which someone was doing for me,but this seems to be a lot easier and i can do this on my own, i was scared the socket the cable is coming from inside the kitched would be overloaded, There would also be ground lighting scattered around with other cables,take it i would use more spurs from other sockets from ground lights to protect any shorting.??
Any tips for how to mount a flood light to a rectangular box?
Brill useful video many thanks. Any chance you could give info on pricing jobs mate. Appreciate if you don’t want to. Cheers
Can you please give information about the plastic pipe between the socket and the switch please?
I have been told off using pair of grips tighten up 10mm bolt for the ladder rack containment 20 years ago,( tommy clarcke )
Question... are those plastic couplers ip rated? Did this before and the outdoor switch I installed filled with water and got rotten with rust... ended up installing a new switch but used a PG gland instead of the plastic coupler.
Drill drain holes
Ya but water can still get in right? Is there any difference in the male or female coupler and lock ring?🤔 I'm wiring a kennel at the moment where they will be power washing everything down... pg glands all over the switches will look gammy... your method is neater if it was water tight?
Good video but was that shed panel you drilled through made from asbestos ?
Wood
Most industrial sites these day specify not to fit cable shrouds as they tend to trap moisture in glands. The gland should have suitable IP rating for the application without.
What's that brush-on adhesive/sealant you're using?
Hi CJR great video can I ask what SWA you used? Not seen with blue brown g/y before could you advise where to purchase?
Just a quick question hopefully someone can answer. You’ve come off the socket inside and installed a switched fuse spur. Then you installed one in the shed. Is this allowed?
the one in the shed was so he could put a 3 amp fuse in it for the light.the one at the house was 13amp,so the shed socket was fed on 13amp
What conduit are you using to connect the fuse box to outside socket? Im looking to do this exact setup but cant seam to find the right tube for the wires to pass through
A most superb job sir well done.
What size grey cable did you use exactly. Would it be possible to also tell me the size of the conduit
Just to add to other comments, I worked on water sites where glands had to be replaced due to them being chewed by grips, we had to use adjustable spanners. I used grips before that like everyone else, now I stick to adjustables so there's never any comebacks. Guess it depends on the spec of the job, some places are seriously fussy.
How is seal on the outside twin socket where 20mm adaptor enters
The woman needs to get a grip of that cleaner, if you weren't there she'd be sitting with her feet up supping coffee and reading Hello Magazine.
I was fully expecting you to find Catweazel living in that shed!
I think I would have put the spur indoors. Do the swa up with whatever you have,I use a spanner for lower half and grips for top.
Agreed with spur inside. If it starts pissing it down outside it gives you a bit of "remote control"
Client didn’t want the wall chopping out .
Putting SWA cleats in boiling water - that’s a new one on me 😃
09weenic it might test good who knows😇
Hi mate - I’m after the same sort of set up. What is the rough cost of this install?
Grips are no problem. But for pyro I prefer spanners, to get the olive to make a perfect connection. Nice job!
I love Electricfix, Just do click & collect and by the time you get there they have it all ready in a basket, in and out in two minutes or less. Even if the branch doesn't have a click and collect counter, just shout out collection and they will serve you before the rest of the queue!
Do you email quote requests? They have trade offers that you only get on batch jobs. If you buy a DB and accessories they give you the wire for next to feck all 👍🏼
You've tightened the piranha nut incorrectly. The gland should be tightened by holding the piranha nut whilst tightening the gland from the outside. That way the brass teeth cut through any paint and make a firm contact with the steel (or plastic) surface. By tightning the gland using the nut as you suggest, you will round off the brass teeth if a steel box or gouge the material if a plastic box. Either way you end up with a scruffy job..
I thought a shed is outside the equipotential zone and you would have to break the earth connection from house and sink an earth stake.
Brilliant invention them earth nuts.
I think that was 16-17 edition, l learnt that as long as your readings are ok and it's on a rcd it's fine.
No problem using adjustable water pump pliers. I must have made hundreds of swa glands off, never had a problem with damage to the glands.
No issues with pump pliers just tend to make a mess of the gland if they slip. All I do is work with swa and my preferred method currently is rotheberger wide thin jaw adjustable, the thin jaws get in all the tight spaces (i recommend them), or I used Cmp swa glands and a set of 24mm spanners. It's when you get an 18" set of stilsons out you start getting strange looks 😉
With regards to your earth nut see the swa Taurus video it shows you how to fit them (1spanner) you screw the gland into the nut not the nut onto the gland so you pull the prongs into the box. I did as you at first and found I had issues with a few later on.
Good video and neat work, nice to see someone putting thought into a job
Do contractors up the line (not in Cornwall) really use screwfix....why not proper wholesalers with good quality kit and similar prices
tomorichard Thompson factually not true chief, eletricfix wiped the floor with the local wholesalers for consumer units, especially when they have an offer on. Sure there are some more specialist bits that I have to get from a wholesaler, but otherwise Screwfix is a nice one stop shop. The fact they do other trades as well makes it nice and easy.
Anyone know who makes that transparent and flexible switch box cover he used? I have never seen that used in the states but like it!
Another great video Chris. Thanks
What are those white tubes between the boxes called? Can't seem to find them anywhere!
No grommet on the back entry into the double socket, twin and earth looked really tight, but hard plastic of the box might cause cable damage !.
SIlicone - silicone
Grips - Channel Locks
glands - wp cord connectors
piranha nut - bonding bushing
spanner - adjustable wrench
socket - receptacle
earths - ground wires
seriously strange that we speak the same language, but also dont....
DonLemon shouldjustgoaway Americans eh ! Same with cars bonnet - hood , boot- trunk , rotors -brake discs ect
Great if I want to know how to put boxes up but no good if I want to see how the wirings done just take a photo when you’ve done the job and I would learn as much as I did here.
Robert Clyne This isn’t a how-to channel though. I’m not gonna be one of those people that say ‘if you don’t know how to, hire an electrician’ but seriously, this isn’t a DIY how to channel, it’s a vlog channel of a working electrician. And wiring a socket up is BASIC so if you don’t know how to do that then 🤷🏼♂️
What size or armour is that you have used mate ? Looks like a 4mm ?
My ToolStation is actually pretty good. A guy walked up to the counter and started giving the police profile of the bit he was looking for, the woman stops him mid sentence and says, “have you got number mate? No, then the catalog is over there, come back when you know what you want. Who’s Next!” I nearly gave her a high-five 😂
It's amazing the amount of idiots who go intro Toolstation or Screwfix, go straight up to the counter without even looking at the catalogue, and then waste everyone else's time by entering into a long discussion about what it is they're looking for! They clearly don't get the concept of the catalogue, either that or they lack even the most basic skill of copying down a part number 😒
Or it means the staff at toolstation don’t have a clue themselves and only need you to give them a catalog number because if ask them advice it goes over the heads may aswell work at Argos the same job .
Victoria Gale it means they aren’t clairvoyant. Trying to guess what the hell customers are trying to buy when they don’t have a clue themselves. They are customer service people, not traders with years of training. 99% of the time they try and help, but with a queue of traders waiting who do actually know what they want.... oh and try walking up to an Argos desk on a busy day and describing in piss poor detail what you’re looking for without know what it’s called, what it’s for or how it works and see how overjoyed they are 😂
@@victoriagale4090 if you don't know what you want You're better off going to B&Q, Homebase, or a local DIY store. Toolstation and Screwfix aren't set up for people who haven't got a clue what they're looking for.
If you sell a product you should have some knowledge in what your selling and if you go to screw fix or toolstation granted you should already know what you want but most of them where I live have a trade counter ,separate room where you don’t get the little old man just asking for advice and expecting the person to be able to help him . If your waiting in the queue at the general open to the public desk your in the wrong place and should expect the general public to be not as savvy it’s going to take longer .
Another good video Chris. Always enjoy watching them. It's good that you take the time for filming and editing for us to watch. 👍
Would it not have been better to put a double switch so they can leave the pir flood on but switch off light in the shed if and when fitted....
Now that you've made alterations to the circuit do you inspect ten percent of that circuit or just what you've done?
You carry out a minor works certificate.
So that IP66 twin socket-outlet is now not IP66...You should have fitted a 20mm sealing washer where the conduit enters from the top
How much would a job like this cost?
Very helpful, thanks for sharing
If you drilled the brick with a smaller drill bit and from brick in carefully you wouldn’t have bodged the face of the brick !! Apart from that looking gash good job
I love your videos. I studie for being a electrician too.
Is this a spur, off a spur?
Tbh I use a set of bahco adjustables and gland pliers for doing glands, always find you need the plyers as the depth of the flats on the top section of the gland are too thin to use two pairs of adjustables and that's why you end up damaging them.
Is it just me that earth's the armouring at both load and supply ends though?
Could also put a banjo on the gland inside the plastic outdoor socket with a flying earth to the earth terminal?
I was taught that if your'e using the house earth as the earth for exterior installation then you must. yes. But if you using an earth rod for exterior then you must not. Should the armour of the cable which I'm assuming you are using as the earth conductor on a 2 core become interupted you could find a two different potential difference. hence shock risk. Should you use a 3 core, so a seperate core for earth then one end should suffice no ?
Great video! !!!☺👍👍👍
My mentor told me not to use grips as it marks up the gland so we always use adjustable wrenches, we do alot of Ex glands and they have to be perfect no marking at all
Nice video mate. Clean install!