I have been using grips on SWA for 25 years and now from this video and some comments i find out i have been doing it all wrong all this time, seems i might scratch or dent the soft brass or get a splinter. Doh
On some jobs like crossrail, if they see a mark on the gland or piranha nut, its coming off and getting redone. So you only use toothless grips or adjustables. But for everything else, always grips
and them 25 years ago probs still work once tightening a brass nut isnt gonna do no damage ive never heard so much crap in my life look at what the "new" "correct" way gets u (from other installs) - flimsy cheap switches and conduits what disintegrate or cause a problem within the first year or 2, being picky is okay ish but scraping the barrel is just a headache :)
an abrasive surface left behind could create a spark if it was to come in to contact with another type of metal in certain environments could be very dangerous????
Second year apprentice in the us and I admire your workmanship and knowledge of the trade. Very enjoyable watching and learning even if your methods are a little different than my commercial experience
The lock nut goes on teeth down if you attach the gland to the box first, teeth up if you fit to the swa first. It's in the instructions on the packet. Also I was always taught to banjo at the start not at the end.
Brilliant video thank helped me a lot I have a question tho..... I want to put up an outdoor spot light for my drive but there is no existing light on the out side or any power on the out side What should I do in side I have a plug socket and a light switch could I connect to that ?
For the past 5 years as a domestic spark I’ve used grips but the past year I’ve ventured into heavy industrial work and any scratches to a gland will not pass quality control so I’ve been using adjustable spanner’s and flat jaw grips
Try gland spanners I am a have been doing industrial stuff for. Years glands for 185 cables all the way down to 2.5mm swa gland spanners if used correct are they best way.
I'm a sparky working a lot in street lighting and I've always been taught to use two sets of grips to tighten a gland up, how else would you do it? And a little handy tip I've found if you get a decent steel conduit cutter I got a rothenburger one like plumbers use to cut copper pipe ( just make sure it can cut steel) and use it to score the armoured strands on the swa takes half the time and a perfectly square cut every time 🤙. Great vlog as always, really enjoy your content keep it up
As a Yankee from across the big pond,I find your post very interesting. As a very junior sparky, enough to do a socket/recital or simple light.We use 110 volt 60 hz. and big fuse boxes. My house has 220 volts,60 hz. 200 amp.coming in with 40 circuits.I try and figure out what and how you do things.Please keep sharing. If I can get a picture to load I will send it.Thanks,Carl Tullahoma, Tennessee.
Was interested in the conduit between the spur and the socket - and the stuff you pasted on the pipe - but you didn't say a word when you did it. Unusual for you as you normally explain everything very well.
Hi mate, I'm a trainee spark who has just completed his level 2 at college. I've been asked to do a similar outside socket for someone. Can you tell me which drill bit you used to make that hole. Also, am I right to say you actually drilled through the socket back box and through the wall?
I have watched a few of your video's but this ones made me subscribe. I have OCD when it comes to waterproofing outside electrical equipment (over a decade working with submersibles). First video I've seen with the IP rated sockets/spurs fitted correctly with a chance of not letting water in . I say chance as there designed to allow some water in. I've seen water ingress through the factory fitted knock outs on the top surface so your fighting a losing battle. A question I would like to ask is it common practice in a domestic setting to do top entry on outside fittings as I see a lot of these but in the water industry and other industrial environments top entry is a big no no due to it increasing the chance of water ingress? Also something that may help others is that I have experienced over time that sockets, junction boxes etc outside resist condensation better if they can be placed so they see the sun at one point of the day. Sorry to waffle top vid and look forward to more.
Do those Schneider joint boxes need a tool to open them? Only ever tried the larger ones that had screws. I'd have earthed the armour at its source for reliability. Two parallel earth conductors wouldn't be my aim but wouldn't do any harm, it would have lowered the Zs slightly. Lots of the time it's impractical to test the rcd on a split load board, you just don't know if they have an iMac upstairs that's permanently on or the burglar alarm they've left off for the day is going to get upset.
@CJR ELECTRICAL Hello can you bring 2 ceiling lights off one 3amp fused spur. Both lights have their own switches. Also what amp fuse did you use on your first switched spur Thanks
Hi mate. So to clarify you broke into the ring main? Didn’t see what you did internally. I was doing this today, broke into my ring main (double socket) and extended to a fused spur (5AMP). The load then goes into a smart switch. From the smart switch there a cable running through the wall (used a metre drill) into a whiskey box and have two LED spots. There are hard wired so no armoured. I am planning to run 1.5 armour cable from the whisky box in and SWA to a third outside light, bollard light. So from my ring main I have added potential 3 LED exterior smart lights. Sorry for the ramble but your video appears to back up my process was sound?
When I started out I bought a set of grips especially for swa, never met anyone that dosent use them. I personally use one set grips and a large adjustable (or correct spanner if doing several). No one has ever complained. If people are dogging them up enough to splinter they are doing it wrong. Grips to hold, spanner to tighten. That's my way If I had 2 sets of grips in front of me and the spanner was all the way in the van with one gland to make off would I use them. I think you can guess the answer to that 😉
How much would somthing like this cost but on my side enterance pathway ? I have mains sockets behind the wall so access to power should not be an issue? Cheers
Yes it does, as soon as you do that you lose the IP rating as per the instructions ;) If moisture is getting in you have a problem and when using conduit ensure its outdoor rated to the correct spec. You see too many people using indoor pvc conduit and glands outdoors.
Great video, a question if I may, the schneider box for the outside light, dose this box have to be accessible! or can it be enclosed in a loft space, I take it the black wire is from the outside light in your video! in my case because the schneider box will be enclosed in a loft space (inaccessible) I need to link to the future outside light (undecided) would a twin and earth cable be suitable for the outside light/schneider box link or if not allowable what is the correct cable to connect to the light fixture to the schneider box.... Thank you Mark
I haven’t got a shed, I want a outdoor light with a switch indoors because there’s no adequate place for a switch outside. I know i’ll have to spur off a socket but can’t really find one where it’s just a simple drilling through a wall job - more of a chasing job. What is your thought process when finding like an existing source to come off? Thank you, I’m aiming to be an electrician in the future so just trying to get advice. Any recommendations?
Good video mate I’m getting taught SWA using grips. Can you do a video of any handy tricks of the trade. Be good to see from an apprentice point of view 👍
Clipped direct on a double insulated cable is a perfectly adequate installation method I didn’t install that in conduit because it would have clashed with the sliding doors( I did say this in the video)
I didn’t believe this so I checked :-) BS7671:522.6.2 (i) assuming that it’s medium severity (AG2 - IEC 62262 IK=07) then PVC Flat (6241Y, 6242Y, 6243Y to BS6004) is as you say, suitable to be installed in this method. :-)
It's suitable but I don't like. I'd also not spur off a socket but to a dedicated rcbo. Different building, different circuit. No way of killing power to shed.
what in the hell did i just watch? Im from Cincinnati, OH, USA. incredibly different, every single aspect of the material, styling, etc. i like how your WP material looks so much more that here. I gather we do the exact same thing for a living but the only similarity I think was the silicone. We use that here too!! At least now i know why i get light fixtures sometimes that have a bare/blue/brown cable instead of bare/black/white.
The conduit adaptors you use to connect the outdoor socket to the FCU would these not compromise the IP rating of the boxes as they do not have rubber seals?. I have used the same adaptors for indoor connections ( garage ), but wondered if ok for outdoor use.
FYI. Read the instructions that comes with any IP66 outdoors plug, as soon as you drill that little DRAIN hole, your IP66 weatherproof is no longer IP66. Read it, it voids it, as moisture can actually get in as well as condensation :)
"Fuse Spur" = sub panel in USA/CA. The concept of the dual ring main system is mind blowing to me here across the pond. I guess at least you have RCDs on everything, here now they need AFCI/AFDD s in all habitabile areas, in canada at least.
Just a quick question hopefully someone can answer. You’ve come off the socket inside and installed a switched fuse spur. Then you installed one in the shed. Is this allowed?
Most industrial sites these day specify not to fit cable shrouds as they tend to trap moisture in glands. The gland should have suitable IP rating for the application without.
I’m with you on glanding the armoured with adjustable’s, I was always taught that way in my apprenticeship, but the argument people make is that you should use spanner’s as the adjustable’s can damage the heads of the nuts on the glands etc 🤔
G Man yes with spanner’s you can get better grip whereas with grips and adjustable you can damage the rigs as they tend to open when using and grips have teeths. The spanner is straight and tough.
Just moved into a property , has outside sockets in garden in a ip65 junction box , the only problem is they’ve drilled holes in the junction box & not used waterproof glands ! Full of water & tripping 🙈
No issues with pump pliers just tend to make a mess of the gland if they slip. All I do is work with swa and my preferred method currently is rotheberger wide thin jaw adjustable, the thin jaws get in all the tight spaces (i recommend them), or I used Cmp swa glands and a set of 24mm spanners. It's when you get an 18" set of stilsons out you start getting strange looks 😉 With regards to your earth nut see the swa Taurus video it shows you how to fit them (1spanner) you screw the gland into the nut not the nut onto the gland so you pull the prongs into the box. I did as you at first and found I had issues with a few later on. Good video and neat work, nice to see someone putting thought into a job
tomorichard Thompson factually not true chief, eletricfix wiped the floor with the local wholesalers for consumer units, especially when they have an offer on. Sure there are some more specialist bits that I have to get from a wholesaler, but otherwise Screwfix is a nice one stop shop. The fact they do other trades as well makes it nice and easy.
Great video,one of the best i have watched on youtube,short but very instructive.What would your cable size be coming initially from the inside socket,2.5 , I am in the process of doing some landscaping in my garden with lighting, I was going to take the SWA from a new consumer unit, which someone was doing for me,but this seems to be a lot easier and i can do this on my own, i was scared the socket the cable is coming from inside the kitched would be overloaded, There would also be ground lighting scattered around with other cables,take it i would use more spurs from other sockets from ground lights to protect any shorting.??
Question... are those plastic couplers ip rated? Did this before and the outdoor switch I installed filled with water and got rotten with rust... ended up installing a new switch but used a PG gland instead of the plastic coupler.
Ya but water can still get in right? Is there any difference in the male or female coupler and lock ring?🤔 I'm wiring a kennel at the moment where they will be power washing everything down... pg glands all over the switches will look gammy... your method is neater if it was water tight?
What conduit are you using to connect the fuse box to outside socket? Im looking to do this exact setup but cant seam to find the right tube for the wires to pass through
I’ve been an electrician in the US since 1989 and I subscribed because your work ethic is awesome and I’m always amazed how different our wiring methods and equipment differ. 👍
Tbh I use a set of bahco adjustables and gland pliers for doing glands, always find you need the plyers as the depth of the flats on the top section of the gland are too thin to use two pairs of adjustables and that's why you end up damaging them. Is it just me that earth's the armouring at both load and supply ends though? Could also put a banjo on the gland inside the plastic outdoor socket with a flying earth to the earth terminal?
I was taught that if your'e using the house earth as the earth for exterior installation then you must. yes. But if you using an earth rod for exterior then you must not. Should the armour of the cable which I'm assuming you are using as the earth conductor on a 2 core become interupted you could find a two different potential difference. hence shock risk. Should you use a 3 core, so a seperate core for earth then one end should suffice no ?
This is the type of work I love doing as an electrician, domestic work I love, commercial and industrial is more physically demanding but it's ok. Just the appreciation of going into someones home and making it better and just getting offered a cuppa tea or coffee by the client is nice!
My mentor told me not to use grips as it marks up the gland so we always use adjustable wrenches, we do alot of Ex glands and they have to be perfect no marking at all
Why have you not put a small dB in that Shed on a distribution circuit and why should you put in on the ring main to the kitchen RCD connected it to the house also it would be interesting to know what earthing arrangement was in the property
if its going to be high load then yes dB but you be running right of the consumer unit for low load not needed anything going external i generally use an single indoor 13A fused RCD box (you can put lower Amp fuse in them depending on Amps you need to limit cable to) inside the house just before the cable goes outside where it be unaffected by damp and easy isolation and it likely trip before house breaker trips,if its overload it blow the fuse first as installed like this way can take out downstairs mains ring and not be able to isolate if problem happens inside that PIR light (quite common) or boxes to much damp in them shoritng them out still a professional install just i would install push button with fuse RCD house side is only thing i would do different so it's easy to isolate (does require you to dig the wall out to fit the RCD above the socket inside the house but don't need that top external waterproof switch box so cost wise may be the same) we had a loose connector on a light fitting (or somthing like that) that kept on poping the indoor to outer box breaker if that was not there mains ring would of been poping instead
@@leexgx i understand what your saying but it just doesn't seem right. if this earthing arrangement is a TNC-S PME the shed should have a earth rod and not be connected to the house earthing arrangement they way that is done here should have a double pole fuse spur that is in the shed to isolate the whole installation the last thing someone wants is he shed tripping the house and a double pole isolator would at least enable you to isolate the fault without tripping the house again
Great if I want to know how to put boxes up but no good if I want to see how the wirings done just take a photo when you’ve done the job and I would learn as much as I did here.
Robert Clyne This isn’t a how-to channel though. I’m not gonna be one of those people that say ‘if you don’t know how to, hire an electrician’ but seriously, this isn’t a DIY how to channel, it’s a vlog channel of a working electrician. And wiring a socket up is BASIC so if you don’t know how to do that then 🤷🏼♂️
You shouldn’t use grips fo cable glands because they rough up the surface of the brass gland and that will produce splinters which of course are very painful when they are in your fingers etc Indeed on sites such as petrol chemical and the like you are only allowed to use the correct size spanner for the gland you are working on
Actually, this is true when doing up ATEX/EX glands. i worked for a specialist company doing petrochemical, explosion proof equipment, and several factory acceptance tests were failed due to damage to the glands outer collars, in domestic stuff it's not a major problem, but hey just do the job right with the right tools eh? take some pride in your work... ;-)
I thought a shed is outside the equipotential zone and you would have to break the earth connection from house and sink an earth stake. Brilliant invention them earth nuts.
I have been using grips on SWA for 25 years and now from this video and some comments i find out i have been doing it all wrong all this time, seems i might scratch or dent the soft brass or get a splinter. Doh
On some jobs like crossrail, if they see a mark on the gland or piranha nut, its coming off and getting redone. So you only use toothless grips or adjustables.
But for everything else, always grips
and them 25 years ago probs still work once tightening a brass nut isnt gonna do no damage ive never heard so much crap in my life look at what the "new" "correct" way gets u (from other installs) - flimsy cheap switches and conduits what disintegrate or cause a problem within the first year or 2, being picky is okay ish but scraping the barrel is just a headache :)
Awww damn... seems that we've all been doing it wrong according to the Internet.
Grips are fine, jeeze...anyway back to the real world ;)
an abrasive surface left behind could create a spark if it was to come in to contact with another type of metal in certain environments could be very dangerous????
Second year apprentice in the us and I admire your workmanship and knowledge of the trade. Very enjoyable watching and learning even if your methods are a little different than my commercial experience
That burst- out brick caused by the masonry drill would do my head in. It's attention to (avoiding) such calamities that makes for a quality job.
I like your vids, very well explained with lots of detail, I use them as a reference at times thanks for sharing and keep them coming. 👍
Excellent informative video, lovely and neat job. Well done has helped me out a lot for my outside lighting.
I like putting the silicone on the back of the box on the top and sides to avoid the silicone marks on the walls. As always good job 👍.
Your armoured cable increased the structural strength of the decking, planters & shed by at least 50%
😂😂😂
The lock nut goes on teeth down if you attach the gland to the box first, teeth up if you fit to the swa first. It's in the instructions on the packet. Also I was always taught to banjo at the start not at the end.
Brilliant video thank helped me a lot
I have a question tho.....
I want to put up an outdoor spot light for my drive but there is no existing light on the out side or any power on the out side
What should I do in side I have a plug socket and a light switch could I connect to that ?
For the past 5 years as a domestic spark I’ve used grips but the past year I’ve ventured into heavy industrial work and any scratches to a gland will not pass quality control so I’ve been using adjustable spanner’s and flat jaw grips
You can get plumbers pliers with plastic jaws, Monument tools is one company that does them. You could easily make your own too.
Try gland spanners I am a have been doing industrial stuff for. Years glands for 185 cables all the way down to 2.5mm swa gland spanners if used correct are they best way.
I'm a sparky working a lot in street lighting and I've always been taught to use two sets of grips to tighten a gland up, how else would you do it? And a little handy tip I've found if you get a decent steel conduit cutter I got a rothenburger one like plumbers use to cut copper pipe ( just make sure it can cut steel) and use it to score the armoured strands on the swa takes half the time and a perfectly square cut every time 🤙. Great vlog as always, really enjoy your content keep it up
Spend more on electrics than the cost of shed?
As a Yankee from across the big pond,I find your post very interesting. As a very junior sparky, enough to do a socket/recital or simple light.We use 110 volt 60 hz. and big fuse boxes. My house has 220 volts,60 hz. 200 amp.coming in with 40 circuits.I try and figure out what and how you do things.Please keep sharing. If I can get a picture to load I will send it.Thanks,Carl Tullahoma, Tennessee.
Is that kewtech64 any good. Price?
Those wiska earth lock nuts are the dogs bollocks ! Expensive but worth it !
Good job mate done the same today for a garage with the metal clad and conduit 👍
Was interested in the conduit between the spur and the socket - and the stuff you pasted on the pipe - but you didn't say a word when you did it. Unusual for you as you normally explain everything very well.
Great channel came across your channel and I really enjoy it I'm a plumber by trade and nice to see a electrician at work 😊😊
A most superb job sir well done.
Hasn't lithium hand tools revolutionised service/repair industries 🛠️👍.
Great video and some good comments too.
On some high spec jobs data centres, civils projects like tunnels, You use gland spanners and it's just so the brass doesn't get scored by the grips.
And ATEX certified glands.
Hi mate, I'm a trainee spark who has just completed his level 2 at college. I've been asked to do a similar outside socket for someone. Can you tell me which drill bit you used to make that hole. Also, am I right to say you actually drilled through the socket back box and through the wall?
I always keep those ‘knockouts’.
The amount of outside sockets I’ve seen with them missing is considerable. I just replace if I see any missing.
I take it you fitted a conduit through the wall to protect the T+E cable?
I have watched a few of your video's but this ones made me subscribe. I have OCD when it comes to waterproofing outside electrical equipment (over a decade working with submersibles). First video I've seen with the IP rated sockets/spurs fitted correctly with a chance of not letting water in . I say chance as there designed to allow some water in. I've seen water ingress through the factory fitted knock outs on the top surface so your fighting a losing battle.
A question I would like to ask is it common practice in a domestic setting to do top entry on outside fittings as I see a lot of these but in the water industry and other industrial environments top entry is a big no no due to it increasing the chance of water ingress?
Also something that may help others is that I have experienced over time that sockets, junction boxes etc outside resist condensation better if they can be placed so they see the sun at one point of the day.
Sorry to waffle top vid and look forward to more.
When I have worked on industrial sites top entry is not allowed. Always bottom entries .
@@dennisphoenix1 Bottom entry, is illegal in many countries.
@@ollydearden depends if its two males or not. but yes bottom entry is illegal in pakistan and india i believe
Do those Schneider joint boxes need a tool to open them? Only ever tried the larger ones that had screws. I'd have earthed the armour at its source for reliability. Two parallel earth conductors wouldn't be my aim but wouldn't do any harm, it would have lowered the Zs slightly. Lots of the time it's impractical to test the rcd on a split load board, you just don't know if they have an iMac upstairs that's permanently on or the burglar alarm they've left off for the day is going to get upset.
@CJR ELECTRICAL Hello can you bring 2 ceiling lights off one 3amp fused spur. Both lights have their own switches. Also what amp fuse did you use on your first switched spur
Thanks
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Hi mate. So to clarify you broke into the ring main? Didn’t see what you did internally. I was doing this today, broke into my ring main (double socket) and extended to a fused spur (5AMP).
The load then goes into a smart switch.
From the smart switch there a cable running through the wall (used a metre drill) into a whiskey box and have two LED spots. There are hard wired so no armoured.
I am planning to run 1.5 armour cable from the whisky box in and SWA to a third outside light, bollard light.
So from my ring main I have added potential 3 LED exterior smart lights.
Sorry for the ramble but your video appears to back up my process was sound?
Sounds ok
Love your craft sheesh. amazing work
When I started out I bought a set of grips especially for swa, never met anyone that dosent use them.
I personally use one set grips and a large adjustable (or correct spanner if doing several). No one has ever complained. If people are dogging them up enough to splinter they are doing it wrong. Grips to hold, spanner to tighten. That's my way
If I had 2 sets of grips in front of me and the spanner was all the way in the van with one gland to make off would I use them. I think you can guess the answer to that 😉
Hi would the pvc link pipe between the two box’s on the house wall leak water ? Or is there a washer in there somewhere? Cheers
Nice video mate. Clean install!
How much would somthing like this cost but on my side enterance pathway ? I have mains sockets behind the wall so access to power should not be an issue? Cheers
Doesn't drilling the drainage hole in the back box affect the IP rating?
yeh, I would have thought it's not needed to drill a hole in the box outside, surely it's not waterproof anymore.
Yes it does, as soon as you do that you lose the IP rating as per the instructions ;) If moisture is getting in you have a problem and when using conduit ensure its outdoor rated to the correct spec. You see too many people using indoor pvc conduit and glands outdoors.
Great video! How long did it take you to do this whole job? Thanks.
Great vid. What cable did u use to the outside light ? Can normal flex be used or something like pond cable ??
Great video, a question if I may, the schneider box for the outside light, dose this box have to be accessible! or can it be enclosed in a loft space, I take it the black wire is from the outside light in your video! in my case because the schneider box will be enclosed in a loft space (inaccessible) I need to link to the future outside light (undecided) would a twin and earth cable be suitable for the outside light/schneider box link or if not allowable what is the correct cable to connect to the light fixture to the schneider box.... Thank you Mark
Buy a Hager maintenance free joint can go anywhere then in the dry
Thank you@@Cjrelectrical
Nice, in Malta we always put 75% of the box inside the wall. I see it too rough as a surface box.
Another great video Chris. Thanks
How is seal on the outside twin socket where 20mm adaptor enters
Very helpful, thanks for sharing
Great informative video, question how far from out tap or rainwater downpipe can I place a Wessex IP66 13A DP switched 2 gang?
www.google.com/search?client=safari&source=hp&ei=5N3IXpbYA7GajLsPmbiXgAw&q=ip+codes&oq=ip+codes&gs_lcp=ChFtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1ocBADMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAA6AggpOggIKRAWEB0QHjoECCkQQzoECCkQCjoECCkQRzoFCAAQgwE6AgguOgQIABAKOgQIABANOgIIBVDZDFi3PWCKQWgEcAB4AIABiQGIAcUHkgEDOS4zmAEAoAEBsAEP&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp#imgrc=Bjmyy2pyG17E3M:
@@Cjrelectrical, Thank you
What stuffing glands did you use for the Schneider boxes? I find a 20mm leaves a gap?
Since stuffing gland wasn't mounted on top horizontal surface, only ip2x and ipxxb applies in the case of the gap your referring too.
I think I would have put the spur indoors. Do the swa up with whatever you have,I use a spanner for lower half and grips for top.
Agreed with spur inside. If it starts pissing it down outside it gives you a bit of "remote control"
Client didn’t want the wall chopping out .
I haven’t got a shed, I want a outdoor light with a switch indoors because there’s no adequate place for a switch outside. I know i’ll have to spur off a socket but can’t really find one where it’s just a simple drilling through a wall job - more of a chasing job. What is your thought process when finding like an existing source to come off? Thank you, I’m aiming to be an electrician in the future so just trying to get advice. Any recommendations?
Brill useful video many thanks. Any chance you could give info on pricing jobs mate. Appreciate if you don’t want to. Cheers
Good video mate I’m getting taught SWA using grips. Can you do a video of any handy tricks of the trade. Be good to see from an apprentice point of view 👍
How come you didn’t carry the trunking between the 3a switch and the Schneider with the wagos? Would have looked neater, no?
Graham DIY I wondered that too. Is there not the same requirement for mechanical protection?
Clipped direct on a double insulated cable is a perfectly adequate installation method I didn’t install that in conduit because it would have clashed with the sliding doors( I did say this in the video)
I didn’t believe this so I checked :-)
BS7671:522.6.2 (i) assuming that it’s medium severity (AG2 - IEC 62262 IK=07) then PVC Flat (6241Y, 6242Y, 6243Y to BS6004) is as you say, suitable to be installed in this method. :-)
It's suitable but I don't like. I'd also not spur off a socket but to a dedicated rcbo. Different building, different circuit. No way of killing power to shed.
Hi fella. I’ve got a fused spur used for the outside light. I’ve seen fused spur plates that have timers on them. Would that be a straight swap
What's that brush-on adhesive/sealant you're using?
what in the hell did i just watch? Im from Cincinnati, OH, USA. incredibly different, every single aspect of the material, styling, etc. i like how your WP material looks so much more that here. I gather we do the exact same thing for a living but the only similarity I think was the silicone. We use that here too!! At least now i know why i get light fixtures sometimes that have a bare/blue/brown cable instead of bare/black/white.
The conduit adaptors you use to connect the outdoor socket to the FCU would these not compromise the IP rating of the boxes as they do not have rubber seals?. I have used the same adaptors for indoor connections ( garage ), but wondered if ok for outdoor use.
FYI. Read the instructions that comes with any IP66 outdoors plug, as soon as you drill that little DRAIN hole, your IP66 weatherproof is no longer IP66. Read it, it voids it, as moisture can actually get in as well as condensation :)
What size grey cable did you use exactly. Would it be possible to also tell me the size of the conduit
Good video but was that shed panel you drilled through made from asbestos ?
Wood
"Fuse Spur" = sub panel in USA/CA. The concept of the dual ring main system is mind blowing to me here across the pond. I guess at least you have RCDs on everything, here now they need AFCI/AFDD s in all habitabile areas, in canada at least.
Just a quick question hopefully someone can answer. You’ve come off the socket inside and installed a switched fuse spur. Then you installed one in the shed. Is this allowed?
the one in the shed was so he could put a 3 amp fuse in it for the light.the one at the house was 13amp,so the shed socket was fed on 13amp
Most industrial sites these day specify not to fit cable shrouds as they tend to trap moisture in glands. The gland should have suitable IP rating for the application without.
I have been told off using pair of grips tighten up 10mm bolt for the ladder rack containment 20 years ago,( tommy clarcke )
I’m with you on glanding the armoured with adjustable’s, I was always taught that way in my apprenticeship, but the argument people make is that you should use spanner’s as the adjustable’s can damage the heads of the nuts on the glands etc 🤔
G Man yes with spanner’s you can get better grip whereas with grips and adjustable you can damage the rigs as they tend to open when using and grips have teeths. The spanner is straight and tough.
I always use spanners, not adjustables. Just ask a mechanic what's best.
Great video! !!!☺👍👍👍
Any tips for how to mount a flood light to a rectangular box?
Just moved into a property , has outside sockets in garden in a ip65 junction box , the only problem is they’ve drilled holes in the junction box & not used waterproof glands ! Full of water & tripping 🙈
Grips are no problem. But for pyro I prefer spanners, to get the olive to make a perfect connection. Nice job!
Hi mate - I’m after the same sort of set up. What is the rough cost of this install?
No problem using adjustable water pump pliers. I must have made hundreds of swa glands off, never had a problem with damage to the glands.
No issues with pump pliers just tend to make a mess of the gland if they slip. All I do is work with swa and my preferred method currently is rotheberger wide thin jaw adjustable, the thin jaws get in all the tight spaces (i recommend them), or I used Cmp swa glands and a set of 24mm spanners. It's when you get an 18" set of stilsons out you start getting strange looks 😉
With regards to your earth nut see the swa Taurus video it shows you how to fit them (1spanner) you screw the gland into the nut not the nut onto the gland so you pull the prongs into the box. I did as you at first and found I had issues with a few later on.
Good video and neat work, nice to see someone putting thought into a job
Do contractors up the line (not in Cornwall) really use screwfix....why not proper wholesalers with good quality kit and similar prices
tomorichard Thompson factually not true chief, eletricfix wiped the floor with the local wholesalers for consumer units, especially when they have an offer on. Sure there are some more specialist bits that I have to get from a wholesaler, but otherwise Screwfix is a nice one stop shop. The fact they do other trades as well makes it nice and easy.
Can you please give information about the plastic pipe between the socket and the switch please?
Great video,one of the best i have watched on youtube,short but very instructive.What would your cable size be coming initially from the inside socket,2.5 , I am in the process of doing some landscaping in my garden with lighting, I was going to take the SWA from a new consumer unit, which someone was doing for me,but this seems to be a lot easier and i can do this on my own, i was scared the socket the cable is coming from inside the kitched would be overloaded, There would also be ground lighting scattered around with other cables,take it i would use more spurs from other sockets from ground lights to protect any shorting.??
Nice clean install mate
another great video Chris, love the explanation's ( i get great enjoyment when you have a dig back at the 'know all's) :)
"She's on a different circuit ", is that a metaphor? :-)
Anyone know who makes that transparent and flexible switch box cover he used? I have never seen that used in the states but like it!
Question... are those plastic couplers ip rated? Did this before and the outdoor switch I installed filled with water and got rotten with rust... ended up installing a new switch but used a PG gland instead of the plastic coupler.
Drill drain holes
Ya but water can still get in right? Is there any difference in the male or female coupler and lock ring?🤔 I'm wiring a kennel at the moment where they will be power washing everything down... pg glands all over the switches will look gammy... your method is neater if it was water tight?
Thanks for the vid, do you use self tapping screws to mount the waterproof boxes to the wall if so would you recommend any that work?
Would have most likely been Rawlplugs I’d reckon!
Should that SWA not be earthed from suply end?
What conduit are you using to connect the fuse box to outside socket? Im looking to do this exact setup but cant seam to find the right tube for the wires to pass through
How much would a job like this cost?
Is this a spur, off a spur?
I’ve been an electrician in the US since 1989 and I subscribed because your work ethic is awesome and I’m always amazed how different our wiring methods and equipment differ. 👍
I’ve learned a lot from your videos, it’s just the little comments that really stick with you and pop up whilst on a job
What size SWA did you use on this job?
What are those white tubes between the boxes called? Can't seem to find them anywhere!
Hi CJR great video can I ask what SWA you used? Not seen with blue brown g/y before could you advise where to purchase?
Another good video Chris. Always enjoy watching them. It's good that you take the time for filming and editing for us to watch. 👍
I love your videos. I studie for being a electrician too.
Tbh I use a set of bahco adjustables and gland pliers for doing glands, always find you need the plyers as the depth of the flats on the top section of the gland are too thin to use two pairs of adjustables and that's why you end up damaging them.
Is it just me that earth's the armouring at both load and supply ends though?
Could also put a banjo on the gland inside the plastic outdoor socket with a flying earth to the earth terminal?
I was taught that if your'e using the house earth as the earth for exterior installation then you must. yes. But if you using an earth rod for exterior then you must not. Should the armour of the cable which I'm assuming you are using as the earth conductor on a 2 core become interupted you could find a two different potential difference. hence shock risk. Should you use a 3 core, so a seperate core for earth then one end should suffice no ?
This is the type of work I love doing as an electrician, domestic work I love, commercial and industrial is more physically demanding but it's ok. Just the appreciation of going into someones home and making it better and just getting offered a cuppa tea or coffee by the client is nice!
My mentor told me not to use grips as it marks up the gland so we always use adjustable wrenches, we do alot of Ex glands and they have to be perfect no marking at all
hi what was the cost for that job, and what's the max double sockets you could of added in the shed
As the sockets Are protected by a 13 amp fuse the number of sockets is unlimited
I'm enjoying your videos, is it expensive to train as an electrician?
Not too much mate you can pay monthly, best choice you'll ever make
Or get an apprenticeship and they pay you...
@@zXLuke4efcXz No one is going to want a 44 year old as an apprentice!!
@@JimBiddle. Don't say that, I'm 46 and I want to be an electricains mate.
Good job 👍
When can we see the loft conversion progress. ? Also where is Andy these days?
Been on my Instagram stairs going in next.
I don't use Instagram. That's why I've never seen it.
Why have you not put a small dB in that Shed on a distribution circuit and why should you put in on the ring main to the kitchen RCD connected it to the house also it would be interesting to know what earthing arrangement was in the property
if its going to be high load then yes dB but you be running right of the consumer unit for low load not needed
anything going external i generally use an single indoor 13A fused RCD box (you can put lower Amp fuse in them depending on Amps you need to limit cable to) inside the house just before the cable goes outside where it be unaffected by damp and easy isolation and it likely trip before house breaker trips,if its overload it blow the fuse first
as installed like this way can take out downstairs mains ring and not be able to isolate if problem happens inside that PIR light (quite common) or boxes to much damp in them shoritng them out
still a professional install just i would install push button with fuse RCD house side is only thing i would do different so it's easy to isolate (does require you to dig the wall out to fit the RCD above the socket inside the house but don't need that top external waterproof switch box so cost wise may be the same)
we had a loose connector on a light fitting (or somthing like that) that kept on poping the indoor to outer box breaker if that was not there mains ring would of been poping instead
@@leexgx i understand what your saying but it just doesn't seem right.
if this earthing arrangement is a TNC-S PME the shed should have a earth rod and not be connected to the house earthing arrangement they way that is done here should have a double pole fuse spur that is in the shed to isolate the whole installation the last thing someone wants is he shed tripping the house and a double pole isolator would at least enable you to isolate the fault without tripping the house again
Hello, do you silicone the hole in the wall?
Thanks
Always good practice!
Very nicely shown keep up the good work👍
Great if I want to know how to put boxes up but no good if I want to see how the wirings done just take a photo when you’ve done the job and I would learn as much as I did here.
Robert Clyne This isn’t a how-to channel though. I’m not gonna be one of those people that say ‘if you don’t know how to, hire an electrician’ but seriously, this isn’t a DIY how to channel, it’s a vlog channel of a working electrician. And wiring a socket up is BASIC so if you don’t know how to do that then 🤷🏼♂️
What size or armour is that you have used mate ? Looks like a 4mm ?
You shouldn’t use grips fo cable glands because they rough up the surface of the brass gland and that will produce splinters which of course are very painful when they are in your fingers etc
Indeed on sites such as petrol chemical and the like you are only allowed to use the correct size spanner for the gland you are working on
Wow splinters is this serious
Actually, this is true when doing up ATEX/EX glands. i worked for a specialist company doing petrochemical, explosion proof equipment, and several factory acceptance tests were failed due to damage to the glands outer collars, in domestic stuff it's not a major problem, but hey just do the job right with the right tools eh? take some pride in your work... ;-)
muzikman2008 he used the right tool . It’s not a EX area
JaykSRFC only someone with little knowledge of this kind of installation would even think about saying that !
SUPERCIILIOUS AT TIMES
Would you post the price of these jobs?
I thought a shed is outside the equipotential zone and you would have to break the earth connection from house and sink an earth stake.
Brilliant invention them earth nuts.
I think that was 16-17 edition, l learnt that as long as your readings are ok and it's on a rcd it's fine.