Just installed three of these exact lights today, and made sure that I followed the tips in the video, including greasing the threads. Keep up the good work.
For goodness sake where have you been all my life , from a DIY point of view . You keep explaining things so well and addressing the tricky bits that make the difference between a good job and a slight bodge up , thanks .
I love the way your videos are aimed at the people who unknowingly might be fully capable of DIY but have been over cautious to try anything... . . . which is why I'm always amused by the "know-all" experts (on so many YT channels) who forever assert you SHOULD do it this way, or SHOULD have done that... ;-)
As an electrician do you now think that having a light on most likely 32A circuit breaker would be a little unsafe. You could argue that there is a 13A fuse use in the plug but thats still quite a low level of protection. But apart from that i do agree the work has been explained very clearly and completed to an acceptable standard
Good tips on this channel for the clueless amongst us, myself having no tools and no DIY talent at all, I got lucky, didnt have to drillI, i noticed loose mortar by outside upstairs window sill, when poked it went right through, so i ran a new tv ariel through and bought a 8W Luceco prewired sensor lamp, they are fitted with enough lead to go through your wall, just put a plug on with a 3 amp fuse, and a tube of Stixall filled in the hole, to my amazement the light and tv ariel are still in place and working
Hi Stuart, as an Electrician that also has a TH-cam channel it's clear that you take pride in your work. As an Electrician what I would've done differently is to not have the conduit on show within the house, I would possibly have taken the feed via the socket circuit and then onto a fused connection unit with nothing really being on show inside the house. You have the right idea in that as it's a class 1 fitting you need to make sure that it has good Earth continuity. I would also have checked to see if the house has an RCD fitted as it's an outside class 1 fitting. Also I would've fitted a 3A fuse. Everyone has their strengths and weaknesses, you will undoubtedly be able to do a lot more DIY work than I can. I would recommend to anyone that if they're confused by this video to get an Electrician in to complete the work, you're probably only looking at 1.5 hours labour to fit it as I just said.
@@DoctorElectricTH-camas a trademans myself I could think of anything worse than paying another bloke £100 an hour (minus expenses) to fit a light 😂 absolute daylight that is.
And that is one of the reasons I have a full diary, because "electrical work is easy", until you mess it up and then you have to call us in! We have been to so many jobs where the kitchen fitter or builder has done the work and it is very rough! Keep doing what you're doing, my mortgage appreciates it!@@lewismclean6285
I love how we have all been there - we think we have a great idea and then something gets stuck. Thanks for the video - I am going to install a light from off the garage this way.
Another excellent video and one that might just save me getting an electrician in to fit a light in the shared path between my neighbour and myself. Clear and simple explanation. Top job!
Very clearly explained, thank you. I could've done with finding this video before I fitted my outside lights, but there you go. Incidentally, that fourth connector on the timer, if it's not connected to anything at all, could that not have been used for earth?
A diyer who knows what they are doing, makes a change. I'm trained industrial, commercial and domestic electrician. They extra terminal in the timeclock may be a loop terminal for the earth, but unless stated on supplied wiring diagram your way is better. I would suggest to anyone doing this to make sure and use a 5amp or 3amp fuse in their plug top and not 13amp to keep fusing correct for size of cable. Job well done, thanks for video.
Another clear & concise video Stuart. A lantern with a built in PIR/PEC would have done away with the timer (if the manufacturer had such a matching item).
Another good wee video. Remember to change fuse in plug as they come with 13 amp as standard. Also could swop timer for WiFi switch so could be controlled by Alexa etc.
That marker is great, not seen that type before. Of course not breaking into the house electrics is also not risking breaking any regulations so great for the DIYer.
Good video mate, very explanatory for anyone who has no prior electric knowledge. I had a giggle when I noticed you had to take the light back off to fit the bolts to screw the cover on, we’ve all been there and done that with those up/down lights haha!
For one horrible moment, I thought we were going to hear "A Technical Term" when the Sharpie refused to budge...😱....🤣. Great videos, Stuart. Subscribed!
Brilliant......I am crap at DIY but your videos are so good...easy to follow and full of very handy tips that may be obvious to the experienced man but not to a luddite like me - keep em coming and thanks very much.
I just installed an outside light following your instructions - thanks Stuart. One thing I changed is rather than a clunky analog switch I chose a WiFi and Alexa enabled bulb which is so much more this century 😊
Nice job and really neat. The only addition to the install would have been to fit a lockable cable gland on the end of the conduit where the plug is. Would look neater and also prevent tugging the cable inside the conduit.
Neat job, looks really good. Thanks for sharing this great advice. I did a similar thing on the side of a outbuilding and it's been working well for several years.
I don’t know anything about electrics but I’ve wanted these up/down lights either side of my garage for a few years but never got round to paying somebody to fit them. Love your videos and I might even try fitting them myself now 👍🏼
I love the fact you include a parts list in your description this helps us know exactly what you have used. You have though not mentioned what you use for "grease". The uplighter part always seems to me to be a waste of electricity and adds to what us astronomers call light pollution. Do you think it serves any purpose?
This video was as well taped, edited, and the proper steps and equipment to use and how to install it as usual. That's why I love your videos. Everything is done Proper! There is a guy here in the States that has a woodworking channel but I refuse to watch it. Unlike you, where you explain and talk to the audience, this guy is so arrogant and full of himself and talks down to people. He is the opposite of you. Just for the record, give yourself a pat on the back for doing a bang up job with your channel! 👍👍!
Well thank you very much - very kind of you to say that. I try to make these videos as clear as possible while at the same time being not too serious so it's very nice to have feedback which tells me I'm doing that.
@@rodd8170 nope. Typically led gu10 are around 5w, so 10w for two, meaning a current draw of 0.041a @240v, or if they were old style drawing 100w in total that would be 0.41a
Yes u r right but the min size fuse for a 13amp plug is 3 amp. Now if u actually fitted a 1 amp fuse u would proberly find it will blow with initial surge current, which is why fuses are always higher than the normal load current.
Timely video as I'm doing this next week! Think I'll use a smart socket instead though. Can schedule timer but also do triggers so that they come on when I arrive home got example.
Thanks for the video. I usually agree with you wholeheartedly on everything and learn several new tips and tricks in every video but I do sort of disagree with you on wiring the light into a socket. I can see why you've done it in your case but for most people it's not convenient to lose a socket or have trunking round the room. I have a relatively new build so my walls are all hollow or dot and dab like yours and even as a relative amateur, doing this properly by running it to a fused connection unit spurred off the socket is incredibly easy.
I'm thinking that's quite a long flex. I may have used twin and earth all the way to the end of the conduit and then an FCU, then flex for a neater job than just flex running out of the conduit.
Great video. The question of 4 connectors at 12:42. Without looking at the connection box properly, could it be that the 4th connector is there to do exactly what you're using the WAGO type connector for? To be clear, I can't see the connection box clearly and therefore I'm asking a question rather than giving advice. I would always recommend taking professional advice in such circumstances.
Another fantastic video Stuart, ideally published as I have bought a light identical to replace an old coach style light, after having my soffit lights installed… this video has come at a perfect time for me as the tips you offered were things I hadn’t given consideration (ie) the grease, the silicone, sharpie gaff, and the conduit tutorial…. Absolutely brilliant information and instructions as always, keep them coming I look forward to these videos every week…. Fab
The 4th connector looks like a place to loop the earth instead of using the wago.. Additionally, you should reduce the rating in the fused plug to 5amp as most ship with 13amp installed
Its more likely a standard backplate. 4 terminals for Live & Neutral in and Live & Neutral out. Theres a trend now for not switching the neutral to the load, so 3 connections are used. The 4th terminal is blank, and probably could be used to carry earth connections, but it would be compromising the manufacturer's instructions. Probably best using a wago in this instance anyway, as hes used soild T&E and stranded flexible cores.
I've recently run a load of cables through conduit (they were previously just clipped to the wall) and found that the plastic pipe cutters I have for Speedfit pipe works a treat on the conduit.
Very well explained can you do video on how to connect these outdoor lights together? Or do you have different points to turn them on separately? I mean like how to switch them on altogether. TIA
Great video. I have a single outside garage light that is operated by one light switch. If I where to remove the light fixture would there only be one cable from switch to the light fixture? As the power source is taken from another switch that sits side by side.
Thanks a lot!!! However, if I want to connect the wires to the electric socket, do I connect the wires to the junction behind it? If I switch on or off the socket, will I switch off my light together as well?
Stuart I do have watched a lot of you tube videos. You have a method and skill which is well presented. I appreciate the time you take to make these videos - I am confident with most things but you never know it all or have the best method everything builds your knowledge etc. With respect to the comments from some trades here showing displeasure what I can say is I have seen work carried out by “qualified trades” which has seen my blood pressure rise and following trades ! Traders sometimes people use these videos just to help them understand or learn not all will just rip into the house. PS. Stuart can you show us how to make a height adjustable soap box 🙂
Thank you for your positive feedback. One reason I do most of this myself is so I don't have to put up with the so called 'experts' doing half a job for me - so I totally agree with your comments. I like the height adjustable soap box pun!
I've done this two, but in addition I used a 3amp fuse at the plug. Belt and braces I suppose as the cabling is more than up to 13 Amp, but with an LED external light the load will be tiny.
Thank you for sharing. Wonder if you could spread your knowledge. I too have an upside down lamp, however i have a non metal touch switch. My issue is i can switch the light on internally however when switched off it should automatically detect motion(which it doesnt). How can i fix this? No earth wires connected.
Lovely work buddy, I am about to do almost exactly the same with some 240v down lighters with a dimmer switch. Plug and perm fix in a storage cupboard.
Can I use the 1mm cable from the socket to the light. Still need to change the fuse? Nice work, you inspired me to do some work around the house. Thank you
Just installed outside lights using the methodology you've outlined in the film. Used a Kinetic switch for remote switching but basically the same as you've done. Great idea and very clear. Love being able to do this without having to get a minor works certificate from a qualified sparky.
Thanks for the video, very thorough, clear and some great tips that I wouldn't have thought of, like the right way up for the lights! I have some questions, and hope you can help. I have 12 outside lights to put up, to be powered from the garage, and having checked the light switch in the garage, it does not have an earth, so I will (presumably) have to go the same route as you did i.e., use a plug on the end connected to a garage socket. I have a couple of problems though - firstly, using your method, would I need to install a spur, or can I go directly from the plug socket, to the first light? I'm guessing no spur needed, but perhaps you could confirm? Secondly, 10 of the 12 lights are made of metal and have an earth connection accordingly, so they will need to be earthed (no problem, as the cable and T&E will cover that). However, two are plastic and do not have an earth. How can I wire them all up together? Would I simply bypass the earth connection on the two plastic lights (so just wiring up the live and neutral), and carry on to the 10 metal lights with all 3 wires (the earth bypassed from, and not connected to, the plastic light, and the live and neutral coming FROM the plastic light), or would it be better to have the two plastic lights at the end of the run, so terminate the earth connection at light no.10, with just the live and neutral continuing to the plastic lights? I wanted to start the run with the plastic lights as they will be on their own and are virtually the same as the other 10, but not exactly, hence I want them separate from the others so the difference isn't noticeable. I also have the issue of not a timer, but a Sensky Photocell Sensor Switch Dusk to Dawn (see Am@zon), which I will need to install outside, so that the lights will automatically switch on when dark. I'm assuming I should have that at the beginning of the run, before any lights, but can you confirm? The sensor does NOT have an earth connection, so would I again bypass the sensor and just continue the earth wire to the first light, along with the live and neutral from the sensor? The item on Am@zon shows the connections i.e., 2 x live, and 2 x neutral. Lastly, I will be running 6W LED lights, so total load will be 72 watts. Thanks in advance.
I’ve recently done the same with a couple of lights either side of garage door, very relieved to find I’d done it much the same way as you, Stuart. Great channel
Well I never knew about there being male and female fittings on the lamp. Makes perfect sense now you've told us. And I can confirm that not greasing the threads causes problems later on. I've found that its always the up facing bulb that needs replacing most often, which surprises me as you'd have thought the heat in the downward bulb would cause failure first. Great video.
I used lights with built in dusk to dawn photocell operation. Effective all year round and probably cheaper than a timer. Just needs an isolating switch. My problem is I am very close to the sea and many manufacturers say their lamps are not suitable. As they are all stainless steel I don't know why. The problem is they are lacquer coated and the lacquer deteriorates.
About to fit my own outside lights but I will need to get into my lighting circuit proper for it. One thing that I don’t understand is why didn’t you just put the white plug cable through directly to to the light. Why use the 1mm T&E ?
I'd recommend smart bulbs if you can for the GU10 bulbs (or any light really) Energizer do GU10's for around £5 each and you can schedule timings to come on / off automatically, and can schedule them to come on at dusk etc. V useful and so cheap now. Nice vid btw.
Great video, I liked the helpful hints about using the 15mm pipe through the wall, the use of silicone to fix the cable and pipe in place, and the orientation of the light and fitting. One observation I'd make is the necessity of an earthing sleeve on the bare earth wire. I look forward to future videos.
Thanks. The sleeve on the earth wire is an industry standard practice. Personally, I don't think you need it but if I don't put it in I get a lot of flack from the electricians who watch these videos!
Battery LED PIR lights have came on leaps and bounds last few years. Much more powerful and battery life good. For most non DIYers it's a better option.
It certainly is very important that the light fitting is earthed but how do you know it is earthed if you do not test to verify the continuity of the circuit protective conductor? When terminating fine stranded conductors into a plug top or for that matter any screwed connection ferrules should be used to ensure a good connection & to prevent damage to the conductors.
Great video. I did something similar recently, but chose to have the light have a regular plug on the end, and use a plug-through timer. This way I could use a smart plug with an app, which actually worked out cheaper than even the basic analog timer, and allowed me much more flexibility in setting.
Hi, great video and very helpful to me as I’m planning to install 3 outdoor lights to my garages! My question is … the lights I plan to install are remote control colour changing up down lights . So would the remote still turn them on and off while they are run through the timer which would be set for specific times?? Hope I’ve explained that ok
So basically a way to fit an outside light but only if it is on a wall that you are happy running a cable up, you want a timer almost out of reach up the wall and you have a spare plug nearby! Most outside lights will be on the house wall and the garage probably not have power nearby. (If that is you then run the feed from the nearest existing light). The four terminals is probably that it is a double switch to turn off the neutral and the live as is needed on some fittings.
What advantage was there to using 1.5mm twin and earth between the light and timer compared to running 1mm flex all the way through from the plug? That way you wouldn't need to brake into the earth and make a join with the wago connector. It also means the earth is continuous between the plug and the light.
Wiring regulations and best practice. Flexible cable is made up of strands of copper wire, T&E is solid copper wire. Lighting circuits in the UK are 1.5mm T&E which takes a terminal screw without the risk of breaking strands. He used a flexible cable as he was terminating to a plug, which could be subject to movement when plugging and unplugging (just as you would with a table lamp) hence the need for flexible cable, as well as clearly showing the light in question is being supplied from a power circuit. As he said "it's not recommended" but it's not a crime and perfectly acceptable. Good job and a quick fix.
Any chance you could do a short video how to wire a ‘dusk to dawn’ sensor to an existing light. I know the sensor only has 3 wires but i get confused when they talk about load and live !
I’m hoping to put a lamp post in my garden, I’ve got outdoor sockets already close to where I want the lamp post, could I just put a plug on the end of it and plug it in?
Hi there, just wondering about the fourth connector in the timer, if not connected to anything in the timer circuit, is it a loop connector to be used for CPC (earth) so avoiding need for jointing connector
I have smart bulbs in my outside lights, that way I can programme them to come on when it gets dark and go off at midnight. As it gets darker earlier or later it automatically adjusts.
Nice video, I have a 4lite fitting that looks the same but it has 2 white wires and an earth, how do I connect that to the house wiring that has a black , red and earth?
As always clearly explained and as an ex electrician I can say easy for non experts to follow
Thank you very much especially coming from an electrician.
Never an ex electrician
@@andyhawkes3335 so true ,when you enter a room do you always look up to see the lights , sign of true sparky!
@@raychambers3646 even on holiday i check the quality of conduit and traywork haha
Love the tip about greasing the thread on the light, that’s something not everyone would think about. Nice one
Just installed three of these exact lights today, and made sure that I followed the tips in the video, including greasing the threads.
Keep up the good work.
For goodness sake where have you been all my life , from a DIY point of view . You keep explaining things so well and addressing the tricky bits that make the difference between a good job and a slight bodge up , thanks .
Wow, thank you! Nice of you to think so.
Thanks I enjoyed this....I am not even planning to install outdoor lights yet I couldn't stop watching till the end lol
I'm glad you enjoyed it!
I love the way your videos are aimed at the people who unknowingly might be fully capable of DIY but have been over cautious to try anything...
. . . which is why I'm always amused by the "know-all" experts (on so many YT channels) who forever assert you SHOULD do it this way, or SHOULD have done that... ;-)
Thank you very much!
As an electrician for 31 years, you get a thumbs up. Well done. Clearly explained.
Thank you very much. As always I do very much appreciate positive comments from electricians!
@@ProperDIY
As always, another down to earth reply.
As an electrician do you now think that having a light on most likely 32A circuit breaker would be a little unsafe. You could argue that there is a 13A fuse use in the plug but thats still quite a low level of protection. But apart from that i do agree the work has been explained very clearly and completed to an acceptable standard
Good tips on this channel for the clueless amongst us, myself having no tools and no DIY talent at all, I got lucky, didnt have to drillI, i noticed loose mortar by outside upstairs window sill, when poked it went right through, so i ran a new tv ariel through and bought a 8W Luceco prewired sensor lamp, they are fitted with enough lead to go through your wall, just put a plug on with a 3 amp fuse, and a tube of Stixall filled in the hole, to my amazement the light and tv ariel are still in place and working
Hi Stuart, as an Electrician that also has a TH-cam channel it's clear that you take pride in your work.
As an Electrician what I would've done differently is to not have the conduit on show within the house, I would possibly have taken the feed via the socket circuit and then onto a fused connection unit with nothing really being on show inside the house.
You have the right idea in that as it's a class 1 fitting you need to make sure that it has good Earth continuity.
I would also have checked to see if the house has an RCD fitted as it's an outside class 1 fitting.
Also I would've fitted a 3A fuse.
Everyone has their strengths and weaknesses, you will undoubtedly be able to do a lot more DIY work than I can.
I would recommend to anyone that if they're confused by this video to get an Electrician in to complete the work, you're probably only looking at 1.5 hours labour to fit it as I just said.
How much do you think an electrician would charge to do this job
@@keziasarah If it is how this video is and the customer was supplying the light fitting then I would be charging about £150
@@DoctorElectricTH-cam thanks appreciate your reply
@@DoctorElectricTH-camas a trademans myself I could think of anything worse than paying another bloke £100 an hour (minus expenses) to fit a light 😂 absolute daylight that is.
And that is one of the reasons I have a full diary, because "electrical work is easy", until you mess it up and then you have to call us in!
We have been to so many jobs where the kitchen fitter or builder has done the work and it is very rough!
Keep doing what you're doing, my mortgage appreciates it!@@lewismclean6285
This man has very strong knowledge god bless his heart and soul
I love how we have all been there - we think we have a great idea and then something gets stuck. Thanks for the video - I am going to install a light from off the garage this way.
Another excellent video and one that might just save me getting an electrician in to fit a light in the shared path between my neighbour and myself. Clear and simple explanation. Top job!
Be careful if you wire it like that and your neighbour get a shock you would be liable to prosecution.
Very clearly explained, thank you. I could've done with finding this video before I fitted my outside lights, but there you go. Incidentally, that fourth connector on the timer, if it's not connected to anything at all, could that not have been used for earth?
A diyer who knows what they are doing, makes a change. I'm trained industrial, commercial and domestic electrician. They extra terminal in the timeclock may be a loop terminal for the earth, but unless stated on supplied wiring diagram your way is better. I would suggest to anyone doing this to make sure and use a 5amp or 3amp fuse in their plug top and not 13amp to keep fusing correct for size of cable. Job well done, thanks for video.
Thanks. Yes exactly - no details on what the extra terminal was for so best avoided. I should have made it clear I downgraded the fuse to 3amp.
Best DIY channel on TH-cam
Very kind of you to say that
Ditto...
Another clear & concise video Stuart. A lantern with a built in PIR/PEC would have done away with the timer (if the manufacturer had such a matching item).
Another good wee video. Remember to change fuse in plug as they come with 13 amp as standard. Also could swop timer for WiFi switch so could be controlled by Alexa etc.
Why is that important to do? Could you elaborate?
@@andriusantanaitis9922 Fuse-down as 1mm flex as used is rated to 10amps - you want the fuse to blow before the cable melts and catches fire
That marker is great, not seen that type before. Of course not breaking into the house electrics is also not risking breaking any regulations so great for the DIYer.
Exactly!
Great job. As teaching people who are not electrical workers this is a very easy tutorial. Thank you for sharing with us.
Glad you enjoyed it!
This popped up on my feed randomly and I ended up watching it all. Really well put together with clear explanations.
Thank you
The best diy channel on the tube.
Good video mate, very explanatory for anyone who has no prior electric knowledge. I had a giggle when I noticed you had to take the light back off to fit the bolts to screw the cover on, we’ve all been there and done that with those up/down lights haha!
Yes I remember that - what a pain!
Another great video.
I love that you include your little struggles and errors, such as the resistant sharpie pen.
Thank you
For one horrible moment, I thought we were going to hear "A Technical Term" when the Sharpie refused to budge...😱....🤣. Great videos, Stuart. Subscribed!
Adding grease onto the threads is a good idea to reduce the chance of rusting. Thanks for sharing.
Brilliant......I am crap at DIY but your videos are so good...easy to follow and full of very handy tips that may be obvious to the experienced man but not to a luddite like me - keep em coming and thanks very much.
I just installed an outside light following your instructions - thanks Stuart. One thing I changed is rather than a clunky analog switch I chose a WiFi and Alexa enabled bulb which is so much more this century 😊
I'm really enjoying being able to remember more and more clips from the intro
Nice job and really neat. The only addition to the install would have been to fit a lockable cable gland on the end of the conduit where the plug is. Would look neater and also prevent tugging the cable inside the conduit.
Was thinking the same. Plus I'd extend the conduitto nearly below the socket.
First time I’ve commented on your videos and I must say every video I’ve watched, your standard of work is first class!
Well thank you very much.
Neat job, looks really good. Thanks for sharing this great advice. I did a similar thing on the side of a outbuilding and it's been working well for several years.
Time to make a cup of tea and watch some quality DIY!
Nice one!
I don’t know anything about electrics but I’ve wanted these up/down lights either side of my garage for a few years but never got round to paying somebody to fit them.
Love your videos and I might even try fitting them myself now 👍🏼
Yep give it a go 👍
I love the fact you include a parts list in your description this helps us know exactly what you have used. You have though not mentioned what you use for "grease".
The uplighter part always seems to me to be a waste of electricity and adds to what us astronomers call light pollution. Do you think it serves any purpose?
Thanks. The grease is just multi purpose grease from Screwfix. The uplighter is just decorative and yes, adds to light pollution
This video was as well taped, edited, and the proper steps and equipment to use and how to install it as usual. That's why I love your videos. Everything is done Proper! There is a guy here in the States that has a woodworking channel but I refuse to watch it. Unlike you, where you explain and talk to the audience, this guy is so arrogant and full of himself and talks down to people. He is the opposite of you. Just for the record, give yourself a pat on the back for doing a bang up job with your channel! 👍👍!
Well thank you very much - very kind of you to say that. I try to make these videos as clear as possible while at the same time being not too serious so it's very nice to have feedback which tells me I'm doing that.
Did you change the fuse to a 1amp? Also I would have used a smart plug or timer as that would allow more control around daytime/nightime hour changes.
13A brown fuse in video 👍⚠️
I think u mean 3amp.
@@rodd8170 nope. Typically led gu10 are around 5w, so 10w for two, meaning a current draw of 0.041a @240v, or if they were old style drawing 100w in total that would be 0.41a
Yes u r right but the min size fuse for a 13amp plug is 3 amp. Now if u actually fitted a 1 amp fuse u would proberly find it will blow with initial surge current, which is why fuses are always higher than the normal load current.
@@iangriff2170 240v?
Timely video as I'm doing this next week! Think I'll use a smart socket instead though. Can schedule timer but also do triggers so that they come on when I arrive home got example.
1st time watching great for an enthusiastic DIY person such as myself, pretty sure I will be looking in again over the coming weeks
Welcome aboard!
Thanks for the video. I usually agree with you wholeheartedly on everything and learn several new tips and tricks in every video but I do sort of disagree with you on wiring the light into a socket. I can see why you've done it in your case but for most people it's not convenient to lose a socket or have trunking round the room.
I have a relatively new build so my walls are all hollow or dot and dab like yours and even as a relative amateur, doing this properly by running it to a fused connection unit spurred off the socket is incredibly easy.
I'm thinking that's quite a long flex. I may have used twin and earth all the way to the end of the conduit and then an FCU, then flex for a neater job than just flex running out of the conduit.
Great video. The question of 4 connectors at 12:42. Without looking at the connection box properly, could it be that the 4th connector is there to do exactly what you're using the WAGO type connector for? To be clear, I can't see the connection box clearly and therefore I'm asking a question rather than giving advice. I would always recommend taking professional advice in such circumstances.
Great videos. I've learnt a lot. Have you ever created a video on the installation of floodlights in/on/under a tree
Another fantastic video Stuart, ideally published as I have bought a light identical to replace an old coach style light, after having my soffit lights installed… this video has come at a perfect time for me as the tips you offered were things I hadn’t given consideration (ie) the grease, the silicone, sharpie gaff, and the conduit tutorial…. Absolutely brilliant information and instructions as always, keep them coming I look forward to these videos every week…. Fab
Thank you for your very kind comments. I'm glad to have given you some ideas!
The 4th connector looks like a place to loop the earth instead of using the wago.. Additionally, you should reduce the rating in the fused plug to 5amp as most ship with 13amp installed
5amp is still way too much. 1 amp would be better
Its more likely a standard backplate. 4 terminals for Live & Neutral in and Live & Neutral out. Theres a trend now for not switching the neutral to the load, so 3 connections are used.
The 4th terminal is blank, and probably could be used to carry earth connections, but it would be compromising the manufacturer's instructions.
Probably best using a wago in this instance anyway, as hes used soild T&E and stranded flexible cores.
It did look like a green coloured screw, so could be intended for earth
Nice to see you using proper 20mm pvc saddles for the conduit, and not those single fixing ones that look like copper pipe clips.
Nice video.
Thanks. Yes those copper clips look well out of date now - easy to get right these days with places like Screwfix around.
I've recently run a load of cables through conduit (they were previously just clipped to the wall) and found that the plastic pipe cutters I have for Speedfit pipe works a treat on the conduit.
Good tip - I'll have to invest in some
Another great video - well explained and filmed. Do you have the details of the cable clip/connectors you used in the box please? mant thanks..
You can fit a stuffing gland where the flex cable exits the conduit. This will act as strain relief and will look more pleasing to the eye.
Thank you dear, as always, a very well explained video, much appreciated. Take care and please be safe, from us in South Africa
Thank you - hi SA!
Very well explained can you do video on how to connect these outdoor lights together? Or do you have different points to turn them on separately? I mean like how to switch them on altogether. TIA
Great video.
I have a single outside garage light that is operated by one light switch. If I where to remove the light fixture would there only be one cable from switch to the light fixture? As the power source is taken from another switch that sits side by side.
Thanks a lot!!! However, if I want to connect the wires to the electric socket, do I connect the wires to the junction behind it? If I switch on or off the socket, will I switch off my light together as well?
How would this be completed without a timer? Can the plug still be installed??? Excellent video thank you
Stuart I do have watched a lot of you tube videos. You have a method and skill which is well presented. I appreciate the time you take to make these videos - I am confident with most things but you never know it all or have the best method everything builds your knowledge etc. With respect to the comments from some trades here showing displeasure what I can say is I have seen work carried out by “qualified trades” which has seen my blood pressure rise and following trades ! Traders sometimes people use these videos just to help them understand or learn not all will just rip into the house. PS. Stuart can you show us how to make a height adjustable soap box 🙂
Thank you for your positive feedback. One reason I do most of this myself is so I don't have to put up with the so called 'experts' doing half a job for me - so I totally agree with your comments. I like the height adjustable soap box pun!
I've done this two, but in addition I used a 3amp fuse at the plug. Belt and braces I suppose as the cabling is more than up to 13 Amp, but with an LED external light the load will be tiny.
Good clear instructions and using a plugged feed there's a fuse in there too 👍🇬🇧
Thank you for sharing.
Wonder if you could spread your knowledge.
I too have an upside down lamp, however i have a non metal touch switch. My issue is i can switch the light on internally however when switched off it should automatically detect motion(which it doesnt). How can i fix this? No earth wires connected.
Lovely work buddy, I am about to do almost exactly the same with some 240v down lighters with a dimmer switch. Plug and perm fix in a storage cupboard.
Go for it!
Brilliant video thanks I have started to fit my lights to each side of my garden shed 😀 looks amazing thank you 😊
Glad to help
Can I use the 1mm cable from the socket to the light. Still need to change the fuse? Nice work, you inspired me to do some work around the house. Thank you
Just installed outside lights using the methodology you've outlined in the film. Used a Kinetic switch for remote switching but basically the same as you've done. Great idea and very clear. Love being able to do this without having to get a minor works certificate from a qualified sparky.
Nice one - especially with the Kinetic switch!
Pleased to come across your channel - clear, precise and so very helpful - REAL DIY indeed, thanks!
Welcome!
Thanks for the video, very thorough, clear and some great tips that I wouldn't have thought of, like the right way up for the lights! I have some questions, and hope you can help. I have 12 outside lights to put up, to be powered from the garage, and having checked the light switch in the garage, it does not have an earth, so I will (presumably) have to go the same route as you did i.e., use a plug on the end connected to a garage socket. I have a couple of problems though - firstly, using your method, would I need to install a spur, or can I go directly from the plug socket, to the first light? I'm guessing no spur needed, but perhaps you could confirm? Secondly, 10 of the 12 lights are made of metal and have an earth connection accordingly, so they will need to be earthed (no problem, as the cable and T&E will cover that). However, two are plastic and do not have an earth. How can I wire them all up together? Would I simply bypass the earth connection on the two plastic lights (so just wiring up the live and neutral), and carry on to the 10 metal lights with all 3 wires (the earth bypassed from, and not connected to, the plastic light, and the live and neutral coming FROM the plastic light), or would it be better to have the two plastic lights at the end of the run, so terminate the earth connection at light no.10, with just the live and neutral continuing to the plastic lights? I wanted to start the run with the plastic lights as they will be on their own and are virtually the same as the other 10, but not exactly, hence I want them separate from the others so the difference isn't noticeable. I also have the issue of not a timer, but a Sensky Photocell Sensor Switch Dusk to Dawn (see Am@zon), which I will need to install outside, so that the lights will automatically switch on when dark. I'm assuming I should have that at the beginning of the run, before any lights, but can you confirm? The sensor does NOT have an earth connection, so would I again bypass the sensor and just continue the earth wire to the first light, along with the live and neutral from the sensor? The item on Am@zon shows the connections i.e., 2 x live, and 2 x neutral. Lastly, I will be running 6W LED lights, so total load will be 72 watts. Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the videos.
What if I wanted to fit more than one light but just use the one plug socket?
Thanks for your video. I tried to replace the led lights, found the lids stuck and not able to open. Any suggestions?
I’ve recently done the same with a couple of lights either side of garage door, very relieved to find I’d done it much the same way as you, Stuart. Great channel
Nice one! Thanks for the comments.
Did you wire each light to the same timer?
Well I never knew about there being male and female fittings on the lamp. Makes perfect sense now you've told us. And I can confirm that not greasing the threads causes problems later on.
I've found that its always the up facing bulb that needs replacing most often, which surprises me as you'd have thought the heat in the downward bulb would cause failure first. Great video.
Nice one. That's funny, I've also found the upward bulb failing more often!
Looked like a 13amp fuse in the plug, did you change it after? 13amp is a bit big for one light. Otherwise a nice neat job, well explained.
Yes I did - changed for a 3amp to protect the cable
This is brilliant. Only change I would make is analogue timer for smart switch.
Thanks. yes you could do. I walk passed this switch a number of times a day so very easy for me to change the settings etc
Great video as always. I'm in the US so the details don't always translate, but the process is spot on. Thanks again.
Cool, thanks
Great video. Thinking of doing this. Can you link more outside lights in series? Any tips. Want to add 4 lights.
Thanks
I used lights with built in dusk to dawn photocell operation. Effective all year round and probably cheaper than a timer. Just needs an isolating switch. My problem is I am very close to the sea and many manufacturers say their lamps are not suitable. As they are all stainless steel I don't know why. The problem is they are lacquer coated and the lacquer deteriorates.
About to fit my own outside lights but I will need to get into my lighting circuit proper for it. One thing that I don’t understand is why didn’t you just put the white plug cable through directly to to the light. Why use the 1mm T&E ?
I'd recommend smart bulbs if you can for the GU10 bulbs (or any light really) Energizer do GU10's for around £5 each and you can schedule timings to come on / off automatically, and can schedule them to come on at dusk etc. V useful and so cheap now. Nice vid btw.
Great video, I liked the helpful hints about using the 15mm pipe through the wall, the use of silicone to fix the cable and pipe in place, and the orientation of the light and fitting. One observation I'd make is the necessity of an earthing sleeve on the bare earth wire. I look forward to future videos.
Thanks. The sleeve on the earth wire is an industry standard practice. Personally, I don't think you need it but if I don't put it in I get a lot of flack from the electricians who watch these videos!
Battery LED PIR lights have came on leaps and bounds last few years. Much more powerful and battery life good.
For most non DIYers it's a better option.
Not if you're facing north
It certainly is very important that the light fitting is earthed but how do you know it is earthed if you do not test to verify the continuity of the circuit protective conductor?
When terminating fine stranded conductors into a plug top or for that matter any screwed connection ferrules should be used to ensure a good connection & to prevent damage to the conductors.
Great video. I did something similar recently, but chose to have the light have a regular plug on the end, and use a plug-through timer. This way I could use a smart plug with an app, which actually worked out cheaper than even the basic analog timer, and allowed me much more flexibility in setting.
Hi, great video and very helpful to me as I’m planning to install 3 outdoor lights to my garages! My question is … the lights I plan to install are remote control colour changing up down lights . So would the remote still turn them on and off while they are run through the timer which would be set for specific times?? Hope I’ve explained that ok
Well that was straightforward, what could possibly go wrong? 😱 Very clear and simple guide. Excellent 👍🏻
Great instruction video. Detailed and straightforward. Thanks Stuart.
So basically a way to fit an outside light but only if it is on a wall that you are happy running a cable up, you want a timer almost out of reach up the wall and you have a spare plug nearby!
Most outside lights will be on the house wall and the garage probably not have power nearby. (If that is you then run the feed from the nearest existing light).
The four terminals is probably that it is a double switch to turn off the neutral and the live as is needed on some fittings.
Great video, exactly what I’m looking for.
For the timer, would it be possible to connect two wires (i.e. to operate two lights).
Wasn't the fourth connector your earth block, saving the need for a wago?
What advantage was there to using 1.5mm twin and earth between the light and timer compared to running 1mm flex all the way through from the plug? That way you wouldn't need to brake into the earth and make a join with the wago connector. It also means the earth is continuous between the plug and the light.
Wiring regulations and best practice. Flexible cable is made up of strands of copper wire, T&E is solid copper wire. Lighting circuits in the UK are 1.5mm T&E which takes a terminal screw without the risk of breaking strands. He used a flexible cable as he was terminating to a plug, which could be subject to movement when plugging and unplugging (just as you would with a table lamp) hence the need for flexible cable, as well as clearly showing the light in question is being supplied from a power circuit. As he said "it's not recommended" but it's not a crime and perfectly acceptable. Good job and a quick fix.
Because he needed to connect timer in circuit therefore couldnt go straight from plug to light.
Today I leant that you can use a combi drill as a saw horse... nice, every day a skool day ;-)
Yes, and before this project I didn't know that either.
How does that shine any light & does this not come under part p of installation?
Great video! I hope you used LED GU10 bulbs in these fixtures for extra long life!
Nicely done! And you still gain a bigger audience, I'll be there when you get your 100K!
Thank you - moving there slowly!
great video
How could i link up multiple lights off the same plug? wanting to light up a new fence
How do you do it with multiple new outdoor light fittings all across the wall from the front, side and back of the house?
Handy video! Could the fourth terminal be for screwing both earth wires in?
It could be but didn't say so anywhere so I decided best not to use it
@@ProperDIY yeah fair enough - and I'd always much rather use a Wago either way!
Can you install 2 or 3 of these going to the same wago connector and single plug?
Any chance you could do a short video how to wire a ‘dusk to dawn’ sensor to an existing light. I know the sensor only has 3 wires but i get confused when they talk about load and live !
I’m hoping to put a lamp post in my garden, I’ve got outdoor sockets already close to where I want the lamp post, could I just put a plug on the end of it and plug it in?
Hi there, just wondering about the fourth connector in the timer, if not connected to anything in the timer circuit, is it a loop connector to be used for CPC (earth) so avoiding need for jointing connector
I have smart bulbs in my outside lights, that way I can programme them to come on when it gets dark and go off at midnight. As it gets darker earlier or later it automatically adjusts.
Your videos are so satisfying to watch. Really well explained as well. 👍
Thank you very much!
Nice video, I have a 4lite fitting that looks the same but it has 2 white wires and an earth, how do I connect that to the house wiring that has a black , red and earth?
How is a timer work, I mean how you set time..????.. it's a beautiful work Sir
That grease tip is great 👍🏽