They are called spacer bar saddles , your earth that you wrapped around the scew on the din rail( rail that holds the breakers ) should be wrapped around the screw in a clockwise Manor . Yours is anticlockwise wise and when to tighten the screw tge loop opens .
Just completed the job this morning. Needed pretty much the same as your garage, double light switch etc. Your instructions were so clear, I switched it on and it all worked first time including a couple of fused spurs to an outside socket and door controller. Fiddly in places but your video gave me the confidence to attempt it. Brilliant, thank you so much. 😊🙏
I am so pleased I discovered your channel. During most of this video I assumed you were a qualified electrician. I can see you do everything as far as I am concerned "to the book" or the 18th edition regs as is now. I am just like yourself , I adore doing domestic electrical work ( for my self .in my personal property ) ,and have a good guy who knows my work and will test and certify it. Most electricians will fire abuse at people for doing this and I can understand it when most "DIYers" will end up with a dangerous situation when they attempt this kind of work However , there are a few of us that actually love to do this work for ourselves , are passionate about everything done properly and closely follow detailed info to keep to the regs. I have books on the past editions and also the 18th and always ask my qualified friend about any detail I want clarifying. Thank you for showing me that there are others like yourself that undertake this work to a professional standard whilst not actually being qualified, I have always felt a little guilty and would never mention it to other electricians for fear of their reaction. Any way, as you stated at the end though it is critical you get the work professionally tested and certified. That is a must........
Great stuff! I think I followed one of your previous videos years ago to convert some old gas light fittings with an electrical installation. It took ages, but i was super careful. I got my local, very experienced sparky in and he signed all my work off no problem and was happy with the work. It gave me confidence to do simple wiring, and I was able to have a good discussion with the electrician about the job I had done. Many thanks indeed!
I’m no electrician but you have made this job look extremely simple. I have now decide to change my own garage consumer unit and adding more sockets. I am lucky enough to have 2 friends who will check my work through out the job.
Don't do the job like him a fault will switch off every circuit all mcbs use rcbo's a fault will only switch off the one faulty circuit not them all because if the RCD trips all circuits go off
@@JohnDundee-el2ro Im doing the job my self just for the experience. I did say that I have 2 friends who will check my work through out the job. Not thing will be used until the job has been completed and check by a qualified electrician.
Thanks Pouse. I have just instaled a 3 way unit in my 16ft workshop. Just wanted to make sure i had done it correctly. And i have. You'd have been a god send if i hadn't got a clue though. Nice tidy job. Thanks for sharing.
The casing on the consumer unit was already earthed, you can see the silver bus bar in the first screw terminal on the left on the earth bar which is then connected to the case with the screw holding the earth & neutral bars in place. Why do you need an FCU for your outside socket? If you are just extending the radial you can just connect the outdoor socket straight to your end of line socket. Unless you want to be able to isolate the socket? Could just get an isolator without the fuse.
Cost of electricity, it's always sensible to have a switched supply for external sockets, questionable of course if it needed to be fused but not all products are fused, especially if some sort of transformer is used.
I’m really glad I watched this, The wiring of the metal enclosure is brilliant to mention. I’ve done a fuse box move in the garage recently and I’m due to put a new socket ring in which it metal so spot on in terms of timing. Thanks so much
A long but informative and engaging video. Easy to be a keyboard warrior but it takes time, skill and patience to put it all together and these things are often overlooked. Yes, others may be better at it but similarly, many are here because they want the help - including me! Thank you for your efforts. I’ll undertake this project soon to add power and lighting to a detached outbuilding.✌️
Awesome video, super detailed and answered all my questions. Even small things like the good camera setup meant I could zoom and see what’s wired to what. Thank you 🙌
Your just like me. I like to do things myself, lots of research and take my time. The problem is these days the so called time served tradespeople including electricians have no pride in there work. I should know i worked along side of them for years. Most of them bodge. Nothing wrong with doing it yourself and getting it tested afterwards. Good video.
@jameshansing5396 I have just had a napit accredited so called electrician change a consumer unit for me. His work was nothing more than shoddy at best. The consumer unit is pissed,the blanks he used were plastic and not steel, he has stapled cables on top of joists in the attic because he was to lazy to lift the loft insulation. At least I know how to terminate and clip cables correctly and do take pride in what I do eg using a spirit level. This is why some people do this work themselves, which I do not agree with if they are not competent. I have been working in engineering since leaving school in 1973 and have seen some of the abortions that some electricians perform.
One suggestion, and it's part of the regs. You need some metal fixings for the conduit, particularly the bit that runs through the roof space. It's to do with entanglement in the event of a fire.
its not pointless if your garage burns down the firefighters dont get caught up in the cables that's why its in the regs it dont matter what you think is pointless or not its not about you and what YOU think this is the problem with hobby sparks and youtube videos and how to do things WRONG
@Shawnmc-el1pn do you think a firefighter will enter the garage to put it out? Their hoses spray water about 50x further than the length of my garage. Sometimes the regs need some common sense applied. Thanks for the comment though 👍
Its regulations to fit fire retardant fixings on ALL cable runs now. Also, you've fitted new circuits without notifying your local building authority. You're also not a legally recognised competent person. I've forwarded your details to your Local Building Authority and forwarded your video to them. Please stop teaching bodgers how to cause problems.
Tidy work mate ,keep it up . I wired up my garage/workshop back in 1999 ,when it was ok to do your home electrics I saw my self as a competent person. I buried 6mm cable under the garden to a metal consumer unit an old Crabtree C50 box. I fitted 10 , 5ft fluorescent lights and 12 MK double sockets on a ring main. But I won't do electrical jobs now, I will change a single to a double socket or fit a new light but no big electrical work, I will do the basics . great video ,you done a good job mate take care👍
@@mustardcrumbles 6mm swa and a crabtree c50 metal fuseboard with c50 old size rating mcb 2 light circuits at 5 amps ring main at 30 amps ,fixed tool circuit ( bench saw , bench grinder and bench top drill on a 15 amp circuit each tool fused ) and 3 , 5 amp sockets ( round pin ) via a 5 amp fuse on a 5 amp mcb all based on at the time 16th edition
When drilling into brickwork I just tape an old envelope or plastic bag to the wall directly under the hole being drilled to catch the brick dust. Far easier than trying to hold a vacuum cleaner nozzle with one hand while controlling the drill with the other (single) hand.
Nice job mate 👍🏼.When your containment for the works is done in conduit, it’s much easier to wire in single cores, instead of twin&cpc. That’s usually how we do it on jobs it’s common practice. That way you don’t have to keep removing the conduit to fish the cable down etc it just pulls through really easily! Good work though, enjoyed the run through of what you were doing. Very well explained 👍🏼
I’m replacing an existing double socket in a garage with a metal clad box and galv conduit, currently both plastic. Getting two T&E through the galv is a squeeze but doable. To keep the two wires straight and to make it easier to pull through I have wrapped the two t&e together in electrical tape. Any potential issues with this?
@@olivershemwell9637 me personally if I had to run in galvanised steel conduit, I would run it in 25mm galvanised steel conduit instead of 20mm. 20mm will be tight to squeeze 2x 2.5 twin + cpc cables through, it’s manageable, but I would also advise getting “electrical fishing rods” from any electrical wholesaler, that will make the job much easier. They basically just screw on to each other male and female end, then tape your cables on to the ends of the rod but make sure they’re tied flat to the rod, makes it easier to run the cables through the containment, hope that works for you 👍🏼
That earth terminal bar in the CU is already connected to the metal case of the CU. There is a metal strap, up in the top left. It fits underneath the mounting screw on the very top left of the cu and the leftmost screw on the earth terminal bar fastens down onto it. Look to the mounting screw on the very top left and there is no strap there (which is just as well, as that is the neutral bar). That's an extremely good job by the way, although to save effort in the future, then maybe 6mm^2 cable from the house CU would have been a good idea as if you want to use that 32A breaker that length of cable will need to be changed. nb. very tidy work.
I agree, having done this in the garden recently, it’s easier to measure and cut the cable and then add each piece of conduit to the open end of the cable (which will of course be straight)
Nice job, i did very similar myself recently. I marked/drilled forr the conduit first using a laser level but i think i prefer your method to be honest! Only thing id mention is you dont always need to use those pre formed bends, you can use a bending spring for a few quid and bend the conduit to any angle you need. Takes a bit of practise but looks much neater. I think also technically you are supposed to chemically fix the end/joints to the conduit but i dont know anyone who does that in practice. When i reached the rsfters i just clipped my cabler to the timbers rather than use conduit as its easier but fair play for going all the way for neatness!
It's called 'Mechanical Protection' which is required on All Exposed Wires, the idea being that you can't catch the Exposed Wires by mistake & Shock Yourself or Anyone Who Catches the Wires at a later date
Is it normal there to use sheathed cable inside of conduit? In the US you are supposed to have all conduit in place and be able to pull the wire afterwards. We use individual wires in conduit not "romex" or NM sheathed cable.
7:05 You don't really need to drill them out - they are also knocksouts (yep I didn't know that either for 2 years and was shocked when I accidentially decided to try knocking them out, and that worked perfectly, they require very small amout of strenght, just make sure you are knocking them out from inside out, I recommend to put something below consumer in the center to rise it up nicely)
Love the video, great job, i use those fischer duo power plugs myself all the time now, dont use anything else. 6 and 8 mm. Great in plasterboard or block walls.
Question: Can i use this conduit inside the house for wall sockets. So the wiring is not inside the wall or the sockets. Both are on the wall with conduit. Is that still within regulations. Its for a rental property but i dont want to grind/chase the walls but rather use conduit for the 2.5mm scoket cables. Can i do that based on electronic regulation?
Just use electrical conduit. It's designed for inside properties, it's screwed to the wall, you run your cables in then clip cover over the top. Best of luck.
As the garage CU is a secondary CU, can this still be fitted by a DIY-er and remain compliant with Part P? Part P has a slight grey area on reg 12(6A) that replacement of an existing CU is notifiable, but then so is the installation of a new circuit. I already have a garage circuit in place registered with my local building control from when the garage was added 18-ish years ago; but this is sitting on a 30A isolator for everything - lighting, sockets & boiler (I bought the house last year btw - wasn't my design). For obvious reasons it would make sense to install a garage CU with correctly rated breakers for the circuits - the lighting is currently 'protected' by the 30A (who signed this off 20+ years ago??). But, current Part P dictates that replacement CU's need to be a lot lower down between 1350mm and 1450mm hence my reluctance to switchover from a single isolator to a CU, as the current isolator is high-up and away from potential damage that could occur in a garage/workshop environment
Hi, I guess the reason I did this myself is that it wasn't connected to the consumer unit in the house at the time of my work which meant technically I didn't breach any rules and any DIYer (if competent) could do the same if a qualified and competent electrician can inspect and test the work prior to connecting to the mains. As for secondary consumer unit installation being compliant, I would think you are adding new circuits which would then be notifiable work, but I take your point, that the circuit already exists. Probably best to have a read of the regs in detail (which will be fun!) or check with a qualified electrician. Sorry that probably wasn't much help but best of luck with it. Let me know how you get on and thanks for watching 👍
You would need to notify building control and they would send an electrician out to check the work and sign it off, be cheaper to pay an electrician to do the job
@@jamesbrentnall2 Yes exactly as I suspected, its that this video does come across to a DIY-er that THEY can install any secondary CU's, which is why I raised the question.
@@codenamenel Not me, I only raised the question as this video is quite suggestive to DIY-ers who may not have read or even be aware of what they can/cannot do under Part P / BS7671:2018. There are soo many videos on YT of sparks visiting houses and seeing these DIY wiring nightmares (thinking Artisan Electrics right now), hence why I raised it here - be a point of explanation to any other DIY-ers who having seen this video, might be thinking "gonna wire on a garage CU as they're only £20 in B&Q, and they're as easy as wiring a socket init". As for me, you misread this: my garage is already hot, with lighting, sockets and my boiler all installed and checked by BC more than a decade before I bought the house. My only issue is that all three circuits are protected by a single 30A breaker, but its in a good location out of the way. My opinion is that each of these circuits SHOULD be on their own breakers appropriate to the circuit so 5A for the lights, 7A for the boiler and then 30A for the sockets (although in all honesty, this could be reduced given the loading). But as a notifiable install, this will mean that a new unit will have to meet the regulation 1350mm - 1450mm off the floor, which is in a terrible location for a workshop.
Any solvent weld on the PVC conduit? Maybe you could have used less runs by using a larger trunking run at roof level and just dropped in 20mm to the sockets, then you could could have shared the sockets and lights in the same run.
If I'm not mistaken the CU is already earthed, look at the screw to the top left, it has a metal bar going from the screw to the earth bar AT 49.50. Good job though.
Interesting, I'll take a look and see. I thought it was all insulated by plastic around it but I'll whip front off and have another look now. Thanks for watching 👍
@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE I was about to comment the same. Top left screw has a metal plate running from the screw to the first hole of the earthing strip. And not sure about the fly lead on the lid. Me knows pretty sure it would be supplied by manufacturer if required....
@@Richard1977 The cover will be earthed via the 4 mounting screws. I have yet to see a CU which requires a flying lead, and I doubt one exists. The CU metal boxes never have to carry a full fault current, so don't need a particularly low resistance path anyway.
In the U S A we cannot run Romex cable ( what you refer to in mm) in conduit unless the outside sheath is removed. This is to prevent heat building up in the cable. It appears things are done differently in your country. We also have conduit fill regulations which dictate the number of conductors we can fit into a conduit.
Normally with any significant length of sheathed cables running through conduit, you'd use some sort of a derating factor so that the current level in these cables is less than for single conductors.
Was surprised you had to innovate your own way to earth the housing of the consumer unit itself. Did the manufacturers not provide any instructions for when not using metal conduit? Great video and lovely to see your son taking and interest! 👍
If you look up to the top left of the CU, that earth terminal bar is already connected to the case. There is a metal strap which is connected underneath mounting screw on the very top left of the CU. That strip then runs to the right and the leftmost screw in the earth terminal bar fastens down onto it. Look at the mounting screw on the top right and you'll see that strap doesn't exist. So I think that extra earth cable is solving a non-existent problem.
I hope you used some metal saddles so that the installation was compliant with current regulations and the correct spacings for horizontal and vertical supports were followed. It would definitely make your life easier to use singles when working with conduit, and a draw tape is a much better solution than using rods. Very good clear and concise instructions though for the learners.
@@angelofranklin1 that regs been changed to the whole installation rather than just cables that were above escape routes. You are getting mixed up with the 17th edition regs. Regulation 521.10.202
At 34:07 you messed up,,,,, you're required to Bond the back box as if the socket screws are out the back box can become live with no CPC/Earth Protection
Just a quick question. I wasn't able to get through the entire vid yet, so maybe it's already been explained. I spoke to an electrician to have mine done and he is insisting that we run an armoured cable from the meter box to the garage instead of taking the feed from the home CU. Just wanted to make sure he isn't charging me for extra work and materials or anything? The home CU is directly on the other side of the wall of my garage, less than 5m away.
If you have two solid lugs on the back box no need or requirement to run a earth lead from the accessory to the back box, if two adjustable lugs then you must earth accessory to back box, if one solid and one adjustable then it is recommended/desirable to earth. However I just installed fourteen metal clad back box’s with solid lugs and ran an earth from accessory to back box on each one.
No matter what lugs are on a backbox it’s always better to add a fly lead from accessory to box , regs say that all power should be off before removing a faceplate but obviously that isn’t the case most of the time so if there isn’t a fly lead attached to the faceplate as soon as you remove the screws the faceplate then has no earth and has the potential to become live via something such as a loose connection 👍
Very tidy work there sir,should have used singles could and would have pulled through that all with out dismantling also you need to run a fly lead from back box to front plate. 😉 keep it up
If you go to my other channel POUSE outta the HOUSE all will be revealed! You can click here for the channel - th-cam.com/channels/YekQPS0Jk2C2sj1sHUb3GA.html
If cost isnt a issue that's fine. This is only one way of doing this type of install it's not the way I would do it but it wasnt my job. Your main mistake is that your trying to hard and making it to complicated if you would have put in your own sets bends the cable would run a lot smoother you would also be better off with a nylon fish tape. Dont misunderstand me it will be a fine installation when its finished one day😂😂. Removing all the fittings to get cables in is just so time consuming.
I looked into this myself for a very similar job in my garage and it definitely looks easier to work with but singles is a bit of a pain for smaller jobs as you have to buy a big reel of each colour and really you need to buy/make something to hold them while you reel them off. Plus if you need to mix sizes of cables you need even more cable. I just went with twin and earth myself in the end. Can get 2x 2.5mm in a 20mm conduit without too much difficulty. Any more would be a struggle.
RCD is type A. Clips are plastic. Whilst I appreciate metal clips should be used on ceilings, the garage is a few meters long and has access from both ends. I made that decision rightly or wrongly to maintain the aesthetics by using plastic throughout. Can I just say efixx is a great channel as is Gaz's channel, congrats to all on the success of both channels, well deserved. Please feel free to critique my video, that's how we learn. Thanks for the questions 👍
Yes, but the rafters are hugely out and my 90 degree bends would have to be forced to something more like a 70 degree bend. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching 👍
For the sockets cld you have run a ring for dble the ampacity? or are regs saying no more new rings just radials? And the condiuet run looks about what I wld have done in the states. Not sure if I wld have gone pvc or metal 🤔
Yes could have done a ring, just no need really for what I need. I chose plastic partly because I had a load left over from another job, and it's way cheaper than metal. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching 👍
The reason is for discrimination (selectivity now), ideally like he said in the video the supply would have been 4mm or 6mm from a 32A MCB, the 16A radials then comply with the 2:1 rule of thumb for selectivity. Now it is 20A/16A which isn't ideal but it is what it is. He has a spare way so if there is too much load on the radial then there is the option of having a second radial. The reason we are concerned about discrimination here is it could be dangerous if you are working and the main supply trips out plunging you in darkness. I personally would install an Emergency light in there to mitigate this and other potential loss of power situations.
To anyone thinking of fitting a consumer unit on their garage like this please be aware that this are new circuits so is notifiable work under Part P. You can do this yourself but you need to notify building control before starting work, fill out all the appropriate forms, pay the council the money and comply with the appropriate regulations. You will probably have to demonstrate that you have designed the installation correctly and considered all the regulations and thought about voltage drop, selectivity, etc. It will need testing which the council should do. Trouble is that the council will likely charge you more than it would cost to get a sparky to do the job.
Not required if an electrician tests, inspects and signs off on your behalf but you need to find/know an electrician happy to do this. The alternative as you said is notify building control and they will send an electrician to do the same. Thanks for watching 👍
There are 2 routes you can go for doing electrical work such as this that is notifiable: Route one, is notify building control yourself through your council- this however requires you notifying BEFORE any work is done, if you notify after the work is done the fee will over double as a 'regularisation' (retrospective) charge will be applied. Route two is as above and find an electrician to test and certify the work. Now this is tricky as for one the electrician MUST be registered with a CPS (competent persons scheme) like NICEIC, and it is the CPS who will actually notify building control. The electrician also cannot just inspect and sign off your work - they have to effectively pretend they did all the work and issue certificates as if they did the work. There is no official mechanism in place for a registered electrician to inspect and 'sign off' someone else's work in a retrospective fashion.......unless it is an electrician sent by building control in the retrospective route one example. So you need a friendly electrician who is willing to sign off work as if they actually did all the work from start to finish and they must be CPS registered as otherwise it is pointless as building control will not be notified.
I started a drinking game in which I had a shot every time I heard the word ‘conduit’ but after getting shit faced in the first 10 minutes I had to change it to one every 10 times I heard it!!! Subscribed 👍🏼
Congratulations, honestly you doing a nice job, and I believe you are a better lots electrician up there with your experience in installation you can be an electrician if you want, keep the good job
Link here - www.toolstation.com/bg-metal-garage-consumer-unit-ip65/p42830?store=UR&mkwid=_dm&pcrid=&pkw=&pmt=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA67CrBhC1ARIsACKAa8Qzn7izrXQDvkIbbAppEoUrqB7Xzx_5CHr8rvNq_Hsn-pUqSMHFiSAaAn0yEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
I want to do the same in my garage but having 2 gang switch to power 2 different lights, I was planning to run the live from the CU directly in the common of 1 switch and bridge into another switch, then return from L1 from both switches to the lights. Is this a good approach? Very good detailed video bdw 👍
As suggested by other stranded singles would have made the job a lot easier. Also the two T&E's cables from the house consumer could have both fed the garage consumer unit giving you more power in the garage (32 Amps) Should the conduit be glued into the fittings? Also in garages consider the lighting when the garage door is open.
Agree with both of those comments, but in the end it was suitable for my needs with potential to use one cable for the shed in future. As for adhesive, not really, it's indoor application and conduit isn't required anyway, just looks good and offeres physical protection which is more than ample in that environment. Thanks for the feedback 👍
It's a neat job you done and safe but I just think the consumer unit low down at the switch and the socket just does not look right also you should have used singles cables 1.5 and 2.5 they go through the 20mm plastic conduit easy and it's easier to connect everything
shouldn't have two rcd's of the same type, potentially the second rcd can stop the first one from working and make other circuits in the house un-protected
Totally agree it would really just be nuisance tripping upstream, implying to someone looking for a fault that there was something wrong with the sub main.
I understand how you have your feed in to your garage that is from Your CCU in your home , however where and what exactly does it come from? And what size cable is supplying power your garage ?
I explained it all in the video. CU in house has 20amp MCB, 2.5mm cable from this to main switch in CU in garage. Then 16amp MCB provides power to sockets via 2,5mm twin & earth cable in radial circuit. 6amp mcb provides power to lighting via 1.5mm Twin & earth cable in radial circuit. Hope that helps. Watch the video in detail, it's all explained. Thanks for watching.
I was just wondering: the wiring for the sockets goes all the way round the garage to the door that is near the CU. Why didn't you take the shorter route for the socket by the door by knocking out the right side of the socket as well, and go up and over the door and down to the socket? Is it because a radial isn't allowed go both ways or something?
That's right, a radial goes from one socket to the next until you get to the end. I could have gone one way or the other, or potentially doubled back on myself but this was the neatest way to do it in my installation.
Hi, I am about to start cabling for my garage and found this video really helpful. I just wanted to know, did your electrician signoff and connect your cable to the consumer unit in the house, without changing anything.
If you know an electrician that is happy to connect it to the mains and test it afterwards, then you can do anything I did in the video as it is a dead circuit. But you may not find someone happy to do that. Obviously your standard of work will have to meet the requirements of the part P regulations (in Wales and England). It's different for other countries so always check your building regulations or codes first. Thanks for watching.
I've just fitted a shower switch with an indicator light (previous switch didn't have the light) but the indicator light is always illuminated whether the switch is on or off, does this mean I've got the feed cable the wrong side of the switch? ❤️🇬🇧
Sounds like you may have switched the neutral not the line. The indicator light could always be on though to signify supply to the switch but that would be odd.
@@davideyres955 thank-you, I just followed what was there before, basically just changed the faceplate with the switch, the previous one had no indicator built in so anyway, I'll change the feed and switched around, thanks again. 👍
I've taken the power straight to the switch, so those cables are, one twin and earth from switch to light, and one 3 core and earth to the other switch to provide 2 way switching from the other end of garage. If you watch to the end you'll see me connect them all up.
Which circuit protective device are you referring to? The MCB protecting each garage circuit, the RCD on the garage consumer unit, the MCB on the house consumer unit providing protection to the garage consumer unit, or the RCD on the house consumer unit protecting all of it?
The light wire is sharing the conduit with 3 core and earth for 2 way switching so no more room. Also it runs in different direction to my socket conduit. So I'm not really sure what you mean in this situation.
As you said you run two 2.5 twin and earth cables. You could have connected the 2.5 cables in parallel to a 32 amp breaker at the house consumer unit (on the non protected side) and used separate rcbo's for an improved selective. Inside your garage consumer this would inable the protection of 20A for the sockets and 6A for the lighting circuit.
Fantastic video buddy. Everything explained nicely. You just know an army of sparks, thinking themselves molecular physicists or Nobel laureates in medicine, are about to snarl and squeal at someone daring to dabble in their 110 IQ-required profession.
Maybe! But as mentioned in the video, this was all done with no connection to the main consumer unit so hopefully they'll be OK with it, we'll see! Thanks for watching 👍
The thing is. Neither of you know how much you don't know. Dunning-krueger in action. Everything is easy when you have no clue. What do you do for a living? Recruitment? Yours... A 110iq sparks apparently.
Not really I think most electricians are just concerned about having it tested properly before use. Most amateurs don’t have the correct test equipment as it’s pretty pricey or the training to know what the test figures mean. I’m guilty of being one of those annoying pros by the way lol.but from what I can see you did a pretty good job of it .
@@travoltasbiplane1551 The irony. It’s “Dunning-Kruger”. Moreover, you have absolutely no idea how little or how much I know, as I’ve not opined anything electrical-related in this discussion, for you to make such an assessment. Finally, your last barb just shows your level of logical reasoning. I never stated all electricians have a 110-IQ, just that that is the intelligence minimum required.
@@MarcusT86 Ah yes the irony... a spelling mistake made whilst writing on a phone whilst having a shit... clearly indicative of my level of intelligence... 👋 What is actually ironic is that I just googled where a 110 IQ puts a person and its actually an above average IQ... Some websites describe it as 'superior intelligence'. Whoops. So either I owe you an apology for not realising your original post was actually complimenting electricians or perhaps you should be a bit more careful with your 'facts' particularly if this is the minimum level required for an electrician.... particularly if you're trying to insult them. So what do you do for a living and how are you so informed as to what an electrician (a decent one not a wire puller) does and does not need to be capable of? My logical reasoning sees someone backtracking on his original statement inferring that electricians think themselves molecular physicists etc. which was plainly intended as an insult. You claim you haven't opined anything electrical but you have validated that everything was explained nicely in the video. It explained very little and there were multiple non-compliances, mistakes and misinformation in evidence. This isn't his fault. Its just that he's a diyer... almost certainly like you. But he is also showing people how to do things on the internet so expect comment. Dunning-KRUGER effect in evidence because you you diminish the opinion of trained professionals because I suspect, given your interactions to date, you think you're something better.
wrapped the earth wire on the unit with the screw the wrong way, but in your case, it did not matter because the wire was trapped in the keyhole for the screw so could not come loose. just a point.
I can tell you aren't a real electrician. You cleaned up after yourself 😂
🤣🤣
lol
They are called spacer bar saddles , your earth that you wrapped around the scew on the din rail( rail that holds the breakers ) should be wrapped around the screw in a clockwise Manor . Yours is anticlockwise wise and when to tighten the screw tge loop opens .
What age are you 80 all electricians carry brushes shovels and Hoover's nowadays and if you don't leave the job spotless you would be Doon the road
That and four screws in a switch. How heavy handed are you lol.
Just completed the job this morning. Needed pretty much the same as your garage, double light switch etc. Your instructions were so clear, I switched it on and it all worked first time including a couple of fused spurs to an outside socket and door controller. Fiddly in places but your video gave me the confidence to attempt it. Brilliant, thank you so much. 😊🙏
I am so pleased I discovered your channel. During most of this video I assumed you were a qualified electrician. I can see you do everything as far as I am concerned "to the book" or the 18th edition regs as is now. I am just like yourself , I adore doing domestic electrical work ( for my self .in my personal property ) ,and have a good guy who knows my work and will test and certify it. Most electricians will fire abuse at people for doing this and I can understand it when most "DIYers" will end up with a dangerous situation when they attempt this kind of work However , there are a few of us that actually love to do this work for ourselves , are passionate about everything done properly and closely follow detailed info to keep to the regs. I have books on the past editions and also the 18th and always ask my qualified friend about any detail I want clarifying.
Thank you for showing me that there are others like yourself that undertake this work to a professional standard whilst not actually being qualified, I have always felt a little guilty and would never mention it to other electricians for fear of their reaction. Any way, as you stated at the end though it is critical you get the work professionally tested and certified. That is a must........
Thanks for the feedback 👍
It's not a 'Must' It's a Legal Requirement
Great stuff! I think I followed one of your previous videos years ago to convert some old gas light fittings with an electrical installation. It took ages, but i was super careful. I got my local, very experienced sparky in and he signed all my work off no problem and was happy with the work. It gave me confidence to do simple wiring, and I was able to have a good discussion with the electrician about the job I had done. Many thanks indeed!
Glad to help and thanks for watching 👍
I’m no electrician but you have made this job look extremely simple. I have now decide to change my own garage consumer unit and adding more sockets. I am lucky enough to have 2 friends who will check my work through out the job.
Thanks for watching 👍
Don't do the job like him a fault will switch off every circuit all mcbs use rcbo's a fault will only switch off the one faulty circuit not them all because if the RCD trips all circuits go off
@@JohnDundee-el2ro Im doing the job my self just for the experience. I did say that I have 2 friends who will check my work through out the job. Not thing will be used until the job has been completed and check by a qualified electrician.
Thanks Pouse. I have just instaled a 3 way unit in my 16ft workshop. Just wanted to make sure i had done it correctly. And i have. You'd have been a god send if i hadn't got a clue though. Nice tidy job. Thanks for sharing.
Glad to help. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for explaining each and every bit step by step. You are a good instructor.
Thanks for the feedback.
The casing on the consumer unit was already earthed, you can see the silver bus bar in the first screw terminal on the left on the earth bar which is then connected to the case with the screw holding the earth & neutral bars in place.
Why do you need an FCU for your outside socket? If you are just extending the radial you can just connect the outdoor socket straight to your end of line socket.
Unless you want to be able to isolate the socket? Could just get an isolator without the fuse.
Cost of electricity, it's always sensible to have a switched supply for external sockets, questionable of course if it needed to be fused but not all products are fused, especially if some sort of transformer is used.
I’m really glad I watched this, The wiring of the metal enclosure is brilliant to mention. I’ve done a fuse box move in the garage recently and I’m due to put a new socket ring in which it metal so spot on in terms of timing. Thanks so much
A long but informative and engaging video. Easy to be a keyboard warrior but it takes time, skill and patience to put it all together and these things are often overlooked. Yes, others may be better at it but similarly, many are here because they want the help - including me!
Thank you for your efforts.
I’ll undertake this project soon to add power and lighting to a detached outbuilding.✌️
Good quality video that lets you see what you are explaining and a good explanation. Really found this useful.
See all the keyboard sparkys are on here again ,enjoyed the video just sayin from north of Newcastle 👍👍🍺
Thanks for watching Brian 👍
keyboard sparkys 😂
Just enjoy his videos guys
Just replaced my consumer unit,lights and sockets in my garage, this video was so informative! Thank you so much 👍🏻
Glad to help.
Awesome video, super detailed and answered all my questions. Even small things like the good camera setup meant I could zoom and see what’s wired to what. Thank you 🙌
Your just like me. I like to do things myself, lots of research and take my time. The problem is these days the so called time served tradespeople including electricians have no pride in there work. I should know i worked along side of them for years. Most of them bodge. Nothing wrong with doing it yourself and getting it tested afterwards. Good video.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
Wow! Funnily enough most of the shite I have to fix is because of DIYers who watch a video and think they know what they’re doing! 😂
@jameshansing5396 I have just had a napit accredited so called electrician change a consumer unit for me. His work was nothing more than shoddy at best. The consumer unit is pissed,the blanks he used were plastic and not steel, he has stapled cables on top of joists in the attic because he was to lazy to lift the loft insulation. At least I know how to terminate and clip cables correctly and do take pride in what I do eg using a spirit level. This is why some people do this work themselves, which I do not agree with if they are not competent. I have been working in engineering since leaving school in 1973 and have seen some of the abortions that some electricians perform.
@@LS-td3dz100% agreed. Sadly there are a LOT of utterly horrific, clueless Sparks out there!
@@LS-td3dz btw fuse board blanks are often plastic, as are the RCBOs….
As already mentioned by @miky-275 6days ago
Top left of the earth bar is the box earthing strap to case, no need to add the wire at 47:22.
Thanks for the info and thanks for watching 👍
One suggestion, and it's part of the regs. You need some metal fixings for the conduit, particularly the bit that runs through the roof space. It's to do with entanglement in the event of a fire.
I think it's a bit pointless in a garage thar small. If a fire started while I was in it, I'd be out in 3 steps. Thanks for the feedback 👍
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSEit is also for fire fighters if they needed to enter the garage.
its not pointless if your garage burns down the firefighters dont get caught up in the cables that's why its in the regs it dont matter what you think is pointless or not its not about you and what YOU think this is the problem with hobby sparks and youtube videos and how to do things WRONG
@Shawnmc-el1pn do you think a firefighter will enter the garage to put it out? Their hoses spray water about 50x further than the length of my garage. Sometimes the regs need some common sense applied. Thanks for the comment though 👍
Its regulations to fit fire retardant fixings on ALL cable runs now. Also, you've fitted new circuits without notifying your local building authority.
You're also not a legally recognised competent person.
I've forwarded your details to your Local Building Authority and forwarded your video to them.
Please stop teaching bodgers how to cause problems.
Tidy work mate ,keep it up . I wired up my garage/workshop back in 1999 ,when it was ok to do your home electrics I saw my self as a competent person. I buried 6mm cable under the garden to a metal consumer unit an old Crabtree C50 box. I fitted 10 , 5ft fluorescent lights and 12 MK double sockets on a ring main. But I won't do electrical jobs now, I will change a single to a double socket or fit a new light but no big electrical work, I will do the basics . great video ,you done a good job mate take care👍
Thanks for the feedback 👍
A 6mm cable ( what type of cable?) And on a c50 mcb ?
@@mustardcrumbles 6mm swa and a crabtree c50 metal fuseboard with c50 old size rating mcb 2 light circuits at 5 amps
ring main at 30 amps ,fixed tool circuit ( bench saw , bench grinder and bench top drill on a 15 amp circuit each tool fused ) and 3 , 5 amp sockets ( round pin ) via a 5 amp fuse on a 5 amp mcb all based on at the time 16th edition
Yes. A new circuit or consumer unit is notifiable work. Back in the 80s I completely rewired my mum's house. It hasn't burnt down yet.
When drilling into brickwork I just tape an old envelope or plastic bag to the wall directly under the hole being drilled to catch the brick dust. Far easier than trying to hold a vacuum cleaner nozzle with one hand while controlling the drill with the other (single) hand.
I do that sometimes as you'll see in my other videos. Thanks for the feedback 👍
Especially if drilling a big hole, nothing worse than the drill snagging and doing your wrist in
Thank you for this video... really helpful. Would love a vid on converting a single ceiling rose to multiple spot lights.
Great guidance. The best lart of the video was seeong the 26" Maxxis MTB tyres. The good old days!
Thanks for watching 👍
Always a good day when there is a new video by pouse 👍
Glad someone thinks so! 😂 Thanks for watching 👍
Test result any good?
Nice job mate 👍🏼.When your containment for the works is done in conduit, it’s much easier to wire in single cores, instead of twin&cpc. That’s usually how we do it on jobs it’s common practice. That way you don’t have to keep removing the conduit to fish the cable down etc it just pulls through really easily! Good work though, enjoyed the run through of what you were doing. Very well explained 👍🏼
I’m replacing an existing double socket in a garage with a metal clad box and galv conduit, currently both plastic. Getting two T&E through the galv is a squeeze but doable. To keep the two wires straight and to make it easier to pull through I have wrapped the two t&e together in electrical tape. Any potential issues with this?
@@olivershemwell9637 me personally if I had to run in galvanised steel conduit, I would run it in 25mm galvanised steel conduit instead of 20mm. 20mm will be tight to squeeze 2x 2.5 twin + cpc cables through, it’s manageable, but I would also advise getting “electrical fishing rods” from any electrical wholesaler, that will make the job much easier. They basically just screw on to each other male and female end, then tape your cables on to the ends of the rod but make sure they’re tied flat to the rod, makes it easier to run the cables through the containment, hope that works for you 👍🏼
Thanks
love listening to your kid - very sweet.
That earth terminal bar in the CU is already connected to the metal case of the CU. There is a metal strap, up in the top left. It fits underneath the mounting screw on the very top left of the cu and the leftmost screw on the earth terminal bar fastens down onto it. Look to the mounting screw on the very top left and there is no strap there (which is just as well, as that is the neutral bar).
That's an extremely good job by the way, although to save effort in the future, then maybe 6mm^2 cable from the house CU would have been a good idea as if you want to use that 32A breaker that length of cable will need to be changed.
nb. very tidy work.
Brilliant work.
I may be wrong, but I tend to pre-run the cables through the cut lengths of conduit as I go along, just a bit easier for myself 👍
Thanks for watching 👍
I agree, having done this in the garden recently, it’s easier to measure and cut the cable and then add each piece of conduit to the open end of the cable (which will of course be straight)
Nice job, i did very similar myself recently. I marked/drilled forr the conduit first using a laser level but i think i prefer your method to be honest! Only thing id mention is you dont always need to use those pre formed bends, you can use a bending spring for a few quid and bend the conduit to any angle you need. Takes a bit of practise but looks much neater. I think also technically you are supposed to chemically fix the end/joints to the conduit but i dont know anyone who does that in practice. When i reached the rsfters i just clipped my cabler to the timbers rather than use conduit as its easier but fair play for going all the way for neatness!
Thanks for the feedback 👍
It's called 'Mechanical Protection' which is required on All Exposed Wires, the idea being that you can't catch the Exposed Wires by mistake & Shock Yourself or Anyone Who Catches the Wires at a later date
I'm creating an insulated loft in my new garage and not using any conduit there. I've never seen conduit in a loft.
16/18 year old T-Shirt -- I was wearing a 42 year old polo shirt doing diy today!
I'm currently doing something similar and this has helped me so much, thank you!!
Is it normal there to use sheathed cable inside of conduit? In the US you are supposed to have all conduit in place and be able to pull the wire afterwards. We use individual wires in conduit not "romex" or NM sheathed cable.
You're the man pouse, doing gods work teaching us amateurs!
The bind leading the blind! 😂 Thanks for watching 👍
Pouse around the house, that's such a great TH-cam name, I love it.
Thanks!
This video was a massive help! Thanks so much!!!
Glad to help.
7:05 You don't really need to drill them out - they are also knocksouts (yep I didn't know that either for 2 years and was shocked when I accidentially decided to try knocking them out, and that worked perfectly, they require very small amout of strenght, just make sure you are knocking them out from inside out, I recommend to put something below consumer in the center to rise it up nicely)
Love the video, great job, i use those fischer duo power plugs myself all the time now, dont use anything else. 6 and 8 mm. Great in plasterboard or block walls.
Plasterboard ? 🫠🫠🫠
@@jameshansing5396yes plasterboard, always use them in plasterboard they tighten up behind it.
Question: Can i use this conduit inside the house for wall sockets. So the wiring is not inside the wall or the sockets. Both are on the wall with conduit. Is that still within regulations. Its for a rental property but i dont want to grind/chase the walls but rather use conduit for the 2.5mm scoket cables. Can i do that based on electronic regulation?
Just use electrical conduit. It's designed for inside properties, it's screwed to the wall, you run your cables in then clip cover over the top. Best of luck.
Thank you for the advice, love your videos, very informative. Helps alot.
As the garage CU is a secondary CU, can this still be fitted by a DIY-er and remain compliant with Part P? Part P has a slight grey area on reg 12(6A) that replacement of an existing CU is notifiable, but then so is the installation of a new circuit.
I already have a garage circuit in place registered with my local building control from when the garage was added 18-ish years ago; but this is sitting on a 30A isolator for everything - lighting, sockets & boiler (I bought the house last year btw - wasn't my design). For obvious reasons it would make sense to install a garage CU with correctly rated breakers for the circuits - the lighting is currently 'protected' by the 30A (who signed this off 20+ years ago??). But, current Part P dictates that replacement CU's need to be a lot lower down between 1350mm and 1450mm hence my reluctance to switchover from a single isolator to a CU, as the current isolator is high-up and away from potential damage that could occur in a garage/workshop environment
Hi, I guess the reason I did this myself is that it wasn't connected to the consumer unit in the house at the time of my work which meant technically I didn't breach any rules and any DIYer (if competent) could do the same if a qualified and competent electrician can inspect and test the work prior to connecting to the mains. As for secondary consumer unit installation being compliant, I would think you are adding new circuits which would then be notifiable work, but I take your point, that the circuit already exists. Probably best to have a read of the regs in detail (which will be fun!) or check with a qualified electrician. Sorry that probably wasn't much help but best of luck with it. Let me know how you get on and thanks for watching 👍
You would need to notify building control and they would send an electrician out to check the work and sign it off, be cheaper to pay an electrician to do the job
Definately notifiable under Part P, you're installing a consumer unit and new circuits. This is not a DIY job
@@jamesbrentnall2 Yes exactly as I suspected, its that this video does come across to a DIY-er that THEY can install any secondary CU's, which is why I raised the question.
@@codenamenel Not me, I only raised the question as this video is quite suggestive to DIY-ers who may not have read or even be aware of what they can/cannot do under Part P / BS7671:2018. There are soo many videos on YT of sparks visiting houses and seeing these DIY wiring nightmares (thinking Artisan Electrics right now), hence why I raised it here - be a point of explanation to any other DIY-ers who having seen this video, might be thinking "gonna wire on a garage CU as they're only £20 in B&Q, and they're as easy as wiring a socket init".
As for me, you misread this: my garage is already hot, with lighting, sockets and my boiler all installed and checked by BC more than a decade before I bought the house. My only issue is that all three circuits are protected by a single 30A breaker, but its in a good location out of the way.
My opinion is that each of these circuits SHOULD be on their own breakers appropriate to the circuit so 5A for the lights, 7A for the boiler and then 30A for the sockets (although in all honesty, this could be reduced given the loading). But as a notifiable install, this will mean that a new unit will have to meet the regulation 1350mm - 1450mm off the floor, which is in a terrible location for a workshop.
Really enjoyed this
Any solvent weld on the PVC conduit?
Maybe you could have used less runs by using a larger trunking run at roof level and just dropped in 20mm to the sockets, then you could could have shared the sockets and lights in the same run.
I could have done that but I like the look of what I've done. Less industrial looking. I'm not a fan of huge trunking. Thanks for watching.
If I'm not mistaken the CU is already earthed, look at the screw to the top left, it has a metal bar going from the screw to the earth bar AT 49.50. Good job though.
Interesting, I'll take a look and see. I thought it was all insulated by plastic around it but I'll whip front off and have another look now. Thanks for watching 👍
@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE
I was about to comment the same.
Top left screw has a metal plate running from the screw to the first hole of the earthing strip.
And not sure about the fly lead on the lid. Me knows pretty sure it would be supplied by manufacturer if required....
@@Richard1977 The cover will be earthed via the 4 mounting screws. I have yet to see a CU which requires a flying lead, and I doubt one exists. The CU metal boxes never have to carry a full fault current, so don't need a particularly low resistance path anyway.
Proper Black metal conduit for this and metal clad accessories very nice install will last for years!
It's not metal
It’s plastic conduit 😂
@@jameshansing5396 Nice to see you awake to this 🙃
@@Mike_5 cool story, bro.👊
Better than most electricians i've followed. You've got a couple of do's & dont's, but as a whole it's tidy job & looks fairly professional.
Thanks for making such useful video. Could you please add the consumer unit (RCD+MCB box) details?
Here's the link - www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-fortress-5-module-2-way-populated-garage-consumer-unit/453vf
Thanks for watching 👍
hi. ccould you tell me If i used 32A breaker for ring socket, what is the capaccity of the breaker in a CU.
In the U S A we cannot run Romex cable ( what you refer to in mm) in conduit unless the outside sheath is removed. This is to prevent heat building up in the cable. It appears things are done differently in your country. We also have conduit fill regulations which dictate the number of conductors we can fit into a conduit.
However, you guys twist the living hell out of your conductors so we’ll call it even. 😂😂😂😂
Normally with any significant length of sheathed cables running through conduit, you'd use some sort of a derating factor so that the current level in these cables is less than for single conductors.
We have used to have grouping factors over here too , a spark over here wouldn't have done it like either so dont panic
Was surprised you had to innovate your own way to earth the housing of the consumer unit itself. Did the manufacturers not provide any instructions for when not using metal conduit?
Great video and lovely to see your son taking and interest! 👍
If you look up to the top left of the CU, that earth terminal bar is already connected to the case. There is a metal strap which is connected underneath mounting screw on the very top left of the CU. That strip then runs to the right and the leftmost screw in the earth terminal bar fastens down onto it. Look at the mounting screw on the top right and you'll see that strap doesn't exist.
So I think that extra earth cable is solving a non-existent problem.
I hope you used some metal saddles so that the installation was compliant with current regulations and the correct spacings for horizontal and vertical supports were followed.
It would definitely make your life easier to use singles when working with conduit, and a draw tape is a much better solution than using rods.
Very good clear and concise instructions though for the learners.
@@angelofranklin1 that regs been changed to the whole installation rather than just cables that were above escape routes. You are getting mixed up with the 17th edition regs. Regulation 521.10.202
You can use singles if your cable is in conduit, they are a lot easier to work with than T+E
At 34:07 you messed up,,,,, you're required to Bond the back box as if the socket screws are out the back box can become live with no CPC/Earth Protection
Just a quick question. I wasn't able to get through the entire vid yet, so maybe it's already been explained.
I spoke to an electrician to have mine done and he is insisting that we run an armoured cable from the meter box to the garage instead of taking the feed from the home CU. Just wanted to make sure he isn't charging me for extra work and materials or anything? The home CU is directly on the other side of the wall of my garage, less than 5m away.
Nice to see your videos again 👌🏾👌🏾❤
Glad you like them! I get less time these days but I keep chipping away.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE always loved your videos, ur a man of many talents shall we say. Always learn from you mate. Keep uploading 👍🏽👌🏾
Why not run single cable instead of struggling to fit T&E in a conduit??
Already had the cable left over from previous projects.
If you have two solid lugs on the back box no need or requirement to run a earth lead from the accessory to the back box, if two adjustable lugs then you must earth accessory to back box, if one solid and one adjustable then it is recommended/desirable to earth. However I just installed fourteen metal clad back box’s with solid lugs and ran an earth from accessory to back box on each one.
No matter what lugs are on a backbox it’s always better to add a fly lead from accessory to box , regs say that all power should be off before removing a faceplate but obviously that isn’t the case most of the time so if there isn’t a fly lead attached to the faceplate as soon as you remove the screws the faceplate then has no earth and has the potential to become live via something such as a loose connection 👍
Very neat and well done! Great video
Thank you very much!
Very tidy work there sir,should have used singles could and would have pulled through that all with out dismantling also you need to run a fly lead from back box to front plate. 😉 keep it up
All good advice, thanks for the feedback 👍
u dont need a fly lead unless your going to take off a metal switch when its turned on....its a metal switch screwed to a metal box
i see a yellow msx 125 hiding in the corner whats the bike below the sheet?
If you go to my other channel POUSE outta the HOUSE all will be revealed! You can click here for the channel - th-cam.com/channels/YekQPS0Jk2C2sj1sHUb3GA.html
Should have used singles instead of twin and cpc to make life ten times easier
Yes you're probably right, but I had cable left over from my loft conversion and wanted to use it all up...and save money! Thanks for watching 👍
Hmmm, I'll remember that, thanks.
If cost isnt a issue that's fine. This is only one way of doing this type of install it's not the way I would do it but it wasnt my job. Your main mistake is that your trying to hard and making it to complicated if you would have put in your own sets bends the cable would run a lot smoother you would also be better off with a nylon fish tape. Dont misunderstand me it will be a fine installation when its finished one day😂😂. Removing all the fittings to get cables in is just so time consuming.
I looked into this myself for a very similar job in my garage and it definitely looks easier to work with but singles is a bit of a pain for smaller jobs as you have to buy a big reel of each colour and really you need to buy/make something to hold them while you reel them off. Plus if you need to mix sizes of cables you need even more cable. I just went with twin and earth myself in the end. Can get 2x 2.5mm in a 20mm conduit without too much difficulty. Any more would be a struggle.
Obviously you’re not a Sparky. Too.
Have you got a link to the consumer unit?
A few questions?
- is the RCD - Type A or AC?
- Conduit clips - Plastic or Metal ?
RCD is type A. Clips are plastic. Whilst I appreciate metal clips should be used on ceilings, the garage is a few meters long and has access from both ends. I made that decision rightly or wrongly to maintain the aesthetics by using plastic throughout. Can I just say efixx is a great channel as is Gaz's channel, congrats to all on the success of both channels, well deserved. Please feel free to critique my video, that's how we learn. Thanks for the questions 👍
Your channel is great!
Thank you.
Superb mate 👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
You said you won't follow the brick as it might be out to only then go against that process with the rafters making it look off.
Yes, but the rafters are hugely out and my 90 degree bends would have to be forced to something more like a 70 degree bend. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching 👍
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE makes sense. Cheers
For the sockets cld you have run a ring for dble the ampacity? or are regs saying no more new rings just radials? And the condiuet run looks about what I wld have done in the states.
Not sure if I wld have gone pvc or metal 🤔
Yes could have done a ring, just no need really for what I need. I chose plastic partly because I had a load left over from another job, and it's way cheaper than metal. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching 👍
@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE i being from the states always need more power wish we cld have rings
The reason is for discrimination (selectivity now), ideally like he said in the video the supply would have been 4mm or 6mm from a 32A MCB, the 16A radials then comply with the 2:1 rule of thumb for selectivity. Now it is 20A/16A which isn't ideal but it is what it is. He has a spare way so if there is too much load on the radial then there is the option of having a second radial. The reason we are concerned about discrimination here is it could be dangerous if you are working and the main supply trips out plunging you in darkness. I personally would install an Emergency light in there to mitigate this and other potential loss of power situations.
Not really, given the supply cable and breaker? 🤦🏻♂️
To anyone thinking of fitting a consumer unit on their garage like this please be aware that this are new circuits so is notifiable work under Part P. You can do this yourself but you need to notify building control before starting work, fill out all the appropriate forms, pay the council the money and comply with the appropriate regulations. You will probably have to demonstrate that you have designed the installation correctly and considered all the regulations and thought about voltage drop, selectivity, etc.
It will need testing which the council should do. Trouble is that the council will likely charge you more than it would cost to get a sparky to do the job.
Did you consider hi,tuff. cable and stuffing glands. ?. Would be fine for a domestic garage ...its an option...
So 2 glands per socket abd a shit load of clips? Lovely 🫠😂
Has it been notified to building control? That's a necessary thing so i understand?
Not required if an electrician tests, inspects and signs off on your behalf but you need to find/know an electrician happy to do this. The alternative as you said is notify building control and they will send an electrician to do the same. Thanks for watching 👍
There are 2 routes you can go for doing electrical work such as this that is notifiable:
Route one, is notify building control yourself through your council- this however requires you notifying BEFORE any work is done, if you notify after the work is done the fee will over double as a 'regularisation' (retrospective) charge will be applied.
Route two is as above and find an electrician to test and certify the work. Now this is tricky as for one the electrician MUST be registered with a CPS (competent persons scheme) like NICEIC, and it is the CPS who will actually notify building control. The electrician also cannot just inspect and sign off your work - they have to effectively pretend they did all the work and issue certificates as if they did the work.
There is no official mechanism in place for a registered electrician to inspect and 'sign off' someone else's work in a retrospective fashion.......unless it is an electrician sent by building control in the retrospective route one example. So you need a friendly electrician who is willing to sign off work as if they actually did all the work from start to finish and they must be CPS registered as otherwise it is pointless as building control will not be notified.
Great video, really informative and helpful.
where can get that box at the minutes 7:20?
DB box
Screwfix or toolstation. Hope that helps, thanks for watching 👍
I started a drinking game in which I had a shot every time I heard the word ‘conduit’ but after getting shit faced in the first 10 minutes I had to change it to one every 10 times I heard it!!!
Subscribed 👍🏼
Hope you've recovered!
Congratulations, honestly you doing a nice job, and I believe you are a better lots electrician up there with your experience in installation you can be an electrician if you want, keep the good job
Thanks for the feedback 👍
Would i need to run another fuse box from my work shops fuse box for my garden lighting ?? What would you recommend.??
Excellent job by the way.👍
Cute little lad helping
What brand is the cu?
Link here - www.toolstation.com/bg-metal-garage-consumer-unit-ip65/p42830?store=UR&mkwid=_dm&pcrid=&pkw=&pmt=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA67CrBhC1ARIsACKAa8Qzn7izrXQDvkIbbAppEoUrqB7Xzx_5CHr8rvNq_Hsn-pUqSMHFiSAaAn0yEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
I want to do the same in my garage but having 2 gang switch to power 2 different lights, I was planning to run the live from the CU directly in the common of 1 switch and bridge into another switch, then return from L1 from both switches to the lights. Is this a good approach? Very good detailed video bdw 👍
As suggested by other stranded singles would have made the job a lot easier. Also the two T&E's cables from the house consumer could have both fed the garage consumer unit giving you more power in the garage (32 Amps)
Should the conduit be glued into the fittings?
Also in garages consider the lighting when the garage door is open.
Agree with both of those comments, but in the end it was suitable for my needs with potential to use one cable for the shed in future. As for adhesive, not really, it's indoor application and conduit isn't required anyway, just looks good and offeres physical protection which is more than ample in that environment. Thanks for the feedback 👍
AC type RCD ?
It's a neat job you done and safe but I just think the consumer unit low down at the switch and the socket just does not look right also you should have used singles cables 1.5 and 2.5 they go through the 20mm plastic conduit easy and it's easier to connect everything
Nice the only thing I will say if it's supplied by a rcd in the main cu you should put a second in the garage cu
Should or shouldn't? I did use one in the garage.
shouldn't have two rcd's of the same type, potentially the second rcd can stop the first one from working and make other circuits in the house un-protected
Wtf are you talking about?
Totally agree it would really just be nuisance tripping upstream, implying to someone looking for a fault that there was something wrong with the sub main.
I understand how you have your feed in to your garage that is from Your CCU in your home , however where and what exactly does it come from? And what size cable is supplying power your garage ?
I explained it all in the video. CU in house has 20amp MCB, 2.5mm cable from this to main switch in CU in garage. Then 16amp MCB provides power to sockets via 2,5mm twin & earth cable in radial circuit. 6amp mcb provides power to lighting via 1.5mm Twin & earth cable in radial circuit. Hope that helps. Watch the video in detail, it's all explained. Thanks for watching.
I was just wondering: the wiring for the sockets goes all the way round the garage to the door that is near the CU. Why didn't you take the shorter route for the socket by the door by knocking out the right side of the socket as well, and go up and over the door and down to the socket? Is it because a radial isn't allowed go both ways or something?
That's right, a radial goes from one socket to the next until you get to the end. I could have gone one way or the other, or potentially doubled back on myself but this was the neatest way to do it in my installation.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Thanks for the reply, all clear now.
On a radial you can have as many legs or branches as you need, in any direction.
@@tobysherring1369 Thanks.
Hi, I am about to start cabling for my garage and found this video really helpful. I just wanted to know, did your electrician signoff and connect your cable to the consumer unit in the house, without changing anything.
Very interesting, but as a DIYr how much can i do my self?
If you know an electrician that is happy to connect it to the mains and test it afterwards, then you can do anything I did in the video as it is a dead circuit. But you may not find someone happy to do that. Obviously your standard of work will have to meet the requirements of the part P regulations (in Wales and England). It's different for other countries so always check your building regulations or codes first. Thanks for watching.
hi there. honestly good job. very helpful. 💪
I feel like I’ve learned so much from this video!
Thanks for watching 👍👍
I've just fitted a shower switch with an indicator light (previous switch didn't have the light) but the indicator light is always illuminated whether the switch is on or off, does this mean I've got the feed cable the wrong side of the switch? ❤️🇬🇧
Sounds like you may have switched the neutral not the line. The indicator light could always be on though to signify supply to the switch but that would be odd.
@@davideyres955 thank-you, I just followed what was there before, basically just changed the faceplate with the switch, the previous one had no indicator built in so anyway, I'll change the feed and switched around, thanks again. 👍
Awesome video mate - thanks 🏴🍺👌🏻
No problem
Twin and earth in conduit?
Привет, трубу для электрического кабеля можно склеить пвх колеем?
Thank you for the nice video,
I just want to know what size wire you use for 4 sockets
Many thanks
28:05 what these cables are ? One for the light fitting and another one ? 3 cores for two way switching ?
I've taken the power straight to the switch, so those cables are, one twin and earth from switch to light, and one 3 core and earth to the other switch to provide 2 way switching from the other end of garage. If you watch to the end you'll see me connect them all up.
Qualified bodger,great installation,will the circuit protective device operate before the cables melt?
Care to explain so we can all learn?
Which circuit protective device are you referring to? The MCB protecting each garage circuit, the RCD on the garage consumer unit, the MCB on the house consumer unit providing protection to the garage consumer unit, or the RCD on the house consumer unit protecting all of it?
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSEwhat’s the Zs? Or Ze? Or IR? What’s the trip time of the RCD? What type of RCD is it?
@@jameshansing5396haha, love this. TNC-S or TN-S, what’s his Ze? Where’s his EIC? NCs everywhere on this video
Goggles ppe whilst drilling. Also why didn't you run your light wire in the same conduit and junction off? plenty of room in 20mm?
I left the same comment
The light wire is sharing the conduit with 3 core and earth for 2 way switching so no more room. Also it runs in different direction to my socket conduit. So I'm not really sure what you mean in this situation.
The earth for the case is on the top left screw. I do not know how you missed it.
As you said you run two 2.5 twin and earth cables. You could have connected the 2.5 cables in parallel to a 32 amp breaker at the house consumer unit (on the non protected side) and used separate rcbo's for an improved selective. Inside your garage consumer this would inable the protection of 20A for the sockets and 6A for the lighting circuit.
Who the fu*k would run 2x cables in parallel? This guy should have just run in 6mm or 10mm SWA depending on cable calcs
Welcome to the scary world of DIY 😂😂😂😂
Fantastic video buddy. Everything explained nicely.
You just know an army of sparks, thinking themselves molecular physicists or Nobel laureates in medicine, are about to snarl and squeal at someone daring to dabble in their 110 IQ-required profession.
Maybe! But as mentioned in the video, this was all done with no connection to the main consumer unit so hopefully they'll be OK with it, we'll see! Thanks for watching 👍
The thing is. Neither of you know how much you don't know. Dunning-krueger in action. Everything is easy when you have no clue. What do you do for a living? Recruitment? Yours... A 110iq sparks apparently.
Not really I think most electricians are just concerned about having it tested properly before use. Most amateurs don’t have the correct test equipment as it’s pretty pricey or the training to know what the test figures mean. I’m guilty of being one of those annoying pros by the way lol.but from what I can see you did a pretty good job of it .
@@travoltasbiplane1551 The irony. It’s “Dunning-Kruger”.
Moreover, you have absolutely no idea how little or how much I know, as I’ve not opined anything electrical-related in this discussion, for you to make such an assessment.
Finally, your last barb just shows your level of logical reasoning. I never stated all electricians have a 110-IQ, just that that is the intelligence minimum required.
@@MarcusT86 Ah yes the irony... a spelling mistake made whilst writing on a phone whilst having a shit... clearly indicative of my level of intelligence... 👋
What is actually ironic is that I just googled where a 110 IQ puts a person and its actually an above average IQ... Some websites describe it as 'superior intelligence'. Whoops.
So either I owe you an apology for not realising your original post was actually complimenting electricians or perhaps you should be a bit more careful with your 'facts' particularly if this is the minimum level required for an electrician.... particularly if you're trying to insult them.
So what do you do for a living and how are you so informed as to what an electrician (a decent one not a wire puller) does and does not need to be capable of?
My logical reasoning sees someone backtracking on his original statement inferring that electricians think themselves molecular physicists etc. which was plainly intended as an insult.
You claim you haven't opined anything electrical but you have validated that everything was explained nicely in the video. It explained very little and there were multiple non-compliances, mistakes and misinformation in evidence. This isn't his fault. Its just that he's a diyer... almost certainly like you. But he is also showing people how to do things on the internet so expect comment.
Dunning-KRUGER effect in evidence because you you diminish the opinion of trained professionals because I suspect, given your interactions to date, you think you're something better.
❤where do you get the power from and what amperage mcb use 😊
wrapped the earth wire on the unit with the screw the wrong way, but in your case, it did not matter because the wire was trapped in the keyhole for the screw so could not come loose. just a point.
Thanks for the info.
Earthing the DIN rail = Sign of a DIY’er ⚠️
I am indeed a DIYer as mentioned clearly in the video.
Reading all the comments then pretending you know what you're talking about = Sign of a DIK !
Who earths a bloody din rail any why? 😂😂😂
All industrial sparks, but not in a garage D.B. lol