I used 100% silicon from Henry the product is tropi-cool. . My house is in there demo video. 5 years and no regrets. The roof is cement with Rolls of bituminous waterproofing membrane. This is a Florida home and we receive 60 to 70 inches of rain a year but the biggest surprise was how effective it slows down the suns heat by reflecting it away and thus penetrating the roof. It has reduced our summer time HVAC bill approximately 35%
I’ve recently came up with my new motto. “May not be the right way, But it’s my way.” I really don’t know what I’m doing most the time just trying to figure it out, and if I learned a valuable lesson I’m happy to share the value I guess… I will say with Any of the silicone roofing, I wouldn’t recommend going over a several layer roof. When I got this building, it had 3 layers of patched up, tar, asphalt, elastomeric and stuff I couldn’t tell what it was, I was thinking thick rubber would fix it, but biggest issues was over the thick Tar spots, in the summer the tar would heat and crack, and that would cause splits and bubbles in the silicone for me… but I wasn’t really 100% on the proper prepping of the surface either. It should have all been torn off and redecked, before this was applied. So by the time the building sold, I had $8000 -$9000 in roof repairs for the 7000 sq ft roof, if I would have removed, redecked, and then did it, I’d say it would have been cheaper, and I could see this stuff lasting 50+ years if done right… although not sure how deterioration is over that long of time from the sun. Thanks for watching!
Not a fan of elastomerics but for some roofs that don't really need to extend their service life i guess it is an OK fix. Our roofing company has used pretty much everything out there over the last 25 years. We use only one products after 8 years of success and not callbacks. There is a Liquid butyl rubber made by epdmcoatings. What we like about it is that it does not need a primer for any of the roof types we have applied it over that goes for metal, BUR, epdm, foam but NOT silicone. also it is a one coat application so we close much more business with this product because we come in as the lowest bid! It is a solvent product so primarily the reason it last all the years. Cheers
If you are only paying $77 for a 5 gallon pail of modified acrylic, you should expect those results. The best modified acrylic elastomerics are in the $200 for a 5 range. Both products have their drawbacks. The biggest one for me with silicone is that nothing sticks to it. That makes future repairs and modifications to a roof coated with it very difficult. I've been using modified acrylics for two decades and if you use a base coat, poly fabric, and top coat system it stands up well. The only drawback is having to have near perfect weather when applying it. Silicone is much more forgiving in that sense.
Even with "perfect weather", there's a bit of a gamble. Shortly after I finished the second coat of elastomeric coating to a flat garage roof on a late July afternoon, a "pop up" thunderstorm unexpectedly rolled in on what had been a cloudless day. In the span of ten minutes, my labors were now all for not...
We all know the silicone is better on a flat roof but the elastomeric works real well on a slanted roof and is not wet after 24 hrs, it dries in 1 hour , my roof is slanted just a little and the elastomeric works great , I keep adding more layers every year to freshen it up , all my low spots I use the silicone , where the water pools
Also before you use the white stuff make sure your surface is clean wash it off with a hose with a hose let it dry for a couple day days in the sun other otherwise the white stuff will start looking dirty, the dirt will mix and come through it. blow it off with a blower each before you work each time e even when e even between coats if there a day apart on the white stuff , let water on it dry it's . blow it off with the cordless blower I use a battery one. It's elastic will dry in a few hours if it's summer time or Sunny day out Like 75 or above
Good vid. I had the pros do my flat roof that had old silicone. They power-washed, filled in all cracks with UNIFLEX FLASH and then 2 coats of UNIFLEX 44 SILICONE. THAT ROOF IS SUPER Solid. Like almost rubber. I tried a smaller roof overhang myself with elastomeric. That stuff is so thin, even with a few coats. I would def go with Silicone, lot more cost, but well worth it.
It depends on the application and situation. Silicon would be better personally for a flat garage at home where I don’t want to touch it again, but in facilities maintenance we have a limited annual budget so we need to stretch and that material price hurts. I can do elastomeric on a building in 2020, then have it back in the rotation for recoat in 2025, and I can do a recertification of the 5 year condition for accreditation. Labor doesn’t count in my budget and I got to keep my guys busy.
Dear Mr. Backend Handyman: That is a very informative video. What would be the solution for the elastomeric coating that is flaking. Are you able to re-coat silicone over it? thank you in advance for your response.
Also If you get puddles of water from washing being a flat roof take your blower you can blow the water off if you've got a powerful blower and they make some strong good battery ones
That is the elastomeric coating.... look at the 100% silicone. This video shows the difference... do you want a rubber coating or a thick paint coating?
Roofer here, elastomeric is water based and when power washing a roof off the water will flow off white....loosing breaking down the product. Power wash a silicone coated roof you get perfectly clear water, what's the old saying the proof is in the pudding! Most roofers spray on elastomeric coating which is thin, silicone most of the time (unless you have a very expensive silicone sprayer) is rolled on which is much thicker. Silicone is superior but it is also more expensive. You will have to recoat every 3-7 years depending with elastomeric where as silicone you may never have to recoat! I prefer silicone coatings but depends on the customers plan for the building. As far as your video, cleaning it the way you did is overkill, power wash it off with a 40 degree tip watching how close you get to the deck, push excess water off the roof with a push broom, blow dry with a leaf blower, tape any seams or cracks, or use Sherwin Williams one flash, coat by dipping a 3/4" nap only pour from the container at the end when you no longer can sink your nap in. Most silicone says one coat is good I always do 2 coats.
@@throughmyeyesonly yes you can just power wash and dry it really good and repair any cracks or loose seams with mesh and repair product, also once you have gone silicone you can't put elastomeric over the top of that.
Thank you for the information. Makes sense on the elastomeric being water based. That’s exactly what makes us handymen less recommended for a skilled job. Like roofing, if done by a true professional shouldn’t be any worries. I really do hope people that watched the video see your comment. I appreciate the positive criticism. I now know for the future. Definitely a difference in price considering the silicone is 2-3x the price. Personally, it’s worth the price difference
You got junk elastomeric sealer. I've used it..... it wasn't wet a day later, and it wasn't soft like that 6 months later. I put it over some leaking spots in a shingle roof, it held the shingles together so tight I had to take the whole area of shingles off, the sealer bonded everything together. That was a good 5 years later.
It is crazy how many people misuse the term elastomeric in coatings. All coatings are elastomeric, all of them. Do they stretch, yes. interiors paint not sure much, but those aren't coatings. Those are paints. Caulkings, roof coatings, silicone, acrylic, urethane, polyurea, thermal plastics, all of them elastomeric.
It looked like the dried silicone in the bucket tore pretty easily -- is that a concern. How does silicone durability compare to Liquid Rubber ? Thanks for the video.
There is a so called liquid rubber coating which is not silicone based. I have not used it, but reading the comments it appears adhesion is somewhat poor. You can read my long post on the subject, but I think the premium acylics are extremely durable and can be reinforced with fabric in any problem areas. Best of all it's easy to apply and clean up is easy. Any needed repairs are very easy. Use a brush or roller. Do not pour a large pond out onto the roof to roll out as is seen in this video.
@@JoeLinux2000 I'm not sure what is best yet, but some paint that I've used is extremely tough once dried and dried quickly. That said, I may have seen a difference to which stays adhered best when there is ponding water.
Nothing wrong with going with the cheapest way if it works but do you have to remove the old product if it doesn't work in order to use the other? Aside from the wasted time, how bad did this set you back?
I used roof elastomeric paint on my roof's hatch and it drys up like a rubber sheet. I do not know what happen to yours, May be different brand performs dirrerently.
Probably different maker, and one of the other commenters mentioned it probably boils down to it being water based, and the roof was still little wet in spots.
Elastomeric is a term meaning "Able to accomplish 200% elongation or more" it is not a type. It's like saying hail rating, permeability, or flame spread. Silicones are in fact elastomeric, in most cases. The 2 products have different uses and resistances, what one is great for the other isnt.
Brusquely Roofing true but silicone is 100% that’s the difference elastomeric that was used was nothing like the 100% I wouldn’t waist money on the lower grade.
@@backendhandyman Lower grade what? I would agree it best to stay away from the cheaper acrylic based products like you used in the video. The cost of silcones is ridiculously high. It's probably more cost effective to just replace the roof.
@@JoeLinux2000 I don't understand replacing the entire roof. Once you do that, what are you going to coat it with? If not silicone, then in 5 years you still have a problem. Why not just do it right and get 10-20 years out of the silicone?
Acrylic (Elastomeric) is not good for flat roofs because the solvent is water. Water will emulsify it after it has cured. Silicone is fine under ponding water and it doesn’t break down in UV light. Will last for decades.
Lol honestly getting paid would be nice but I’m happy with people actually finding my videos useful and the complements. Like others have said in these comments that I don’t really know 100% what I’m talking about. But that’s what backend handyman is all about. Learning a little something didn’t know before, but yes I’m impressed of the silicone. And it is seasonal, so if you get it on off season (winter I think) it’s $100 cheaper per bucket
Thank you so much for your review! I’m convinced the extra cost for the silicone based product is worth it. Question, I’m going to use the silicone based product on my deck. After I strip off the old elastomeric coating which cracked and leaked over time, should I primer the wood decking before finishing with the silicone based product?
R 808 this stuff goes on like paint, one fair warning on a deck surface is once it’s on it’s slick, I’ve heard of people sprinkling sand on top of the final coat to create a less slippery surface, when it rains this would make a great slip and slide lol, but I just cleaned everything best I could and it bonded pretty good. They do have prepping methods but the elastomeric crap don’t seam to stick and bond near as good.
@@backendhandyman Sheit you ain't lying. White silicone, water, and dirt, perfect recipe to slip and die. Better put out a warning sign on your roof and a skateboard sandpaper walking path.
Theres you tube videos where silicone on metal flat roofs got a pinhole, then the entire metal roof had rust, lmfao. lol. Don't do it. Im a year late. But go back in time and don't do it.
No longer own the property. It did keep piping up leaks though. Like I said it was a temporary fix to a long term issue. The whole roof was layered with previous layers of roofing, and didn’t help with the parts that were tar... the heat from the sun would actually heat the tar and make it swell and contract which impacts the silicone pretty bad. Especially if you walk on it a lot, little nicks and cuts can chip at the coating making it leak. Honestly I could see if it was original layer, prepped and layered as just that the silicone would last way longer than tar, and shingles. It really is a rubber coating.
Yeah I work in the coating industry. I can tell you right now, if you buy cheap products you get cheap results. I have been on silicone coated roofs before. They gave a tendency to blister and leak. Leave you silicone in your fish tank. When doing a roof coatings don't buy cheap crap. Using a base with fabric reinforcement and a top coat you can extend the life of your roof. Silicone is what I scrape off when customers are tired of leaks.
@@backendhandyman With all due respect, you clearly don't really know what you are doing and you used the lowest grade of acrylic. That fact that it didn't dry suggests something was way off, but it's hard to know what from the video.
Maxwell Smart yep, when I started the fix I was in a hurry and just wanted leaks to stop. “But” there was already 1” worth of preexisting roofing that wasn’t any good, mostly tar, and the problem with that is the tar when it would heat up under the silicone is would create pinholes and cracks. If it was a new roof, I’d rather do silicone opposed to metal roof because of the longevity and it repels the heat. And plus if it didn’t have the preexisting roof it would have been more like $3000-$4000 but that was also when I was getting it for around $200 a bucket that was one hell of a sale because now it’s over $350 per bucket. My roof sucks because it was used as a quick fix... I am a dumb ass but wanted to share my experience.
@@TNRAUCTIONScom Thanks for your comment. I'm in a position where I've tarred a roof a lot but it still leaks because it the tar cracks. Any recommendations?
pepe_sanchez I hat to say it but excessive tar and leaks due to cracking, I’d recommend re doing the whole thing. Like this has said I spent around $8000, trying to be cheep when I started this I figured 3-4000, but the leaks never completely went away, now on a fresh new roof, I recommend the 100% silicone for the final coat. It would last the 50+ years I bet, and if it starts to leak, after it already has silicone, a patch on a leak, I bet would be a lot easier and last longer. But yeah, tar.... I don’t like tar after this experience because the heat messes with it, but then again, after 50 years the heat and sun may make the silicone need completely replaced. But I haven’t see any that’s been there for that long.
@@pepe.sanchez Use a premium acrylic embedded into a fabric. Or use a rubberized tar also in conjunction with some type of reinforcement screen or cloth. Rubberized ashpalt is somewhat more difficult because it is messy, but depending on the drainage of the roof, rubberized asphalt can be more water resistant. (ponding water)
@@backendhandyman Thank you sir. I have a part of my roof that has an elastomeric coat from previous owner that is flaking. I am wondering if I would be able to re-coat it with silicone.
@@vikramparmar8093 well that’s where the gamble comes in. See when I did this, this roof had roll roofing, silicone, elastomeric, tar, even had some shingles in spots, when the elastomeric starts flaking off, it makes a poor base for the new coats to stick too. By the time we sold this building I had almost 10k in roofing product on this roof. And mine still leaked, most my leaks came from tar under the silicone roofing cracking and creating more holes due to the heat. Now the part that had the elastomeric coating I was able to go over it with silicone, as long as it’s thick enough coating… however, by the time mine was all said and done, I wish I would have just stripped all roofing and added a whole new roof, since I was doing it myself, it would have been about the same price as what I spent adding more and more coatings of silicone and elastomeric. Main reason for this video was to show the difference between the two. I’d put it this way. If the roof you are wanting to fix has several layers of pre-existing roofing this will more than likely be a nightmare, but if your pre-existing roof is really sturdy and in pretty good shape, try it out. I would recommend no less than three coats for the roof though, and if your not planning to re cover the whole roof, I’d stick with the elastomeric just for spot fixes, and if you can’t get it clean where nothing is flaking off it may be a waste of time and money all together, cause if I remember right the elastomeric gets kinda chalky and that would create a horrible base to coat.
Hes doing something wrong because I just got done putting the elasto down and it was 79 degrees and sunny and it dried solid in hours . You also need to use dark printings so we can read it better it's really hard to see when you're making a video and i put it on with arollor on a flat roof 4 car garage I use the dural bright and it stuck to rubber too.
@@backendhandyman That was my thought to. Using the vehicle as a hunting/fishing/camping and just enjoying the outdoors is the future use. I want somehting rugged, not pretty. Hey and I can do it myself!
Ken Hurley yeah I think the rhino liner is kinda like an epoxy, where two things mix and need special tools. This stuff isn’t really for vertical I don’t think though. That would be my biggest doubt about if you could use this. Don’t know how bad it would run, since it’s thick when you put it on. I’d say at least 10xthicker than regular paint.
No they weren’t mixed before application, but video shows what each is like after it’s applied, however the roof does have both types on it so the roof is mixed with the two kinds, but no they weren’t mixed before applied
Most people dont understand that silicone roof coatings are NOT waterproof and should never be used in roof areas that dont dry 100% within 24 hours of a rain storm ending ,silicone also has serious problems with adhesion ,anybody who thinks silicone bonds well simply needs to go to any window caulked with clear silicone & watch how easy it is to peel off a supposed 50 year silicone caulk ,the proper coating to install over a torch down roof like we see here would be an asphalt based silver coat ,preferably a non fibrated prime coat with a top coat of fibrated silver coat ,the black coating drys silver ,has 100% adhesion to asphalt roof systems,and gives just as good UV protection as those Home Depot mobile home roof coatings .
i have a metal roof on a new house i bought that is showing some rust. i want to throw a coating on it to make sure the rust dont give me problems. im trying to understand coatings of roofs. from what i read there is 1. acrylic (old style?) 2. elastomeric 3. aluminum fibered or non fibered im trying to pick one. i had 2 estimates and thy bth said they use aluminum. is fibered or non fibered better is elastomeric a actual coating, or is it meant to be a coating with another coating added to it? 2 other people told me that elasto is best but with so many grades and kinds of roof paintings im totally lost! this stuff costs thousands and i dont want to make the wrong decision
I’m pretty sure it can. Best way to find out it’s it should say on bucket, or may have a website you can see that at. Don’t see why it can’t. Would probably take a different prep method... not that I prepared it correctly on this but, it is more less like a really thick rubber paint. Only reason I’m not sure is because of bonding to metal is a pain in the ass with most paints
R. Camacho I would say don’t go over the top of it with elastomeric coating, that’s just like painting over top of it, and the way it’s really slick feeling I doubt tar would stick. But if you go over a new roof with it on the sheeting and tar paper I’d think wouldn’t have to mess with it. My roof is such bad condition I keep finding new leaks where the tar spread that was underneath-it and caused a new leak.
Ms Nzbody yes, it’s not due to silicone though, it’s due to covering a really bad roof to start off with, the tar under it often cracks and moves making more leaks. If it was good solid roof to start I’m sure it would last 10+ years
@@TheSoloAsylum Yes, that's why I will never consider using it on my roof. I want something that is easily repairable. I believe silcones have the potential to create massive repair problems.
Looks like the silicone coating was in place while you were prepping for the elastomeric. Scrubbed it with soap and you thoroughly rinsed away the soap residue then let it dry? That would make some difference. Not being critical but the way that you dumped the coating out would not be an indication of the application I hope. Just so that you know, I am about to apply the same product (elastomeric) to my metal roof.
I used 100% silicon from Henry the product is tropi-cool. . My house is in there demo video. 5 years and no regrets. The roof is cement with Rolls of bituminous waterproofing membrane. This is a Florida home and we receive 60 to 70 inches of rain a year but the biggest surprise was how effective it slows down the suns heat by reflecting it away and thus penetrating the roof. It has reduced our summer time HVAC bill approximately 35%
Did you apply it directly to asphalt shingles? Did it stick to it well?
I appreciate your honesty when admiting some mistakes. Thank you.
I’ve recently came up with my new motto.
“May not be the right way, But it’s my way.” I really don’t know what I’m doing most the time just trying to figure it out, and if I learned a valuable lesson I’m happy to share the value I guess… I will say with Any of the silicone roofing, I wouldn’t recommend going over a several layer roof. When I got this building, it had 3 layers of patched up, tar, asphalt, elastomeric and stuff I couldn’t tell what it was, I was thinking thick rubber would fix it, but biggest issues was over the thick Tar spots, in the summer the tar would heat and crack, and that would cause splits and bubbles in the silicone for me… but I wasn’t really 100% on the proper prepping of the surface either. It should have all been torn off and redecked, before this was applied. So by the time the building sold, I had $8000 -$9000 in roof repairs for the 7000 sq ft roof, if I would have removed, redecked, and then did it, I’d say it would have been cheaper, and I could see this stuff lasting 50+ years if done right… although not sure how deterioration is over that long of time from the sun. Thanks for watching!
Not a fan of elastomerics but for some roofs that don't really need to extend their service life i guess it is an OK fix. Our roofing company has used pretty much everything out there over the last 25 years. We use only one products after 8 years of success and not callbacks. There is a Liquid butyl rubber made by epdmcoatings. What we like about it is that it does not need a primer for any of the roof types we have applied it over that goes for metal, BUR, epdm, foam but NOT silicone. also it is a one coat application so we close much more business with this product because we come in as the lowest bid! It is a solvent product so primarily the reason it last all the years. Cheers
Will this stuff stick to the edge of a mobile home where the screws are? I would like to be able to brush it on.
If you are only paying $77 for a 5 gallon pail of modified acrylic, you should expect those results. The best modified acrylic elastomerics are in the $200 for a 5 range. Both products have their drawbacks. The biggest one for me with silicone is that nothing sticks to it. That makes future repairs and modifications to a roof coated with it very difficult. I've been using modified acrylics for two decades and if you use a base coat, poly fabric, and top coat system it stands up well. The only drawback is having to have near perfect weather when applying it. Silicone is much more forgiving in that sense.
Even with "perfect weather", there's a bit of a gamble. Shortly after I finished the second coat of elastomeric coating to a flat garage roof on a late July afternoon, a "pop up" thunderstorm unexpectedly rolled in on what had been a cloudless day. In the span of ten minutes, my labors were now all for not...
Just did my 40ft 5th wheel roof with APCO 576 pure silicone sealer. No looking back, it’s a bit expensive but well worth the extra cost.
We all know the silicone is better on a flat roof but the elastomeric works real well on a slanted roof and is not wet after 24 hrs, it dries in 1 hour , my roof is slanted just a little and the elastomeric works great , I keep adding more layers every year to freshen it up , all my low spots I use the silicone , where the water pools
How do you repair bubbles?
I prefer the white because it reflects the sunlight . Sun on a roof damages it fast from heat.
Also before you use the white stuff make sure your surface is clean wash it off with a hose with a hose let it dry for a couple day days in the sun other otherwise the white stuff will start looking dirty, the dirt will mix and come through it. blow it off with a blower each before you work each time e even when e even between coats if there a day apart on the white stuff , let
water on it dry it's . blow it off with the cordless blower I use a battery one. It's elastic will dry in a few hours if it's summer time or Sunny day out Like 75 or above
Thanks for sharing this information with actual results. Great help and much appreciated.👍😀
Good vid. I had the pros do my flat roof that had old silicone. They power-washed, filled in all cracks with UNIFLEX FLASH and then 2 coats of UNIFLEX 44 SILICONE. THAT ROOF IS SUPER Solid. Like almost rubber.
I tried a smaller roof overhang myself with elastomeric. That stuff is so thin, even with a few coats. I would def go with Silicone, lot more cost, but well worth it.
to me it was a no brainer.
It depends on the application and situation. Silicon would be better personally for a flat garage at home where I don’t want to touch it again, but in facilities maintenance we have a limited annual budget so we need to stretch and that material price hurts. I can do elastomeric on a building in 2020, then have it back in the rotation for recoat in 2025, and I can do a recertification of the 5 year condition for accreditation. Labor doesn’t count in my budget and I got to keep my guys busy.
Dear Mr. Backend Handyman: That is a very informative video. What would be the solution for the elastomeric coating that is flaking. Are you able to re-coat silicone over it? thank you in advance for your response.
Also If you get puddles of water from washing being a flat roof take your blower you can blow the water off if you've got a powerful blower and they make some strong good battery ones
I use the elasto kool 1000 by black jack. And one coat drys in an hour and cures in 24 hrs. Its a 10year and is only $75 per 5 gallon bucket.
That is the elastomeric coating.... look at the 100% silicone. This video shows the difference... do you want a rubber coating or a thick paint coating?
Must be an upgrade to the elastomeric 700 in the video.. which was about the same price. Personal opinion.. it sucks
Roofer here, elastomeric is water based and when power washing a roof off the water will flow off white....loosing breaking down the product. Power wash a silicone coated roof you get perfectly clear water, what's the old saying the proof is in the pudding! Most roofers spray on elastomeric coating which is thin, silicone most of the time (unless you have a very expensive silicone sprayer) is rolled on which is much thicker. Silicone is superior but it is also more expensive. You will have to recoat every 3-7 years depending with elastomeric where as silicone you may never have to recoat! I prefer silicone coatings but depends on the customers plan for the building. As far as your video, cleaning it the way you did is overkill, power wash it off with a 40 degree tip watching how close you get to the deck, push excess water off the roof with a push broom, blow dry with a leaf blower, tape any seams or cracks, or use Sherwin Williams one flash, coat by dipping a 3/4" nap only pour from the container at the end when you no longer can sink your nap in. Most silicone says one coat is good I always do 2 coats.
Thanks for the info. I have elastomeric coat on my roof that I did a couple years ago. Can I apply silicone over it ?
@@throughmyeyesonly yes you can just power wash and dry it really good and repair any cracks or loose seams with mesh and repair product, also once you have gone silicone you can't put elastomeric over the top of that.
I'm in AZ and have a foam roof. Elastomeric seems to be the norm out here. Do you recommend any specific brand of product>
@@DK-cn2qr PDI makes a great Elastomeric coating if you want silicone APOC or Home depot Tropicool are great.
Thank you for the information. Makes sense on the elastomeric being water based. That’s exactly what makes us handymen less recommended for a skilled job. Like roofing, if done by a true professional shouldn’t be any worries. I really do hope people that watched the video see your comment. I appreciate the positive criticism. I now know for the future. Definitely a difference in price considering the silicone is 2-3x the price. Personally, it’s worth the price difference
You got junk elastomeric sealer. I've used it..... it wasn't wet a day later, and it wasn't soft like that 6 months later. I put it over some leaking spots in a shingle roof, it held the shingles together so tight I had to take the whole area of shingles off, the sealer bonded everything together. That was a good 5 years later.
Yeah it was defiantly poor prep on my part.
Elastomeric sticks and cures very well to shingles. To other surfaces you get different results, try it on a metal roof, it's a bit different.
It is crazy how many people misuse the term elastomeric in coatings. All coatings are elastomeric, all of them. Do they stretch, yes. interiors paint not sure much, but those aren't coatings. Those are paints. Caulkings, roof coatings, silicone, acrylic, urethane, polyurea, thermal plastics, all of them elastomeric.
Thank you very helpful. Glad I found this.
It looked like the dried silicone in the bucket tore pretty easily -- is that a concern. How does silicone durability compare to Liquid Rubber ? Thanks for the video.
Dave Bean it pretty much is rubber, and the elastomeric was easily torn but the silicone was like a rubber coating
You're an idiot.
There is a so called liquid rubber coating which is not silicone based. I have not used it, but reading the comments it appears adhesion is somewhat poor. You can read my long post on the subject, but I think the premium acylics are extremely durable and can be reinforced with fabric in any problem areas. Best of all it's easy to apply and clean up is easy. Any needed repairs are very easy. Use a brush or roller. Do not pour a large pond out onto the roof to roll out as is seen in this video.
@@JoeLinux2000 I'm not sure what is best yet, but some paint that I've used is extremely tough once dried and dried quickly. That said, I may have seen a difference to which stays adhered best when there is ponding water.
Yep and when it does and water gets between the layers it is there until you do a tear off.
Was the silicone product part number 5576-1-30? You think I'd have any issue with it bonding to house roof shingles? Thank you
I don’t know the part number, but I do t see why it wouldn’t. I’d be worried about it getting in the cutouts of the shingles though.
I drill a few holes in the lid for pouring
Never thought of that. Pretty good idea, if you are using the whole bucket!
Very inspirational video, thanks
Nothing wrong with going with the cheapest way if it works but do you have to remove the old product if it doesn't work in order to use the other? Aside from the wasted time, how bad did this set you back?
I used roof elastomeric paint on my roof's hatch and it drys up like a rubber sheet. I do not know what happen to yours, May be different brand performs dirrerently.
Probably different maker, and one of the other commenters mentioned it probably boils down to it being water based, and the roof was still little wet in spots.
@Backend Handyman which one is better for a building with a flat roof structure in a hot climate, that has water ponding issues ?
Elastomeric is a term meaning "Able to accomplish 200% elongation or more"
it is not a type. It's like saying hail rating, permeability, or flame spread.
Silicones are in fact elastomeric, in most cases.
The 2 products have different uses and resistances, what one is great for the other isnt.
Brusquely Roofing true but silicone is 100% that’s the difference elastomeric that was used was nothing like the 100% I wouldn’t waist money on the lower grade.
@@backendhandyman Lower grade what? I would agree it best to stay away from the cheaper acrylic based products like you used in the video. The cost of silcones is ridiculously high. It's probably more cost effective to just replace the roof.
@@JoeLinux2000 I don't understand replacing the entire roof. Once you do that, what are you going to coat it with? If not silicone, then in 5 years you still have a problem. Why not just do it right and get 10-20 years out of the silicone?
Thanks for the review. Very helpful and the silicone seems worth the extra cost.
Brandon Barber yes you are correct, if it’s a really good roof to start off with 100% is best. I will never buy the 7yr or even the 25yr again
Acrylic (Elastomeric) is not good for flat roofs because the solvent is water. Water will emulsify it after it has cured. Silicone is fine under ponding water and it doesn’t break down in UV light. Will last for decades.
@@jaythornton9844 Interesting. can you re-coat previous elastomeric with silicone?
Thank you this was very helpful
Thank you so much for an awesome video no doubt about I'll be buying the silicone you should get paid for this video lol
Lol honestly getting paid would be nice but I’m happy with people actually finding my videos useful and the complements. Like others have said in these comments that I don’t really know 100% what I’m talking about. But that’s what backend handyman is all about. Learning a little something didn’t know before, but yes I’m impressed of the silicone. And it is seasonal, so if you get it on off season (winter I think) it’s $100 cheaper per bucket
Thank you so much for your review! I’m convinced the extra cost for the silicone based product is worth it. Question, I’m going to use the silicone based product on my deck. After I strip off the old elastomeric coating which cracked and leaked over time, should I primer the wood decking before finishing with the silicone based product?
R 808 this stuff goes on like paint, one fair warning on a deck surface is once it’s on it’s slick, I’ve heard of people sprinkling sand on top of the final coat to create a less slippery surface, when it rains this would make a great slip and slide lol, but I just cleaned everything best I could and it bonded pretty good. They do have prepping methods but the elastomeric crap don’t seam to stick and bond near as good.
Backend Handyman thanks for your insight!
@@backendhandyman Sheit you ain't lying. White silicone, water, and dirt, perfect recipe to slip and die. Better put out a warning sign on your roof and a skateboard sandpaper walking path.
Thanks for the video & information, but did you record this with a potato?
Lol...
Either that or he smeared silicone on the lens
I think using a 20-25 year elastomeric coating would have been a bit more equivalent test.
It had both on.
I been told that silicone doesn't stick to concrete that good, have you had any problem with that? Thakyou
Yeah I haven’t tried it. In the idea of caulking this stuff is thinner than caulk so I think it would do fine on it.
Will silicone be ok to put on an older mobile home metal roof?
If it will adhere to it I don’t see why not. I used it on top of my box truck, and I’ve seen it used on camper trailers
use 3 coats......
Theres you tube videos where silicone on metal flat roofs got a pinhole, then the entire metal roof had rust, lmfao. lol. Don't do it. Im a year late. But go back in time and don't do it.
Any update 2 years later?
No longer own the property. It did keep piping up leaks though. Like I said it was a temporary fix to a long term issue. The whole roof was layered with previous layers of roofing, and didn’t help with the parts that were tar... the heat from the sun would actually heat the tar and make it swell and contract which impacts the silicone pretty bad. Especially if you walk on it a lot, little nicks and cuts can chip at the coating making it leak. Honestly I could see if it was original layer, prepped and layered as just that the silicone would last way longer than tar, and shingles. It really is a rubber coating.
Yeah I work in the coating industry. I can tell you right now, if you buy cheap products you get cheap results. I have been on silicone coated roofs before. They gave a tendency to blister and leak. Leave you silicone in your fish tank. When doing a roof coatings don't buy cheap crap. Using a base with fabric reinforcement and a top coat you can extend the life of your roof. Silicone is what I scrape off when customers are tired of leaks.
Michael Neely hmmm really, the elatometric blistered but didn’t have that issue with 100% silicone
@@backendhandyman yeah like I said we reinforce all of our coatings.
@@backendhandyman thinking it was Operator error
@@backendhandyman With all due respect, you clearly don't really know what you are doing and you used the lowest grade of acrylic. That fact that it didn't dry suggests something was way off, but it's hard to know what from the video.
@@michaelneely4851 So you reinforce elastomeric coatings? If so what kind of specific fabric?
8000.00$$$$ My word, a lot cheaper to put on a new metal roof, or even EDP.
Maxwell Smart yep, when I started the fix I was in a hurry and just wanted leaks to stop. “But” there was already 1” worth of preexisting roofing that wasn’t any good, mostly tar, and the problem with that is the tar when it would heat up under the silicone is would create pinholes and cracks. If it was a new roof, I’d rather do silicone opposed to metal roof because of the longevity and it repels the heat. And plus if it didn’t have the preexisting roof it would have been more like $3000-$4000 but that was also when I was getting it for around $200 a bucket that was one hell of a sale because now it’s over $350 per bucket. My roof sucks because it was used as a quick fix... I am a dumb ass but wanted to share my experience.
@@TNRAUCTIONScom Thanks for your comment. I'm in a position where I've tarred a roof a lot but it still leaks because it the tar cracks. Any recommendations?
pepe_sanchez I hat to say it but excessive tar and leaks due to cracking, I’d recommend re doing the whole thing. Like this has said I spent around $8000, trying to be cheep when I started this I figured 3-4000, but the leaks never completely went away, now on a fresh new roof, I recommend the 100% silicone for the final coat. It would last the 50+ years I bet, and if it starts to leak, after it already has silicone, a patch on a leak, I bet would be a lot easier and last longer. But yeah, tar.... I don’t like tar after this experience because the heat messes with it, but then again, after 50 years the heat and sun may make the silicone need completely replaced. But I haven’t see any that’s been there for that long.
@@pepe.sanchez Use a premium acrylic embedded into a fabric. Or use a rubberized tar also in conjunction with some type of reinforcement screen or cloth. Rubberized ashpalt is somewhat more difficult because it is messy, but depending on the drainage of the roof, rubberized asphalt can be more water resistant. (ponding water)
I’m not sure how you’re coming up with that
number. The 4.75 Gallon covers 250sqft. At $229. That’s $1.09 sq ft. EDP is $3.00 to $4.00 soft.
Can I use this on a high top van with a fiberglass roof ??
sure. you can second opinion it with the manufacturer. but they use it on top of RV and things like that.
I'm sold on the silicone for my rv roof
did you prime it ? i have a flat roof that leaks
No just cleaned it really good, I would say the elastomeric would probably work a lot better primed
@@backendhandyman Dear Mr. Handyman. What type of primer would you recommend if going with the elastomeric?
@@vikramparmar8093 I don’t recommend elastomeric roofing in the first place, however when I did this I didn’t prime just cleaned it really good
@@backendhandyman Thank you sir. I have a part of my roof that has an elastomeric coat from previous owner that is flaking. I am wondering if I would be able to re-coat it with silicone.
@@vikramparmar8093 well that’s where the gamble comes in. See when I did this, this roof had roll roofing, silicone, elastomeric, tar, even had some shingles in spots, when the elastomeric starts flaking off, it makes a poor base for the new coats to stick too. By the time we sold this building I had almost 10k in roofing product on this roof. And mine still leaked, most my leaks came from tar under the silicone roofing cracking and creating more holes due to the heat. Now the part that had the elastomeric coating I was able to go over it with silicone, as long as it’s thick enough coating… however, by the time mine was all said and done, I wish I would have just stripped all roofing and added a whole new roof, since I was doing it myself, it would have been about the same price as what I spent adding more and more coatings of silicone and elastomeric. Main reason for this video was to show the difference between the two. I’d put it this way. If the roof you are wanting to fix has several layers of pre-existing roofing this will more than likely be a nightmare, but if your pre-existing roof is really sturdy and in pretty good shape, try it out. I would recommend no less than three coats for the roof though, and if your not planning to re cover the whole roof, I’d stick with the elastomeric just for spot fixes, and if you can’t get it clean where nothing is flaking off it may be a waste of time and money all together, cause if I remember right the elastomeric gets kinda chalky and that would create a horrible base to coat.
Thank you almost wasted more money. Going with the silicone
you save even more money if you buy it off season too!
Thanks for your very helpful video 👍👌👍👍👍👍👌👌👌👌👍😊.
Silicone is the best for UV protection.
Hes doing something wrong because I just got done putting the elasto down and it was 79 degrees and sunny and it dried solid in hours . You also need to use dark printings so we can read it better it's really hard to see when you're making a video and i put it on with arollor on a flat roof 4 car garage I use the dural bright and it stuck to rubber too.
what are the best for bath and floor silicon or acrylic?
Silicon caulk is good for spots that will see moisture acrylic is good to use in areas that will be painted
@@backendhandyman I used acrylic for my house roof?
how is the best for roof coating?
Do you have a flat roof? Are you talking about caulk or roof coating or paint?
@@backendhandyman I have the roof of a concrete house and have insulated it with acrylic waterproofing؟
Hmmm never tried acrylic roofing just the silicone. Does it work pretty good?
If you were going to "paint" a vehicle that you needed a little durability,,,, what product would you use?
Never did that before, this stuff I wouldn’t do that with but I think your thinking of rhino liner
@@backendhandyman I've seen storm chasers use rhino liner on their vehicles. I just thought about using it on my 06 minivan.
Ken Hurley well honestly if you sand it down a bit, I think this stuff would be pretty durable .
@@backendhandyman That was my thought to. Using the vehicle as a hunting/fishing/camping and just enjoying the outdoors is the future use. I want somehting rugged, not pretty. Hey and I can do it myself!
Ken Hurley yeah I think the rhino liner is kinda like an epoxy, where two things mix and need special tools. This stuff isn’t really for vertical I don’t think though. That would be my biggest doubt about if you could use this. Don’t know how bad it would run, since it’s thick when you put it on. I’d say at least 10xthicker than regular paint.
Hi there are u mixed those 2 sealant together , prep clean the roof then roll it on ?
No they weren’t mixed before application, but video shows what each is like after it’s applied, however the roof does have both types on it so the roof is mixed with the two kinds, but no they weren’t mixed before applied
nice info thank
Most people dont understand that silicone roof coatings are NOT waterproof and should never be used in roof areas that dont dry 100% within 24 hours of a rain storm ending ,silicone also has serious problems with adhesion ,anybody who thinks silicone bonds well simply needs to go to any window caulked with clear silicone & watch how easy it is to peel off a supposed 50 year silicone caulk ,the proper coating to install over a torch down roof like we see here would be an asphalt based silver coat ,preferably a non fibrated prime coat with a top coat of fibrated silver coat ,the black coating drys silver ,has 100% adhesion to asphalt roof systems,and gives just as good UV protection as those Home Depot mobile home roof coatings .
i have a metal roof on a new house i bought that is showing some rust. i want to throw a coating on it to make sure the rust dont give me problems. im trying to understand coatings of roofs. from what i read there is 1. acrylic (old style?) 2. elastomeric 3. aluminum fibered or non fibered
im trying to pick one. i had 2 estimates and thy bth said they use aluminum. is fibered or non fibered better
is elastomeric a actual coating, or is it meant to be a coating with another coating added to it? 2 other people told me that elasto is best but with so many grades and kinds of roof paintings im totally lost! this stuff costs thousands and i dont want to make the wrong decision
Rust? Oil based paint. A roof coating is a waste of time and money on a house roof unless it's a flat roof. That is what the coatings are made for.
Can this be used on metal roof or shipping containers?
I’m pretty sure it can. Best way to find out it’s it should say on bucket, or may have a website you can see that at. Don’t see why it can’t. Would probably take a different prep method... not that I prepared it correctly on this but, it is more less like a really thick rubber paint. Only reason I’m not sure is because of bonding to metal is a pain in the ass with most paints
i don't see this silicone product @ lowes.
Is it true once you put the silicone on your roof you must always put only silicone on every time ?
R. Camacho I would say don’t go over the top of it with elastomeric coating, that’s just like painting over top of it, and the way it’s really slick feeling I doubt tar would stick. But if you go over a new roof with it on the sheeting and tar paper I’d think wouldn’t have to mess with it. My roof is such bad condition I keep finding new leaks where the tar spread that was underneath-it and caused a new leak.
It's silicone, so nothing will stick to it.
@@backendhandyman So you are saying that even after the silicone you keep on finding leaks?
Ms Nzbody yes, it’s not due to silicone though, it’s due to covering a really bad roof to start off with, the tar under it often cracks and moves making more leaks. If it was good solid roof to start I’m sure it would last 10+ years
@@TheSoloAsylum Yes, that's why I will never consider using it on my roof. I want something that is easily repairable. I believe silcones have the potential to create massive repair problems.
Never seal your roof with silicone! No repair will ever stick to it later!!
Have a pretty good point, however you can always add more silicone or put roll roofing over top.
the elastomeric coating needed a primer
My roof is like a 45 degree angle lol
No problem with acrylics if you use a roller.
Looks like the silicone coating was in place while you were prepping for the elastomeric. Scrubbed it with soap and you thoroughly rinsed away the soap residue then let it dry?
That would make some difference.
Not being critical but the way that you dumped the coating out would not be an indication of the application I hope.
Just so that you know, I am about to apply the same product (elastomeric) to my metal roof.
Right, just needed to let it fully dry first.
Thanks for the video !!!
Tell me a few brands we can trust. Silicone.
?????
????
this is a joke, doesn't understand the industry at all!!!
Well most DIY people don’t, this video is just to show the main difference between the two... don’t like it cool, have a good day 😉
Afraid to talk move on!
? um ok
lose the stupid audio jingle; it further detracts from a lousy video
"i͟n͟t͟e͟r͟e͟s͟t͟i͟n͟g͟"! i͟t͟ w͟a͟s͟ a͟ cl͟e͟v͟e͟r͟ , y͟e͟t͟ o͟d͟d͟l͟y͟ a͟m͟u͟s͟i͟n͟g͟! L͟o͟l͟ !
A͟n͟d͟ s͟o͟, t͟h͟e͟ c͟o͟n͟c͟l͟u͟s͟i͟o͟n͟ t͟o͟ t͟h͟e͟ s͟t͟o͟r͟y͟ i͟s͟,, o͟n͟e͟ v͟.s͟ t͟h͟e͟ o͟t͟h͟e͟r͟ , a͟n͟d͟ i͟t͟ l͟o͟o͟k͟s͟ l͟i͟k͟e͟ t͟h͟e͟ w͟i͟n͟n͟e͟r͟ i͟s͟,, s͟i͟l͟i͟c͟o͟n͟e͟ , a͟n͟d͟. i͟ h͟a͟d͟ r͟e͟c͟e͟n͟t͟l͟y͟ b͟o͟u͟g͟h͟t͟ 5g͟a͟l͟ e͟s͟t͟r͟o͟e͟l͟a͟t͟a͟s͟t͟i͟n͟,,,, s͟o͟,,,i͟ w͟a͟s͟ j͟u͟s͟t͟ g͟o͟n͟n͟a͟ s͟t͟a͟r͟t͟ o͟n͟ t͟h͟a͟t͟ t͟h͟i͟s͟ e͟a͟r͟l͟y͟ e͟v͟e͟n͟i͟n͟g͟i͟s͟h͟ , i͟ w͟a͟s͟ w͟o͟r͟k͟i͟n͟g͟ m͟y͟ w͟a͟y͟ w͟i͟t͟h͟ t͟h͟e͟ p͟r͟e͟s͟s͟u͟r͟e͟ w͟a͟s͟h͟e͟r͟,,
s͟o͟ w͟h͟a͟t͟ s͟h͟o͟ul͟d͟ i͟ d͟o͟??