I added a white coating like this to an asphalt addition on an old lady's house near me, after finishing three coats of the white sealer, it dropped the temperature in the house addition 30 degrees. You are right it really works for reducing temperature.
The " Yellowing " yoir seeing is an effect that's called " Brown Out " and it's from the oils in the asphalt bleeding thru the latex coating ,if you have brown out you have fresh mastic repairs ,or you didn't apply 2 coats thick enough ,it's best to coat all your seams and edges 1st and allow them to dry before applying your 1st coat ,waiting 24 hours for the 1st coat to cure and apply a 2nd coat ,if you do those steps you should get 5 years out of the coating ,if you apply a coat every summer or 2 the roof will stay white and watertight ,silicone based coatings last longer ,are more flexible but they cost more and require a primer be used before applying your white coat ,the quality brands require a primer .
I started applying white Roofguard 700 on my failed asphalt shingled roof about 10 years ago. The shingles were curling up so I backrolled the sealer under the shingles to flatten them back down. I used 4 layers the first time and a layer every other year after that. For $85 for a 5-gallon bucket of sealer, it was dirt cheap compared to a new roof. Ten years later I have a solid roof since I filled in all the cracks. Any bad spots I used 6 oz fiberglass to fill in. I'd now call my roof a forever roof. I don't know if anyone has considered this, but if you'd take a new asphalt roof, add a layer of 6 oz. fiberglass to the whole roof and Roofguard the entire roof, you could basically forget about a replacement forever. I left certain parts longer before re-applying and the breakdown seems to occur in about the 4th year. I wouldn't trust the advertisement but I'm probably not using this product as prescribed. As far as the value, I'd say a white roof makes a dramatic difference. The attic used to run about 145+ degrees midsummer. Now it runs about +5 above ambient temperature. When applying, use sunglasses during the day. It's blinding if you climb on the roof without them.
Interesting results. Silicone can last decades, this stuff is still doing ok for me. We have to be careful overweighting our roofs but all in all it's a good upgrade.
if you are applying over anything material you need the right base or primer coat so the color doesn't change. some manufactures refers to bleed blocker. some comes with it in the primer as 1 system
A roofer told me to not pressure wash the roof because water still remains and the elastomic coating will bubble up. If you would do it again, would you pressure wash your roof before applying the elastomeric roof? Thanks for the video!
The only thing I would change is to do it sooner. if I did pressure wash it tho, I would wait for it to dry thoroughly. For the cost and what it has over the years, its good the way I did it.
@@TRYtoHELPyou It's hot where I live, so the roof should dry fairly quickly if I pressure wash it. One roofer told me just to sweep the roof and then use a blower to get the rest of the dust off. Do you think it's worth applying two coats instead of one? Lastly, how did you get the 5-gallon buckets on the roof? Thanks for the help!
@@Samuelfish2k Actually emptying a third in an empty bucket and it’s no problem carry it up on the ladder. Better to use your brains instead of your balls in certain situations. I’m over halfway done coating my roof and am applying two coats of APOC 252.
The reason for the yellow is its reacting to the oil in the old roof,,you should have power washed it with a good cleaner check out Conklin coatings somethime
Is that roof Gard 700 last longer? I saw the video with the 50 year warranty and it says you won't have to worry for a long time , so does it last close to 50 years ? I wanted to know because one of those buckets its more than 200 dollars but if last that long I think its worth it.
Question please, is that best mainly for heat reflective and thus cool inside?. And are u recommends to vieweres?. What is the material cost for one square foot area
It's called a modified bitumen roof. It's a tar roof primarily used on flat buildings. And this product is turning yellow because you cant put it over petroleum products. Like modified or shingles.
TRY to HELP you NO ! under no circumstances use any silicone caulking due to silicone not sticking to anything ,silicone can be pulled off anything you use in on within a year ,all of us have pulled silicone off windows and stretched it just playing around ,for sealing holes ,screw heads or Laos in metal always use " Polyurethane " caulking like Vulkem or Quad ,Polyurethane caulking bonds to anything you put in on and will be stuck right 20 years later ,the Quad brand is sold at Home Depot and is nearly as good as the caulking industry standard architects spec which is Vulkem Polyurethane ,never use silicone for anything because it will leak ,silicone caulk actually requires a primer that's supposed to be brushed on and allowed to dry 24 hrs before applying silicone caulking but no home improvement stores carry the primer ,even with the primer silicone will fail in direct sunlight within 2 years .
rob armstrong I can tell you how to fix the raised seams in your metal roof and end up with a professional long lasting fix ,you want to use 1 of 2 brands polyurethane caulking called Vulkem ,or Quad brand ,the Quad brand is sold at all Home Depots for $5 a tube ,for running just a head of caulk 1 tube will do a 25 ft run ,Quad Polyurethane caulking comes in white ,brown ,dark bronze ,grey and clear but you can special order Red yellow and green . In your case you need 2 materials and 3 tools ,for tools you need a good caulking gun ,a utility knife, and a pointed trowel or flat blade 2 inch wide putty knife ,for materials you need " Quad " brand polyurethane caulking ,that will be your adhesive and waterproofing material, link below . www.ositough.com/en/products/view-all-products/weather-resistant-sealant-quad.html You squirt a small bead of Quad Polyurethane under the raised panels edges and push them down ,then you run a bead of Quad on the seam that is thick enough to be spread out 3 inches above the seam and 3 inches below the seam using a putty knife ,or pointed trowel ,next you want to increase the strength of the Quad acting as the adhesive holding the seam down by cutting a piece of 6 woven fiberglass fabric made by " Henerys " and also sold at Home Depot in 6 inch X 25 ft rolls for $7 ,take the cut to size fabric and lay it directly over the seam with 3 inches above & 3 inches below the seam ,rub the yellow fabric into the polyurethane caulking very well until the collar yellow is covered by the color of your caulking ,making sure the fabric stays 100% flat with no wrinkles or lose spots ,here's a link to the reinforcement fabric needed to cover the raised seams . us.henry.com/roofing/fabrics-and-reinforcements/183-yellow-resin-coated-glass-fabric Do not apply more Quad caulking over top the freshly repaired seam to cover the yellow reinforcement fabric ,leave the seam rubbed in with the fabric and move on to your next seams repeating the process ,after all your seams have 1 course of polyurethane and 1 course of fabric rubbed in wait 24 to 72 hours for the seams to set up ,I recommend waiting the full 72 hours for the seams to fully cure ,then apply a layer of Quad Polyurethane that covers the entire yellow fabric and extends a half inch last the fabric ,you'll want to tool the polyurethane in for a smooth finish using your putty knife, once you've covered the fabric where the top costs thickness barely shows the pattern of the fabric that seam is completely repaired and will last 20 years. BTW I'm not speculating on how to repair metal roof seams ,or giving you home owner experience advice ,I'm a retired Journeyman Roofer/Waterproofer with 4 decades experience making roof repairs for America's 3rd largest roofing contractor ,the repair process steps I outlined and the materials I suggested are exactly how a professional roofer would repair your seams .
I am getting ready to patch my metal roof and our Home Depot has both the Vulkem brand Polyurethane Sealant caulking ($5.27 a tube), and two different types of OSI Quad Sealants one is Quad Advanced ($5.55) and the other is Quad Max ($7.97). Both are called window, door, and siding sealant. One of the customer comments on the Advanced formula says it smells like silicone and somone else commented they thoght it was at least part silicone. So I assume the Quad Max is the polyurethane formula? But it doesn't say on Home Depots website and I can't see what it says on the tube. They carry only one line of Vulkem it just states Polyurethane Sealant on the tube and that's it. I assume that will work? It cost less than either of the Quad tubes. Thanks in advance.
I used to be able to touch my celing from inside and it would be very very warm. After the coating it was just kind of warm. Way less heat radiated inward. Totally worth it!
I have a vinyl dome roof that's leaking after 10 years exposure to the elements. Is this a good product for sealing vinyl that's lost its waterprood coating?
3:25 .... also 4:42 .... 5:58 .... this is the update video th-cam.com/video/6SgJwcxG3Oo/w-d-xo.html I will be unable to provide any specific temperature changes because it simply works at making my house cooler. Touching the roof from inside is now cooler to the touch, by a lot. It used to be very warm to the touch. If you want specific temperature measurements, before and after.... perhaps torque specifications of the safety peel on the lid, i invite you to google.com
It was either do it the way I did or it wasn't going to ever get done. Bleed blocker, though, I did not know existed so I will look it up next time. Thanks!
People saying "use silicone", isn't elastomeric roof coating a silicone and acrylic coating? It's suppose to be made to flex with roofs during temperature changes. It's suppose to be great for mobile homes with tin/metal roofs. Am I wrong?
No, there is Silicone, Urethane, and Acrylic elastomeric. He used Acrylic which is very much like a paint. Not really recommended for leak proofing, but does cool the roof.
Sold it a while ago.... I recommend steering clear of the v6 motors in those. The cam chains are trash. Consider getting an electric vehicle! I have reviews of a couple on my channel in the EV playlist
interesting. I agree to the last part of your statement and i dont look forward to your first part... haha. check out 4:00 and 3:36 for silicone remarks in this video as well
How long it lasts depends on preparation, primer, thickness application and most importantly the quality of the paint. The use of primer is recommended for elastomeric paint. Silicone base will adhere no matter what. If you don't pressure wash or at least wash with water it will peel off or make it bubble up. If you cheap out and apply only a thin layer trust me it will fade very quickly. People always cheap out and spend the least amount of money. Cheap paint is watered down or not as thick. Lowes, home depot paint I rather stay away from. If you're using cheap paint try to apply 2 to 3 layers or better yet try going with silicole based and it will last a long time but do at least 2 layer with it.
Mistakes and not knowing vocabulary are fundamental mistakes of humans, as well. Elastomeric/elastometric I still don't know the significance behind those words (the correct and incorrect one) and don't quite care.
@@TRYtoHELPyou LOL not knowing mistakes is very different than knowing how to read the instructions that are clearly on the bucket! but i do know that i try to research things i want to do, yes on silly youtube (lots of failures) and allot of other venues before 'just doing it'.
you should not go beyond 72 hours for recoat.. I use a Graco GH 230 spray rig with a 837 tip and put the elastomeric on about 4 times as thick as that. Just finished a 45,680 sq ft metal roof 2 coats 960 gals lol
+Martin Duffy holy crap. So the neighbors may not like the spray. I used silicone on a 50000sq foot building.. but only where we had leaks.. worked really well. I couldnt imagine foing the entire thing. Wow.
Ok. So for the non-roofers watching this: 1. Blackjack is the worst brand of "roofing" out there. Ask any roof manufacturer ever. 2. ElastoMERIC. There is no T. 3. You cant use it on ponding water. It will flake and cause more leaks. 4. You cant apply it over tar/petroleum based products. It will start to YELLOW. THEY WILL ROT EACH OTHER. 5. If you want to prevent stains, power wash not only the roof (which is just intelligent standard practice) but also spray the surrounding area before coating. It wont stick to a wet surface, so wetting things you dont want coated first helps cleanup. 6. Silicone also shouldnt be put on tar without a proper primer or surfacing. 7. This product (if buying a real brand) can be used to prevent leaks or make them worse, all depends on the installer. 8. Read the label. Dont just look at the pictures. His roof, which if he had used a good product could have seen a major reduction in his UHI effect (for you environmentalists) and reduced his cooling costs. Because he used the wrong product put on wrong, it likely will barely reduce his costs, seeing as he just opened himself to leaks and decreased the life of his roof by doing this. 9. There are water, solvent, silicone, and petroleum based coating (well, those are most popular. There are more). Know what you're using. Consult a professional or hell, DM me and I can help. All to often youtubers, without a hint of roofing experience, doom themselves like this. I cant blame them, because the knowledge can be hard to find (even when it's clearly written on the label it doesnt mean non-roofers understand the terms).
The stuff is still on my roof to this day. No flaking and the roof is no longer hot to the touch in summer. Doesn't look much different from my 6 month update video.
Thank you so so much for your professional explaination.I'm a lady about to have her roof coated. i have fund out that a lot of people (including licensed contractors don't get things right . So i have learned to learn myself about products and their use. I have a foam roof - white. No leaks. I want to recoat it. What can i use? Can you please give me the name of a good silicone product if silicone is compatible with foam. Bless you!
@@TRYtoHELPyou ok so for foam you will want to wash then allow to dry for 24 hours in warm temperature. in assuming you will roll it like paint Your best choices are: 2 layer acrylic, if you are only looking to buy you a short amount of time, cheaply. im talking 12 months max, If you don't get hail and your roof is IB decent shape. I recommend 2 coats because it will absorb into the foam. Karnak 501, Duroshield 5 (or 10. NOT 15 or 20), For about 10% more price you can get a better product: Karnak 502. or Lucas 9000 (I think 9000? many years since I used Lucas) even a single coat of this is likely better for foam. 2 coats of this could buy you years, come out brighter for energy savings (given foam roofs are self insulating this won't be much). it's also more environmentally friendly. lastly, If you are in a zone with no hail above 5/8", and are looking for maybe more then a decade, I would double layer Gaco coating, DuroShield 15, or Anvil Silicone (here's a little secret, duroshield 15 is a silicone from anvil. but if you ate in Texas or California it may be easier to find) with fabric mesh pushed into the first layer while it is wet, on any major holes. Those are your 3 best measures, cost efficient that is. Overall, Silicone is your best bet because foam is naturally your least hail resistant roof (.75 inch diameter hail can damage it, new), and silicone will add extra impact protection, unlike the other options.
@@TRYtoHELPyou See Brusquely above. I accidentally responded with the wrong account. I'm actually, eventually, going to start using that account for roof training videos. The one thing I will add is that dont trust people that obsess over "Elastomeric". It is not a type. it means capable of expanding twice its size during expansion and contraction. Stay away from the following brands: Henry, BlackJack, anything associated with lowes, GE brand. good suppliers would be American roofing supply, roofing supply group, allied products, gulf eagle supply, beacon roofing supply. They all sell coatings. Just be warned. Coatings are not a new roof. Coatings are patch work. think of it this way: You have a small crack in your window from a piece of gravel. So you put on a little nail polish make it nice and pretty and it holds for a few months. So you do it again and it holds for a little while only to spread even sooner now, so you can keep going through the process but at the end of the day you've got a window set you can no longer see out of. Instead of a small chip their professional could have six you managed to buy yourself some time but now you have to get a whole new windshield. This is kind of what a coding is like it can buy you some time but in the end it is not a solution it is a Band-Aid on a wound that can never heal. It's a great short term solution, and it can save a ton of money. Emphasis short term.
Glad that you "like it" but this is a bandaid fix, and is very likely to need maintenance in 1-3 years. A proper job would be pressure wash, let dry, and 2 coats silicone roof coating = never touching it again. Sorry but this is pennywise and pound foolish. Right now, you are happy but it is temporary.
Discoloration total from dirt residue should have pressure washed it however a 2nd coat would mask that. Dirt is one of the reasons this stuff does not stick unlike this guy follow instructions.
good was bringing down the temps. the addition is a carport converted into indoor space. Long before i came here "good job" was a very low-set bar. To this day much of the coating remains to the point where sun is still being repelled vs. when it was all just dark soaking up the sun.
You must be a product of our public school system. You have clearly added a t to the name of this product. It should be spelled and pronounced accordingly. Elastomeric not Elastometric.
6 month update here th-cam.com/video/6SgJwcxG3Oo/w-d-xo.html
I added a white coating like this to an asphalt addition on an old lady's house near me, after finishing three coats of the white sealer, it dropped the temperature in the house addition 30 degrees. You are right it really works for reducing temperature.
Very nice! Totes worth the money to just get it done. No need to soak up the Suns rays for heat in the summer.
plz justim tell me whats the condition of paint and is it still working to resist heat
Not too smart mixing the product without a drop cloth underneath and also wearing your flip-flops
The " Yellowing " yoir seeing is an effect that's called " Brown Out " and it's from the oils in the asphalt bleeding thru the latex coating ,if you have brown out you have fresh mastic repairs ,or you didn't apply 2 coats thick enough ,it's best to coat all your seams and edges 1st and allow them to dry before applying your 1st coat ,waiting 24 hours for the 1st coat to cure and apply a 2nd coat ,if you do those steps you should get 5 years out of the coating ,if you apply a coat every summer or 2 the roof will stay white and watertight ,silicone based coatings last longer ,are more flexible but they cost more and require a primer be used before applying your white coat ,the quality brands require a primer .
thanks for the input.. i must do an update video, its still exactly as it was when i laid it down. working really well.
I started applying white Roofguard 700 on my failed asphalt shingled roof about 10 years ago. The shingles were curling up so I backrolled the sealer under the shingles to flatten them back down. I used 4 layers the first time and a layer every other year after that. For $85 for a 5-gallon bucket of sealer, it was dirt cheap compared to a new roof. Ten years later I have a solid roof since I filled in all the cracks. Any bad spots I used 6 oz fiberglass to fill in. I'd now call my roof a forever roof. I don't know if anyone has considered this, but if you'd take a new asphalt roof, add a layer of 6 oz. fiberglass to the whole roof and Roofguard the entire roof, you could basically forget about a replacement forever. I left certain parts longer before re-applying and the breakdown seems to occur in about the 4th year. I wouldn't trust the advertisement but I'm probably not using this product as prescribed. As far as the value, I'd say a white roof makes a dramatic difference. The attic used to run about 145+ degrees midsummer. Now it runs about +5 above ambient temperature. When applying, use sunglasses during the day. It's blinding if you climb on the roof without them.
Interesting results. Silicone can last decades, this stuff is still doing ok for me. We have to be careful overweighting our roofs but all in all it's a good upgrade.
I"m sorry if i sound naive - but this product dries white or clear. thank you
@@MikeJones-in3uk The bucket should say white and it is. Don't get black which you can do.
Nice product and video does it come in black...
if you are applying over anything material you need the right base or primer coat so the color doesn't change. some manufactures refers to bleed blocker. some comes with it in the primer as 1 system
A roofer told me to not pressure wash the roof because water still remains and the elastomic coating will bubble up. If you would do it again, would you pressure wash your roof before applying the elastomeric roof? Thanks for the video!
The only thing I would change is to do it sooner. if I did pressure wash it tho, I would wait for it to dry thoroughly. For the cost and what it has over the years, its good the way I did it.
@@TRYtoHELPyou It's hot where I live, so the roof should dry fairly quickly if I pressure wash it. One roofer told me just to sweep the roof and then use a blower to get the rest of the dust off. Do you think it's worth applying two coats instead of one? Lastly, how did you get the 5-gallon buckets on the roof? Thanks for the help!
@@archstanton9703
With balls.💪🏽
@@Samuelfish2k Actually emptying a third in an empty bucket and it’s no problem carry it up on the ladder. Better to use your brains instead of your balls in certain situations. I’m over halfway done coating my roof and am applying two coats of APOC 252.
@@archstanton9703
Balls is how they built the Egyptian pyramids, so I’ll go with balls.😂
The reason for the yellow is its reacting to the oil in the old roof,,you should have power washed it with a good cleaner check out Conklin coatings somethime
Did they rename this to elastic kool? Looks like the same stuff
Is that roof Gard 700 last longer? I saw the video with the 50 year warranty and it says you won't have to worry for a long time , so does it last close to 50 years ? I wanted to know because one of those buckets its more than 200 dollars but if last that long I think its worth it.
I've been getting it for about $85 from Lowe's.
really??!!!
Does anyone know the difference between this and the Hydro-stop product and roofing system?
Question please, is that best mainly for heat reflective and thus cool inside?. And are u recommends to vieweres?. What is the material cost for one square foot area
TRY to HELP you
: answer this legit question!
I have leaks on my ceiling what is the best sealer for it some said not use cool seal
This help thank you
the black jack coverage per gallon what is it in sq feet?
What did you apply this on? I cant tell in the video. Did it have shingles amd you removed them or??!!
just straight on the roof. Tar flaps of some sort....
It's called a modified bitumen roof. It's a tar roof primarily used on flat buildings. And this product is turning yellow because you cant put it over petroleum products. Like modified or shingles.
did it reduce the temprature......
did it get dirty again after few months
I mention temp, didn't I? Also the update video. Check it out. Been years and still is in great shape all things considered.
I bought that product for a steel roof to try and seal overlapping gaps. I did 4 sq feet didnt work and the bucket is still up there 2 years later.
rob armstrong classic! its definately not for filling gaps. silicone on the otherhand does good with that. whoo man, two years.
Matbe i ll list it for sale on craigslist.....
TRY to HELP you NO ! under no circumstances use any silicone caulking due to silicone not sticking to anything ,silicone can be pulled off anything you use in on within a year ,all of us have pulled silicone off windows and stretched it just playing around ,for sealing holes ,screw heads or Laos in metal always use " Polyurethane " caulking like Vulkem or Quad ,Polyurethane caulking bonds to anything you put in on and will be stuck right 20 years later ,the Quad brand is sold at Home Depot and is nearly as good as the caulking industry standard architects spec which is Vulkem Polyurethane ,never use silicone for anything because it will leak ,silicone caulk actually requires a primer that's supposed to be brushed on and allowed to dry 24 hrs before applying silicone caulking but no home improvement stores carry the primer ,even with the primer silicone will fail in direct sunlight within 2 years .
rob armstrong I can tell you how to fix the raised seams in your metal roof and end up with a professional long lasting fix ,you want to use 1 of 2 brands polyurethane caulking called Vulkem ,or Quad brand ,the Quad brand is sold at all Home Depots for $5 a tube ,for running just a head of caulk 1 tube will do a 25 ft run ,Quad Polyurethane caulking comes in white ,brown ,dark bronze ,grey and clear but you can special order Red yellow and green .
In your case you need 2 materials and 3 tools ,for tools you need a good caulking gun ,a utility knife, and a pointed trowel or flat blade 2 inch wide putty knife ,for materials you need " Quad " brand polyurethane caulking ,that will be your adhesive and waterproofing material, link below .
www.ositough.com/en/products/view-all-products/weather-resistant-sealant-quad.html
You squirt a small bead of Quad Polyurethane under the raised panels edges and push them down ,then you run a bead of Quad on the seam that is thick enough to be spread out 3 inches above the seam and 3 inches below the seam using a putty knife ,or pointed trowel ,next you want to increase the strength of the Quad acting as the adhesive holding the seam down by cutting a piece of 6 woven fiberglass fabric made by " Henerys " and also sold at Home Depot in 6 inch X 25 ft rolls for $7 ,take the cut to size fabric and lay it directly over the seam with 3 inches above & 3 inches below the seam ,rub the yellow fabric into the polyurethane caulking very well until the collar yellow is covered by the color of your caulking ,making sure the fabric stays 100% flat with no wrinkles or lose spots ,here's a link to the reinforcement fabric needed to cover the raised seams .
us.henry.com/roofing/fabrics-and-reinforcements/183-yellow-resin-coated-glass-fabric
Do not apply more Quad caulking over top the freshly repaired seam to cover the yellow reinforcement fabric ,leave the seam rubbed in with the fabric and move on to your next seams repeating the process ,after all your seams have 1 course of polyurethane and 1 course of fabric rubbed in wait 24 to 72 hours for the seams to set up ,I recommend waiting the full 72 hours for the seams to fully cure ,then apply a layer of Quad Polyurethane that covers the entire yellow fabric and extends a half inch last the fabric ,you'll want to tool the polyurethane in for a smooth finish using your putty knife, once you've covered the fabric where the top costs thickness barely shows the pattern of the fabric that seam is completely repaired and will last 20 years.
BTW I'm not speculating on how to repair metal roof seams ,or giving you home owner experience advice ,I'm a retired Journeyman Roofer/Waterproofer with 4 decades experience making roof repairs for America's 3rd largest roofing contractor ,the repair process steps I outlined and the materials I suggested are exactly how a professional roofer would repair your seams .
I am getting ready to patch my metal roof and our Home Depot has both the Vulkem brand Polyurethane Sealant caulking ($5.27 a tube), and two different types of OSI Quad Sealants one is Quad Advanced ($5.55) and the other is Quad Max ($7.97). Both are called window, door, and siding sealant. One of the customer comments on the Advanced formula says it smells like silicone and somone else commented they thoght it was at least part silicone. So I assume the Quad Max is the polyurethane formula? But it doesn't say on Home Depots website and I can't see what it says on the tube. They carry only one line of Vulkem it just states Polyurethane Sealant on the tube and that's it. I assume that will work? It cost less than either of the Quad tubes. Thanks in advance.
That's awesome. Did you any before/after temperature measurements by chance?
+Home Solar Research thanks for the comment. Nope to ur question. Just less hot to the touch... No longer does it heat up the thickness of the roof..
Is this also good for a wood to apply?
yes you can apply it but I would suggest to also do a primer about .5gal per 100sqf and do 3gal of the coating elastomaric or silicone per 100sqf.
I don’t recommend this product I’ve used it and it Didn’t last. Black jack ultra roof 1000 or the black jack 100% silicone eternacote is awesome.
😂👍...love you dude. well done.
So, how did it help with your heat problem?
I used to be able to touch my celing from inside and it would be very very warm. After the coating it was just kind of warm. Way less heat radiated inward. Totally worth it!
I have a vinyl dome roof that's leaking after 10 years exposure to the elements. Is this a good product for sealing vinyl that's lost its waterprood coating?
No, use silicone, it fixes leaks better.
Yellow color is because you didn't primer the roof first But it will do the job
Been doing alright for years now, 👍
what is the difference with roof guard vs roof gard??
Is both work for cool roof purpose??
lol
U need to use primer my man! That way it won't turn yellow
Its affective and helpful
A before and after temp would have helped a lot. Is it cooler below? Who knows.
3:25 .... also 4:42 .... 5:58 .... this is the update video th-cam.com/video/6SgJwcxG3Oo/w-d-xo.html I will be unable to provide any specific temperature changes because it simply works at making my house cooler. Touching the roof from inside is now cooler to the touch, by a lot. It used to be very warm to the touch. If you want specific temperature measurements, before and after.... perhaps torque specifications of the safety peel on the lid, i invite you to google.com
Awesome ✌️ thanks
Should have put down bleed blocker to block the yellow bleed through
It was either do it the way I did or it wasn't going to ever get done. Bleed blocker, though, I did not know existed so I will look it up next time. Thanks!
People saying "use silicone", isn't elastomeric roof coating a silicone and acrylic coating? It's suppose to be made to flex with roofs during temperature changes. It's suppose to be great for mobile homes with tin/metal roofs. Am I wrong?
No, there is Silicone, Urethane, and Acrylic elastomeric. He used Acrylic which is very much like a paint. Not really recommended for leak proofing, but does cool the roof.
you sound like a cool guy to hang with
Bruce Wayne
Where can I buy those sandals???
Kinda risky with sandals and paint. LOL
Is the tracker for sale 🤔
Sold it a while ago.... I recommend steering clear of the v6 motors in those. The cam chains are trash. Consider getting an electric vehicle! I have reviews of a couple on my channel in the EV playlist
Great idea to leave it in a hot and cold abandoned car for a year.
Hiiii, How much quantity does it require for 600sqft?? Any idea.. Thanks in advance
google the product for the latest details. i think its 500 sq ft per bucket? But i cant remember
Brother in law works with this stuff and I worked with him for about a year.
Rule of thumb is 2 1/2 gallons per every 10x10 feet.
You need two coats of this. With the silicone you can get away with 1 thick coat .... Less work ...
the one coat i put on lasted for years before it started flaking thru, yep. Silicone though would definitely be better at 500 dollars a bucket.
I had the exact product put on my mobile home roof in 2015, it did not last through the winter of 2018-9. Not happy in Bend, Oregon.
Interesting. Yeah, I wouldn't put anything but silicone on a mobile roof of any kind. Ours is still sticking fine and reflecting sunlight's well.
Next time wash the roof first
the good guy it was power washed
@@lindal.miller5387 mine was to.. had a 6hp Honda doing it.. same results until it was scrubbed
this is a paint, don't use it, use silicone which is like rubber, it last years. the bad news is that you cannot put silicone over paint.
Should've used primer for better adherence if you didn't wash it. It won't last that long like that.
It has been years and no sort of peeling or anything. I'm impressed with the product, that's for sure.
Muriatic acid to clean your grips on the concrete
Used this stuff and only lasted two years. Go with silicone instead.
interesting. I agree to the last part of your statement and i dont look forward to your first part... haha. check out 4:00 and 3:36 for silicone remarks in this video as well
How long it lasts depends on preparation, primer, thickness application and most importantly the quality of the paint.
The use of primer is recommended for elastomeric paint. Silicone base will adhere no matter what.
If you don't pressure wash or at least wash with water it will peel off or make it bubble up.
If you cheap out and apply only a thin layer trust me it will fade very quickly.
People always cheap out and spend the least amount of money. Cheap paint is watered down or not as thick. Lowes, home depot paint I rather stay away from.
If you're using cheap paint try to apply 2 to 3 layers or better yet try going with silicole based and it will last a long time but do at least 2 layer with it.
Didnt even wash the roof...really!
Alucard Lledroc yeah man... Check out my follow up video.. it's working well still!
Open toe sandles!!!! Really.....for roofing work and mixing!!! LMAO!!
Amazing right?
Yea, he might actually get a little latex paint on his toe! Oh the horror.....
Unbelievable, why am I getting these noob video suggestions?!?
“inbetween blowings” heh
well explained thank you
Thanks!
So informative! JK.
Normal
reading is fundamental..........
Mistakes and not knowing vocabulary are fundamental mistakes of humans, as well. Elastomeric/elastometric I still don't know the significance behind those words (the correct and incorrect one) and don't quite care.
@@TRYtoHELPyou LOL not knowing mistakes is very different than knowing how to read the instructions that are clearly on the bucket! but i do know that i try to research things i want to do, yes on silly youtube (lots of failures) and allot of other venues before 'just doing it'.
ELASTOMERIC !! not metric..and YES 2 coats minimum, applied with a 3/4 inch roller sleeve.
+Martin Duffy i went woth one coat. I gotta publish a follow up video. The stuff worked perfectly for me. Elasto...merica?
you should not go beyond 72 hours for recoat.. I use a Graco GH 230 spray rig with a 837 tip and put the elastomeric on about 4 times as thick as that. Just finished a 45,680 sq ft metal roof 2 coats 960 gals lol
+Martin Duffy holy crap. So the neighbors may not like the spray. I used silicone on a 50000sq foot building.. but only where we had leaks.. worked really well. I couldnt imagine foing the entire thing. Wow.
And if your board cruise the channel and maybe you will be less bored :) oh ya now I just need you to mass produce videos :)
im tryin! getting better at the speed i would say.
Is trash coating
Try again.
Bwa ha "applying it"! HA Professionals will help.... Bwa ha ha ha
I think I heard this, in a movie?
Ok. So for the non-roofers watching this:
1. Blackjack is the worst brand of "roofing" out there. Ask any roof manufacturer ever.
2. ElastoMERIC. There is no T.
3. You cant use it on ponding water. It will flake and cause more leaks.
4. You cant apply it over tar/petroleum based products. It will start to YELLOW. THEY WILL ROT EACH OTHER.
5. If you want to prevent stains, power wash not only the roof (which is just intelligent standard practice) but also spray the surrounding area before coating. It wont stick to a wet surface, so wetting things you dont want coated first helps cleanup.
6. Silicone also shouldnt be put on tar without a proper primer or surfacing.
7. This product (if buying a real brand) can be used to prevent leaks or make them worse, all depends on the installer.
8. Read the label. Dont just look at the pictures. His roof, which if he had used a good product could have seen a major reduction in his UHI effect (for you environmentalists) and reduced his cooling costs. Because he used the wrong product put on wrong, it likely will barely reduce his costs, seeing as he just opened himself to leaks and decreased the life of his roof by doing this.
9. There are water, solvent, silicone, and petroleum based coating (well, those are most popular. There are more). Know what you're using. Consult a professional or hell, DM me and I can help. All to often youtubers, without a hint of roofing experience, doom themselves like this. I cant blame them, because the knowledge can be hard to find (even when it's clearly written on the label it doesnt mean non-roofers understand the terms).
The stuff is still on my roof to this day. No flaking and the roof is no longer hot to the touch in summer. Doesn't look much different from my 6 month update video.
Thank you so so much for your professional explaination.I'm a lady about to have her roof coated. i have fund out that a lot of people (including licensed contractors don't get things right . So i have learned to learn myself about products and their use. I have a foam roof - white. No leaks. I want to recoat it. What can i use? Can you please give me the name of a good silicone product if silicone is compatible with foam. Bless you!
@@TRYtoHELPyou ok so for foam you will want to wash then allow to dry for 24 hours in warm temperature. in assuming you will roll it like paint Your best choices are:
2 layer acrylic, if you are only looking to buy you a short amount of time, cheaply. im talking 12 months max, If you don't get hail and your roof is IB decent shape. I recommend 2 coats because it will absorb into the foam. Karnak 501, Duroshield 5 (or 10. NOT 15 or 20),
For about 10% more price you can get a better product:
Karnak 502. or Lucas 9000 (I think 9000? many years since I used Lucas) even a single coat of this is likely better for foam. 2 coats of this could buy you years, come out brighter for energy savings (given foam roofs are self insulating this won't be much). it's also more environmentally friendly.
lastly, If you are in a zone with no hail above 5/8", and are looking for maybe more then a decade, I would double layer Gaco coating, DuroShield 15, or Anvil Silicone (here's a little secret, duroshield 15 is a silicone from anvil. but if you ate in Texas or California it may be easier to find) with fabric mesh pushed into the first layer while it is wet, on any major holes.
Those are your 3 best measures, cost efficient that is. Overall, Silicone is your best bet because foam is naturally your least hail resistant roof (.75 inch diameter hail can damage it, new), and silicone will add extra impact protection, unlike the other options.
@@TRYtoHELPyou See Brusquely above. I accidentally responded with the wrong account. I'm actually, eventually, going to start using that account for roof training videos.
The one thing I will add is that dont trust people that obsess over "Elastomeric". It is not a type. it means capable of expanding twice its size during expansion and contraction.
Stay away from the following brands:
Henry, BlackJack, anything associated with lowes, GE brand.
good suppliers would be American roofing supply, roofing supply group, allied products, gulf eagle supply, beacon roofing supply. They all sell coatings.
Just be warned. Coatings are not a new roof. Coatings are patch work. think of it this way:
You have a small crack in your window from a piece of gravel. So you put on a little nail polish make it nice and pretty and it holds for a few months. So you do it again and it holds for a little while only to spread even sooner now, so you can keep going through the process but at the end of the day you've got a window set you can no longer see out of. Instead of a small chip their professional could have six you managed to buy yourself some time but now you have to get a whole new windshield. This is kind of what a coding is like it can buy you some time but in the end it is not a solution it is a Band-Aid on a wound that can never heal. It's a great short term solution, and it can save a ton of money.
Emphasis short term.
I did roofing for 30yrs. And I put this over smooth modified as long as the modified weathered some, it will reflect the heat.
Glad that you "like it" but this is a bandaid fix, and is very likely to need maintenance in 1-3 years. A proper job would be pressure wash, let dry, and 2 coats silicone roof coating = never touching it again. Sorry but this is pennywise and pound foolish. Right now, you are happy but it is temporary.
Happy three years and counting.... Worth the 75 bucks.
Discoloration total from dirt residue should have pressure washed it however a 2nd coat would mask that. Dirt is one of the reasons this stuff does not stick unlike this guy follow instructions.
No point in doing a good job.
good was bringing down the temps. the addition is a carport converted into indoor space. Long before i came here "good job" was a very low-set bar. To this day much of the coating remains to the point where sun is still being repelled vs. when it was all just dark soaking up the sun.
Nothing metric about it. E L A S T O M E R I C !!!
Elastic metrica
Lazy
You must be a product of our public school system. You have clearly added a t to the name of this product. It should be spelled and pronounced accordingly. Elastomeric not Elastometric.
I like you.