Dude. Thank you. I have 2 days of video showing that Same oil leak pattern under my jeep. 1st video when I discovered leak after oil change and 2nd after cleaning it up to see where it was coming from. I had those same fears and feelings of despair seeing my baby in that condition. Thank you for that thorough “troubleshooting” process and for not just talking a bunch of mechanic talk and parts and tools and actually using video for what it should be used for. Now to tackle this project. 😊
I just wanted to say thanks for the video. I just replaced my old cooler with the new dorman aluminum cooler. Your video was spot on. Those injector plugs were nuts to get off.
This problem isn't just the 2014 and up. It's any vehicle with this dumb oil cooler/filter setup. Did the replacement on my 2012JK several weeks ago with an updated aluminum housing and 2014+ filter and cap. So far so good. I didn't see cracks in mine as some people state their issue was. It looks like mine had more to do with the gaskets. I'm not wondering if it is the dissimilar heat expansion rate of the plastic and the metal block. Just to clarify labor time on this project will take you 4-5 hours if you clean everything properly before reassembly. This job will NOT take 45min. with disassembly and reassembly, despite what was stated in this video. Very unrealistic time. The top of the motor will have lots of oil from the leak and coolant from removal. The motor has deep valleys that will fill up. My 1996 Dodge ram had this issue with the intake plenum and it's belly pan. Causing the belly pan gasket to leak over time from the steel pan heating and expanding at a different rate than the aluminum plenum. It's a common problem with the 2nd gen rams.
Just did this job yesterday it was actually not too bad. Putting the fuel rail on was the biggest b. I would recommend putting it together on the lower intake out of the vehicle. Well done good video well explained. By the way mine was a 16 jk 70000k miles.
Thanks for this video. Like some of the other post I watch a fair amount of other videos in prep for this job and decided to follow this one of my effort and it went very well
Thanks for this content bro, there are lots of other videos out there on this replacement, I found this one to be the best. Just completed mine on a 17JK and so far so good, It was a bitch to wiggle out, and I end up pulling on the fuel injectors, so I needed to reinstall them which was a great learning lesson while under the hood. 👍🏻 happy new year 🎉
Incredibly easy job if you're somewhat mechanically inclined. DO NOT UNBOLT THE FUEL RAILS FROM THE LOWER INTAKE unless you absolutely have to. Intake holes strip very easily and bolts are not strong. One issue I had a very hard time with was lining up the upper intake just right. All this plastic crap is exactly that, CRAP. It's not cheap either.
Have a 15 Cherokee kl trailhawk same problem 155000km changed with aluminum cooler but problem was a seal contracting from really cold temps -25c in morning same process to fix what a pain in the ass except mine is the 3.2 l v6
Here’s the simple answer to where it’s leaking. The seals wear out. IF it’s not the seals then most likely someone has been tightening the filter cap like a damn gorilla. And that can cause a crack. Do your own oil changes on your jeep. Take it easy tightening the cap. No need to go nuts. Not need to ask for torque specs. Lol. It’s a f’n plastic screw on cap. Just snug it and be about your day.
@tdz69 that's where I was leaning. I do my own oil/oil filter changes, and I had noticed after my first couple filter changes, that the filter element was kinda distorted, and I reasoned that maybe I had been tightening the cap too tightly. So I started just snugging the cap, which has eliminated the old filter distortion issue. I, too, wondered if the reason some of these oil cooler assemblies failing was because of over-torqueing the oil filter cap causing undue stress on seals and the housing.
So, what really is the defect in this oil filter housing ? That all chrysler engines have this problem ! Is it the underneath housing sealing ? Is it the cooler itself stop to work and leak coolant with oil ??
This is one of the worst things I have had to do on a car - be prepared to break plastic clips, bolts, and the wiring harness loom disintegrates and creates a huge mess, all due to the heat trapped in there making everything brittle. best tip I have to anyone is pick up some picks from harbor freight to undo the clips on the injectors with, I did eventually - if you use a screw driver you'll break em, if you use your fingers they may bleed.
Be careful when removing/putting back on, I stripped 3 threads and had to have them redone, my suggestion is to tighten the bolts just a bit, don't over tighten those sucker!
did you also get the oil pressure sensor code?P06DA? That's what led me to the oil filter housing. i didn't even have a oil slick yet in my driveway, but lots of oil in the valley and on the transmission. I repaced mine with an aftermarket aluminum housing from amazon and used oem sensor and seals. I think the stock sensor was probably fine and setting the code because of the oil leak, but who knows. After 1 year did your oem replacement housing fail?
My mom owns a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee, my sister owns a 2016 Renegade and my baby sister owns a 2010 Wrangler. Having worked on all 3 of these vehicles I have arrived at an undeniable truth: Jeeps are NOT what they used to be and the Renegade is the worst headache to have to service and to anyone even considering purchasing any jeep vehicle should do extensive research before buying. Knowing what I know now I can promise you I would NEVER buy one unless it is a 1980 or older. Just wanted to say that because between the 3 there is always something wrong with one of them and makes me appreciate my 93 GMC Sierra that much more
I replaced mine with the Dorman all aluminum one. I also replaced both sensors. Now I have code P0197 showing. I did an oil change and refilled the coolant right after. I’m thinking it could be from not doing a complete coolant flush, any idea?
@@emanuelaguilar301 the oil temp sensor is your problem . Did you use the old one or install the one that came with the new housing? I’d reuse the old one if it wasn’t giving you issues before.
Make sure you have all the right tools. It’s not a bad job but takes a while. I have a 2014 and my oil cooler housing shit the bed in 2018. I’m going to replace it this spring just as a preventative measure. Jeep should be ashamed for the garbage quality.
"You don't want to do this job again so you should use an genuine OEM Oil filter housing.".... ahh the cheaply made plastic, yet very expensive OEM stuffed up like they all do! so get a Dorman aluminum one.
Those blue seals you replaced, was that required or did you opt to do it while you had everything apart? My ‘16 jk is about to have the oil cooler replaced.
Yeah but people stop buying plastic buy aluminum because in 5 years if u keep using plastic it will crack again I’m a owner of a jeep and I don’t have plastic I used aluminum and I haven’t had eney more problems nomore heating or leaking
HAHAHAHAHAHA Got good seals cause you never want to do it again. BUT You got another piece of chit plastic one? LMAO Dude, you should have got the Dorman All Aluminum replacement part if you never wanted to do it again.
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Dorman makes a aluminum one. that seems to be the go to for most mechanics replacing them. great video, thanks.
Dude. Thank you. I have 2 days of video showing that Same oil leak pattern under my jeep. 1st video when I discovered leak after oil change and 2nd after cleaning it up to see where it was coming from. I had those same fears and feelings of despair seeing my baby in that condition. Thank you for that thorough “troubleshooting” process and for not just talking a bunch of mechanic talk and parts and tools and actually using video for what it should be used for. Now to tackle this project. 😊
Thank you for also taking the time to get perspective shots in your video! Makes me feel like I am there working with you!
I just wanted to say thanks for the video. I just replaced my old cooler with the new dorman aluminum cooler. Your video was spot on. Those injector plugs were nuts to get off.
I changed mine, including pulling the injectors, but it turns out that you can leave them plugged into the lower manifold.
This problem isn't just the 2014 and up. It's any vehicle with this dumb oil cooler/filter setup. Did the replacement on my 2012JK several weeks ago with an updated aluminum housing and 2014+ filter and cap. So far so good. I didn't see cracks in mine as some people state their issue was. It looks like mine had more to do with the gaskets. I'm not wondering if it is the dissimilar heat expansion rate of the plastic and the metal block. Just to clarify labor time on this project will take you 4-5 hours if you clean everything properly before reassembly. This job will NOT take 45min. with disassembly and reassembly, despite what was stated in this video. Very unrealistic time. The top of the motor will have lots of oil from the leak and coolant from removal. The motor has deep valleys that will fill up. My 1996 Dodge ram had this issue with the intake plenum and it's belly pan. Causing the belly pan gasket to leak over time from the steel pan heating and expanding at a different rate than the aluminum plenum. It's a common problem with the 2nd gen rams.
FYI, change the oil,as coolant gets into the engine.no matter how carefully taking the cooler off some goes into the manifold.
Just did this job yesterday it was actually not too bad. Putting the fuel rail on was the biggest b. I would recommend putting it together on the lower intake out of the vehicle. Well done good video well explained. By the way mine was a 16 jk 70000k miles.
You could have left them connected to the manifold. I found that out too late!
Thanks for this video. Like some of the other post I watch a fair amount of other videos in prep for this job and decided to follow this one of my effort and it went very well
Thanks for this content bro, there are lots of other videos out there on this replacement, I found this one to be the best. Just completed mine on a 17JK and so far so good, It was a bitch to wiggle out, and I end up pulling on the fuel injectors, so I needed to reinstall them which was a great learning lesson while under the hood. 👍🏻 happy new year 🎉
Incredibly easy job if you're somewhat mechanically inclined. DO NOT UNBOLT THE FUEL RAILS FROM THE LOWER INTAKE unless you absolutely have to. Intake holes strip very easily and bolts are not strong. One issue I had a very hard time with was lining up the upper intake just right. All this plastic crap is exactly that, CRAP. It's not cheap either.
Have a 15 Cherokee kl trailhawk same problem 155000km changed with aluminum cooler but problem was a seal contracting from really cold temps -25c in morning same process to fix what a pain in the ass except mine is the 3.2 l v6
Why does NO ONE ever examine the housing closely and show the viewers EXACTLY where on the cooler housing where it was leaking?
No shit huh!!!!!
Here’s the simple answer to where it’s leaking. The seals wear out. IF it’s not the seals then most likely someone has been tightening the filter cap like a damn gorilla. And that can cause a crack. Do your own oil changes on your jeep. Take it easy tightening the cap. No need to go nuts. Not need to ask for torque specs. Lol. It’s a f’n plastic screw on cap. Just snug it and be about your day.
@tdz69 that's where I was leaning. I do my own oil/oil filter changes, and I had noticed after my first couple filter changes, that the filter element was kinda distorted, and I reasoned that maybe I had been tightening the cap too tightly. So I started just snugging the cap, which has eliminated the old filter distortion issue. I, too, wondered if the reason some of these oil cooler assemblies failing was because of over-torqueing the oil filter cap causing undue stress on seals and the housing.
Cover those holes ppl Lol 😅 nice video.!!
So I got the 2017 dodge grand caravan. I'm having the same problem. Same engine
It was very useful I appreciate it but the clips for the injectors was a pain in the ass and had to remove the fuel rail
I have a 2017 Jeep paid 1400 last weekend I had to change the oil casting that's where the leak comes from
So, what really is the defect in this oil filter housing ? That all chrysler engines have this problem ! Is it the underneath housing sealing ? Is it the cooler itself stop to work and leak coolant with oil ??
This is one of the worst things I have had to do on a car - be prepared to break plastic clips, bolts, and the wiring harness loom disintegrates and creates a huge mess, all due to the heat trapped in there making everything brittle. best tip I have to anyone is pick up some picks from harbor freight to undo the clips on the injectors with, I did eventually - if you use a screw driver you'll break em, if you use your fingers they may bleed.
This was very encouraging Mike. Thanks a lot, my man. I think I can, I think I can. Lol
Really appreciate the excellent video great work thanks from down under
Be careful when removing/putting back on, I stripped 3 threads and had to have them redone, my suggestion is to tighten the bolts just a bit, don't over tighten those sucker!
The torque spec is only 9 ft-lbs. What did you tighten them to?
@@wvjeepguy8178 50lbs
did you also get the oil pressure sensor code?P06DA? That's what led me to the oil filter housing. i didn't even have a oil slick yet in my driveway, but lots of oil in the valley and on the transmission. I repaced mine with an aftermarket aluminum housing from amazon and used oem sensor and seals. I think the stock sensor was probably fine and setting the code because of the oil leak, but who knows. After 1 year did your oem replacement housing fail?
My mom owns a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee, my sister owns a 2016 Renegade and my baby sister owns a 2010 Wrangler. Having worked on all 3 of these vehicles I have arrived at an undeniable truth: Jeeps are NOT what they used to be and the Renegade is the worst headache to have to service and to anyone even considering purchasing any jeep vehicle should do extensive research before buying. Knowing what I know now I can promise you I would NEVER buy one unless it is a 1980 or older. Just wanted to say that because between the 3 there is always something wrong with one of them and makes me appreciate my 93 GMC Sierra that much more
Hi, can't we change only the cooler without the filter housing ?
this also happens to 2013, so its safe to say 2013 and up not 2014 and up. I have the 2013 and this happend to me..
Yeah 2014 have one , but use aluminum don’t use plastic it will crack again aluminum don’t last for ever
i have replaced the cooler after a while got lake oil from rear main seal
I replaced mine with the Dorman all aluminum one. I also replaced both sensors. Now I have code P0197 showing. I did an oil change and refilled the coolant right after. I’m thinking it could be from not doing a complete coolant flush, any idea?
So what was the issue? What did you do to fix it
I just did mine and my engine light on too… what did yours end up being as i see u responded 8months ago?
@@emanuelaguilar301 the oil temp sensor is your problem . Did you use the old one or install the one that came with the new housing? I’d reuse the old one if it wasn’t giving you issues before.
Mines a 2013. Mine never leaked oil but the coolant side blew out
Where did it blown out from?
Where from
Dealer just quoted my daughter $1397.00 to do this,lol. Found the mopar part online for $168.00. Think I’ll do this.
Get the Dorman all aluminum replacement.
@@Hoax711 I heard the Mopar replacement is still plastic?
@@alani2071it is , but may very well just be waaay better than all the other ones simply because its for mopars
@@Hoax711recently alot of people have been resorting to it from plastic, but its been chunking up loads of bad reviews as well
Make sure you have all the right tools. It’s not a bad job but takes a while. I have a 2014 and my oil cooler housing shit the bed in 2018. I’m going to replace it this spring just as a preventative measure. Jeep should be ashamed for the garbage quality.
Would it help to drain the oil before you start?
OK dude we got it its not rear main good greif
How many hours to do that work?
Does anybody know if this part is inevitable to break or is it a 50/50?
Cause if it’s inevitable, shouldn’t Jeep cover this under warranty? Thank you.
It’s plastic. Replace it. This setup with the vertical oil filter is the Billy in flaw of the engine.
Is this also common on the 3.8 liter
Cant we just fix the old one with new set of orings ?
You risk it cracking
My motor is shaking after the install - any idea what may be the issue?
I know this is an older comment, but it’s possible you left a vacuum hose off or your intake didn’t seat properly.
what doesnt fail on these things? mines a POS
"You don't want to do this job again so you should use an genuine OEM Oil filter housing.".... ahh the cheaply made plastic, yet very expensive OEM stuffed up like they all do! so get a Dorman aluminum one.
do I have to drain the engine oil and the coolant before the replacement?
You do need to drain the coolant and it is a good idea to change the oil after your done.
Is it the same on a 2010? I cannot find videos on the 3.8L
3.2/3.6
what brand cooler did you use?
Didn't look like you torqued the bolts when reinstalling. Is torquing not required for this?
Yes they need to be torqued to 9 foot pounds.
Those blue seals you replaced, was that required or did you opt to do it while you had everything apart? My ‘16 jk is about to have the oil cooler replaced.
👍
Yeah but people stop buying plastic buy aluminum because in 5 years if u keep using plastic it will crack again I’m a owner of a jeep and I don’t have plastic I used aluminum and I haven’t had eney more problems nomore heating or leaking
HAHAHAHAHAHA Got good seals cause you never want to do it again. BUT You got another piece of chit plastic one? LMAO Dude, you should have got the Dorman All Aluminum replacement part if you never wanted to do it again.
Just had mine done smells like gas coming through the vents did you have any gas smells after replacing?