When I first got my coyote 5.0 I said "my god this thing handles so much better than previous Mustangs I've driven." But literally everything he pointed out was true. The pan hard bar alone is definitely a weak link. Shoot, mine was bent when I replaced it. The stock springs were good for cruising but so damn bouncy around turns. Glad to see the progression of this-it was pretty cool. Great video.
It is however plenty of fun to heel-toe downshift into a turn, trailbrake a little bit and pivot the Stang on that front-heavy Coyote motor! Nothing like readjusting mid-corner with a bit of throttle steer! I did this on my roomie's '14 5-Hoe and got him a bit nervous under an overpass. It was my first time driving her and I actually enjoyed it. This is all coming from someone who prefers a Miata for handling. Hahaha! Definitely a HUGE improvement from that last clunky model.
That's what makes it so fun. You get raw power when you want it, but the car can be figured out how to make it drive and handle decent in the corner. It's just a blast.
For those of you interested in what was done to this car for Day 2 here is the list. No welding was involved for installing this these parts. To gain clearance for the torque arm we generally remove a tab on the exhaust mid-pipe clamp to allow re-clocking which are the sparks you see in the video. For one person with a lift the installation time is about 10 hours plus alignment. We did it in 3 hours with 4 guys including a quick and dirty alignment and stopped for food and filming. After the track day Mike came back for a 4-wheel laser alignment and corner balance. Next step is big, sticky tires! 1. CorteX Xtreme-Grip street front and rear coil overs with JRi double adjustable dampers, camber plates and the ability to fit 315mm tires on all 4 corners (have not done the big tires yet). The vehicle was lowered approximately 1.5 inch. 2. CorteX Xtreme-Grip street watts link with poly bushings. 3. CorteX Adjustable street tubular rear lower control arm system with geometry correction brackets. 4. CorteX Torque arm system, which does not require aftermarket exhaust in most cases. 5. Eibach 3-position adjustable front anti roll bar. CorteX Spec rear anti roll bar that is significantly softer than the OEM bar. 6. Front drop ball joints to adjust the roll center after lowering the car and a bump steer kit to match. The key to the performance is all the parts working together and knowing how to tune system around the driver.
What was the lap time before and after? How much did all of those modifications cost? What was the on road drivability like afterwards? These are crucial bits of information you guys should have included.
I see some Ford butt hurt on here. you know, I used to be into that whole Ford vs Chevy vs Dodge thing...but then I grew up..and now I just love cars....just a thought.
1) I would also love to know the full suspenion package used - and what it cost, parts and labor. 2) I would imagine this can be adjusted or tuned to somewhere in-between very stiff for ultimate track performance and still get good ride/cruise quality/comfort. - What also fixes all or most of the Mustang 5.0's handling - the BOSS Mustang 2013 - and some or all of these have adjustable suspensions - where you can ride soft like the GTs or make it tighter for the track. The Boss Laguna Seca was the top track dog, back in the day, for 5.0 performance.
Funny cause the basic reaction from Mike is exactly the same reaction I have had after completing overhauling my '12 GT suspension. Bought the car for 40, spent 10 on doing various performance mods and now I have a car that makes me smile. Hell, it drives more like a car worth 70 grand now.
Can't wait for the new 2015 Mustang GT models to start hitting the tracks... thank you Ford for finally producing IRS as standard equipment, lol (not since the 99, 01 and 03-04 SVT Cobra) and I hear that it is a couple hundred pounds lighter, we shall see......
The 2000 Cobra R 5.4L 4V was IRS too. I am also antsy to drive a new 2015 and waiting patiently for Ford to release official power specs on the engines. I hope the 2.3L EB is better than expected and I hope the 5.0 is an over 450hp monster. I hope they get an 8 speed auto and 7 speed manual by 2016. I traded out of my 2011 5.0 for a top dollar before the official 2015 design release lowered prices. My lease on the vehicle we picked up in the meantime is up in 2016.
Among all the hateful comments, I want to say this is a really helpful video. I have an 08 GT and I know personally how bad they are at handling. I honestly want to upgrade it's handling before I do any power so this is a nice guide thanks!
This is probably one of my favorite videos that has ever been uploaded to youtube. You guys did a PHENOMENAL job, and it's pretty Damn cool to watch a grown man giggle like a school girl. CorteXracing, good job on the suspension build. It's absolutely amazing.
Aaron Elliott I agree I track my e36 and my buddy also has the same year GT but its all stock; and he can't keep up at all; but his is stock; except for a catback ; we weight both of our cars; mine was 2987 his was 3640 lol
I owned two E36 before my 06 GT. No doubt the E36 is a much better track car....better car in general right out of the box. But the GT is much more fun and I'm addicted to the exhaust note....it's like crack for gear heads. Both great cars but very different. GT needs lots of suspension mods to handle properly.
Yeah, I know I'm late to the party on this one, but noticed a few interesting things watching this video: 1) Torque-arm setup is the best performing setup on a sold-axle car. Ford when a step in the right direction with the 3-link, but a proper torque-arm is still dramatically better. The improved rear suspension geometry main upgrade in this example. 2) Watt's link is great when you are wringing out every last bit of tuning, a properly designed Panhard bar still works great though. 3) Proper spring rates and shock can be dramatic as well, but improved suspension geometry can do more to balance the car's ride control and ride quality. 4) As the driving instructor pointed out, proper braking is the first step to safely entering turns. 5) Next step: tires. While comparing before and after for just suspension mods is cool, track oriented tires can be the easiest and most dramatic change you can make to shave off track time.
Awesome segment. Goes to show it's not power being the only thing that matters. It means more that you can actually use the power you have. Getting used to the car and how it handles and working to overcome its quirks and/or modifying the car to compensate for them. It's very rewarding.
Great info! While my car is the puny V6, it comes similarly set up to the GT suspension wise since it has the performance pack, but there is only so much sticky Pirelli P Zeros can do. I was cracking up as Mike described the nose-heavy, brake divey, twitchy feel of the car. With 100 lbs more motor over the front, I can only imagine the GT is a little worse in those areas, but I still would love to have the extra 100+ hp. I am glad to see I was on the right track for modding my car. Power mods are and will be minimal. I'd rather put the money in the suspension and brakes. While the watts link is nice, I can do adjustable shocks, springs, camber plate, and panhard bar for about the same cost. Perfectly adequate for a street car that may see a couple of track days. Good program guys!
This season is pretty awesome so far... the production value has come leaps and bounds from where it was prior... keep up the great work... simply the most bad-ass place to hang out on TH-cam... thanks Mike and et. al.
That's why my car went to Shelby American. It not only get the GT350 package, I also went a couple steps further. By going with the wide-body kit. Which allows 10 inch wide wheels in the front and 13 in the back. A chassis stiffening with subframe connectors and a Watts link set up in the back. A completely adjustable front and rear suspension and lastly, 700 hp at the crank. Anymore horsepower and I would have to pull the motor and build up the bottom end. It will be track driven after the four point roll cage and fire suppression has been installed. Shelby American will not install it, because of insurance issues. Which sucks! I'm seriously considering joining the Spring Mountain Motorsport Resort. It's a beautiful track and resort just 45 minutes north of Las Vegas.
Putting on slicks will and lighter wheels will only increase the threshold of when the handling issues will manifest itself. The car will have faster lap times, but will have the same handling issues. It's better to fix the problem first instead of masking it.
That was a very well done video. Loved the creative "hands-on" camera angles. Filip is a heck of an engineer and his designs continue to impress. I had the opportunity to talk with him at length during the Pirelli World Challenge races in Toronto this past summer. He's a gentleman with a brilliant mind. I hope all is well Fil. Keep up the good work!
Hehe, the camera work during the build phase with all the people running about doing their jobs to that music gave a sense of little elfs running around in santa's toy factory. :D
Almost felt philosophical. I got a 2013 v6 and I absolutely freaking love it. Even when it's completely stock, it's so much fun, I gotta get rid of that body roll though. Oddly enough, if you get a body roll on a BMW or a Nissan Maxima, even though they make similar horse power, nobody really cares because we think Mustang is a track car, when it's really not, at least not out of the box. But this video shows what it can do, when modified properly.
Hey Musto, you just saved me a hell of a lot of time doing research. I have a 2013 GT and plan to modify it. Now I know what I'm going to do to it. Your best video so far.
I can tell that you're impressed by the improved handling dynamics of the Mustang! Cortex seems to be situated between Grigg's Racing and Maximum Motorsports, or at least my impression. I am a fan of the current mustang, but contact patch and compound also seem to be major limitations to consistent lap times! I really enjoyed this addition to your content, and I think you have greatly improved your on air presence! Have fun with the new toy, and keep us abreast of your improvement!
Your new project peeked my interests, so I looked into wheels, and, in this niche market, aren't inexpensive. A relatively affordable option is (Jongbloed Racing's) JRS 700s -18 x 10.5 w/.45mm back spacing(check with the kid from Cortex on the tire brand he recommends) this will allow you to install 305's all the way around. With the correct compound, even take offs, your going to really haul the mail! PS Apparently their are two suppliers who essentially say the same thing and, I didn't see Cortex's web page till after posted! I'm still excited to see your projects progress!
Thank you so much for that video. I am looking for information on Mustang track tuning and this is the first video on mods that is not about drag racing or pimp my ride style mods.
Now that it's been sorted out, I hope you'll consider coming down south to run the Ultimate Street Car event at Auto Club Speedway in June. I need more late model Mustangs to run against!
In short, track to identify weaknesses, and tune to fix them. For muscle cars, you may have to look at the suspension. For something like a Miata, you can add power. Simple mods like brake pads are good in general. Though it wasn't said, but tires are the most important thing and you should buy the most you can afford.
I wasn't really a fan of mustangs until i drove my step dads 2014 mustang gt. Mustangs were always big and heavy and had so much body roll. But this 2014 with the track pack and recaros is an awesome ride. It handles like a sports car, its still feels heavy but it's controllable. The 6 speed manual w/ the 3.73 ratio is really close in gears. I had to get use to shifting, but after that it was smooth sailing. Suspension is tight but def wouldn't mind driving it as a daily car. Brembos were awesome. If your in the market for one, i would def get one, there practically giving them away now!
Watts linkage, just like the Aussie Falcon used from 1981 to 1998, the same setup that all V8 Supercars including GM used with a Ford 9" up till about 2011 when they went to IRS. My 97 Falcon has that with twin wish bones at the front, great handing car for its size and age.
My coyote 5.0 was exactly like this off the lot; bouncy, wheel hop, tons of roll in the turns. I was like wtf? With all that power, it was a little dangerous for anyone who knows how a car should handle. I put on an Eibach pro suspension kit, springs, struts, shocks, roll bar, which over all lowered the car about an inch and a half. Replaced the panhard bar and lower control arms. Threw on a set of staggered Foose 20's" with Zredestein tread and it definitely got things going in the right direction. Caution: If you lower this car, get a camber kit as well or you will eat up tires quickly. This years' 5.0 definitely needs suspension upgrades.
First mods I did on my 2013 stang include koni yellow shocks and struts, eibach pro kits, steeda HD mounts and toyo tires. Believe me, the car isn't a mustang anymore. It turns fast, responsive, more stable and eliminated nose dive. Stock suspension fails a lot.
PS I'm sold on your torque arm! I'll be emailing you some questions. I think I'll be sticking with my konis and ffr stuff for now. But that torqe arm and watts are sick!
Many people are asking about price. Can’t comment on price but here’s what they changed based on the video: 1. Coilovers with camber caster plates 2. Tie rods/end links 3. (This is a guess) ball joints 4. Rear lower control arms with relocation brackets 5. Watts link 6. Sway bar relocation brackets 7. Sway bar It looks like they also did the rear brakes. All of this is what I noticed. Chime in if you see more.
There are a lot of moments when you´re driving one handed and don´t shift. Keep both hands on the wheel as long as possible. Get your body possition right. Good seat and harnesses are also vital to keep your body in the same place, so you don´t need to hold the steering wheel so tight. Lighter wheels do a lot and you don´t need slicks, there are many options in track tires. Slicks bite on the limit.
This great Input on what to do with a "given" type of car, what you should have mentioned is the cost of those modifications so that your listeners can judge if they can afford them or not, I shouldn't be mentioning this.
Sorry if this was asked before, but what kind of costs were you looking at for so many changes? Assuming someone wasn't on an accelerated build schedule of 1 night... new springs and shocks, watts linkage, roll center modifications... All of these seem like a decent amount of labor going in, unless the roll center mods came from aftermarket control arms.
I have a Mustang GT but really a car this heavy I don't consider to be a track weapon. I might lightly mod the car like in the vid and it's fun on the track but if I want a track car I would go with something lighter. Not a Z28 as some people, laughably, suggest. I bought a 2nd car for a more serious track car a Skyline GTS-T. Something with a simple drivetrain, great handling, light, aftermarket support, etc. RWD Skyline (GTS-T/GTT), 350/370z, Miata, S2000, E30, E36, RX8/7, etc. 350/370z is the top end in terms of weight I would consider. Most of those are around 3000lbs, or less. Anything above 3300lbs is getting heavy for a track car. 3600lbs or 4000lbs is ridiculous, no point in a serious build.
You've perhaps heard the extension of the saying "You can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear"? (it goes "but you can make a very fast pig"). That's hotrodding distilled to its essence, and it works quite well when you can't or don't care to justify maintaining a car you can't use anywhere but on the track (and which would require a trailer and yet another vehicle to support its single use). That said, I'd think something more along the lines of a Locost or some sort of FrankenSprite would make for a really entertaining track toy that would make most of those imported cars on your list seem a bit out of their element by comparison. Think sub-1800 lbs instead. Norm
I have fulfilled a dream of mine last year and bought a 350Z Nismo. It was surprisingly cheap (at least over here in Germany) to buy and maintain, offers exciting and precise handling, plenty of grip... the whole deal. Plus, spare parts and quality aftermarket parts are easily available. I daresay you can´t get more bang for you buck when looking for a lightweight, RWD everyday usable car. I have never been in an RX-7 though, so that could be even better. But to my knowledge, it is hard to come by any that still work properly and the good ones aren´t exactly cheap.
Buy a sportbike then if all you care about is weight. You can pop sticky tires on a Miata and never have to let off the throttle on the track. That may be fine for you but I like going faster than 115 mph.
***** The video and our posts were about cars. You chiming in like that is like a group of people debating which kind of apple they like and you walk by them and tell them they should eat an orange. It´s OK that you like oranges better, but it´s just not at all relevant to the discussion.
Jeremy J. A Mustang and S2000 are not the same fruit on a track. The video, for relevance, is about making a heavy Mustang more suitable for a track, NOT what type of car is better for the track off the factory floor.
Nice suspension set up. Watts link looks like it kept the rear end tight. Did you notice a big difference switching from the stock Brembos to the Willwoods? I was surprised to see you change the brakes out.
my sn95 had bad handling too everytime id hit the track, the nosedive (as pointed out) was ridiculous and gets me everytime. Luckily, I thought of purchasing koni shocks/springs, (which I did later on) and that changed everything best $800 spent
Love the before/after episodes! It looks like you just put $10k of parts and service into that car though. After that significant upgrade you need to come to grip with the fact you may have started off with the wrong type of DD/track car.
A watts link bar, new struts/springs, rear brake upgrade, and camber adjustments would be less than 3k. Having a shop do it for you might be a different story.
Rex Overbey Just commenting on parts. The Watt's Link is in the $1000 range depending on chosen brand. The rear brakes I bought run about $500, but can be a lot more if you go extreme. Camber plates on their own are $300-500, but can be included with certain coilovers. A simple spring and shock upgrade will be about $1100, but the JRi coilover setup shown in the video is around $4700 total for all 4 corners. That's a lot, but it will transform the car.
DirtyD Mikes car only had Wilwood pads and rotors, not a full brake kit. My preference on a budget would be OEM Brembo calipers with track pads and the Ford Racing brake duct kit.
fantastic presentation...! the only question i have is.: assuming the car is a daily driver, do any of the shown adjustments and/or parts change present any relatively significant compromise for everyday use ?
I don't like the idea how he says to modify the car in stages. Most people in the performance world start with bolt-on's when they should start with a good programmable ECU (not a cheap chip) this way you can program every upgrade there after and have it work.
walperstyle Unless you're [blindly] following somebody else's formula, modifying in stages is exactly what you need to be doing. Find what needs the most fixing, do the one or maybe two things to fix that, and drive it some so you can see what you need to work on next. Lather, rinse, repeat. I wouldn't bother looking past the FRPP tune at least in the beginning. Keep in mind that what you DON'T want on a road course (or even more so at an autocross) is the too-eager throttle opening that impresses all the street wanna-be's. Later on, maybe there's enough value in a custom tune, as long as it doesn't tip the throttle in too quickly at small throttle plate openings either. Norm
Tires for sure, but not right off the bat if you're a newbie to track days. Just drive the car equipped the way you're accustomed to driving it, with DOT4 brake fluid and maybe entry-level track pads at most. 255's really aren't enough once you've gained a little seat time, but they're plenty good for a newbie (and they might be a good rain tire size even after more experience is gained). I'd get tires and wider wheels, deal with camber correction, maybe swap springs and/or sta-bars, and drive it a while on Konis rather than jump straight away to coilovers as part of a first step. Norm
Norm Peterson i hate this assumption that anyone modding a mustang is a newb, if your getting a mustang for a track toy it should NOT b your first car! thats retarded! and anyone who claims to be a "car guy" would know exactly why mustangs suck on track, they neeeed brakes tyres and chassis rigidity to even come close to enjoyable on track, I love my mustang but not without the chassis reinforcement bars and big brake kit i have on it. spending 10k rite off the bat on a mustang is soooo easy without even touching the engine, a 01' cobra IRS swap, wilwood brake kit, OS giken super lock 8.8 diff, coil overs, swaybars, reinforcing bars, 305's all around, is just a start. fuck the watts link IRS son!
Frankly, when it comes to a known chassis like a Mustang. I have no problem copying the performance of others. Stick with what works, but I will always stand behind starting with a good ECU to start with. Then all other mods afterward will fall into place easier. Turbo, Supercharger, fuel injectors, cams etc.
Finally keeping up with the Miata! Lol. But yeah, Mustangs can handle well. We actually got a bunch of them in our local Autocross. I love seeing them run. Still not as competitive as the Miatas, S2000s, and BRZs. But that's to be expected from the tight courses we get around here.
Good stuff. How much would those mods cost to average joe? Definitely will look into the panard bar replacement system. Does it use a torsion/spring or what
I'm all for performance and everything. I like going to the track myself, but how does it feel on the road now that they did that? Beacause 95% of the time not on the track. I have a friend that did all of this to his 2011 mustang gt and ended up selling it because it felt like shit on the street. I say that if your gonna do this, you should go all out on a car that is not your daily driver
I'm a a BMW fan. But I saw a comparo where the e92 m3 and the Mustang fgt went toe to toe on a racetrack. So I'd think twice about calling a mustang a slouch on the racetrack. I've seen them on the track personally and they are not as bad a as people think they are not the 2013 up at least. I can't wait to see what the new model does with the independent rear.
Great video, and it's a very scientific approach far removed from the pissing contests of inflated HP/torque figures people like to engage in. Brake, tire and suspension mods, when properly done, can be felt much more often than peak power. Let's see more of these, /DRIVE.
Mike has Sennheisers! I think those are the same pairs I have (using right now). 280 HD pro? It's so surreal seeing the stuff you (you as anyone in general) have on camera.
I'm not sure why people say the Mustangs are not good track cars. You all may want to look at the tracks across north America and it is seems to me there are an awful lot of Mustangs competing and winning. Right out of the box these cars are very capable. Add a little bit of money and they are lethal weapon on the track.
This was the most enjoyable episode starring Musto that I've seen. The music seemed different throughout and created a nice atmosphere. Shazam, guys. Shazam.
The Z28's 75GRAND! Let's see how the 2015 GT does with the new suspension. I'd probably lightly modify it (polyurethane suspension bushings, Billsteins, and some of the things they discussed in the vid.) for use on the street. I have no interest in a pure track car and certainly no 75GRAND for a Z28. I just want a better handling, daily driver, Mustang GT.
That is EXACTLY like the mustang I had. I didn't think there would be too many cars like that out there. Buy it used from carmax by any chance around last December?
That chevy wants you to give like $70,000 when you can get a Mustang Gt for $28,000. The Chevy too is over 4,000 lbs. Might as well mod a SUV. Nothing is sporting about a car that heavy at all.
***** a lot goes into why the z28 is fast.. 305 tires in the front is retarded yeah its grip but its a lot more drag than a regular 275 or smaller tire in the front
When I first got my coyote 5.0 I said "my god this thing handles so much better than previous Mustangs I've driven." But literally everything he pointed out was true.
The pan hard bar alone is definitely a weak link. Shoot, mine was bent when I replaced it.
The stock springs were good for cruising but so damn bouncy around turns. Glad to see the progression of this-it was pretty cool. Great video.
How many of them bit where and or are on your cars shopping list?
Dude it's like every car video I watch you're up on the comments! Guess car enthusiasts are about it.
It is however plenty of fun to heel-toe downshift into a turn, trailbrake a little bit and pivot the Stang on that front-heavy Coyote motor! Nothing like readjusting mid-corner with a bit of throttle steer! I did this on my roomie's '14 5-Hoe and got him a bit nervous under an overpass. It was my first time driving her and I actually enjoyed it. This is all coming from someone who prefers a Miata for handling. Hahaha! Definitely a HUGE improvement from that last clunky model.
That's what makes it so fun. You get raw power when you want it, but the car can be figured out how to make it drive and handle decent in the corner. It's just a blast.
I liked your RSX vid
For those of you interested in what was done to this car for Day 2 here is the list. No welding was involved for installing this these parts. To gain clearance for the torque arm we generally remove a tab on the exhaust mid-pipe clamp to allow re-clocking which are the sparks you see in the video. For one person with a lift the installation time is about 10 hours plus alignment. We did it in 3 hours with 4 guys including a quick and dirty alignment and stopped for food and filming. After the track day Mike came back for a 4-wheel laser alignment and corner balance. Next step is big, sticky tires!
1. CorteX Xtreme-Grip street front and rear coil overs with JRi double adjustable dampers, camber plates and the ability to fit 315mm tires on all 4 corners (have not done the big tires yet). The vehicle was lowered approximately 1.5 inch.
2. CorteX Xtreme-Grip street watts link with poly bushings.
3. CorteX Adjustable street tubular rear lower control arm system with geometry correction brackets.
4. CorteX Torque arm system, which does not require aftermarket exhaust in most cases.
5. Eibach 3-position adjustable front anti roll bar. CorteX Spec rear anti roll bar that is significantly softer than the OEM bar.
6. Front drop ball joints to adjust the roll center after lowering the car and a bump steer kit to match.
The key to the performance is all the parts working together and knowing how to tune system around the driver.
What’s the average price for that work. ?
@@SLOTHXx look up the prices on theCortex website, then figure 10 hours for installation @100/hr at a decent shop
cortexracing.com/product/xtreme-grip-s197-suspension-system-track-complete-system-2005-2014-mustang/
I wish you guys would have posted the lap times and cost of parts and labor.
Those coil overs alone are like 5k lol
What was the lap time before and after? How much did all of those modifications cost? What was the on road drivability like afterwards? These are crucial bits of information you guys should have included.
they didn't because this video is an advertisement
MuscleCarOz yeh.. not very objective.. guy probably got a deal on the mods and all he had to say is "wow.. it's a different car!!" everybody wins!
$5,000
I see some Ford butt hurt on here. you know, I used to be into that whole Ford vs Chevy vs Dodge thing...but then I grew up..and now I just love cars....just a thought.
Which is exactly the right attitude!
What are ya driving nowadays?
two important things that were left out:
1) how much does this suspension upgrade cost?
2) does it ruin the ride quality on the streeT?
1) I would also love to know the full suspenion package used - and what it cost, parts and labor.
2) I would imagine this can be adjusted or tuned to somewhere in-between very stiff for ultimate track performance and still get good ride/cruise quality/comfort.
- What also fixes all or most of the Mustang 5.0's handling - the BOSS Mustang 2013 - and some or all of these have adjustable suspensions - where you can ride soft like the GTs or make it tighter for the track. The Boss Laguna Seca was the top track dog, back in the day, for 5.0 performance.
@@drx1xym154 try the post below yours
Whether you like mustangs or not, this was a great video and quite eye opening.
Funny cause the basic reaction from Mike is exactly the same reaction I have had after completing overhauling my '12 GT suspension. Bought the car for 40, spent 10 on doing various performance mods and now I have a car that makes me smile. Hell, it drives more like a car worth 70 grand now.
Can't wait for the new 2015 Mustang GT models to start hitting the tracks... thank you Ford for finally producing IRS as standard equipment, lol (not since the 99, 01 and 03-04 SVT Cobra) and I hear that it is a couple hundred pounds lighter, we shall see......
The 2000 Cobra R 5.4L 4V was IRS too. I am also antsy to drive a new 2015 and waiting patiently for Ford to release official power specs on the engines. I hope the 2.3L EB is better than expected and I hope the 5.0 is an over 450hp monster. I hope they get an 8 speed auto and 7 speed manual by 2016. I traded out of my 2011 5.0 for a top dollar before the official 2015 design release lowered prices. My lease on the vehicle we picked up in the meantime is up in 2016.
hendo337 That's a lot of hoping.
Among all the hateful comments, I want to say this is a really helpful video. I have an 08 GT and I know personally how bad they are at handling. I honestly want to upgrade it's handling before I do any power so this is a nice guide thanks!
Did you end up doing it?
put a couple racing stripes and you'll gain 50hp
Mighty Car Mods fan?
NegativeNumbers427 He's still right though
Way ahead of you.
kostman23 Because Race car.
😂
This is probably one of my favorite videos that has ever been uploaded to youtube. You guys did a PHENOMENAL job, and it's pretty Damn cool to watch a grown man giggle like a school girl. CorteXracing, good job on the suspension build. It's absolutely amazing.
Awesomeness Mr. Musto and crew.
That's why the first mod I did was a full eibach suspension, it makes the car a seriously competent track car.
Loving the E36 chasing him, lots of cool cars out there!
I wonder if that E36 ever passed him... it was gaining; awesome video mike! would have been nice to see lap times before & after the upgrade
The E36 was lapping him...
Aaron Elliott I agree I track my e36 and my buddy also has the same year GT but its all stock; and he can't keep up at all; but his is stock; except for a catback ; we weight both of our cars; mine was 2987 his was 3640 lol
I owned two E36 before my 06 GT. No doubt the E36 is a much better track car....better car in general right out of the box. But the GT is much more fun and I'm addicted to the exhaust note....it's like crack for gear heads. Both great cars but very different. GT needs lots of suspension mods to handle properly.
Awesome camera work, especially during the 'build' phase.
Yeah, I know I'm late to the party on this one, but noticed a few interesting things watching this video:
1) Torque-arm setup is the best performing setup on a sold-axle car. Ford when a step in the right direction with the 3-link, but a proper torque-arm is still dramatically better. The improved rear suspension geometry main upgrade in this example.
2) Watt's link is great when you are wringing out every last bit of tuning, a properly designed Panhard bar still works great though.
3) Proper spring rates and shock can be dramatic as well, but improved suspension geometry can do more to balance the car's ride control and ride quality.
4) As the driving instructor pointed out, proper braking is the first step to safely entering turns.
5) Next step: tires. While comparing before and after for just suspension mods is cool, track oriented tires can be the easiest and most dramatic change you can make to shave off track time.
Refreshing to see a show mod a heavy street car with decent suspension first. I thoroughly enjoyed this episode. I only wish it was longer.
Such a fun track to be on.
Very informative, great job. Currently own a 14 GT/CS with total FMS suspension upgrades.
How do you like the car? I'm actually going to look at a 2014 GT/CS on Friday, but I don't know if I can bring myself to get rid of my 2002 WRX lol.
I love it, very predictable and hooks up nicely.
Awesome segment. Goes to show it's not power being the only thing that matters. It means more that you can actually use the power you have. Getting used to the car and how it handles and working to overcome its quirks and/or modifying the car to compensate for them. It's very rewarding.
Great info! While my car is the puny V6, it comes similarly set up to the GT suspension wise since it has the performance pack, but there is only so much sticky Pirelli P Zeros can do. I was cracking up as Mike described the nose-heavy, brake divey, twitchy feel of the car. With 100 lbs more motor over the front, I can only imagine the GT is a little worse in those areas, but I still would love to have the extra 100+ hp.
I am glad to see I was on the right track for modding my car. Power mods are and will be minimal. I'd rather put the money in the suspension and brakes. While the watts link is nice, I can do adjustable shocks, springs, camber plate, and panhard bar for about the same cost. Perfectly adequate for a street car that may see a couple of track days.
Good program guys!
This season is pretty awesome so far... the production value has come leaps and bounds from where it was prior... keep up the great work... simply the most bad-ass place to hang out on TH-cam... thanks Mike and et. al.
That's why my car went to Shelby American. It not only get the GT350 package, I also went a couple steps further. By going with the wide-body kit. Which allows 10 inch wide wheels in the front and 13 in the back. A chassis stiffening with subframe connectors and a Watts link set up in the back. A completely adjustable front and rear suspension and lastly, 700 hp at the crank. Anymore horsepower and I would have to pull the motor and build up the bottom end. It will be track driven after the four point roll cage and fire suppression has been installed. Shelby American will not install it, because of insurance issues. Which sucks! I'm seriously considering joining the Spring Mountain Motorsport Resort. It's a beautiful track and resort just 45 minutes north of Las Vegas.
Wheels and tires should ALWAYS be your first mod. The factory 255mm, Pirelli garbage gotta go.
whole car is garbage :D
extrememito If you can't have fun in a RWD, 420hp, 6 speed standard sports car.... well then you're probably not a car guy.
olbear303 If you can't have fun in any car, you're not a car guy period.
Porsche Curves Try having fun in my civic ... impossible.
Connor Becker Extremely possible. A lawn mower that goes 10mph is fun. Pretty sure any car is fun as well.
Put some lightweight 15 inch wheels and racing slicks at the track and you will see a huge difference
***** Switch to drum brakes.. lol
1 step forward, 2 steps back
Xénos Polemistí̱s who needs brakes when you have allllll that grip. cornering G's bro!
They need to put a couple washing machine powered vacuums in the trunk like the Chaparral 2J
Putting on slicks will and lighter wheels will only increase the threshold of when the handling issues will manifest itself. The car will have faster lap times, but will have the same handling issues. It's better to fix the problem first instead of masking it.
but masking the issues is the Ford way. You don't want to mess with tradition!
That was a very well done video. Loved the creative "hands-on" camera angles. Filip is a heck of an engineer and his designs continue to impress. I had the opportunity to talk with him at length during the Pirelli World Challenge races in Toronto this past summer. He's a gentleman with a brilliant mind. I hope all is well Fil. Keep up the good work!
Hehe, the camera work during the build phase with all the people running about doing their jobs to that music gave a sense of little elfs running around in santa's toy factory. :D
This guy. I like this guy. Specifically, the guy at the shop turning the car into a track car. GG.
the Boss was the Boss for a reason!
Just put a Cortex watts link and torque arm on my ‘12 Mustang GT, rear of the car feels so planted
One of my favorite episodes so far. Love seeing before and after mods impressions.
I think tires, brakes and suspension do it for having fun on a track or a winding road. No need of going super tire shredding power. Great video!
Almost felt philosophical. I got a 2013 v6 and I absolutely freaking love it. Even when it's completely stock, it's so much fun, I gotta get rid of that body roll though. Oddly enough, if you get a body roll on a BMW or a Nissan Maxima, even though they make similar horse power, nobody really cares because we think Mustang is a track car, when it's really not, at least not out of the box. But this video shows what it can do, when modified properly.
Always nice to see a build, hope there is more videos
to the Mustang
Filip is just one of those guys you just instantly want to be friends with. Seems like a laid back fun kind of guy.
Hey Musto, you just saved me a hell of a lot of time doing research. I have a 2013 GT and plan to modify it. Now I know what I'm going to do to it. Your best video so far.
You won't be disappointed!
Drive BigMuscle
BTW, I don't know if you remember but I asked you a few months ago if you could do a video on your 2013 5.0
So thanks!
I can tell that you're impressed by the improved handling dynamics of the Mustang! Cortex seems to be situated between Grigg's Racing and Maximum Motorsports, or at least my impression. I am a fan of the current mustang, but contact patch and compound also seem to be major limitations to consistent lap times! I really enjoyed this addition to your content, and I think you have greatly improved your on air presence! Have fun with the new toy, and keep us abreast of your improvement!
Your new project peeked my interests, so I looked into wheels, and, in this niche market, aren't inexpensive. A relatively affordable option is (Jongbloed Racing's) JRS 700s -18 x 10.5 w/.45mm back spacing(check with the kid from Cortex on the tire brand he recommends) this will allow you to install 305's all the way around. With the correct compound, even take offs, your going to really haul the mail!
PS Apparently their are two suppliers who essentially say the same thing and, I didn't see Cortex's web page till after posted! I'm still excited to see your projects progress!
Thank you so much for that video. I am looking for information on Mustang track tuning and this is the first video on mods that is not about drag racing or pimp my ride style mods.
You guys put on any power adders? CAI and a tune at minimum would have woken that stang up a little bit more.
This should be a TV show!!!!!!
Now that it's been sorted out, I hope you'll consider coming down south to run the Ultimate Street Car event at Auto Club Speedway in June. I need more late model Mustangs to run against!
In short, track to identify weaknesses, and tune to fix them. For muscle cars, you may have to look at the suspension. For something like a Miata, you can add power. Simple mods like brake pads are good in general.
Though it wasn't said, but tires are the most important thing and you should buy the most you can afford.
I wasn't really a fan of mustangs until i drove my step dads 2014 mustang gt. Mustangs were always big and heavy and had so much body roll. But this 2014 with the track pack and recaros is an awesome ride. It handles like a sports car, its still feels heavy but it's controllable. The 6 speed manual w/ the 3.73 ratio is really close in gears. I had to get use to shifting, but after that it was smooth sailing. Suspension is tight but def wouldn't mind driving it as a daily car. Brembos were awesome. If your in the market for one, i would def get one, there practically giving them away now!
Watts linkage, just like the Aussie Falcon used from 1981 to 1998, the same setup that all V8 Supercars including GM used with a Ford 9" up till about 2011 when they went to IRS. My 97 Falcon has that with twin wish bones at the front, great handing car for its size and age.
Great episode. The expert setup advice from the instructor is invaluable.
My coyote 5.0 was exactly like this off the lot; bouncy, wheel hop, tons of roll in the turns. I was like wtf? With all that power, it was a little dangerous for anyone who knows how a car should handle. I put on an Eibach pro suspension kit, springs, struts, shocks, roll bar, which over all lowered the car about an inch and a half. Replaced the panhard bar and lower control arms. Threw on a set of staggered Foose 20's" with Zredestein tread and it definitely got things going in the right direction. Caution: If you lower this car, get a camber kit as well or you will eat up tires quickly. This years' 5.0 definitely needs suspension upgrades.
First mods I did on my 2013 stang include koni yellow shocks and struts, eibach pro kits, steeda HD mounts and toyo tires. Believe me, the car isn't a mustang anymore. It turns fast, responsive, more stable and eliminated nose dive. Stock suspension fails a lot.
Great video, guys. I hope to see more with this format.
Excellent suspension set up. I am looking forward to a similar set up for my 5.0 " black stallion"
Awesome video. Learned a lot just from this 11 minutes since I wanna build my 5.0 for the twisties.
"Thumbs-up" USA finaly fould that cars are not just there for DRAG
but there's even more fun in CORNERING xD
PS
I'm sold on your torque arm! I'll be emailing you some questions. I think I'll be sticking with my konis and ffr stuff for now. But that torqe arm and watts are sick!
You will not be sorry.
Many people are asking about price. Can’t comment on price but here’s what they changed based on the video:
1. Coilovers with camber caster plates
2. Tie rods/end links
3. (This is a guess) ball joints
4. Rear lower control arms with relocation brackets
5. Watts link
6. Sway bar relocation brackets
7. Sway bar
It looks like they also did the rear brakes.
All of this is what I noticed. Chime in if you see more.
I would like to hear how that setup works on the road in those settings.... Great vid guys!!!
Most probably not so nice. Reason why ford didn't do it in the first place.
There is still a lot left in it, considering this is on the stock wheel and tire combo.
There are a lot of moments when you´re driving one handed and don´t shift. Keep both hands on the wheel as long as possible. Get your body possition right.
Good seat and harnesses are also vital to keep your body in the same place, so you don´t need to hold the steering wheel so tight.
Lighter wheels do a lot and you don´t need slicks, there are many options in track tires. Slicks bite on the limit.
Great video! Going to check out Cortex Racing supplies now. Hoping the rear Watts system allows for lowering of the wheels...
+opinionatedjam The Watts linkage is basically just a "double panhard bar", the rest is the same.
+ziiofswe Awesome! Thank you!
"OH SON!" Best Mike Musto reaction ever... That's how you know he was happy with the car!
One of your best episodes yet.
We posted this on our Facebook page and so far we have 30,000+ views! Great video guys!
This great Input on what to do with a "given" type of car, what you should have mentioned is the cost of those modifications so that your listeners can judge if they can afford them or not, I shouldn't be mentioning this.
Sorry if this was asked before, but what kind of costs were you looking at for so many changes? Assuming someone wasn't on an accelerated build schedule of 1 night... new springs and shocks, watts linkage, roll center modifications... All of these seem like a decent amount of labor going in, unless the roll center mods came from aftermarket control arms.
Drop ball joints are all that is involved in changing the front roll center. The watts link has 4 position rear height adjustment. It's very simple.
this video is the reason i got a mustang last year
I have a Mustang GT but really a car this heavy I don't consider to be a track weapon. I might lightly mod the car like in the vid and it's fun on the track but if I want a track car I would go with something lighter. Not a Z28 as some people, laughably, suggest. I bought a 2nd car for a more serious track car a Skyline GTS-T. Something with a simple drivetrain, great handling, light, aftermarket support, etc. RWD Skyline (GTS-T/GTT), 350/370z, Miata, S2000, E30, E36, RX8/7, etc. 350/370z is the top end in terms of weight I would consider. Most of those are around 3000lbs, or less. Anything above 3300lbs is getting heavy for a track car. 3600lbs or 4000lbs is ridiculous, no point in a serious build.
You've perhaps heard the extension of the saying "You can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear"? (it goes "but you can make a very fast pig"). That's hotrodding distilled to its essence, and it works quite well when you can't or don't care to justify maintaining a car you can't use anywhere but on the track (and which would require a trailer and yet another vehicle to support its single use).
That said, I'd think something more along the lines of a Locost or some sort of FrankenSprite would make for a really entertaining track toy that would make most of those imported cars on your list seem a bit out of their element by comparison. Think sub-1800 lbs instead.
Norm
I have fulfilled a dream of mine last year and bought a 350Z Nismo. It was surprisingly cheap (at least over here in Germany) to buy and maintain, offers exciting and precise handling, plenty of grip... the whole deal.
Plus, spare parts and quality aftermarket parts are easily available. I daresay you can´t get more bang for you buck when looking for a lightweight, RWD everyday usable car.
I have never been in an RX-7 though, so that could be even better. But to my knowledge, it is hard to come by any that still work properly and the good ones aren´t exactly cheap.
Buy a sportbike then if all you care about is weight. You can pop sticky tires on a Miata and never have to let off the throttle on the track. That may be fine for you but I like going faster than 115 mph.
***** The video and our posts were about cars. You chiming in like that is like a group of people debating which kind of apple they like and you walk by them and tell them they should eat an orange.
It´s OK that you like oranges better, but it´s just not at all relevant to the discussion.
Jeremy J. A Mustang and S2000 are not the same fruit on a track. The video, for relevance, is about making a heavy Mustang more suitable for a track, NOT what type of car is better for the track off the factory floor.
Nice suspension set up. Watts link looks like it kept the rear end tight. Did you notice a big difference switching from the stock Brembos to the Willwoods? I was surprised to see you change the brakes out.
Great Video. Mustangs can handle with the right mods. Both Cortex and Kenny Brown make some great parts to make them real corner carvers.
my sn95 had bad handling too everytime id hit the track, the nosedive (as pointed out) was ridiculous and gets me everytime. Luckily, I thought of purchasing koni shocks/springs, (which I did later on) and that changed everything best $800 spent
Sick one handed track driving bruh. Paul Walker is looking down on you with great admiration.
Videos like this are why I subscribed to DRIVE. Thanks.
Beautifully edited piece here. Props to the editor. Well done.
Love the before/after episodes! It looks like you just put $10k of parts and service into that car though. After that significant upgrade you need to come to grip with the fact you may have started off with the wrong type of DD/track car.
A watts link bar, new struts/springs, rear brake upgrade, and camber adjustments would be less than 3k. Having a shop do it for you might be a different story.
Musto! How much was the upgrade?
Rex Overbey Just commenting on parts. The Watt's Link is in the $1000 range depending on chosen brand. The rear brakes I bought run about $500, but can be a lot more if you go extreme. Camber plates on their own are $300-500, but can be included with certain coilovers. A simple spring and shock upgrade will be about $1100, but the JRi coilover setup shown in the video is around $4700 total for all 4 corners. That's a lot, but it will transform the car.
Based on the pricing on Cortex's website, appears to be around $6k including the willwood brakes.
DirtyD Mikes car only had Wilwood pads and rotors, not a full brake kit. My preference on a budget would be OEM Brembo calipers with track pads and the Ford Racing brake duct kit.
Track times before & after mods?
Nice video wish it was longer. Would like to see the difference in this car vs the Leguna Seca edition.
Awesome video and build. Hope this turns into a series. What's next, wheels?
fantastic presentation...!
the only question i have is.:
assuming the car is a daily driver, do any of the shown adjustments and/or parts change present any relatively significant compromise for everyday use ?
Cool! I love my 86 Mustang. A few cheap suspension mods can really turn it around.
Those speed holes on the hood look really cool.
You should do a battery relocation. That is a cheap and easy way to get some weight in the back.
1:08 "As you know my last name is not SENNA" its great to hear we dont forget legendary driver as he was...
Yes!!! Great episode!
@Scott Hill You don't have to build up the lower end at 700. Maybe upgrade rid at 800
Full coilovers and tire choice should be really all a mustang needs. The coyote should handle itself just fine. Compliment the drivetrain.
I don't like the idea how he says to modify the car in stages. Most people in the performance world start with bolt-on's when they should start with a good programmable ECU (not a cheap chip) this way you can program every upgrade there after and have it work.
walperstyle Unless you're [blindly] following somebody else's formula, modifying in stages is exactly what you need to be doing. Find what needs the most fixing, do the one or maybe two things to fix that, and drive it some so you can see what you need to work on next. Lather, rinse, repeat.
I wouldn't bother looking past the FRPP tune at least in the beginning. Keep in mind that what you DON'T want on a road course (or even more so at an autocross) is the too-eager throttle opening that impresses all the street wanna-be's. Later on, maybe there's enough value in a custom tune, as long as it doesn't tip the throttle in too quickly at small throttle plate openings either.
Norm
Tires for sure, but not right off the bat if you're a newbie to track days. Just drive the car equipped the way you're accustomed to driving it, with DOT4 brake fluid and maybe entry-level track pads at most. 255's really aren't enough once you've gained a little seat time, but they're plenty good for a newbie (and they might be a good rain tire size even after more experience is gained).
I'd get tires and wider wheels, deal with camber correction, maybe swap springs and/or sta-bars, and drive it a while on Konis rather than jump straight away to coilovers as part of a first step.
Norm
Norm Peterson i hate this assumption that anyone modding a mustang is a newb, if your getting a mustang for a track toy it should NOT b your first car! thats retarded! and anyone who claims to be a "car guy" would know exactly why mustangs suck on track, they neeeed brakes tyres and chassis rigidity to even come close to enjoyable on track, I love my mustang but not without the chassis reinforcement bars and big brake kit i have on it. spending 10k rite off the bat on a mustang is soooo easy without even touching the engine, a 01' cobra IRS swap, wilwood brake kit, OS giken super lock 8.8 diff, coil overs, swaybars, reinforcing bars, 305's all around, is just a start. fuck the watts link IRS son!
Frankly, when it comes to a known chassis like a Mustang. I have no problem copying the performance of others. Stick with what works, but I will always stand behind starting with a good ECU to start with. Then all other mods afterward will fall into place easier. Turbo, Supercharger, fuel injectors, cams etc.
Finally keeping up with the Miata! Lol. But yeah, Mustangs can handle well. We actually got a bunch of them in our local Autocross. I love seeing them run. Still not as competitive as the Miatas, S2000s, and BRZs. But that's to be expected from the tight courses we get around here.
Good stuff. How much would those mods cost to average joe? Definitely will look into the panard bar replacement system. Does it use a torsion/spring or what
I'm all for performance and everything. I like going to the track myself, but how does it feel on the road now that they did that? Beacause 95% of the time not on the track. I have a friend that did all of this to his 2011 mustang gt and ended up selling it because it felt like shit on the street. I say that if your gonna do this, you should go all out on a car that is not your daily driver
It's totally composed on the street. Is it stiffer? Of course, but perfectly drivable in all situations.
Drive BigMuscle
What are the sping rates?
I'm a a BMW fan. But I saw a comparo where the e92 m3 and the Mustang fgt went toe to toe on a racetrack. So I'd think twice about calling a mustang a slouch on the racetrack. I've seen them on the track personally and they are not as bad a as people think they are not the 2013 up at least. I can't wait to see what the new model does with the independent rear.
Great video, and it's a very scientific approach far removed from the pissing contests of inflated HP/torque figures people like to engage in. Brake, tire and suspension mods, when properly done, can be felt much more often than peak power. Let's see more of these, /DRIVE.
Mike has Sennheisers! I think those are the same pairs I have (using right now). 280 HD pro? It's so surreal seeing the stuff you (you as anyone in general) have on camera.
I'm not sure why people say the Mustangs are not good track cars. You all may want to look at the tracks across north America and it is seems to me there are an awful lot of Mustangs competing and winning. Right out of the box these cars are very capable. Add a little bit of money and they are lethal weapon on the track.
Looks like fun
This was the most enjoyable episode starring Musto that I've seen. The music seemed different throughout and created a nice atmosphere. Shazam, guys. Shazam.
btw, I'm never buying a Mustang. lol
The Z28's 75GRAND! Let's see how the 2015 GT does with the new suspension. I'd probably lightly modify it (polyurethane suspension bushings, Billsteins, and some of the things they discussed in the vid.) for use on the street. I have no interest in a pure track car and certainly no 75GRAND for a Z28. I just want a better handling, daily driver, Mustang GT.
"Yeah Son" lmao
still my favorite Big Muscle video
That is EXACTLY like the mustang I had. I didn't think there would be too many cars like that out there. Buy it used from carmax by any chance around last December?
Enjoyed this one .. Let's do a Camaro next. Lolz... I kid I kid. Nice show.
Great video - would have been interesting to know how much the modding cost.
Getting real fucking tired of these Z28 comments... I'll go with a 5.0 and get the goodies that I WANT TO ADD not what Chevy wants to give me..
That chevy wants you to give like $70,000 when you can get a Mustang Gt for $28,000. The Chevy too is over 4,000 lbs. Might as well mod a SUV. Nothing is sporting about a car that heavy at all.
***** a lot goes into why the z28 is fast.. 305 tires in the front is retarded yeah its grip but its a lot more drag than a regular 275 or smaller tire in the front
So how many times has a Z28 cleaned your clock?
Considering they haven't started hitting the streets yet, I'm guessing 0.Mark Miller
Love it!! Great ep! Keep it coming.
How much was the total setup? Any mods to the engine? I thought they upgraded the exhaust also. Nice vid!