That is a great question! Two tricks: remember how I said you want the wood to be 3x thicker than the spoon you want to carve? That’s because we cut the middle third, where the pith, or center of the tree is located, out and discard it. If we’re carving at least 1/2 inch, in every direction, AWAY from the pith, the chances of cracking are far smaller. Because those circles around the pith are so small, we know that’s where there’s the most tension in the wood. As that shrinks and dries, it’s the most likely part of the tree to crack. Have you ever noticed how as firewood dries, all the cracks point toward the pith? The other trick to keep from cracking is to carve to thin enough dimensions that if the wood does want to move a little as it dries, it’s flexible enough to do so without cracking. Extra wood makes for extra tension. A good rule of thumb is for the bowl of the spoon to be just fatter than 1/8th of an inch when you’re done carving.
Another tip to everyone if you want the spoons not to crack. Hold a spoon in boiling water for 25 minutes, and it will definitely not crack. If you want to make the wood softer, then hold the blanks in water, then it will be easier to cut them with a spoon.
Something I'd add from a ZedOutdoors Kuksa video: be careful when you're doing your axe work around the bowl. A little knick on the back of the bowl might actually have done more damage and result in a split later. That's for thicker wood that moves more, though. Also, certain species tend to crack more readily, often very wet ones, though it seems like ash, which is pretty dry, crack a lot Absolutely both things Anne said, especially carving your spoons nice and thin. You might need to go thicker if you're carving something like silver maple, just to keep the strength.
Keep them oiled. The traditional oil for preserving wood is linseed oil in western carpentry (the "raw", type not the "boiled") In Eastern tradition, they use oil from the tung nut. Both are very good. Tung oil smells worderful, but it is a very poignant smell that will dominate whatever taste or smell of the food you are eating with your spoon. Linseed oil has a more neutral smell, but it is not to everyone's liking, it doesn't smell like food. Both of these can be gotten food-grade. Paraphine oil can also be used. It is totally odorless and it works well too, but you should know that it is a petroleum product. I don't know if it is considered food-grade, but it is a non-toxic substance related to vaseline. Vegetable cooking oils can be used too if you are in a pinch, but they don't penetrate as deep into the wood. Some vegetable oils, the "healthy ones" will get rancid with time. The same properties that make them healthy, is what makes them deteriorate (easier to break down) Never wash wooden utensils in a dishwasher. Dishwasher detergent is a very strong alkaline that is made for dissolving fat and oil. This will leave the spoon unprotected, it will soak up water, and then dry out and crack. Now, wood will naturally soak up ambient humidity, and even "cured" wood from the lumberyard will have a certain percent of water in it. Wood does not like to be 100% dry. The cell structure can't hold together if the wood is that dry. What makes wood crack is if it is too dry, OR if the movement of water is too quick. Freshly cut wood should cure slowly outside for a while before being taken inside. "One year per inch" is a rule of thumb but this will wary locally. Oiling wood will replace the water in the cells with oil. Normally the oil will only penetrate a little under the surface, but you can force the oil to penetrate deeper by applying heat. If you submerge your spoon in linseed oil, in a baking pan, you can heat it in the oven. Go slowly on fairly low heat. You want to slowly simmer out the water from the wood. This takes some time. You don't want it as hot as a deep-fryer, just over the boiling temperature of water. (Whatever that is in Fahrenheit... It's 100 C. Easy!)
The positivity you radiate is extremely encouraging, love it. I remember you posting your hardships here as well, and boy, you never lose that smile. What a champion!
From somebody who has been carving spoons decades before the Sloyd trend. I sand most of my spoons ending with burnishing the spoons with a cotton cloth. Roased Walnut oil which is a polymerizing or hardening oil will give a nice finish and protection. Flax oil will give your spoon more of a yellowing colour.
I never usually comment on videos or use the thumbs up button, but here I am…. This video is really useful as a starter, but above all great at inspiring me to do more carving! Thank you
I‘m carving spoons for three years now, using green wood as well as dry wood. (Mostly juniper and olive wood) I always sand my spoons up to 800 grit and get a silky smooth surface after finishing with walnut oil and wax based on walnut oil, bees and carnauba wax. Happy carving
I also sand with fine paper. Very fine sanding, contrary to rough sanding, produces a lot of fine wood powder that fills up the pores and makes is less susceptible to penetration by water, oil,...
Opening up the wood grain by sanding can also help it uptake more oil. Anyway in the video they also say sanding is fine so the title is complete hogwash.
Anne, your teaching talent is evident in this instructional video and will help viewers make spoons and enjoy the process while having fun. Blessings to you.
I had a carved spoon buisiness for about 15 years. I used hard sugar maple from a lumber yard for cabinet makers. I had patterns that I could duplicate with consistancy. I gave it up because of time, old age and price of materials. It was fun for many years and I had lots of tourists from local farmer market in summer
This was way more informative and useful than the popular expensive spoon carving book that pops up that i finally shelled out and bought, plus a bunch of long winded videos. Packed with information and i appreciate how you don't lay shame on sanding, just explain simply the benefits of doing otherwise. Love a post with tons of knowledge and no posturing ego, just good humor and useful info. And it was very helpful to hear that it used to take you hours but doesn't any more.. definitely a ray of light on making money with what is now a new passion.
Something rarely spoken of: Fine Motor Control,which is the finesse of careful and precise movement DISAPPEARS after about 6 pounds of muscle effort: it then becomes Gross Motor Control, like when you pick up a heavy back pack, or a bale of hay. Dull cutting tools et al can put one into Gross Motor Control and THAT is when accidents happen. Sharp tools permit "finesse" and thus way more control and therefore are safer.
I tried making a large spoon from the black walnut tree in my yard I cut down. I cracked the spoon end right in the middle so just cut it into a large salad mixing fork. I never set out to make a fork but have one now so it's kinda cool.
A little over 15 years ago my grandad brought me into his shop and we carved a whole dining set for camping wooden bowls cups and plates of black cherry and spreading knife and spoon of black chestnut I still use them every summer and fall around camp
Quite enjoyed seeing how much you love what you do . Also found your " counter to how I carve " enjoyable, helps me to be mindful of the many paths to art . I carve dried and hardened woods , I do cut down my own trees time to time . I'll tell you , being a woodcarver first , and arborist second . Well , I have to charge a flat rate to my neighbors when I drop trees or prune for them . As with every cut, I'm also looking at what I can do with the wood if cut how . Yes , I spoon , bowl and cup carve hardwood , not ever green . And I will hand sand with upto between 6 to 9 different grits of paper. End results the piece gets so smooth it looks like they have been oiled already . Carving the dry wood, I belive . Makes sanding easier . I'll give you a fun idea to try out . Next nice dry hardwood carving , sand super smooth . Add oil , take a blowtorch , scorch the whole piece . Then sand, and sand again till smooth . What results , is a grain exposure your going to love . The usual method of traditional wood preserving via Japanese woodworking " or old farmers with fence posts " is a deep burn then an oil. But for a carving finish , sand , then oil , then burn . Then sand again , a lot . Try a walnut oil beeswax finish .. go from there . I think you will enjoy the results . I'm never one to rush my work . I take the time to take the time . It's the process of doing and being that's my joy , not so much as the having . Keep carving ! You have done well ! And I do admire how well you come across , I am not so versed on social media editing or whatnot , near zero followers , hehe , that's fine by me . But I certainly admire what others can do as well . It's always an extra inspiration to see the joy and love others have , for a craft and lifestyle which I love and gives me joy .
I’ve been turning bowls and vases for about 10 years and I’ve tried my hand at spoon carving, with less than stellar results😊. This video is fantastic! I’m going to try my luck with spoons again, now that I’m a lot more educated! Thanks Anne, subscribed!
Ive been experimenting with a technique ive addapted from watching people make canoe paddles. I carve as close to a finished shape as possible and then starting with a medium/fine grit I give it a sanding, and in between grits I wipe it down with a lightly dampened cloth which takes the dust out of the pores and raises the fibers up for the next grit, move down to fine almost polishing grit and keep wiping in between. Repeat the last grit at least twice and buff/ burnish with a fine dry cloth after the finish goes on. I'll also add that when I but my oil/wax on, I rub it in kind of agressivly at first and "uphill" in the bowl to really get it in there. So far I've got spoons that water will run off of like a duck.
On rehydrating wood...I use steam to shape bowstaves...and have found that it's actually VERY effective in drying the wood quickly. Boiling it is even quicker. The heat drives the moisture OUT of the wood as it reaches temperature, so even though the outside of the wood is 'wet'...as you said, the heat dries that quickly, and you've evacuated much of the moisture that was inside through forced evaporation.
A lot of really good tips here Anne. I wish I would have known some of these tips when I started, others it always helps to be reminded of, and what you were saying about having to think 3 dimensionally and paying attention to reduction woodworking is so true. It takes a completely different mindset. I remember reading of one of the old master sculptors, in regards to getting to his desired piece out of the medium, that he would picture the final piece, and carve away anything that wasn’t it. Seemed like a bit if a smart A** answer to me at the time, but that was breaking it down to the most basic. Everyone wants an easy answer, or a tip of how to get there more quickly, when the old adage of practice, practice, practice, is the truest advice you can get. But more than that, effective practice, is the quickest way to becoming a master. (And to bring this full circle, your tips here are designed to, and will help someone, practice more effectively!)
Another thing about 3D thinking that didn’t make the cut of the video that has really positively affected my carving and 10x’d my efficiency is that we don’t actually *need* to think in 3D, we’re better off thinking in 2d. We only carve / change one dimension at a time. We carve first a cookie cutter view of the front profile of the spoon, with perfectly square sides, and once we’re happy with that first shape, we turn it on it’s side and THEN carve the side profile. Trying to work both simultaneously involves a lot of unnecessary tail chasing and reductionist thinking that frankly just aren’t necessary. So first we make it crisp and square, and then we start rounding and blending all those lines together, not Willy Molly though, by intentionally dividing each space into quarters, then eighths, then 16ths. And by that time? You’ve got a finished spoon.
@@AnneofAllTrades that’s how I mow my grass 😂😂💡💡wait that’s how I do everything that gets completed. I think I’m on to something thanks Anne I’m suddenly inspired (until something catches my attention 😂)about how I do big projects that are almost always painful to finish if it gets finished 😂😂. Keep up the great work.
sanding is a choice some of us make because we like fine shapes. Some of us use spoon gauges because they are not limited so much by shape as are hook knives.
Been spoon carving the whole of about 1 month I have done about 10 spoons now or something. And yeah defo got more than 10 slices. Great tips though and I will defo be checking out your safety tips article about the different grips.
Great information! Ive carved a few spoons, but SLOWLY! So i really appreciate your tips here for doing it properly and more effectively. I use a lot of Ash wood (which is unfortunately dying from die-back in UK), wish i had access to beautiful Walnut wood. Thanks again for this great video 😊🌳💚
@mm9773 Yes it's around but I didn't find any in my area yet, and no friends have any in gardens, but im always on the lookout. I'll get some eventually, fingers crossed 🤞
I like to whittle spoons while sitting around the campfire. A good jackknife handles the bulk of it. A hot coal sitting on the head of the spoon will slowly burn in the cup, and then the right stone works to sand away the charred bits. It's good fun and when you're done, you've got something you can use to eat your beans.
I’ve been wood carving for several years and have always sanded the things I have made, [treated with oil and beeswax] so when carving spoons I have done the same, [and treated them with non-toxic wood oil and then burnished them] After watching this I carved my 1st spoon all the way to the final shape with just the flat blade and hook knife and no sanding. It was extremely satisfying, the finished item is profoundly different in its shape, the flat surfaces and sharp edges and angles completely change the way I look at a feel about the item
Love the hoodie, who makes em?! I have to keep the wind off my neck but can't use a scarf as they can get loose and caught up in machines. I also losing them!
You can wet sand the spoon. Simply dip the spoon in water and let it soak in and dry. That raises the grain. Then resand and fuzz is gone. Some furniture makers do that before they finish. I then polish it to 12000 micro mesh.
I’m imagining a walk-in freezer in/behind your barn filled with ziplock bags of wet wood spoon blanks now. Thanks for the great content. Can’t wait for your collab with Rex Krueger and Wood by Wright.
Just curious as a woodworker (I make folk instruments primarily), have you tried tung oil on your spoons? If so why did you settle on walnut oil? Thanks in advance!
Interesting comment about the alpaca carving. I’ve said for years you think you know what something looks like until you try to carve one 😂. Even a human face…. I almost never carve green wood, it’s just how it is. The hardest to carve was barrel staves from 50 year old bourbon barrels. White Oak is a great wood for spoons but omg rock hard, made amazing spoons and spatulas.
A little ago I got into greenwood carving and I'm loving it! But I'm struggling to do it in the cold, as I only do it outside (cos I can't keep the wood shavings from going everywhere while I carve). How do you carve on your sofa without it ending up completely covered by wood shavings??
I’ve started using a towel. I drape it over my lap and it catches ~most~ of my shavings. If I’m starting with a larger piece of wood and need to rough cut the outline of my piece, I’ll take it outside to get the larger pieces off.
Guys need to make more room in the trades for ladies. I've worked with some very talented women in my years of construction. Ladies, get out there and do this kind of thing if it interests you. Don't let the bad guys get in your way. Cheers.
I was surprised to hear that sanding wasn’t recommended as I’ve been sanding my finished spoons with superfine sandpaper and they’ve always been great!! But recently I’ve learned how to burnish the surface with a smooth rock and that really adds an amazing lustre to the finish. Do you ever burnish your finished spoons? What are your thoughts on that process?
Do you use a thumb guard? My non knife hand is taking a beating, just sore, working on my first spoon carving the dry block of wood that came with my knife kit.
I do not, I’ve found that carving gloves and guards are actually more dangerous due to the loss of dexterity and, having “safeguards” like those in place, I think it’s easier to develop more dangerous habits than simply working to ingrain safe habits from the outset. The book and accompanying video called Greenwood Spoon Carving by Emmet Van Driesche published by mortise and tenon magazine is a truly phenomenal resource I’d highly recommend.
Love your video, very clear! My question is: once you put your moist wood in the freezer to prevent it from drying too quickly, is it necessary for the freezer to be switched on or not? I want to slowly dry a large piece of oak in France, where temperatures go + 10 or 20 degrees Celsius every day! Thanks in advance for answering :)
I found it kind of funny that Michael asked a question, I thought of what I would answer in my head -and then Anne gave more or less exactly that answer! 😄 Through the whole video! Great resource for beginners 👍
I try to use it immediately after being cut if not sooner- with the exception of cherry, which, for whatever reason, seems to do better if cut into long lengths and then aged in the log for a couple months prior to using, but when doing that, you’ve gotta be exxxxxxtra careful not to run into accidental checks or cracks in the material
You mentioned using log diameter 3 times the width of the spoon so you can avoid pith. How exactly is the potential spoon oriented inside the log? Which parts do I remove and avoid. I'm guessing split it in half\quarters depending on the log size and then use the part closer to bark- do I use only 1\3, half or 2\3 of the log sector? PS Pith is also confusing. In apple trees it is not pithy at all, it is the harderst part, but also cracks the most.
I think the term pith is getting in your way a bit- pithy usually means soft or stringy, but the pith is the center ring of the tree (it’s rarely actually in the exact center, however). We want to split the log in half with equal heft on either side of the pith, then, depending on the log size, quarter, etc but then make sure to cut away the pith and at least 1/2” of the wood surrounding the pith in every direction before we carve, because that is where the most tension in the log lives, which is also why you’re struggling with cracking/warping. If you remove the pith and surrounding wood, everything else is useable. Knots, burls or branch inclusions will make the interior grain do funny things, so I tend to try to find the clearest, cleanest sections and use those first.
Ann another question how do you treat spoons etc once you finish carving is dry them out without risking splitting or warping and do you need to put a finish of any sort
That is a great question! Two tricks to prevent splitting/warping while drying: remember how I said you want the wood to be 3x thicker than the spoon you want to carve? That’s because we cut the middle third, where the pith, or center of the tree is located, out and discard it. If we’re carving at least 1/2 inch, in every direction, AWAY from the pith, the chances of cracking are far smaller. Because those circles around the pith are so small, we know that’s where there’s the most tension in the wood. As that shrinks and dries, it’s the most likely part of the tree to crack. Have you ever noticed how as firewood dries, all the cracks point toward the pith? The other trick to keep from cracking is to carve to thin enough dimensions that if the wood does want to move a little as it dries, it’s flexible enough to do so without cracking. Extra wood makes for extra tension. A good rule of thumb is for the bowl of the spoon to be just fatter than 1/8th of an inch when you’re done carving. If you carve it to thin enough dimensions, it will dry out in open air in 2-3 days. I use walnut oil and sometimes a coat of burnished beeswax over top to add another layer of protection.
I believe we covered that later in the video, but if carved to the proper thickness from the right section of wood from the tree, cracking and warping shouldn’t be an issue
That was a… hilarious accident that wasn’t considered in the design process. It wasn’t until I was watching the video back in the editing process that I realized what it looked like 😂😂😂
Great video! How do you keep spoons from cracking when the wood dries out?
That is a great question! Two tricks: remember how I said you want the wood to be 3x thicker than the spoon you want to carve? That’s because we cut the middle third, where the pith, or center of the tree is located, out and discard it. If we’re carving at least 1/2 inch, in every direction, AWAY from the pith, the chances of cracking are far smaller. Because those circles around the pith are so small, we know that’s where there’s the most tension in the wood. As that shrinks and dries, it’s the most likely part of the tree to crack.
Have you ever noticed how as firewood dries, all the cracks point toward the pith?
The other trick to keep from cracking is to carve to thin enough dimensions that if the wood does want to move a little as it dries, it’s flexible enough to do so without cracking. Extra wood makes for extra tension. A good rule of thumb is for the bowl of the spoon to be just fatter than 1/8th of an inch when you’re done carving.
@@AnneofAllTrades Thank you ma'am!
Another tip to everyone if you want the spoons not to crack. Hold a spoon in boiling water for 25 minutes, and it will definitely not crack. If you want to make the wood softer, then hold the blanks in water, then it will be easier to cut them with a spoon.
Something I'd add from a ZedOutdoors Kuksa video: be careful when you're doing your axe work around the bowl. A little knick on the back of the bowl might actually have done more damage and result in a split later. That's for thicker wood that moves more, though.
Also, certain species tend to crack more readily, often very wet ones, though it seems like ash, which is pretty dry, crack a lot
Absolutely both things Anne said, especially carving your spoons nice and thin. You might need to go thicker if you're carving something like silver maple, just to keep the strength.
Keep them oiled. The traditional oil for preserving wood is linseed oil in western carpentry (the "raw", type not the "boiled") In Eastern tradition, they use oil from the tung nut. Both are very good. Tung oil smells worderful, but it is a very poignant smell that will dominate whatever taste or smell of the food you are eating with your spoon. Linseed oil has a more neutral smell, but it is not to everyone's liking, it doesn't smell like food.
Both of these can be gotten food-grade.
Paraphine oil can also be used. It is totally odorless and it works well too, but you should know that it is a petroleum product. I don't know if it is considered food-grade, but it is a non-toxic substance related to vaseline.
Vegetable cooking oils can be used too if you are in a pinch, but they don't penetrate as deep into the wood. Some vegetable oils, the "healthy ones" will get rancid with time. The same properties that make them healthy, is what makes them deteriorate (easier to break down)
Never wash wooden utensils in a dishwasher. Dishwasher detergent is a very strong alkaline that is made for dissolving fat and oil. This will leave the spoon unprotected, it will soak up water, and then dry out and crack.
Now, wood will naturally soak up ambient humidity, and even "cured" wood from the lumberyard will have a certain percent of water in it. Wood does not like to be 100% dry. The cell structure can't hold together if the wood is that dry.
What makes wood crack is if it is too dry, OR if the movement of water is too quick.
Freshly cut wood should cure slowly outside for a while before being taken inside. "One year per inch" is a rule of thumb but this will wary locally.
Oiling wood will replace the water in the cells with oil. Normally the oil will only penetrate a little under the surface, but you can force the oil to penetrate deeper by applying heat.
If you submerge your spoon in linseed oil, in a baking pan, you can heat it in the oven.
Go slowly on fairly low heat. You want to slowly simmer out the water from the wood. This takes some time. You don't want it as hot as a deep-fryer, just over the boiling temperature of water.
(Whatever that is in Fahrenheit... It's 100 C. Easy!)
The positivity you radiate is extremely encouraging, love it. I remember you posting your hardships here as well, and boy, you never lose that smile. What a champion!
That made my week. Thank you for the incredibly kind words ❤️❤️
From somebody who has been carving spoons decades before the Sloyd trend. I sand most of my spoons ending with burnishing the spoons with a cotton cloth. Roased Walnut oil which is a polymerizing or hardening oil will give a nice finish and protection. Flax oil will give your spoon more of a yellowing colour.
Sloyd is a rather funny spelling for being based on the Swedish word for handicraft, "slöjd".
what were you using instead of the Sloyd knife?
I never usually comment on videos or use the thumbs up button, but here I am…. This video is really useful as a starter, but above all great at inspiring me to do more carving! Thank you
I‘m carving spoons for three years now, using green wood as well as dry wood. (Mostly juniper and olive wood) I always sand my spoons up to 800 grit and get a silky smooth surface after finishing with walnut oil and wax based on walnut oil, bees and carnauba wax.
Happy carving
I use a little fine wet+dry paper (i use it dry) then bunish. Spoons seem fine and feel amazing.
I also sand with fine paper. Very fine sanding, contrary to rough sanding, produces a lot of fine wood powder that fills up the pores and makes is less susceptible to penetration by water, oil,...
I don't understand why one shouldn't sand their spoons. I sand mine everytime, especially when working with dry wood.
Opening up the wood grain by sanding can also help it uptake more oil. Anyway in the video they also say sanding is fine so the title is complete hogwash.
Anne, your teaching talent is evident in this instructional video and will help viewers make spoons and enjoy the process while having fun. Blessings to you.
Interesting way these two chosen to sit.
I had a carved spoon buisiness for about 15 years. I used hard sugar maple from a lumber yard for cabinet makers. I had patterns that I could duplicate with consistancy. I gave it up because of time, old age and price of materials. It was fun for many years and I had lots of tourists from local farmer market in summer
This was way more informative and useful than the popular expensive spoon carving book that pops up that i finally shelled out and bought, plus a bunch of long winded videos. Packed with information and i appreciate how you don't lay shame on sanding, just explain simply the benefits of doing otherwise. Love a post with tons of knowledge and no posturing ego, just good humor and useful info. And it was very helpful to hear that it used to take you hours but doesn't any more.. definitely a ray of light on making money with what is now a new passion.
Something rarely spoken of: Fine Motor Control,which is the finesse of careful and precise movement DISAPPEARS after about 6 pounds of muscle effort: it then becomes Gross Motor Control, like when you pick up a heavy back pack, or a bale of hay.
Dull cutting tools et al can put one into Gross Motor Control and THAT is when accidents happen. Sharp tools permit "finesse" and thus way more control and therefore are safer.
Well put
I've been looking for a hobby that doesn't involve sitting at the computer all day. This is giving me ideas! :)
I tried making a large spoon from the black walnut tree in my yard I cut down. I cracked the spoon end right in the middle so just cut it into a large salad mixing fork. I never set out to make a fork but have one now so it's kinda cool.
A little over 15 years ago my grandad brought me into his shop and we carved a whole dining set for camping wooden bowls cups and plates of black cherry and spreading knife and spoon of black chestnut I still use them every summer and fall around camp
Thats a good grandad, sounds fun
Quite enjoyed seeing how much you love what you do .
Also found your " counter to how I carve " enjoyable, helps me to be mindful of the many paths to art .
I carve dried and hardened woods , I do cut down my own trees time to time . I'll tell you , being a woodcarver first , and arborist second .
Well , I have to charge a flat rate to my neighbors when I drop trees or prune for them .
As with every cut, I'm also looking at what I can do with the wood if cut how .
Yes , I spoon , bowl and cup carve hardwood , not ever green . And I will hand sand with upto between 6 to 9 different grits of paper.
End results the piece gets so smooth it looks like they have been oiled already .
Carving the dry wood, I belive .
Makes sanding easier .
I'll give you a fun idea to try out .
Next nice dry hardwood carving , sand super smooth .
Add oil , take a blowtorch , scorch the whole piece .
Then sand, and sand again till smooth . What results , is a grain exposure your going to love .
The usual method of traditional wood preserving via Japanese woodworking " or old farmers with fence posts " is a deep burn then an oil.
But for a carving finish , sand , then oil , then burn . Then sand again , a lot .
Try a walnut oil beeswax finish .. go from there .
I think you will enjoy the results .
I'm never one to rush my work .
I take the time to take the time .
It's the process of doing and being that's my joy , not so much as the having .
Keep carving ! You have done well ! And I do admire how well you come across , I am not so versed on social media editing or whatnot , near zero followers , hehe , that's fine by me .
But I certainly admire what others can do as well .
It's always an extra inspiration to see the joy and love others have , for a craft and lifestyle which I love and gives me joy .
I’ve been turning bowls and vases for about 10 years and I’ve tried my hand at spoon carving, with less than stellar results😊. This video is fantastic! I’m going to try my luck with spoons again, now that I’m a lot more educated! Thanks Anne, subscribed!
You could turn the spoon handle and finish by hand!
She's so happy it's contagious !!
Loved this video, loved the whimsical music in the background too. Thank You Anne for this video, Thank You Adam for your production.
Ive been experimenting with a technique ive addapted from watching people make canoe paddles. I carve as close to a finished shape as possible and then starting with a medium/fine grit I give it a sanding, and in between grits I wipe it down with a lightly dampened cloth which takes the dust out of the pores and raises the fibers up for the next grit, move down to fine almost polishing grit and keep wiping in between. Repeat the last grit at least twice and buff/ burnish with a fine dry cloth after the finish goes on. I'll also add that when I but my oil/wax on, I rub it in kind of agressivly at first and "uphill" in the bowl to really get it in there. So far I've got spoons that water will run off of like a duck.
On rehydrating wood...I use steam to shape bowstaves...and have found that it's actually VERY effective in drying the wood quickly. Boiling it is even quicker. The heat drives the moisture OUT of the wood as it reaches temperature, so even though the outside of the wood is 'wet'...as you said, the heat dries that quickly, and you've evacuated much of the moisture that was inside through forced evaporation.
A lot of really good tips here Anne. I wish I would have known some of these tips when I started, others it always helps to be reminded of, and what you were saying about having to think 3 dimensionally and paying attention to reduction woodworking is so true. It takes a completely different mindset.
I remember reading of one of the old master sculptors, in regards to getting to his desired piece out of the medium, that he would picture the final piece, and carve away anything that wasn’t it. Seemed like a bit if a smart A** answer to me at the time, but that was breaking it down to the most basic.
Everyone wants an easy answer, or a tip of how to get there more quickly, when the old adage of practice, practice, practice, is the truest advice you can get. But more than that, effective practice, is the quickest way to becoming a master. (And to bring this full circle, your tips here are designed to, and will help someone, practice more effectively!)
Another thing about 3D thinking that didn’t make the cut of the video that has really positively affected my carving and 10x’d my efficiency is that we don’t actually *need* to think in 3D, we’re better off thinking in 2d.
We only carve / change one dimension at a time. We carve first a cookie cutter view of the front profile of the spoon, with perfectly square sides, and once we’re happy with that first shape, we turn it on it’s side and THEN carve the side profile.
Trying to work both simultaneously involves a lot of unnecessary tail chasing and reductionist thinking that frankly just aren’t necessary.
So first we make it crisp and square, and then we start rounding and blending all those lines together, not Willy Molly though, by intentionally dividing each space into quarters, then eighths, then 16ths. And by that time? You’ve got a finished spoon.
@@AnneofAllTrades that’s how I mow my grass 😂😂💡💡wait that’s how I do everything that gets completed. I think I’m on to something thanks Anne I’m suddenly inspired (until something catches my attention 😂)about how I do big projects that are almost always painful to finish if it gets finished 😂😂. Keep up the great work.
sanding is a choice some of us make because we like fine shapes. Some of us use spoon gauges because they are not limited so much by shape as are hook knives.
Excellent presentation Anne. Thank you.
Been spoon carving the whole of about 1 month I have done about 10 spoons now or something. And yeah defo got more than 10 slices. Great tips though and I will defo be checking out your safety tips article about the different grips.
I love how excited she is about this!
This is a very helpful and super informative video! I saved it right away so I can go back if needed.
So glad you liked it! 🙌
That’s the vid I was looking for. Tnx and greetings from Belgium
Great information! Ive carved a few spoons, but SLOWLY! So i really appreciate your tips here for doing it properly and more effectively. I use a lot of Ash wood (which is unfortunately dying from die-back in UK), wish i had access to beautiful Walnut wood. Thanks again for this great video 😊🌳💚
So glad it was helpful!
@mm9773 Yes it's around but I didn't find any in my area yet, and no friends have any in gardens, but im always on the lookout. I'll get some eventually, fingers crossed 🤞
I use only dry apple wood, but also i use chisels for gouging out the material :)
*Anne, that was the most informative video.... the Q&A is great with excellent explanations... Thank you.*
So glad you thought so!!
I like to whittle spoons while sitting around the campfire. A good jackknife handles the bulk of it. A hot coal sitting on the head of the spoon will slowly burn in the cup, and then the right stone works to sand away the charred bits. It's good fun and when you're done, you've got something you can use to eat your beans.
What a great informative video! I realize now why I was having such a hard time carving dry Cherry. (old too soon, smart too late) Thank you
What a great video full of information! Love the question/answer format. 🥰
So glad to hear it!
Big Mike! We see you Mike. Keep being friendly and don’t disappoint us.
He’s the best.
I just found your channel and I have literally fell in love with you and everything about you
I’ve been wood carving for several years and have always sanded the things I have made, [treated with oil and beeswax]
so when carving spoons I have done the same, [and treated them with non-toxic wood oil and then burnished them]
After watching this I carved my 1st spoon all the way to the final shape with just the flat blade and hook knife and no sanding.
It was extremely satisfying,
the finished item is profoundly different in its shape, the flat surfaces and sharp edges and angles completely change the way I look at a feel about the item
Good that you're posting more often. Two of my favorite Instagram people! Found my Anne of All Trades tee shirt which I purchased when they came out.
Thank you so much for supporting us!!
👍
I’ve carved a handful of spoons (never green) and found these tips helpful, thanks!
Fun fact: Sloyd, as in sloyd knife, is swedish, and means handicraft. We spell it slöjd.
Huh. So essentially a sloyd knife was pretty much the original E.D.C. ( every day carry) before the term was coined. That's pretty spiffy.
Love the hoodie, who makes em?!
I have to keep the wind off my neck but can't use a scarf as they can get loose and caught up in machines. I also losing them!
Nice kombo Anne and Michael. Good information. Thanks. ❤😤🇸🇪
Very useful information and quite inspirational. Thanks.
So happy to hear that!
Very cool and helpful tips for the spooncarver. Thank you!
I plan on learning wood carving. This was very informative.
So glad it was helpful!
This is a very helpful video Mrs. Anne. Your content is one of the reasons I got into spoon carving.
That makes my heart sing! Send me some pictures of your spoons!
@@AnneofAllTrades email sent!
Buen video, me encanta tu historia de como comenzaste en la arcilla
Thank you Anne 🙌
Bien joué le gode camouflé en Lama!
What a great Q & A!
So glad you liked it!
Awesome stuff Anne! 😃👍🏻🥄👊🏻
A very interesting video.Thanks for the tips.
Awesome video, I love your enthusiasm
Today I may try my first. There's always relatively fresh cut wood in the park where I'm going today.
You can also seal off the cut ends of your wood with wax. That’s how woodturners slow down the drying for less cracking
You can wet sand the spoon. Simply dip the spoon in water and let it soak in and dry. That raises the grain. Then resand and fuzz is gone. Some furniture makers do that before they finish. I then polish it to 12000 micro mesh.
You're pretty cool Anne. Right on. George.
Thanks George! Glad you’re here
I carved my first two spoons out of Osage orange wood one of the hardest woods in North America.
everything is easier after that kind of intro 😂
I’m imagining a walk-in freezer in/behind your barn filled with ziplock bags of wet wood spoon blanks now. Thanks for the great content. Can’t wait for your collab with Rex Krueger and Wood by Wright.
Paint the ends of the logs with a latex paint.stops from drying out😊
Two of my favorite content creators, and one of them is wearing a hat from a third.
That makes me smile huge
I just started spoon carving and I’d like to see more on your process of sharpening those tools. Especially the hook knife.
Check out my spoon carving playlist! Tutorials on sharpening and the whole process
@@AnneofAllTrades Oh cool! I will then. Thank you
Just curious as a woodworker (I make folk instruments primarily), have you tried tung oil on your spoons? If so why did you settle on walnut oil? Thanks in advance!
Nicely done. The square page link sends you to a sign up page.
Interesting comment about the alpaca carving. I’ve said for years you think you know what something looks like until you try to carve one 😂. Even a human face…. I almost never carve green wood, it’s just how it is. The hardest to carve was barrel staves from 50 year old bourbon barrels. White Oak is a great wood for spoons but omg rock hard, made amazing spoons and spatulas.
That is sooo true.
I rough out my spoon blanks and soak them in water and alcohol then do finishing cuts at my leisure. Without the alcohol the wood will get slimy.
I so enjoy your videos!!!
Thank you! That makes me happy to know
I live in Arizona. On my property i have Eucalyptus, Mesquite and Palo Verde are they safe wood to use to make a spoon and bowl
I wish you review how to make a strop n do it slow n explain items used to make it.
i exlusively use dry wood ab really enjoy carving birch wood
fantastic skills
Carved my first spoon. Will gift it to my mom
Awesome stuff 🎉😮
Thanks for sharing
A little ago I got into greenwood carving and I'm loving it! But I'm struggling to do it in the cold, as I only do it outside (cos I can't keep the wood shavings from going everywhere while I carve). How do you carve on your sofa without it ending up completely covered by wood shavings??
I’ve started using a towel. I drape it over my lap and it catches ~most~ of my shavings. If I’m starting with a larger piece of wood and need to rough cut the outline of my piece, I’ll take it outside to get the larger pieces off.
As always Anne, an informative and interesting video that’s taking everything I have to stop my adhd brain starting a new craft 😂
SQUIRREL!
Guys need to make more room in the trades for ladies. I've worked with some very talented women in my years of construction. Ladies, get out there and do this kind of thing if it interests you. Don't let the bad guys get in your way. Cheers.
When I glanced at the screen I did NOT think that was an alpaca. The internet has ruined me.
I have to say I scrolled back also
😂. Same
😂
I think Freud would love your Alpaca.
😂😂😂😂
Thank you. This is the video I needed. I don't consider myself a new carver, so this answered my questions.
So glad to hear it!
Thank you so much for this video I learned so much! Would I be able to use a Apple tree? For spatulas
Yes of course! Apple is amazing to carve
@@AnneofAllTrades okay thank you! I’m just starting out only done red oak and Cherry so far
Carving whilst sitting around the camp fire. Imagining that is bliss.
I was surprised to hear that sanding wasn’t recommended as I’ve been sanding my finished spoons with superfine sandpaper and they’ve always been great!! But recently I’ve learned how to burnish the surface with a smooth rock and that really adds an amazing lustre to the finish. Do you ever burnish your finished spoons? What are your thoughts on that process?
Amazing!!! Very cool!
Tha didn't look like an alpaca at first, I thought it was a morning wood sculpture 😂
Hi Anne, I always love your videos!
Where did you get those scrap sandpapers from/where might you suggest I source some for myself?
Thanks!
Here’s a link :) www.amazon.com/shop/anneofalltrades/list/3EO5LOCO3XS76?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_aipsflist_aipsfanneofalltrades_8GTGPV54V3JDW46TBAAZ
Holy $#!t -- Anne, you rock! Thank you for sharing! I have enjoy woodworking with my axe. This is the next level for me :D
Do you use a thumb guard? My non knife hand is taking a beating, just sore, working on my first spoon carving the dry block of wood that came with my knife kit.
I do not, I’ve found that carving gloves and guards are actually more dangerous due to the loss of dexterity and, having “safeguards” like those in place, I think it’s easier to develop more dangerous habits than simply working to ingrain safe habits from the outset. The book and accompanying video called Greenwood Spoon Carving by Emmet Van Driesche published by mortise and tenon magazine is a truly phenomenal resource I’d highly recommend.
Better to say, the harder you pull, the less control you have. Thumbs up
Love your video, very clear! My question is: once you put your moist wood in the freezer to prevent it from drying too quickly, is it necessary for the freezer to be switched on or not? I want to slowly dry a large piece of oak in France, where temperatures go + 10 or 20 degrees Celsius every day! Thanks in advance for answering :)
Great video but gotta ask, what’s the deal with that lama?? Lol!!
Couldn’t you paint the ends of the wood/logs to help keep the moisture in?
So, I have Cherry logs that have been stack outside now for a year. Can the wood be wetted to induce moisture back in before I use it for spoons???
I found it kind of funny that Michael asked a question, I thought of what I would answer in my head -and then Anne gave more or less exactly that answer! 😄 Through the whole video!
Great resource for beginners 👍
I love it when that happens! I felt that way watching the documentary “the biggest little farm” and it made my heart sing to have known the “answers”
Green wood is also good for learning wood turning on a lathe.
I know you mention walnut and fruit wood, but is maple a good alternative as well?
Sure, butt you’ll soon understand why it’s called a hardwood.
Great video ! Q: How long do you let the green wood spoon dry before using it ?
I try to use it immediately after being cut if not sooner- with the exception of cherry, which, for whatever reason, seems to do better if cut into long lengths and then aged in the log for a couple months prior to using, but when doing that, you’ve gotta be exxxxxxtra careful not to run into accidental checks or cracks in the material
Thank you : ) @@AnneofAllTrades
You mentioned using log diameter 3 times the width of the spoon so you can avoid pith. How exactly is the potential spoon oriented inside the log? Which parts do I remove and avoid. I'm guessing split it in half\quarters depending on the log size and then use the part closer to bark- do I use only 1\3, half or 2\3 of the log sector?
PS Pith is also confusing. In apple trees it is not pithy at all, it is the harderst part, but also cracks the most.
I think the term pith is getting in your way a bit- pithy usually means soft or stringy, but the pith is the center ring of the tree (it’s rarely actually in the exact center, however). We want to split the log in half with equal heft on either side of the pith, then, depending on the log size, quarter, etc but then make sure to cut away the pith and at least 1/2” of the wood surrounding the pith in every direction before we carve, because that is where the most tension in the log lives, which is also why you’re struggling with cracking/warping. If you remove the pith and surrounding wood, everything else is useable. Knots, burls or branch inclusions will make the interior grain do funny things, so I tend to try to find the clearest, cleanest sections and use those first.
Ok, thank you!
Could you use vegetable oil on it to seal them?
Ann another question how do you treat spoons etc once you finish carving is dry them out without risking splitting or warping and do you need to put a finish of any sort
That is a great question! Two tricks to prevent splitting/warping while drying: remember how I said you want the wood to be 3x thicker than the spoon you want to carve? That’s because we cut the middle third, where the pith, or center of the tree is located, out and discard it. If we’re carving at least 1/2 inch, in every direction, AWAY from the pith, the chances of cracking are far smaller. Because those circles around the pith are so small, we know that’s where there’s the most tension in the wood. As that shrinks and dries, it’s the most likely part of the tree to crack.
Have you ever noticed how as firewood dries, all the cracks point toward the pith?
The other trick to keep from cracking is to carve to thin enough dimensions that if the wood does want to move a little as it dries, it’s flexible enough to do so without cracking. Extra wood makes for extra tension. A good rule of thumb is for the bowl of the spoon to be just fatter than 1/8th of an inch when you’re done carving.
If you carve it to thin enough dimensions, it will dry out in open air in 2-3 days. I use walnut oil and sometimes a coat of burnished beeswax over top to add another layer of protection.
@@AnneofAllTrades thank you Ann it was along those lines that I was thinking I think I've just got to be brave enough to carve them thin enough 😉
Will the spoon crack when the wood dries? If so, what to do when done with the carving, sanding and oiling?
I believe we covered that later in the video, but if carved to the proper thickness from the right section of wood from the tree, cracking and warping shouldn’t be an issue
@@AnneofAllTrades thank you :) love your videoes!
I’ve been carving for a long time. What I want to know is how to make a living doing it? How much is a wooden spoon worth?
Had to do a double take on that alpaca carving! 🤣
That was a… hilarious accident that wasn’t considered in the design process. It wasn’t until I was watching the video back in the editing process that I realized what it looked like 😂😂😂