I have an idea for them: they could integrate some threshold into their gear that automatically pauses the music or what you are listening to, to make you be careful when working with a loud (and supposedly dangerous) machine. Of course you should be able to switch that of when you're working in a constantly loud environment (air filter or so).
And to think it took over forty years for someone to show me an easier way, and it's so simple. Have I been living in a closet my whole life? Thanks James.
not a bad idea, but remember: every saw has a little wobble in the blade, so I find it unlikely it would be exact ENOUGH to make this work. Good test to run I suppose
Great title - I do a lot of wood work and get really tired of the “negative presumption” concept that is some guy telling me what “everyone gets wrong” or “what I don’t know” when in reality many very much know and it’s a click bait tactic. Your title and overall presentation is an honest and pragmatic effective strategy for joints that anyone can do. Bravo
I just figured this out myself 2 days ago when I cut a bunch of dados for a multi-shelf metal stock holding rack! It took me a while to figure out but it is pretty much genius! Next time please come out with your video 2 days earlier! Thank you! :)
Great tips thanks. The method I use for setting blade height is to simply use a piece of wood that’s the same thickness as your project wood (think cutoff) and cut a 45 on one end flip it face down and cut the 45 again. The tip of the angle (
I LOVE half lap joints, they're my favorite. Perfect for a guy like me who's lazy AND wants a strong glued up joint! 🤣 Thanks for the great tips, yours are some of the most straight forward and easy to understand of any I've seen.
Another technique I've used is to use an offcut of the piece you plan to join. Rip it and then glue it back together. The rip takes out one kerf width, and the little bit of glue adds just the right amount of extra space.
I'm so glad you made this video. I have never understood why the kerf jigs were so popular on other videos when they are harder to set up. I actually just use setup blocks as my spacer to match my blade kerf. They are a great gift idea for woodworkers and I find all sorts of uses for them on my projects. Another alternative is to use a drill bit.
@jrock8954 clamp it down and take it out. The kerf jigs are also metal unless you make your own. I do like the method in the video also. If you can keep track of that little spacer, it is probably the way to go.
For setting the blade height, instead of iterative passes, I just count how many crank turns (including the fractional turn at the end) it takes to raise the blade from zero (raising the blade until it barely grazes a flat scrap of wood) to the thickness of the material (teeth barely grazing the same scrap overhanging from the top surface of the workpiece). Then I lower the blade by exactly half what I have counted. To cleanup any issues with slack, I end with a half turn of the crank down and then up again.
Your videos are helping me a lot. I recently watched your sanding video using poly while sanding to fill wood grain. It saved my project. Making an end table with red oak. That grain was giving me trouble. Fixed now.
Just wanted to say I finally got the ISOtunes LINK Aware headphones and my ears did thank me. Now using the gas powered pressure washer is even more enjoyable. I love being able to adjust the Aware volume and can hear much more of my surroundings and still listen to a podcast.
Awesome video as always. To find the halfway point even faster, Microjig has the Fitfinder 1/2 gauge that does this in seconds without removing any stock. It is $35 though, but performs as promised.
I made some half lap jpints for cabinet door frames with glass within. They were white oak with a clear finish. I glued the laps with titebond and then put several 5/8"brads in the back side of the lap at angles to resist pulloout . I tried to pull apart a test piece and was amazed at how strong the joints were!
Once again, very interesting idea and concept. I'll be trying those ideas myself even though I have make lots of such joins over the years. A new quicker idea is always worth trying...
You keep doing it,my friend. Inspiring me, that is. I’ve shied away from lap joints before, but you have made me want to go downstairs and try one. But it’s 1:01 a.m., so I’ll have to wait. But I’m going to do it. The first thing, of course, is the thin spline. Thank you again, James.
Oh god thank you. I knew there was a way to do that correctly without any mesure. I tried to figure it out myself to be able to do that but I could not. Now I know. And that's the perfect timing as I was going to need to do something like that probably the next weekend.
Wish I saw this 2 weeks ago when building a cabinet/base for a work table. The half laps would make assembly much simpler with accurate alignment than dowels and pocket holes. Thanks again James, another efficient technique teaching lesson.
Out of all your videos, this will be one that I will put on my save list. Easy to understand and something I needed. They got to change your name, though to Harvey stumpy.
Another brilliant shop aid from James! And, unlike ewjorgy, I didn't figure it out myself. Thank you for all the tips, tricks, tool tips, and all the other content you have shared over the years.
You made it look so easy and it really works so simple, make some and practice some to see how simple it can be for you. Thanks for sharing James, Stay safe and keep up the great videos. Fred.
Great video. I use my tablesaw for the first reference ce as you do. However I then also set up my bandsaw and remove the wast for 1/2 lap and mostly for tenons. Thank you👍
Great idea! And I think a lot of people take half laps for granted. But, despite their relative simplicity they are a strong and pretty cool looking joint.
Thank you for that. I have seen some expensive jigs for sale that use the same principle (not sure about center half laps), have been looking for a cheap solution
There are more and more methods and jigs (like some finger joint jigs) that needs a kerf thick shim. It would be great if blade companies would sell exact width metal shims for these
Nice video mate. I still prefer to use my skills with a marking knife, handsaw, chisel and mallet etc. My only power tools are an electric drill, orbital sander and a kettle. I understand why people would use a tablesaw etc. as they can start building without having to spend years learning how to use and maintain tools.
The best shims/spacers I use in a pinch is drillbits. They double as setup blocks if its not worth making a spacer. Most people have a set of 20 or 30 in increments of 1/16 and they're precise. Single blade is usually just a 1/8 bit and you can go from there...
Many saw blades, including "full kerf" blades, are not exactly 1/8". But if you have a large set that includes 1/32 or 1/64 increments, you might find one that works.
I'm not sure if you've covered this before or if it was somebody else, I've seen it and thanks for reminding me of it. I have a project to do that this tip will come in handy. Thanks Jim!
If only Isotunes were as comfortable as the 3M's. I bought the Isotunes a couple of years ago, at your recommendation, wore them a lot and thought nothing of it until I tried on the 3M Bluetooth Earmuffs. Oh my god what a difference in comfort. The Isotunes are hard and horrible by comparison AND I had to dismantle them after less than 12 months of weekend use and locate and fix an open circuit that was caused by the bending of the wire when folding them down after every use for storage. The real kicker is the 3M's are cheaper....
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Code does not work in the EU :(
I have used this same half lap technique from the beginning :). Great idea :) and easy to do :)
Doesn't work on the UK store which is a shame, I'd love to get some IsoTunes finally :(.
I have an idea for them: they could integrate some threshold into their gear that automatically pauses the music or what you are listening to, to make you be careful when working with a loud (and supposedly dangerous) machine. Of course you should be able to switch that of when you're working in a constantly loud environment (air filter or so).
@@DamianDArienzo @TacticalBrick87 seems like us Europeans are not entitled to get discounts
Just used the code for some earbuds. Thanks for the tips too! Love the shim idea.
Tip: Most blades are usually 3mm or 3/32 or 1/8 thickness, so you probably already have a drill bit of a matching thickness to use as a shim.
I use the same way. Just make a test cut and look for a drill that fits perfectly. In my case metric size.
Now there's a real tip!
Thanks for this, my brain was trying to figure out the best way to cut the shim.
Wow thx for the tip 👍
Who would’ve thought a drill bit
And to think it took over forty years for someone to show me an easier way, and it's so simple. Have I been living in a closet my whole life? Thanks James.
Every day's a school day!
@@UsualYaddaYadda LEARNING EVERY DAY
Saw blades should include plastic shims of the same kerf.
not a bad idea, but remember: every saw has a little wobble in the blade, so I find it unlikely it would be exact ENOUGH to make this work. Good test to run I suppose
What blades are you buying that have the gauge???
👍
@@gyixtaoThan you can add some tape to the shim to get the desired thickness but it would be an easier start.
I had made several shims using 3d printer.
Great title - I do a lot of wood work and get really tired of the “negative presumption” concept that is some guy telling me what “everyone gets wrong” or “what I don’t know” when in reality many very much know and it’s a click bait tactic. Your title and overall presentation is an honest and pragmatic effective strategy for joints that anyone can do. Bravo
I just figured this out myself 2 days ago when I cut a bunch of dados for a multi-shelf metal stock holding rack! It took me a while to figure out but it is pretty much genius! Next time please come out with your video 2 days earlier! Thank you! :)
Great tips thanks. The method I use for setting blade height is to simply use a piece of wood that’s the same thickness as your project wood (think cutoff) and cut a 45 on one end flip it face down and cut the 45 again. The tip of the angle (
I was taught that 35 years ago in high school.
However I forgot all about the technique until watching this video.
Thank you for the refresher.
I LOVE half lap joints, they're my favorite. Perfect for a guy like me who's lazy AND wants a strong glued up joint! 🤣 Thanks for the great tips, yours are some of the most straight forward and easy to understand of any I've seen.
Another technique I've used is to use an offcut of the piece you plan to join. Rip it and then glue it back together. The rip takes out one kerf width, and the little bit of glue adds just the right amount of extra space.
That’s very clever. Thanks for the tip.
The most useful channel on youtube!
These are the kind of tip videos I wish all the woodworker creators made.
The occasional drool tool videos are nice, but only occasionally.
I don’t know how you do it as often as you do, but hey man, you make my life so much better thank you.
You have a great talent in keeping these very informative videos short and to the point. Great work.
I'm so glad you made this video. I have never understood why the kerf jigs were so popular on other videos when they are harder to set up. I actually just use setup blocks as my spacer to match my blade kerf. They are a great gift idea for woodworkers and I find all sorts of uses for them on my projects. Another alternative is to use a drill bit.
My only concern is having small metal objects on the saw table vey near a spinning blade. Accidents happen.
@jrock8954 clamp it down and take it out. The kerf jigs are also metal unless you make your own. I do like the method in the video also. If you can keep track of that little spacer, it is probably the way to go.
For setting the blade height, instead of iterative passes, I just count how many crank turns (including the fractional turn at the end) it takes to raise the blade from zero (raising the blade until it barely grazes a flat scrap of wood) to the thickness of the material (teeth barely grazing the same scrap overhanging from the top surface of the workpiece). Then I lower the blade by exactly half what I have counted.
To cleanup any issues with slack, I end with a half turn of the crank down and then up again.
Great idea. Thanks
Great tip! So obvious but yet not.
It's been awhile because of health reasons but always you give inspiration to get back and build something and I do have a list.
Get back on it! Doing good stuff helps you heal. Make you feel good about yourself at the very least. Good luck! Chronic health issues are the worst.
4:05 Why not just align the blade to the right side of the line
This is thee best woodworking channel, so informative and great tool and skill tips
This is brilliant in its simplicity. Thank you for sharing this.
Great info, James. Thanks for all you do to make things easier.
Another great video by Pavel Evmenov: A table made of logs. Oak 133 years old.
I was completely confident about doing this right up to the point where you said….”it’s impossible to screw up”
I love these simple setups that give great results. Thank you James!
"Virtually impossible to screw up" ... Oh you don't know me haha
Your videos are helping me a lot. I recently watched your sanding video using poly while sanding to fill wood grain. It saved my project. Making an end table with red oak. That grain was giving me trouble. Fixed now.
Just wanted to say I finally got the ISOtunes LINK Aware headphones and my ears did thank me. Now using the gas powered pressure washer is even more enjoyable. I love being able to adjust the Aware volume and can hear much more of my surroundings and still listen to a podcast.
Awesome video as always. To find the halfway point even faster, Microjig has the Fitfinder 1/2 gauge that does this in seconds without removing any stock. It is $35 though, but performs as promised.
I made some half lap jpints for cabinet door frames with glass within. They were white oak with a clear finish. I glued the laps with titebond and then put several 5/8"brads in the back side of the lap at angles to resist pulloout . I tried to pull apart a test piece and was amazed at how strong the joints were!
I don’t save many videos but I did save this one for future reference. Thanks James! 😎
Fantastic tip! Thanks.
Your explanation and showing the process was Excellent! It looked very itimidating, but i tried it, and Wow!! Perfect Thank You
Once again, very interesting idea and concept. I'll be trying those ideas myself even though I have make lots of such joins over the years. A new quicker idea is always worth trying...
thank you much for the 30%...my son is taking construction classes at school and this will make a great Christmas gift and I can get mine back😅
You keep doing it,my friend. Inspiring me, that is. I’ve shied away from lap joints before, but you have made me want to go downstairs and try one. But it’s 1:01 a.m., so I’ll have to wait. But I’m going to do it. The first thing, of course, is the thin spline. Thank you again, James.
Oh god thank you. I knew there was a way to do that correctly without any mesure. I tried to figure it out myself to be able to do that but I could not. Now I know. And that's the perfect timing as I was going to need to do something like that probably the next weekend.
Wish I saw this 2 weeks ago when building a cabinet/base for a work table. The half laps would make assembly much simpler with accurate alignment than dowels and pocket holes. Thanks again James, another efficient technique teaching lesson.
Out of all your videos, this will be one that I will put on my save list. Easy to understand and something I needed. They got to change your name, though to Harvey stumpy.
Great video, l watch this several times!
Thank you so much for the excellent tip! I can't wait to try it. 😃😃😃❤❤❤
3:37 The cut went past the mark. Did you have to go back and adjust the length of the piece so the end would be flush?
I've got cabinets in my home built with this method that are 42 years old and they're as solid today as the day they were built. Dated but solid.
I actually bookmarked this video. Will need to go to this in a few weeks for a project and this was the clearest on this issue seen to date. Thanks!
Love to see more of that table. Was thinking about a trestle but I like yours!
Another brilliant shop aid from James! And, unlike ewjorgy, I didn't figure it out myself. Thank you for all the tips, tricks, tool tips, and all the other content you have shared over the years.
Thanks! Right on time. I am hoping to work with lap joints this coming weekend.
Such an amazing tip James Thank you so much for sharing this. Definitely going to save this video.
You made it look so easy and it really works so simple, make some and practice some to see how simple it can be for you. Thanks for sharing James, Stay safe and keep up the great videos. Fred.
Thanks a bunch for the tutorial, James! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I enjoy all of your videos and as one who pays monthly for no ads on TH-cam I tremendously appreciate you putithem at the end. I wish everyone did.
Great video brother!😉👍🏾
Your teaching ability is fantastic.
Great video. I use my tablesaw for the first reference ce as you do. However I then also set up my bandsaw and remove the wast for 1/2 lap and mostly for tenons. Thank you👍
Brilliantly simple and simply brilliant!
Great technique and video of how it is done. Thank you.
Great idea! And I think a lot of people take half laps for granted. But, despite their relative simplicity they are a strong and pretty cool looking joint.
Thank you for sharing, wonderful tip. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
I've been needing some earmuffs and due to this, I have them! Thnx. Now I i just need a table saw for rip cuts.
Thank you!! Ordered a pair of earmuffs, and greatly apprec iate the half lap technique!
This is so fine!!! Thank you so very much for the blessings!!
Brilliant! If you had only posted this about a week ago... still great for future projects!
You can also use a deck of cards with the same thickness as your blade as your shim.
Dammit! I just made a cross-lap and it came out, well, it came out.
Def committing this technique to memory. 👍🏼
You are a great tutor
This was excellent ty
I pause to look around your workshop, it's perfection !
Great info , thank you.
This is Awesome! I wish I knew this before I cut the 26 half laps I currently have in my garage staining.
Great tip that I know will come in handy. Thanks
Now I need a project for this technique, can't wait!
A good technique, James. Thank you for sharing.
Blade shim works great, every time I do them takes a little time to get my shim and remember how but it is simple 👍
Thanks, James! I learn so much from this channel!
Thank you for that.
I have seen some expensive jigs for sale that use the same principle (not sure about center half laps), have been looking for a cheap solution
You have shown the shim method before. Thanks for Shim 2.0! That table is stunning.
There are more and more methods and jigs (like some finger joint jigs) that needs a kerf thick shim. It would be great if blade companies would sell exact width metal shims for these
Really good tips. Could you come out with another video going into a little more detail about cross block?
Great clear instructional video
I have owned a table saw for 10 years, but only now have I learnt this method. I just wish we were allowed to have Dado sets on table saws in the UK.
Nice video mate. I still prefer to use my skills with a marking knife, handsaw, chisel and mallet etc. My only power tools are an electric drill, orbital sander and a kettle. I understand why people would use a tablesaw etc. as they can start building without having to spend years learning how to use and maintain tools.
You make things simple. How exciting!
Thanks I was thinking about the pencil marks to work this way also make it square
Great video, love this channel, keep up the great work!
Thanks James, as always great information.
Thanks James, love your videos and to help repay you for all the great content over the years I ordered some isotunes. 👍
The best shims/spacers I use in a pinch is drillbits. They double as setup blocks if its not worth making a spacer. Most people have a set of 20 or 30 in increments of 1/16 and they're precise. Single blade is usually just a 1/8 bit and you can go from there...
Many saw blades, including "full kerf" blades, are not exactly 1/8". But if you have a large set that includes 1/32 or 1/64 increments, you might find one that works.
I'm not sure if you've covered this before or if it was somebody else, I've seen it and thanks for reminding me of it. I have a project to do that this tip will come in handy. Thanks Jim!
It is similar to the dado cutting technique i made a past video about.
Very practical, useful tips!!! Thanks!
Why not just move the stop block instead of using a shim?
Easier to add a shim than it is to move the block over the amount you need to
That’s what iam thinking
It's about being precise and fast. You're right, and you can be as precise with that strategy, just takes a minute longer.
Great tips! Thanks for sharing 🇬🇧
That's all very....think you should do a video to make shims which is the same thickness as the blade
Again, BOOM! learned something new. Thank you!!!!
you just ended my frustration building these type joints Thanks again
Great idea!
Thank you Sir.🎉
Great tips and explanation!
Thanks for the good tips🪚
If only Isotunes were as comfortable as the 3M's. I bought the Isotunes a couple of years ago, at your recommendation, wore them a lot and thought nothing of it until I tried on the 3M Bluetooth Earmuffs. Oh my god what a difference in comfort. The Isotunes are hard and horrible by comparison AND I had to dismantle them after less than 12 months of weekend use and locate and fix an open circuit that was caused by the bending of the wire when folding them down after every use for storage.
The real kicker is the 3M's are cheaper....
You the man StumpNubs!
Very clever I love watching you every day I’m your big fan
And to think, Microjig sells a jig for setting your saw blade for half laps, but now I can do it for free in less time. Thanks James!
Pretty smart! But that is what I have come to expect from you!