not a bad idea, but remember: every saw has a little wobble in the blade, so I find it unlikely it would be exact ENOUGH to make this work. Good test to run I suppose
And to think it took over forty years for someone to show me an easier way, and it's so simple. Have I been living in a closet my whole life? Thanks James.
I LOVE half lap joints, they're my favorite. Perfect for a guy like me who's lazy AND wants a strong glued up joint! 🤣 Thanks for the great tips, yours are some of the most straight forward and easy to understand of any I've seen.
I just figured this out myself 2 days ago when I cut a bunch of dados for a multi-shelf metal stock holding rack! It took me a while to figure out but it is pretty much genius! Next time please come out with your video 2 days earlier! Thank you! :)
Your videos are helping me a lot. I recently watched your sanding video using poly while sanding to fill wood grain. It saved my project. Making an end table with red oak. That grain was giving me trouble. Fixed now.
For setting the blade height, instead of iterative passes, I just count how many crank turns (including the fractional turn at the end) it takes to raise the blade from zero (raising the blade until it barely grazes a flat scrap of wood) to the thickness of the material (teeth barely grazing the same scrap overhanging from the top surface of the workpiece). Then I lower the blade by exactly half what I have counted. To cleanup any issues with slack, I end with a half turn of the crank down and then up again.
You keep doing it,my friend. Inspiring me, that is. I’ve shied away from lap joints before, but you have made me want to go downstairs and try one. But it’s 1:01 a.m., so I’ll have to wait. But I’m going to do it. The first thing, of course, is the thin spline. Thank you again, James.
Awesome video as always. To find the halfway point even faster, Microjig has the Fitfinder 1/2 gauge that does this in seconds without removing any stock. It is $35 though, but performs as promised.
Great video. I use my tablesaw for the first reference ce as you do. However I then also set up my bandsaw and remove the wast for 1/2 lap and mostly for tenons. Thank you👍
Another technique I've used is to use an offcut of the piece you plan to join. Rip it and then glue it back together. The rip takes out one kerf width, and the little bit of glue adds just the right amount of extra space.
You made it look so easy and it really works so simple, make some and practice some to see how simple it can be for you. Thanks for sharing James, Stay safe and keep up the great videos. Fred.
Great idea! And I think a lot of people take half laps for granted. But, despite their relative simplicity they are a strong and pretty cool looking joint.
Thank you for that. I have seen some expensive jigs for sale that use the same principle (not sure about center half laps), have been looking for a cheap solution
I'm not sure if you've covered this before or if it was somebody else, I've seen it and thanks for reminding me of it. I have a project to do that this tip will come in handy. Thanks Jim!
Great tip, thanks as always. One gripe I have about isotunes is the descriptions on their website. It’s really tough to differentiate between all the over the ear bud style options they offer. Not much can be learned from the product comparison feature.
This is nice and helps simplify tasks that I for sure was previously over complicating, but it would have been nice if you went a bit more into detail regarding the angled cuts. You mentioned it, the angle and such, but kind of just glossed over it. Given the video's purpose it's fine, just wish it was explained as that is newer information I would have liked to learn more sufficiently.
Have you got a video on making a finger joint jig? Had a relative call to see if I have one, which I just haven't gotten around to making one, so after 3-4 tries, he went to the woodworking store to buy one. I may have to save this video, as the last time I made lap joints, I did not have a reason to call my friends and say come look at my wood joint.
I use isotunes 8 hours a day in a large guitar woodshop. The orange ones have too short a battery life. After one and a half days use they are empty. My previous 3M ones I would only charge once a week. Also, the comfort isn’t there with the orange ones for longtime use. Sore ears at the end of the day. When these give it up, I’m switching back to 3M
🤔 this seems simple but still more complicated than using my skill saw set at the appropriate depth that's been my ideal way for years. Simply using the pieces themselves to mark width of the lap.
3:36 “it couldn’t be simpler and it’s virtually impossible to screw up.” Immediately followed by a cut that doesn’t line up with the mark on the wood. 😂
The mark on the wood is a relatively rough line made by a wide pencil lead tracing along the edge of the wood. If you're a woodworker, you know what I am talking about. How it goes together is what matters, and it fits... This isn't the gotcha you think it is.
I wonder about the ISOtunes ads that appear. I own a oair of Sony bluetooth headphones that cover my ears and offer noise cancellation. These are over the ear phones. When I turn on the noise cancellation I hear verry little sound. At the same time, these sre excellent sounding headphones, in my opinion and rated as duch in reviews. What advantage eould ISOtunes headphones offer over these? I don't discount James' reciews and his desire to support family run businesses. But the frequency that James mentions ISOtunes makes me wonder if I am missing out somehow. Any thoughts, woodworkers?
Can it really be as simple as you demonstrate? It sure looks as it is so. Would I doubt you? NO, not if I want to avoid the wrath of the You Tube gods! Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
There is no need for your shim....Just mark the kerf of on your sled and align your marks with your piece. Plus in your first cut you were 1/16th off....maybe a 32nd. You usually have great tips, just not seeing how this is one.
I"m sure you know better but you said suggested something dangerous, "you can use your saw's rip fence as a stop block". I guess when you put the shim against it and then slide the miter gauge forward you leave a gap, just don't want people to think you can use the rip fence with the miter gauge normally.
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Code does not work in the EU :(
I have used this same half lap technique from the beginning :). Great idea :) and easy to do :)
Doesn't work on the UK store which is a shame, I'd love to get some IsoTunes finally :(.
Saw blades should include plastic shims of the same kerf.
not a bad idea, but remember: every saw has a little wobble in the blade, so I find it unlikely it would be exact ENOUGH to make this work. Good test to run I suppose
What blades are you buying that have the gauge???
👍
And to think it took over forty years for someone to show me an easier way, and it's so simple. Have I been living in a closet my whole life? Thanks James.
Every day's a school day!
I LOVE half lap joints, they're my favorite. Perfect for a guy like me who's lazy AND wants a strong glued up joint! 🤣 Thanks for the great tips, yours are some of the most straight forward and easy to understand of any I've seen.
I just figured this out myself 2 days ago when I cut a bunch of dados for a multi-shelf metal stock holding rack! It took me a while to figure out but it is pretty much genius! Next time please come out with your video 2 days earlier! Thank you! :)
I was taught that 35 years ago in high school.
However I forgot all about the technique until watching this video.
Thank you for the refresher.
Tip: Most blades are usually 3mm or 3/32 or 1/8 thickness, so you probably already have a drill bit of a matching thickness to use as a shim.
4:42 "... and the fit will be so satisfying
that you'll be calling your friends to come and see what a master you are."
What a great line!!😊
Your videos are helping me a lot. I recently watched your sanding video using poly while sanding to fill wood grain. It saved my project. Making an end table with red oak. That grain was giving me trouble. Fixed now.
The most useful channel on youtube!
You have a great talent in keeping these very informative videos short and to the point. Great work.
For setting the blade height, instead of iterative passes, I just count how many crank turns (including the fractional turn at the end) it takes to raise the blade from zero (raising the blade until it barely grazes a flat scrap of wood) to the thickness of the material (teeth barely grazing the same scrap overhanging from the top surface of the workpiece). Then I lower the blade by exactly half what I have counted.
To cleanup any issues with slack, I end with a half turn of the crank down and then up again.
I don’t know how you do it as often as you do, but hey man, you make my life so much better thank you.
This is brilliant in its simplicity. Thank you for sharing this.
You keep doing it,my friend. Inspiring me, that is. I’ve shied away from lap joints before, but you have made me want to go downstairs and try one. But it’s 1:01 a.m., so I’ll have to wait. But I’m going to do it. The first thing, of course, is the thin spline. Thank you again, James.
I love these simple setups that give great results. Thank you James!
Thanks a bunch for the tutorial, James! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
thank you much for the 30%...my son is taking construction classes at school and this will make a great Christmas gift and I can get mine back😅
Awesome video as always. To find the halfway point even faster, Microjig has the Fitfinder 1/2 gauge that does this in seconds without removing any stock. It is $35 though, but performs as promised.
Great video. I use my tablesaw for the first reference ce as you do. However I then also set up my bandsaw and remove the wast for 1/2 lap and mostly for tenons. Thank you👍
I enjoy all of your videos and as one who pays monthly for no ads on TH-cam I tremendously appreciate you putithem at the end. I wish everyone did.
Another technique I've used is to use an offcut of the piece you plan to join. Rip it and then glue it back together. The rip takes out one kerf width, and the little bit of glue adds just the right amount of extra space.
That’s very clever. Thanks for the tip.
You are a great tutor
You made it look so easy and it really works so simple, make some and practice some to see how simple it can be for you. Thanks for sharing James, Stay safe and keep up the great videos. Fred.
Such an amazing tip James Thank you so much for sharing this. Definitely going to save this video.
Great info , thank you.
You have shown the shim method before. Thanks for Shim 2.0! That table is stunning.
Thank you for sharing, wonderful tip. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Thank you so much for the excellent tip! I can't wait to try it. 😃😃😃❤❤❤
Great idea! And I think a lot of people take half laps for granted. But, despite their relative simplicity they are a strong and pretty cool looking joint.
I don’t save many videos but I did save this one for future reference. Thanks James! 😎
Thanks, James! I learn so much from this channel!
Thank you!! Ordered a pair of earmuffs, and greatly apprec iate the half lap technique!
Now I need a project for this technique, can't wait!
Blade shim works great, every time I do them takes a little time to get my shim and remember how but it is simple 👍
Really good tips. Could you come out with another video going into a little more detail about cross block?
A good technique, James. Thank you for sharing.
Great tip. Thanks
Thanks James, love your videos and to help repay you for all the great content over the years I ordered some isotunes. 👍
Great video clear and concise
This is Awesome! I wish I knew this before I cut the 26 half laps I currently have in my garage staining.
Excellent
Thank you for that.
I have seen some expensive jigs for sale that use the same principle (not sure about center half laps), have been looking for a cheap solution
I'm not sure if you've covered this before or if it was somebody else, I've seen it and thanks for reminding me of it. I have a project to do that this tip will come in handy. Thanks Jim!
It is similar to the dado cutting technique i made a past video about.
That's pretty trick. Thanks.
Again, BOOM! learned something new. Thank you!!!!
Great tip, thanks as always.
One gripe I have about isotunes is the descriptions on their website. It’s really tough to differentiate between all the over the ear bud style options they offer. Not much can be learned from the product comparison feature.
This is nice and helps simplify tasks that I for sure was previously over complicating, but it would have been nice if you went a bit more into detail regarding the angled cuts. You mentioned it, the angle and such, but kind of just glossed over it. Given the video's purpose it's fine, just wish it was explained as that is newer information I would have liked to learn more sufficiently.
It's the same process, you just angle the miter gauge and cut the stop/shims to the same angle.
Wouldn't it be great if saw manufacturers gave you (or had available for sale) a metal shim exactly matching the blade's kerf?
You can also use a deck of cards with the same thickness as your blade as your shim.
Brilliant!
you just ended my frustration building these type joints Thanks again
Have you got a video on making a finger joint jig? Had a relative call to see if I have one, which I just haven't gotten around to making one, so after 3-4 tries, he went to the woodworking store to buy one. I may have to save this video, as the last time I made lap joints, I did not have a reason to call my friends and say come look at my wood joint.
I use isotunes 8 hours a day in a large guitar woodshop. The orange ones have too short a battery life. After one and a half days use they are empty. My previous 3M ones I would only charge once a week. Also, the comfort isn’t there with the orange ones for longtime use. Sore ears at the end of the day. When these give it up, I’m switching back to 3M
Bravo! Bookmarked
Mastery indeed.
Pretty smart tip
Awesome!
Lovely
🤔 this seems simple but still more complicated than using my skill saw set at the appropriate depth that's been my ideal way for years. Simply using the pieces themselves to mark width of the lap.
TopNotchTeaching🤙🏼
That's all very....think you should do a video to make shims which is the same thickness as the blade
Hi
If you were cutting the lap or dado by hand saw what would be you “tricky” approach?
3:36 “it couldn’t be simpler and it’s virtually impossible to screw up.” Immediately followed by a cut that doesn’t line up with the mark on the wood. 😂
The mark on the wood is a relatively rough line made by a wide pencil lead tracing along the edge of the wood. If you're a woodworker, you know what I am talking about. How it goes together is what matters, and it fits... This isn't the gotcha you think it is.
I wonder about the ISOtunes ads that appear. I own a oair of Sony bluetooth headphones that cover my ears and offer noise cancellation. These are over the ear phones.
When I turn on the noise cancellation I hear verry little sound.
At the same time, these sre excellent sounding headphones, in my opinion and rated as duch in reviews.
What advantage eould ISOtunes headphones offer over these?
I don't discount James' reciews and his desire to support family run businesses. But the frequency that James mentions ISOtunes makes me wonder if I am missing out somehow.
Any thoughts, woodworkers?
Can it really be as simple as you demonstrate? It sure looks as it is so. Would I doubt you? NO, not if I want to avoid the wrath of the You Tube gods! Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
After you discover all the ways to screw it up, it’s as easy as he shows. Just test on scraps a few times.
But how do you make the kerf shim?
High speed!
The link is not working for the isotunes discount.
I always m using half laps
I *just* bought a kerfmaker. 🤦♂️😆
I use half laps lottts
I don't suppose there is a nifty trick to getting a scrap that's the same thickness as the blade?
Cut it close, then sand it.
I just 3d print a shim block for each blade.
3:36 Your cut did not follow your layout line. Looks to be a 64th too wide.
When YT spawned and I saw the thumbnail top, I somehow knew it was you blue.
Forget the shim. Just move your stop block!
You can move the stop after you use the shim to offset the first workpiece, but you still need the shim at least for that.
🖖
There is no need for your shim....Just mark the kerf of on your sled and align your marks with your piece. Plus in your first cut you were 1/16th off....maybe a 32nd. You usually have great tips, just not seeing how this is one.
I"m sure you know better but you said suggested something dangerous, "you can use your saw's rip fence as a stop block". I guess when you put the shim against it and then slide the miter gauge forward you leave a gap, just don't want people to think you can use the rip fence with the miter gauge normally.
"Exactly". You keep using that word... I do not think it means what you think it means. ;)
So exactly what is your point.🤷🏼♂️🤪 (By the way he only said exactly approximately 3 times by my count)
First
Third
@@CrazyManwichuh, Second?