Chevy 5.3 knock sensor relocation experiment.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- Giving it a try. Relocating my knock sensors, let's see if it works for me. If not, intake comes off. It cost less than 5 dollars for the all thread and coupler, and 15 minutes work. Why not?
Update on my 2003 chevrolet avalanche 5.3 vortec engine. I did everything you said and it worked I finally passed smog. Thank you
fuck smog
I did this with the exception of placing it on the threaded hole just under the red fuse box in your video because its further from the exhaust manifold there and I placed the one on the passenger side in a pre threaded hole on the front of the head. I also replaced the harness and it works just fine. As you said Chevy now places them on the side of the block or head in later models most likely because of the complaints about stupid engineering.
I watched your video and replaced the knock sensors in my 06 Chevy Silverado. It worked!! Thank you for posting this video! It saved over 500 $ that the local shops wanted to charge to fixed it. Looking forward to more videos
Thanks for the comments. I got the idea from others on TH-cam and posted my video when I did mine. I say this alot. I am not a professional mechanic. But I like to work on my own stuff. I am all about my Bronco right now. Sometime soon I need to pull the trans in the Tahoe and do the rear main seal. Thanks for watching..
After two years, how has it held up? Heat or placement shown to be any issues, how about dirt and debris?
I too bought new ac delco knock sensors and wire harness. I took my intake out and replaced both sensors and installed the new harness with high heat silicone. Ran great no more check engine light.
About a month later check engine light again. I bought two more ac delco sensors and put them on the passenger front head and driver rear head with another new harness.
About six months later the check engine light came back on for the sensor on passenger front head. So I connected the driver head and the rear sensor under the intake manifold and everything is working fine now for about 3 months. Go figure 🤷♂️🤷♂️
I think there’s an issue if you mount the sensors too close together as well they might be too sensitive in recognizing knock noises thus they will make the check light come on if for example you mount both on one cylinder head close together
I changed mine over to this method almost a year ago and I have not had any problems with it whatsoever
placed the one on the passenger side in a pre threaded hole on the front of the head wire both wires together run one to passenger side knock sensor it works great
Been thinking about trying this and after watching this I’m so excited to try it!
I used a Dorman harness. Just had to separate wires the were taped together. This worked on my application. I have seen others where plug is in different location .
My doc Central light finally came on in a 2003 avalanche with 240000 miles. Mechanics that keep on driving. It is fine.
I took my Intake off twice and still got bad codes, in other words don’t waste your time this will work. 😊
I’m doing this tomorrow asap ! Thank you for the knowledge 🤙💪
What's the extension piece you used on the driver side?
Thank you I’m going to attempt this. I just had check engine code go off last week.
My factory location for knock sensors under the intake. However I’m taking a 5.3 aluminum block and building it for boost but the knock sensors are on the bottom of the block. I will most likely go this route! Cheers 🍻
I understand that after the reset and install , you have to rev the engine to 5k for about 30 sec. 2 or 3 times. It does something to the computer supposedly
I do not know. I have not heard that. I am not a professional mechanic or you tuber. The research I did before doing this did not say to do the revs. I have experienced zero problems since I did mine. Good luck.
@@2lotony good to know it worked for you. Thanks for responding. Doing mine this week.
@@theofficialdiamondlou2418 hey did the reset actually work? I did my knock sensors and put the RTV around the gaskets. I did this twice since the check engine light came back on and revived the same code.
@@jcool1537 I’m not sure yet. I did 200 miles with no code. Then this morning within five mins I got a light. I haven’t had it read yet. But I’m sure it’s going to be it. I’ll keep y’all informed as I learn more.
@@theofficialdiamondlou2418 thank you
Good video, is the relocation still working??? and recover power the truck??
Doing this will fix your light and run fine.... but say a coil goes out.... it will pick a miss and it will tell you a witch cylinder is missing but it wont be that cylinder......
I wonder why when you replace them and put them in the valley they don't work, yet when you replace them and put them on the sides the code doesn't come back?
Best idea for that repair easy ,clean threads well retap 10 mmruns great no codes
I actually made a video and posted it on TH-cam and it's helped a few people on how to remove knock sensors when the top spins in the body. It's the first I'm seeing about relocating them and I will definitely do that at some point in the near future
The main reason for doing this experiment is I did not want to remove me intake.
Oh, believe me, I get it.
I went through the whole process 3 times.
If I had known about this then... It wouldn't have been even once.
Where did you find the fitting for the drivers side. I've looked everywhere
I found mine at my local True Value hardware store.
Best of luck.
What exactly is the kind of adapter that you bought mine is doing the same thing? Is it just a piece of 1/4 inch pipe with a coupler on the end of that to adapt the knock sensor on driver side
About ready to try this method just for S&G's after having replaced both knock sensors and the pigtail three times to no avail (swapped out the 5 3L LM7 for my current 6L LQ4, but KS issue didn't start until 2 yrs after that swap). At this point I can do the job in 90 minutes with my eyes closed, but both codes always return after the drive cycle completes. No performance issues, so tells me the issue is somewhere in the main harness between the KS pigtail connector and the computer.
Keith, is it possible it is the computer?
What size bolt extension was used?
When you added extra wire to lengthen the passenger side to reach the engine what wire did you use?
I did not add wire. I used the Dorman harness and just separated the wires to get them to go where I needed.
great explanation, what size are the sensor spacers or how are they ordered online?
I wish I could tell you, it been so long now. I took sensor with me to True value and put it all together there.
@@2lotony the video dose not show where you relocated them too
@@miguelceja9038
53 seconds in to about 1min 7 sec shows where sensors were relocated to.
@@2lotony ok thanks
Will this work on a 2003 yukon denali ? One knock sensor broke and i damage the whole and dont know what to do. I will try this
It will. Plus if you really want to they make a valley cover with the knock sensor delete. That way you can remove the old sensors. Relocate the new sensors and completely cover the area between the heads.
Honestly i took the whole dam intake off when it could of been placed next to the fender inside the engine bay with a fabricated piece of metal its crazy frustrating
Did you have to reset the check engine light or did it go off on its own
On my vehicle I had to have the check engine light reset. Seems like its a hard code that will not do it on its own.
@@2lotony thanks. I just did that . Going on test drive see what happens.
How come you didnt make use of the second threaded hole above the first one? Talking about the passenger side. I did mine last week and not getting a check engine light now. I put mine in hand tight.
I watched a video on how to do it as well. I wanted to keep one on each side. They still work just in a different location. I have even seen where they wired both to one sensor. This is just they way I did it.
@@2lotony I suspect these old motors are just too noisy for the knock sensors. I replaced mine the correct way and that didnt work so decided this path was better. Now to figure out why I keep getting the ABS and BRAKE alarm. I know the wheel sensors have been replaced with new hubs so that aint the problem. Suspecting ground issues.
@@rogermerritt6470 it's the abs control under the driver seat.
Watch some videos & did it.
Works very well
@rogermerritt6470 solder on the ABS module becomes brittle and you end up with a poor connection. You can pull the module and pay for it to be rebuilt. Usually under $140. Or do it at home for almost free.
The harness was long enough or did you add extra wiring ?
Harness long enough, just separate wires.
@@2lotony thanks for the reply. I took care of this a few days ago about 150 miles so far id say. All is good at the moment!
Where did u buy the adapter?? Literally cannot find one anywhere
At my local True Value Hardware
Yeah I couldn't find the adapter either. Here in San Antonio I went to the True Value, Lowes, Home Depot and took the knock sensor in to see if anything would thread into it and wasn't successful.
Coupling nut and a bolt I'd what I used, cut the head off bolt made it into a stud and used the coupling nut to connect to sensor
Where did you buy the harness?
Honestly can't remember. Online. Autozone, ebay, and Amazon are my go to places.
People have been relocating these knock sensor on about every make and model,screw engineers
I was looking on your Channel about the relocation of the knock sensor and the follow-up video
There are 3 update videos on my channel. Not sure why you can't find them.
@@2lotony I i don't but I looked and didn't see them
th-cam.com/video/c6defy4xmyo/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/c6defy4xmyo/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/yRgtKGgGi0k/w-d-xo.html
Any updates in 2024?
Still running strong!
Thanks, I just did it yesterday. It'll take 1 or 2 days to complete the drive cycle. I hope it's good. The KS go out every two years!@@2lotony
@@2lotony Mod done 2 days ago.. still no CEL! Thanks for the info.
I also found thru my research that you can use only one sensor , and connect both wires to it. This tricks the computer into thinking both sensors are working. Saves another $50.
Good luck all.
I have tried that. It made it have a really bad spark knock that I didn’t have with just one not working before. I don’t recommend putting both wires to one. Went away after I put the wires back.
@@buttonysquare8501 I’ve had no issues or codes in a year.
Were can i find the knock sensor adapter that mounts on the side of block
I just went down to the local hardware store and picked up a stud and a threaded collar. Took my sensor with me to make sure thread and pitch was correct.
2lotony thanks i was just about to go to my local ace hardware store to see if they had em if im not wrong the size is m10 x1.5 Looking to get this done this wknd
@@bajapanta1
That sounds correct. I will be posting an update soon since I have been driving around and putting some miles on my vehicle. No issues so far.
What's going on so far
@@olivares32688
So far no problems, I am going to post an update at 1000 miles, I am at 650 miles now.
Where'd you get your adapter at for the knock sensor on the driver side
Hardware store