Good news. My Sons just used the truck to tow a 2 ton boat from Mass. To South Caroline in June. No problems with knock sensor or engine performance. Transmission crapped out, but thats a different issue entirely. I stand behind this solution 100% at this point. Truck now has 157k mile on it. At least 10k miles since I did this.
Good news. I just completed a midsummer trip to western Colorado. Over 4K miles of hot weather driving. Engine ran perfectly. No knocking and no engine codes. I used 87 octane gas for the whole trip. Drove her up to 10,000 feet of altitude.
Fantastic video. I 2003 GMC Sierra 1500 4.8. Threw a 0332 Code which was Bank 2 knock sensor. Watched other videos and was sweating removing the top of my engine to get to this. Came across your video because I just knew somebody was smart enough to troubleshoot and do a DIY fix. You did it. I tested both and bank 1 was 99,000 ohms and bank 2 was round 1000. Stripped the insulation, cut the greenish wire (bank 2) and spliced as you described. Retested and both sides of the plug is 99,000 ohms. Cleared the code. I have now driven about 100 miles after this fix and no pending codes and no engine light. You sir are a genius. Thank you for sharing your fix.
First off, thank you!! I was concerned that bringing the two knock sensor circuits from the ECM together could damage the ECM but after seeing you had long term success with this I bit the bullet and did mine today. Cleared the code and so far it hasn't returned and all is working well. Update: I've been thinking about why bringing the two wires together does no harm, it finally sunk in I think, I believe there is no output from the ECM on these circuits at all, they are simply listening for an output from the knock sensors. The knock sensors being a "piezo" device need no input, they generate an output from the vibrations (noise) that they pick up. Now I can sleep easier, lol. Thanks again, I owe you a beer! :) (2007 Gmc 2500HD Classic 6.0L Gas)
Sir you are a genius.. rewired sensor just as you instructed truck is running wonderful no more spark knock and no more trouble code. Have driven 150 MI so far. Thank you so much
@samwashburn Thank you very much for posting this video. I did NOT want to remove the intake manifold, etc. as I simply don't have the time right now. I completed this operation on my 2001 Tahoe (5.3L) last night, and have not had the check engine light since come on since I got done. I got the P0327 code, so I operated under the assumption that my bank #1 sensor was out. I re-routed the blue wire (coming from the female "connection clip" to the green one. This is the opposite of what you did (bank #2 code), but it still worked like a charm. I cut both the green and blue wires about 1.5" from the beginning of the female connector, combined both wires into a 2-to-1 pre-soldered wire connector, then connected the green wire which lead from the sensor. I crimped all my connections, and wrapped everything up in electrical tape for additional stability. I did a minimal amount of heat on the connector (pre-soldered) after crimping, and am hoping the heat from the engine will finish the soldering that came in the wire connectors.
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!! I've been dreading doing the sensor replacement. Been driving with check engine light on for a year. Emissions inspection is this month. You just saved me from an awful expense. Thank you again. Mike
@@88chargerI too live in commiefornia and need to smog it in a few weeks but being in a cast from recent tfcc repair and wrist surgery I can't replace the parts as I did before. What made it fail? Did the smog machine label it "tampered" or did the smog tech see the bypass and not pass it?
Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video, had this happen on my 2007 6.0 yesterday morning, came home watched this video, went outside cut the wires, took it for a drive and after about 15 miles or so the light went off and everybody is happy, you saved me a bunch of time and money whole process took 5 minutes maybe
Great video it showed me how to save a ton of money i took my trailblazer to get a inspection and it failed the inspection so i did the bypass like you said and no more problems and it passed inspection thanks for this great video...
After a day and a half of no luck removing bank 2’s frozen knock sensor, I think you’ve saved me! Of course I’ve got to reinstall the intake and all wire harness’s etc etc. I’ll get back to you on the results
You're the answer to my problems. I have an '01 Chevy 1500 Z71 and an '06 Chevy 2500 4x4 and BOTH of them have the exact same issue!! I'm sick and tired of clearing that darned DTC code!! Thank you for your clear and explicit instructions without all the extra BS alot of these other DIY TH-cam videos have!!
lol yup my 2002 escalade after briefly over taking a car or just doing a brief spirited shot on the road makes my p0332 pop up. then i gotta pull over somewhere and reset it with my scan tool too.. lol glad i wasnt the only one doing this. Im gonna try this method. I love my escalade!
Thank you for the video! I was planning on changing mine out this weekend and was on here looking for a how-to video when I ran across yours! Figured it couldn’t hurt to try before taking the intake off. Worked like a charm!
@@pacificxnative8818 worked for about 2 weeks then it quit. Ended up having to change them. It did buy me some time though. It’s actually pretty easy too.
Thank you very much. I did this fix this morning. Unbelievable the loss of power I was experiencing over the last 2 days. I would clear the codes and keep my truck under 2500rpms. The minute I had to accelerate any faster it would throw the codes again. I confirmed resistance (35ohms)on bank 2 sensor. And spliced it into bank 1 (104kohms) sensor. I will repair these correctly soon. But this buys me time to get the parts and do it myself. The ECM should have a electronic filter to electronically recognize this. I pulled spark plugs to make sure everything looked great.
Worked like a charM!! Only modification I made was to the small replaceable knock sensor harness itself. Just chopped it in 2 a couple of inches from the single connector, tied green and blue together in one end of a butt slice connector and the bank one Blue wire to the opposite end. abandoning the green Bank 2 ks wire( my code called no.2 bad) so its easily done and undone if needed. Glad I found your video and thanks!
Sam...thank you, thank you. I've been staring at the engine for almost a week now hoping it would simply fix itself. The thought of pulling the intake off sends shivers up my spine, not that I couldn't do it but rather I simply don't want to. Mechanic quoted $1200 and I figure it this way; if I can fix it for say $100 I will use the remaining $1100 on fishing lures. 😋 on the serious side, I purchased the parts and noticed the new wiring harness is the opposite of what you showed. The harness is the female side and had that little metal clip to mount it like the old one. The male side runs over the top of the manifold and is included in a large bundle if wires down the firewall. I'm pretty sure I know the answer but was hoping you had received other inquiries regarding the same, or other viewers would chime in if they had the same setup. I figure I'll hold onto the new parts in the case I have to go all the way to replace them but sure like your method. Again I'm 99% sure but like my dad always told me "measure twice and cut once."
What your describing is the same as on my truck and the same as shown in the diagram in my video. My solution should work for you. Sorry for the late reply.
Hi Johnny I was confused on his drawling, because he has bank two in the front and bank one in the back and I thought it was the other way around could you clarify? And I don’t use an ohm meter very much, is there a way you can tell me where to set the dial. Thanks. 🤝
Thank you Mr. Washburn for a terrific solution to a time and money heavy problem. I had a stroke a while back and can no longer do a lot of things I used to, but can swing messing with a few wires. And being on disability, certainly cannot afford a shop, so your solution knocks both of these out of the park so thanks again! Hit a curious bit though- am showing the good ol' 332 code, but in checking the resistance, one shows 99k and the other 104k, well within range for each, so I thought I'd see what your thoughts were.
The 332 code is saying that the ECM does not like one of the sensors. I believe it want to see the resistance varying as the sensor heats up. Just follow the steps in my video and the code should disappear. Your one working knock sensor will do the work of both without a problem. Let me know how it goes. Sorry to hear about the stroke, but glad ur able to stay active.
Thanks Sam. It worked as it should. Tricked the computer fair and square. LOL I also made a video and referenced your videos as well. I have all new parts coming. Going to replace everything I can while I have the intake manifold off. But in the meantime, truck is running without the engine light coming on. Thanks again.
Thank you for the simple, easy to understand, reasoning and fix. When my knock sensor (bank 2) failed the first time, local dealer wanted $1,200 to fix. That's understandable (but not acceptable) considering location of sensor and common dealer hourly shop rates. They quoted 4 hours to fix. I took 12 hours but cleaned all removed parts (intake, injectors, fuel rail, etc). The problem as you mentioned, was a bad hood weatherstripping causing rain or washing water to run down back side of engine, fill the knock sensor well and short out the sensor (or break the circuit if you will). I just got a fault reading again on the same sensor and was not looking forward to another top end redo.
Glad it worked. Just keep the engine tuned and clean and you’ll be fine with one or zero knock sensors. I’ve been putting a lot of miles on my Silverado this year. Running like new.
@@SoaringMech I did this fix exactly how you described and wife just texted me saying the light is back on! Super bummed because this has been a nightmare dealing with the shop I bought my truck from. I haven't double checked my wire connections but I soldered them so I doubt they're bad. My question is, is there anything else that can cause this code to come back on??
@@SoaringMech Sam, thank you for your reply. This is what I get for watching the video at different times. Bank 1 has failed on my truck and I just rewatched this and realized your truck was bank 2! Just switched the wires and I should be good now I'm hoping 😂. Now I wonder if the light will turn itself off or if I should just reset it anyway..
Thank you Mr. Sam! You sure made my day and made it possible for my family to take a vacation. Your modification got me running without worry! Will look at the system when I get home!
I just changed mine before I discovered this video. It REALLY wasn't hard to change them out if you're considering doing it. All you need is an 8 mm, 10mm, and a 22 mm socket plus a few extensions. It's time consuming (about 2 hours if you take your time) but its pretty straightforward. That being said if these sensors mess up I will do this fix! This code will cause a significant loss of power and horrible gas mileage from the computer being confused. Thanks for the vid!
Good luck, sounds crazy but over 50% of these new knock sensors are bad from factory. This is a good method but if u don’t want to cut your wiring, unplug from knock sensor, plug in wiring harness, buy the knock sensors and wiring kit, plug new knock sensor harness into knock sensor lug in harness that your originals were plugged in and run one knock sensor or left head and one to right head, or bank one, bank two, screw knock sensors into bolt holes anywhere on head you can get it easily., clear codes and drive. If it happens again it’s a 15 min fix without any cutting or splicing, and dang sure without having to take intake off.
Thank you very much sir, I've done this before on a different vehicle but didn't know exactly how the knock sensors communicate with the ECU. After seeing your video and reading a few comments I now know, same type of crystal that's in a clicker lighter, smack it with an out of tune frequency and it's gonna spark that check engine light.
When reading those codes it's important to differentiate a knock sensor fault from a knock sensor circuit fault. Circuit is an important word because it's telling you the fault can be anywhere in the entire circuit including the wires the connectors or the knock sensors. This is true on other codes as well. It's easy to focus on the component but it's necessary to troubleshoot the entire circuit.
If you get these codes it's more than likely going to be the sensor. The rubber gaskets harden up and shrink allowing moisture to get in and corrode the piss out of the sensor. There's a gm bulletin out for these sensors, the solution is RTV the hell out of it. Also, the job is not that hard to do at home. Very simple, the only special tools you will need is the tool to disconnect the fuel lines and an inch pound torque wrench to torque the intake manifold back on.
@@shadowopsairman1583 I seriously doubt it. TSB 02-06-04-023A was released in 2002 yet the same knock sensors are interchangeable between an array of different makes and models and engines between 1999-2007. It doesn't matter if they improved water intrusion around the valley plate, that knock sensor gasket will still shrink up over time. Humid air can corrode the sensor, it doesn't necessarily need to be water.
Thank You Sir.Need to get truck inspected and wont have time to replace knock sensors for a few weeks.Your bypass option is real straight forward and very doable.Than You very very much for you time and tutorial.
The fix worked on my 02 Chevy 2500 hd 6.0. I did use the ohm meter to verify that the 332 code so that I connected the wires to the good sensor and not the bad. I also used a two wire crimp connector (Available at any auto parts store and it is "on the shelf" in the electrical aisle . Box of 4 was $2.49) instead of the wire nut. Took me almost 10 mins. to do it and it saved me hundreds in repairs!
This worked great, I actually got 2 connectors w wire on each end from the junkyard . Took a Female socket w wires attached , taped off the blue and attached the green to both green and blue wires attached to a male socket then just added added it to existing , Factory wires are uncut and new piece is less than 6" and tucks out of the way
See my response to other comments about how to make sure your engine doesn’t knock. cheap to do. With just one sensor working now you want be sure she does not knock.
This really works, i have a 04 ls extended cab 2wd and just did this a week ago. There are no knock sensor codes since. if you're on the fence, do it. It works.
You’re the best, just got new manifold gaskets 2 days before knock sensor code came up (didn’t replace them at the same time like an idiot) and this bypass took 10 min and solved my P0332
So glad too hear it worked for you. Mine is still going strong after more than two years and 20k miles. Running like new. We have verified that the knock sensors are redundant so you only need one working one.
Game brother. That's so simple. I have been struggling with how to fix this problem for two years. Thank you. Yes it would be better to replace the sensor but now at least if the light comes on I'll know something else is wrong as before as before I just ignored the light so this is better than that. Thanks again. Good through video.
See my response to other comments about how to make sure your engine doesn’t knock. cheap to do. With just one sensor working now you want be sure she does not knock.
Man O man you rock!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My truck is burning rubber and even better is actually wanting to haul my trailer!! 😀 we need this man for president!
I have a 2001 Yukon XL. From the day a bought it, I have had an intermittent check engine light. Sometimes it would go off for a long time, sometimes I would cancel. One thing I did notice is that everytime I installed a new battery, the light would go off, leading me to believe there was some kind of a low voltage issue with the sensors. Anyways, I was getting ready to install new knock sensors, which I wasn't all that keen on doing. I did one last Google search and saw your solution. Bingo!! I knew that was my answer. Being a retired electrician, I realized that it was an excellent and simple solution. It's been 3 days now and no check light. I know it saved me $200 if I replaced the sensors or @$800 if my mechanic did it. Thanks Sam, very much Tom
@@SoaringMech Had a code 332, I've already read your tips on making sure the engine doesn't knock. I'm right on top of that, as the Yukon only is used about 3 months a year, but important 3 months. It brings us from snowy NH before it get real bad (snow) to coastal GA in shorts. The last thing I want is issues. Where are you from Sam? When you're outside in your video, it looks like the northeast? Great money saving tip and I love saving money! Tom
Michael Smith when you say you tried everything did you actually replace the bad knock sensor and harness? I’m just wondering...not trying to be a smart ass 😁
Thanks so much!! I did this after replacing both knock sensors, 2 months later P0327 came back. I sure didnt want to have to pay a mechanic to do this again so I took this short cut, problem solved. 2004, 4.8 has power again and the wife is happy once more!
this video couldn't of come at a better time. I'm getting a p0332 code usually in the mornings when i accelerate spiritedly for a brief moment it pops up, then i just reset it with my scan tool and everything is fine. I think I'm gonna do this too. On my 2002 Escalade AWD 6.0.. cause man some days my truck drives fast then a bout 2 months later the p0332 code comes back. lol ill deff try this out
Unfortunately this bypass didn't work me. I replaced both sensors and the harness with RTV in my driveway. Took about 3 hours. I had the rear sensor (p0327) fail and the forward sensor as a pending fault. I appreciate you taking the time to post a temporary solution to this all too common issue.
What a great tip, although after paying local tech $800 to replace the sensors (along with replacing plugs and wires) on my 2012 GMC. Took my truck back twice after the fix and the light still returns. He's stated that he will use more expensive OEM parts if the problem returns. However, the inconvenience is tempting me to do this fix myself. I assume that if both knock sensors are bad, this fix won't work. Thank You.
Great video! My brother and I planing on replacing them on his truck this weekend. I'm going to suggest, we bypass them. It will saved us a lot of time and a little bit of money too. We can definitely use that money to buy beer instead. Lol! Thank you sir.
Very helpful thank you I have a 2005 6.0 it is doing the exact thing you are talking about I will try this today It will save me $2000 from the dealer thank you
I finally got around and bypass my knock sensor on my Chevy truck as of today seems to be working perfectly fine I do appreciate your knowledge And you sharing it with people thank you again
So it all makes sense and no more codes - great idea. I found you because I ran a search, "can u run the engine without working knock sensors". So it begs the question, should you run your engine with only one knock sensor? Can u damage your engine.
Nevermind I read your other responses. I treat this engine with sever care. It runs better now then it did when I bought it 200k miles ago. I tow nothing with it and not worried about knocking at all. Seafoam in the oil from time to time, sprayed into throttle body as well and in the gas tank. Plugs and wires are done every 50k miles. They are perfect. No issues. Runs perfect. Will be doing this fix in short order. Thanks again. Will follow through with your fix and move on with life.
I'm going to try this u just paid a lot of money to have both knock sensors replaced and a few months later code came back . And it was fun at a GM dealership
Very clever and for all u saying it’s bad come on now if u can’t tell a difference in ur engine when it comes to knocking and YIUR counting on a sensor to inform you go trade in for a Prius
This is a 45min job. I did one yesterday, and 2 weeks ago. One fuel line, i vacuum hose, unplug all the injectors, remove intake, the rest is fairly self explanatory. 2hrs at most if u have to watch or read instructions while doing it. I did it in 45min while having full blown conversation with the owner of the vehicle.
Good news. My Sons just used the truck to tow a 2 ton boat from Mass. To South Caroline in June. No problems with knock sensor or engine performance. Transmission crapped out, but thats a different issue entirely. I stand behind this solution 100% at this point. Truck now has 157k mile on it. At least 10k miles since I did this.
The transmission failing on a Chevy certainly does NOT surprise me, the fact it even made it to 157k miles DOES! 😳😂
Good news. I just completed a midsummer trip to western Colorado. Over 4K miles of hot weather driving. Engine ran perfectly. No knocking and no engine codes. I used 87 octane gas for the whole trip. Drove her up to 10,000 feet of altitude.
Fantastic video. I 2003 GMC Sierra 1500 4.8. Threw a 0332 Code which was Bank 2 knock sensor. Watched other videos and was sweating removing the top of my engine to get to this. Came across your video because I just knew somebody was smart enough to troubleshoot and do a DIY fix. You did it. I tested both and bank 1 was 99,000 ohms and bank 2 was round 1000. Stripped the insulation, cut the greenish wire (bank 2) and spliced as you described. Retested and both sides of the plug is 99,000 ohms. Cleared the code. I have now driven about 100 miles after this fix and no pending codes and no engine light. You sir are a genius. Thank you for sharing your fix.
First off, thank you!! I was concerned that bringing the two knock sensor circuits from the ECM together could damage the ECM but after seeing you had long term success with this I bit the bullet and did mine today. Cleared the code and so far it hasn't returned and all is working well. Update: I've been thinking about why bringing the two wires together does no harm, it finally sunk in I think, I believe there is no output from the ECM on these circuits at all, they are simply listening for an output from the knock sensors. The knock sensors being a "piezo" device need no input, they generate an output from the vibrations (noise) that they pick up. Now I can sleep easier, lol. Thanks again, I owe you a beer! :)
(2007 Gmc 2500HD Classic 6.0L Gas)
Awesome response. I was thinking the same thing about the voltage or feedback, but that makes perfect sense..
That or else there always sending the proper amount of ohms and when that ohm load goes out of range it fires the check engine light
I'm about to try it
Let me tell you something Sir, you are a genius
Sir you are a genius.. rewired sensor just as you instructed truck is running wonderful no more spark knock and no more trouble code. Have driven 150 MI so far. Thank you so much
How yo did my light came back on
@@luiscortez1624 did you figure it out because my light came back on too
@samwashburn Thank you very much for posting this video. I did NOT want to remove the intake manifold, etc. as I simply don't have the time right now. I completed this operation on my 2001 Tahoe (5.3L) last night, and have not had the check engine light since come on since I got done. I got the P0327 code, so I operated under the assumption that my bank #1 sensor was out. I re-routed the blue wire (coming from the female "connection clip" to the green one. This is the opposite of what you did (bank #2 code), but it still worked like a charm. I cut both the green and blue wires about 1.5" from the beginning of the female connector, combined both wires into a 2-to-1 pre-soldered wire connector, then connected the green wire which lead from the sensor. I crimped all my connections, and wrapped everything up in electrical tape for additional stability. I did a minimal amount of heat on the connector (pre-soldered) after crimping, and am hoping the heat from the engine will finish the soldering that came in the wire connectors.
Very informative video. It definitely repaired my knock sensor issue
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!! I've been dreading doing the sensor replacement. Been driving with check engine light on for a year. Emissions inspection is this month. You just saved me from an awful expense. Thank you again. Mike
Your welcome. Let me know how it goes. My Silverado is still fine after 9 months. Leaving on road trip with it on Friday.
yes yes yes you saved me also thank you Sir do you think it will pass a state emissions test like this
if you live in California, it will fail. Mine did. Tampered.
@@88chargerI too live in commiefornia and need to smog it in a few weeks but being in a cast from recent tfcc repair and wrist surgery I can't replace the parts as I did before. What made it fail? Did the smog machine label it "tampered" or did the smog tech see the bypass and not pass it?
Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video, had this happen on my 2007 6.0 yesterday morning, came home watched this video, went outside cut the wires, took it for a drive and after about 15 miles or so the light went off and everybody is happy, you saved me a bunch of time and money whole process took 5 minutes maybe
Great video it showed me how to save a ton of money i took my trailblazer to get a inspection and it failed the inspection so i did the bypass like you said and no more problems and it passed inspection thanks for this great video...
After a day and a half of no luck removing bank 2’s frozen knock sensor, I think you’ve saved me! Of course I’ve got to reinstall the intake and all wire harness’s etc etc. I’ll get back to you on the results
Update
Worked perfectly after a day engine light off runs better then before ready for state inspection
Thank you
You're the answer to my problems. I have an '01 Chevy 1500 Z71 and an '06 Chevy 2500 4x4 and BOTH of them have the exact same issue!! I'm sick and tired of clearing that darned DTC code!! Thank you for your clear and explicit instructions without all the extra BS alot of these other DIY TH-cam videos have!!
lol yup my 2002 escalade after briefly over taking a car or just doing a brief spirited shot on the road makes my p0332 pop up. then i gotta pull over somewhere and reset it with my scan tool too.. lol glad i wasnt the only one doing this. Im gonna try this method. I love my escalade!
Here's another "Thank YOU!", Sam. I hope you're doing well and seeing these from all the people you helped save so much money.
Glad it was helpful to you. Many people have sent me thoughtful messages.
Thank you for the video! I was planning on changing mine out this weekend and was on here looking for a how-to video when I ran across yours! Figured it couldn’t hurt to try before taking the intake off. Worked like a charm!
This really works?
@@pacificxnative8818 worked for about 2 weeks then it quit. Ended up having to change them. It did buy me some time though. It’s actually pretty easy too.
Thank you very much. I did this fix this morning. Unbelievable the loss of power I was experiencing over the last 2 days. I would clear the codes and keep my truck under 2500rpms. The minute I had to accelerate any faster it would throw the codes again. I confirmed resistance (35ohms)on bank 2 sensor. And spliced it into bank 1 (104kohms) sensor. I will repair these correctly soon. But this buys me time to get the parts and do it myself. The ECM should have a electronic filter to electronically recognize this. I pulled spark plugs to make sure everything looked great.
Excellent information thank you
Worked like a charM!! Only modification I made was to the small replaceable knock sensor harness itself. Just chopped it in 2 a couple of inches from the single connector, tied green and blue together in one end of a butt slice connector and the bank one Blue wire to the opposite end. abandoning the green Bank 2 ks wire( my code called no.2 bad) so its easily done and undone if needed. Glad I found your video and thanks!
How you did it so you dont plug back together the green wire
Sam...thank you, thank you. I've been staring at the engine for almost a week now hoping it would simply fix itself. The thought of pulling the intake off sends shivers up my spine, not that I couldn't do it but rather I simply don't want to. Mechanic quoted $1200 and I figure it this way; if I can fix it for say $100 I will use the remaining $1100 on fishing lures. 😋 on the serious side, I purchased the parts and noticed the new wiring harness is the opposite of what you showed. The harness is the female side and had that little metal clip to mount it like the old one.
The male side runs over the top of the manifold and is included in a large bundle if wires down the firewall.
I'm pretty sure I know the answer but was hoping you had received other inquiries regarding the same, or other viewers would chime in if they had the same setup.
I figure I'll hold onto the new parts in the case I have to go all the way to replace them but sure like your method.
Again I'm 99% sure but like my dad always told me "measure twice and cut once."
What your describing is the same as on my truck and the same as shown in the diagram in my video. My solution should work for you. Sorry for the late reply.
Thank you sir! I rewired my 2004 Suburban 5.3, 250k miles as you showed and works perfectly!! Thank you again!
Hi Johnny I was confused on his drawling, because he has bank two in the front and bank one in the back and I thought it was the other way around could you clarify? And I don’t use an ohm meter very much, is there a way you can tell me where to set the dial. Thanks. 🤝
Thank you Mr. Washburn for a terrific solution to a time and money heavy problem. I had a stroke a while back and can no longer do a lot of things I used to, but can swing messing with a few wires. And being on disability, certainly cannot afford a shop, so your solution knocks both of these out of the park so thanks again! Hit a curious bit though- am showing the good ol' 332 code, but in checking the resistance, one shows 99k and the other 104k, well within range for each, so I thought I'd see what your thoughts were.
The 332 code is saying that the ECM does not like one of the sensors. I believe it want to see the resistance varying as the sensor heats up. Just follow the steps in my video and the code should disappear. Your one working knock sensor will do the work of both without a problem. Let me know how it goes. Sorry to hear about the stroke, but glad ur able to stay active.
Thank you. It worked. Saved me lots of time and money. Very excellent solution.
Thanks Sam. It worked as it should. Tricked the computer fair and square. LOL I also made a video and referenced your videos as well. I have all new parts coming. Going to replace everything I can while I have the intake manifold off. But in the meantime, truck is running without the engine light coming on. Thanks again.
Thank you for the simple, easy to understand, reasoning and fix. When my knock sensor (bank 2) failed the first time, local dealer wanted $1,200 to fix. That's understandable (but not acceptable) considering location of sensor and common dealer hourly shop rates. They quoted 4 hours to fix. I took 12 hours but cleaned all removed parts (intake, injectors, fuel rail, etc). The problem as you mentioned, was a bad hood weatherstripping causing rain or washing water to run down back side of engine, fill the knock sensor well and short out the sensor (or break the circuit if you will). I just got a fault reading again on the same sensor and was not looking forward to another top end redo.
Glad it worked. Just keep the engine tuned and clean and you’ll be fine with one or zero knock sensors. I’ve been putting a lot of miles on my Silverado this year. Running like new.
I’m up to 20k miles now. Engine runs perfect
@@SoaringMech I did this fix exactly how you described and wife just texted me saying the light is back on! Super bummed because this has been a nightmare dealing with the shop I bought my truck from. I haven't double checked my wire connections but I soldered them so I doubt they're bad. My question is, is there anything else that can cause this code to come back on??
@@Primal_Dad_Truther which bank has failed this time?
@@SoaringMech Sam, thank you for your reply. This is what I get for watching the video at different times. Bank 1 has failed on my truck and I just rewatched this and realized your truck was bank 2! Just switched the wires and I should be good now I'm hoping 😂. Now I wonder if the light will turn itself off or if I should just reset it anyway..
Thank you Mr. Sam! You sure made my day and made it possible for my family to take a vacation. Your modification got me running without worry! Will look at the system when I get home!
Glad it helped
OMG!You safe my life,time ,nerves!!!!God Bless You Man!!!!
WORKING well so far, thx.
Thank you for the video! I'll be trying this tomorrow
The definition of a true hero 👏knowledge is power.
Thank you sir 🙏
I just changed mine before I discovered this video. It REALLY wasn't hard to change them out if you're considering doing it. All you need is an 8 mm, 10mm, and a 22 mm socket plus a few extensions. It's time consuming (about 2 hours if you take your time) but its pretty straightforward. That being said if these sensors mess up I will do this fix! This code will cause a significant loss of power and horrible gas mileage from the computer being confused. Thanks for the vid!
Good luck, sounds crazy but over 50% of these new knock sensors are bad from factory.
This is a good method but if u don’t want to cut your wiring, unplug from knock sensor, plug in wiring harness, buy the knock sensors and wiring kit, plug new knock sensor harness into knock sensor lug in harness that your originals were plugged in and run one knock sensor or left head and one to right head, or bank one, bank two, screw knock sensors into bolt holes anywhere on head you can get it easily., clear codes and drive. If it happens again it’s a 15 min fix without any cutting or splicing, and dang sure without having to take intake off.
This works long term? Plugging knock sensors into the heads?
@@jacksonfev it does make sense because that's how other manufacturers do it.
thanks for the tip,this worked well. checking if I could relocate them
Great Vid going to do my suburban this weekend 👍🏻👍🏻👀
Wow a great video! Thanks for the correct amount of details and solutions. What a gift!
Great video... Everything someone would need to know..
Thank you very much sir, I've done this before on a different vehicle but didn't know exactly how the knock sensors communicate with the ECU. After seeing your video and reading a few comments I now know, same type of crystal that's in a clicker lighter, smack it with an out of tune frequency and it's gonna spark that check engine light.
When reading those codes it's important to differentiate a knock sensor fault from a knock sensor circuit fault. Circuit is an important word because it's telling you the fault can be anywhere in the entire circuit including the wires the connectors or the knock sensors. This is true on other codes as well. It's easy to focus on the component but it's necessary to troubleshoot the entire circuit.
If you get these codes it's more than likely going to be the sensor. The rubber gaskets harden up and shrink allowing moisture to get in and corrode the piss out of the sensor.
There's a gm bulletin out for these sensors, the solution is RTV the hell out of it.
Also, the job is not that hard to do at home. Very simple, the only special tools you will need is the tool to disconnect the fuel lines and an inch pound torque wrench to torque the intake manifold back on.
@@idabomb00i wonder if they improved them after the tsb release
@@shadowopsairman1583 I seriously doubt it. TSB 02-06-04-023A was released in 2002 yet the same knock sensors are interchangeable between an array of different makes and models and engines between 1999-2007.
It doesn't matter if they improved water intrusion around the valley plate, that knock sensor gasket will still shrink up over time. Humid air can corrode the sensor, it doesn't necessarily need to be water.
Thank you for this video, I already purchased the new sensors and harness but just do not feel like doing the work.Going to try your fix first.
Thank you so much
Thank You Sir.Need to get truck inspected and wont have time to replace knock sensors for a few weeks.Your bypass option is real straight forward and very doable.Than You very very much for you time and tutorial.
Just tried it...so far so good 👍thanks man
7:21 Bypass instructions start here, if you need to learn about knock sensors and their operation start the video from the beginning
Bless
I'm gonna try this this weekend, thank you so much!! I got the same truck and color too lol
I've been looking for this solution for some time, thanks!!
The fix worked on my 02 Chevy 2500 hd 6.0. I did use the ohm meter to verify that the 332 code so that I connected the wires to the good sensor and not the bad. I also used a two wire crimp connector (Available at any auto parts store and it is "on the shelf" in the electrical aisle . Box of 4 was $2.49) instead of the wire nut. Took me almost 10 mins. to do it and it saved me hundreds in repairs!
This worked great, I actually got 2 connectors w wire on each end from the junkyard . Took a Female socket w wires attached , taped off the blue and attached the green to both green and blue wires attached to a male socket then just added added it to existing , Factory wires are uncut and new piece is less than 6" and tucks out of the way
See my response to other comments about how to make sure your engine doesn’t knock. cheap to do. With just one sensor working now you want be sure she does not knock.
You are awsome man thankyou for this easy by pass 👍👍
now that is very intelligent explanation of how to test... how to repair and .. and how to verify the fix is completed properly!!
This really works, i have a 04 ls extended cab 2wd and just did this a week ago. There are no knock sensor codes since. if you're on the fence, do it. It works.
you just saved alot of people money !!!!!
I just did your little fix and works great. 02 Tahoe 4.8 engine.
Low voltage to bank 2.
Took about 10 minutes?
Thanks Sam!!!
I have the same engine and code, going to use this repair!
Hows your fuel mileage? Did it come back to normal after by-pass?
@@gregoneill1495how gas mileage?
You’re the best, just got new manifold gaskets 2 days before knock sensor code came up (didn’t replace them at the same time like an idiot) and this bypass took 10 min and solved my P0332
So glad too hear it worked for you. Mine is still going strong after more than two years and 20k miles. Running like new. We have verified that the knock sensors are redundant so you only need one working one.
@@SoaringMechcan I drive with a bad knock sensor for 3 hours buying Silverado
Thanks so much for sharing this simple fix
Game brother. That's so simple. I have been struggling with how to fix this problem for two years. Thank you. Yes it would be better to replace the sensor but now at least if the light comes on I'll know something else is wrong as before as before I just ignored the light so this is better than that. Thanks again. Good through video.
See my response to other comments about how to make sure your engine doesn’t knock. cheap to do. With just one sensor working now you want be sure she does not knock.
Very impressed with your style and lecture
Thanks. Nice kids😊😊
Man O man you rock!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My truck is burning rubber and even better is actually wanting to haul my trailer!! 😀 we need this man for president!
Glad it worked for you. Leaving on a road trip tomorrow and my truck is still running great.
sam washburn thank you so much. 👍👍
I have a 2001 Yukon XL. From the day a bought it, I have had an intermittent check engine light. Sometimes it would go off for a long time, sometimes I would cancel. One thing I did notice is that everytime I installed a new battery, the light would go off, leading me to believe there was some kind of a low voltage issue with the sensors.
Anyways, I was getting ready to install new knock sensors, which I wasn't all that keen on doing. I did one last Google search and saw your solution. Bingo!! I knew that was my answer. Being a retired electrician, I realized that it was an excellent and simple solution. It's been 3 days now and no check light. I know it saved me $200 if I replaced the sensors or @$800 if my mechanic did it.
Thanks Sam, very much
Tom
Glad it worked for you. You had a 332 or 327 code. I just got back from a 4200 mile trip to colorarado. Engine ran flawlessly.
See my other comments about how to make sure your engine doesn’t knock
@@SoaringMech Had a code 332, I've already read your tips on making sure the engine doesn't knock. I'm right on top of that, as the Yukon only is used about 3 months a year, but important 3 months. It brings us from snowy NH before it get real bad (snow) to coastal GA in shorts. The last thing I want is issues. Where are you from Sam? When you're outside in your video, it looks like the northeast?
Great money saving tip and I love saving money!
Tom
Tom Cummings I live in northern massachusetts
I couldnt get rid of P0327 for a year! Tried everything and this finally worked! THANK YOU
Congrats. Glad to hear it’s fixed. Mine is still code free after 18 months.
Michael Smith when you say you tried everything did you actually replace the bad knock sensor and harness? I’m just wondering...not trying to be a smart ass 😁
@@hectordeanda9133 yes and I replaced the bank 1 knock sensor twice.
Thank you very much followed your instructions went to emissions and truck passed with flying colors again thanks.
Wow. This completely fixed my issue. Light is staying off and it runs like a sewing machine.
Fantastic! Will be doing this tomorrow.
i wish i would have done this before replacing the knock sensors. Thanks for the upload.
thanks man this is great . will perform this. it will buy me time .
Bro thanks that actually pretty smart thanks we need more people like you
I can't thank you enough. you made my day.. I love you
Thank You, great information. Tired of seeing check engine light.
Had this same idea. Good work
This was genius. Worked Great! Thanks
Totally worked for me thank you friend!
Thank you for us people that don't have the means this is not hurting anyting
Thanks so much!! I did this after replacing both knock sensors, 2 months later P0327 came back. I sure didnt want to have to pay a mechanic to do this again so I took this short cut, problem solved. 2004, 4.8 has power again and the wife is happy once more!
this video couldn't of come at a better time. I'm getting a p0332 code usually in the mornings when i accelerate spiritedly for a brief moment it pops up, then i just reset it with my scan tool and everything is fine. I think I'm gonna do this too. On my 2002 Escalade AWD 6.0.. cause man some days my truck drives fast then a bout 2 months later the p0332 code comes back. lol ill deff try this out
Good luck. Please post the results for others to see.
@@SoaringMech yessir
This worked great I pass the smog the next day😁
that's an awesome fix if you have a sensor still reading right thanks a lot
Unfortunately this bypass didn't work me. I replaced both sensors and the harness with RTV in my driveway. Took about 3 hours. I had the rear sensor (p0327) fail and the forward sensor as a pending fault. I appreciate you taking the time to post a temporary solution to this all too common issue.
As I said in the video the solution won’t work if both sensors are bad
What a great tip, although after paying local tech $800 to replace the sensors (along with replacing plugs and wires) on my 2012 GMC. Took my truck back twice after the fix and the light still returns. He's stated that he will use more expensive OEM parts if the problem returns. However, the inconvenience is tempting me to do this fix myself. I assume that if both knock sensors are bad, this fix won't work. Thank You.
Correct. U need at least one working sensor.
Brilliant. I have that same problem, and I'll give this a try!
Thank you very much this is the smart way
Great video! My brother and I planing on replacing them on his truck this weekend. I'm going to suggest, we bypass them. It will saved us a lot of time and a little bit of money too. We can definitely use that money to buy beer instead. Lol! Thank you sir.
Thank you, you brilliant man!
Work perfectly got power back
Very helpful thank you I have a 2005 6.0 it is doing the exact thing you are talking about I will try this today It will save me $2000 from the dealer thank you
Let me know how it goes
I finally got around and bypass my knock sensor on my Chevy truck as of today seems to be working perfectly fine I do appreciate your knowledge And you sharing it with people thank you again
@@bernardbolton2317 great. Mine is still running fine after 3 years. I just drove 2200 mile to Florida. She’s running perfectly.
Worked for me! Thanks.
Thank you so much my knock sensor boss broke so this I hope will help. Resolve the issue without deleting knock sensors completely
billy mensch let me know how it works out for you. Good luck. Sam
@@SoaringMech so far drove to work last 2 days still no coded and driving great
@@billymz28 I’m up to 20k miler and engine still running perfectly
@@SoaringMechcan you drive a car with a bad knock sensor for long distance?
@@nathanmccumber8965 yes. I’ve driven it 20,000 miles with no problems after rewiring it as describes in the video
Very easy instructions thanks
Thanks...also, look up relocating the sensors to teh Cyl head .. I just did that and its working great
It works! Thank you.
So it all makes sense and no more codes - great idea. I found you because I ran a search, "can u run the engine without working knock sensors".
So it begs the question, should you run your engine with only one knock sensor? Can u damage your engine.
Nevermind I read your other responses. I treat this engine with sever care. It runs better now then it did when I bought it 200k miles ago. I tow nothing with it and not worried about knocking at all. Seafoam in the oil from time to time, sprayed into throttle body as well and in the gas tank.
Plugs and wires are done every 50k miles. They are perfect. No issues. Runs perfect. Will be doing this fix in short order. Thanks again.
Will follow through with your fix and move on with life.
@@2009adtommy a lot of people asked so i made a video on this question: th-cam.com/video/T-sIhRQBNgY/w-d-xo.html
You the man thank you for the information
Awesome explanation thanks for that
Thank you for the video.
I'm going to try this u just paid a lot of money to have both knock sensors replaced and a few months later code came back . And it was fun at a GM dealership
If you paid a dealer to fix it, take it back to them. They should fix that for free after such a short time.
Thank you Sir you the best MUCHAS GRACIAS AMIGO🤗👍🤗👍🤗🇺🇸
De nada mi amigo
Thank you for sharing this!
Appreciate it it worked perfectly
Very clever and for all u saying it’s bad come on now if u can’t tell a difference in ur engine when it comes to knocking and YIUR counting on a sensor to inform you go trade in for a Prius
This is a 45min job. I did one yesterday, and 2 weeks ago. One fuel line, i vacuum hose, unplug all the injectors, remove intake, the rest is fairly self explanatory. 2hrs at most if u have to watch or read instructions while doing it. I did it in 45min while having full blown conversation with the owner of the vehicle.
Thank you for you help I was locking for a wonderful video and I find you ❤
Youre welcome. Good luck
Very good info
Thanks
Thank u! I am going to try right now. Will let u know if it worked for me. My front sensor is good.
Bill Rimmer did it work?
Hellpanda Rt Yes it worked perfect. Car has been good for a couple of months.
Excellent info 👌
Thank you sir it’s working