Why in the world would you cut off the connector on the engine side? I sure hope you kept it. I did mine with just cutting the sensor side and used a screw type taplock. 5min was done
This worked for me after changing out my knock sensors twice. Easier way to do it tho. Just snip behind the connector coming from the sensors, strip and twist them together, crimp one female terminal on them both. Second, strip each wire coming from sensors and crimp in male plugs. This way if you are not sure which one is working you can switch it in seconds. Clear codes and go. My truck got it fuel mileage and timing back. Drives so much better!
@@gregallen8151 yes I have seen others do just that. As long as one good one is sending the signal it should work fine. Just go to oriellys or a parts store and clear codes after.
What does this mean? My truck has been running extremely rough and it’s because one of the knock sensors are bad and I don’t know which one it is. Can you help me understand your comment more clearly man?
If your truck is running extremely rough, it is likely that your engine is actually knocking and the sensors are just telling you it's knocking @trevorstacey6603
@@IxcharleyxIit’s not really running wicked rough, my exhaust pops when I reach around 45 miles an hour. I do know that the knock sensors are bad but that’s the least of my worries at the moment. Now I am thinking it’s my injectors. It’s getting to much fuel
So when the 2nd sensor goes out you will need to pull the intake anyways Just do it right the first time and properly seal the connection seals on the KS's
The intake gaskets take 30 min to do on those. Those gaskets Leak so much there are problem solver gaskets to fix the issue. The knock sensors rust in the cavity that cause the problem.
I don’t disagree with you about the time or the gaskets. Truth be told, most modern cars/trucks have there knock sensors on the outside. The idea of having 2 inside of a motor is insane. You can literally slam the tailgate or a door while testing the resistance of a knock sensor with a multimeter and it’ll change the reading. 250$ for a GM knock sensor kit is insane. One knock sensor reading shouldn’t be an issue.
@@xxMaxMoneyxx oh gm engineers are complete morons. Who would have thought water would collect in a hole. Worse yet the engines collecting oil in the cylinders 1 and 7 for a decade of production. They knew and didn't care about the customers.
ya its called red rtv silicone LOL never had an issue using trusty red toyotas makes a nice black kind sets instantly and is oil resistant just expensive
After month how is your truck running? The code come back? I changed the knock sensors and the dang code came back on me. Bank 1 for me. I just dont remember which color is the bank one and which is 2? What do you think? I am almost ready to do this hack cuz i hate lights on and shit not working. 😂
so.... in order for this to work, does one of the sensors still need to be good then? cause both of mine are kicking out codes, which i think is causing my P0300 code as well.
My knock sensors go bad every two years. I will do this as a temporary fix to pass emissions. The 4.8 is a bad design. They should have put these externally.
Do NOT do this.... Buy genuine AC Delco sensors and wiring harness...replace. If still shows code check wiring to ECM. It might be the connector at the top of the ecm (pin 51...dark blue wire and pin 11...light blue wire). Clean connectors and check wiring up to the connector you cut off. Should fix it... :0)
Most harnesses trace from the fuse block back to chassis ground. Wiring diagrams are necessary I had to check the AC clutch wire, no short was detected that way.
@@victorbeltran9344 not on the 6.2…because it came out later in the gen4 series where all the knock sensors are moved to either side of the block next to motor mounts.
Why do hacks always try to get others to be hacks? News flash... the intake gaskets on these are problematic which would be replaced while doing this job CORRECTLY! you freaking parts changer hacks who change their own oil on the weekends call yourself mechanics passing on bad information when you have no idea what you're talking about. Who hacks up their wiring harness and honestly believe they fixed anything.
Right I just watched this and it’s fuckin cringe, I get it if you just need to get an emissions test done and complete the job later or done it already and one sensor comes back bad but geez loueez hack the trucks harness and delete the pigtail all together, he says all the videos for this on here suck but this has got to be the worst one
You saved me some money Today Thank you and I hope rewards will fall at your door 👍🤠Tex🇺🇸
Why in the world would you cut off the connector on the engine side? I sure hope you kept it. I did mine with just cutting the sensor side and used a screw type taplock. 5min was done
Wired my bad sensor to my good one, works perfectly...
This worked for me after changing out my knock sensors twice. Easier way to do it tho. Just snip behind the connector coming from the sensors, strip and twist them together, crimp one female terminal on them both. Second, strip each wire coming from sensors and crimp in male plugs. This way if you are not sure which one is working you can switch it in seconds. Clear codes and go. My truck got it fuel mileage and timing back. Drives so much better!
Man I could use your help right now. My sensors are under my Van. Can I just run a wire from bank 1 and tap into bank 2. Bank one is bad on mine
@@gregallen8151 yes I have seen others do just that. As long as one good one is sending the signal it should work fine. Just go to oriellys or a parts store and clear codes after.
What does this mean? My truck has been running extremely rough and it’s because one of the knock sensors are bad and I don’t know which one it is. Can you help me understand your comment more clearly man?
If your truck is running extremely rough, it is likely that your engine is actually knocking and the sensors are just telling you it's knocking @trevorstacey6603
@@IxcharleyxIit’s not really running wicked rough, my exhaust pops when I reach around 45 miles an hour. I do know that the knock sensors are bad but that’s the least of my worries at the moment. Now I am thinking it’s my injectors. It’s getting to much fuel
My guy here really don’t spend any money 😂 seen the heater hose clamp off I’m guessing bypass aswell 👍💯
That’s right
link and details
Ok ive changed both of my sensors twice and the damn code keeps coming back. Po325 it says high input circuit malfunction. Im about to do this hack
Yeah i anit into botched jobs 😅. Im glad youre happy but when you cut those wires i about had a heart attack 😅😅
So when the 2nd sensor goes out you will need to pull the intake anyways Just do it right the first time and properly seal the connection seals on the KS's
Does that affect smog check
Ok Captain how Did That Turn out After a Test Drive ?
Went great, no codes. Truck picked up power, no knocking.
I’ll update if anything changes.
The intake gaskets take 30 min to do on those. Those gaskets Leak so much there are problem solver gaskets to fix the issue. The knock sensors rust in the cavity that cause the problem.
I don’t disagree with you about the time or the gaskets. Truth be told, most modern cars/trucks have there knock sensors on the outside. The idea of having 2 inside of a motor is insane. You can literally slam the tailgate or a door while testing the resistance of a knock sensor with a multimeter and it’ll change the reading.
250$ for a GM knock sensor kit is insane.
One knock sensor reading shouldn’t be an issue.
@@xxMaxMoneyxx oh gm engineers are complete morons. Who would have thought water would collect in a hole. Worse yet the engines collecting oil in the cylinders 1 and 7 for a decade of production. They knew and didn't care about the customers.
@@xxMaxMoneyxxwas your truck making a knocking sound at all before you did that repair
ya its called red rtv silicone LOL never had an issue using trusty red toyotas makes a nice black kind sets instantly and is oil resistant just expensive
After month how is your truck running? The code come back? I changed the knock sensors and the dang code came back on me. Bank 1 for me. I just dont remember which color is the bank one and which is 2? What do you think? I am almost ready to do this hack cuz i hate lights on and shit not working. 😂
Still running strong ;)
Can anyone help me i changed mine twice , harnesses AC Delco all that and it still comes on even the pin wire
so.... in order for this to work, does one of the sensors still need to be good then? cause both of mine are kicking out codes, which i think is causing my P0300 code as well.
Yep that’s right. One has to still be good.
My knock sensors go bad every two years. I will do this as a temporary fix to pass emissions. The 4.8 is a bad design. They should have put these externally.
Will this work if both sensors are bad?
I would assume no, you’ll have to go fully in depth to fix the problem you’re having.
I’m wondering, will the truck still pass smog if I do this?
It should pass it no problem, I’m in NC so that doesn’t matter for me.
@@xxMaxMoneyxx Lucky. Im in Cali
register in arizona instead of cali
Do NOT do this.... Buy genuine AC Delco sensors and wiring harness...replace. If still shows code check wiring to ECM. It might be the connector at the top of the ecm (pin 51...dark blue wire and pin 11...light blue wire). Clean connectors and check wiring up to the connector you cut off. Should fix it... :0)
Most harnesses trace from the fuse block back to chassis ground. Wiring diagrams are necessary
I had to check the AC clutch wire, no short was detected that way.
All of the ac Delco knock sensors have bad reviews though
So has it been running good or what's up?
Sure does
TSB Is to surround sensors with silicon like a dam because moisture in the hole they screw in
And then You Get Knock Sensor Circuit Codes!
Ok I am confused. What is the purpose of cutting the connect off and then just reconnecting the wires without the connector?
The good knock sensor will control the bad knock sensor.
I guess the mosquitos were why you had to wiggle the connectors while showing them. get a candle.
They were destroying me lol.
For ever to strip six wires
Mosquito’s were killing me 👌🏽
All I did was unplug and jump wires
This did not last at all. I the code came back
100 a piece he says literally $60 for both sensors and harness at parts geek
Not the 6.2…. They are on the outside, and who wouldn’t just change those, takes 10 minutes for both
10 min just ain’t the case on this motor. The knock sensors are under the intake.
@@victorbeltran9344 not on the 6.2…because it came out later in the gen4 series where all the knock sensors are moved to either side of the block next to motor mounts.
You Do Know how them Sensors Operate Don't You?
Yes.
How do they work?
Why the hell would you want to do this.
Get around a knock sensor code without spending any money 😃
You are a cobbler it takes less than an hour to remove and install that intake manifold
Lol
The rich politicians took our money from us and you literally can’t afford it 😢Almost Broke in America 🤠
No kidding. I have never done it and I went for it completed in 3 hours and 6 beers. Not a big deal at all!
it took me 4 beers so i saved the other 2 for later@@joshuamcbride4847
Why do hacks always try to get others to be hacks? News flash... the intake gaskets on these are problematic which would be replaced while doing this job CORRECTLY! you freaking parts changer hacks who change their own oil on the weekends call yourself mechanics passing on bad information when you have no idea what you're talking about. Who hacks up their wiring harness and honestly believe they fixed anything.
Right I just watched this and it’s fuckin cringe, I get it if you just need to get an emissions test done and complete the job later or done it already and one sensor comes back bad but geez loueez hack the trucks harness and delete the pigtail all together, he says all the videos for this on here suck but this has got to be the worst one