What a practical approach you used to give you the required room to attach those two bolts to the valve head! My most sincere admiration and appreciation for taking the time to share this with us! I had ordered this bracket and up until today, when I came across this video, I had seen other TH-cam contributors making it sound like a multi-hour, or days, affair! Definitely subscribing to your channel. As the owner of a 2001 Chevrolet Suburban, I could definitely learn from people like you on keeping a 307K mile vehicle humming right along.
Southern boys like this will really fool ya, I promise, don't let the drawl throw you off this is a very intelligent fella and could probably pop ya at 400yds with one try 😅
Did this from the top in under an hour with the ground strap in the way too Had to lay on the rad support and barely got both hands back there braille style Trick is you need a nano socket set from Astro absolutely indespensible tool very low profile just wouldn't have happened without it from the top anyway
I have decided to leave my temporary fix installed until it fails. I have everything on hand to replace it but nearly a year in and it has help up great.
Thanks for the video. After watching your video I was able to place this clamp in less than 30 minutes on my AWD 2004 EXT. I got the upper bolt first from the top and the lower bolt from the bottom It was a frustratingly tight space. No more exhaust ticking Hope it last.
That's awesome! I wish I'd have known about those a couple years ago for my old '90' GMC. Had that exact same problem. I just put up with it for about a year and then sold the truck when I upgraded. Will certainly remember it for the future though. Thanks for sharing.
I tried for 2 hours today and just could not get it installed. Even with removing the heat shield. What's the secret? Couldn't reach it from the bottom with my front drive line in the way. And through the top I couldn't get my hand back there
This was done on a 2WD. I would have to look at the additional problems associated with a 4WD installation. The heat shield removal gave me all of the room I needed.
I tried too with 4 wheel drive. Got heat shield off. Still No way. I took off the the front u joint moved the drive shaft over more room but oxysensor in way can get hand up there a little bit but really need two hands. The weight of bracket and limited hand room and trying line up bracket and turning the bolt theres just no way.
4WD is definitely more difficult but it only took about 3 hours. Removed from of driveline and slid it out of the way. I though I was going to have to take the whole thing off so I bought and extra boot and clamps just in case but it didn’t need them. From there the heat shield slid out and it was time for the bracket. My truck does have a braided ground from block to cab but I just moved that to an easier to get to hole in the block. Needed an extra hand once it was time to put the bracket on. I held the bracket from the bottom while my helper put the top bolt in. After that it was a one person job. Exhaust leak fixed.
I'm currently doing this and I have the same scenario as you, this video it appears that he didn't have the driveline in his way. As I got under mine, I realize something has to move as I cannot get my arm in there.
On the back on the driver side block bolt my tahoe has the ground wire there... can i still use the bracket with the ground wire going to it??? Any help would be appreciated
Should not be a problem. Mount the clamp on the rear of the head using one of the attaching bolts as the ground clamp. You may need a slightly longer bolt and a washer between the bolt head and cable will help keep the cable from spinning when tightening.
Easier way especially four wheel drive. Remove heat shield take apart u joint at front. Move shaft out of way. Buy two new bolts that are longer cut bolt heads off make them into studs. Screw your studs in. Hang Bracket on studs tighten nuts on. Way easier.
I have a 2001, 2500HD with the 6.0 L. With an EGR valve. The passenger front exhaust manifold bolt broke and the clamp does not work because the EGR Valve bracket uses the same hole(s) where the bracket would bolt on to, and the EGR tubes may need to be a bit longer. Does anyone have a work around? I would really like to use the clamp for the bandaid, as I do not want to spend the big bucks on a 22 year old truck with 208K miles on him. I have three clamps on the other 3 corners and they seem to be working great. HELP! What is the work around or another solution?
Might be a year specific thing - not sure. This is supposed to do the trick - might want to look into it and confirm if it will help you out - www.kralautoparts.com/product/exhaust-manifold-bolt-repair-kit-kap169/
@@TigerCreekFarm I already installed 3 on the other corners and they do work! I need that forth corner done as that bolt broke as well. But the EGR valve is in the way and uses one of the holes that the clamp needs. I am looking for the workaround.
@@TigerCreekFarm I heard back from Kral Auto Parts, maker of the clamps, in addition to others. They indicated their clamp will fit behind the EGR valve bracket. They indicated to use the EGR valve bolts as they are long enough to work. I ordered the clamp and hope to install as soon as it gets here. Hoping for an easy install.
It depends how big ones hands and fingers are. I tried today for 2-3 hrs even after removing the heat shield and couldnt get it on. Gonna do the stud and nut thing tomorrow, or get shorter bolts…🙏
I have exact same problem on a 2007 suburban 5.3….both Rear bolts….guy wants 800 ……I thought clearance made the temporary fix impossible…thanks…..do you think 800 is a reasonable price to do the actual repair? Seems steep to me
My temporary repair is still going strong. I have everything I need on hand to make the repair but decided to wait for the band aid to fail. So far so good. For what is involved in getting to and removing the broken bolts $800 is probably a fair price. Wouldn't hurt to check around for competitive rates.
@@TigerCreekFarmthese clamps are supposed to be a permanent fix. I am glad that you made this video. I installed one on the back passenger corner. The dipstick was in the way, but managed to make it work. I have been fighting with the back corner on the driver’s side, but haven’t gotten that one on. I didn’t know that the heat shield could come off. That will help. 😊
I like your mastiff. I've had a number over the years male and female. I had 2 brindled females about that same color. They weighed in about 190 each. Best damn dogs anybody can have. I liked the video also. I was thinking about getting another vehicle with an LS engine about the same vintage. Maybe I'll get another mastiff to ride along in the truck.
Still there doing its intended job. I have everything to replace it should it fail but decided to leave well enough alone until it begins to crap out. So far no complaints and pretty impressed.
It's not that easy. Even though you get just a little more room, it's still a tight space & if you have big hands, you can forget doing this. It can be done this way, but its gone take you a while to complete it..
its alot easier with the earlier models like the 2004. I just did it on my 2011 1500 5.3 and i could barely fit my hand in there even with the heat shield removed. I made it happen, but god damn, if you have thick arms and hands....nearly impossible. use your wife or kid to give you a hand
What a practical approach you used to give you the required room to attach those two bolts to the valve head! My most sincere admiration and appreciation for taking the time to share this with us! I had ordered this bracket and up until today, when I came across this video, I had seen other TH-cam contributors making it sound like a multi-hour, or days, affair! Definitely subscribing to your channel. As the owner of a 2001 Chevrolet Suburban, I could definitely learn from people like you on keeping a 307K mile vehicle humming right along.
sir you made this look easy- I had bought the bracket a few years back and when i couldn't get my hand back there i put it away. thank you!
Excellent video debunking the uneeded frustration behind this task. Thank you!
Southern boys like this will really fool ya, I promise, don't let the drawl throw you off this is a very intelligent fella and could probably pop ya at 400yds with one try 😅
Did this from the top in under an hour with the ground strap in the way too
Had to lay on the rad support and barely got both hands back there braille style
Trick is you need a nano socket set from Astro absolutely indespensible tool very low profile just wouldn't have happened without it from the top anyway
Thank you Sir, like yourself I am going to do this as a temporary fix on my son’s truck until the winter is over.
I have decided to leave my temporary fix installed until it fails. I have everything on hand to replace it but nearly a year in and it has help up great.
Well done. Thanks for the heat shield tip.
Great video bud ! I just became aware of this fix yesterday and ordered the part. Thanks for tip on the heat sheild !
Thanks for the video. After watching your video I was able to place this clamp in less than 30 minutes on my AWD 2004 EXT. I got the upper bolt first from the top and the lower bolt from the bottom It was a frustratingly tight space. No more exhaust ticking Hope it last.
Glad it helped
Thanks for the tip on the heat shield, several other videos don't mention that. I will do that this weekend.
Good luck!
That's awesome! I wish I'd have known about those a couple years ago for my old '90' GMC. Had that exact same problem. I just put up with it for about a year and then sold the truck when I upgraded. Will certainly remember it for the future though. Thanks for sharing.
You are the man. Thank you for such a detailed walk through
Good video! Thanks for taking the time to show it to us!
Very helpful. Thanks for the tips and sizes. This was a huge help
I tried for 2 hours today and just could not get it installed. Even with removing the heat shield. What's the secret? Couldn't reach it from the bottom with my front drive line in the way. And through the top I couldn't get my hand back there
This was done on a 2WD. I would have to look at the additional problems associated with a 4WD installation. The heat shield removal gave me all of the room I needed.
I tried too with 4 wheel drive. Got heat shield off. Still No way. I took off the the front u joint moved the drive shaft over more room but oxysensor in way can get hand up there a little bit but really need two hands. The weight of bracket and limited hand room and trying line up bracket and turning the bolt theres just no way.
@@jimbob1096 exactly my thoughts. Gotta have help. Just almost impossible. Let me know if you figure it out. I'm gonna try again on Wednesday
@@jimbob1096 4wd must be a real bear.
Did driver side gonna order another for pass. I Crawled in from the top and used a ratchet wrench. I have a 2005 chevy suburban
Thank you very much sir, I'm gonna look into this for my 5.3 chevy with the same noise. Thanks again
Super informative. Thanks for the help
4WD is definitely more difficult but it only took about 3 hours.
Removed from of driveline and slid it out of the way. I though I was going to have to take the whole thing off so I bought and extra boot and clamps just in case but it didn’t need them.
From there the heat shield slid out and it was time for the bracket. My truck does have a braided ground from block to cab but I just moved that to an easier to get to hole in the block.
Needed an extra hand once it was time to put the bracket on. I held the bracket from the bottom while my helper put the top bolt in. After that it was a one person job.
Exhaust leak fixed.
Thanks for sharing
I'm currently doing this and I have the same scenario as you, this video it appears that he didn't have the driveline in his way. As I got under mine, I realize something has to move as I cannot get my arm in there.
On the back on the driver side block bolt my tahoe has the ground wire there... can i still use the bracket with the ground wire going to it??? Any help would be appreciated
Should not be a problem. Mount the clamp on the rear of the head using one of the attaching bolts as the ground clamp. You may need a slightly longer bolt and a washer between the bolt head and cable will help keep the cable from spinning when tightening.
@@TigerCreekFarm thank you appreciate it
Yes sir great video. I have 2003 tahoe 5.3 with the same exhaust manifold leak. I will be trying that out first
Good luck!
Did you access the heat shield and rear broken bolt from underneath your truck. I cannot tell.
A little bit of both but the majority of the work was done from underneath the truck.
Awesome Video and great job!!!!😎
Do you need to use anti sieze on the bolts that thread into the block?
I used it on mine.
Did you take the front driver side wheel off and work on it from the wheel well?
I just turned the wheel to the right and worked with it still mounted.
@@TigerCreekFarm Thanks! Going to be doing this exact fix soon.
Easier way especially four wheel drive. Remove heat shield take apart u joint at front. Move shaft out of way. Buy two new bolts that are longer cut bolt heads off make them into studs. Screw your studs in. Hang Bracket on studs tighten nuts on. Way easier.
Thanks. I appreciate you sharing this. Someone is looking for your solution right now.
Is that bolt supposed to go into the hole where the broken stud is? Or is it just meant to press on it
No - it presses on the lip of the manifold to recreate the seal.
I have a 2001, 2500HD with the 6.0 L. With an EGR valve. The passenger front exhaust manifold bolt broke and the clamp does not work because the EGR Valve bracket uses the same hole(s) where the bracket would bolt on to, and the EGR tubes may need to be a bit longer.
Does anyone have a work around? I would really like to use the clamp for the bandaid, as I do not want to spend the big bucks on a 22 year old truck with 208K miles on him.
I have three clamps on the other 3 corners and they seem to be working great.
HELP! What is the work around or another solution?
Might be a year specific thing - not sure. This is supposed to do the trick - might want to look into it and confirm if it will help you out - www.kralautoparts.com/product/exhaust-manifold-bolt-repair-kit-kap169/
@@TigerCreekFarm I already installed 3 on the other corners and they do work! I need that forth corner done as that bolt broke as well. But the EGR valve is in the way and uses one of the holes that the clamp needs.
I am looking for the workaround.
@@TigerCreekFarm I heard back from Kral Auto Parts, maker of the clamps, in addition to others. They indicated their clamp will fit behind the EGR valve bracket. They indicated to use the EGR valve bolts as they are long enough to work.
I ordered the clamp and hope to install as soon as it gets here.
Hoping for an easy install.
@@zzotto21 good news and good luck!
It depends how big ones hands and fingers are. I tried today for 2-3 hrs even after removing the heat shield and couldnt get it on. Gonna do the stud and nut thing tomorrow, or get shorter bolts…🙏
So did he go thru the bottom or top.
Both - mostly from the bottom.
I have exact same problem on a 2007 suburban 5.3….both Rear bolts….guy wants 800 ……I thought clearance made the temporary fix impossible…thanks…..do you think 800 is a reasonable price to do the actual repair? Seems steep to me
My temporary repair is still going strong. I have everything I need on hand to make the repair but decided to wait for the band aid to fail. So far so good.
For what is involved in getting to and removing the broken bolts $800 is probably a fair price. Wouldn't hurt to check around for competitive rates.
@@TigerCreekFarmthese clamps are supposed to be a permanent fix. I am glad that you made this video. I installed one on the back passenger corner. The dipstick was in the way, but managed to make it work. I have been fighting with the back corner on the driver’s side, but haven’t gotten that one on. I didn’t know that the heat shield could come off. That will help. 😊
I like your mastiff. I've had a number over the years male and female. I had 2 brindled females about that same color. They weighed in about 190 each. Best damn dogs anybody can have. I liked the video also. I was thinking about getting another vehicle with an LS engine about the same vintage. Maybe I'll get another mastiff to ride along in the truck.
Will this work on a ford 4.0 v6 ohv?
I don't believe they make a kit for that motor.
Absolutely just bolt it anywhere
Great video friend. Iil be doing this job tomorrow. Thanks for the information
Good luck!
Thanks. How long did it end up holding
Still going strong. It had loosened up so I put a bit of loctite on it and it has not budged or leaked since. Gonna let it stay until it fails.
@@TigerCreekFarm thanks for the quick response and video. I'll give it a shot on my 6.0L today as well take your advice to remove the heat shield.
@@TheErms12345 good luck my friend
Wow
Is there a part number.
For the driver rear or passenger front the part number is Dorman 917-107.
Did u keep it on there?
Still there doing its intended job. I have everything to replace it should it fail but decided to leave well enough alone until it begins to crap out. So far no complaints and pretty impressed.
@@TigerCreekFarm that's awesome....I think I'm also going this route
That's cool, makes things alot easier!
Exactly so. Still no leaks.
It's not that easy. Even though you get just a little more room, it's still a tight space & if you have big hands, you can forget doing this. It can be done this way, but its gone take you a while to complete it..
I can not still squeeze my hand in there to get the nuts in😢
It can be character building.
its alot easier with the earlier models like the 2004. I just did it on my 2011 1500 5.3 and i could barely fit my hand in there even with the heat shield removed. I made it happen, but god damn, if you have thick arms and hands....nearly impossible. use your wife or kid to give you a hand
I got my today
*claps*