I was on here to search for a trick to removing a exhaust bolt in my hummer with the 6.0l engine( back,left side) only 2 inches of clearance from firewall and was dreading removing the head. I'm so glad to have seen your video and existence of that part,cheers to you kind sir you saved me time and money!
Older, but this is one of the best videos I've seen on exhaust manifold repair issues, I have to repair exhaust manifold on a 283 small block, hope I don't have any problems, video details and everything very helpful, by the way, some people say to start engine to operating temperature before removing exhaust manifold gaskets, what is your advice, THANKS SUBSCRIBED.
What if that bracket had a drill guide in it so you could actually drill out the old bolt? If that head has the same 2 bolt holes at the other end you could make a drill guide plate to drill any bolt out.
They do make products for that but it's really better to weld them out with a nut than to drill. It's way quicker and easier (if you have a good MIG welder)
I am going to have to go get that bracket. I have a broken exhaust bolt on mine 5.3 just bought the truck and noticed it the other day when doing a oil change.
Always rear bolts on American v8's for some reason. Not a big enough bolt?? My guess & too much heat makes bolt weak & break. Always nice to see other guys method👍🔧🍺
Really would have liked to see a video of someone putting this on with the manifold still on probably most people will be doing it that way if they didn't let the problem grow into a mess
nice video I just installed the clamp on #7 cylinder both bolts on 7 where broken. I tightened the 3rd bolt down untill it bottomed out is that normal? thanks
Works on the LS4 number 7 exhaust manifold bolt too. Have to made a small mod because the upper motor mount is 1/4 inche thick and bolts to one of those threaded holes on the 243 heads.
can not wait for your brush vs brushless video comes out looking at a 3/8 drive impact the one i can get for 150 or the other one is like 269 and change both are milwaukee wanting the most bang for the buck and a few more years in working on cars and small engine stuff i had to have sugery on my wrists and elbows and the dr failed at fixing them and i am getting weaker and weaker unable to get things loose or tight when useing wrenched or ratchets any more i know i am not going to be able to use them much but any time i can use the guns will help i do not want to go down with out a fight
Would have been nice to see a before and after exhaust leak test. I bought similar brackets for broken rear boltson my wife's 2007 Trail Blazer SS and the leak was still there. I'm almost positive it's just better to extract the bolt and do it the right way.
Justin, you can use your awesome new welder to weld nuts on the studs to take them out. The heat from welding will go right where you want it, directly into the stud. I hope this could help you or someone else in a bind. Happy wrenching !
@@christopherchedester807hat kind of welder did you use? I pretty much don't know hardly anything about welding. I have 4 broke bolts on mine. 2 on each side. Can you use a stick welder? I know those aren't too expensive.
I second this, I haven't come across one I couldn't get out yet, even if broken down in the head. LS and ford modular are notorious for broken bolts/studs up here in the rust belt
It may be interchangeable. you'll have to read the information in the description page. There may even be another one for the other side entirely. Cheers & thanks for any feedback you are able to get. We appreciate it. Cheers!
I don't have a 5.3.. but what I do have is a ford 250 i6 with a broken manifold bolt directly behind the water outlet on the head. Due to the way this engine is designed, there's no way to remove that outlet without removing the head, which I'm not doing. So I've resorted to band-aiding the thing like I do everything else and fabricating a clamp to hold the manifold flush with the head. God I hate exhaust work with a passion
I have a 2001, 2500HD with the 6.0 L. With an EGR valve. The passenger front exhaust manifold bolt broke and the clamp does not work because the EGR Valve bracket uses the same hole(s) where the bracket would bolt on to, and the EGR tubes may need to be a bit longer. Does anyone have a work around? I would really like to use the clamp for the bandaid, as I do not want to spend the big bucks on a 22 year old truck with 208K miles on him. I have three clamps on the other 3 corners and they seem to be working great. HELP! What is the work around or another solution?
Hey dude i could use an opinion. i bought an incomplete 5.3 LS missing plugs, plug wires, starter, ecu, manifolds and alternator for mere $200 cdn with another $80 if /when he comes up with the starter, manifolds, plugs and ecu. its been a month, this single dad guy seems really unreliable and not sure i can trust it was even a good running engine or only had 160,000 km on it.[ $280 cdn or about 220 usd, sounds too good to be true for well running engine with no problems doesnt it?} So i bought another complete cutout for $450 cdn with 220,000 km on it that was in a rollover and i seen a video of it running afterwards. Only problem is it has a broken manifold bolt that i tried migwelding onto and twist out, that failed. So i tried drilling it out, the mig welds made it go off center and the extractor only made it turn out about 1/3 turn b4 breaking off in hole. then i tried migging a nut on there and that failed 3 times. So at this point would you recomend i just swap all the good parts i dont have on the other engine from this engine and sell the higher mileage core as is with broken maifld bolt and use the lower mileage one and just trust it was a running good engine? OR would you recomend just using one of these clamps u r videoing about, on higher mileage engine?
@@rustyshackleford407 AvE did a video about this some time ago. Basically rtv a aluminum can ring around the broken bolt add water stir in a little alum and wait for 24 hours. Alum to dissolve steel is a good search term. I think AvE used a small v8 can to make the ring.
Great Video and very helpful . Thank u . I have a 2003 Tahoe with a 5.3 . Leaking form the passenger side rear. Will this work on both side ???? Can find any info.
Well because it's broken off in the head and do you really want to weld anything next to aluminum and have to do a head job because you screwed up the head by welding that close?
@@statortot11 Your most likely a better welder than I. I would be scared I'd cause damage. Still this method does work and as you stated your method works as well. Cheers Friend.
Drank my steel reserve with you ha, but yeah my Passenger #8 back bolt is broke on my new chrome headers for 6 months and their aint no freaking way to fix it, and I just realized to night this thing exists. I need to try it. Thanks.
not sure how it's making it worse. It's applies a clamping force against the manifold to the cylinder head (same concept as a fastener would) The reason why this is offered is because the only way to drill, tap & helicoil the hole is to remove the cylinder head from the engine. That costs the customer more money & of course would take more time before they can get there truck back. I haven't seen any issues as a result of using this bracket. Great comment thanks for asking.
Any dude crackin a coldie to start the vid, gets my sub.
He's drinking my beer too 😅
Ran to Napa after seeing this video. Same bolt sheared on my Silverado resulting in an exhaust leak. New headers and the kit worked out well. 😀👍
I was on here to search for a trick to removing a exhaust bolt in my hummer with the 6.0l engine( back,left side) only 2 inches of clearance from firewall and was dreading removing the head. I'm so glad to have seen your video and existence of that part,cheers to you kind sir you saved me time and money!
This Chanel is very under rated it’s very good
Elijah Thompson Thanks Brother I really appreciate it. 🍻
I had this done from a local shop a year ago it worked great. Looking at your hat and shirt you might have done mine haha. Thank you
This is amazing 😍 you know very well the money this video saved me!
Fantastic!
Thank you man this just saved me so much money an headaches
Glad I could help. Cheers!
King of the hammers 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥 on the back
That’s pretty cool never seen that before, I usually pull the head
Older, but this is one of the best videos I've seen on exhaust manifold repair issues, I have to repair exhaust manifold on a 283 small block, hope I don't have any problems, video details and everything very helpful, by the way, some people say to start engine to operating temperature before removing exhaust manifold gaskets, what is your advice, THANKS SUBSCRIBED.
What if that bracket had a drill guide in it so you could actually drill out the old bolt?
If that head has the same 2 bolt holes at the other end you could make a drill guide plate to drill any bolt out.
They do make products for that but it's really better to weld them out with a nut than to drill. It's way quicker and easier (if you have a good MIG welder)
Do they make one for front drivers side 2017 gmc 5.3L I can not locate one.
I am going to have to go get that bracket. I have a broken exhaust bolt on mine 5.3 just bought the truck and noticed it the other day when doing a oil change.
OutKast Garage Yuppers. Much cheaper than doing a Head Gasket. 🍻🛠
Always rear bolts on American v8's for some reason. Not a big enough bolt?? My guess & too much heat makes bolt weak & break. Always nice to see other guys method👍🔧🍺
they dont put flex pipes on them so the engine twists and the bolts get brittle from heat cycles
Going this route, except my bolt isn't snapped off: it's stripped. Thanks for the info!
That's awesome part to put on . I know labor can be a bit expensive to attempt to remove the broken bolt. Thanks for the #techtip!!
I have 6.2 morrow with collapsed AFM lifter head is coming of tomorrow😎👍🔧
Same bolt broke for me! Thanks!!
Really would have liked to see a video of someone putting this on with the manifold still on probably most people will be doing it that way if they didn't let the problem grow into a mess
Very cool.. Haven't seen that before. Great job man. Definitely a time and money saver. 😎👍🏻
nice video I just installed the clamp on #7 cylinder both bolts on 7 where broken. I tightened the 3rd bolt down untill it bottomed out is that normal? thanks
Works on the LS4 number 7 exhaust manifold bolt too. Have to made a small mod because the upper motor mount is 1/4 inche thick and bolts to one of those threaded holes on the 243 heads.
can not wait for your brush vs brushless video comes out looking at a 3/8 drive impact the one i can get for 150 or the other one is like 269 and change both are milwaukee wanting the most bang for the buck and a few more years in working on cars and small engine stuff i had to have sugery on my wrists and elbows and the dr failed at fixing them and i am getting weaker and weaker unable to get things loose or tight when useing wrenched or ratchets any more i know i am not going to be able to use them much but any time i can use the guns will help i do not want to go down with out a fight
Interesting... I love working on ls engines n done many this exhaust manifold bolts... have u ever come across cylinder 4 lifters yet ?
not yet
Red Loktite is not what needs to be used here. Blue if anything, but even that is not necessary.
I have one passenger rear broken bolt on my 5.3, would it be possible to put that bracket in without removing the manifold?
Does this bracket helps stop the knocking noise leak coming from my manifold one on my bolts is broke will this help stop the noise ?
Should that’s the idea of it
Would have been nice to see a before and after exhaust leak test. I bought similar brackets for broken rear boltson my wife's 2007 Trail Blazer SS and the leak was still there. I'm almost positive it's just better to extract the bolt and do it the right way.
Justin, you can use your awesome new welder to weld nuts on the studs to take them out. The heat from welding will go right where you want it, directly into the stud. I hope this could help you or someone else in a bind. Happy wrenching !
There was no stud the bolt broke off in the head, but that would have been cool. cheers!
That’s how I remove them I just weld a nut to it the steel weld won’t stick to aluminum 🤫
@@christopherchedester807hat kind of welder did you use? I pretty much don't know hardly anything about welding. I have 4 broke bolts on mine. 2 on each side. Can you use a stick welder? I know those aren't too expensive.
@@Zoroaster4i suppose u could try but if ur not decent with a stick welder probably would be a nightmare. Mig gun would be much easier
I second this, I haven't come across one I couldn't get out yet, even if broken down in the head. LS and ford modular are notorious for broken bolts/studs up here in the rust belt
Is this only good for the driver side manifold? I've got broken bolts on the first and last hole on BOTH heads.
It may be interchangeable. you'll have to read the information in the description page. There may even be another one for the other side entirely. Cheers & thanks for any feedback you are able to get. We appreciate it. Cheers!
Im having this exact issue on my 04 avalanche. Do you possibly have a link or know for sure where I cam find this bracket?
TIA
I don't have a 5.3.. but what I do have is a ford 250 i6 with a broken manifold bolt directly behind the water outlet on the head. Due to the way this engine is designed, there's no way to remove that outlet without removing the head, which I'm not doing. So I've resorted to band-aiding the thing like I do everything else and fabricating a clamp to hold the manifold flush with the head. God I hate exhaust work with a passion
didnt notice the part number, here it is Napa #600-0012 or Dorman part #917107
Worked for me 20buck fix in 30min
I have a 2001, 2500HD with the 6.0 L. With an EGR valve. The passenger front exhaust manifold bolt broke and the clamp does not work because the EGR Valve bracket uses the same hole(s) where the bracket would bolt on to, and the EGR tubes may need to be a bit longer.
Does anyone have a work around? I would really like to use the clamp for the bandaid, as I do not want to spend the big bucks on a 22 year old truck with 208K miles on him.
I have three clamps on the other 3 corners and they seem to be working great.
HELP! What is the work around or another solution?
wow thats pretty cool
Hey dude i could use an opinion.
i bought an incomplete 5.3 LS missing plugs, plug wires, starter, ecu, manifolds and alternator for mere $200 cdn with another $80 if /when he comes up with the starter, manifolds, plugs and ecu. its been a month, this single dad guy seems really unreliable and not sure i can trust it was even a good running engine or only had 160,000 km on it.[ $280 cdn or about 220 usd, sounds too good to be true for well running engine with no problems doesnt it?}
So i bought another complete cutout for $450 cdn with 220,000 km on it that was in a rollover and i seen a video of it running afterwards. Only problem is it has a broken manifold bolt that i tried migwelding onto and twist out, that failed. So i tried drilling it out, the mig welds made it go off center and the extractor only made it turn out about 1/3 turn b4 breaking off in hole.
then i tried migging a nut on there and that failed 3 times.
So at this point would you recomend i just swap all the good parts i dont have on the other engine from this engine and sell the higher mileage core as is with broken maifld bolt and use the lower mileage one and just trust it was a running good engine?
OR would you recomend just using one of these clamps u r videoing about, on higher mileage engine?
On an aluminum head you can disolve the old bolt using alum.
The stuff in the spice aisle.
It can also dissolve a broken tap in aluminum.
I am curious as hell about this alum method!.... I’m looking it up but is there anything special I should know?
@@rustyshackleford407 AvE did a video about this some time ago.
Basically rtv a aluminum can ring around the broken bolt add water stir in a little alum and wait for 24 hours.
Alum to dissolve steel is a good search term.
I think AvE used a small v8 can to make the ring.
@@heyyou5189 much appreciated.... this just seems like a more proper solution than the pinch bolt bracket although I’m sure it works fine.
Great Video Boss
That looks like a pretty BA tool/part! I wonder if they make a hemi version
Rustbelt Mechanic Wouldn’t that be nice. 👍
Great oppition
never seen that one before! interesting though wonder how it will hold up? thats a dorman product that napa rebrands so kinda unsure about it! Cheers!
I am ready to work the broken bolts out with 7mm combination wrench.
Great Video and very helpful . Thank u . I have a 2003 Tahoe with a 5.3 . Leaking form the passenger side rear. Will this work on both side ???? Can find any info.
I don’t know the “Dorman” part number but the kap108 should work. I have put one in that position previously www.kralautoparts.com/product/kap108/
The kap108 fits the passenger rear and the drivers front
Would you be able to use that clamp on a set of headers as well??
Yes it works on headers too. I just put a set of stainless headers on my 08 escalade and it worked great.
Guess ima year late.... Have you come across a vehicle already equipped with this?
Only a couple of times in three years at the independent shop.
I think this didn’t work for the new models 5.3 ?
Can it be done with manifold on?
Extract manifold studs many times a month, head stays in place always.
Cool. Red lock tight will melt,though. Curious to see how long this lasts.
Customers bringing their own parts. Pisses me off. Double labor no warranty. No paperwork.
is an exhaust manifold leak even worth worrying about? I seen people running engines on open heads all the time
Only if you live in a state that requires you to pass smog. Not sure of the long term damage if any. I'll look into it. Cheers!
Can cause O2 sensor to give false readings.
That can mess up fuel trim, fuel economy, and all sorts of other stuff.
Stay gold.
Work with a 5.7 ls1 Camaro?
Anyone know of a fix for the 5.4 3 v. With. The same issues?
We just weld on to the broken bolt, then weld a nut on and unscrew it, No Problem!
Well because it's broken off in the head and do you really want to weld anything next to aluminum and have to do a head job because you screwed up the head by welding that close?
@@JustinDowDIYcentralhighway Never had an issue damaging head, weld only sticks to bolt, not aluminum head. Just Saying.
@@statortot11 Your most likely a better welder than I. I would be scared I'd cause damage. Still this method does work and as you stated your method works as well. Cheers Friend.
You dont need to pull the head, just weld a nut to the broken stud.
Drank my steel reserve with you ha, but yeah my Passenger #8 back bolt is broke on my new chrome headers for 6 months and their aint no freaking way to fix it, and I just realized to night this thing exists. I need to try it. Thanks.
Pull the head or use one of the brackets?
Nope,break out the welder!
Wait till you get a GM 4.2 straight six...all those MF's tend to break no matter how gentle. I hear the HEMI has the same problems.
I bet SMA could of extracted that stud without removing the head.
Rob Carstuff That would be cool to see if someone was able to that’s for sure
Astral auto done it🎊
its Dorman
So instead of fixing the problem u are making it worse.... I like the idea simple enough. But will create more issues then it solves in the long run
not sure how it's making it worse. It's applies a clamping force against the manifold to the cylinder head (same concept as a fastener would) The reason why this is offered is because the only way to drill, tap & helicoil the hole is to remove the cylinder head from the engine. That costs the customer more money & of course would take more time before they can get there truck back. I haven't seen any issues as a result of using this bracket. Great comment thanks for asking.
that logo is doorman
Jus weld a nut on broken bolt easy
Why not just fix it
What are talking about lol ?? It's just a bolt to tighten up has nothing to do with the steering lol
First lol
drink real beer